Parquet is expensive and, most importantly, natural flooring. It is this naturalness that makes a wooden floor demanding, both in terms of installation, care and conditions for its maintenance.
Swelling or drying out of parquet in 90% of cases is a consequence of errors during its installation or improper operation.
Let's tell you about everything in more detail.
Why does parquet dry out or swell?
This happens because wood (even if it is a treated and varnished board) is a living material that reacts to many external factors and first of all - on moisture and humidity in the room.
When wood absorbs excess moisture, it swells. (Professional parquet floorers do not like the word “swelling”, since the parquet does not swell, but deforms and warps). When there is not enough moisture (for example, with strong heating), the parquet boards dry out, cracking and forming gaps between themselves. After all, while wood absorbs moisture well, it evaporates it no less well.
Shrinkage and swelling of parquet. How to avoid this?
Professional parquet floorers identify the main reasons for parquet deformation in one direction or another. By providing them, you will save your floor.
Floor swelling can occur if:
- the humidity of the self-leveling floor or screed on which the board is laid exceeds 5%
- moisture content of plywood or plank base exceeds 12%
- indoor wall humidity exceeds 5%
- When gluing parquet, water-dispersed adhesive with a high water content is used
- “raw” events are held in the same room as the parquet floor. Finishing work(filling the floor with screed or self-leveling floor, plastering work, styling tiles etc.)
- air humidity exceeds 60%
- availability of heated floors
- low air humidity (less than 40%)
- high air temperature (more than 24 degrees in winter and more than 28 degrees in summer)
Swelling of parquet usually occurs due to the fault of the installer: if the humidity standards for the base, screed or walls in the room were not met.
Who is guilty?
As a rule, the owner of the premises is to blame for the drying of the floor: that is, the three requirements that we wrote about above were not met. No matter how well the parquet floorer lays your flooring, if the humidity is extremely low, it will dry out. (Another thing is that he, for example, is obliged to warn you that it is better not to lay solid and parquet boards on heated floors).
As for the swelling of the parquet, it’s the other way around - it’s mostly the fault of the installer who didn’t take it into account high humidity screeds, foundations or walls in the room.
(this is why any installer should have a hygrometer with him - a device for determining the level of humidity. We wrote about this in the text “Beware, bad parquet installers!”, where we talked about all the tricks and incompetences that parquet installers have, and how they are generally control. Read!)
The owner can be at fault when the floor swells in only one case: if the humidity in the room exceeds the norm (although if this is discovered at the time of installation, the parquet floorer is to blame).
The parquet is swollen or drying out: what to do?
As for swelling, the deformation in the parquet planks, as a rule, remains even after the humidity returns to normal. If so, then only professional floor restoration will help, which involves sanding the entire floor surface and applying a protective layer to it.
But the cracks and crevices between the parquet flooring may well disappear as the temperature and air reach the recommended levels. If the scale of shrinkage is such that the complete disappearance of its consequences does not occur, then restoration will also be required, either local (puttying of individual areas) or general (the entire floor surface is sanded, puttied and covered with varnish or oil).
Only one thing: under no circumstances should you lay parquet on your own or with the help of ordinary workers. Only by professional parquet floorers, since only they know all the subtleties and nuances that arise when laying wooden flooring.
The creaking of a parquet floor can infuriate many people. Usually the floor begins to creak over time due to natural aging, but it also happens that the tins are creaking even in new buildings. Why does parquet floor squeak and how to get rid of parquet floor creaks?
There are many possible reasons why parquet creaks or any other wooden floor. The first thing you should do is find out the real reason the appearance of a squeak.
The material for manufacturing panel parquet and parquet boards is wood - certainly one of the most versatile and environmentally friendly building materials. But with all the advantages of this material, it also has significant drawback- hygroscopicity (absorption of natural moisture from the surrounding air). When drying out or, on the contrary, absorbing moisture, the parquet flooring can become deformed. Bottom line - creaking floor.
Creaking is the most common defect in old parquet boards. This is due to the fact that previously the parquet board was laid along the joists. The logs were not secured in any way and were laid in increments of 50-70 cm, which is quite small. Over time, the old parquet board begins to creak. Today, in most cases, parquet is laid over plywood, which eliminates the very possibility of parquet creaking for this reason.
Another reason why parquet floors squeak may be that the parquet does not hold onto its base. As a rule, previously parquet was laid by gluing it to the screed using bitumen mastic. However, over time, such mastic loses its adhesive properties and creaking parquet occurs. Most often, in this case, creaking occurs in individual places, and not over the entire floor area, so it is necessary to re-cover only individual creaking areas of the parquet using correctly selected glue.
How to repair creaking parquet flooring?
One of effective ways To independently eliminate parquet creaks, you can pour cement mortar in a 1:1 ratio of cement and water through a hole drilled in the place of the creaking (O 15 - 20 mm). However, if the cause of the squeak is poorly laid parquet, repairs cannot be avoided.
Parquet repair is the whole complex restoration work aimed at returning the parquet to its original appearance and properties. As a rule, parquet repairs are carried out for fairly old floors, the age of which can be calculated in decades from the date of construction of the house and which really need such repairs. Unsightly appearance parquet is not yet a reason to completely replace it with a new one.
Parquet repair may include the following operations:
- partial replacement of damaged areas of parquet;
- restoration of missing fragments;
- replacement of parquet while maintaining the pattern;
- partial replacement of deformed parquet planks;
- restoration of the base laid on joists and boards;
- elimination of failures;
- replacement of thinned parquet floors;
- replacement of parquet planks with chips;
- replacement of parquet planks with through stains;
- elimination of swollen parquet, etc.
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Causes of squeaking
Solving the problem of insufficient fixation of boards to joists
Chipboard floor
Elimination of squeaking due to deflection of boards
Gaps between floorboards
Wooden floors have one negative feature: after a while they begin to creak. This problem is faced by most people of this gender.
Such a base is unsuitable for use under a new coating, so it is necessary to eliminate the cause of the ear-piercing sound. Let's look at how to eliminate creaking wooden floors without disassembling and completely replacing them (read also: “Replacing the floor in an apartment with your own hands - a step-by-step guide”).
Causes of squeaking
First you need to establish the reasons for the creaking.
They may be as follows:
- The most common reason is unreliable fastening of the floorboards to the joists. This happens because they were fixed with nails, which became loose over time.
- Incorrect installation of joists. They must be installed freely and not rigidly fixed, but at the same time they must be in a stable position and not wobble.
- Gaps between the floorboards that could have occurred when wood was laid while it was not dry.
With the change of season, it dried out, and the boards began to rub against each other.
- There is no temperature gap. There should be a gap of at least 1 cm near walls, pipes, and doors. There should also be no rigid attachment to the walls or wedging.
- Large distance between the joists (for more details: “What is the distance between the floor joists when installing the floor”).
- Quite thin floorboards.
Creaking can occur for one or several reasons at once.
As a rule, they can be determined by a simple inspection, or you can remove one floorboard and assess the condition of the floor. Most of these problems can be solved without replacing the floor (read also: “Replacing floors in wooden house on a concrete screed").
Solving the problem of insufficient fixation of boards to joists
To solve the problem of how to eliminate the creaking of the floor from the boards due to insufficient fastening to the joists, it is necessary to fix them with long self-tapping screws that have large threads.
There is no need to pull out old nails; holes can be made nearby. They are removed if the caps stick out or are bent.
In order not to make a mistake with the length of the screws, you need to know the thickness of the joists and floorboards. Self-tapping screws should be taken 2-3 cm shorter than the total thickness of the floor structure.
To find out how far away it is concrete base, you should drill a hole or remove one board.
This is done very simply: the number of joists is multiplied by the number of floorboards in width. Here the problem arises of how to find the logs without opening the floor to find out their number. For this purpose it is removed floor plinth and through the gap near the wall you can see the logs.
First, holes are drilled for self-tapping screws, this will ensure easy screwing and tight fit of the floorboards. Then, where the floorboards come into contact with the joists, self-tapping screws are screwed in.
The hats should be recessed a little so that they do not interfere.
In places where the creaking has not disappeared, you need to put a mark in order to solve this problem later.
After this method of eliminating squeaks, the boards may become warped. Therefore, the surface should be leveled by laying sheets of plywood, which are screwed in increments of 15-20 cm with small self-tapping screws.
Chipboard floor
If the chipboard floor creaks, then we eliminate the creaking floor in the apartment as follows:
- The location of the squeak is determined.
It should be emptied and the floor covering removed.
- In the place where the creaking is heard, a square measuring 15x15 cm is drawn, which is cut out using a grinder, circular saw or jigsaw.
- The distance between the chipboard and the concrete floor is measured and a small block is cut out. It should be driven under the chipboard floor, in this way possible deflections will be eliminated and there will be no more creaking (read also: “How to make chipboard floors using joists with your own hands”).
- The sawn part is placed in place and fixed with self-tapping screws.
The cracks should be filled with putty. Then the floor covering is laid back.
When laying any materials in sheets to level a wooden floor (for example, plywood, OSB), a temperature gap of 3-5 mm should be left between the sheets.
If necessary, these cracks can be sealed with wood putty.
Elimination of squeaking due to deflection of boards
If the cause of the creaking lies in the deflection of insufficiently thick boards or the distance between the joists is incorrect, then the creaking of the floor can be eliminated without opening it.
To do this, you need self-tapping screws that have a large thread along the entire length that can hold the floorboards. Their length should correspond to the distance from the top border of the finished flooring to the concrete floor, or a little more.
A small hole is drilled through between the joists, but without getting into them. Then the screws are screwed in until they rest against the concrete base. As a result, the screws will act as auxiliary legs and eliminate the deflection.
In this case, you can use screws whose heads break off.
This will increase the support area. If this is not done, the pointed tips will wear through the concrete after a while.
Another reason for floor sagging is the use of incorrect boards. If simple planed boards that do not have a tongue-and-groove system are laid, they will not be connected to each other. For the floor it is necessary to use exclusively tongue and groove boards.
In this case, how to eliminate the creaking of the floor? It is necessary to connect the floorboards together.
For this it is necessary long drill woodworking and dowels.
The procedure is as follows:
- A hole is drilled at an angle so that it passes through two adjacent boards. The holes should be spaced out and in the opposite direction.
- PVA glue is applied to the dowel. It is then driven into the hole. And the boards turn out to be connected.
- When the glue has dried, its excess should be trimmed flush with the surface.
Gaps between floorboards
Gaps may appear between the floorboards, causing the boards to rub against each other, creating an unpleasant sound.
To solve this problem, you need to wedge the floorboards and seal the gap.
The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Thin wooden wedge slats are made. Braided cord will also work.
- PVA or wood glue must be applied to the wedges. Then they are driven into the crack.
- After the glue has dried, the protruding part of the slats is cut off flush with the floor.
- Small cracks are sealed with self-made putty.
To prepare it, mix wood dust from sanding with PVA glue. Read also: “Sealing cracks in wooden floor– 10 options and methods.”
Conclusion
The article looked at how to eliminate the creaking of a wooden floor in an apartment, the reason for which in most cases lies in non-compliance with the installation technology.
As a rule, the causes of squeaking can be eliminated without replacing the floor.
IN modern world, to the brim filled with plastic, synthetic, aromatic and processed foods, natural materials are becoming more and more valuable. A surplus of substitutes has caused a new rise in the popularity of wood flooring, favoring many surviving parquet floors. Unfortunately, in addition to these remnants of former luxury, there is also a sound recording in the form of a pulley.
If you are close to the principle that it is better to fix old things than to throw them away, we will help you find the answer to the question: what to do if the floor is knocked out?
Why does parquet get scratched?
Errors in the original position of the floor may cause scratches in the future. Among them:
What can be done in case of a squeak?
What to do if the soil is shrinking: Answers vary depending on the “diagnosis.”
First of all, you must carefully study the soil and consider all the places that signal your movement.
- Uneven base as a source of shrinkage.
The way out of this situation is categorical - it is necessary to dismantle the parquet cover and place it again with careful consideration of the technology of the intermediate layers.
If the quality of the soil gives much of what is desired, then the solution will flood the soil with a mixture of wormwood.
The molded layer can be used as good foundation for parquet. The main thing is to maintain the required thickness of this layer. The layer should be no more than two millimeters in square meters.
If any particular part of the concrete floor is damaged, it should be dismantled into the basement, thoroughly cleaned and poured with cement mortar.
Level, smooth, and keep the area moist for seven to ten days (eg, cover with a damp cloth). After this, you should let the area dry for about three weeks.
- Local destruction of plates;
In the middle of the “sounding” parts of the floor, it is worth mentioning several points at a distance of about 20 centimeters, after which they are glued to pieces of the colored strip.
Then, with two millimeters of drill tape and parquet boards, address the voids. The holes must be filled with glue.
This requires a syringe. Pull out the plunger, fill the glue, insert the plunger and release the air.
Remember that the syringe and, most importantly, your hands must be cleaned after this procedure.
The adhesive should be peeled off slowly and then allowed to dry for one hour. It may foam and leave marks. Remove the painted strip with adhesive residue if marks still remain, then remove them with solvent and wipe the parquet with a dry cloth. During the day, this area has been compressed by a heavy object such as a sandbag, weight, etc.
Finally, fill the holes in the floor with wax paint and polish the fabrics.
- Charges: errors and instructions;
First of all, it is necessary to determine their integrity.
If the beams are not particularly damaged, you can correct your location - move 30 cm away, level the level, place it evenly and pull it towards the bottom of the floor.
If necessary, you can also change the thickness or materials of the hydro- and thermal insulation layer.
- Distance between fiberboard (or plywood) and cement screed;
In this case, you must remove the floor plates that interrupt you by pulling and drilling a few centimeter holes at the bottom; fill them with a solution of cement and sand, mix in a ratio of 1: 3.
What to do if the floor is cut into the apartment and how to solve the problem without opening the floor
The next day, repeat these steps and create additional support for the base.
By the way, you can replace it with a higher quality, for example, two layers of film, with polyester in between.
- Incorrect selection and installation of parquet boards;
When purchasing parquet panels, you should carefully consider the quality of your locking system and geometry.
Often the cause of sticking is the last lock.
When installing parquet flooring, noticeable movement occurs due to blocking. From this movement of the entire canvas, some types of slabs push against the wall, causing stagnation. In this case, each line must be jammed.
Laying parquet on the walls too narrow is generally bad for the quiet of the room. It is necessary that the gap between the wall and the coating be about one centimeter.
In this case, if the humidity increases and the plates expand, you do not need to cut the blade around the perimeter.
- Problems with indoor humidity;
The appropriate humidity for parquet maintenance is 50-60%. For precise care, you can get a hygrometer, use a humidifier (if necessary), squeeze the fabric when washing.
If the wood is dry, you need to fasten the straps, place them under the forms underneath and nail them.
The most affected ones can be replaced with new ones.
07/21/2014 at 19:07
Despite the fact that parquet belongs to the class of elite floor coverings in apartments and private houses, it is not without its drawbacks, the most significant of which can be called squeaking when walking. You can prevent the appearance of noise at the stage of laying parquet boards and following the rules for using a wooden floor.
But sooner or later the creaking will appear and you will need to decide what to do to prevent the parquet from creaking.
How to eliminate the creaking of old parquet with your own hands
Why does parquet squeak?
There may be several reasons:
- naturalness of wood. This is the main reason for the appearance of squeaking. Since the board does not contain additional additives, it will undergo the process of linear expansion that is natural to wood.
In the case of solid boards or parquet, this phenomenon is more pronounced. If it is an engineered board or three-layer parquet, the disadvantage will be less pronounced, since the linear expansion is compensated by the presence of several layers and an adhesive composition;
- violation of parquet laying technology or use of low-quality materials;
- deformation of the parquet board itself (typical of solid wood, due to the fact that the wood was poorly dried);
- detachment of the plank from the base of the floor;
- deformation of the bar ridge;
- hardware became loose;
- lack of wall gap (seasonal parquet creaking);
- mobility of joists under parquet;
- local damage to the floor by mechanical or thermal means (flooding, heavy objects, direct sunlight);
- improper fastening of the plinth.
The reasons may be different, but if a creak appears, you must not aggravate the situation, because...
Moisture and sand can get into the cracks, friction between the planks will arise, and the damaged area will increase and the problem will grow. Therefore, you need to choose what to do if the parquet creaks. In this article, we will look at several practice-tested ways to eliminate parquet squeaks with your own hands.
Before you begin repairing your hardwood floor, you should mark all affected areas with chalk or masking tape.
So as not to miss a single one and complete all the work in one go.
What to do if the parquet creaks
Simple and complex options on how to remove unpleasant sound and restore silence.
1. Complete replacement of parquet
Most cardinal method eliminate the squeak.
It is worth resorting to in cases where the entire surface of the floor creaks strongly. This indicates that the parquet laying technology itself has been violated. Local repairs are not enough here, however, the planks that have retained their original appearance can be reused.
If the creaking appeared immediately after completion of the work and the planks have not yet been damaged, the following solution (technique) is possible - tightening the parquet.
To do this, you need to remove the parquet completely, check the condition of the joists, eliminate defects and reassemble the strips. At the same time, craftsmen advise replacing nails that fall out of place over time due to drying of the wood, with self-tapping screws. It was the use of self-tapping screws that gave the tightening procedure its name, because
they allow you to pull the boards together and securely fix them.
But not everyone is ready to go to radical measures and are looking for how to remove the squeak without removing the parquet.
2. Partial replacement of parquet (one or more planks, board)
This is a less expensive way to eliminate squeaking. Suitable for local scale problems.
Sequence of work:
- dismantle the bar (if it cannot be removed, crush it with a chisel or chisel);
- remove the adhesive base;
- clean the seat;
- prepare replacement parquet strips;
Note.
On the planks that will be laid on the outer edges, the ridge is cut off, and the cut area is sanded.
- pour glue or bitumen mastic to the seat;
- lay new parquet boards;
- remove excess adhesive solution;
- load the installation site of the parquet with something heavy, but so that the pressure is distributed evenly across the planks;
- sand the restored area and cover it with a protective layer.
Note.
Unlike wax-oil impregnations and stains, it is difficult to varnish a specific area, so you will need to sand and varnish the entire surface of the floor.
Note that the creaking of panel parquet is more difficult to remove. The construction of parquet from panels is typical for Soviet period, since it is much easier and faster to install. Today, owners of old apartments are trying to get rid of squeaking by installing piece parquet instead of a panel one.
3.
Eliminating squeaks without disassembling (removing) planks
In this direction, there are several effective ways to remove the creaking of parquet without disassembling the floor:
Filling voids
The essence of this procedure is to fill the voids under the parquet planks.
The following can be used as a placeholder:
- laitance is a liquid solution of cement and water (1:1 ratio). Used when the base for parquet is a concrete floor;
- polyurethane foam. Note that foam fills large voids, for example, between joists, giving the floor rigidity. But it is prone to shrinkage over time. Therefore, the method is only suitable as a temporary measure. Over time, the creaking will repeat;
- wax with solvent. It is inserted under the parquet flooring using a medical syringe.
The method is convenient because it does not leave visible marks on the surface of the parquet;
Despite the variety of fillers, the process of performing the work is the same. The board in the problem area is drilled. The diameter of the drill is equal to the diameter of the dowel, which will subsequently be used to tighten the board to the base. The installation location of the dowel is masked with a plug or puttied. Instead of a dowel, a wooden dowel can be used.
Note.
Using liquid nails, a smaller diameter is drilled out, and liquid nails serve as a replacement for the dowel.
Fixing the board to the base
A more reliable way to get rid of squeaking parquet is to tighten the boards to the base, as well as to each other.
Work order:
- Drill holes in the corners of the plank.
They are needed so that when hammering a nail the bar will not split;
- insert hardware into the hole. It is best to use thin-headed nails or parquet studs.
When tightening the hardware, you need to be careful not to damage the parquet. A self-tapping screw that is screwed too tightly into the subfloor will cause the plank to rise. Wooden dowels can be used, but they are larger than hardware and more visible on the surface of the parquet floor;
- deepen the heads of the screws (easier to cut) or grind off the protruding parts of the pins;
- cover the place where the hardware is fixed with putty;
- sand the work area and cover it with a decorative layer of varnish or wax.
Eliminating seasonal squeaking
This phenomenon is called seasonal, because
The creaking appears only during the heating period and in the middle of summer. We can conclude that the cause is insufficient humidity in the room.
To eliminate the squeak, you need to remove the baseboard and check for a gap near the wall. Most likely, there is no gap or its size is insufficient ( optimal distance 10-15 mm.).
In this case, you need to trim the boards. Too large a gap also leads to creaking near the baseboard; this can be eliminated by installing spacers.
If the cause of the squeak is large gaps
Sanding parquet as a way to eliminate squeaks
(Multiple gap elimination method)
This method is used when it is not possible to clearly identify the cause of the unpleasant sound.
As a rule, this happens when there are microgaps between most of the planks. To eliminate them, you need to sand the entire surface of the floor.
How to eliminate the creaking of old parquet in an apartment - causes and prevention
Sanding parquet allows you to remove only paintwork and a thin layer of wood (up to 1.5 mm).
After the floor is cleaned, it is primed and covered with a new layer of varnish. In this case, the varnish penetrates between the planks, thus filling small cracks. After this procedure, the creaking stops.
Conclusion
As you can see, the question of what to do to prevent parquet from creaking can be solved; there are many ways and some of them are quite simple and allow you to eliminate the creaking yourself.
If proper care is provided, old parquet flooring should not creak. However, if the attempt does not bring the expected result, you will need to either call specialists or completely replace the floor covering.
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At first heating season and at its end in apartments and country houses Air humidity drops sharply - up to 20%. Low humidity has a negative impact on parquet floors, plants and including humans.
Due to low humidity, parquet floors begin to dry out and cracks are not the only consequence of this inevitable process.
Drying causes each parquet plank to warp and move from the base, which can cause creaks and wobbles in the floor. The plywood base, which is also involved in movement, also suffers from low humidity, which is why it is so important to cut the plywood into at least 4 parts.
The negative consequences of low humidity can be minimal and even almost unnoticeable, but what does it depend on? Why do some floors dry out and others not? What is this secret?
Normal room humidity is 50%, which is almost constant in the warm season, and therefore ideal for parquet floors. Thus, it is necessary to maintain this humidity during the heating season.
For this purpose, there are air humidification devices and various stationary systems. supply and exhaust ventilation. Thus, it is possible to maintain air humidity at a minimum of 40%, with a norm of 50%.
Consequently, it is completely logical to sand the floors in the summer, and by winter prepare to moisten the room, since in the summer the parquet has had time to return to its normal geometric state.
However, most often, few people are concerned about the moisture in the room, so for such cases, the advice is to sand the floors after one month of the heating season, when the parquet dries out, so that the cracks can be puttied.
In summer, the putty may be squeezed out, but this is not critical.
You can prepare for new parquet floors by choosing the right parquet and its installation technology.
Correct selection of parquet materials
The denser the wood, the less it reacts to variability in humidity. But it’s not only the density that you should pay attention to, because the cut, grade and width also matter. The color of the wood, the grain pattern, and the cutting method depend on the variety. The wider the materials, the more noticeable the shortcomings from the influence of humidity variability will be. Radial cut better than tangential, but also significantly more expensive, so you can ignore this parameter.
More important is the ergonomics of the floor in design.
The width of piece parquet must be chosen up to 7 cm; from 8 cm, the parquet must be chamfered, which will hide cracks and warping during use.
The solid board should be no more than 12 cm wide and chamfered. Parquet and engineered boards are no wider than 15 cm.
Proper execution of installation work from scratch
If you approach production correctly parquet work, choose the right materials and timing of the work, then forced air humidification may not be necessary.
What to do if the parquet creaks?
The base must be waterproofed, because it is absolutely not difficult to lay down a film before pouring a cement-sand screed or installing logs. Make the cement-sand screed using a mixture of M300 and without using a self-leveling floor, which will peel off over time and you will get a wobbly floor.
In the summer, give the screed 3-4 months to dry, in winter period 1-2 months is enough, the main thing is that the heating radiators work. Before laying plywood and parquet, measure the moisture content of the screed.
Before laying plywood, it should be cut into 4 pieces or more. When laying, do not skimp on the quantity and quality of glue, which should preferably be water-free.
Parquet should be sanded and varnished before the heating season and 1-2 weeks after installation. The space between the wall and the parquet could be better foamed. Please note that the parquet needs to be protected with a varnish film, and not with oil.
Thus, the parquet will have its own microclimate, since it is protected from below and from above by a film, it is as if in a vacuum. A parquet that is protected on all sides will resist drying out, but even in this case it is still better to consider moisturizing.
The conditions for laying solid and coated parquet boards are basically the same, but if your logical reasoning is not enough, then you can always consult me.
In this article we try to explain in an accessible form why there is a parquet board when walking. This is not a lonely problem! It is very insulting when new floors are not found, and the parquet boards “go” underfoot after installation. Read and maybe find the answers yourself! Oh, by the way, the parquet and engine boards are almost the same.
If you are on this site and are interested in yourself, for parquet when you go and what to do with it, see the link!
By the way, all of these answers apply to questions about why lamination goes or bends.
Laminate meets the same installation and maintenance requirements as parquet panels. The requirements for quality, installation and maintenance are almost identical. Why Laminate Pulley? and tips for installing it can be read here!
Many people who buy hardwood flooring and have it done as recommended are surprised over time to notice that when they walk, they hear screaming. The plinth is pulled out when it is placed on uneven surface using the floating method.
It is possible that the parking area is not of high quality. How is this expressed? Broken geometry, locks are not tight and similar. When you walk, the smallest shifts occur, which contribute to the friction of the parts against each other, which causes the suppression of your parquet. It's a shame because they created the parquet but they are lame or they say they walk.
Why did the parquet board begin to crumble?
Let's assume that there are two ways to lay parquet boards.
The first is the “solid” method, when the parquet panel is mounted with adhesives.
Floor from top of panel
In this case, the structure is glued to the substrate, especially on plywood. Another way is to define a "floating" method. It consists in the fact that the roof lying on the ground is under its own weight.
Place underlayment between the hardwood panel and the underlayment: cork, vinyl, and others.
In our opinion, the first method creates a more durable and monolithic structure ensuring long-term operation.
There were scratches on the parquet panels - who is to blame?
If you choose to float in a parking lot, then you should ensure that the base is completely flat.
If there is irregularity in the base per minute, the panel will be uneven. When it is used, these places will start to worry. Even the smallest movement will cause some elements to rub against others, resulting in external noise. The scenario will only increase in the future. If the pallet "goes" or is "blue" underfoot, it means the pedestal is like a vegetable garden or slab up. Make sure there is a difference between the panel and the wall.
The cause of the violin is a change in temperature and humidity conditions.
A parquet panel is still wood, which tends to change size with changes in humidity. The plate may be too dry and of course it will spread in more humid environment. If there is no between the floor and the wall expansion joint, this is usually a problem.
But if you have this, you can create tension in the joints, which will lead to cramps.
Any deformation of the parquet board, such as peeling, boating, waves, if the parking cover is covered and similar, also causes a change in humidity.
Expansion of the entire structure or individual elements causes such sad consequences.
Often when installing a parquet floor it is necessary to make a concrete screed.
Drying time can be up to one month or longer if you are in a hurry and apply before styling and then compress or fan. Batten will begin to crumble, chafe and move when she goes very fast. All this is so obvious, but for some reason it’s everywhere?
If the weather is impermeable, epoxy waterproofing coatings can be used, but it is best to wait until the substrate is completely dry.
Any work involving high moisture content such as plastering, wall leveling, painting, etc. can cause warping.
Covering wood floors with film creates a greenhouse gas effect, which can also cause undesirable effects when high humidity. In the photos you can see how the edge of the parquet was darkened by the background.
The edges of the dead have darkened
Dark spots on the ground
Warping, cracking, warping and varnishing will then begin.
The only solution is to remove, correct the cause and put aside a new cover, partially or completely.
If anyone tells you that it is normal for a patch plate to occur, then they are trying to deceive you. The floor must be dense; if the slab rises when walking, it does not lie securely. This causes inequality, thick substrate or too much, in the future it will not be resolved and will not get tired!
If we think that the parquet board is poorly installed, we need to make sure that the parquet panel is of high quality.
Improper drying or storage, broken geometry or poor quality locks will cause deformation and internal stress, which will lead to shrinkage or noise when walking. Buy trusted brands, do not follow the sincere "cheap", do not pick up damaged items, it is better to buy another package. Use special gel lubricant locks.
Some people who are trying to strengthen soundproofing or do not interfere with differences in the surface of the base give a thick layer of underlayment.
Over time, part of the substrate may condense or crack under stress, causing monolith failure and noise.
It's a secret? The only solution is to split the work or the entire floor. Repairs to scratches on the parquet board touching the seal can only be carried out for a short time, the sounds continue for a short time.
The best method is parquet glue, although the choice is yours.
If you hope, or someone convinces you, that parquet boards that are stored after installation will calm down, this is unlikely! What was done wrong will not be better!
Today's building materials market can offer big choice floor coverings. If you choose between linoleum, laminate or parquet, then most people prefer wooden parquet, which has proven itself to be a reliable coating that has been proven over the years. But even he tends to have shortcomings.
One of these moments may be a creaking sound when walking on such a floor covering. Agree, it’s not so pleasant to hear a creak after every step you take. Therefore, owners of such floors are interested in two questions: how to get rid of squeaking, and what could be the reasons for this trouble?
Parquet is the most popular floor covering
Causes of squeaking
Despite all the positive qualities of parquet floors, they are characterized by some problems. The most popular is the creaking of wooden planks with every step. And before you start looking for ways to eliminate squeaking, let's look at the causes of this trouble.
It is important! Remember that when correct installation There should be no squeaking on the parquet board; this drawback is characteristic only of old parquet.
What can be done to prevent wooden parquet from squeaking? First you need to figure out why the parquet board creaks?
Old coating can sometimes squeak The creaking of parquet boards can be caused by several reasons:
- the parquet board creaks due to the unevenness of the subfloors. If installation rules were not followed parquet flooring, then sooner or later this will lead to subsidence of the base, which will cause creaking and loosening of the parquet;
- if, when laying parquet, the distance between the wall and the laid covering was not maintained. In other words, the wooden planks ended up fitting too tightly to the wall of the room. Without gaps, wood planks cannot expand naturally, which ultimately leads to squeaking. Unfortunately, even panel parquet is not immune from this;
- When the joists are deformed or placed incorrectly, the parquet base also creaks. Perhaps the rules of heat or vapor barrier were violated, which leads to the fact that the parquet boards seem to be walking and making a characteristic sound;
- the next reason for the creaking of wooden parquet is a violation temperature regime indoors or incorrect installation skirting boards.
Regardless of the reasons for the creaking, repair is the only way to find silence in your home.
Ways to solve problems
There are several methods for eliminating squeaks from a piece of flooring, but first, let’s identify the most vulnerable areas of the parquet. To do this, you need to walk along the floor and mark those places that require mandatory bulkheading. To answer the question of how to remove creaking parquet flooring, you need to take all measures to restore it.
It is important! You can eliminate creaking floor coverings simultaneously with other work. You can varnish the parquet or perform other activities that will significantly save you time.
Parquet dismantling
If you are interested in the question of how to get rid of creaking parquet flooring, then the simplest but most drastic method is to replace the wooden planks. In other words, you need to dismantle the problem areas and replace them with new material, and then varnish them.
This method is suitable if all wooden planks are walking. If creaking is observed only in a few places, you can solve the problem of wooden planks locally, without completely replacing the parquet.
Dismantling problem areas How to remove potholes and cracks
The most important problem owners of old houses - this is the creaking of wooden parquet and eliminating problems. If the slats not only make unpleasant sounds, but also crack, then this indicates wrong conditions use of the floor indoors. Wooden parquet could be damp, after some time it dried out. To begin, treat the seams with putty, and apply a composition that imitates wood on top.
You can revive the old coating using casein glue with sawdust. After this, you need to sand the wooden planks and coat them with wood varnish.
If the gaps between the planks are very wide, then puttying will not help you; it is better to replace the wooden plank.
Replacing dried out planks To do this, follow our instructions:
- Split the dried plank into several fragments and remove all parts. Remove the adhesive.
- Clean out the cavity left by this strip and prepare it for installing the next material.
- Take a new plank, cut off the ridge from it and process this area with a plane.
- If the damaged area takes up more space, several wooden planks need to be replaced.
- You need to pour bitumen mastic or other adhesive into the freed space, place a strip on top and press it down with something heavy.
Excess adhesive must be removed. After the glue has completely dried, sand the wooden planks, clean them of dust and coat them with varnish.
Base repair
If the question of what to do with creaking parquet is still relevant, let's look at a method on how to repair the base underneath it. For work, it is advised to take sheets of plywood and lay them on the old base. The direction of the sheets should correspond to the laying of wooden planks.
Unfortunately, getting rid of squeaks using this method can only last for a few years.
Parquet floor plan There is another method to solve the problem. But to implement it, you need to know the type of base for parquet. If it was bitumen mastic, then use a hairdryer to warm up the parquet boards. This will lead to the dissolution of the bitumen, now the planks can be pressed against it until completely dry. Repairs made in this way can solve the problem in just a few minutes.
Wedge tamping method
If you are interested in the question why does a wooden parquet board move after installation, then the answer lies in improper installation parquet material. Often this is simply poor-quality fastening of the parquet planks to the beams. To solve this problem, you can use a method where you drive wedges between the beams and boards. Bottom part the boards should be fixed on the joists from above.
Tamping wedges If the creaking of the parquet is the cause of friction between the boards, you can use the simplest method: pour graphite powder between these planks.
Anti-creaking adhesive for parquet
To get rid of the squeak, you can take another method. All work is performed in the following sequence:
How to pour adhesive - Mark the places where the parquet is damaged, mark points on them at a distance of 15 cm from each other. Place masking tape on them.
- In the marked places, holes with a diameter of 2 mm must be made in the planks.
- Using a syringe, pour in the adhesive so that it gets between the floor and the parquet.
- Wait an hour for the adhesive to dry.
- Remove the tape.
- Remove remaining adhesive using foam solvent.
- Press this place with a weight and let it stand in this position for a while.
- Take care of your wax crayons in advance.
- Every other day, fill the holes with wax.
- Polish the surface.
- Now we can say with confidence that the restoration was successful.
Cement mortar
This method involves using cement mortar to fix the fallen strip. Using a hammer drill, make a hole in the floor with a diameter of 2 cm. Carefully pour into it cement mortar until the bar touches it. Install the plug and fill in the hole with a wax pencil.
This method will be even more effective if the hole is opposite the joist. First, pour cement mortar into it, and after 24 hours, install a wooden stake in this hole. Its edge should reach the floor slab, the rest of the pin is removed, and the surface is leveled.
You can drill holes of a smaller diameter and use “liquid nails” glue instead of mortar. He will glue the strips to the base. All that remains for you is to treat the holes with putty.
Syringing the wax mixture
This method consists in the fact that a special lubricant composition, which includes wax, acts as a resuscitating mixture for parquet. After making a small hole, you need to insert it under the parquet base.
Polyurethane foam
In most cases, the gap between the floors is 9 cm. As a solution to the squeaking problem, you can fill it polyurethane foam. But the downside of this material is considered to be bad operational properties, over time you will notice that the squeaking problem may return, so this method is not as effective.
Polyurethane foam against creaking parquet Metal anchors
If the base under the parquet is concrete, then you can try using the anchor method. Their fastening is done manually; you need to prepare small holes for them in advance.
Metal anchors Broaching with self-tapping screws
The next method for solving problems with squeaking is broaching with self-tapping screws. It is suitable if creaking is heard in the places where the parquet boards come into contact with the joists.
First you need to find the log, make sure that there are no communications under it that could be accidentally damaged. Prepare a hole through the parquet board into the joist, drive a nail or self-tapping screw into it, the head of which must be recessed into the board.
Self-tapping screws are suitable instead of nails Parquet tightening
This method is the most accessible, but also the most labor-intensive. Using a brute force method, you need to check the condition of all the boards and replace the problematic planks.
It is important! This method will be effective because you will replace all the nails with self-tapping screws, which will provide additional strength. In addition, you will get rid of the problem of squeaky wooden coverings, since self-tapping screws cannot create such sounds when in contact with wood.
Prevention
If you are interested in your wood flooring serving you for a long time, then try to follow some measures to prevent the formation of squeaks in the parquet flooring.
How to choose a parquet board How to avoid problems with parquet:
- When choosing wooden material give preference to valuable wood species.
- When choosing glue for its installation, remember that it must be a special composition.
- It is better if you entrust the work of laying wood flooring to specialists.
- Follow the care instructions wood covering and its operation. If the thermal or humidity conditions parquet can lose its properties, which sooner or later will lead to its creaking.
- Renew the varnish every 5-7 years, depending on the level of traffic in the room.
Creaking is considered the most common defect in parquet flooring. Moreover, sounds can be produced both by local areas and by the entire coverage. How to force flooring material shut up? First of all, you need to figure out what causes the “singing”, and then look for ways to eliminate it.
First, let's define the terminology. TO parquet floor include:
- Classic piece planks made of solid wood, laid with glue or hardware;
- Multi-layer parquet board, installed “floating”, less often - by adhesive method;
- Solid (solid) floorboards that are attached to the base by gluing or fastening;
- Panel type-setting parquet or engineered wood, fixed in all three ways: locking, adhesive, hardware.
Conditionally, the reasons can be divided into three groups:
Installation errors
Manufacturers are doing their best to convey to customers that wood products must be laid according to instructions developed on the basis of engineering solutions and many years of research. But, unfortunately, most craftsmen prefer to do the installation in the most convenient way for themselves. Result: the parquet floor in the apartment creaks annoyingly at the slightest movement and the question arises - what to do?!
The list of factors in this group:
- Violation of the basic requirements for forming a structure for floors using joists. In particular this may be too long distance between elements, sparse fasteners, poor-quality or deformed support, lack of waterproofing, etc. To correct this type of error, you will have to completely disassemble the floor and look for the reasons visually, and not by ear.
- Using an electric (cable) floor heating system. Too much spot heating damages the planks and causes uneven changes geometric dimensions. And here there is no solution to how to get rid of creaking parquet floors, other than turning off the heating or reducing it to an ineffective minimum.
Wear and tear of the structure
Parquet floors age over time and need to be restored. In particular, there is:
- Deformation (drying, twisting), destruction of covering strips, support beams, plywood;
- Substrate subsidence (when laying “floating”);
- Peeling off elements of old parquet;
- Loosening or falling out of fasteners (nails, studs, screws).
Features of wood
A separate group can be divided into a number of factors related directly to the characteristics of the flooring material. In particular, a squeaky floor may be the result of the wrong type or type of wood. Eg:
Even the level of humidity in the room affects the appearance of extraneous sounds. In winter, when the heating system is turned on, the percentage of moisture in the air decreases, the slats dry out and begin to creak at the slightest load. In this case, special humidifiers will help.
How to eliminate parquet squeaking
It’s not for nothing that we outlined the methods for installing floor coverings at the very beginning. The choice depends on it the best way repair.
Correction of coating deficiencies is carried out in several directions:
Elimination of base defects
It is easiest to work with a floor that is formed using the “floating” method. It is enough to remove the plinth, carefully disassemble the material and do partial or complete renovation base layer. In the first case, the tubercles need to be cut off and the holes filled with cement-sand or a quick-drying mixture. In the second, experts recommend complete leveling with thin-layer bulk mixtures.
If the parquet floor is glued or fixed with hardware, then the work becomes more complicated. You can try to remove the imperfections locally, that is, in places where the creaking is strongest, cut the slats using a cutting power tool, or split the slats with a hammer and chisel. Next, the damaged elements are removed, the base defect is corrected and new parquet is glued.
For a solid floor formed using joists, the method for eliminating defects involves:
- reducing the pitch of the support bars and/or laying waterproofing material. The greater the distance between the beams or slats, the greater the degree of sagging of the board and the stronger the creaking. The optimal width is no more than 50 cm. To correct this shortcoming you will need complete disassembly coverings.
- replacement of damaged elements. Twisted or humped logs will deform the finish coating. Therefore, the floor must be removed and the supports replaced. If the reason is that the fasteners have fallen out or rusted, then you need to carefully inspect the entire floor, replace the fasteners with new ones, and where necessary, “pull” the boards to the joists with additional nails or self-tapping screws. The latter gives a good effect on old coatings, since over time the lamellas move away from the supports and begin to creak heavily due to friction;
Formation of expansion joints
This method is recommended for coatings installed using the “floating” method. Along the perimeter you need to remove the baseboards, cut them with a jigsaw or other cutting tool edge of the lamella to the required width (up to 10 mm, the exact width of the seam is indicated in the instructions for the material). If there are swollen areas, then boards with damaged locks must be replaced with new ones. Or you can partially redo the floor, add fixing elements (for example, drive “studs” into the lock at an angle of 45 °), and install decorative moldings back.
Laying a new substrate or replacing the old one
The locks of parquet boards or panel parquet stretch over time. Therefore, when dismantling the material, it is necessary to number each strip with a marker, so that later you can assemble the coating in the same order.
The disassembled floor must be temporarily removed from the room, the base carefully inspected for defects, swept and primed. Next, you need to lay strips of waterproofing film with an overlap of 20 cm, mount the backing and you can assemble finishing material again.
Restoration of old parquet
Experts recommend carrying out a complete overhaul of the parquet after 1-3 years of operation, since during this time the wood will be completely acclimatized and all the shortcomings will be revealed, which can be easily eliminated. Of course, this is acceptable for coatings fixed to locking connections or fasteners.
What to do with planks that have become deformed or peeled off over time? Here are two solutions:
- remove damaged elements, split them with a chisel and hammer, glue in new ones, fill the joints and restore the protective layer of the surface;
- if the plank is intact, then you can drill a small hole in it, inject the adhesive composition with a syringe, remove the excess, and fix it with a weight for 12-24 hours. After the glue has polymerized, seal the gap with putty or repair wax.
The video below shows how to remove creaking parquet flooring without removing it completely.
In the end, we note that creaking parquet of any nature can be eliminated if you approach the matter thoroughly. Partial repairs like “pulling” the covering to the joists with additional fastenings gives a temporary effect. After a few years, the defects will appear again. You will have to either completely sort out the flooring material or replace it with a new one.
Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.
Today, the building materials market offers customers many types of floor coverings of various types. price categories. But many continue to give preference to the good old parquet, which has proven itself with the best side. But even he has shortcomings over time. For example, it begins to creak, albeit quietly, but intrusively and unpleasantly.
Reasons for parquet creaking
Despite the fact that parquet belongs to the elite class of floor coverings, it can also reduce performance. Creaking is the most common problem. Before you find out how to get rid of it, you need to find out the reason for the unpleasant sound.
The appearance of squeaking is possible only in the case of old parquet.
This flooring is made from natural wood. We can say that creaking is a payment for the environmental friendliness of the material, which does not contain chemical additives that prevent shrinkage. It appears due to the detachment of parquet planks from the base (screed with plywood sheets or concrete, bitumen mastic), which creates friction. A minimal movement of the slats is enough for a squeak to occur.
The reasons for parquet squeaking can be different.
In some places on the floor, due to uneven evaporation of moisture from the parquet board, cavities form between the parquet and the base. Dust and small debris accumulate in them. In such areas the coating begins to “play”.
In addition, the causes of unpleasant sound include:
- parquet drying out;
- splitting of planks;
- broken ridge or groove;
- loosening of nails and screws;
- nails and screws coming out of their nests;
- movement of the ends and joists of the boards relative to each other;
- no gap near the walls.
That is, the source may be the friction of the planks on the nails with which they are nailed, or the interaction of the parquet boards with each other and the flooring under the covering.
Remedies
We will look at several ways to eliminate parquet squeaks. But before that you need to find vulnerable areas. Walk over the floor and note the places where it is faulty. Mark these points so that recovery measures can be applied to them later.
Note! Eliminating squeaks is best done in conjunction with other restoration work, such as waxing or varnishing. This will help save time.
Parquet dismantling
A cardinal method of dealing with creaking sounds - complete replacement parquet flooring. You need to dismantle the planks, prepare the base, lay the disassembled parquet, scrape it, sand it and varnish it.
You can use this method if all the dies (or most) have moved away from the base. It is worth noting that this procedure is costly in terms of time and finances. Therefore, if the creaking is local in nature, it can be eliminated without removing the parquet.
If the parquet strips have moved away from the base, you need to dismantle the covering
Repairing potholes and cracks
If, when walking, the parquet not only creaks, but also crackles quite loudly, this indicates high temperature or low indoor humidity levels. During installation, the wood was damp, but over time it dried out. In this case, use putty: carefully seal the cracks in the color of the parquet and cover the potholes with a thick layer. Apply wood imitation on top.
You can use casein glue mixed with sawdust. After this, sand the parquet well and coat it with wood varnish.
If the cracks are quite wide, it is better not to waste time filling them - they will spread anyway. In this case, you should replace the parquet strip, choosing planks of the same size and color from the same wood as the entire parquet.
Removing dried parquet strips
After that, follow the instructions.
- Chop the dried plank into several pieces with a chisel or chisel. Take them out. Starting from the middle, remove all the adhesive backing.
- Thoroughly clean the cavity remaining after removing the strip. Carefully level the base.
- Prepare a new board. You need to cut off the ridge from it, and carefully sand the cut area with a plane. If necessary, cut tongues and grooves from adjacent parquet flooring.
- If you need to replace several boards located next to each other, first fasten them together to form a single rive. Before doing this, make sure that the new boards will fit exactly in place of the old ones.
- On the base, freed from parquet, pour bitumen mastic brought to a temperature of 150–170 degrees, or another adhesive composition suitable for such work. Place a rivet on top. Carefully wipe off any excess glue or mastic that has leaked out. Press down the new board with some weight.
- After adhesive base When the paint is completely dry, sand the restored area, clean it of dust and varnish it.
Repair of parquet flooring base
If the parquet floor is smooth, but still creaks, you need to lay 12 mm plywood sheets with glue on top of the base. Do this in the direction of the main laying of the parquet boards at the desired angle. Of course, this method will not get rid of the squeak forever, but it will allow you to forget about it for a long time.
Base plan for parquet flooring
There is another method for ridding parquet floors of unpleasant sounds. When using it, you need to consider the type of base. If you laid the parquet on bitumen mastic, do the following: use a hair dryer to heat the parquet blocks so that the bitumen underneath them melts. After this, press the dies firmly and leave to dry.
Wedge tamping method
A common cause of squeaking is poor fastening of the planks to the beams or beams. To prevent this, wedges are driven between the beam and the board. If the lower part of the floor is inaccessible, the boards are fixed on the joists from above.
An example of fixing parquet boards using the wedge method
If the parquet creaks due to the friction of the boards with each other, drive wedges into the cracks, maintaining a step of 15–20 cm. Make sure that these wedges do not protrude above the floor level.
You can use more simple method. Simply sprinkle graphite powder or talc into the cracks between the boards.
Filling with adhesive
To get rid of squeaking in this way, you need:
- electric drill with 2 mm drill;
- medical syringe;
- masking tape;
- polyurethane glue;
- wax crayons;
- rags;
- dowels
Armed necessary materials and tools, get to work.
In the center of the damaged areas on the parquet, mark points equidistant from each other by 15 cm. Apply masking tape to them.
At the marked places, make through holes with a diameter of 2 mm in the planks. Using a syringe, pour glue between the base of the floor and the parquet through them.
Filling with a syringe of adhesive composition
Leave the work for about an hour so that the glue has time to dry. After this, remove the tape. Remove traces of adhesive remaining on the parquet using foam solvent.
Using a heavy weight, press the parquet flooring to the base of the floor. Avoid walking in the repaired area for a while.
Pre-select wax crayons to match the color of the parquet. A day after the repair, fill the holes with wax. Polish the parquet floor with a rag.
Cement mortar
Using a hammer drill, make a hole in the floor with a diameter of no more than 2 cm. Pour cement mortar or heated bitumen inside so that the squeak-creating plank rests on it. Hammer the cork and paint over it so that no visible marks remain.
The same method will be even more effective if you drill a hole against the joist. Pour cement mortar inside. After a day, glue a wooden pin into the hole. With its edge it should reach the floor slab. Remove the remains of the pin, level it with the parquet, clean it, apply putty and paint.
You can also drill holes of a smaller diameter and use liquid nails instead of screws and dowels. Glue the planks to the base and fill the holes with wood putty.
Syringe in parquet floor
To implement this method, a wax-based lubricant with the addition of a special solvent is used. The prepared product is injected under the parquet through micro-holes by douching.
Alternatively, you can use a water-based lubricant. It is supplied under pressure into the cavity under the parquet.
Pouring polyurethane foam
Typically, the space under the floor has a height of about 9 cm. To eliminate creaking, it can be filled with polyurethane foam, which, when expanding, gives the flooring rigidity. This method has a drawback: during operation, the foam can become dented and destroyed over time, causing the squeak to appear again. Therefore, this method is considered quite expensive and ineffective.
The cavities formed between the parquet and the base can be filled with polyurethane foam
Using metal anchors
If the base of the parquet floor is a concrete slab, you can use anchors. They are attached exclusively by hand. Drill a small hole, install the metal shell and screw in the stud of the part.
Method of using metal anchors
This method is quite effective, but it can be expensive if you need about 200 anchors, the price of which is 10–15 rubles per piece.
Broaching with self-tapping screws
If creaking occurs at the point where the parquet board comes into contact with the lag, then broaching with self-tapping screws is a great way to get rid of the problem. The most a big problem in this method - find the lag.
Replace nails with self-tapping screws
Make sure there are no utilities under the defective floorboard. Use a drill to drill a hole through the board into the joist on one side. Drive a nail into it, or better yet, screw in a screw of the appropriate size. Be sure to drown the hat in the board.
Parquet floor tightening
The tightening process is quite labor-intensive, but cheap. You need to check the condition of the joists and parquet boards by brute force. It is necessary to correct detected defects or replace damaged strips.
The method is effective in that you replace all the nails with self-tapping screws that provide tightening. Self-tapping screws do not have the disadvantage inherent in nails - they do not creak at the points of contact with the wood.
Being in the wood, the nail holds its layers, which, in turn, cover the metal. But over time, corrosion weakens the metal and thins it. The resulting backlash becomes a source of creaking sounds.
Having secured the parquet with self-tapping screws, sand the putty area and cover it with a varnish or wax of a suitable color.
Prevention
What needs to be done to ensure that your parquet serves you for a long time and does not disturb you with unpleasant sounds? Our advice will help you avoid problems.
Video about ways to eliminate parquet squeaks
We hope you don’t have to waste time and money calling specialists, because now you know a few simple ways eliminating squeaks with your own hands. If you have any questions about this topic, please ask them in the comments. Or share with us your experience in restoring parquet flooring. Easy work for you and comfort for your home!