We do budget renovations in the bathroom: inexpensive options for finishing the room. Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation: sequence of work We do the bathroom renovation ourselves

In any type of room renovation, there is a certain sequence that allows you to break down all the work into separate stages, analyze each stage in detail, and accurately calculate the amount consumables and output total amount repair. As in other rooms, it is necessary to follow the sequence of renovations in the bathroom, since violation of the algorithm of actions can lead to unexpected financial costs, and sometimes to repeated remodeling. Often, if the sequence of work is not followed, you may encounter damage to the finishing material from construction dust and dirt. In order for the work to be done quickly and efficiently, you need to divide the entire process into separate stages and study each in detail.

Sequence of repair work

The first question that inevitably arises for any novice master is where to start renovating a bathroom. In order to make the task easier, we will take the standard algorithm as a basis and analyze its sequence in detail. Step-by-step repair instructions will consist of the following points:

drawing up a project plan;
dismantling plumbing fixtures and old finishing materials;
surface preparation;
replacement of communication systems;
preliminary finishing of the premises;
finishing cladding;
installation of appliances and plumbing elements;
general cleaning of the premises.

The listed stages of work must be carried out in strict sequence, which is indicated in the list, otherwise there is a high probability of damage to the facing material.

Drafting

At the stage of creating a project, it is important to remember that the bathroom is considered quite complex from a technical point of view, since it contains a large number of various communications, and the bathroom renovation plan should be as detailed as possible, indicating all the main dimensions. In order to avoid any troubles as a result of the work, experts recommend drawing up a general plan of the room, and then on separate sheets of paper making detailed calculations for each surface separately, describing the stages of bathroom renovation. This instruction must contain a scale drawing of the floor, ceiling and each wall with exact dimensions, and it is also necessary to indicate in advance, down to the millimeter, the exact location of such elements as:

wash basin;
mirror;
electric hand dryer;
towel dryer;
lighting;
sockets and switches;
bath and toilet;
furniture and accessories;
washing machine, bidet, urinal, water filters and other plumbing items that require the installation of additional water supply and sewerage lines.

Also, the bathroom renovation plan must contain records of the power of all electrical appliances and the required cross-section of the electrical cable to support them.

Dismantling of plumbing fixtures and finishing materials

After drawing up a plan and a preliminary estimate, you can begin work. Bathroom renovations always begin with the dismantling of all plumbing elements. It is important to remember that you first need to remove the furniture from the room and all other bulky elements that will occupy the workspace. This will not only free up space, but will also help protect furniture and plumbing from damage when removing old tiles and preparing the room.

When carrying out a step-by-step bathroom renovation, it is important to remember that when dismantling the main task is not to quickly break it, but to carefully remove the old finish without causing major damage to the base, since you will need to repair all this damage later. As a result, the room should look like the photo above.

Also, the procedure for carrying out renovations in the bathroom at this stage involves grooved walls for laying electrical cables to consumers, drilling holes for sockets and switches.

Replacing old communications with new ones

In this area of work, it is necessary to dismantle all old pipelines and electrical wiring. Next is the installation new plumbing step by step, starting from the central water supply system to each consumer according to the plan. Then the sequence of renovations in the bathroom involves installing a sewer line and laying electrical wires into pre-made grooves in the walls. At this stage of work, all additional units of the water supply system, such as filters and sedimentation tanks, are connected.

Many people mistakenly believe that they can break the sequence of bathroom renovations and not replace the old ones. metal pipes on plastic, but experts do not recommend leaving the old plumbing fixtures, since the pipes are sewn up under the lining and in case of a leak, you will have to disassemble everything again.

Preliminary finishing of the room

Following the sequence of work in the bathroom, after installing plumbing, sewerage and all additional elements, rough or preliminary finishing follows step by step. If you plan to use plasterboard to level the walls, then first you need to equip the floor surface, lay waterproofing and fill the screed. If the stages of renovation in the bathroom are designed to use putty or plaster to level the surface, then the floors are put aside last.

Waterproofing of the room is achieved by treating the floor surface epoxy resins or using thick plastic film before pouring the screed.

Further, the procedure for renovating a bathroom at this stage involves the construction of boxes to hide plumbing, the installation of plasterboard partitions and the construction of a frame for a suspended or suspended ceiling. Upon completion of the preliminary finishing, the premises are cleaned of construction debris.

Finish lining

The procedure for renovation in the bathroom at the stage finishing involves the installation of the facing material that was chosen for the decoration of the room. Usually, the first step is to lay ceramic tiles on the walls, then lay out flooring and the last stages of work are devoted to installing tension or suspended ceiling. It is not for nothing that the procedure for renovating a bathroom leaves finishing the ceiling as an afterthought.

If the preparation of the bathroom for renovation was carried out correctly and the surface was leveled, then installation wall tiles usually starts from the top corner, this allows you to significantly save material and place all the pieces and remnants in the lower part of the room, where they are least noticeable. In order not to damage the suspended or suspended ceiling, it is put aside last. After finishing covering all surfaces, stage-by-stage repair The bathroom is moving to the stage of installing equipment and plumbing.

Installation of plumbing and electrical appliances

The final stage of renovation is considered the most interesting, since at this stage the room already takes on its normal appearance and gradually begins to please the owners. If the step-by-step renovation of the bathroom was followed, then now we have a fully finished room with plumbing, sewerage outlets and wires sticking out of the wall.

Now the toilet, bathtub, electrical appliances, lighting elements, mirror and all additional fittings along with the furniture. If the sequence of renovation in the bathroom has been followed, then upon completion of the installation of all elements and partial decoration, you can safely carry out general cleaning and enjoy a chic and cozy bathroom. You can get more information by watching the video in the article.

After reading this material, you will have a complete step-by-step instruction bathroom renovation, compliance with which guarantees high-quality and fast execution all assigned tasks.

If you decide to renovate your bathroom yourself, then this review will help you correct sequence actions. Choose the most suitable option carrying out the work and implement it as recommended in the relevant section of the article.

How to organize work

To cope with the work, you need to carefully plan each stage.

The more you understand each stage, the easier it will be to work:

Thinking through the future interior and choosing plumbing fixtures;
Dismantling of old finishing and equipment;
Laying communications;
Floor finishing;
Wall decoration;
Ceiling finishing.

Interior planning

Even before work begins, you need to decide on a number of factors and plan the repair.

The following aspects should be considered at this stage:

The size of the room - the design directly depends on this. If the room is small, then it comes to the fore rational use space. And if there is enough space, then you can implement any ideas that you would like to see;

Next, you need to choose the arrangement of plumbing fixtures and furniture elements. You don’t have to be a designer here; the Internet is full of examples that you can use. Moreover, you can take a ready-made solution, or you can make your own version based on one or several examples to take into account all the features of your bathroom;

It is necessary to consider whether replacement of plumbing and sewer pipes. Also decide in advance whether the plumbing will be replaced, as this will greatly increase the cost of the project. If a replacement is to be made, then decide in advance on specific equipment options in order to know its size, color and connection method;

Very important aspect– planned budget. If you need to carry out repairs quickly and inexpensively, then you should choose materials that are cheap and easy to install. And vice versa, if it is important for you to get the best result and price is not an issue, then you can choose expensive Decoration Materials;
Be sure to measure the area of all surfaces, this will allow you to accurately calculate finishing materials.

Dismantling old finishes and equipment

This part of the work very often takes longer than the finishing itself. After all, knocking down a tile is much more difficult than laying a new one; the same goes for removing paint and dismantling plumbing fixtures.

Let's look at the most common types of work:

Most often there are tiles on the floor. The easiest way to remove it is with a hammer drill with a flat blade. The process is noisy and not always simple, especially if the ceramics are held firmly and come off not entirely, but in pieces. It’s much easier if you have linoleum: you just need to remove the baseboard and tear off or simply remove the material from the surface;

As for the ceilings, they are most often whitewashed or. The first option must be removed using a spatula, after soaking the surface. The second one must be looked at according to the situation and use either special compounds, or heating with a hairdryer, or mechanical treatment;

As for the walls, they most often have tiles or many layers oil paint. The first type of coating is knocked down using a puncher or a hammer with a chisel. The second one is best removed using a special composition called paint remover. The remover is applied to the surface and left for a certain time, after which the paint easily comes off the wall; if necessary, individual areas are re-treated;

Dismantling of plumbing equipment is carried out according to the situation. Often the sides of the bathtub and its supports are concreted, so you need to free the structure using a hammer drill. If the structure is very heavy and it is problematic to remove it from a small room, then you can cut it into two parts with a grinder. This will make your work easier.

Laying new communications

If, after dismantling old equipment, you have discovered terrible metal water pipes and cast iron sewer elements, it is better to replace them.

The work is done in this order:

First you need to dismantle all the old pipes. Sewer lines are disconnected at the joints, and water pipes are cut off before the tap, which shuts off the water supply;

To hide water pipes, it is better to lay them in grooves. The grooves are made in the walls using a perforator according to the size of the pipelines. It is important to mark the location of the grooves in advance so as not to be distracted during the work;

The sewage system is made of plastic pipes. Thanks to connections with special seals, you can easily assemble the system with your own hands, and it will only take a little time. All turns and branches are made using special corners and bends;

As for the water supply, it is best to install polypropylene pipes, which are connected with a special soldering iron. If you do not have such equipment, you can hire a specialist. In the bathroom, the amount of work is small, and the price for services will not be very high;

Flooring installation

If you are renovating your bathroom yourself, you should start with the floor. We will analyze two options for carrying out the work: laying linoleum and laying tiles. But first of all, you need to prepare the surface.

The process is done like this:

The floor is cleaned of dust and debris; if there are large irregularities, cracks and damage on it, it is best to seal them with cement mortar. A ready-made dry mixture is purchased, diluted with water and applied to the required areas;
The easiest way to complete the final leveling of the floor is with a self-leveling mixture. It is prepared and poured onto the surface, after which it is evenly distributed using a needle roller or spatula. It is important to level the plane so that the base is even and smooth, this will simplify further work.

If you decide to make a heated floor, then it is better to fill the surface after laying the pipes or heating modules. Then you won't have to do the screed twice. The process here looks like this: first, the heating system is laid (this process is described in a separate review), after which the solution is poured so that its thickness above the pipes is at least 2 cm.

Now let's look at the fastest option for repairing the bathroom floor:

You can purchase linoleum, and you should choose options without a base or on a polymer foam base that is not afraid of moisture. It is very important to buy a piece of such a size that you cover the entire surface without seams. The material can have a large width, so there will be no problems with selection;

The material is spread on the floor and then leveled on the surface. All excess is carefully cut off with a knife at the junction of the wall and floor. The work is simple, but requires care so as not to spoil the material. Cutting is best sharp knife with a hard blade;

Since the room is small, it is not necessary to glue the material. It is much easier to glue double-sided masking tape around the perimeter and secure the linoleum to it. Everything is very simple and at the same time very reliable.

Now let's look at a more reliable option - tiles, which is not only attractive, but also durable.

In this case, the work is carried out as follows:

The necessary materials are being prepared. In addition to the ceramics itself, we will need adhesive composition and a fugue for grouting;

The required tools include a building level, a notched trowel, a mixer and a container for preparing the solution. You also cannot do without a tile cutter, since in any case you will have to trim some elements. Crosses will help make all the seams between the tiles perfectly even and neat;

You can start either from the middle of the room or from the corner of the room. An adhesive composition is applied to the floor, which is leveled using a notched trowel or trowel. One or more tiles are laid, after which their position is adjusted and checked using a level. If necessary, individual sections can be lightly tamped with your hand; usually they sit without problems;

The installation continues on and on. It is important to check the level of both each individual element and the entire surface as a whole. Place the level in all directions so that if there are problems, they can be detected and eliminated in a timely manner;

After laying the tiles on the floor, you need to wait for the glue to dry, which usually takes a day. Then the grouting compound is prepared and applied to all cracks. The work is done with a rubber spatula; you must fill the voids between the tiles to protect the surface from moisture. After the fugue has dried, remove its residue from the surface and wash the tiles.

Working with walls

As for this part of the room, here we will also look at two options: PVC panels and tiles. If you need an inexpensive option, then the walls should definitely be covered with plastic panels.

The work instructions look like this:

First you need to prepare the walls. If they have large irregularities or cracks, they should be sealed with cement mortar. Mold pockets must be treated with special fungicidal compounds;
For work we will need PVC panels and accessories for them, as well as wooden block for lathing and fastening elements. The tools you need are a level, a hacksaw, a screwdriver and a hammer drill, as well as a tape measure and a pencil for measurements and markings;

Wall finishing begins with the construction of the frame; for this, level markings are first made to determine the plane of the future frame. Next, the block is cut into pieces of the required size, and holes for dowels are drilled in it every 50 cm;
Marks are made on the walls, holes are drilled, and the block is attached to dowels, but not fixed. Using a level, the plane of the sheathing is set, slats and chips are placed under it, after which the screws are driven in;

If you have a riser in your bathroom, then it is also better to sew it up. To do this, a sheathing is constructed around the pipe.

Fastening the panels is simple. A starting profile or corner is placed in the corner, after which the first element is inserted. It is positioned with the protrusion forward, so that it can be secured with screws or a stapler at the rear. The work is simple and takes little time, the main thing is to join the elements well before fixing;

If you did not immediately attach the additional elements, then after installing the panels you need to glue the corners and other components with liquid nails. This will allow you to quickly close all the flaws and give the repair a neat look.

The second option for finishing the walls in the bathroom is laying ceramic tiles.

The process is almost the same as when tiling the floor, but it has its own characteristics, which we will consider here:

First of all, a strip or metal is fixed around the perimeter at the height of one tile. The laying will begin precisely from this element, this will ensure a perfectly flat plane of the wall, even if there are flaws on the floor. The work is simple: glue is applied to the surface, after which the tiles are glued. Do not forget to put crosses in the seams and check the flatness using a level;

The next day, the slats are removed and the first row can be added. If necessary, the elements are trimmed, and we get a smooth wall from bottom to top;

The final stage is grouting the joints with a fugue. It is important to fill all the seams so that no water gets under the surface.

Ceiling finishing

Now let's figure out how to repair the ceiling. There are three options here if you need cheap repairs, then the easiest way is to use plastic panels (the technology is the same as in the section above).

If you want to get a reliable and attractive ceiling, you can order a stretch fabric. Another inexpensive option is surface putty, which is what we will look at.

The technology of work is simple:

The materials you need are putty for wet rooms, a deep penetration primer and paint of a certain color;

The tools you need are a brush for paint and primer (or a roller), a wide and narrow spatula, a sanding float with sandpaper;
The work begins with cleaning the surface from dirt and dust. If there are seams on it, then they need to be sealed with a special solution for joints concrete slabs. Mold areas are treated with an antiseptic;
The ceiling is treated with a primer, this helps strengthen the surface and improve the adhesion of the putty composition. For concrete, a single treatment is sufficient. Work can be continued only after the surface has completely dried;

The putty is made in two layers. The first is needed in order to eliminate all minor irregularities and apply a more or less uniform layer of putty to the entire surface. The second is the final leveling, and all the flaws of the first layer are eliminated. The work is simple: the spatula is held at an angle of 30 degrees, and the mass is distributed over the ceiling in an even layer;

After the surface has dried, it needs to be leveled. To do this, use a grater with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh with a grit size of P150 or less. The ceiling is processed in parts to remove all the imperfections of the putty and make the surface perfectly smooth;

To check how well you have leveled the ceiling, simply hold a light bulb or flashlight to it. The light will show any flaws, if any.

After leveling, dust is removed from the surface. Then a primer is applied to it to strengthen the putty layer;
Lastly, coloring is done. Use washable paint to make the ceiling easier to care for and resistant to moisture. Most often, painting is done in 2 layers.

Now it's time to renovate the bathroom. How to make a decision: outsource the work to specialists or try it yourself? Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is worth considering, because the price of professional work is at least 50% of the cost of purchased materials. Since renovating a bathroom and toilet (meaning qualitatively) is not a cheap “pleasure”.

First of all, you need to find out the prices construction companies, then make an estimate for the actual manual repair, and then draw conclusions. Let's take a little look at what materials and tools are required. Then we will draw final conclusions.

Materials

The choice of materials should be approached with the utmost care. Since the bathroom is a room with high humidity, the materials must be appropriate. That is, used in the renovation of bathrooms or for exterior work. So what does it take to do a DIY bathroom renovation?

Wall tiles (tile). It has a slightly smaller size relative to the sexual one.
Floor tiles (porcelain tiles).
Laminate.
Mixture for masonry adhesive based, grout and crosses for gaps.
Self-leveling floor solution.
SM sheet (Glass magesite).
Floor grout (Thermo Plast)
Plastic pipes PPN (cold) and PPR (hot water). The latter have a reinforced vein.
Taps, adapters and fittings for pipes.
Sewerage, pipe Du-50.
PVA glue (emulsion)

Knowing what materials you will need, we measure the areas of the ceiling, walls, and floor. When purchasing tiles, you need to take into account possible damage and add 3-5% of the total quantity.

Advice: When calculating the amount of materials and their cost, ask the craftsmen not only the cost of the work, but also the price of the materials. After all, construction stores often offer discounts to professional workers with permanent employment or give discount cards. If the contractor does not have this, there is a high probability of ending up as “hack workers.”

Design development and selection of plumbing fixtures

When choosing plumbing fixtures, you should seriously think about the design, because without an idea of the appearance of the future bathtub, it is impossible to select the required fixtures. You can search for a photo ready-made solutions, or you can turn to designers for help, whose efforts will prepare a turnkey design bathroom. Then we proceed to choosing accessories according to your taste and budget. You should also consider how the washbasin and bathtub are placed, whether they will have separate faucets or you can get by with one, and whether the bathroom will be shared or separate.

Also, when choosing a faucet, you should pay attention to expensive ones with a hand sensor (infrared). This type of fittings will be much more economical than conventional ones. Indeed, in some cases, water savings will be 50% or more, and electricity for water heating will be about 35-40 percent.

Work order

Carrying out do-it-yourself repair bathroom , the exact sequence of actions must be followed. Let's assume that a design has already been created, materials and plumbing have been purchased, and tools are available (purchased or rented). So where to start doing your own bathroom renovation?

The most important thing is to be confident in your actions and get to work:

We are preparing the room.
We determine the condition of the floor, walls and ceiling.
We are starting a major overhaul of the floor: waterproofing, insulation and screed.
We install pipelines.
Laying out the electrical wiring
We level the walls and ceiling (plaster).
We insulate and sheathe the ceiling.
We're laying the floor.
We carry out wall finishing: tiling work, cleaning seams and sealing corners (sealing).
We install ventilation.
We install and connect plumbing.

As you can see, do-it-yourself bathroom renovation differs from other types of renovation. And why all?

Firstly, the bathroom is a damp and warm room where there are comfortable conditions for the growth of bacteria. Therefore, the use of ordinary drywall and waterproof metal frame is impractical, because over time this coating will become a breeding ground for infection.

Secondly, finishing the bathtub cannot be done with conventional floor coverings (laminate, parquet, wood, etc.), fasteners, parts, components made of steel that are susceptible to corrosion or oxidation, as well as highly absorbent materials.

Thirdly, special attention will need to be paid to electrical safety: increased and most importantly constant humidity of the floor, walls and ceiling in combination with high voltage carries a great risk to human life.

Note: If you have a small bathroom, you might want to consider installing a walk-in shower or corner bathtub. These alterations will help make your bathroom more spacious with your own hands, which will allow you to install a washing machine.

Preparing the room for work

First of all, we start dismantling the room: we take out all the appliances, mirrors, etc. At the next stage, we decide what will happen to the old bathroom. If replacement, then it should be dismantled and installed new bath or a stall or corner bath. If the bathtub is cast iron, there is no point in replacing it with a new one. It will be easier to do redecorating acrylic or epoxy compound.

At the next stage, we turn off all pipes and sewers. Close the taps and disconnect the cold and hot water, then we dismantle all the pipes from the toilet cistern, washbasin, faucets, heated towel rail. Then we clean down to bare walls.

Next, turn off the electricity in the bathroom at the switchboard and continue. We remove the old tiles and plaster on the walls to concrete or brickwork. If the bathroom with your own hands has strong plaster and good condition, it will be easier to update it. We also remove the coating and old paint on the ceiling and floor.

Carefully! All work must be carried out wearing a respirator, safety glasses and gloves.

To remove tiles from the walls, we use a hammer drill with a chisel (for concrete), everything needs to be removed, there should be no mortar residue. In the case of plaster, it can be removed upper layer and the surface is leveled, everything is cleaned with a metal hair brush with a diameter of 80-100 mm.

Removing coating from ceiling while renovating bathroom , Don't forget about safety - watch your head.

Since the work of removing coatings is very dusty, it is better to do it indoors, and if the door to the bathroom is removed, the opening must be tightly covered with film.

Repair of floors, ceilings and walls

Having removed the old tiles from the floor, we revise the old screed. If the surface does not have chips or cracks, you can use a diamond wheel on a grinder and simply level the surface. Otherwise, you will have to completely remove the entire coating to the base. If you are renovating a bathroom , If you are replacing a cast iron bathtub with any other, you can use a liquid leveler. Otherwise full of water cast iron bath will put too much pressure on the floor and cracks will appear again.

In cases where a major renovation is being carried out, the best option would be to use a self-leveling floor. Although ThermoPlast material itself is expensive, it is small room its use will be very attractive and not much more expensive than conventional solutions. And whatever the material for the new screed, you will have to do waterproofing.

For this procedure, you need to use only appropriate materials, such as polyethylene terephthalate or aquaizol. If the material has to be cut, then the joints should be heated construction hairdryer and glue with a special adhesive mastic. When the entire plane is laid with insulator and overlaps are made on the edges (at least 25 cm), you should pour new reupholstery floor.

Tip: The liquid for the grouted floor must be two-component. First, apply a thicker solution, and then a liquid one (to level the floor).

Insulation and screed

Continuing with your DIY bathroom renovation , You should seriously think about the material for floor insulation. After all, an insulated floor is not only comfort, but also a guarantee of good health. Thus, among the suitable materials, glass-magnesite sheet (GML) should be noted, while expanded clay and foam concrete are eliminated due to their high hygroscopicity and fragility.

SML is a very durable material and provides the opportunity to install beacons and mesh made of reinforcement.

When using a cement composition for screed, you need to use cement of quality 400 or higher, quartz sand (sifted), water with the addition of PVA (10-15%) - you will need a volume equal to the amount of cement. We make a solution in a ratio of 4 to 1, after which we apply a layer 4-5 cm thick (according to pre-set markers) and level it with a rule, followed by polishing with a polisher to create a perfectly flat surface for laying tiles.

Important! A new screed based on cement mortar should last about 40 days.

Installation of a bathroom begins with laying communications. You should start with the installation of the sewerage system, after which the pipelines are laid and the heated towel rail is installed.

Since pipelines always get in the way, look ugly and are an eyesore, it is best to hide them in a niche. But when we repair a bathtub ourselves, we must remember that sewer pipes cannot be welded and they must always be accessible. Then the most simple solution will run all the pipes in one bundle along the bottom edge and cover it with a galvanized sheet covered with tiles (it sits on the sealant so that you can remove the cover).

Only vertical sections for sewerage, water pipes, and pipes for heated towel rails will have to be tapped. To reduce and simplify drying installation, it is best to use metal-plastic pipes, because it’s easier to hide them in the wall.

In addition to the pipes, a DIY bathtub must be electrically safe; electrical wires must be hidden in it; they are best mounted in plastic, metal boxes or corrugated wires. And use wires in double insulation due to the increased risk of electric shock.

Ceiling lining

When renovating a bathtub at home, do not forget about insulating the ceiling, even if your house is very warm. The most important advantage of insulation is the reduction or complete elimination of condensation formation. As insulation, the best option would be, as in the version with a floor, LSU. The sheets are fastened with an adhesive solution or silicone, and while the glue hardens, the sheets are supported with slats at the rate of 1-2 slats for every meter.

When we renovate the bathroom ourselves, we want to achieve best result, but beautiful and high quality ceiling is the key to success. When choosing material for the ceiling, you need to remember the humidity of this room. And the best representatives for finishing the ceiling would be lining (plastic) or laminate. But there are several nuances here:

All installation is done using special mounting adhesive or silicone.
Before installation, the laminate is treated on the reverse side with PVA emulsion.
All boards must be supported with slats until the glue dries completely.
Before joining, each joint is coated with a thin layer of glue or silicone. And the remains are immediately removed with a rag soaked in solvent (for adhesive solution) or ordinary vinegar (for silicone).
The two final boards are installed together in a house-like fashion and then clicked together to complete the bathtub ceiling lining.

If suddenly questions arise: “Won’t the ceiling collapse on your head?” or “will moisture get under it?”, we can confidently answer that finishing a bathroom with your own hands in this way is very reliable and durable. After all, you have it fixed on the ceiling monolithic slab and it is glued along the entire plane, and its seams are sealed, which prevents moisture from entering. Also, after installing the ceiling, tiles are laid, which slightly overlap the laminate, which is an additional fastening and holds the coating even more reliably.

Floor and wall cladding

Laying tiles on walls and floors has a lot in common, namely:

The surface must be completely flat when making a bath with your own hands.
The mixture is applied to the size of 2 or more tiles using a spatula. The size is somewhere around 0.25-0.35 sq.m.
Remove drips of the adhesive mixture with a rag moistened with vinegar (for silicone) or flannel (microfiber can be used).
Each tile must be tapped with a rubber mallet (starting from the last one gradually towards the edge) so that there is no empty space under the tile.
You can use both tiles and porcelain stoneware.
Holes for pipes and plumbing are made in advance and cut with a diamond cutter (crown).

In addition to the general points described, there are several features. Among these nuances are:

The tiles are laid on the wall with seams (through crosses), and on the floor without.
The best option for the walls would be ceramic tiles (porcelain tiles are also possible, but this is much more expensive), and porcelain tiles for the floor. The latter has several advantages, in particular, impact resistance and “non-slip” when wet.

Briefly about materials and tools

Plaster

When renovating your bathroom, you need to remember that the final result depends on the quality of the preparatory work. That's why:

plastering is carried out along the lighthouses;
It is mandatory to apply 2 layers. Starting (tenacious base) and finishing (levels the surface).
plastering is carried out from ceiling to floor.
The edges of the waterproofing are secured with masking tape and plastered.

Pipes

When renovating a bathroom yourself, it is better to choose polypropylene pipes. You can use metal-plastic, metal, PVC pipes, but they are less reliable and durable, although cheaper.

Metal pipes- the cheapest, but they rust very quickly inside and from the outside, as a result they become unusable.

PVC is suitable for dachas, private houses, that is, short-lived buildings, and is also completely unsuitable for hot water supply.

Metal-plastic suitable, but for large volumes where a lot of bends, turns, etc. are required. (for water floors, heating installations and pipelines). Also, over time, fittings begin to leak.

Tile

To decorate the bathroom with your own hands, top level, you need to pay special attention to the choice of tiles. When purchasing, make sure that the surface of the tile does not have holes, chips, or other damage. To determine, it is best to look at the tiles from the sides.

Another selection criterion will be the same size of slabs in different packages. Therefore, you need to ask the seller for several pieces of tiles from different packs and look at the height and width. If the difference does not exceed 1 mm, then it can be taken.

Another important condition is the evenness of the surface. That is, the absence of “propellers”, bumps, etc. To check, place two tiles with the glossy side facing each other and look from the end.

Tools and mixes

When making a bathroom with your own hands, you can highlight the main tools and materials that you cannot do without.

Tile adhesive. It is best to take long-term drying (12-24 hours). This glue will allow you to carry out work without haste and correct all the “jambs”.
Spatula for setting up the adhesive mixture. The optimal tooth pitch is from 3 to 6 mm.
Tile cutter.
Diamond wheels, drills, crowns.
Rags, microfiber cloths, crosses, templates for laying tiles to make your bathroom flawless with your own hands.
Grinder, hammer drill and soldering iron with attachments for polypropylene pipes.

You may also need other available materials: wooden slats, spatulas, level, ladder, etc., that is, everything to make the turnkey bathtub you are renovating with your own hands ideal.

Let's sum it up

It is possible and even necessary to renovate a bathroom yourself, but for many reasons it can be an impossible task.

Firstly, the lack of the required tool. Perhaps renovating a bathroom with your own hands will cost you only the purchase of tools more expensive than repairs professionals.

And, secondly, a complete lack of experience, and, most importantly, desire will also become a big problem.

If all these conditions are not scary for you and the question “How to repair a bathtub with your own hands?” is not something supernatural and frightening, be sure to start repairing it yourself.

And finally, I would like to clarify that this article is for informational purposes only and describes superficial aspects of the repair. For a more detailed study, you can study the photo report of the masters, as well as the repair videos available on our website. For example, “How to make a bath with your own hands.”

And the most important rule of any master: “The eyes are afraid, but the hands do.”

In our difficult times, people often lack finances. But repairs still need to be done. And it is desirable that the bathroom has a decent appearance and at the same time lasts for five to seven years. In such situations, it will be useful to learn how to cheaply renovate a bathroom, spending a minimum of money.

Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation: how to choose budget materials

Today the industry produces Construction Materials various price categories designed for the consumer himself different levels prosperity. These can be goods of economical, standard and elite classes. There are also very cheap materials on sale, but their advantage is only in their low price. Quality and appearance such products do not stand up to criticism.

Carrying out the dismantling work yourself will significantly reduce costs.

Many works can be done independently, without involving specialists. For example, lining a ceiling with plastic lining does not require any special skills. Installing plumbing is also not difficult. Toilet, bathtub, washbasin - you can install it all yourself. It is only important to take your time, carefully study the assortment, calculate all stages of the work being performed, then a successful result will be ensured.

As for building materials, it is more advisable to choose economy class and standard products price segment. Both of these types of materials practically do not differ in quality. The same manufacturer can produce similar products under different trademarks. The first will be considered a standard class product, and the second - economical option, and they will differ only in cost. International standards provide for certain quality criteria, for example, density building mixtures hardening must not be below a certain threshold. For economical materials this figure will be closer to the lower value. This statement is true for consumables.

You can do without buying new plumbing fixtures and restore the old one

Regarding finishing materials, plumbing fixtures and other things, low price is not at all the same as poor quality. It is only necessary to take into account the load conditions to which the product will be subjected. For example, floor tiles should be stronger than wall tiles. With proper selection and installation, bathroom tiles can last more than fifteen years.

If you have decided to conduct budget renovation bathroom, photo samples of which can be seen in the gallery of this article, you should not purchase elite-class building materials. Their quality is no higher than that of budget products, and they benefit only due to their aesthetics.

Painted walls and well-chosen accessories will make the design flawless

Possibility of economical repairs

In order for the result of the work performed to meet your needs, you need to carefully work out the preliminary project, think carefully possible options finishes and choose the one that suits you best.

The main part of the costs consists of the following items:

the price of the work carried out;
cost of building materials and transport services.

Thus, it is quite possible to reduce the cost of repairs, and you can save on both counts. If you carefully study the information on how to make a budget renovation in the bathroom with your own hands, we can come to the conclusion that most of the work is quite easy to do yourself, significantly reducing costs.

Many renovation work you can do it yourself

It makes sense to decide to seek the help of professionals only for complex issues, such as installing electricity, installing a water supply, and laying tiles. It is very important that electrical work is carried out only by specialists.

Please note that the cable must be of good quality and well insulated. Only solid wire segments can be used, and the distribution box must be placed exclusively outside the bathroom.

Question, How to make cheap bathroom renovations with your own hands worries many owners. To prioritize between savings and quality of room design, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

Doing the work yourself. It is advisable to carry out most of the repairs yourself, since the prices for specialist services may exceed the cost of materials. It is better to carry out all dismantling work on your own.
Having your own tool. Need to think about it design features repairs in such a way as to minimize dismantling work. A basic set of tools will help make the task easier and faster. In addition, this will significantly reduce financial expenses. It is recommended to have at least minimum set, which will include a drill with a set of drills (preferably an impact drill), a hammer drill with bits, and a cutting grinder with discs for metal and concrete.
Economical materials. Purchasing budget building materials will help you save significantly. But there are things that you shouldn’t save on, since subsequent replacement may cost more than the initial purchase of quality products. But in some cases, you can reduce costs wisely.

Reducing financial costs for bathroom renovations

If you need a cheap bathroom renovation and qualitatively, pay special attention to scrupulous planning of expenses. A detailed estimate will help you save a lot of money. A thorough comparative analysis pricing policy market. In addition, on the Internet, as a rule, you can purchase many materials at a significant discount, especially when purchasing in bulk.

Even from inexpensive but high-quality materials you can create a cozy and stylish interior

To enliven a boring interior and diversify the static surface, experts recommend purchasing inexpensive accessories and little things that will add coziness to the room and become an appropriate addition to the design. Additional convenience and decoration can be shelves, hooks, soap dishes, rubber mats, curtains and other decorative elements.

No need to buy building materials and equipment famous manufacturers, since you will have to pay extra for the name. Branded items are a priori more expensive. It will be much more profitable to purchase building materials produced by domestic companies, as well as those produced by our closest neighbors - Poland, the Czech Republic, and Finland. These will be high-quality, certified products. Of course, we are not talking about low-price goods from China. However, their products of average cost will be quite good. Remember that you cannot sacrifice quality and aesthetics for the sake of savings.

Pasting walls with glass wallpaper will help save money on bathroom renovations

Save on ceiling repairs

To issue the original and unusual interior bathroom, and at the same time save money, you should first of all pay attention to cheap methods of finishing the ceiling in the room.

A flat ceiling can simply be painted in any color

Tensile structures look attractive and rich, but are expensive. However, the appearance of plastic panels is no worse. An important advantage suspension systems is that with their help any unevenness on the ceiling plane is easily leveled. In addition, this type of finishing allows you to create multi-level structures. PVC lining is a moisture-resistant material, which means you don’t have to worry about flooding. It is easy to lay an electrical cable and install lighting inside the slatted ceiling. The price of such a system is quite affordable. Economical options bathroom renovation, photos of samples of which will demonstrate the feasibility of such actions are presented below.

A slatted ceiling made of plastic is slightly inferior in practicality to a suspended ceiling

If the ceiling has only minor irregularities, it can simply be painted. To do this, it is necessary to remove the old top layer of coating, apply putty, sand out uneven areas, and treat with a primer. After this, paint is applied in several layers. This type of finishing is very inexpensive and looks quite attractive.

Budget floor finishing

The specificity of the bathroom is constantly high humidity with insufficient air exchange. Therefore, the floor covering must be resistant to moisture and wear. Ceramic tiles best meet these requirements. If you are considering a budget option bathroom finishing, You shouldn’t buy expensive elite class tiles – you can get by with domestic analogues. In our country, industry produces a lot of such materials, the cost of which will pleasantly surprise you. In addition, markets and stores often hold sales where you can purchase cladding products at a significant discount.

Waterproof linoleum will become a reliable covering for the bathroom floor

There is an even cheaper option for finishing the floor, such as linoleum. There is a wide range of such coatings on the market in various colors and textures. There are even waterproof varieties of PVC linoleum. The main advantage of this material is that it can be installed literally within a few hours. Linoleum does not require gluing - pressed against the baseboard, it will smooth out and level itself.

Wall finishing options

The best option for decorating the wall surface in terms of price and quality would be domestic tiles, which can be purchased from leftovers at the market or warehouse. By purchasing a discounted product, you can save fifty percent of the cost or even more.

Domestic tiles will cost less than foreign analogues

A plain tile decorated with friezes or decorative inserts will look quite decent. And the price will be completely attractive.

Inexpensive renovations in the bathroom, sample photos of which are presented in the article gallery, can be done by covering the walls PVC panels. There is a huge selection of domestic and foreign designs that deserve attention. Plastic lining is available in all sorts of colors and textures. There are also panels with imitation tiles, marble or wood.

Plastic panels can be used to decorate both the walls and ceiling of the bathroom

Professionals recommend choosing materials intended for outdoor use, since the plastic from which they are made is much thicker and stronger, and therefore will last much longer. PVC panels are easy to install yourself. Such work will not require special skills and will take very little time.

At the right approach, reasonable planning and a well-written estimate, it is quite possible to carry out a budget bathroom renovation. Rational selection of building materials and independent performance of the maximum part of the work will help to significantly reduce financial costs. If you follow the recommendations of experts, beautiful interior will delight your guests and delight you for decades.

Painted walls and well-chosen accessories will make the design impeccable. Many repair work can be done with your own hands. Even from inexpensive but high-quality materials you can create a cozy and stylish interior. Pasting walls with glass wallpaper will help save money on bathroom renovations. A slatted ceiling made of plastic is slightly inferior in its practicality. stretch Waterproof linoleum will become a reliable covering for the bathroom floor

Are you thinking about renovating your bathroom yourself? This is not surprising, since carrying out the entire repair process yourself will be much cheaper. On average, the amount of the possible fee is calculated from half the cost of all necessary materials.

But, of course, you should not think that everything will be simple: you will need to calculate all possible costs, have knowledge and sufficiently high skills, if not in carrying out repairs, then at least in handling tools. If you do not have the above, then it would be better for you to turn to specialists. Think and weigh your decision carefully. Read this article about renovating a bathroom with your own hands, including photos, and then finally make your decision. In it we will dwell in some detail on the production of actions in their chronological order indicating the materials and the approximate cost of the required materials.

To renovate your bathroom yourself, you will need the following:

Choose plumbing fixtures, decide on their quantity and nomenclature;
Develop a bathroom design and choose the colors you need:
Calculate and purchase the necessary finishing materials;
Prepare the room where repairs will be carried out;
Assess the current condition of the bathroom floor. Decide on the method of repairing it and purchase materials for the work;
Repair the floor. This item will include:
its waterproofing - that is, measures to make the floor waterproof.
replacing the screed, a layer is raised under the screed, created to level the floor, and on which the floor covering is usually installed.
floor insulation;
Pipeline laying;
Working with electrical wiring;
Plastering the ceiling and walls;
Wall cladding, grouting and corner sealing work;
Flooring;
Installation of ventilation system.
Installation of your chosen plumbing fixtures.

The time you will spend on renovating the bathroom with your own hands starts from 2 weeks, in case of replacing the bathroom and toilet. It will take at least 2 months to replace the floor screed. Let's go directly through the points of the specified plan:

Selection of plumbing fixtures

It’s difficult to talk about specific advice here, since everything will depend on your choice of brand and manufacturer. Let us just mention that when renovating, you should think about what to do with the old bathroom. If it is intact, then below, when considering the issue of preparing the premises, ways to improve it will be indicated.

Project stage

This stage is directly related to the choice of plumbing fixtures, since it will affect the complexity and cost of the repair itself. Thus, the characteristics of the tiled wall covering depend on the shape of the washbasin. It will be impossible to provide all the details; this is a topic for a separate article. Keep in mind that when building a house, bathtubs are decorated with the same materials from the same supplier, so the cost of repairs can reach up to 1/5 of the cost of housing. IN an ordinary house It makes no sense to think about a faucet built into the wall, since such a possibility is laid down during construction, and breaking the wall is an unacceptable option.

Do not use common industrial wood or plain steel parts. Such materials absorb moisture or are prone to corrosion, so using them in places with high humidity does not justify itself. For the same reasons, installing sockets and switches in the bathroom is life-threatening. Of course, there are ways to make them, meeting a number of formal requirements, but we will not consider them here. If your apartment has limited space, consider installing a walk-in shower. This will help free up some space in which you can install something more necessary. Think about it and choose a design that you like.

Estimate

It makes no sense to explain why it is necessary to evaluate the equipment needed for repair. Remember that it is wrong to be guided by a lower price when choosing materials for a bathroom renovation with your own hands. There are a number of parameters that are of significant importance, but which are quite difficult to understand without special knowledge. These are the coefficients of moisture absorption, thermal expansion and porosity of the material. Since the bathroom is a place with a lot of variation temperature regime and high humidity, which affects both the strength of materials and the sanitary and hygienic situation in the home, then it would be wrong to proceed from the principle of cheapness.

You most likely will not find some parameters in the material description, so you should select materials directly intended for use in the bathroom. Materials used for outdoor construction may also be suitable, since the conditions of interest to us are similar.

The price for tiles will be from 40 to 60 rubles per piece, depending on the country of origin. The quality of tiles from domestic and European manufacturers on average does not differ from each other, but European samples usually have best design. The situation is the same for floor and wall tiles, the only difference is in size. Porcelain tiles will cost more, from 50 rubles per piece, however, it is recommended to use them for flooring. Unlike usual ceramic tiles They have a non-slip surface and great strength. Considering the rather high traumatic rate of bathrooms in medical statistics, this is an important circumstance. In the store you should pay attention to the condition of the tile surface. The presence of damage on it will lead to the appearance of dirt that cannot be cleaned. To ensure the integrity of the tile you choose, hold it against your face and look at it along the light source. Another factor is the size ratio. If the tiles are different sizes, and this is quite possible, then during installation, the surface will look repulsive, and even if it is not installed, you will have to waste time returning the goods to the seller. To check, take several pairs and place the edges next to each other and take a closer look. The difference in size should not exceed a millimeter. Then test the edges, they should be smooth.
Tile adhesive. Considering that the work of installing the tiles will be carried out by you yourself - best choice The glue will dry slowly, from half a day to a day. This will allow you to correct all possible mistakes made and give you the opportunity to work for your own pleasure. The spatula should be selected specifically for the glue, such information is contained on the packaging. If for some reason the packaging does not contain information about the pitch and depth of the teeth, and the glue itself has proven itself well, then choose a shallow depth of 3 to 6 millimeters. Using a trowel with large teeth will likely cause cavities to appear under the tiles.
Templates for laying tiles. It is best to use plastic crosses because they are easier to work with.
Grout for tiles. It is not necessary to purchase, since a piece of cable 5-6 millimeters in diameter may be suitable for grouting joints.
Glass-magnesite sheet from 250 rubles per 1 sheet.
Laminate from 300 rubles per board.
Self-leveling floor. For a bathroom, it is preferable to use two components, this is an initial viscous pour, then a liquid one for leveling. The approximate price is from 220 rubles per 10 liters, the same with the insulation effect - from 640 rubles per square meter.
Teak or larch floor. If you decide to have a wood floor rather than a tile floor. It will cost more, but it looks and feels nicer. Price from 500 rubles per square meter.
Pipes. The best option is polypropylene pipes: for cold water(PPN) from 24 rubles per square meter, for hot (PPR) from 35 rubles. The choice is due to the fact that working with steel pipes difficult, metal-plastic tends to leak in fittings over time, while polypropylene can be welded and hidden in the wall. Sewer pipes start from 45 rubles. We will also include fittings in this category. Fittings made from solid plastic are most preferred, as this will avoid possible leaks. Switching to metal makes sense when connecting pipes to a boiler. Shut-off valves must be spherical and soldered into plastic. The cost of fittings and fittings will be 60% of the price of pipes. Please measure when purchasing outside diameter pipes with a caliper. To work with pipes you need diamond drills, if the sizes do not match, you will have to buy more, and such drills are quite expensive.
PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles per 5-liter package.
Plumbing. It all depends only on your choice, let’s just say don’t skimp on quality - plumbing fixtures should serve for a long time and conscientiously. When considering options for a heated towel rail, it is recommended to take a heated towel rail from of stainless steel. Other options are either of unsuitable quality or overpriced. When choosing a faucet, consider purchasing one with an infrared sensor that automatically turns on the water when you raise your hands to a preset temperature setting. You've probably seen this at airports. The mixer, of course, is not the cheapest, but it will allow you to reduce your water costs by half and heating energy costs by 40-45%.

Prices are approximate and based on current market value. Nevertheless, you will be able to somehow navigate these prices and, taking into account the area, calculate the renovation of the bathroom with your own hands. You will not need everything listed directly when performing the work; some of the presented options are alternatives; their choice will be discussed in more detail below.

Let us repeat once again: you should not be guided by cheapness when choosing materials; their use will only complicate the work. When purchasing materials, take into account possible defects and errors in calculations: there is almost always a need for some reserve. So, with tiles it is recommended to have 3-5% of the excess amount. When renovating a small bathroom, you will do a little more - 5-7%. For other materials add 35-40%.

Now let's get down to work.

So, as already mentioned: first of all, the question is in the old bathroom. Cast iron bath can be updated with acrylic or epoxy compound. Installing a new cast iron bathtub will not provide any advantage in quality and service life, and dismantling it and installing a new bathtub is quite labor-intensive. For a tin bath, if there are no enamel chips or other serious damage, you can use an acrylic liner. If the tin bathtub is in poor condition, do not hesitate and choose a new one. To renovate your bathroom, you don't need any special skills. The difference between acrylic and epoxy is price and labor intensity; the latter is cheaper, but somewhat more difficult to work with. It is impossible to create an insert yourself - it is manufactured at the factory, where you will have to order it, but the installation technology is as follows:

thoroughly clean and degrease the bathtub;
insert the liner and check that the drain holes are aligned correctly;
double check and apply glue to the inside of the tub.

The method is quite expensive, but still cheaper than a new bath.

Turn off the water. Disconnect the cold water line from the flush tank. If you are not going to move out during the renovation, then it makes sense to supply water to the kitchen through a temporary pipeline. Even using an ordinary hose will do, just remember to turn off the water when you are away or at night. The quality, as you understand, of such a system is far from ideal. But otherwise, you will have to go without water for about 10 days, which is an even worse prospect.

Start dismantling everything in the bathroom. Only the walls should remain. Sewage system At this stage, do not touch it yet, plug the heating for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. Next, turn off the power to the bathroom.

Now you can start cleaning the bathroom surfaces. This part of the work is associated with garbage and dust, work with glasses, a respirator and, if you don’t want to clean the whole apartment later, with closed door or film in the opening.

The work starts from the ceiling. For old tiles, use a hammer drill with a concrete chisel. If cement mortar was used to secure it, you will have to remove it completely. Be careful when working on the floor! If your old screed is in good condition, then a hammer drill when removing the cement backing can damage it, and this is unnecessary trouble for you. If there are reasons to preserve the old screed, then use a grinder with a diamond cup. The work will be done more accurately and will reduce the cost of major floor repairs.

For the top layer of plaster and old paint use a drill with an 80-100 mm round metal brush. In old houses, the plaster is often weak and must be removed down to the base, be it brick or concrete. It is enough to level a solid one with a drill using a cleaning brush and measuring the level. When working with plaster over electrical wiring in the bathroom, you need a hammer drill with a chisel. Remove the wires. Just in case, tap the walls and try to drill them: in a number of houses of the Brezhnev era, gypsum fiber boards were used for insulation. If you find something like this, you will have to dismantle them. There will be more work, but their replacement is necessary. Be careful when working with the ceiling, it may even collapse. Take care of the supports.

The cleaning is complete and the old tiles have been removed. Time to clean the floors. After wet cleaning you can begin to inspect the installed screed. The presence of even one crack will lead to the need to replace it, which means a major overhaul of the bathroom floor. Of course, if the damage is minor, then this can be avoided by using a layer of self-leveling floor. But more on that later. First of all, let's consider the need to remove the old screed and begin waterproofing the floor.

In order to waterproof the floor, there are few options: this is aquaizol or its polyester analogue. Conventional film for the bathroom is not applicable, moisture will seep in one way or another, but aquaizol will retain water at any temperature. The insulation should extend at least a quarter of a meter (25 cm) onto the wall, based on its weight. 4000 liters of water per 10 square meters- this is the strength limit of the floor. The folds at the corners should not have cuts. The joints of the waterproofing layer are glued together with mastic or welded using an industrial hair dryer. Practice before doing this kind of welding, it’s not easy.

Having finished with the insulation, proceed to installing a new screed. When assessing possible costs, it was already mentioned required material. This is a glass magnesite plate. Its strength will allow you to install without delay reinforcing mesh and place beacons. There are no alternatives, foam concrete and foam concrete are too fragile, and expanded clay absorbs water. This is an extremely long stage; the new screed must stand for 40 days before you can continue work. Screeds have special requirements for cement mortar:

grade of cement from 400; the sand must be quartz;
sand and cement relate to each other in a ratio of 4:1;
the volume of water must be equal to the volume of cement;
You need to add PVA emulsion to the water in the amount of 1/10 of the volume of water.

The formation of the screed is carried out along the markers in a layer of 4-5 cm. Having leveled the formed surface, bring it to smoothness. A tile floor requires a level base surface for its flooring.

Let's move on to replacing the pipeline. You should start with the sewer pipes, since the seals with sealant will assemble it quite quickly, one day will be enough. Welded joints are not made on sewer pipes. After this, you can begin soldering the water pipes with peace of mind.

How to lay them? It’s not worth doing it in the open form, it will bring aesthetic pleasure to few people, making grooves, if you are not familiar with the concept, is a groove in the wall, laid to be able to remove the pipe, a tedious and time-consuming task, and in the case of block houses, fittings cannot be used violate, and she herself will not allow the ditch to be made. Nevertheless, there is a solution: the pipes can be run parallel to the floor, and then a galvanized slope can be made on them. Next, using silicone, glue the facing tiles to the completed slope in a color that matches the future appearance of the bathroom.

The slope is also glued with silicone to the floor and ceiling, and can be done after the work is completed. If necessary, the silicone can be cut with a mounting knife. With a standard bathroom layout, the length of the slope will be approximately a meter. You still can’t do without grooves, but this is only for vertically installed pipes: for a faucet in the bathroom, if there is one in your bathroom, for a faucet in the washbasin, and there may be a couple more if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. The pipes in the grooves should be foamed, this will serve as additional protection against fogging and heat loss. The installation process of polypropylene pipes is very simple, the main advantage is that within thirty minutes from the end of welding the last connection, you can use your pipeline system. uh

Remember, butt joints between pipes are not allowed. Use fittings and couplings to connect them.

To weld joints you will need: a machine for socket welding of polypropylene pipes; nozzles for the pipes used; pipe cutter; Shaver, chamfer. Metal-plastic is well suited for a heated towel rail. Thanks to its flexibility, the lower fittings will be hidden under the slope, and the position of the upper ones will not change.

It should be laid with a double-insulated, corrugated wire. The most commonly used is plastic, its price is low, however, if you are planning to replace the wiring throughout the house, use metal, the wiring will be shielded.

Before starting plastering work, glue the protruding waterproofing to the wall using construction tape, it is impossible to trim it, as already mentioned. The bathroom is a cramped space, so when applying plaster we recommend using half a rubber ball rather than a trowel. It can be used for any type of work with alabaster, gypsum or hardening compounds. It will be easier to work this way.

The plastering itself must necessarily be carried out along the beacons - for subsequent wall cladding a flat surface is required. It is best to use beacon profiles, which are easy to get at any hardware store. Making beacons yourself is not worth it, you will only waste time and will hardly be able to achieve a smooth surface. The plastering sequence is usual, from the floor to the ceiling. Apply two layers - for the conditions of the bathroom with its changes in humidity and temperature, this form will be the strongest.

Ceiling insulation is required not to maintain temperature conditions, but to prevent future problems that will certainly arise if condensation deposition is not stopped. The best option would be to use a glass-magnesite sheet; unlike the floor, the LSU will be bonded to the surface of the ceiling with silicone or assembly adhesive. While working, use slats as supports, about 1-2 per meter of ceiling. Do not remove them before the glue dries.

Having finished with insulation, we move on to adding gloss, although this gloss has a functional meaning as condensation. A good option is a material such as plastic lining or laminate. Don't worry about the reliability of the material. Moisture-resistant glue, even if it peels off in part of the ceiling, will not lead to collapse - since the boards are connected to each other, forming a single integral structure. After completing the ceiling work, you will begin cladding the walls. The laid tiles will serve as a support for the laminate.

When preparing the material, follow these points:

processing the reverse side of the PVA material with emulsion;
the installation itself is carried out using assembly adhesive or construction silicone;
the ridge of the tongue, which refers to the protrusions by which the boards are connected, as well as the method of such connection itself, a thin layer of glue is applied, its drips must be removed immediately.

Suitable for silicone table vinegar, for solvent glue. Please note - the last two laminate boards should be laid together, fold them like a house and insert, pressing on the joint until it snaps into place. Don't forget about supports until the glue hardens.

Corners should be sealed with silicone to prevent moisture from penetrating under the ceiling sheathing. When making holes for wiring, do not make them at the junction of laminate boards. I think you understand why. Once you've finished covering the ceiling, foam the hole or fill it with silicone.

Of course, there are other options. But self-production suspended ceilings often unjustified, and we will not describe its methods here. If you wish to do this, please read the selection criteria. It is also possible slatted ceiling– is also a very common option, but its production is the topic of a separate article.

Tiles are usually used for wall cladding. Porcelain tiles have similar properties, but are more expensive; the advantages that were mentioned when choosing tiles for the floor do not matter for walls. Covering bathroom walls with plastic panels is becoming common; it is quite cheap and meets hygiene rules, but in this article we will not consider how to work with such material.

When laying tiles on walls, the joints must be cut. To do this, crosses are used, inserted between the tiles using glue and immediately removed as described above. The adhesive is applied using longitudinal strokes of a spatula, with an average tile size of 30 by 30 centimeters - 0.25-0.35 square meters each. The presence of voids under the tiles is unacceptable, so apply glue so that the rustications are parallel to each other and not too deep. Each tile you lay should be tapped next to it. rubber mallet from the previous tile to the free edge. On those tiles that will go to the outlets of the wiring pipes, you need to pre-drill holes with a diamond core bit. Once the glue has set, seal the corners with silicone. The method is simple - a thin polyethylene film is applied to the silicone, then a piece of electrical cable is applied.

Apply pressure and then remove any silicone streaks with vinegar. A smooth concave surface should form. If desired, the corner seam can be covered with a decorative overlay using the same silicone. Seams are cut on the plane special composition, which is cheaper than silicone. The cross is removed, the remaining seam is filled and pressed down with a cable - the film is not necessary in this procedure - the drips are removed. Do not cut the seams with your finger - there will be irregularities inside the seam that are invisible to the eye, in which dirt tends to accumulate. The technology for laying wall and floor tiles does not differ in itself, but small features for gender will be discussed in the next section.

Please note that if you use a mixer with decorative caps, then you should buy a crown larger diameter than pipes. Otherwise, you will have to measure the places for the holes, which requires jewelry work.

There are two tile options for the floor - the reasons why porcelain tiles are better than tiles or wooden floors have already been explained.

In the case of a wooden floor, the procedure will be more expensive, but the result will be more pleasant. The boards should be selected tongue-and-groove; the installation procedure will be similar to the ceiling, but leaving a distance of 2-2.5 centimeters from the wall. This space is designed for swelling of the boards. Do not leave cavities; fill the gaps with polystyrene foam before installing the baseboard. A wooden floor coated with PVA emulsion and liquid acrylic varnish will last a very long time.

Regarding tiles, installation should be done from the door so that the cut tiles are located under the slope or bathtub, where they will not be visible. This last row of cut slabs is laid last after the glue has hardened under the other slabs, so as not to disturb the previously done work. The only difference from laying on the wall is the absence of seams - the tiles are adjusted to each other.

First of all, inspect the box that was removed in preparation for the repair. Often, after cleaning and repainting, they are suitable for further use. Just install it back. It will be better if you additionally install a flapper valve in it to avoid cold air flows into winter time. It is recommended to install a fan for the ventilation system; this will ensure better air circulation in the apartment and prevent fungus from appearing on the walls.

It has no fundamental features. Often to new products You can even find instructions on the sequence of actions to install it. Your actions include installing a bathtub (you won’t be able to do it yourself without an assistant) or a shower stall, as well as a sink. Then come the faucets, then the water meter. If you wish, you can connect a water heater to your bathroom.

It is permissible to install such stationary electrical appliances in the bathroom as exhaust fan, the cord must be three-core, have a protective conductor and a Euro plug with a sealed entry into the housing, and ceiling lamp, requiring waterproof performance. Washing machine– a topic for a separate discussion, since it does not apply to stationary devices.

All the necessary steps for doing a DIY bathroom renovation were discussed. Watch the video where the bathroom renovation procedure is described step by step. We did not mention bathrooms combined with a toilet due to the numerous features of the work and approximately twice the labor intensity than for the renovation of two separate rooms; this topic needs to be discussed separately. As you can see, the procedure is labor-intensive, and if you are unsure of your skills, then it is better not to take it.

It is better to entrust this labor-intensive and rather lengthy procedure to specialists. They know exactly how to do everything right. But you should still familiarize yourself with all aspects of a bathroom renovation for a better chance of completing the entire renovation procedure successfully and without complications.

At the very least, after reading this article, you will be able to monitor the work of the performers whom you decide to entrust with bathroom renovations. On the other hand, if you are confident of success, go ahead! Repair costs will be reduced significantly. For more successful DIY bathroom renovation, we recommend that you watch a video on this procedure.