ALTERNATING CROPS IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN (WHAT CAN BE PLANTED AFTER WHICH). Gardeners and summer residents, especially beginners, will find this memo useful. And for non-beginners, it wouldn’t hurt to refresh your memory at the beginning of the sowing season. The plant is returned to the place where it grew no earlier than after 3-4 years. There are exceptions: tomato, beans, strawberries, potatoes - they can grow in the same place for years. The principle of fruit replacement implies that predecessors prepare the soil for the next plants. After plants with a shallow root system, plants with a deep root system are planted. After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshades (tomato, potato). Related plant crops (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases. To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants are alternated depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate tops and roots (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes). After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended. After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery. After cucumbers, zucchini, and squash, the following are planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, and potatoes. After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes. After strawberries (after 4 years) - root vegetables and legumes, next year- pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, then tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, you can plant any crops. The best predecessors of the main vegetable crops are: for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions; for early white cabbage and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, onions, legumes, root vegetables (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga); for medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potato, legumes, carrots, beets; for onions on turnips - cucumber, tomato, early White cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes; for cucumber - early white cabbage and cauliflower , tomatoes, potatoes, legumes (except beans), root vegetables (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber; for carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, which suffers from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans); for beets - cucumber and other pumpkins, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage; for potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, onions; for tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions, root vegetables, late cabbage; for garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage; Compatible plants: Cherry - raspberry It is recommended to plant eggplant among bush beans, which repel the Colorado potato beetle. Has a beneficial effect on eggplants - savory. The most favorable neighbors for beans are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, and spinach. Interspersing beans into the plantings of these plants improves the nitrogen supply of the latter. Fragrant basil, planted next to the beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow. Radishes and oilseed radishes have a beneficial effect on grapes. Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera. Relationships of mutual assistance have been observed in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen. Mustard repels the pea moth from peas and inhibits weeds. Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas. Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas. Strawberries are favorably influenced by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley planted between strawberry rows repels slugs. Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, and garlic. Among herbs, borage (orygrass) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil during fruit formation with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries; White cabbage prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes as neighbors. Dill planted between rows of cabbage improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids. Celery protects cabbage from flea beetles and cabbage flies, but its smell attracts cabbage whites, which means it is undesirable to place them together. It is also beneficial for cabbage to be near cucumber grass, which has a good effect on cabbage and, with its hard, hairy leaves, drives away snails. A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the flea beetle. Cabbage is in dire need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on its leaves. This role can be performed by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, and sage around cabbage plantings. Leeks repel cutworm caterpillars. It is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtiums, and marigolds in the cabbage rows - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, and white flies. Parsnips attract predatory insects that destroy the caterpillars. Head lettuce, onion, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli. Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots. Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. The potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans provide nitrogen to the potatoes. The above plants complement each other advantageously, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants it gets sick less and grows in one place for many years, with stable yields. Potatoes are partial to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, and garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between potato rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower, corn, radishes and different types salad, Horseradish planted in bushes around the potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. Colorado potato beetle Marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy repel. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight. Corn is a nutritionally demanding plant, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is a support. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, and lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. From an allelopathy point of view, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes and sunflowers. Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil. Soybeans protect corn from bugs. Bad neighbors for corn are beets and celery. Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel the onion fly, and onions repel the carrot fly. Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, and parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is beneficial for onion growth; chamomile also works well on it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per linear meter beds). By placing onions and garlic as separate plants next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions do not go well with beans, peas, or beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him. Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot. Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are also friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, and carrots. The root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the bed make carrots healthier. Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets. Strawberries or medicinal herbs : chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea. Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage. If you sow dill between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, and parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers. The nut has no compatible crops; Spring garlic and dill will help tomatoes. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To repel codling moth butterflies and protect pear and apple trees from scab, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans. Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes; Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach; Lettuce repels flea beetles from radishes, radishes, and cabbage; Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. Nasturtium and watercress also contribute to this. Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley; Celery prefers to be its neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, cabbage. Currants are not damaged by the bud mite if onions are planted between the bushes and left in the ground for the winter. Soybean is friendly with all crops. Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against nematodes. Beans, squash and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds by shading the soil with its leaves, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, and beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, since they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting. Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides, prevents the spread of pests and diseases. If you plant marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory between rows of potatoes or onions, and plow bunches of rye straw into the soil, they will protect these crops from damage by nematodes. Marigolds, leaf mustard, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil. If you make a border of marigolds around the area where the roses are planted, nematode damage to the roses will become impossible. Parsley will drive away the ants. Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera. Tansy cinerarifolia, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage cutworm and white moth caterpillars, and the apple tree from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and the closely related red tansy. These plants are also known as Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile. The following go well with salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes; Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, and sugar beets. It is useful to plant other crops with beans, as it helps get rid of the meadow borer. Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, blackleg, black spot and fusarium, reduces the incidence of gray mold in carnations. Apple tree - raspberries Celery, dill, onions, carrots well planted nearby. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other. Incompatible plants: It is not recommended to plant beans (beans, peas, soybeans) with onions and garlic. Also, the proximity of marigolds and wormwood has a bad effect on beans. Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes; Peas - incompatible with rutabaga, beans, and tomatoes; Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic; Combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, rutabaga, and beans are unfavorable; Wormwood has a bad effect on peas; The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown; Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots; Cabbage does not combine with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from nearby growing grapes; Tansy has a bad effect on kale. Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight); Potatoes are suppressed by: cherry, apple, raspberry, rowan, sunflower; Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkins; It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery; Bad neighbors for corn are beets and celery; Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted side by side (damage to the gooseberry moth); Onions do not go well with beans, peas, beans (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him. Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this promotes the proliferation of the strawberry-raspberry weevil; Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshades - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases; Cucumbers are overwhelmed by tomatoes; Cucumbers are hostile to potatoes and aromatic herbs; Peach oppresses cherry, pear and apple trees. They need to be planted further away from each other. Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce; Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage; Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnips, peas, beets, parsley, apple, red cabbage; Tomatoes are suppressed by potatoes and turnips.
Every plant needs different quantities nutrients from soil. It is necessary to take into account crop rotation - alternating crops during sowing to obtain higher yields.
When plants are grown for a long time in one area, specific pathogens, pests, weeds can develop, and the soil can become depleted. It is necessary to properly organize crop rotation so that the effect of rotation is only positive.
The interaction of vegetables in garden beds is studied by a special science - allelopathy.. Each plant is distinguished in environment different substances, which have a positive or negative effect on nearby planted crops. Experienced gardeners Be sure to monitor mixed plantings.
The following points depend on the compatibility of cultures:
- saving space on the site;
- avoiding soil depletion;
- increase in harvest quality;
- lack of additional fertilizing with fertilizers;
- improving the taste qualities of grown crops;
- spending the least amount of effort on treating plants against pests.
Crop rotation and mixed plantings are regulated by specially designed patterns of plant rotation on plots, as well as time periods for organizing crops.
After what vegetables can radishes be sown?
To decide on the predecessor plants after which radishes can be effectively planted, you need to know how compatible the vegetables will be with the ecosystem that is already organized in the garden beds as a result of growing another crop. Root crops need lighting good humidity(60 to 70%), fertile soil structure, nutrients.
It is recommended to plant radishes in the beds after harvesting early potatoes., when the soil contains a small concentration of nitrogen, which will prevent the tops from developing too much, while the root crops will grow powerfully. But it is worth considering that there is less potassium in the soil, and it is necessary for growing beautiful vegetables with bright colors. This nutrient is replenished by planting oats or additional fertilizing.
Excellent predecessors for radishes will be pumpkins, cucumbers, zucchini, and herbs. A good help is making organic fertilizers when growing such vegetables. It is permissible to plant root crops after harvesting tomatoes and beans.
Should not be allowed after growing rutabaga, cabbage, radish or turnips due to the presence of common risks of pests and diseases with these crops. It is highly undesirable to plant root crops after harvesting the peas.
Next to what will the plant feel good on the site?
The root crop grows well next to bush beans. Such a neighbor has a good effect on the taste and size of radishes and protects the plantings from cabbage flies and worms. It is recommended to plant root crops 14 days earlier than bush beans.
To get a large-fruited harvest, you need to plant watercress and nasturtium in a joint garden bed. It is useful to place radishes next to cucumbers, parsnips, strawberries, grapes, strawberries, as they have a beneficial effect on these crops. In mixed crops, root vegetables go well with parsley and carrots.
You cannot plant radishes next to chard beets, onions, fennel, rhubarb, and hyssop.
What should I plant after radishes in the summer next year?
Vitamin-rich root crops are planted from spring throughout the summer season(depending on the ripeness of the variety), preparing the soil in advance in the fall. It is not recommended to sow in June due to the long daylight hours, as the plants may go into overdrive and not produce a harvest.
Radishes fully ripen in 20 to 40 days; after collecting the vegetables, gardeners begin preparing the site for other crops. If mixed plantings were done, then more space was simply left on the site for crops to grow.
After harvesting, root crops are not planted in the same beds:
- cabbage vegetables;
- rutabaga;
- radish;
- radish;
- carrot.
- legumes;
- tomatoes;
- potato;
- onion;
- zucchini;
- greenery.
You can plant melons, but only if the area of the allocated plot allows you to grow large crops. Eggplants grow well after radishes.
As for the next summer season, it is necessary to plan plantings taking into account what was grown in the beds after the radishes were harvested. For example, if potatoes were planted after harvesting early root crops, then it is appropriate to cultivate cucumbers, pumpkin, garlic, zucchini, and beans for the next season. Vegetables from the Cruciferous (Cabbage) family should definitely not be planted for several years.
Is it possible to plant vegetables in the same area?
Experts do not recommend planting the same vegetables in the same area.. Radishes do not deplete the soil, but you should not re-sow the same types of crops in one place to prevent plants from being damaged by pests and diseases. It's better to take a break for 3 years. A win-win– planting greenery after radishes:
- onion for feather;
- dill;
- parsley;
- some types of salads.
You can replace planting root crops pumpkin crops, zucchini, tomatoes, onions, peas, eggplants.
Consequences of breaking compatibility
By violating the rules of plant compatibility in garden beds, you may encounter a number of problems. These include:
- Inconveniences in caring for crops, when the width of the beds does not exceed one meter, in the absence of division of plantings according to ripening time, height, lighting conditions (read more about how many days radishes sprout after sowing and how to speed up the process).
- Soil depletion due to unaccounted crop rotation dates, excluding the planting of green manure to enrich the soil in vacant areas.
- Receiving unripe or low-quality vegetables, planting the same or related plants in a row in one area.
When planting root crops in beds where radishes, cabbage, horseradish, and radishes were harvested, holes begin to eat through the tops cruciferous flea beetle, greens wither, vegetables do not gain the required weight, and stop growing. In this case, the leaves must be treated with a solution of tobacco dust, adding 2 cups of the substance to a mixture of 50 g laundry soap and 10 liters of water.
When planting radishes near other cruciferous crops, you can get infected with powdery mildew, which causes the plants to become deformed and slow down in growth. The plantings are treated with fungicides or Bordeaux mixture.
The abundance of weeds in the area can lead to clubroot infestation, when growths form on root crops due to an acidic soil environment. The roots of the plants turn brown and rot. The disease is eliminated by watering with lime milk.
Taking into account the rules of crop compatibility when sowing, you can avoid problems related to the cultivation of radishes, simplify the care of plantings, and maintain high-quality composition soil in garden beds, get big harvest delicious vegetables.
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Every summer resident knows well that if you plant the same crops in one place for several years in a row, then even under seemingly identical conditions of care, every year they become more and more frail and bear fruit less and less. This phenomenon is caused by soil depletion, which in turn is explained by a number of factors.
The importance of proper crop planning
The first is that pathogens and all kinds of pests accumulate in the soil. For example, potatoes are known to be a favorite delicacy Colorado beetles. If the plantation of this crop does not change location for several years, the pest does not need to migrate in search of food - after wintering, it immediately finds itself in favorable conditions and immediately begins to destroy the plant. In addition to the Colorado potato beetle, planting potatoes contributes to the accumulation of late blight pathogens in the soil, as well as the larvae of click beetles and moths.
With other cultures the situation develops according to the same pattern. In a plot planted with the same crop, the number of those pests will increase from year to year., which are dangerous specifically for it and, accordingly, it will be more and more difficult for the plant to withstand such an invasion. Cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, beans, and lettuce especially suffer from this factor. 
The second is increasing concentration harmful substances, secreted by the roots of a particular culture (the so-called colins) and which are toxic to this culture itself. Some plants are very sensitive to the effects of such poisons (for example, beets and spinach), others are more resistant (carrots, pumpkin, radishes, parsley), and others almost do not react to colins (legumes, leeks, corn). In addition, different plants emit different amounts of such harmful substances, for example, there are especially many of them in the soil after cucumbers, carrots and cabbage.
The third is the depletion of nutrients in the soil. Each crop has its own set of nutrients necessary for normal development. It is clear that it is precisely these that such a plant will try to extract from the soil. For example, if cabbage really needs potassium, then after planting it, less and less of this element will remain in the soil, while, say, after radishes, potassium reserves are not depleted so rapidly.
It is easy to understand that the situation can be corrected by correctly alternating the crops planted on the site from year to year. This procedure is called crop rotation and is a whole science. However, if you don’t have time to engage in complex theoretical preparation, it is enough to learn a few fundamental rules, and the harvest on your plot will always be equally abundant.
Rule #1
It is impossible to plant not only the same crop one after another for several years in a row, but also close relatives (representatives of the same species), since they, as a rule, have common pests, react similarly to toxins and consume the same composition of micronutrients.
Rule #2
The average period during which the soil must rest after a certain crop is two years(one year is usually not enough for complete recovery), but for some plants this period is much longer. So, carrots, cucumbers, parsley, beets should not return to their original place for at least 4 years, but for cabbage it is better to withstand all 7 years! These periods can be increased, but it is not advisable to decrease them.
Rule #3
Plants tend not only to consume microelements from the soil, but also to enrich it with certain useful substances and properties. Therefore, correct rotation of crops can not only preserve the elements that are especially necessary for the plant, but also improve the composition and structure of the soil without additional procedures. For example, legumes loosen the soil and enrich it with many minerals. Melon and buckwheat saturate the soil with calcium, datura grass with phosphorus, tobacco with potassium, stinging nettle- iron. Knowing these simple rules and taking into account the need various types crops in certain microelements, you can easily plan crops for several years in advance. By the way, the indicated properties of the listed crops can be used more fully by placing them in compost after harvesting.
The same rule applies to pests. There are crops that are not only resistant to certain diseases, but also repel their pathogens. For example, aphids do not tolerate plants such as garlic or tobacco. The Colorado potato beetle is afraid of thyme. If you plant such orderlies after plants exposed to these pests, there is good opportunity expel them from the site, freeing it up for planting in subsequent years.
Rule #4
The need of plants for nutrients is not the same. Crops that are too demanding on soil composition should not be planted one after the other. It is more correct to plant legumes in the garden after such a crop or add the necessary layer of fertilizers.
Thus, correct alternation of crops will avoid unilateral depletion of the same elements in the soil, an increase in the concentration of certain types of pests and pathogenic bacteria in it, as well as an uneven load on the soil of the same root system of plants.
Another reason that makes it necessary to rotate crops on a site is weed control. There are plants that are sensitive to such proximity (for example, garlic, onions, carrots, parsley, parsnips); it is better to plant them after those crops that leave behind a minimal amount of weeds. Such plants include tomatoes, peas, potatoes, and cabbage.
What to plant next
So, we have found out that crop rotation is a necessary and quite economical technique that allows you to maintain soil fertility and ensure a uniformly high yield. But since the needs of different crops for microelements, fertilizers and other conditions are different, knowledge general rules and principles does not always allow you to correctly determine which plants to alternate in what sequence on your site.
Did you know? There are two simple rules drawing up the order of landings. Firstly, you should not alternate representatives of the same family. For example, both tomatoes and potatoes are nightshades; both carrots and dill are umbelliferous. Secondly, the plants in which they are eaten should be alternated among themselves. top part, with those where the root is valuable (“tops and roots”). You must understand that this is a rather primitive rule, and it should be used only if more accurate information could not be found for one reason or another.
What to plant next in the beds can be found out from numerous tables developed by agronomists and amateurs. For those who don't want to study theory and are looking for simple answers to questions about specific crops, below are some tips on which vegetables can be planted after which. What can you plant after cabbage?
Cabbage is susceptible to many pests and diseases, therefore, answering the question of what to plant after cabbage next year, any gardener will confidently say: not cabbage, even if we're talking about about its other types! This is the worst option imaginable, but if there is no other option, the soil must be very well fertilized with compost.
Cabbage as a predecessor is not suitable for crops such as radish, rutabaga and turnips, since these plants are favorite food for the same pests.
It is ideal to plant onions or garlic after cabbage. Carrots, celery, potatoes, beets, cucumbers, and tomatoes are also allowed. Cabbage also gets along well with these vegetables in the neighborhood, since in this case it is less damaged by diseases and harmful insects. But you shouldn’t plant cabbage next to tomatoes, beans, parsley and tomatoes. 
Potatoes, radishes, cucumbers, carrots, peas, onions, garlic, as well as annual herbs are considered good predecessors of cabbage.
What to plant after garlic
It is not recommended to plant garlic, as well as onions, for a long time in the same place, or alternate with each other. What can be planted after garlic in the garden are potatoes, especially early ripening ones. Tomatoes, cucumbers, legumes, beets or cabbage are also acceptable options.
But it is best to plant annual herbs after garlic and onions, which are intended to restore the soil for later use, replenish its mineral reserves and destroy weeds. Mustard, phacelia, some varieties of green peas, rye, and rapeseed work well in this role.
What to plant after cucumbers
Cucumbers are much more demanding on soil composition than many other crops. Before planting, the soil is usually especially carefully fertilized with both organic matter and mineral supplements. It follows that after cucumbers next year you should plant something less picky. For example, cabbage, which also requires fertile soil, is absolutely not suitable for these purposes. They feel good in an area where cucumbers and various root vegetables grew - beets, radishes, turnips, carrots, parsley, celery. In order to improve the composition of the soil, legumes can be planted after the cucumbers and only after that other vegetable crops can be used, for example, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, corn, lettuce.
Important! The soil is fertile not only due to the presence of a certain set of microelements in it. A necessary condition is also the creation natural complex all kinds of microorganisms and various types of organic substances. Therefore, a big mistake is the belief among summer residents that it is possible to restore depleted soil by thoughtlessly dumping a bucket of compost on the garden bed and watering it on top with complex mineral fertilizer purchased at the nearest supermarket.
What to plant after strawberries
Strawberries tend to greatly deplete the soil, so immediately after replanting them (and it is better to do this once every four years), the bed where they grew must be carefully fed with mineral and organic fertilizers. It is better to do this right in the fall, thoroughly digging the soil after adding additives to it.
Strawberries consume especially a lot of nitrogen, so it is best to plant beans, peas and other legumes after them - they, as mentioned, enrich the soil with this element.
The antifungal and phytoncidal properties of garlic make it a good helper to cleanse the soil of pests remaining in it after strawberries. Along with the garlic, you can also plant parsley, celery and other aromatic herbs here to drive slugs away from the garden.
Actually, this limits the planting options for the year following strawberries. But after the above crops, you can plant any vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, pumpkin, etc.
Important! Raspberries and strawberries should not be alternated with each other, as these plants have similar pests.
It would be nice to set up a flower garden on the site of a former strawberry bed. Perennial peonies, daffodils, tulips and violets will help the soil recover from the berries that have depleted it.
What to plant after potatoes
Potatoes, unlike strawberries, consume a lot of potassium and phosphorus, so the soil after harvesting the tubers lacks these elements. You can make up for the loss with mineral fertilizers, or you can plant annual grasses that generate potassium and phosphorus. This role can be performed by datura grass, mustard, oats, peas, rapeseed, and phacelia.
If it is not possible to completely clear the area after potatoes for a whole year, you can plant a pumpkin on it. Other crops require prior application mineral fertilizers to restore soil fertility. However, as mentioned above, tomatoes, eggplants and other nightshade crops cannot be planted after potatoes. The same applies to pepper.
It’s good to make the same pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, cabbage, and onions as predecessors to potatoes.
What to plant after tomatoes
We decided that after tomatoes we should not plant eggplants, potatoes and peppers. As with other cultures, After tomatoes, it is ideal to plant annuals that will fill the soil with the missing elements. If you don’t have the opportunity for such luxury, it doesn’t matter! Peas, beans and other legumes will help replenish the lack of nitrogen in the soil; cabbage will also do well in the bed where tomatoes grew, since the pests of these crops are different. There are no contraindications for planting cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, carrots, beets, green salads, onions, and garlic. In addition, tomatoes are the little thing after which you can plant carrots.
What to plant after beets
The choice of what can be planted after beets next year is quite large. Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades are suitable for these purposes, but before planting, the soil must be well fed with humus or peat. You can also plant garlic and onions. A good option is also a carrot. By the way, the predecessors of carrots in the garden, in addition to beets and the tomatoes mentioned above, are also cucumbers, onions, garlic and cabbage.
The above crops also work in reverse order, that is, regarding what is the best time to plant beets. To this list you can add cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, lettuce, herbs - parsley, dill, celery.
What can you plant after pepper?
The root system of sweet pepper is located in upper layers soil, so after it it is best to plant crops with deeper roots. These can be root vegetables (radish, radish, beets, carrots), except potatoes, as well as onions, garlic, cucumbers, beans and greens.
You cannot plant any crops of the nightshade family after pepper. Myself Bell pepper can be planted after peas, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, beets, and celery.
What can you plant after peas?
Peas, as mentioned above, are a good predecessor for many crops. Thus, the ability of this plant to enrich the soil with nitrogen will have a particularly beneficial effect on the harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, beets, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin, melon, as well as various types of cabbage.
However, peas have one unpleasant feature: it is very susceptible to fungal diseases and root rot, especially in conditions high humidity. Therefore, if a crop affected by such a disease grew on the site, neither peas nor other legumes should be planted in this place next year. Spores of such diseases can persist in the soil for 5-6 years, so during this entire period it is better to use the garden bed for crops that are less susceptible to these diseases.
What to plant next: table of predecessors of vegetable crops when planting
Regarding desirable and undesirable precursors of specific vegetable crops, there are great amount general and specific rules, summarized for clarity in various tables. They can be consulted whenever planning appropriate rotations.
For example, you can group crop rotation rules as follows:
| Culture | Good predecessor | Possible predecessor | Bad predecessor |
| Legumes, cucumbers, cabbage | Carrots, beets, onions | Nightshades (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers) | |
| Garlic, onion | Potatoes, carrots, legumes, cucumbers | Cabbage, tomatoes, beets | Onion, garlic, pepper, physalis |
| Tomatoes | Cabbage (especially cauliflower), carrots, onions, cucumbers, greens | Any nightshade, physalis | |
| Pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin) | Legumes, nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes), cabbage, onions | Beets, greens | Any pumpkin |
| Legumes (peas, beans, beans) | Strawberries, cucumber, potatoes, cabbage, | Tomatoes | Perennial herbs |
| Carrot | Onion, cucumber | Radishes, beets, cabbage | |
| Greenery | Cabbage, cucumbers | Legumes, potatoes, tomatoes, onions | Carrots, parsnips, celery |
| Eggplant | Legumes, turnips, rutabaga, cucumber, cabbage, onions, melons | Solanaceae | |
| Pepper | Turnips, carrots, cucumbers, cabbage, rutabaga, legumes, | Onion garlic | Nightshades, pumpkin |
| Potatoes, cucumber, onion | Legumes, tomatoes | Carrot | |
| Legumes, nightshades, onions, garlic | Lettuce, corn | Pumpkins, rutabaga, carrots, turnips, radishes, turnips |
Thus, by turning to such tips, you can always clarify what to do next, for example, to plant onions or what to sow the bed where tomatoes grew.
However, not only tables, but also firmly understood rules will help you correctly identify the predecessors of vegetables when planting.
Important! Categorically bad predecessors are: beets, radishes, turnips and radishes for cabbage (and vice versa); carrots, tomatoes and cabbage - for onions, beans - for carrots and cucumbers, carrots for cucumbers and beets.
But after what you can plant carrots and other root vegetables, it’s after garlic or onions. Also, root vegetables grow well after greens and vice versa.
Neighboring cultures
In addition to answering the question of what to plant next, it is also equally important to know what to plant with what, that is, which crops can and cannot be planted next to each other. The fact is that plants have an influence on each other, which can be both positive and negative. Knowing the basic rules, you can avoid mistakes and solve many problems that prevent you from obtaining a stable harvest.
For example, as stated above, root system plants release toxic substances that protect the crop from diseases and pests. Moreover, such poisons can harm neighboring plants, or, on the contrary, they can provide them with additional protection. Thus, colins secreted by mustard have a beneficial effect on peas, carrots and garlic, but are poorly tolerated by cabbage. Knowing this feature, it is easy to determine what you can plant peas with and what you should not plant cabbage with.
What crops are best to plant in the neighborhood?
So, joint plantings - important rule crop rotation, which allows optimal use of the limited space of the site, as well as improving crop yields. 
For example, potatoes and beans are wonderful neighbors. It protects it from such a pest as the weevil, and it replenishes its need for nitrogen and repels the Colorado potato beetle. In addition to beans, it is useful to place cabbage, corn, spinach, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, radish, dill, and lettuce next to potatoes. All these plants have a beneficial effect on the potato harvest by removing excess moisture from the soil. And onions and garlic planted nearby protect potatoes from late blight.
By the way, garlic has a beneficial effect on many crops, so there are plenty of options for what to plant it with. Strawberries are considered a classic, since these plants are equally useful for each other: garlic protects capricious strawberries from diseases and pests, and the berry helps the formation of more cloves in garlic. Enzymes secreted by carrots have the same effect on the plant: under their influence, the garlic bulb becomes larger.
Did you know? If you plant garlic and horseradish next to each other, the amount of vitamin C increases in both.
From various diseases and pests (aphids, mole crickets, Chafer) garlic saves not only vegetable crops, for example, tomatoes, beets, cucumbers, carrots, but also flowers - gladioli, carnations, roses, etc. But garlic itself can be protected from the dangerous onion fly by calendula and chicory.
Dill and corn are something that can be planted next to cucumbers, carrots get along well with peas, and peas themselves - with potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants. It is better to plant melons separately.
Other rules regarding what to plant with what in the beds can be presented in the form of a table:
| Culture | ||
| beans | cucumbers, potatoes, cabbage, lettuce, radishes, beets, tomatoes, eggplants, melons | peas, garlic, onion |
| peas | cabbage, lettuce, carrots, radishes | beans, potatoes, garlic, onions, tomatoes |
| strawberries | garlic, onion, lettuce, radish | |
| cucumbers | beans, garlic, cabbage, lettuce, celery, onion, greens | tomatoes, radishes, potatoes, zucchini |
| potato | beans, onions, garlic, cabbage, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, dill, lettuce | tomatoes, peas, sunflowers |
| cabbage | peas, cucumbers, potatoes, lettuce, radishes, beets | garlic, onion, tomatoes |
| beet | cucumbers, salad | onion, cabbage |
| tomatoes | garlic, cabbage, lettuce, leek | peas, cucumbers, potatoes |
| onion | strawberries, cucumbers, lettuce, carrots, beets | beans, cabbage, tomatoes |
| pepper | cucumbers, kohlrabi | tomatoes, legumes |
| zucchini | legumes, beets, onions | cucumbers |
"Neighbors are enemies"
As can be seen from the table above, in addition to a successful neighborhood, there is also an extremely undesirable neighborhood. As a rule, plants “are at enmity” due to the incompatibility of the substances they secrete. For example, black walnut has a depressant effect on most vegetables due to the juglone it produces. Vegetables are also not good in the vicinity of wormwood. If you plant legumes and onions nearby, both will develop poorly. Literally all crops feel depressed with fennel, so it is better to plant this plant separately from others. Potatoes and cucumbers, tomatoes and strawberries are also poorly compatible. 
Eggplants and tomatoes do not like the proximity of other nightshades; peppers and beets, cabbage and strawberries do not get along side by side.
Did you know? I wonder what is beautiful and loved by everyone conifer tree, like spruce, has adverse effects on almost all trees, and these effects persist for decades after the spruce itself is cut down.
Sometimes it happens that plants have different effects on each other depending on their number. As they say, there is medicine in a spoon, and poison in a cup. In this case, you can arrange the proximity of such a crop in small quantities, for example, along the edge of a garden bed. For example, such an experiment can be carried out with valerian, yarrow or nettle, planting them in small groups near vegetables.
Thus, it is important for any gardener to know what to plant next, and proper planning of crops when planting is a way to protect the soil from depletion and help plants naturally support each other for better growth and development.
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What should I plant next? Competent crop planning
Crop rotation table
When planning future crops, you must first take into account order of crop rotation. This is very important for the future harvest. After all, correct crop rotation allows you to avoid damage by pests and diseases, as well as maintain soil fertility. Conversely, when growing the same vegetables for several years in a row, the supply of nutrients in the beds is depleted and soil infections accumulate.
Experienced gardeners always take this factor into account, which allows them to obtain higher yields. In order not to get confused in the “five hundred square meters”, it is worth drawing a plan of your garden for the coming summer and a rough planting plan for next year, observing correct order rotation of vegetable crops.
Cabbage
You cannot plant cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables (radishes, radishes) in the same place earlier than after 2-3 years. It is better to place white cabbage after potatoes, tomatoes, and onions; It is permissible to plant after beans, peas, carrots and beets.
Potato
The best predecessors for potatoes are cabbage and various root vegetables. A bad predecessor for potatoes is tomato, since these crops have common pests and pathogens. Potatoes should be grown in the same place no earlier than -3.
cucumbers
For cucumbers, you should look for a new place every year. They are placed after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also grow them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.
Tomatoes
According to the rules of agricultural technology, you cannot grow tomatoes after potatoes, since - we repeat - the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good predecessors for tomatoes are cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root vegetables and onions are acceptable.
If you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, then the soil in this area becomes acidic, so every autumn, before deep digging of the soil, you need to add fluff lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq.m.), so how tomatoes grow best in neutral soils (pH 6.5-7).
Beet
Growing beets in one place should be done no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes. It is not advisable to plant beets after vegetables from the goosefoot family (chard, spinach, and again beets). 
Onion
Onions should not be planted in one place for more than three or four years in a row. The best predecessors of onions are crops that received large doses of organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, and potatoes. On heavy clay soils onions won't work good harvest, it prefers light, loose, fertile soils and good light.
Garlic
You can grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise contamination of the soil with stem nematode cannot be avoided.
It is better to start garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early-harvested crops (except onions). 
Carrot
Sown after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.
Eggplant
The best predecessors for eggplants are cucumber, onion, early ripening cabbage, and perennial herbs. You cannot plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.
Strawberries
The best predecessors for strawberries: radishes, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radishes, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, as well as flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard and phacelia (also known as honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers, are not suitable as predecessors. After them, the plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.
Strawberry
It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radishes, peas, parsley, and garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as predecessors. Strawberries should not be placed after all species of the Asteraceae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of ranunculaceae.
Together is better
Many years of experience and ingenuity of gardeners suggested one more correct solution- joint plantings. This is both convenient and allows you to small area get a large assortment of vegetables. However, not all vegetables can be placed in close proximity, since not all crops have a beneficial effect on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatile substances released by plants.
Carrot can be planted together with peas, marjoram, and onions (this is even useful, since joint planting with onions repels the carrot fly). Bulb onions goes well with beets, chicory, and carrots. Peas and vegetable beans get along well with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon and watermelon. TO potatoes it is quite possible to plant vegetable beans and sweet corn, to cucumber- dill and corn, radishes will benefit from proximity to watercress, and peas - with leaf mustard.
It has been proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and black currants have a beneficial effect on each other. You can make the following bed: plant parsley, lettuce, and sow garlic between them.
As for the undesirable neighborhood, then can't be planted next to each other potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin. If legumes are placed next to onions, both crops will be suppressed.
In addition, if space allows, highlight small plot for growing trasiderates: clover, lupine, alfalfa and others. In this way, you will give the earth a rest and gain strength for growing vegetable crops.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this knowledge. By following the listed rules, you can get a lot!
After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshades (tomato, potato). Related plant crops (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases.
To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants are alternated depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate “tops” and “roots” (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).
After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.
After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.
After cucumbers, zucchini, and squash, the following are planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, and potatoes.
After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.
After strawberries (after 4 years) - root vegetables and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, you can plant any crops.
The best predecessors of main vegetable crops are:
for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions;
For early white cabbage and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, onions, legumes, root vegetables (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);
For medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potato, legumes, carrots, beets;
For onions on turnips - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;
For cucumber - early white cabbage and cauliflower, tomato, potato, legumes (except beans), root vegetables (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;
For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, which suffers from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);
For beets - cucumber and other pumpkins, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;
For potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, onions;
For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions, root vegetables, late cabbage;
For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;
Plant compatibility
Planting plants together, taking into account their compatibility, can significantly increase the yield. In case of incompatibility (suppression), yields are reduced.
Compatible plants :
The most favorable neighbors for beans are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, and spinach. Interspersing beans into the plantings of these plants improves the nitrogen supply of the latter. Fragrant basil, planted next to the beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.
Radishes and oilseed radishes have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.
Relationships of mutual assistance have been observed in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels the pea moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.
Strawberries are favorably influenced by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley planted between strawberry rows repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, and garlic. Among herbs, borage (orygrass) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil during fruit formation with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries;
White cabbage prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes as neighbors.
Dill planted between rows of cabbage improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from flea beetles and cabbage flies, but its smell attracts cabbage whites, which means it is undesirable to place them together.
It is also beneficial for cabbage to be near cucumber grass, which has a good effect on cabbage and, with its hard, hairy leaves, drives away snails.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the flea beetle.
Cabbage is in dire need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on its leaves. This role can be performed by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, and sage around cabbage plantings.
Leeks repel cutworm caterpillars.
It is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtiums, and marigolds in the cabbage rows - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, and white flies.
Parsnips attract predatory insects that destroy the caterpillars.
Head lettuce, onion, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.
Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. The potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans provide nitrogen to the potatoes. The above plants complement each other advantageously, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, they suffer less and grow in one place for many years, with stable yields. Potatoes are partial to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, and garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between potato rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower, corn, radishes and various types of lettuce. Horseradish planted in bushes around the potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.
Corn is a nutritionally demanding plant, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is a support. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, and lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. From an allelopathy point of view, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes and sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soybean protects corn from bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - beets and celery
Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel the onion fly, and onions repel the carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, and parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is beneficial for onion growth; chamomile also works well on it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per linear meter of the bed).
By placing onions and garlic as separate plants next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions do not go well with beans, peas, or beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.
Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.
Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are also friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, garlic, radishes and radishes, but are not compatible with cabbage.
The root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the bed make carrots healthier.
Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.
Under sea buckthorn, strawberries or medicinal herbs are grown: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.
Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but avoid grapevines. If you sow dill between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, and parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.
The nut has no compatible crops;
Spring garlic and dill will help tomatoes. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To repel codling moth butterflies and protect pear and apple trees from scab, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;
Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach;
Lettuce repels flea beetles from radishes, radishes, and cabbage;
Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. Nasturtium and watercress also contribute to this.
Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;
Celery prefers its neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, cabbage
Currants are not damaged by bud mites if onions are planted between the bushes and left in the ground for the winter.
Soybean is friendly with all crops.
Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against nematodes.
Beans, squash and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds by shading the soil with its leaves, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, and beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, since they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting.
Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides, prevents the spread of pests and diseases.
If you plant marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory between rows of potatoes or onions, and plow bunches of rye straw into the soil, they will protect these crops from damage by nematodes. Marigolds, leaf mustard, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.
If you make a border of marigolds around the area where the roses are planted, nematode damage to the roses will become impossible.
Parsley will drive away ants, and it also heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.
Tansy cinerarifolia, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage cutworm and white moth caterpillars, and the apple tree from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and the closely related red tansy. These plants are also known as Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.
The following go well with salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;
Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, and sugar beets. It is useful to plant other crops with beans, as it helps get rid of the meadow borer.
Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, black leg, black spot and fusarium, and reduces the incidence of gray rot in carnations.
Apple - raspberry
Stevia (Honey Herb) - can grow next to garlic and onions, even in flower pot, on the window.
Celery, dill, onions, carrots well planted nearby. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.
Incompatible plants:
Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;
Peas - incompatible with rutabaga, beans, and tomatoes;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;
Combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, rutabaga, and beans are unfavorable;
Wormwood has a bad effect on peas;
The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;
Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage does not combine with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from nearby growing grapes;
Tansy has a bad effect on kale.
Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight);
Potatoes are suppressed by: cherry, apple, raspberry, rowan, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkins;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;
Bad neighbors for corn are beets and celery;
Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted next to each other (damage from the gooseberry moth);
Onions do not go well with beans, peas, beans (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.
Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this promotes the proliferation of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;
Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshades - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;
Cucumbers are overwhelmed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers are hostile to potatoes and aromatic herbs;
Peach oppresses cherry, pear and apple trees. They need to be planted away from each other.
Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;
Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnips, peas, beets, parsley, apple, red cabbage; Tomatoes are suppressed by potatoes and turnips.
Radish - spinach;
Radish's enemy is hyssop;
The salad is incompatible with leaf mustard;
Beets do not get along well with potatoes, spinach, and corn;
Poplar is very aggressive - many people suffocate in its fumes cultivated plants(apple tree, corn);
Pumpkin - potatoes;
Beans - suppressed by shallots;
Fennel inhibits almost all cultivated plants.
Effect of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, marigold has a bad effect on beans, wormwood has a bad effect on beans and peas, and tansy has a bad effect on kale;