Decorative plaster video tutorials. Finishing with decorative plaster. Video on how to apply. Photo of walls covered with decorative plaster Technology of applying decorative plaster by hand

Among all finishing materials, decorative finishing occupies one of the leading places, since application is a fairly simple task, after which you can get a spectacular wall surface.

In its structure, this material is a paste-like mass, which has various methods of application to walls or ceilings. It has found its application as a base or as an independent finish. But in order to understand the principles of application, you need to familiarize yourself with the advantages and methods of installation, consider the main methods of application decorative plaster.

Structural plaster: features

This type has a heterogeneous granular composition, which includes additives in the form of granules or fine-grained pebbles, as well as pieces of quartz. This finish is made on a cement-lime base using a special synthetic latex. It is also diluted with water or organic solvents.

For plastering inside a building, the most suitable option is water-based mixtures. They do not contain foreign impurities with a smell, which means that when finishing the apartment there is no need to remove all residents from it.

The main advantage of structural plaster is its plasticity, which makes working with it very easy. The work is simplified due to the fact that the solutions are already sold ready-made and no special preparation is required before use. It goes on sale in iron containers or buckets weighing 15-25 kg.

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Laying structural decorative plaster

Before starting to apply the mixture, preparatory measures are carried out. It is fundamentally not important to achieve evenness, since the composition allows you to hide small defects. A cleaned and dried surface is required. After cleaning, the working area is strengthened with a primer. It is necessary to create an intermediate layer that performs protective function and prevents the entry of dampness, thereby protecting the walls and the laid mixture from moisture. The plaster can be applied after the primer layer has completely dried.

The solution must be applied with a trowel or wide spatula. It is laid in one layer, while making circular or straight movements. The ridges protruding from under the spatula form a pattern. The texture of the pattern depends on the installation methods and additives in the mixture. Structural decorative plaster sets and gains strength after 3 hours, and complete hardening occurs in almost a week. After this, the coating must be sanded and the dust must be removed with a damp cloth or sponge. A similar mixture and application method are used for plaster made from mineral, latex or silicate solutions.

This decorative plaster is considered durable, it is not subject to mechanical damage and moisture, has an aesthetic appearance and is made from safe components. In this regard, it is in great demand for finishing both inside and outside.

The texture of the pattern will depend on the size of the grains. To give the walls a sandy effect, grains with a fraction of about 0.3 mm are used, and to create raw stone, grains of 1.5 mm are used. The most popular “bark beetle” is achieved with a grain size of 2.0 mm. When using a fraction of 3 mm, the walls take on the appearance of the bark of a centuries-old tree.

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Tinting structural plaster

The initial color of this plaster is white. You can give the coating a variety of shades in several ways:

1. Add pigment to the finished composition, but with this method there is a possibility of not achieving the desired color.
2. When purchasing plaster, you can contact a specialist who will carry out professional tinting.
3. This type of decorative plaster can be coated with color after the composition has completely dried.

To give the surface different shades, color is applied and rubbed with a rubber sponge, and if there is a desire to create abrasions, then go over with a damp foam sponge. After the color has dried, the walls are treated with wax.

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Textured decorative plaster

Types of decorative plaster: smooth, textured, embossed.

Using a textured finish, you can create a surface with an extraordinary relief texture. If we compare structural and textured plasters, the difference between them is relative, but there is one factor that adds complexity to the design, the components of the composition and the tools used. By performing textured plaster, you can give it a look that imitates wood, crumpled paper, hewn or chopped stone, or natural wood. This coating gives the surface originality and style.

The advantage of such plaster is that you can choose installation methods for any interior and design solutions. This helps give it a finished and harmonious look. The texture mixture includes lime flour. And the special qualities depend on additives consisting of granite or marble chips, as well as various fibers. The basis can be polymer compounds that give the surface a more textured texture and do not crack when drying.

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Technological process of application

Unlike other plasters, textured finishing does not require special preparation of the base, since its relief well hides defects on the walls where the material is laid. In this regard, the following preparatory work is being carried out:

1. Clean the wall surface from paint and varnish coatings or other remnants of finishing material. If the surface requires this, it must be treated with a solvent to remove oil stains, after which the treated areas must be washed with soapy water.
2. Next, the wall structure is covered with a primer.
3. If necessary, the cracks are expanded and filled with gypsum or cement mortar.
4. Lay the base layer, which is used as an acrylic primer. But it is not applicable for all types of plasters. For certain types of textured composition, other options are sometimes used, for example, deep penetration putty-primer.

Before laying the textured composition, a test is carried out on a small piece of the wall to select the appropriate consistency of the composition. If the composition is prepared according to technology, then it should not be liquid and flow from the surface, but thickness is also not welcome.

To apply the solution and create texture, these will be useful (any application method requires tools):

• set of spatulas;
• metal iron;
• large porous sponge;
• unnecessary solution container;
• bucket with water.

When performing textured finishing, you need the help of a partner: one applies the solution, the other needs to quickly form the decorative texture.

The mixture should be applied using a spatula in a uniform layer, the thickness of which should be about 2-3 mm, and for a coarse-grained composition it should be equal to the cross-section of the grain.

Of particular interest to those who wish to renovate their home is decorative plaster application technology. Indeed, in our time this method has become quite widespread and fashionable. Therefore, it is worth considering ways to apply decorative plaster with your own hands to make your home even more beautiful.

The materials used for plastering are water, polymers and fillers, which we will discuss later. Thanks to plaster, you can perfectly level the surface, including brick, plasterboard, wood and others.

Tool for applying decorative plaster:

• in the first stages it is necessary to use a spatula, sandpaper and a building level;
• on the second, add a grater and smoother;
• then you will need a lint roller;
• Now take a flexible spatula, trowel, suede mitten.

Different ways to apply decorative plaster with your own hands

Travertino application technology - procedure and stages of work

Let's look at the application technique for decorative travertine plaster. It can be divided into the preparation and finishing stages. The first applies exclusively base. But for the second one it is important to devote enough time. First, prepare the surface well, so the finish should adhere firmly to the walls. For this:

• level the walls. We are especially talking about depressions of 1-1.5 cm;
• do not correct the clay-sand finish using gypsum putties;
• remove cracks. After all, they are unsuitable for installing plaster.

How to remove cracks? The following steps will be required:

• clean out and increase the width of the crack;
• cut off the edges;
• make reinforcement.

Let's move on to the primer. Without it, the fresh Travetrino solution will immediately be absorbed into the old plaster. Use either a branded primer or acrylic. Apply it in two layers to nourish and prime. Find out about the consumption of deep penetration primer per 1 m2 at.

When the walls are dry, you can apply plaster. Stages of applying decorative plaster:

• take the solution. Do not place the grater directly into the bucket. After all, then the work will not look neat. Use a narrow spatula to press the mortar onto the trowel;
• apply. Layer size – grain size. So the thickness should be minimal, as thin as possible. After all, this way the composition will dry faster;
• We wait until it dries. It's worth dedicating enough time to this. It all depends on what features are in the plaster composition, as well as the features of the room in which the repair is being carried out;
• We do grinding. Use fine sandpaper for leveling. If this is not done, then there will be no problem, but during painting the wall will lose color and shine;
• We do the finishing. Thanks to it, relief appears.

You can apply the mixture using this method of plastering different ways. It depends on them what character the texture will have and how rich the coloring will be. Find out about penoplex plaster.

For more information about Travertino decorative plaster, watch the video:

Bayramix wall application technique

The next option is decorative plaster Bayramix, the application technique of which we will consider. Since this polymer mixture, then the basis for it must be suitable. Almost any of its options will do. For example, concrete, expanded clay concrete, gypsum, plasterboard, chipboard, DVB and others.

In addition, it is allowed to apply a similar mixture to whitewash or a layer of oil paint. At the same time, there is one important condition - a flat and stable surface. He will tell you about textured plaster made from plaster.

There are special primers from the manufacturer that differ in quality. At the same time, it is a good idea to use an acrylic primer.

If the surface is thoroughly primed before plastering, the plaster will adhere well to it.

The peculiarity of the work is that no need for beacons. After all, the solution does not serve as a leveler, but only as a finishing one. Basically, they undertake to plaster all the walls at once. However, if the volumes are large, then you will have to resort to joints. At the same time, it is important to make them as even as possible so that the whole look is beautiful.

A quick tip for this is to use masking tape where the seam will be. Remove it when finished. Another secret is to place the joint near windows and doors. In such places they are less noticeable.

Now apply the solution no thicker than 2 grains. You can level it using a grater or trowel. This way the surface will be free of streaks and tool marks. Find out about mortar for plastering a home oven.

Alpina - sequence of work for interior decoration of rooms

Let's consider the application method for Alpina decorative plaster. Prepare a substrate in the place where Alpina is applied. Plaster can only be joined in dry, clean, level and durable places. Their It is important to thoroughly remove fat.

Stages of applying the mixture:

• prepare the solution. Due to the fact that the plaster itself is not a dry mortar, it is already ready to be used. If you want to make changes to the structure, then add water, but only a little.
• use primer before application;
• apply finishing material at temperatures from + 5°C to +30°C;
• use a stainless steel trowel for application;
• You can also remove excess mass using a trowel.

Wet silk method - roller application option

There is one more interesting way, different from others - applying decorative plaster wet silk. Silk plaster is unique and you can apply it more than one way.

There can be many effects from this. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• We prime the surface. This will require two coats;
• wait 4 hours for the walls to dry;
• We use the initial coating for plaster. To do this, apply decorative plaster with a velor roller or trowel;
• Allow three hours for drying;
• Apply the plaster loosely. When doing this, use a sponge;
• after 20 minutes, smooth the surface using a plastic spatula;
• if you press the walls a little in different directions, you will get a beautiful pattern.

Type of application Fur coat

Decorative plaster the fur coat is applied roller and is quite simple to produce. For this purpose, wrapped fur is used.

For good result Make sure that the solution is not too liquid or too thick. Here is a short sequence of actions:

• Using a spatula, the mixture is applied to the surface;
• using a roller it rolls out onto the wall;
• When the surface dries, start smoothing it a little using a dampened trowel (you get a cork effect).

There is an option dip the roller into solution and paint the surface. But then the coating will be rougher.

It is possible to produce different variations with the surface structure. The longer the pile of the roller, the larger the texture will be. If there are holes in the roller, you will get an original design.

An interesting option is to apply this decorative plaster in two layers. First we level the entire surface. Then apply a roller directly over the mixture that has not yet dried. When the solution begins to set, a more liquid mixture is applied to the surface.

Thanks to this approach, you can end up with different types of textures.

Another variety of methods for applying Lamb

The technology for applying decorative lamb plaster is something that requires a special approach. In this case it is important buy plaster and primer paint, which contain quartz sand. Thanks to the use of a grater, spatula and trowel, the surface will be embossed.

As soon as you apply the mixture, immediately remove all excess. To do this, take a spatula and place it at an angle. Collect all the plaster. If the residue has not yet hardened, use a wet cloth to remove it. If frozen, a mechanical method will do.

In this application technology, it is important to consider some recommendations:

• Make sure that the composition does not stick to the walls, but at the same time does not get absorbed into them. To do this, a primer is applied to the walls;
• when your surfaces are all smooth, then use primer paints as a treatment;
• The plastering process can only begin when the primer is completely dry;
• the width of the layer to be applied must be equal in size to the granules contained in the primer;
• structuring of the mixture occurs during the first 15 minutes, so it is important to calculate the surface to be treated at the very beginning before work;
• Apply the plaster using continuous movements.

Kameshkovaya

The technique of applying pebble decorative plaster is very similar to lamb plaster. Below you can familiarize yourself with the technology of its application.

Burlap effect - applying wax to plaster

Similar to this is the technology of applying decorative plaster, the effect of burlap, which produced from ordinary putty. How is wax applied to decorative plaster? Application occurs in certain stages.

In this case, they start from the corners of the walls and make movements without stopping. It is important that there are no layers. A cloth with solvent will help reduce where the layer has become too large and has begun to darken the surfaces.

The time it takes for the wax to dry varies depending on which manufacturer's product you use. Basically, 3-6 hours are allocated for this.

During the drying time, you can correct possible shortcomings and notice shortcomings. Allow about 3 weeks for the surface to dry completely.

Then you can wipe the walls with a damp cloth. If over time you develop more skills in this matter, then wax can be use as a relief for walls, and make from it beautiful flowers and patterns. The difference between gypsum plaster and wall putty will tell you.

Decorative plaster manna, the application methods of which we will consider, is very attractive. Such decorative plaster applied with a trowel. The thickness of the first layer should be uniform. To create a “fur coat” effect, use a fur roller, which is used to roll the surface after applying the mixture.

The walls dry out within 4 hours. Further actions:

• To remove all irregularities, the surface is sanded a little. To do this, use a grater;
• using a trowel, apply the mixture in the form of islands;
• smooth everything carefully using the edge of a trowel;
• Using a brush, remove all possible dust.

A popular type of decorative plaster among builders is the world map, the application technique of which is quite simple.

For this:

• some unpainted areas are protected with mounting tape and film;
• the surface is treated with a roller and brush thoroughly soaked with primer;
• when everything is dry, then applied primer-paint using a roller. This will create a rough surface.
• apply a second coat of paint (if necessary);
• Mix the plaster thoroughly and start applying from the top left corner. Move to the bottom right.

Parade

A very popular type of interior decorative plaster is the Parade method. Here is a video showing the application technique of this type.

In addition, you can use decorative caparol plaster, the application technology of which is known to many.

The layer to be applied must be continuous. Use a trowel or a special sprayer for this.
Use a plastic or polyurethane spatula to structure the entire mixture evenly over the entire circle.

If the plaster is grooved, then it is structured selectively. Either circular or horizontal-vertical movements will do. If you constantly change tools, the surface topography may suffer. After all, when you change tools, it changes. The diameter of the nozzle should be the same as the size of the grains.

Do not exceed pressure more than 0.4 MPa. The material must be applied extremely evenly. There should be no overlaps or sharp transitions. This application of decorative plaster Zhitomir is quite affordable.

And here is Leonardo decorative plaster, the application technology of which is also known to us. For work we will need the following work order:

• base surface covered with a layer viscous solution(a couple of millimeters thick);
• before this, saturate it with a primer;
• for simplicity, divide the walls into sections for work;

• Start applying the solution from the top right corner. Thanks to this, the solution will not contaminate the treated surface;
• at the end, smooth everything out using a grater;
• start forming the relief.

Grotto

Grotto decorative plaster is an environmentally friendly coating. It is based on mineral natural fillers and natural lime. Plaster creates the appearance of rocks. It was its similarity with the relief of karst grotto caves that gave the name to this plaster Grotto.

Below is a video with the technique of applying it:

Decorative sand plaster is applied using the same method. Its application method is the same as Leonardo's.

As you can see, there are many types of plaster application for finishing work.

Glazing with acrylic varnish using a roller

Glazing is the final operation when performing decorative plaster. It is designed to give surface strength to a painting or relief. Currently, glazing is carried out with a special glazing composition or acrylic varnish.

The varnish quickly penetrates the surface of the plaster; it is simply applied with a brush or roller.

The choice of a particular method depends on what kind of design and interior do you want to create? in your house. It is important to adhere to the above recommendations in order to avoid serious mistakes in your work.

In general, the work is quite simple and does not require special skills. We recommend that you read the material that will tell you about.

It is quite understandable that many owners of private houses want to give their home a completely unique look. They come to the aid of relief plasters, which are made from mortars on various bases and are applied to the surface of the walls either with special tools, or with improvised, sometimes completely unexpected objects, depending on what effect is planned to be obtained.

Do-it-yourself decorative plaster of walls is a great way to stand out from the crowd. Before deciding on the choice of the desired pattern and the technique for its reproduction, it is necessary to consider various finishing options. After the desired relief has been determined, it is advisable to conduct a practical lesson and plaster it in accordance with the plan.

Some techniques for working with decorative plaster can be called art, since they are molded from it three-dimensional paintings with various scenes that can become an exclusive decoration for the wall of an apartment or a country mansion. Experienced craftsmen, using them, create real works from ordinary plaster mass, which set the style for the entire design of the room or facade.

Decorative plaster - what is it?

For a long time, decorative plaster has been used to decorate walls, and with changes in interior styles, its plot patterns and relief changed, becoming more complex or, conversely, simplifying for the sake of fashion. It has not lost its relevance to this day - in our time, with the help of a similar technology, finishing of both the facade parts of buildings and the interior walls of the room is carried out.

Most often, a plaster coating is used, which, in addition to being decorative, also performs a protective function, preventing moisture and dust from penetrating the main wall.

For interior walls, finishing with a uniform pattern or a relief plot panel can be used. By choosing a relief in the form of a painting to decorate your home, you can be sure that it will be guaranteed to be original, since it is almost impossible to depict the same pattern twice in exactly the same way using this technique.

Reliefs applied to the wall are usually covered with one or more shades of color, which give them a deeper dimension. If desired, when you get tired of the original color of the decorative plaster, you can easily change it to another. Moreover, this process can be carried out both on a uniform coating and on a panel. Paint is applied to relief panels with a brush and sponge, and on a uniform surface using a spray gun or roller.

Decorative plaster can have a deep relief, which is called bas-relief - it protrudes above the wall surface by 8÷15 mm, or it can be almost smooth and stand out only in color. Today in construction stores you can find compositions that can form a relief surface even when applied with an ordinary spatula, and for some of them special attachments are used that are installed on rollers. They are able to imitate tree bark, tall grass, layered rocks and many other three-dimensional patterns.

The plaster mixtures used to create the relief are quite plastic. They are easy to apply to a previously prepared wall surface and transform into various designs.

Basics of technology for applying textured plaster

Work on finishing walls with decorative plaster is carried out in stages, in accordance with the requirements of the developed technology. It includes several stages.

• The first step is to determine the design that will decorate the walls, as well as the tools necessary to reproduce it. The relief sample should be in front of your eyes while working so that you can follow its contours. This is especially important if the plot option of the panel is chosen.
• Next, you need to prepare the tools that will be used to knead plaster composition, applying it to the wall and creating a relief pattern.
• When everything is ready, you can move on to preparing the walls. This process is carried out almost identically for both facade and interior walls - it includes cleaning the surfaces of old coatings, rough leveling, and then priming them. It is better to choose a primer composition with antiseptic additives, then the walls will be protected from damage by mold, mildew, moss, etc., as well as from the creation of nests by insects.
• Then a starting leveling layer of plaster is applied to the prepared, well-dried surface - it will become the basis for the textured finishing layer.
• After the starting layer has dried well, the wall surface is recommended, once again, to create higher adhesion between the layers of the plaster composition.

• The next step, again, after the soil has completely dried, is applied finishing textured plaster, from which the relief is formed. In some of the techniques used, the upper part of the applied plaster is leveled into one plane, and textured depressions remain inside, creating a uniform but chaotic relief.

• When reproducing some designs, it is necessary to apply several layers of decorative plaster, and in this case, each of them requires good drying.
• Next, if the color was not added to the plaster mixture, the paint is applied on top of the textured layer. If the surface is given a uniform pattern with indentations, then this process is best carried out using a spray gun. If you plan to paint unevenly, you can use a sponge or brush for tinting. The paint should be applied so that it emphasizes the beauty of the relief of the decorative coating. When tinting a panel, the paint is applied in several stages to create a visual perception of its depth.

When performing work, you should strictly follow the step-by-step instructions. Making any changes to the relief manufacturing technology can have a bad effect on the design result. Therefore, there is no need to rush - you need to thoroughly dry each of the layers, observing their order. It is better to immediately prepare for the fact that it will take more than one day to create a high-quality relief wall covering.

Now that we know general principles decorating a wall by applying decorative relief plaster to it, it makes sense to consider the tools that can be used for these technological operations.

decorative plaster

Tools for working with relief plaster

When decorating a wall with decorative plaster and using it to form a relief pattern, use the following tools:

• To mix the plaster mortar, you will need a drill and a mixer attachment. With their help you can easily and quickly, without special effort make the mixture plastic and homogeneous.

• Spatulas of various sizes - these tools can be called the main ones when working with any plaster, since you cannot do without them when applying any of the finishing layers.
• or a trowel are also quite often used to cover surfaces with plaster solutions.
• A special glove that is used both for creating relief and for coloring it.

• A brush with hard or soft bristles, plastic film, rubber gloves, a sponge or plastic mesh for dish washing.
• Using a roller and rubber attachments can be called the most popular way to make a wall in relief. The variety of these devices allows you to choose one of the many textured patterns offered by the manufacturer.

In addition, using this technique, the work goes faster, and the print on the wall turns out neat and aesthetic, however, such reliefs cannot be called exclusive. The attachments on the rollers can have patterns of plant patterns, waves, various curls, geometric shapes and others.

Reliefs that imitate the texture of leather or tree bark, as well as other natural materials, look especially impressive.

Nozzles can create a textured pattern located vertically or horizontally, chaotically or perfectly correctly - this factor will depend on the preference of the owner of the home being finished.

Textured plaster expands the possibilities of transforming walls, and the presence of a variety of tools opens up scope for creating numerous designs. It should be noted that craftsmen who are professionally involved in this art, when making reliefs, often use completely unexpected tools and household items, for example, wood cutters, manicure spatulas, or even ordinary teaspoons.

Materials for decorative plaster

In addition to properly selected tools, it is necessary to choose the optimal plaster composition. The assortment is quite wide, since many well-known manufacturing companies offer special ones that allow you to easily transform the facades and premises of houses.

Starting plaster

In addition to the decorative mixture, you need to purchase starting plaster, with which you can level the surface of the wall, preparing it for relief decoration. For this purpose, it is better to purchase formulations made on the same basis as finishing, then we can say with confidence that good adhesion will be created between the base and the outer plaster layer. So, for the starting, leveling layer, the following are suitable:

• Starting plaster on a gypsum basis. Distinctive feature This mixture has a short time before setting, so you need to work with it very quickly. If you have no experience in leveling walls, then it is better to choose a mixture that will provide the opportunity for longer work.

• For example, a solution on cement based Perfect for both experienced craftsmen and beginners. It can be purchased at finished form, or make it yourself from cement and well-sifted sand, taken in a ratio of 1:3. For the plasticity of a homemade mixture, PVA glue is often added to it or liquid soap. Thanks to these components, the solution will become softer and at the same time “sticky” to the walls, and will be easy to work with.
• Sometimes clay is used for the starting layer, which can also be purchased at a hardware store in already prepared form. Most often, clay mortar is used for plastering. wooden surface, but lately craftsmen still prefer to work more modern materials. Although clay has numerous positive qualities, such as elasticity, good adhesion to the surface, environmental friendliness, and in addition, it is a “breathable” material.

Decorative plaster compositions

For decorative finishing special plaster compositions are used, which are also manufactured at different bases. They are intended for a variety of relief patterns, so some of them are equipped with various additives. On the packaging, the manufacturer indicates the name of the relief for which this mixture is intended, since solid crumbs from different materials can be used as additives, having large and fine fractions and giving different finishing effects.

The table below shows some types of decorative plaster, which are most often used to decorate the façade of a house and interior walls.

Appearance of packaging	Relief pattern created on the wall	The basis of decorative plaster	Additive fraction size, mm
		Mineral "Ceresit CT 35"	"Bark beetle" 2.5÷3.5
		Mineral "Ceresit CT 137"	"Pebble" 1.0÷2.5
		Polymer "Ceresit CT 77"	Mosaic 0.8÷2.0
		Acrylic "Ceresit CT 60, ST 63, ST 64"	"Pebble" 1.5÷2.5; "bark beetle" 2.0÷3.0
		Silicate-silicone "Ceresit CT 175"	"Pebble" 1.5÷2.0; "bark beetle" 2,0
		Silicate "Ceresit CT 73"	"Pebble" 1.5÷2.5; "bark beetle" 2,0
		Textured acrylic "Capital"	"Quartz coat"
		White cement based "Master"	"Lamb" 2,0
		Acrylic "Optimist-Elite"	"Venetian plaster" white thick homogeneous paste

As you can see from the table presented, plaster mixtures are produced in a dry and pasty state. Ready-made pastes, diluted to the desired consistency, will usually cost slightly more than dry mixtures, but they are much easier to use, since you do not have to calculate the proportions when mixing.

Ready-to-use plasters can be used immediately after the primer has dried on the prepared wall. Upon completion of the work, the remainder of the mixture is closed in a packaging bucket, and during the next stage, the paste can be reused, since it can be stored for quite a long time in a closed state.

If desired, create plaster self-made, you can take as a basis the recipes given in the table below:

Components of the solution	Appearance and color of plaster
	White marble effect	Yellow marble	Under red granite	Under gray granite
	Quantity in parts by volume
Portland cement M400	1	1	1	1
Lime dough	0.5	0.25	0.1	0.1
Marble flour	0.5	0.25	-	-
Marble chips	3	3	3	3
Mica (based on cement volume)	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
Pigment in % by weight of cement	-	Ocher 3÷5	Iron minium 5÷10	Manganese peroxide 1÷5

Primers

Wall priming products used at the preparatory stage are sold in paste and liquid consistency.

plaster

• To treat the wall before applying the starting layer, it is recommended to use deep penetration liquid formulations that include antiseptic additives.

• After the starting plaster has dried, it should also be primed, thereby creating a good basis for the finishing decorative layer. For this process, it is best to use a primer that has a thicker, closer to paste-like consistency.

Each layer applied to the wall must be completely dried, and only after that the next one can be applied. Otherwise, the plaster may begin to crack or peel off the surface.

Coloring compositions for decorative plaster

They can be tinted, or they can be painted before starting work. Sometimes the color is added by the manufacturer to the plaster kit; in other cases, color additives are purchased separately and are also added to the paste or dry mixture before mixing or applying it.

Another option for giving finished decorative plaster the desired color is to paint it using a spray gun, roller or brush. In this case, a white or gray composition is applied to the wall, and then, after it dries, it is given a uniform or voluminous coloring.

To paint textured plaster applied to the wall, water-based paints are used - emulsion and water-dispersion. Such paints are produced in various colors, but if you wish, you can give them a shade yourself by purchasing separately a white “base” and the color you like. They are mixed immediately before being applied to the wall, and in this case you can achieve a darker or, conversely, lighter shade, which will help give volume and depth to the pattern on the wall.

Varnish for decorative plaster

For textured plasters that have shallow relief or a relatively smooth surface structure, a varnish or wax protective decorative coating is usually used.

Varnishes can be matte or glossy, and can significantly enrich the color of the wall decoration. Thanks to even one layer of varnish, the plaster will retain its original appearance much longer.

In some cases, to achieve the desired effect, it is better to apply the varnish to the wall surface in several layers. For example, if an imitation of polished stone or crocodile skin is reproduced on the wall.

Wax is most often used as protective agent for Venetian plaster, which can acquire a matte or even mirror shine after application. Wax is odorless and is an environmentally friendly material. It is able to protect the wall covering from dust and yellowing, and in addition, it creates a water-repellent layer, and at the same time has good vapor permeability, that is, the walls do not lose the ability to “breathe”. Thanks to these qualities, wax coating can be used in living rooms and rooms with high humidity.

The wax is produced in a colorless version and preserves the color of decorative plaster in its original state. In addition, it can be tinted with metal pigments or pearlescent additives. For example, CERA wax, shown in the illustration, is produced in three color options - colorless, silver and gold, which allows you to enrich the decorative finish with a pleasant soft sheen.

Masking tape

In some finishing works it is impossible to do without the use of masking tape. It is used to protect adjacent surfaces when working on one of them, as well as in cases where it is necessary to separate different textured or color patterns from each other. The tape easily sticks to any surface and is removed without leaving marks. It has a low price, so in any case, stocking up on all the materials necessary for finishing, it is worth purchasing as an auxiliary tool.

When purchasing any finishing materials, it is very important to pay attention to the manufacturer’s specifications, which are located on the packaging, about what kind of work they are intended for, internal or external. Many compositions for external use are also well suited for finishing indoor walls, but materials for internal use when applied to the façade, unfortunately, they will not last long.

Versailles plaster

Preparing wall surfaces

Now, having figured out how to choose a material and what tools you will need for the job, you can move on to considering the process of preparing walls for applying plaster solutions.

Preliminary preparation of wall surfaces

To get a high-quality result, it is very important to thoroughly clean the wall of old coatings, and similar actions are performed both on external and internal walls. It is necessary to remove old wallpaper, paint or whitewash from them, otherwise the starting layer of plaster will have insufficient adhesion to the surface.

The main activities for preparing wall surfaces are shown in the table below:

Illustration
	Removing the old layer of plaster from the walls. This process is especially important to carry out very carefully if the old decorative coating begins to peel off from the main surface. If you need to remove thin plaster layer, then for this purpose you can use a grinding machine or a construction float with coarse sandpaper installed on it.
	If the walls are covered with wallpaper, the old wallpaper must also be removed. Usually pasted old wallpaper is moistened with a spray bottle, and this process is carried out several times, since the canvases should get wet all the way to the wall. After this, the finishing material is removed using a spatula.
	Another option for cleaning walls from wallpaper is steaming. For this purpose, a special tool or a steam iron is used, and in addition, an air humidifier can be used, which is directed towards the wall that needs to be cleared of wallpaper.
	If the wall is painted, then the paint layer must also be cleaned off, otherwise the plaster layer simply will not lie on the wall. Paint is removed using a scraper, softening the old paint with a hot stream from a hair dryer. You can also use the abrasive method, using a grinder with an iron brush or an electric drill with an abrasive attachment.
	After the old decorative coating is removed from the wall surfaces, a leveling plaster layer or simply the solid concrete base itself will be exposed. Quite often there are depressions and irregularities in concrete that will have to be leveled by applying a putty layer.
	If plaster is found good quality, not separating from the main wall, then it does not need to be cleaned off. In this case, notches with a depth of 5–7 mm are made on the surface of the wall using an ax or chisel. They will be necessary to ensure better adhesion of the leveling starting layer to the wall. However, they often do without them, using modern “concrete contact” type primers, which provide excellent adhesion of the applied plaster compositions.
	However, quite often the situation is such that the old plaster has to be removed completely, since it crumbles and does not adhere securely to the surface. This flaw can be revealed when applying notches, since when tapping in some areas of the wall, the plaster layer can “bounce” or even simply fall off. If a layer separates over a large section of the wall, then it is best to remove the old coating completely - the process, as they say, has already begun, and no one can guarantee that the remaining areas will remain stable.
	Once the old plaster layer is removed, serious damage in the form of deep cracks may be found on the wall. They must be sealed, otherwise they will eventually appear on new plaster layers and the work will be ruined.
	Detected cracks are expanded, that is, they are made wider and deeper. They are then cleaned and treated with a deep penetration primer. They are filled with a plastic repair compound. Special repair solutions are available for sale, but for interior work you can also use regular starting putty. The repair solution must fill the entire volume of the cut crack, to the full depth or width. If a wide crack is found, it can be filled with polyurethane foam with a slight expansion. Its excess, which protrudes outward after the material hardens, is trimmed flush with the wall. In some cases, to strengthen the crack and to avoid its manifestation through new finishing layers, a reinforcing sickle mesh is glued on top of it onto the putty solution.
	After the repair “patches” on the cracks have dried, they must be cleaned with a construction float with an abrasive mesh installed on it first, and then with sandpaper.
	The next step is to coat the wall with primer. antiseptic composition deep penetration. If the first layer of primer is absorbed into the wall surface without a trace, then one or even two more layers of primer are applied. The primer composition will penetrate the pores of the plaster or wall material, strengthen its surfaces and create good conditions for adhesion of materials. The solution can be applied with a roller or a wide brush. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried.

Plaster work can be done on a primed and dried wall.

Applying a base leveling layer of plaster

The next important stage is plastering work, which finally prepares the surface for further application of decorative plaster. Alignment is carried out on a primed and well-dried wall.

Methods for plastering surfaces may vary slightly, depending on the wall material and surface quality. But the general technology is still general, and more details about it are in the table below:

illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	If, when checking a wall using a building level, it is discovered that it requires major leveling, then the first step is to place beacons made of special metal profiles on the surface. They are fixed on the wall in increments of 1000÷1200 mm, controlled vertically and horizontally using a building level and a long rule. These profiles are fixed using cement mortar with the addition of gypsum or just a gypsum mixture, since this material sets quickly and will not delay subsequent work. Between the slides of the solution on which the beacon profiles are attached, a distance of about 400÷500 mm is maintained.
	Having set the beacons, you can proceed to mixing the plaster solution. It must be homogeneous, without hard inclusions, otherwise it will be problematic to level it to perfection, since voids may form near large hard fractions, which will weaken the coating. Before applying the solution, the wall can be slightly moistened by spraying it with a spray bottle or brush. The next step is to throw a thick layer of plastic mortar onto the surface, which should be 30–50 mm higher than the beacons. Excess mortar will be removed as a rule when leveling the plaster.
	Next, the wet solution applied to the wall is leveled by a rule moved along the beacon guides. Work begins from the bottom of the wall - usually, slowly, it rises, while it is slightly moved from side to side for better distribution of the solution in the space between the beacons. At the same time, excess plaster mixture is usually collected, which can later be used for application to neighboring areas walls.
	After plastering the surface, it should be left for 2-3 days to set. In this case, it is recommended to periodically spray the wall with water to obtain greater strength of the applied layer. Next, the still wet plaster is rubbed down, pouring cement laitance onto it. This work is carried out using a plaster trowel or grout, which is lightly pressed against the wall and the surface is rubbed in a counterclockwise circular motion, making it even. The rubbed surface is left until completely dry, which depends on the thickness of the layer and can take from 5 to 15 days.
	The dried plastered wall should be well primed using a paste-like thick primer, which is applied with a roller. Hard-to-reach areas of the wall are treated with a narrow brush. A water-based primer dries quite quickly, so very often after 2-3 hours it becomes possible to move on to the next stage of work.
	If we are talking about interior work, then in order for the result of finishing the wall to be of high quality, it is recommended to apply a thin, 1.5÷2.0 mm, layer of gypsum-based plaster onto the leveling plaster layer. It will make the surface smooth, correcting all the shortcomings of the base layer. The plaster is applied with a metal trowel or a wide spatula, making semicircular movements. It must be remembered that the gypsum mixture quickly sets and hardens, so knead a large number of solution is impossible, since it will no longer be possible to “revive” it by adding water. It should be noted that as this starting layer for decorative plaster, you can use a ready-made cement-based mixture, or one of the common putty compositions. After this layer has dried, it must be primed.

Decorative plaster - application and coloring

When all the leveling layers have dried and the wall is completely prepared, you can proceed to the final stage of work - applying a decorative plaster layer.

Several popular methods of applying relief

This is perhaps the most interesting creative process, upon completion of which the wall will take on a completely new look. For this stage, a decorative paste-like plaster mass or a dry mixture is used, which is mixed independently, in the same way as the base solution, that is, using a mixer mounted on an electric drill.

In any case, the mass must be plastic and homogeneous, unless, of course, a coating such as “bark beetle” or “lamb” is chosen, which contains additives from stone chips. But even with such a solution, the solid fractions should be distributed completely evenly in the plastic mass.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Venetian plaster can have a different relief pattern, but it is always shallow and chaotic. However, sometimes it is the background for clear geometric or floral designs. Decorative plaster is applied using a metal or rubber spatula in thin layers, the number of which can be from 5 to 8. Despite such a considerable number of layers, the total thickness of the plaster made using this technique is only 3÷4 mm.
	To reproduce Venetian plaster, an already tinted composition is most often used, otherwise it will be necessary to paint it after its application and drying is complete, and in this case part of the intended effect will be lost. The desired effect of a “silk” surface is achieved by the presence of several layers of the same color, and each of them is applied and rubbed in different directions. Thanks to this technique, strokes that differ in direction give different reflections of the light falling on the wall. Thus, the surface has a silky sheen. In some cases, in order to create the effect of a deeper spatial volume, translucent from the inside, several color shades close to each other are taken.
	Each of the layers of plaster composition applied with strokes is smoothed, but this process is carried out by tangential movements with the application of certain forces. For each of the layers professional craftsmen they use spatulas and trowels of varying thickness and width, creating a multi-layered chaotic relief pattern from the solution. Using this plastering technique, you can imitate the pattern structure of various finishing stones on the wall. To enhance the imitation effect, after completing the plaster application, after waiting for it to dry, the surface is polished with wax or coated with matte varnish.
	A more accessible option for non-professionals is relief plaster. The composition is applied using a regular spatula in one or several layers, each of which must be dried. The relief of each layer can be smoothed, or its protruding fragments can be left in their original form. Smoothing of the solution is carried out using a metal trowel, with gentle touches. Using this technique, you can create various reliefs, and their shape and direction will depend on the creative mood of the master.
	If you intend to create a relief that has regular smooth shapes and lines, you can use a notched trowel (trowel), usually used for applying glue when finishing surfaces, to reproduce it ceramic tiles, or a special comb.
	This type of relief pattern will not be difficult to reproduce for a craftsman who has picked up a plastering tool for the first time. The first step is to apply a layer of plaster mortar to the wall using a regular wide spatula, and it is not necessary that it be perfectly even. Then a relief is displayed on it in the form of semicircles, checkerboard lines or other patterns that you can come up with yourself.
	Another relief option that can be reproduced by anyone creative person- This is a print from an ordinary polyethylene film on wet plaster applied to the wall. In this case, your imagination also doesn’t have to be limited, since the film can be used unfolded or rolled into a roller, or simply crumpled up randomly. In addition, you can come up with your own version of using this material, since, achieving the desired pattern, you can safely experiment with the solution and film.
	When removing the film after it has been pressed against the wet plaster, it will inevitably pull the solution along with it, and as a result, peculiar relief protrusions are formed, which can be smoothed out with a spatula or trowel. Using this method of creating decorative plaster, you can use a tinted solution, or paint it after the wall has dried after applying the relief.
	Quite popular for decorating both internal and external surfaces of walls is such a textured pattern as “bark beetle”. For this purpose it is used special composition plaster, which includes hard stone fractions measuring 1.5÷3 mm. This solution is applied using a metal trowel, and it can be distributed on the surface in different directions, depending on what kind of relief is intended to be obtained. When applying plaster, hard fractions leave behind furrows that imitate damage to the surface by insects. These recessed stripes can be located vertically, horizontally, diagonally, in the form of a semicircle or entire circles - the direction of the relief pattern will depend on the preference of the master and the intended design.
	A frequently used tool for applying relief is a roller, which leaves a textured pattern on the wall surface. This method of recreating volume can be used by any homeowner, even those who have never done plastering work before. It is enough to purchase a roller with the relief you like on its rubber nozzle and leave an imprint on the fresh solution applied to the wall. The choice of attachments is so large that they can be selected to suit any, even the most sophisticated taste. If desired, you can make a roller attachment yourself, using pieces of foam rubber, twisted coarse rope, plastic film, fur, fabric with deep relief or other materials that can leave the necessary impression on wet plaster.
	If you plan to create the correct floral pattern on the walls, in the form of grass and leaves of different shapes and sizes, then a roller with such a pattern will have to be purchased ready-made. Work on decorating walls using this technique goes quite quickly, since there will be no failures in the process - the plaster mixture is applied and distributed to the surface with a spatula, and while it remains wet, a roller is passed over it, which will leave the selected pattern on the surface.
	And this is a completely simple method that does not require special expenses for purchasing a tool for reproducing the relief. For the finishing process, a regular flat brush with soft or hard bristles is used, depending on how clear the pattern is planned to be obtained. The relief is recreated using the same principle as when using a spatula with a notched comb - using fresh plaster applied to the wall.
	Another technique of decorative plaster, not performed over the entire surface of the wall, but only in certain areas. The background for it can be one of the above-described types of shallow relief. The panels are usually made from gypsum plaster mortar. The composition is applied in slides to the marked area of ​​the wall according to the pattern and left to dry. After drying, cutting tools are used - this can be a knife, cutters of various shapes and a spatula - with their help, the desired shapes are created. In addition to the cutters, you will need sandpaper with fine and medium grains, which will be used to smooth out the cut out elements of the three-dimensional pattern. In order not to spoil the wall, it is recommended to experiment by creating a small panel or its individual parts on a plywood sheet. Only after making sure that everything works out can you proceed to reproducing the intended relief design on the wall.

In addition to those listed above, there are other objects that can be used to create relief designs on the surface of the wall. For this purpose, not only professional tools are widely used, but also improvised devices or even fragments of plants, for example, tree leaves or branches of various thicknesses.

Painting decorative plaster

As mentioned above, you can buy colored decorative plaster in construction stores, but working with it is much more difficult, since it is necessary to reproduce all the complex ones with one color. Therefore, most often a white plaster mixture is chosen, which, after final drying, is covered with selected shades, which significantly expands the creative possibilities of the home craftsman.

In addition to applying color to a finished relief wall, there is another technique for creating a colored surface. In this option, before applying it, a certain color is added to the white plaster, and then a relief on the wall is made from material of different shades. This is a rather complex technique, and a professional artist or a person with the appropriate talent can handle it. Therefore, the best option remains to paint the finished relief.

Usually, for painting decorative plaster, water-based paints are used, to which is added desired color. When choosing a color, it is recommended to make it one or two shades darker, since when the paint dries, it will lighten.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The most used technique when giving relief plaster a color is to cover it with a light tone of the selected shade. This coloring will become unifying for the entire composition. The paint is applied to the entire surface using a roller, after squeezing it on the ribbed surface of the paint tray. If the relief has a depth of more than 5 mm, then a long-haired roller is used to tint it, or especially deep fragments are tinted with a soft brush.
	The first paint layer is applied in one go, otherwise the coloring will turn out uneven. Therefore, if the paint is tinted yourself, you need to mix it enough so that it is enough for the first layer for all the walls in the room, or at least for one wall, but always for its entire area. This is especially important if the surfaces will be painted with one color without additional shades or stains. Coloring is carried out different ways, depending on the depth of the relief and the desired end result.
	One of the options for uneven coloring is done using a sponge. Then they walk over the still wet painted surface. soft cloth or with a dry sponge, barely touching the protruding elements of the relief. This execution technique is aimed at enhancing the “depth of space” of the relief not only with the help of volume, but also with the use of color play.
	This method of finishing decoration consists of two stages - painting and cleaning the protruding relief elements with sandpaper. The first step is to paint the entire area of ​​the walls with a common color - this process can be carried out using a roller or spray. The second stage is carried out after the paint has completely dried. Fine-grained sandpaper is installed on a construction float, after which the tool is used to go over the protruding parts of the relief. In this way, the paint is removed or lightened from the surface, thereby revealing a three-dimensional pattern. If desired, the cleaned surfaces can be coated with paint that is close in tone to the main color, darker or lighter, depending on the effect you want to achieve. Usually a light shade is chosen, as it visually increases the volume of the relief.
	A relief panel can only be made to an experienced master, but you can try to paint it yourself. However, you need to take into account that this process is quite complicated and time-consuming, since it will have to be done with thin brushes, so the work will take quite a lot of time. It is recommended to cover the finished relief plaster panel with a primer, dry it, and only then begin painting. Don't take clean ones bright colors, since the terrain behind them will not be visible. Therefore, they are diluted to shades of the chosen color or a certain amount is added to white paint.
	In this option for painting decorative plaster, two colors are used - one is the main one, and the second is an auxiliary one, which will highlight the relief pattern. The work is carried out in two stages. Firstly, the entire surface is covered with one, primary color. This process can be carried out with a roller, wide brush or spray. Then this layer should be well dried. The second stage consists of applying paint using tangential movements to the protruding parts of the relief using a soft brush, a foam sponge or a mitten worn on the hand. The applied paint should be thick enough and the brush or sponge should be dry.

Video: an interesting example of painting a wall finished with relief plaster

The final stage of work on decorative plaster is coating the walls with varnish or wax. This process must be carried out carefully, since applying the final layer carelessly can ruin the entire job.

In conclusion, I would like to say that if you have little or no experience in performing decorative plastering, then it is not recommended to choose overly complex design techniques. In the same case, when a specific design is selected and the decision is made to reproduce it on the wall at all costs, you should carefully study the instructions and practice on a small section of the wall or a plywood panel.

Video: demonstration of various techniques for applying and decorating decorative plasters

“Versailles plaster”: a technology accessible to everyone - step by step

In the final section, as an example, we will consider the design of the wall of the so-called “ Versailles plaster" In the proposed finishing technology, instead of plaster composition, two types of putty are used - starting and finishing, which allows you to save a decent amount on finishing. In addition, the advantage of this method of original decorative wall decoration is that even a novice master can do it. The main thing is to buy quality material and use it correctly.

In addition to the two types of putty, to obtain the desired result, you will need “Quartz-primer” for application to the wall under the decorative cladding, which creates increased adhesion between the materials and also prevents the putty from drying too quickly. The presence of this material is a prerequisite for decorating a wall using this technology.

In order for the plaster layer to turn out aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to purchase two more components, without which the desired effect will not be achieved.

This is, firstly, a decorative paint coating of the “Adagio Silver” type - on an acrylic binder, containing small metal particles of various shapes. Gives a very interesting iridescent effect, giving the wall a silky look.

Secondly, so-called glitter is used, consisting of tiny particles of polyester film of various shapes. This component is also added to one of the layers of decorative wall trim.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is to mix the model mass, consisting of starting and finishing putty in a 1:1 ratio. Mixing proceeds as follows: Part of the starting putty and part of the finishing putty are poured into a container with water in turn, then the sequence is repeated, and so on until the required amount of dry mixture is poured. If necessary, add a little water to the bucket, and then mix the mass using a mixer attachment. Next, the finished solution is left for 10-12 minutes - this time is necessary for it to “ripen”. After this time, the mass is mixed again until smooth. It should be mixed very well and have a medium-thick consistency, that is, not particularly liquid and not thick.
	The finished putty composition is applied to the prepared, leveled, treated with “Quartz-soil” and dried wall surface. If the mass will not be applied from the ceiling, but below, along a broken line on the wall, then it is recommended to first stick masking tape along it, which will help leave the upper part of the wall clean and keep the upper border of the decorative finish even. Work starts from the top line. First of all, the putty mixture is distributed along the masking tape.
	The applied layer should have a thickness of 2÷3 mm. Particular attention should be paid to filling the joints of the planes, for example, if the putty will be applied from the ceiling line. The mixture is applied to the wall with a trowel in a relatively even layer. This work can also be done with a spatula having a width of 300÷350 mm. It should be noted that in this finishing option you don’t have to try too hard, leveling the solution to perfect smoothness, the main thing is that the layer of material has the same thickness over the entire plane of the wall and is fairly even. The smoother the putty layer, the easier it will be to see flaws in the relief pattern.
	An even facing layer is applied to a height of 1000÷1500 mm from the top down the wall. Then a relief pattern is formed on the wet putty. For this, a plastic trowel with a pointed plate in front is used - it is shaped like an iron. Work starts from the corners or the top line of the wall. The master makes wave-like movements, stretching the mass, while simultaneously creating a chaotic pattern in the form of stripes running in different directions. With the help of a trowel, the mass is lifted above the surface, creating a larger volume of decorative coating and leaving behind grooves of different widths, most often located diagonally on the surface. The convenience of creating a relief in this way is that the design applied to the solution can always be corrected if the master does not like it in some way.
	Having worked out the first batch of putty, and having reached approximately the middle of the wall in height, the next portion of the solution is prepared. During this time, the mass applied to the wall will have time to set. Therefore, many craftsmen have the problem of combining the plastered area of ​​the wall with the already set mortar and the fresh, just mixed mass, which will be applied below. The joint between the two areas of the wall should be completely invisible.
	In order for the combination to take place neatly and become completely unnoticeable, a fresh solution is applied overlapping the already applied layer by 150÷200 mm, and then the overall layer is smoothed out. This process must be carried out along the entire line of combining two zones - upper and lower.
	The overlap line needs to be smoothed out well, and then a general relief pattern must be applied to it.
	Applying the relief begins from the area where the design has already been applied. It turns out that it is, as it were, “picked up” with a trowel and extended onto an evenly applied unifying putty layer along its entire length.
	When combining two zones of the wall, it is important to ensure that there are no deep dents or clearly even stripes from the trowel left on it. Such defects must be smoothed out and these areas given a general relief, since they will be especially noticeable in these areas. When working on a connecting line, it is recommended to step aside and inspect the work area from a distance. This way you can more clearly identify shortcomings and correct them immediately.
	Then, the model mass is applied to the entire lower part of the wall in an even layer, and a relief is formed on it in exactly the same way. When the wall is completely covered with this primary layer of putty with the applied relief, it is left to dry completely for two days.
	When the wall dries, they go over its surface with a spatula, with which it is necessary to clean the protruding sharp edges of the relief strips, since they should be rounded.
	Then, the entire surface is treated with a construction trowel, with sandpaper No. 60 installed on it. Grouting is carried out with slight pressure, in a counterclockwise circular motion.
	After processing, you should get a relief surface with smoothed protruding edges of the pattern. An additional check of the surface, that is, its smoothness, can be done by running your palm over it. If untreated areas are found that scratch the palm, then this flaw must be corrected immediately. The treated surface must be thoroughly cleaned of putty dust - this process is carried out using a soft, wide brush or broom.
	The next step is to treat the surface with a deep penetration primer. The primer is applied with a roller with a nap attachment. The composition must be well distributed over the wall, collecting all the formed smudges. This layer dries in 1.5÷2 hours.
	Next, it is taken White paint water-based, a color of the selected shade is added to it (in this case, the master used beige dye), and the mass is mixed well until smooth. The paint should be applied easily and not be too thick, therefore, if necessary, the solution should be diluted to the desired consistency with water. The relatively liquid composition of the paint, when applied to the wall, will become translucent, which, in combination with other layers of different shades, will create the illusion of space.
	The paint is first applied to the edge of the wall using a brush, and then the main part of the surface is tinted using a nap roller. It distributes the mass well over the relief surface, filling all the recesses of the design with paint, and when rolling out the composition, it collects its excess. As a result, the surface should be neat and evenly painted, free of smudges. After the entire surface is covered with the tinting composition, it is left until completely dry. Water-based paint applied in a thin layer will take about two hours to dry.
	Next, a composition made from a regular primer and “silver” - the “Adagio Silver” dye – is applied to the surface using a foam roller. The mixture is prepared in a 1:1 ratio, that is, in this case the master took 250 × 250 grams of these materials. The resulting mixture should have a fairly thick consistency and should not leak at all. The mass is applied to the wall without pressure, so that only the upper protruding elements of the relief are covered. The recesses should not be painted with this composition.
	The mixture is carefully rolled out over the entire surface of the wall, highlighting the relief with color.
	Next, you will need to prepare a finishing composition that will transform the wall surface beyond recognition. It consists of a water-based varnish and a small amount of glitter. The varnish is diluted with water, in proportions of approximately 1:3, and mixed well. The addition of water is necessary to ensure that a hard, uneven, glossy crust does not form on the surface of the wall after coating it.
	A small amount of glitter is added to the varnish, about a tablespoon per 0.5 liter of composition. Then the solution is thoroughly mixed by vigorous shaking. Before you start shaking, the lid of the container with the composition must be tightly closed.
	Next, the finished varnish composition is applied to the relief plaster using a foam roller and is well distributed by rolling it over the wall surface. Having completed this stage of work, the finishing can be considered complete. All that remains is to wait for the wall surface to dry, and then remove the masking tape enclosing the wall.
	The last illustration shows the result of this rather lengthy work on the design of the wall. But, you must admit, the technology is not so complicated, and the resulting finish looks very original.

From the author: Hello, dear readers. One thing happened in my family not long ago interesting story. It all started when my wife's parents started renovations. Her father worked all his life as a physics teacher and, as you understand, did not understand repair issues at all. Well, he and his wife decided to move away from ordinary wallpaper and beautifully plaster the walls. He did not understand how to apply decorative plaster, and his pride did not allow him to contact me. As a result, not knowing how to do it, he ruined everything.

Ultimately, my mother-in-law turned to me, and together we redid everything, but this did not change the situation. After all, we had to spend several times more not only time, but also money. So, friends, do not make such mistakes, read and remember everything that we tell you today, otherwise you cannot avoid alterations.

Types of mixtures and compositions

To understand our question today, first of all you need to find out what types of decorative plasters exist, what results to expect, and how to work with different compositions. Believe me, the variety is so great that without certain knowledge in this matter, you will simply buy something that is not what you really need. And, therefore, you will either overpay, or you will have to redo it, because everything will fall off after a while.

We will start our acquaintance with what it is. In fact, this can be called any type of it, with the help of which you can give a certain relief, structure or texture. By the way, this does not have to be any specific composition, it can even be ordinary cement mortar or putty.

Very often in stores you can find mixtures for finishing a wall like a fur coat or for creating some kind of texture. But in fact, if we are not talking about working in particularly damp rooms or on the facades of a building, to create such an effect it will be enough to use ordinary putty.

So, all types of plasters are divided into three large groups; we will list them with some explanation.

Textured

Otherwise it is called relief. Most often sold in the form of a dry mixture, it gives the surface some decorative unevenness. The relief can be created through the use of a specialized tool or by adding special ingredients to the mixture, such as wood chips, pieces of mica, multi-colored marble, pebbles.

There is also a variety of fibrous structure, here flax, cotton, reed shingles or chopped bamboo are added. In general, there are hundreds of different types; the filling depends on what filler the manufacturer had freely available. It is best to use such compositions when it is necessary to hide wall defects, that is, curvature and waviness.

If you wish, you can even imitate natural stone or tree bark. Textured plaster, in turn, is divided into four main types:

• arbitrary relief. It leaves some chaotic bulges and depressions on the surface. This is done with a regular spatula or trowel. That is, immediately after applying the plaster to the wall, take a spatula, and with arbitrary movements the surface is given the texture of streaks and differences;
• lamb - plaster with the addition of round pebbles or small crushed stone, and the percentage of this material is such that after application the surface of the layer slightly resembles curly round curls. This coating looks extremely interesting;
• The bark beetle is a favorite folk ornament; you can’t call it anything else. Used more often than any other coating. Bark beetle is used to decorate both indoor walls and building facades. The composition of the mixture is the most common, only some fraction is added to it. When the plaster is applied with a spatula or a rule, coarse particles, clinging to it, leave behind small grooves, which from the outside looks as if the wall was covered with a woodworm;
• fur coat is the most common type of facade decoration. Especially a few decades ago it was very fashionable. So you understand, this is an ordinary plaster mixture, but it is applied to the walls with a special machine that looks like a snail, inside of which rubber blocks are held on an axis. When the axis of rotation is applied using the handle, the rubber blocks capture the mixture that we place there. When it meets the pin in front of the ejection window, the rubber bends, pulls back and seems to “shoot” the mixture that is stuck to it. The result is a surface reminiscent of the lining of a sheepskin coat.

Structural

Here the relief is a purely visual effect, although there may be some surface unevenness. Typically, such plaster is made on the basis of acrylic or silicates, this allows you to add various chemically active elements to the compositions, which, after drying, give the surface some kind of internal structure.

It is applied in a thin, smooth layer, it is not given any relief, and after drying the pattern begins to be visible. From a distance it may resemble marble or other stone. A beautiful color may simply appear with streaks that will resemble a cut of wood. Or there will just be bright colors with patterns.

There is only one, the brightest, representative of the species that stands out against the general background of this pretty “daub” - a specially cracked mixture. That is, you apply it like this, but after it dries, the entire surface becomes covered with a hundred cracks, then it is varnished or painted. It looks very impressive.

The layer turns out to be breathable, so the walls after this treatment “breathe” freely and do not leak. This coating has only one drawback: due to its base, application is accompanied by a pungent odor, which takes a long time to dissipate, so it is not particularly recommended for bedrooms and children's rooms.

Venetian

The queen of all decorative plasters. In 95% of cases it is a perfectly flat, smooth, glossy surface. The coating consists of many layers, ranging from 5-6 in ordinary cases and ending with 25 in expensive designer premises, where a surface with a special visible depth is required.

The “wow” effect is huge, because the surface imitates polished marble or a similar stone, which can be given gloss, for example, onyx. The main difference from marble tiles is that you get not individual squares, but a marble mass, which looks much more expensive. The structure and composition of the mixture is such that the walls can be literally made of gold; this is achieved by adding gold leaf or special powders and dyes to the deep layers.

The production of such a surface takes an extremely long time, so the cost of such work is very, very high. So that you understand, a competent specialist will charge you the same amount as a used foreign car for finishing a room with dimensions of 3x5 meters. Therefore, such walls require the strongest reinforced foundation.

The work on such finishing is so complex that in 99% of cases it is impossible to do it yourself. It requires not only enormous experience and skill, but also the use of a variety of tools, which a true master collects throughout his life. This is a hundred different spatulas, trowels, paint palettes and the like.

Of course, such a coating is only suitable for rooms with antique classic style. As you understand, these do not come in two by two sizes.

In all my practice, I have met only one such master, and he was engaged in the manufacture of kitchen aprons. So, one such apron with dimensions of 0.8 meters by 6 meters took him two weeks of work. Although the result fully justified all the money spent on it.

Specific

This class contains:

• colored - acrylic base with the addition of pigments, marble dust, shells and pebbles. The surface turns out to be multi-colored, like a Christmas tree. Of course, you can’t decorate a bedroom like this, except maybe the hallway;
• patterned - plaster with a varied base and mineral fraction, applied with an ordinary spatula or trowel, but the final relief is given with a special roller, after which patterns are formed on the wall. They can be in the form of antique curls or some leaves;
• latex - sold only in finished form, and after it is correctly applied, a surface is formed that slightly resembles Venetian plaster. This coating is durable, not afraid of water, does not crack and is applied only to a pre-reinforced smooth wall;
• wet silk - designer delights that cost incredible amounts of money. The composition is most often acrylic, so this mixture is sold only ready-made. The composition contains various pearlescent particles, which, after proper application and polishing, begin to shimmer, resembling “flowing” silk fabric from a distance;
• sea ​​breeze - here the final layer is almost transparent, and under it, again, you can see pearlescent particles. Taken together, it looks like a film of water, and as we all know, you have to pay a pretty penny for individuality and beauty.

All of the above compositions can be prepared on a different basis. It is the base that gives those properties that should be a basic priority for us, because it depends on them where the plaster can be used, where it is necessary, and where it is simply irrational. Therefore, in order not to get into trouble when choosing, we need to have a clear idea of ​​what class of premises we have to work in, and what kind of foundation is required for this. They are of the following types:

• acrylic - a mixture of various molecular polymers, resins and pigments. As a result, the composition is elastic, non-cracking, and interacts well with various alkyd and acrylic paints. One of the advantages is that compositions with such a base do not allow water to pass through and are ideal for facades, bathrooms and kitchens. There is only one huge drawback: the walls lose their ability to breathe, so you need to use such compounds wisely and not cover insulated walls or drywall with mineral wool underneath;
• mineral - this foundation does not have such problems, it is natural, absorbs moisture and perfectly releases it into the surrounding space. Usually there are only two types: gypsum and cement, which is why it costs several orders of magnitude cheaper than acrylic. It is the most common plastering material due to its versatility. So, if we need water-repellent properties, cement is used, and if this is not necessary, then gypsum is used. Sold only in crumbly form;
• silicone - synthetic resins plus pigments, fillers and hardeners. A very pliable and elastic mixture that does not allow water to pass through. Excellent for finishing swimming pools and bathrooms, but of course costs accordingly. Sold only in finished form, in buckets;
• silicate - just armor, consists of liquid glass, quartz sand, hardeners and dyes. The most durable of all existing ones, it is not afraid of mold and fungi, and does not rot. It repels water like a shield even in complete immersion. If you need something very durable, then this is exactly the case, because the warranty period for such a surface is 50 years or more.

Finally, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that all decorative plaster mixtures are not a way to repair a surface. That is, such mixtures cannot be used to repair or level. They are applied without beacons to a pre-treated wall.

That is, if you, for example, have a shell or brickwork, then you won’t be able to treat it with such compounds and that’s it. Whatever one may say, first you will have to apply a layer of ordinary plaster, and do it along the beacons. And only then, when you tear out the beacons and it dries, you can start decorating. Otherwise, you will spend an unrealistic amount on repairs.

Well, that’s all, friends, this is the end of the biggest section of the article. Now you know everything you can about decorative primers for walls , and where you should apply which one, based on the basis and properties. And now further.

Selection of tools and materials

It's time to talk about what you'll need to cover your walls with this wonderful material. And I’ll tell you this: do not underestimate this point, since work on such plaster should be carried out quickly and in one layer. If in the middle of a task you are missing something from a tool, it will be extremely unpleasant.

So, to carry out the work without incidents and delays, prepare everything according to the following list:

• a trowel, or, as the common people call it, a malka, is necessary to smooth out the applied layer and give it additional evenness;
• trowel for spreading the mixture. If this is not the case, then an ordinary small spatula about 10 cm in size will suit you;
• wide spatula - if you have to work with gypsum mixtures, then you definitely cannot do without this. And here's another thing, if you apply structural plaster, then you will need quality tool, because the applied layer must be even. The usual, cheapest spatula with a black handle is not suitable for these purposes. The blade thickness of these ranges from 0.5 to 0.8 mm. This is fraught with the fact that when you move a layer of mortar along the wall, such a soft flexible spatula bends along with each bump. And it turns out that you are not leveling the wall, but simply repeating its relief, but on a different surface. If you want to actually level the wall with liquid plaster mixtures, then you need a good, high-quality spatula with a short but thick blade. It copes well with all flaws, does not bend or repeat defects. Of course, such a tool is good, but it also costs quite a lot;
• rule - it is needed for the same thing as a spatula. The difference is that the rule applies when working with thick plaster mixtures, and spatulas with thinner ones. Of course, you can also work with liquid ones as a rule, but it will be extremely inconvenient, I would even say difficult, so try not to torture your hands and use the tool for its intended purpose;
• bucket for mixing the solution;
• perforator or special mixer. Stirrer (or, as it should be said, construction mixer) - a phenomenon in everyday life that is quite rare. Therefore, if you have a three-position hammer drill, then all you need to do is buy the appropriate attachment for it, and then you will not have problems with mixing the solution. If you have a modern impact drill or a simple drill at your disposal, then you cannot rely on it. And you shouldn’t spoil it with such actions, because mixing plaster solutions means work with increased loads on the tool’s rotor, and these parts of household drills are too weak, they cannot withstand such work and burn out;
• a beater whisk is the same attachment that you will use to knead;
• roller and paint tray - for paint or the like;
• grater for final polishing.

That's all with the tool, and now it's time to talk about the material that we will need. Don’t think I’m not talking about plaster, but about the components accompanying its application. There are few of them, but they still require attention:

• actually the mixture itself, about which we have already found out everything;
• deep penetration primer - to improve the adhesive properties of surfaces, that is, to ensure that the old and new plaster adhere well to each other;
• concrete contact. If we have to work on a smooth surface - such as paint, for example - we simply cannot do without such a primer. It allows you to apply the solution to a smooth surface only after it has been primed, without any preliminary cutting with an ax or removal with a hair dryer;
• fixing primer - if you intend to use gypsum mixtures, then after all the work is completed, it is necessary to treat the surface with a special fixing compound. It will eliminate such unpleasant incidents from your life as white marks on clothes if you touch the walls, and will also get rid of constant dust;
• UV-resistant primer - if you plan to paint the wall, then after all the work you will have to treat the surface with a composition that will prevent the pigment from fading. If this is not done, then after just one sunny summer you will have to repaint the walls;
• varnish - if you need to give the surface additional resistance to water and gloss, you will have to treat it with varnish. We will talk about what they are and how to use them in other articles on our website.

This is the end of the material. We are one step closer to the climax of the article, let's move on.

Preparation of walls and premises

Now it's time for action, and, as with any finishing work, we'll start with preparation. The level of labor costs directly depends on the condition of the base coating. If you have nothing at all, that is, bare masonry, then everything is not so rosy and you will have to spend much more time and money.

If you have at least some plaster, then everything is fine. Let's look more specifically at what actions await you in terms of preparation:

1. The first step is to clear the room of all unnecessary things: furniture, shelves, household appliances. If there is something too heavy to lift - for example, a piano - then we simply move it to the center and cover it with film so as not to get dirty or dusty.
2. If the room has a good floor that you do not plan to redo, then it is worth covering it too. Because the work ahead of us is dirty, and we will definitely get it dirty. Plaster mixtures often contain alkali, and when it gets on the surface of paint or something else and stays there for a long time, it corrodes it.
3. If metal-plastic windows are installed, cover them with film along with the frames. I have had cases when concrete contact got on the glass, I did not attach any importance to it and it dried out. And then you had to ruin the glass in order to remove it. This is such an “ardent” thing that it eats into everything, be careful.
4. We unscrew the sockets and remove the switch housings; we insulate the exposed live parts, having previously removed the voltage from them.
5. If the walls are “bare”, that is, the stone is not plastered, then it’s time to do ordinary cement or gypsum plaster on the beacons. Detailed instructions on how to do this are on our website.
6. If you have gone through all this, or you already had them coated, all that remains is to treat them with a deep penetration primer. And if there are painted or any other smooth surfaces, we apply concrete contact.

With everything prepared, we move on to the main work.

Application

Let's get to the fun part, and let me tell you, this work is not at all difficult and does not take much time. And all because we work with already prepared walls and don’t think about the need to level them. Our task is to apply a layer without worrying too much about its evenness.

Even if you are applying a structural material, although it requires a flat surface, if you make some mistakes, you will not spoil anything. Any structure is such that no flaws will be visible on it. Now let’s look at how this coating is applied point by point.

That's all, readers. As you can see, everything is easy and simple. You just need to know well what mixture to cover, and the process itself is trivial. I hope you liked the article. In conclusion, I would only like to say that it is not an installation instruction, it is just an introduction to the topic. So remember, you alone bear any responsibility for your actions. And here’s another thing: reading and hearing is good, but seeing it with your own eyes is even better, so it would be a good idea for you to watch a video on the topic. Good luck!

A good and justified reason for pride is decorative plaster with your own hands. This is also an opportunity to emphasize the individuality of a home or room interior. There are a variety of materials on the market with which you can realize your wildest, most incredible fantasies. The great advantage of this method of decorating a house or apartment is the ability to create a unique pattern. Even with similar materials it is difficult to create the same finish on different walls, and given the wide selection of options offered, it is quite easy to achieve the uniqueness of your home.

Types of decorative plaster

Before deciding on such a finish, you should find out what decorative plaster is? This is a decorative wall covering that creates a certain artistic effect. Depending on the method by which it is achieved, plaster is divided into two types:

• structural - the decorative layer is formed due to the composition of the mixture, various additives (granules, fibers, etc.), used for finishing facades and interior decoration;
• textured - is the result of the work and artistic imagination of the master.

Of course, such a division is conditional. You should not think that it is enough to simply apply and smear structural plaster on the wall and you can get a masterpiece. It's the same with textured look By spraying a cement “coat” with a broom onto the wall of the barn, in essence, they create a texture. But the aesthetic value of such “art” is extremely low.

To create a high-quality, beautiful covering on the walls, you need appropriate materials, tools, and knowledge of the basic basics of work. To apply decorative plaster with your own hands, a steady hand and good taste will also help. .

Mineral plaster

This is the most common plaster, the binding element of which is cement (gray or white) or gypsum. Basically, mineral plaster consists of natural ingredients. However, in recent years, more and more different additives (polymers, fibers, etc.) have been used. Widely used for both exterior decoration of buildings and interior work.

One of the advantages of mineral plaster is vapor permeability. Due to its high alkalinity, it is characterized by high resistance to the formation of fungus and mold. However, it has low elasticity, which can cause cracks to form on the surface. As a rule, mineral plaster is white or gray. However, it can be painted according to personal preferences.

To protect yourself from unaesthetic stains on the façade or interior wall, if suddenly the paint is damaged and a different color appears underneath, you should use paint-painted plaster (colored). At the same time, it is worth considering that the range of colors of plaster is limited.

Acrylic plaster

The most popular type of plaster, which combines high quality with a reasonable price. Acrylic plaster is also highly resistant to mechanical damage. The color lasts for a long time without the need for touch-ups. This decorative plaster is used for walls inside and outside buildings.

The disadvantage of this type of plaster is that the acrylic dispersion is a breeding ground for microorganisms, as a result of which, after a few years, pigment spots in colors ranging from green and blue to black may appear on the surface of the plaster.

To prevent this, manufacturers offer immunization packages for decorative plaster against mold and mildew (biocides). Contaminated acrylic plaster can be saved. However, this comes with additional costs.

The facades of houses located in places of high humidity (near seas, lakes, rivers, ponds), near large concentrations of trees (forests, parks), in rural areas and interior rooms with high humidity are most susceptible to the formation of fungus. In such places, other types of plasters, painted in the paste, are recommended. It is worth adding that decorative acrylic plaster, given its low vapor permeability, should not be used for plastering mineral wool.

Silicate plaster

Silicate plasters are produced on the basis of potassium liquid glass. Due to this, their resistance to the formation of fungus or mold is very high - it is ideal in places where decorative acrylic plaster will be subject to intense corrosion and biological effects. The cost of this type of plaster is slightly higher compared to acrylic counterparts.

With appropriate flexibility, silicate plaster has a significantly lower coefficient of diffusion resistance against moisture vapor. It follows that it works well in a thermal insulation system using mineral wool.

In addition, it is more impervious to dirt and has high color fastness (provided that the manufacturer used exclusively high-quality mineral pigments during the painting process). The disadvantages of this type of plaster include a small palette of colors ready-made plasters, as well as its application during DIY repairs - it requires a significant level of skill.

Silicone plaster

Without a doubt, the best and most expensive type of plaster. Combines the advantages of high elasticity, hydrophobicity, with low diffusion resistance. In addition, it is extremely resistant to biological corrosion, mechanical damage and contamination. The price is high, but no matter how much it costs, it matches the quality.

Mosaic plasters

Mosaic plasters are often called “pebble” plasters because of the stone grain they contain (marble, granite, quartz chips). These are decorative thin layer plasters, that is, those that are applied in layers with a thickness of filler contained in the mass, usually from 1 to 3 mm. The basis of mosaic plasters is transparent acrylic resin. Compared to other decorative mixtures used in construction, they are more flexible and more resistant to damage.

They withstand cleaning without problems - you can wash them frequently without the risk of damage. They can be used to cover areas subject to mechanical stress and pollution, both for interior wall decoration and outside buildings.

Currently, manufacturers of insulation systems offer, in addition to the four types listed, hybrid plasters, for example, acrylic-silicone or silicate-silicone. It is a mixture of different types of plasters, created to combine their different properties.

A separate group can be divided into plasters, which, due to historical prerequisites or technological (geographical) features, fall somewhat out of the general range and even have their own names.

1. Venetian - decorative plaster for interior decoration is made on the basis of lime or lime-gypsum mortar with the addition of marble, granite dust or other stones. It can be made on the basis of various synthetic binders. As a rule, ready-made mixtures are sold (diluted and prepared for use), and can also be purchased in the form of ready-made dry mixtures. Its surface is perfectly smooth and slightly glossy. To achieve a good effect, it is necessary to apply up to five (sometimes ten) layers to the wall, which is a labor-intensive process that requires special skills and patience. It is difficult to do such artistic plaster with your own hands without sufficient experience.
2. Japanese plaster is a decorative finishing material that can be applied to the surfaces of walls and ceilings. Something between plaster and wallpaper. Do-it-yourself decorative plaster of walls made with this material is the easiest to work with. Contains cotton, silk, cellulose fibers, mineral fibers, dyes and various decorative additions. The coating made from it hides all wall defects well. Almost any type of walls and ceilings is suitable for this plaster: concrete, wet plaster or paint, walls lined with plasterboard, wood, polystyrene foam and much more.
3. Travertine is an exclusive material for finishing work, created on the basis of natural binders and marble powder, and is used both in interiors and exteriors. Most often for decoration: walls, ceilings, fireplaces, columns, etc. Due to the resistance of this coating to fungus and mold, as well as its ability to diffuse moisture from the base, it can be used in kitchens and bathrooms. The finishing made by him successfully imitates natural travertine, along with its original structure and patterns. This material consists of natural lime binders, aggregates, marble and dolomite chips. After finishing the walls with decorative travertine plaster, they are coated with special wax or varnish. To protect surfaces located on outdoors, appropriate soils are used to protect them from the effects of adverse weather conditions.
4. Tadelakt is an exotic plaster of “Moroccan origin”. This is a waterproof plaster surface used for finishing bathtubs, sinks, ponds, interior and exterior walls, and ceilings. It is made from a lime plaster base that is compacted, polished and treated with soap to make it waterproof and water-repellent. Tadelakt is a labor-intensive material to work with, but very remarkable - it has a “living”, wavy structure. Pigment can be added to give it any color, but dark red is considered traditional. It can be shiny or matte, but looks best when it resembles a stone with a velvety sheen.

French plasters from various manufacturers are widely known. With their help, you can create various structures - from the effect of an adobe wall to surfaces that accurately imitate polished stone.

Finishing with decorative plaster

Artistic plastering of walls can be done independently. To do this, you need to prepare the tools and be patient.

Tool

When applying structural plasters, you need to use several basic tools, which are usually used when plastering works And special devices to create the desired texture on the surface. The tool set looks like this:

• container for plaster mass;
• a set of spatulas from the smallest to the widest;
• graters - metal (Venetian), wooden, plastic;
• metal grater;
• electric drill with mixer attachment;
• trowel (trowel);
• masking tape.

You should also prepare rollers of different widths and with different piles, sponges, wide brushes, and templates with patterns.

To apply decorative plaster with your own hands, you can use many other somewhat less professional accessories available in the house. For example, a regular comb or brush can be used to create the texture of denim or corduroy. Striped patterns are obtained through the use of children's (toy) rakes. Even with your own palm, “armed” only with a glove, you can create original patterns on walls covered with decorative plaster. Also sometimes used various devices for automatic application of structural plasters.

You should finish finishing a section of the wall that can be completed in one day, preferably from corner to corner. If you leave half the wall unfinished and continue the next day, you will create a joint that is impossible to get rid of. If this is not feasible (the wall is too large), then seal the joint with masking tape - this will disguise it a little.

Preparation

The base for thin-layer structural plaster must be strong, free of grease and dry; free from stains and efflorescence of biological and chemical origin. All loose layers not connected to the base (for example, peeling plaster) must be removed. If the surface unevenness is significant (from 5 to 15 mm), the wall should first be leveled. Wet plaster can be used for this.

For small unevenness (up to 5 mm), the base can be leveled and smoothed with a layer of putty. Absorbent substrates should be primed with a suitable preparation before applying leveling solutions and/or putty. The application of mortars, putties and/or compensatory measures must be carried out in accordance with the technical data sheets of these products. In the case of applying the mass to newly completed mineral substrates (for example, concrete, cement and cement-lime wet plaster), an appropriate curing period must be observed (for acrylic and mineral plasters at least 3-4 weeks, and for silicate plaster at least 2 weeks). Before applying the solution, the base should be primed with a preparation appropriate for this type of plaster. To limit the possibility of the color of the base showing through the texture of the plaster, it is recommended to use a primer that matches the color of the plaster.

The final result of the completed plaster may be affected by the type of base, therefore, in the case of a non-uniform base, it is recommended to cover the entire surface with a layer of putty. To avoid color differences, it is necessary to complete the surface in one working cycle, using the “wet on wet” method. During application and drying of the solution, the temperature should be kept between 5°C and 25°C.

Application

How to apply decorative plaster with your own hands? The process does not cause any particular difficulties, but some subtleties are worth taking into account. Using a drill with a mixer installed, the solution is mixed exactly in the appropriate proportions (specified by the manufacturer) with water or other additives, dyes, for example, pigments.

If a ready-made (diluted) mass is used, it is simply mixed. When the primer has dried, the prepared plaster is applied to the wall. You should try to do this evenly, keeping the layer thickness from 2 to 5 mm. The easiest way to do this is with a metal trowel.

To obtain an imitation of some natural surfaces, for example, marble, granite, travertine, concrete or velvet, you need to be patient. To achieve the desired effect, at least two layers of decorative plaster should often be applied. After applying each layer, the surface must also be subjected to additional processing. The technology for performing the work is different for each type.

When creating a surface for travertine, characteristic samples of this stone are purposefully formed, imitating pits and depressions. It is best to do them with the edge of a Venetian grater applied to the wall at an angle of 90 degrees. Then the surface should be leveled by sanding with sandpaper. Finally, the wall is covered with decorative varnish to secure and protect it.

To create a surface that imitates concrete, after applying the solution twice, it is successively “torn” and rubbed with a Venetian grater. The surface is moistened immediately before grouting, which makes it easier to give the desired structure.

The most difficult decorative plaster to do with your own hands is probably Venetian. After the wall has been prepared and the soil has dried, the solution is painted, since after purchase it has a natural White color. Pour the dye into it and mix thoroughly. Then they begin to apply it to the wall. The plaster is applied in stages, layer by layer, using a trowel.

Spread, pressing tightly, in a thin layer over the entire surface of the wall, then wait for the time indicated on the package. The dried layer is sanded, smoothing out irregularities. Then you need to clean the wall from dust, and then apply another layer. At this stage it is necessary to distribute the product so as to obtain a smooth, shiny surface. Wait until it dries again. Apply a third layer. The first layer is the base layer, the rest form a pattern, so they are applied in chaotic strokes and then smoothed out.

Each layer (there can be 5 or more) is sanded. Then you need to wait until it dries last layer, and apply wax. The wax is applied to a small fragment of the wall, after which it must be distributed over the remaining part.

The Japanese one can simply be leveled with a regular paint roller. In more detail, the contents of the package are filled with the required amount of water (according to the instructions indicated on the package) and mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained. The prepared plaster is left for an hour to be completely saturated with water.

No special tools are required to apply Japanese plaster. Just a grater, a roller and a spatula, which is used to apply the mass to the wall, stretching it evenly with a grater. The applied layer of material should be as thin as possible. Using a roller, compact the plaster, smooth it with a spatula and level the edges. The applied mass dries in about 48 hours.

Japanese plaster can be used several times. To do this, clean the applied layer of plaster after thoroughly moistening it first. Mix the skimmed mixture well, adding enough water to get the correct consistency. Apply again using a trowel and roller.

“Bark beetle” is essentially an ordinary wet plaster, the texture of which is formed by the granules it contains. The applied solution (preferably with a metal float) is leveled with a plastic float, forming a pattern. The most common - “rain” is obtained by moving the grater up and down. The type of wall depends solely on the imagination of the master; there are many options (right-left, “snowflake”, etc.). If the wall has been previously leveled, it is impossible to spoil the “bark beetle”.

An interesting option for interior work is magnetic plaster - it creates magnetized walls with decorative plaster. The method of application and painting is no different from ordinary gypsum plaster.

The application of decorative plaster is interestingly shown in the video:

Painting works

Most mixtures come already painted, but if this coating is not there, then it’s okay, painting walls covered with decorative plaster is practically no different from ordinary ones painting work. Painting is done in two layers with a long-nap roller, and in hard-to-reach places - with a brush.

It is advisable to adapt the selection of shades to the interior design, but you can forget about conventions and paint the walls in contrasting or flashy expressive colors - this will be an interesting artistic decoration. To decorate this type of surface, metallic paints with shine have proven themselves well, which, by reflecting light, additionally emphasize the elaborate texture of the wall. Paints can be applied either with a roller or brush, or with a sponge or cloth - in each case, obtaining a completely different end result.

So what is decorative plaster? In addition to aesthetic criteria, decorative plaster has high strength characteristics, it is easy to keep clean, so it is used almost everywhere. Ideal for high traffic areas such as stairwells, hallways, kitchens and bathrooms.

In addition, it is used for finishing figured architectural elements, for example, fireplaces, cornices, columns, as well as decorating furniture. Prepared and decorated accordingly, it can successfully decorate any building or interior.