We make a water container with our own hands. How to make a water container with your own hands at the dacha. How to determine the best option

Often, homeowners are unable to buy modern heating equipment, so they are looking for alternative solutions. Take, for example, a buffer tank (otherwise known as a heat accumulator), an indispensable item for heating systems with a solid fuel boiler. A storage tank with a volume of 500 liters costs approximately 600-700 USD. That is, the price of a thousand-liter barrel reaches 1000 USD. e. If you make a heat accumulator with your own hands, and then install the tank in the boiler room yourself, you will be able to save half of the specified amount. Our task is to talk about manufacturing methods.

Where is a heat accumulator used and how is it designed?

A thermal energy storage device is nothing more than an insulated iron tank with pipes for connecting water heating lines. The buffer tank performs 2 functions: it accumulates excess heat and heats the house during periods when the boiler is inactive. The heat accumulator replaces the heating unit in 2 cases:

1. When heating a home or with a boiler that burns solid fuel. The storage tank works for heating at night, after wood or coal burns out. Thanks to this, the homeowner can relax in peace, rather than running to the boiler room. It is comfortable.
2. When the heat source is an electric boiler, and electricity consumption is recorded using a multi-tariff meter. Energy at the night rate is half the price, so during the day the heating system is completely powered by the heat accumulator. It's economical.

On the left in the photo is a 400 liter buffer tank from Drazice, on the right is a Kospel electric boiler complete with a hot water storage tank

Important point. A hot water accumulator tank increases the efficiency of a solid fuel boiler. After all, the maximum efficiency of a heat generator is achieved with intense combustion, which cannot be constantly maintained without a buffer tank that absorbs excess heat. The more efficiently wood is burned, the less it is consumed. This also applies to a gas boiler, whose efficiency decreases in low combustion modes.

A storage tank filled with coolant operates according to simple principle. While the heat generator is heating the rooms, the water in the tank is heated to a maximum temperature of 80-90 ° C (the heat accumulator is charging). After the boiler is turned off, hot coolant from the storage tank begins to flow to the radiators, providing heating for the house for a certain time (the heat battery is discharged). The duration of operation depends on the volume of the tank and the outside air temperature.

How does a factory-made heat accumulator work?

The simplest factory-made storage tank for water, shown in the diagram, consists of the following elements:

• the main tank is cylindrical in shape, made of carbon or of stainless steel;
• thermal insulation layer 50-100 mm thick, depending on the insulation used;
• outer skin – thin painted metal or polymer cover;
• connecting fittings embedded into the main container;
• immersion sleeves for installing a thermometer and pressure gauge.

Note. More expensive models of heat accumulators for heating systems are additionally equipped with coils for hot water supply and heating from solar collectors. Another useful option is a block of electric heating elements built into the upper zone of the tank.

Factory production of heat storage devices

If you are seriously concerned about installing a heat accumulator and decide to make it yourself, then first you should familiarize yourself with the factory assembly technology.

Cutting blanks for the lid and bottom using a plasma machine

Repeat technological process in a home workshop is unrealistic, but some techniques will be useful to you. At the enterprise, the hot water storage tank is made in the form of a cylinder with a hemispherical bottom and a lid in the following order:

1. Sheet metal 3 mm thick is fed to a plasma cutting machine, where it is used to produce blanks for end caps, housing, hatch and stand.
2. On lathe Main fittings with a diameter of 40 or 50 mm (thread 1.5 and 2”) and immersion sleeves for control devices are manufactured. A large flange for the inspection hatch, about 20 cm in size, is also machined there. A pipe for insertion into the body is welded to the latter.
3. The body blank (the so-called shell) in the form of a sheet with holes for fittings is directed to rollers that bend it to a certain radius. To get a cylindrical container for water, all that remains is to butt weld the ends of the workpiece.
4. From metal flat circles Hydraulic Press stamps hemispherical caps.
5. Next operation – welding work. The order is as follows: first, the body is welded using tacks, then the lids are tacked to it, then all the seams are completely welded. At the end, fittings and an inspection hatch are attached.
6. The finished storage tank is welded to the stand, after which it undergoes 2 permeability tests - air and hydraulic. The latter is produced at a pressure of 8 bar, the test lasts 24 hours.
7. The tested tank is painted and insulated with basalt fiber no less than 50 mm thick. The top of the container is sheathed with thin sheet steel with a colored polymer coating or covered with a thick cover.

The storage housing is bent from a sheet of iron on rollers

Reference. To insulate the tank, manufacturers use different materials. For example, Russian-made Prometheus heat accumulators are insulated with polyurethane foam.

Instead of cladding, manufacturers often use a special cover (you can choose the color)

Most factory heat accumulators are designed for a maximum pressure of 6 Bar at a coolant temperature in the heating system of 90 °C. This value is twice the trigger threshold safety valve installed on the safety group of solid fuel and gas boilers (limit - 3 Bar). The production process is shown in detail in the video:

We make a heat battery ourselves

You have decided that you cannot do without a buffer tank and want to make it yourself. Then get ready to go through 5 stages:

1. Calculation of the volume of the heat accumulator.
2. Choosing a suitable design.
3. Selection and preparation of materials.
4. Assembly and leak testing.
5. Installation of the tank and connection to the water heating system.

Advice. Before calculating the volume of the barrel, think about how much space in the boiler room you can allocate for it (in terms of area and height). Clearly decide how long the water heat accumulator should replace the inactive boiler, and only then proceed to the first stage.

How to calculate tank volume

There are 2 ways to calculate the capacity of a storage tank:

• simplified, offered by manufacturers;
• accurate, carried out according to the formula for the heat capacity of water.

The duration of heating a house with a heat accumulator depends on its size

The essence of the enlarged calculation is simple: for each kW of boiler plant power, a volume equal to 25 liters of water is allocated in the tank. Example: if the productivity of the heat generator is 25 kW, then the minimum capacity of the heat accumulator will be 25 x 25 = 625 l or 0.625 m³. Now remember how much space is allocated in the boiler room and adjust the resulting volume to the actual size of the room.

Reference. Those who want to weld a homemade heat accumulator often wonder how to calculate the volume of a round barrel. Here it is worth recalling the formula for calculating the area of ​​a circle: S = ¼πD². Substitute the diameter of the cylindrical tank (D) into it, and multiply the resulting result by the height of the tank.

You will get more accurate measurements thermal battery, if you use the second method. After all, a simplified calculation will not show how long the calculated amount of coolant will last under the most unfavorable conditions. weather conditions. The proposed method is based on the indicators you need and is based on the formula:

m = Q / 1.163 x Δt

• Q is the amount of heat that needs to be accumulated in the battery, kWh;
• m – estimated mass of coolant in the tank, tons;
• Δt – difference in water temperatures at the beginning and end of heating;
• 1.163 W h/kg °C is the reference heat capacity of water.

Let's explain further with an example. Let's take standard house 100 m² with an average heat consumption of 10 kW, where the boiler must be idle for 10 hours a day. Then it is necessary to accumulate 10 x 10 = 100 kWh of energy in the barrel. The initial water temperature in the heating network is 20 °C, heating occurs up to 90 °C. We calculate the mass of the coolant:

m = 100 / 1.163 x (90 - 20) = 1.22 tons, which is approximately 1.25 m³.

Please note that a heat load of 10 kW is taken approximately; in an insulated building with an area of ​​100 m², heat loss will be less. Point two: so much heat is needed on the coldest days, of which there are 5 for the whole winter. That is, a heat accumulator for 1000 liters is sufficient with a large margin, and taking into account the seasonal temperature difference, you can easily keep within 750 liters.

Hence the conclusion: in the formula you need to substitute the average heat consumption for the cold period, equal to half of the maximum:

m = 50 / 1.163 x (90 - 20) = 0.61 tons or 0.65 m³.

Note. If you calculate the volume of the barrel based on the average heat consumption, in severe frosts it will not be enough for the calculated period of time (in our example - 10 hours). But you will save money and space in the furnace room. More information on making payments is presented in.

About the design of the container

To make your own heat accumulator, you will have to defeat one insidious enemy - the pressure exerted by the liquid on the walls of the vessel. Do you think why factory tanks are made cylindrical, and the bottom and lid are hemispherical? Yes, because such a container can withstand the pressure of hot water without additional reinforcement.

On the other hand, few people have the technical ability to form metal on rollers, not to mention drawing semicircular parts. We offer the following ways to resolve the issue:

1. Order a round internal tank from a metalworking enterprise, and carry out the insulation and final installation work yourself. It will still cost less than buying a factory-assembled heat accumulator.
2. Take a ready-made cylindrical tank and make a buffer tank on its base. We will tell you where to get such tanks in the next section.
3. Weld a rectangular heat accumulator from sheet iron and strengthen its walls.

Sectional drawing of a rectangular heat accumulator with a volume of 500 l

Advice. IN closed system heating with a solid fuel boiler, where excess pressure can jump to 3 bar or higher, it is strongly recommended to use a cylindrical heat accumulator.

In an open heating system with zero water pressure, you can use a rectangular tank. But don't forget about hydrostatic pressure coolant on the walls, add to it the height of the water column from the container to the expansion tank installed at the highest point. That is why the flat walls of a homemade heat accumulator should be reinforced, as shown in the drawing of a 500 liter capacity tank.

A properly reinforced rectangular storage tank can also be used in a closed heating system. But in the event of an emergency pressure surge from overheating of the TT boiler, the tank will leak with a 90% probability, although you may not notice a small crack under the insulation layer. Watch the video to see how the unstrengthened metal of the vessel bulges when filled with water:

Reference. It makes no sense to weld directly onto the walls stiffeners made of corners, channels and other rolled metal. Practice shows that the pressure force bends corners of a small section along with the wall, and tears off large ones at the edges.

Making a powerful frame from the outside is impractical, the consumption of materials is too high. A compromise option is the internal spacers shown in the drawing of a homemade heat accumulator.

Drawing of a 500 l heat accumulator - top view (cross section)

Selection of materials for the tank

You will make your task much easier if you find a ready-made cylindrical tank, initially designed for a pressure of 3–6 bar. What containers can be used:

• propane cylinders of different capacities;
• discarded process tanks, for example, receivers from industrial compressors;
• receivers from railway cars;
• old iron boilers;
• internal tanks of containers for storing liquid nitrogen, made of stainless steel.

It is much easier to make a reliable heat accumulator from ready-made steel vessels

Note. In extreme cases, a steel pipe of suitable diameter will do. Flat covers can be welded to it, which will have to be reinforced with internal braces.

To weld a square tank, take sheet metal 3 mm thick, no more is needed. Make of rigidity round pipesØ15-20 mm or profiles 20 x 20 mm. Select the size of the fittings according to the diameter of the boiler outlet pipes, and for cladding, buy thin steel (0.3-0.5 mm) with powder painting.

A separate question is how to insulate a heat accumulator that you welded yourself. The best option - basalt wool in rolls with a density of up to 60 kg/m³ and a thickness of 60-80 mm. Polymers such as polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam should not be used. The reason is mice that love warmth and in the fall can easily settle under the lining of your storage tank. Unlike polymer insulation, they do not chew basalt fiber.

Don't have any illusions about extruded polystyrene foam, rodents eat it too

Now we will indicate other options for ready-made vessels that are not recommended for use for heat accumulators:

1. An improvised tank made from a Eurocube. Similar plastic containers are designed for a maximum content temperature of 70 °C, but we need 90 °C.
2. Thermal accumulator from iron barrel. Contraindications – thin metal and flat tank covers. Instead of strengthening such a barrel, it is easier to take a good steel pipe.

Assembly of a rectangular heat accumulator

We would like to warn you right away: if you have mediocre welding skills, then it is better to order the manufacture of the tank externally according to your drawings. The quality and tightness of the seams is great value, at the slightest leak, the storage tank will leak.

First, the tank is assembled using tacks, and then welded with a continuous seam

For a good welder there will be no problems here, you just need to understand the order of operations:

1. Cut metal blanks to size and weld the body without a bottom and a lid using tacks. To secure the sheets, use clamps and a square.
2. Cut holes in the side walls for the stiffeners. Insert the prepared pipes inside and scald their ends from the outside.
3. Grab the bottom and lid to the tank. Cut holes in them and repeat the operation with the installation of internal braces.
4. When all the opposite walls of the container are securely connected to each other, begin continuous welding of all seams.
5. Install supports from pipe sections at the bottom of the tank.
6. Insert the fittings at a distance of less than 10 cm from the bottom and lid, as shown in the photo below.
7. Weld metal brackets to the walls, which will serve as brackets for fastening thermal insulation material and sheathing.

The photo shows a stretch made from a wide strip, but it is better to use a pipe

Advice on installing internal struts. To ensure that the walls of the heat accumulator effectively resist bending and do not break due to welding, extend the ends of the stretch marks outward by 50 mm. Then additionally weld stiffeners to them from steel sheet or stripes. Don’t worry about the appearance; the ends of the pipes will then be hidden under the cladding.

Steel brackets (clips) are welded to the body to secure insulation and sheathing

A few words about how to insulate a heat accumulator. First, check it for leaks by filling it with water or lubricating all the seams with kerosene. Thermal insulation is quite simple:

• clean and degrease all surfaces, apply primer and paint to protect them from corrosion;
• wrap the tank with insulation without squeezing it, and then secure it with a cord;
• cut the facing metal, make holes in it for the pipes;
• Screw the casing to the brackets with self-tapping screws.

Screw the cladding sheets so that they are connected to each other with fasteners. This completes the production of a homemade heat accumulator for an open heating system.

Installation and connection of the tank to heating

If the volume of your heat accumulator exceeds 500 liters, then it is not advisable to place it on a concrete floor; it is better to arrange a separate foundation. To do this, dismantle the screed and dig a hole to a dense layer of soil. Then fill it with broken stone (rubble), compact it and fill it with liquid clay. Fill the top reinforced concrete slab 150 mm thick in wooden formwork.

Scheme of the foundation for the battery tank

The correct operation of a heat accumulator is based on the horizontal movement of hot and cooled flow inside the tank when the battery is “charging”, and the vertical flow of water during “discharging”. To organize such battery operation, you need to perform the following steps:

• the circuit of a solid fuel or other boiler is connected to a water storage tank through a circulation pump;
• The heating system is supplied with coolant using a separate pump and mixing unit with a three-way valve that allows you to take the required amount of water from the battery;
• the pump installed in the boiler circuit should not be inferior in performance to the unit supplying coolant to the heating devices.

Tank-heat accumulator wiring diagram

The standard connection diagram for a heat accumulator with a TT boiler is shown above in the figure. The balancing valve on the return line serves to regulate the coolant flow based on the water temperature at the inlet and outlet of the tank. Our expert Vladimir Sukhorukov will tell you how to properly strap and set up in his video:

Reference. If you live in the capital of the Russian Federation or the Moscow region, then regarding the connection of any heat accumulators, you can consult personally with Vladimir, using the contact information on his official website.

Budget storage tank made from cylinders

For those homeowners whose boiler room area is very limited, we suggest making a cylindrical heat accumulator from propane cylinders.

Homemade heat storage device paired with a TT boiler

The 100 l design, developed by another of our masters, is designed to perform 3 functions:

• unload the solid fuel boiler when overheating, taking in excess heat;
• heat water for household needs;
• provide heating of the house for 1-2 hours in case of extinguishing of the TT boiler.

Note. Duration battery life heat accumulator is small due to its small volume. But it will fit in any furnace room and will be able to remove heat from the boiler after a power outage, since it is connected directly, without a pump.

This is what a tank made of cylinders looks like without lining

To assemble the storage tank you will need:

• 2 standard propane cylinders;
• at least 10 m of copper tube Ø12 mm or stainless corrugation of the same diameter;
• fittings and sleeves for thermometers;
• insulation – basalt wool;
• painted metal for cladding.

You need to unscrew the valves from the cylinders and cut off the caps with a grinder, filling them with water to prevent the remaining gas from exploding. We carefully bend the copper tube into a coil around another pipe of a suitable diameter. Then we proceed like this:

1. Using the presented drawing, drill holes in the future heat accumulator for pipes and sleeves for thermometers.
2. Secure by welding several metal brackets inside the cylinders for mounting the DHW heat exchanger.
3. Place the cylinders one on top of the other and weld them together.
4. Install a coil inside the resulting tank, releasing the ends of the tube through the holes. Use gland packing to seal these areas.
5. Attach the bottom and lid.
6. Insert an air vent into the lid and a drain valve into the bottom.
7. Weld the brackets to secure the casing. Make them different lengths to ready product had a rectangular shape. It will be inconvenient to bend the cladding in a semicircle, and it will not be aesthetically pleasing.
8. Insulate the tank and fasten the casing with self-tapping screws.

Connecting a tank to a TT boiler without a circulation pump

The design feature of this heat accumulator is that it is connected to a solid fuel boiler directly, without a circulation pump. Therefore, for joining, steel pipes Ø50 mm are used, laid with a slope, the coolant circulates by gravity. To supply water to the heating radiators, a pump + three-way mixing valve is installed after the buffer tank.

Conclusion

On many Internet resources there is a statement that making a heat accumulator with your own hands is a piece of cake. If you study our material, you will understand that such statements are far from reality; in fact, the issue is quite complex and serious. You can’t just take a barrel and attach it to a solid fuel boiler. Hence the advice: think carefully about all the nuances before starting work. And without a welder’s qualifications, it’s not worth taking on a buffer tank; it’s better to order it from a specialized workshop.

One of the most unpleasant everyday problems is the lack of water in the tap. It is easy to survive the lack of light or gas, but water is an essential component of human life, and when it is absent or in short supply, problems begin. You can always keep several containers of water in your house, for example plastic bottles, but it is much more practical to determine what storage tank is needed for water supply and the system diagram for a private home, so as not to lose comfort and continue to use household appliances and the sink and bathtub, as if nothing had happened.

Why is it needed and how to use it

If for some reason the pump in the system does not work autonomous water supply, or there is no pressure in the centralized city water supply, then you can supply it to the sink or toilet tank from a pre-filled reserve container. Simply put, it is better to always have a supply of drinking water in the house and use it in emergency situations.

For ease of use of reserve water supply storage capacity it must be integrated into the water supply so that it is either automatically used in the absence of external pressure, or it can be activated by simply turning the valve.

There are many variations on how to install and connect a storage tank, depending on the type of water source, the possible location of the tank and even the layout of the house. Just choose suitable option and decide on the type of storage tank itself.

Types

The storage tank can be a container with sufficient internal volume, made of a material that is resistant to corrosion and safe for storing drinking water. The following materials are used:

• polyvinyl chloride;
• cross-linked high or low pressure polyethylene;
• polypropylene;
• stainless steel;
• steel coated with waterproof varnishes and ceramic coatings.

Plastic tanks

Although galvanized steel is corrosion-resistant and waterproof, over time the protective layer of zinc can wear thin, especially at joints and welds.

By design there are:

• open containers that have a neck with or without a lid, but with sealed walls and bottom;
• closed, completely sealed membrane-type containers.

In the first case, everything is simple: the entire internal volume is filled with water and, if necessary, drained through a pipe fixed at the lowest point.

In the case of membrane storage tanks, the useful volume is at least a third less than the volume of the entire structure. Part of the volume is allocated under the air chamber, separated from the water using a durable elastic membrane. As the container fills with water, the membrane presses on the air chamber, creating excess pressure. When it is necessary to get water back, the valve opens and it enters the water supply system under the influence of accumulated pressure.

With bottom or top position

There are three options for connecting a storage tank and using the water supply:

• Top location of the container. In this case, water is drawn under the influence of gravity. The higher the accumulator is located in relation to the consumer, the stronger the water pressure. Every 10 meters of height adds 0.1 atmosphere, or approximately 1 bar.
• Bottom location of a simple storage tank. Gravity will no longer help, and a pump is used to supply it to the water supply system, raising the pressure to the optimal level.
• Membrane-type storage tanks themselves create the required pressure for water supply. A lower location at the consumer level is optimal for them, since there will be no advantage from installing in an attic or tower.

How to determine best option?

If the house has several floors and it is possible to place a storage tank in the attic, then this will allow you to do without additional installation of a pump, and you do not need to spend money on an expensive membrane tank. In fact, this is an analogue of a water tower. However, raise the container so high as to ensure a comfortable pressure of 2-2.5 atm. it's still difficult. Moreover, the question arises about insulating the tank so that winter period the water in it did not freeze.

In the event of an emergency shutdown of water, the existing pressure is 0.2-0.3 atm. will be quite enough to use the faucet in the sink, toilet or even shower, but you will not be able to use part household appliances, such as a washing machine or dishwasher, which require more pressure to operate the solenoid valves.

Installing the tank at the same level as the consumer is suitable in cases where it is not possible to raise the tank to the attic or at least to a higher floor. The same applies to installing a storage tank in an apartment. You will need a small pump to supply water under pressure to the water supply. To ensure adequate operation, the pump will require a diaphragm expansion tank.

A storage tank with a membrane is perfect for storing water reserves both when using a centralized water supply system and in autonomous system. Moreover, it does not require additional equipment or top position. However, its cost is significantly higher than any conventional storage tank, even in combination with a simple pump.

Volume of the tank

In case of problems on the city water line and the water is turned off, it is usually renovation work completed in a day or two. However, accidents also happen on holidays, and in places where quick repairs are simply impossible, then you will have to wait much longer. The optimal supply of water for 2-3 days will be for using the toilet, maintaining personal hygiene and cooking.

For a family of three people, 100 liters per day is enough when using water in economy mode. One wash requires approximately 80 liters of water, more precisely you can find out in the passport for washing machine. Same for the dishwasher.

It turns out that for 2-3 days when using household appliances, you need to look for a storage container with a volume of at least 500 liters, half a cubic meter.

However, there are a number of restrictions:

• The larger the volume of water and storage tank open type, the faster it will begin to become overgrown with sediment. It is not recommended to use containers larger than 200-250 liters in everyday life for long-term storage of water.
• It is necessary to take into account the safety factor of the floor and load-bearing walls. The installation of the tank must be planned at the design stage of the house.
• When using an autonomous water supply, the volume of the storage tank, especially the membrane type, should not exceed the flow rate of the well. If this rule cannot be observed, then the pump must be protected from idle running.

Membrane-type storage tanks are limited in their volume and are not able to release the entire supply of stored liquid. To form a reserve of over 300 liters, you will have to connect several tanks of smaller capacity in parallel to each other.

General connection rules

A water tank is installed on the prepared site: concrete base, tied to the foundation, or a reinforced metal frame made of profiled pipe. The design must withstand one and a half weight of the tank and the water in it when completely filled.

The inlet pipe can be of any suitable diameter, water is supplied under pressure. The outlet pipe and pipe to the water supply system are chosen with a diameter one and a half to two times larger than the cross-section of the main line. The optimal size is 32 mm.

Even the best quality insulation only slows down the decrease in temperature in the tank. To prevent water from freezing when installing the tank in an unheated attic or on the roof, you should use any suitable heating system for the pipes and the tank itself.

With centralized water supply

Any type of storage tank connection requires check valve at the entrance to a house or apartment. It is the valve that will prevent the stored water from flowing back into the pipeline and not to the consumer.

Top connection

The tank is installed under the ceiling of the first floor, on the floor above the bathroom and kitchen, or in the attic. The tank should have a fitting at the top for water supply, another one slightly higher for discharge into the sewer when overflowing, and a fitting at the very bottom for water intake.

After installing the coarse filter of the shut-off valve, meter and check valve, a tee is installed from which the pipe goes to the inlet pipe of the tank; a shut-off valve or controlled valve is installed in front of the fitting.

A shut-off valve is connected to the outlet fitting and the pipe is lowered back to the water supply, to which it is connected via a tee.

A hose for discharging excess is lowered into the sewer or taken outside the house into the front garden or drainage system.

To control the filling, a mechanical valve with a float is used, similar to those used in a toilet cistern.

To use the stored water, just open the outlet valve.

Bottom connection

The connection is made identical to the first option. However, it is necessary to install a pump at the outlet to create additional pressure in the water supply. Before each use of water, you will have to turn on the pump first.

A ready-made pumping station or adding a diaphragm-type expansion tank and pressure switch to the pump will help make life easier.

Bottom connection of storage tank with membrane

To connect the tank, only one pipe is used, connected to the water supply through a tee with a valve. The insertion is also carried out after the filter, meter and check valve.

Before use, the pressure must be adjusted air chamber. This must be done strictly in accordance with the instructions for the selected model. Preliminarily studied normal pressure in the water supply, taking into account fluctuations during the day. As a result, the average value is taken, which is used to adjust the tank. This is the only way to use the maximum usable volume of the tank.

For autonomous water supply

As is the case with centralized water supply There are several connection options.

Water tower

The storage tank is installed at a level of 15-20 meters above ground level on a reinforced tower or attic. Water from well pump or a pumping station is supplied directly to the tank, and from it it is distributed to the bathroom and kitchen in the house. The pressure in the system is provided by the height difference between the water level in the tank and the mixer tap in the house.

The disadvantage is the constant flow of water through the tank, which will cause sediment to accumulate over time, even if you first install a filter system.

The advantage is simplicity of design and a minimum of expensive elements, with the exception of the tower design itself and mandatory insulation tank to protect it from freezing even when placed in the attic.

Bottom connection of storage tank

The tank is installed level with the pumping station or on the first floor of the house. It is filled during normal operation of the pump using water from the well. The limiter is a float switch.

This option saves you in case of excessive water consumption and a decrease in the water level in a well or well. However, it is useless when the electricity is turned off, since a pump is required to supply the end user with water from the reserve.

Membrane storage tank

A membrane tank for storing water reserves is installed after the pumping station and check valve, with bottom connection. If the pumping station for some reason does not work and does not maintain pressure in the system, then water comes from the storage tank.

For normal height plants need water. No water - no harvest and vice versa. In different garden societies, the issue of water supply is solved differently. In some places water is supplied to garden plots constantly, in others periodically, and in others it is not supplied at all. In the last two cases, it is important to have a supply of water for irrigation in the garden plot.

This stock can be created in different ways.

Place the barrel on a stand so that water flows out of it by gravity.

Disadvantage: small amount of water reserve and the need to make a durable stand.

Of course, you can install a barrel of larger volume, for example 500 or more liters.

But even a thousand liters for garden plot it may not be enough. It will also require a more durable stand. If the area is large, then you will need a container of decent volume, which also costs a decent amount. For example, a container with a volume of 5000 liters costs more than fifty thousand rubles.

You can save significantly on capacity if you build a pond. To do this, dig a hole of the required volume, which is lined with plastic film.

The pit is filled with water, which is supplied for irrigation using a pump. Disadvantage: the construction of a reservoir is highly labor-intensive, because you need to dig a hole. In addition, if you no longer need a reservoir in this place, then you will have to dig a hole.

The irrigation system is simplified if you use a pumping station.

In this case, the container can be placed at soil level, and the water will be in the pipeline of your garden plot all the time under pressure.

The pumping station consists of a pump, a hydraulic accumulator, a pressure sensor, a dry-running sensor and a pressure gauge.

The station is connected to the container with a pipe (hose) with the obligatory use of a check valve. The second output of the station is connected to the water supply system of the garden plot and house. The station operates on 220 V electricity. When it is turned on, the pump pumps water into the water supply system to a certain pressure, usually 3 bar.

When this pressure is reached, the sensor is triggered and the pump is turned off. In a plumbing system, water is under this pressure. The release of pressure into the container (reservoir) is prevented by a non-return valve.

When any tap in the system opens, water flows out and the water pressure drops. The pressure sensor is triggered and the pump is turned on. Water will flow into open taps.

When the tap is closed, the pressure in the system increases, the sensor is triggered and turns off the pump. The water in the system is under pressure.

The hydraulic accumulator contains a small supply of water (3-7 l), which can be used in the absence of electricity. A dry-running sensor will prevent the pump from operating when there is no water.

You can, of course, use only a pump instead of a pumping station. But you will have to constantly turn it on when you need water. When using a pumping station, there will be constant water in the pipes and the pump will turn on automatically.

If the fence water is coming from a reservoir or swimming pool, then for this it is better to purchase a special connection kit.

It consists of a corrugated hose with a connector for connecting to the pumping station, a check valve and a filter mesh. Connect one end of the hose to the pumping station, dip the other into the pond and you can turn on the system.

Now about the water container. Let's say you need to have a large supply of water (2-6,000 liters), you don't want to dig a hole or buy a plastic container. In this case, you can make a container for water large sizes on your own. This will take you several hours.

The essence of such a container is that you make a box, cover it with film and pour water into it.

Here is an example of a 7000 liter capacity device.

We leveled a section of soil measuring 3x3 meters. Three beams were used as a base; they were placed on bricks waterproofed with polyethylene film.

Five 50 mm thick boards were placed on the beams and fastened with self-tapping screws.

Two sheets of OSB - oriented strand board - were placed on them.

The dimensions of each slab are 1.25 x 2.5 meters. Two slabs were used on the base, therefore the area of ​​the container was 2.5x2.5 = 6.25 m2. They were attached to the boards with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

Along the perimeter of the base, on each side, one sheet of OSB was installed per edge - these are the walls of the container.

Boards were installed at the corners and base. They also strengthened the frame on top.

The main thing in this design is to make a strong frame, because 7000 liters of water weigh 7 tons.

The result was a frame box with a smooth inner surface of OSB.

The inside needs to be covered with white needle-punched geotextile or padding polyester.

This is necessary to prevent damage to the film by wood chips or screw heads.

They are attached with a construction stapler to the boards of the upper part of the frame.

Do not use a stapler inside the box, otherwise the staples may damage the film!

We straighten the film, but do not secure it, and begin to pour water.

Under the weight of water, the film stretches,

After this, you can attach it to the top of the frame with a construction stapler.

If the frame is not strong enough, its walls can be further strengthened using inclined boards.

Then we install the pumping station and dip the hose into the water. We connect the pumping station to electricity, the water is flowing!

If necessary, such a container can be easily disassembled and disposed of, or assembled in another place.

The costs of setting up such a reservoir: the boards were available, six sheets of OSB cost 3,500 rubles, the film cost 600 rubles. Thus, a tank with a volume of 7 m3 was built in a few hours and for 4,100 rubles.

If necessary, you can make a larger container in the same way. To do this, OSB sheets are added and the frame is made larger by a length that is a multiple of the sheet dimensions.

For example, by adding just four sheets of OSB (two on the base and one on each side), you will get a capacity of 15.625 m3, that is, twice as large.

Important addition. Nowadays, drip irrigation is becoming very popular among gardeners. Gardeners place a 200 liter barrel on a stand, connect drip irrigation to it and enjoy automatic watering of their beds. But not for long, because two hundred liters of water are dug up very quickly.

A homemade frame large-volume water tank in combination with a pumping station will provide you with uninterrupted automatic drip watering of all plants throughout the summer.

Dmitry Ivantsov

Novosibirsk center natural farming"Shine"

Water container at the dacha - photo ideas

Let's not deny that Water storage containers are needed at any summer cottage. During the first year of owning a summer cottage, my husband and I suffered greatly from the fact that we had to constantly carry water in buckets from a water tower located 500 meters away from us. After some time, we had a suitable container for water at the dacha - a 250 liter blue plastic barrel.

Water storage tank at the dacha

Yes, this has greatly simplified and improved my life at the dacha - the water tank is used up in three days, and we have water in the tap just every three days. So, fresh water is replenished regularly. Now we already have a well, so the container acts as a reservoir where water is heated for irrigation.

Such a container is especially relevant if there is no running water at the dacha. In this case, you can think about a rainwater storage tank; at least you will have process water for irrigation. And you can collect precipitation in just such containers.

Ideas for containers for storing water in a summer cottage

The most common water containers are 100 l, 250 l, 500 l, 1000 l, 5000 l. A very convenient plastic container - Eurocube, reinforced with a metal frame. Calculate your own water consumption for each family member and purchase a slightly larger water container, so to speak, in reserve.

Plastic tanks for storing water in the country

Volumes of water containers

If your consumption, like ours, is small, then you can purchase water containers for your dacha in 100 l, 200 l, 1000 l. If the volumes are not enough, then you can combine several small containers into a single whole, thereby obtaining a significant increase in the total cubic capacity.

If your family and consumption are large, then immediately take water containers of 2000 l, 3000 l or 5000 l. Of course, you need to understand that large-volume containers are very expensive.

A container for storing water in a summer cottage

So, decide for yourself what size container you need to store water in your dacha?

Shapes of water containers

The most versatile are rectangular water containers. They can be easily placed in a corner, connected together, or stacked one on top of the other. the same applies to rectangular containers - there is a wide variety of them on the market.

Such containers are often used to accumulate and store drinking water, or industrial water for irrigation and showering.

Large container for collecting rainwater in the countryside

Round water containers are also very popular - a similar tank for a summer house can be installed on a pedestal and get natural water pressure in your summer water supply. Both cubic water tanks and rectangular-shaped tanks can also be raised onto a podium - a tower and receive a slight pressure in the water supply system.

Containers for drinking water - what materials are suitable

When we were choosing what material our water container for the dacha would be made of, we studied reviews and opinions on the forums. In the end, we settled on plastic, simply placing the barrel in the shade where the sun did not reach.

Large capacity for storing technical water in the country

Stainless steel water container

A very expensive container that meets all standards for food containers. Most often they are made in the form of barrels and tanks. Stainless steel is used specifically for drinking water; there is no point in keeping technical water in such an expensive container.

Stainless steel water container

Plastic water containers

Practical and inexpensive plastic water containers. They are easy to install, the container itself is quite light, without water, so install it on permanent place one adult can do it. You can store both drinking and process water, they come in completely different shapes, you can easily find one to suit your needs.

Plastic water containers

I believe that plastic water containers are the most convenient and practical for a summer cottage.

Metal containers for water

Most often, such containers are made from sheets of iron that are susceptible to corrosion, so such containers require treatment with a protective coating. This is precisely what allows such products to be cheap. At dachas, welded metal cubes are often found for storing water for irrigation.

Metal container for storing water in the country

Purpose of water storage tanks

Based on their purpose, containers are divided into several categories. Next, we will consider each option in more detail.

Water storage capacity

There may be several such reservoirs on the site; for example, we have a separate container for irrigation, a container for drinking, a barrel for collecting water from a well. Drinking water, as I already said, it is stored in a barrel placed in the shade, where the sun does not reach. To water the container in the opposite direction in the sun.

Rainwater container

A container for storing and collecting rainwater at the dacha

In areas with a lot of rain, it is advisable to install containers for collecting and storing rainwater. Through gutters from the roof, rainwater is collected in tanks and later used for irrigation or some technical purposes. It rarely rains here and it makes no sense to install such a system.

Storage capacity

Storage tanks for water at the dacha - photo ideas

Such containers can be placed in front of greenhouses, as my aunt does. As water is consumed, it is added to such reservoirs. The material can be any, my aunt’s are simple metal barrels from under the engine oil. Very convenient and budget-friendly - we got it for free from the mechanics at the company where she works.

Tanks for storing water at the dacha for 3 cubic meters

Installing a container at the dacha

So, to store water you can use absolutely various products When purchasing containers for collecting water and storing it, think about how it will be installed. If you are alone and there is no one to help you, then I recommend plastic.

Most often, either above-ground tanks or underground water tanks are installed, as well as, as I already said, towers raised on platforms.

Idea for storing water from plastic barrels

What you need to buy and install a water tank

In most cases, the container is self-sufficient, and it already has a tap and a lid for filling water. Instead of a tap, you can install pipes to supply water through the plumbing system directly to the house or for irrigation. You can connect a pump and compressor to obtain pressure in the system.

Water container for a summer residence - ideas

You can install a container on a tower and get water to drain independently under low pressure. Some people have water storage containers in heated attics, which allows them to use water in their dachas even during the off-season.

Large capacity for storing water in the country and in a country house

In my selection I tried to choose interesting photos ideas for your inspiration. See what options are available and choose for your future.

Eurocube - a container for water in the country

By purchasing, installing and filling a water container, you will provide yourself and your plants with liquid. You shouldn’t rely on water supply on schedule; having made a reserve, you can not rush to the dacha before watering hours, but arrive without traffic jams convenient time. Inspiration and creative success to you!

Installing a water tank in a bathhouse opens up a number of conveniences and advantages for the owner. Firstly, it becomes possible to prepare hot water while firing the furnace, which allows you to save energy resources and use them as efficiently as possible. Secondly, the use of such a unit in most cases makes it possible to refuse to install an electric water heater, which also benefits the budget allocated for the arrangement of the bathhouse.

There are several basic requirements for water tanks: they must be spacious, durable, warm up in the shortest possible time and retain heat for as long as the needs of steam room visitors dictate. Among the options available to the average user, products made of stainless steel best meet the listed criteria.

Diagram - example of installing a remote water tank

The modern market offers a wide range of water tanks made of cast iron, stainless steel and enameled material. As practice shows, stainless steel is the most popular among bathhouse owners, which is due to the competent and acceptable ratio of performance and technical characteristics and cost indicators.

Stainless steel is characterized by excellent thermal conductivity, withstands temperature changes and objectively lasts longer than various ferrous metals.

A logical question arises here: which of the existing brands of stainless steel is better suited for the manufacture of the container in question, intended for use in a bathhouse? Firstly, this is brand 08Х17 (430), secondly, 8-12Х18Н10 (304). The mentioned materials, among other things, are used for the production of tableware and are characterized by high resistance to high temperatures, are completely hygienic, do not rust or deform during use. In addition, such materials are unpretentious and extremely easy to maintain.

To summarize the above, we can highlight 3 main advantages of water tanks made of stainless steel:

• products do not require additional protection from high humidity air and can easily withstand operation in conditions typical for a steam room;
• stainless steel has high thermal conductivity, which makes it possible to obtain hot water as soon as possible;
• Stainless steel tanks do not deform due to sudden temperature changes, or these deformations are insignificant.

Prices for stainless steel sheets

stainless steel sheets

Design options for water tanks for baths

Water tanks designed for use in a bathhouse may have different design. There are 3 main options: a built-in tank, a remote container and a unit installed on a pipe. You can see the features of each type of design in the following table.

Table. Stainless steel water tank designs

Construction type	Description
	Installation of representatives of this category is carried out during the construction process sauna stove, as a result of which the stove and tank become a single structure. Heating of water in a built-in stainless steel tank is carried out by the forces of fire, due to which the efficiency of the water tank itself is kept at a fairly impressive level. The key disadvantage of this design is the fact that a significant part of the heat is spent on heating the water in the tank, as a result of which the heat transfer directly from the sauna stove noticeably drops. Helpful note! Much easier to manufacture and use is a mounted/mounted tank installed on top of the heater.
	A more convenient and practical option compared to the previous model, especially if the tank is designed and installed for permanent use. If desired, a ready-made stainless steel water tank can be installed in the washing room of the bathhouse, connecting it with a pipe system to a furnace heat exchanger. The optimal material for making pipes is copper or brass. The only significant drawback of an external water tank is the likelihood of getting burned in case of careless handling - this situation is especially important if children go to the bathhouse.
	A pipe water tank can be installed either directly above a sauna stove or in the attic space. In such designs, water is heated in the shortest possible time. At the same time, the heat transfer rates of the furnace unit do not decrease. The undoubted advantage of installing a water tank in attic is the opportunity to “unload” the steam room by eliminating the container from its setting and providing more free space.

One more is not included in the table possible variant tank installation - on the side of the stove.

Stove with a side tank - photo

This method has been neglected for the simple reason that it is the worst. The water in such a tank will boil very quickly. If the steaming process drags on, the constantly boiling water will make the atmosphere in the steam room simply unbearable. Yes, and servicing such a tank is a complete inconvenience: in order to save space, the container is made high, but very narrow.

Having understood the features of stainless steel water tanks and choosing the most appropriate design option, all that remains is to determine the optimal volume of the container, after which you can proceed directly to the stage of its manufacture.

When choosing the required volume of a stainless steel water tank, you must, first of all, focus on the planned number of visitors who will simultaneously go to the bathhouse. For example, if the steam room, due to its physical dimensions, is not capable of accommodating more than 2-3 people, you can safely install a tank of 50-80 liters, at the rate of 25-30 liters of water for each bathhouse attendant.

There are tanks different sizes– choose the appropriate one

Using the above recommendation, you can calculate the required volume of the water tank, taking into account the traffic of the bathhouse being equipped. For greater convenience, it is recommended to add at least 10-20 liters on top of the calculated value - each person’s needs and ideas about comfortable washing are different.

Making a stainless steel water tank with your own hands

Most factory models of water tanks are made of stainless steel 1 mm thick. For self-made It is recommended to use thicker sheets - about 1.2-1.8 mm (the specific indicator is selected in accordance with the volume of the container). The cost of manufacturing the structure in this case will be higher, but for many years you will not have to think about the need for repairs, painting, coating with various special compounds and other similar tank maintenance.

As an example, you can use the following drawing - this is the simplest for self-assembly and one of the most popular design options.

You can change the dimensions proportionally in accordance with the required volume of the container. The volume is calculated using the standard formula, i.e. indicators of the length, width and height of the product are sequentially multiplied. For example, the volume of the container presented as an example will be about 25 liters.

Helpful advice! An even simpler version of a water tank is a product made from a piece of seamless stainless pipe. By choosing this solution, you get a number of advantages. Firstly, you don’t have to waste time and effort on cutting sheet metal, calculating allowances, reserves and other points, i.e. the likelihood of errors is reduced to a minimum. Secondly, making a water tank from a pipe requires the use of welding in a minimal amount.

Stainless steel pipes with a diameter of up to 1020 mm and even more are available for sale, which allows you to purchase a product for making a container of the required volume without any problems. To determine the volume of the cylinder (namely, this is the final shape the storage tank will have), use the following formula.

Helpful note! If you wish, no one will forbid you to make a tank from a profiled stainless pipe, and then the container will have a rectangular shape.

The further procedure for making a water tank yourself will be discussed using the example of using a piece of pipe as a workpiece.

Pipe - blank

Important! If you plan to install a pipe water tank, it is better to use a shorter but wider blank for its manufacture so that the smoke exhaust pipe can be passed through the internal cavity of the tank. It will look something like this.

The procedure for making a water tank from a pipe is presented in the following table.

Table. Making a water tank for a bath

Work stage	Description
	Previously, a formula was given to calculate the volume of a cylinder. With its help we find the required height of the water tank. For example, we want to get a tank with a volume of 30 liters and use a pipe with a diameter of 1020 mm to make it. Using simple arithmetic manipulations at the 5th grade level, we transform the formula into the following form: H=30/(3.14*0.512)=37 cm - this is exactly the length the pipe section should have to obtain a water tank of the specified volume. To cut a piece of pipe, we use a grinder. For working with stainless steel, discs with a thickness of 1 mm and a diameter of 11.5 or 12.5 cm are suitable.
	In order for the finished water tank to look beautiful, you need to properly treat the cut areas. In the future, similar actions will be performed when boring holes for connecting pipes with taps. The most convenient tool that allows you to quickly and efficiently solve the problems mentioned above is a hand drill. Such devices are equipped with a wide variety of abrasive attachments, which allow achieving maximum quality of processing of a particular material. In the absence of a hand drill, the seams will have to be tidied up using improvised means: a file, sandpaper etc., which is definitely a longer and more labor-intensive undertaking.
	At this stage we will need a sheet of stainless steel. It is recommended to make the lid and especially the bottom from a material that has a more impressive thickness compared to the walls of the pipe chosen for the manufacture of the body. The work is carried out in several stages: - a circle is drawn on a stainless steel sheet according to the diameter of the holes that it will cover. You can simply place the pipe on a sheet of metal and draw a circle, tracing the contour of the product; - 2 blanks are cut out in accordance with the markings. For cutting and subsequent grinding of the edges, you can use the previously mentioned grinder and hand drill. If a pipe-based method of installing a water tank is intended, at the same stage, holes can be prepared in the bottom and lid according to the diameter of the chimney pipe (preferably 1 mm larger so that the chimney can pass through them; in the future, the gap will be leveled by welding). Also at this stage, you can prepare holes for further connection of pipes with taps, if they are mounted in the bottom (relevant for remote structures installed away from the furnace; in the case of over-fire/built-in and pipe-mounted tanks, it is more advisable to embed the pipes into the wall of the tank body). The nuances of drilling and welding stainless steel will be discussed in more detail in the relevant sections of the instructions.
	The photo shows a profiled pipe, but the welding process for this case and working with a round workpiece remains the same. Products made from the material in question can be connected in different ways: - by soldering using lead-free or high-temperature solders; - manual or automatic welding (in the case of stainless steel, work is carried out exclusively in a protective gas environment). The most preferable is the second option, the easiest to learn - manual arc welding. Argon is used as a shielding gas. Welding is carried out using a non-consumable electrode for working with stainless steel. In the international classification, devices intended for such welding are marked with the abbreviation TIG. When buying or renting a welding machine, do not forget to purchase/rent an argon cylinder and a reducer. The function of the latter is to reduce the pressure of the shielding gas at the outlet. The seams should be as neat and uniform as possible. It is recommended to clean them after completion. Recommendations regarding a suitable tool for this purpose have been provided previously. Helpful advice! If desired, the tank cover can not be welded, but attached using bolts and lugs, or simply made removable. This option is relevant for cases when water will be added manually by the user, and not supplied through the water supply. The container is ready. We begin to prepare the holes for further insertion of pipes.
	The structures under consideration are equipped with two pipes with taps. Cold water is traditionally supplied to the container through the upper pipe, and the heated liquid goes to the consumer through the lower pipe. The diameters of the plumbing pipes correspond to the diameters of the water pipes used in conjunction with them. The most commonly used pipes are ½ or 1 inch in diameter. An ordinary electric drill is suitable for drilling stainless steel. The main thing is that the work is performed at low speeds - no more than 100 rpm. In a drill with an electronic regulator, setting the required mode is not a problem. If there is no such regulator, you simply need to activate the start button with short presses - within a second the tool will not have time to accelerate to operating power. The holes are best made with a P18 drill. An even more convenient option is a special step drill (shown in the image). This tool does not lift up the edges of the hole, so it gets a perfectly round shape. Along with this, for drilling holes with a diameter of more than 14 mm it is more convenient to use special nozzles- so-called "crowns".
	The presented diameters of such crowns correspond to both inch and metric gradations of plumbing pipes. Using appropriate drill bits, you can also prepare holes in the bottom and lid of the tank if it is intended to be installed in pipes.
	Nozzles with taps to shut off the flow of water are available for sale. In combination with a stainless steel tank, it is preferable to use components made of the same material. In order not to waste extra time on arranging the threads, the pipes are simply welded to the previously prepared holes. Recommendations regarding tools and welding modes remain the same. After installing the water tank in accordance with the selected scheme (will be discussed later), water pipes (previously noted that it is best to use products made of copper or brass) of a suitable diameter are connected to the nozzles. The connection of the pipe to the pipe is made in any suitable way, for example, using a threaded adapter.

So, the water tank is ready, and even the pipes for inserting pipes have already been installed. All that remains is to connect the finished device for its subsequent intended use.

The procedure for connecting a stainless steel water tank

Important notes before you begin

It was previously noted that the most common options for mounting the tank are: inside the stove, away from it and on the chimney pipe. We propose to replace the first option with a method in which the tank is installed above the stove. This method easier to implement, at the same time, you can resort to using it even if the stove has already been built - what if at first you thought that you would not need such a heater, but after studying the material presented, you understood all the advantages of using it and wanted to install it in your bathhouse.

Important! The mentioned replacement will be possible only in the case of a collapsible chimney. The proposed method involves the combined installation of a tank - it will be simultaneously placed above the stones and around the chimney pipe, which will make the efficiency of heating water as high as possible. Otherwise, you will either have to give preference to the built-in tank model (if the stove is just being built), or install the unit at a distance from the stove.

If the stove is brick, preparing the space for the tank and its direct installation are carried out during the laying process (the specific stage depends on the chosen stove design and the size of the firebox, most often it is row 10). When laying a row, an opening is left to accommodate the tank. The size of the opening should be several millimeters larger than the dimensions of the structure being installed to compensate for thermal expansion.

The diagram shows an opening for installing a tank

Note! Pipes are laid in the spaces between the marked quarters of the brick, the presence of which will help increase the heating efficiency - these are design features For this particular furnace unit, these pipes may not be available in the project you have chosen.

The stove with the tank installed looks like this.

A plumbing tap is embedded into the wall of the tank from below. It is assumed that the user will draw hot water directly from the steam room. If desired, the design can be improved by cutting in the previously mentioned pipe instead of the tap and connecting to it water pipe and taking her to the washroom.

When the masonry is brought to the upper edge of the tank, 2 metal strips are laid on it, the presence of which will allow you to safely cover the storage tank with bricks.

In the case of metal sauna stoves, the water tank is welded above the firebox (recommendations regarding welding were given earlier). As a result, the container is heated by flame forces, which ensures the fastest possible preparation of water. The design looks something like this.

Important! If preference is given to a built-in tank design, for its manufacture you should use metal with a thickness of more than 1 mm and, at the same time, ensure that the quality of the welds is as high as possible. Otherwise, the tank will either quickly burn out or leak through poor-quality seams.

Helpful advice! In case of brick oven you can take a simpler route by placing the water tank on the stove body above the firebox. The design looks something like this.

Installing a water tank above the heater

This method, as noted, involves combining options for installing the tank above the heater and on the chimney. The distance between the heater and the bottom of the tank is usually maintained in the range of 20-35 cm, with the possibility of changing in both directions: the smaller this indicator, the faster the water will heat up, but the tank will last less, and vice versa.

Provide detailed step by step instructions makes no sense - everyone necessary knowledge you already own. Previously, we described how to prepare holes in the bottom and lid of the tank for passing a smoke exhaust pipe through them. Do it.

Next, you need to pass the smoke exhaust system element through the internal cavity of the tank and connect the pipe to the tank at the inlet and outlet points (in the bottom and lid) by welding. You also know how to do this.

Stainless steel water tanks are relatively lightweight (for example, cast iron is much heavier and a tank made of it would require fixing to the ceiling using chains or other suitable means) and do not require additional fastening. Further installation of the chimney is carried out according to standard scheme, depending on the selected type of structure.

Ideally, the finished system will look like this:

In the example image, the pipes and taps are not visible. The next design is not so beautiful in appearance, but the connection of the water outlet is clearly demonstrated here.

Regarding the submission cold water, it can be organized in several ways, depending on the characteristics of a particular situation:

• The tank is filled manually;
• water is supplied from a well/well;
• water is supplied from centralized system water supply

We will not consider each of the listed options in detail, because... These are topics for separate lengthy instructions.

Installing a remote water tank

The setup of such a system is also not overly complicated. The only thing is that the circuit is supplemented with a new device - a heat exchanger. It can be built-in or external. For self-production, it is better to choose the second option - it is more convenient and easier to implement.

A diagram of a system with a remote water tank is shown in the following image.

Here we see that the external heat exchanger is installed on the chimney pipe. The water in the heat exchanger is heated by the heat of the flue gases transferred through the walls of the pipe. If there is an open heater under the heat exchanger, additional heating will be carried out by the heat of the hot stones.

Heated in the heat exchanger, the water goes into the external tank, from there, cooling, back into the heat exchanger. Water circulation will be ensured through the created slopes and pressure differences in the container with hot and cooled liquid.

Remote hot water tank 60 l

You can make a heat exchanger yourself. In essence, this is the same water tank, the manufacturing instructions for which you have already studied, only of a smaller volume (usually up to 5 liters). The heat exchanger is installed in the same way as the tank in the previous instructions (on the chimney pipe).

Register – heat exchanger for sauna stoves

Prices for heat exchangers

heat exchanger

You already know how to make the necessary holes, install pipes, taps and pipes. Where to do this - see the diagram. All that remains is to prepare all the required elements and assemble them into a single system, maintaining the necessary distances and slopes in accordance with the above diagram.

IN in this example A remote water tank is installed in the washing room and is equipped with a standard plumbing tap for draining water. The pipes, like the mentioned tap, are embedded in the bottom of the container. Holes for laying pipes through the partition can be made using suitable tool, for example, a hammer drill.

In accordance with the current provisions of current standards, cold and hot water supply pipelines, if they are laid through a partition, must be laid through a sleeve. The diameter of the latter is selected so as to be 0.5-1 cm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe being installed. To seal the gap between the sleeve and the pipe, fireproof soft material is used to ultimately ensure the possibility of moving the pipe along the longitudinal axis in the event of thermal expansion. This is shown schematically in the following image.

The gaps in the partition can be masked in any suitable way, for example, by filling with the mentioned soft fireproof material and covering it with an element exterior finishing(lining, etc.).

All that remains is to figure out how to mount the water tank on the wall. The simplest option is installation on metal corners, the power of which would be sufficient to support the weight of the water tank.

Fastening is carried out as follows. Having attached the corners to the wall, you place marks on the surface, drill holes according to the marks and install dowels in them. Next, screw the corners to the wall using bolts 8-10 cm long and 1-1.2 cm in diameter.

You can install your water tank on the corners. The method is extremely simple to implement, but not the most reliable (we made a mistake when choosing the corners - they bent - the tank fell), and it is objectively suitable only for rectangular structures of small volume. The fastening method used when installing household water heaters is more reliable. To implement it, you will have to work with the welding machine again. You already have all the necessary knowledge, so no additional explanation is required. The procedure is as follows:

• a strip of metal is cut (the same stainless steel will do) with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm, a width of 5-10 cm and a length so that it protrudes beyond the side walls of the heater by several centimeters on each side;
• holes are drilled in the strip according to the diameter of the fastening bolts (you will understand by looking at the image below);
• the finished fastening strip is welded to back wall tank.

Further actions are similar to the previous instructions, with the only difference that the water tank is not installed on the corners, but is attached to the wall through them using a welded strip. It looks like this.

The tank is installed. You can test and, if everything is normal (no leaks, excessive heating and other unfavorable phenomena), accept the structure for permanent operation.

If desired, the system can be improved almost indefinitely, equipped with a variety of automation, measuring instruments, etc. The possibility of installing additional wiring to connect the tank to the shower stall in the washing room is not excluded - this will allow you to wash with maximum comfort. An example of the implementation of such an idea is presented in the following image.

Helpful advice! Install the tank in such a way that it is minimally distant both from the sauna stove and from the point of hot water intake.

Having sufficiently mastered the art of welding stainless steel, if you wish, you can make a tank not from a pipe, but from sheet material - this is a more responsible job compared to the considered option. An example of its implementation is covered in detail in the attached video.

Good luck!

Video - How to make a stainless steel water tank for a bath