What is better for insulating a wooden house: foam or caulk. What to use instead of tow? Polymer seals Negative sides of fum tape

Everyday life Quite often it forces a person to carry out minor repairs, during which rewinding is required. This could be a radiator, as well as plumbing fixtures. Every House master must learn to use tow correctly, as it will be useful to him sooner or later. can be made of metal, plastic, metal-plastic or nylon; each type of material has adapters for connecting other pipes. Such connections will be discussed below.

For reference

Quite often, home craftsmen have to decide how to wind flax onto the tap thread. If you want to hermetically connect the elements of the water supply and pipes, then perform work called packing. If it is necessary to pack two pipes at right angles using a coupling, it is best to cut threads at their ends. The coupling will contain internal thread and outer turns. Twisting them will not be enough; for a proper connection, the threads must be sealed.

Description of flax tow

Before wrapping flax on threads, you should become more familiar with the flax fiber material used to seal threads. The product is natural, it is made from primary processing thin, uniform and long-fiber flax. The area of ​​use of flax tow is very wide. Depending on the manufacturing technology, the material can be tape, plumbing, jute or construction. In the latter case we're talking about about insulation, which can ensure reliable tightness of almost any connections. For its production, fully combed fibers are used, which are supplied in bales. This material is used for construction work for sealing seams, insulating the log house and laying wooden elements. It is natural, which is especially valued among those who build wooden houses. If construction tow is supplied in rolls, then it is called tape. This material is also used for caulking seams in log houses and laying crowns. The advantage of using flax is its cost. The material is much cheaper compared to any other. It is consumed economically; the fibers, although thin, have high strength. If you wind them correctly, they can be used for any type of work where any connections are used. These can be ceramic and cast iron pipes.

Additional benefits

Before you wrap flax on threads, you should know that it swells as it absorbs moisture. This allows you to increase the tightness, because the leakage has no paths. The mechanical stability of the material is quite high; it is this characteristic that makes it possible to adjust plumbing fixtures without losing the hermetic properties; connections can be unscrewed a full turn or half a turn.

Disadvantages of using flax

If you are thinking about how to wind flax on a thread, you should first become familiar with all the disadvantages of this material. The base material is organic, so it can rot when exposed to air and moisture. They can get inside during routine examinations. For this, tow is accompanied by additional material that can prevent rotting processes. This can be oil paint, sealing paste, lithol or solid oil.

In some cases, it is necessary to prepare the threads before winding, and if the material is laid in too thick a layer, this can cause damage to the connections, which is especially true for brass and bronze. If you are faced with the question of how to wind flax on a thread, you must remember that the seal being described requires the master to know the rules for winding. Related materials in combination with flax can significantly complicate disassembly, this applies to silicone or oil paint. Sometimes such additions make the installation process impossible. Flax is not suitable for use where temperatures can reach 90 °C. In such places, the material is welded and loses its sealing qualities. If you work with steel, you should definitely follow the winding technology. Otherwise, the threads may be subject to corrosion.

Winding flax onto a new thread

Before winding flax onto the thread, if it is new, you should prepare the turns. Many manufacturers today produce fittings that are already threaded, but the latter have notches that are intended for winding flax. The fact is that on a smooth thread the material can slip, it bunches up into a bunch, which leads to a violation of the seal. In order for the fibers to be able to hook, the turns must have serrations. If necessary, you can apply them with a file, a hacksaw or a file. Some craftsmen use a plumber's wrench or pliers: grasp the threads, and then apply notches with light pressure.

The main thing in this work is to achieve roughness on the turns. Before winding flax onto the thread, it is necessary to separate one strand from the whole braid. It is important to capture enough fibers so that the winding is not very thin, but it should not be thick either. Experts advise using a linen thickness that corresponds to two or one match. If there are lumps in the strands, they need to be removed, as well as small villi.

Work methodology

You can apply tow according to own technology, some experts twist it into a rope, some braid it into a loose braid, while others put it in the form of a loose thread. The order in which additional material is applied may also vary. In some cases, you can lubricate the thread by wrapping it with fibers, and then apply another layer. Sometimes the fibers are pre-impregnated and then prepared. Both options are considered correct. If you are thinking about how to wind flax on a thread - clockwise or counterclockwise - then you can listen to the recommendations of experts, some of them wind the strands along the thread, others do the opposite. In this case, the end of the strand should be clamped with a finger outside the turns, the first turn should form a cross, this will allow the material to be fixed. There should be no gaps, you need to lay one turn to another. If you are making a connection, then excess material will be squeezed out of the fitting, this is true if you are working with iron pipe and a steel coupling. Brass connections, which is important for those that are manufactured according to modern technologies, burst under strong pressure.

Around the wound flax it is necessary to apply plumbing paste or any other sealing material, the movements must be rotational. The work should be as neat as possible. The second end should be glued closer to the edge of the thread, and before tightening, you need to check whether the pipe hole is filled with sealing material. Now you know, you can see photos of these works in the article. However, from them you will not be able to understand that it is necessary to tighten the elements with moderate force. If the nut goes easily, then little flax was put in. The winding will be correct if the material does not come out and the surfaces around the joint remain clean. For gas connections It is not recommended to use organic tow, this is due to the fact that under the influence of gas it and the silicone, which is used additionally, are destroyed. Here it is most appropriate to use fum tape.

Winding flax on ecoplastic products

If you are thinking about how to wind flax on a thread, then you can use the technology that is used in the case of working on ecoplastic products. This material, like brass, can burst. The main thing is not to overdo it. Before starting work, both fittings should be connected and the number of revolutions counted. The flax is wound evenly, its surface is coated additional material, only then can the fittings be connected. If at idle you counted 5 revolutions, then after winding the tape it is best to make about 4.5 revolutions, but you do not need to reach the end. In this case, it is more advisable to use packaging paste instead of sealant.

Conclusion

Quite often, home craftsmen wonder how to wind flax onto a pipe thread. In this case, you should dismantle the connection and inspect the thread. You need to go through the coils with the tip of a knife or an awl; this method will allow you to get rid of accumulated debris. Before winding the tape, use a wire brush to clean the coils until you see a shine.

Many owners wooden houses are asking the question: “Why and when should caulking be removed and replaced with new insulating material?” We answer.

Materials such as tow, linen, felt have a very limited period suitability. Both tow and flax fiber can absorb moisture over time, become a haven for insect larvae, and significantly decrease in volume (due to the same larvae that simply eat the “natural” caulk). It is clear that such caulking ceases to perform its main functions, namely to preserve wooden house optimal microclimate, protect your home from drafts and wind. Here is the answer to the question: “Why remove caulk?” Then to reseal wooden building using modern, higher quality and durable materials.

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question about the timing of replacing caulk, since many factors come into play here. How long ago was the house caulked? What material exactly? Was the caulking done by experienced professionals or was it done by hand? We still want to give you a few useful tips regarding replacement timing old caulking new material.

  1. If you are going to thoroughly restore a wooden house, for example, make repairs to it, replace some logs, insulate it from the inside or outside, it is better to immediately take care of dismantling the old tow.
  2. Has your house become uncomfortable and cold, it’s unclear where the drafts are coming from, can you hear the “whistle” of the wind in the cracks? This means that the time has come to remove the caulk, since it is precisely because of its ineffective operation that the home is exposed to atmospheric factors.

How to remove caulk?

Removing old caulking is not so much a complicated process as it is labor-intensive. What exactly is a caulked seam? This is the gap into which during finishing works sealing material was tightly compacted, for example, the same tow. Please note: they did not glue, did not screw, but rather “pushed”. Naturally, it will be relatively simple to remove the caulking of a log house, which has also served its purpose, decreased in volume, and crumbled. For this you will need any handy tool, for example, chisel, iron ruler, nail, sharp hook, etc. Take it in your hands, put on safety glasses to prevent small particles of old oakum from getting into your eyes, and feel free to get down to business.

The second way to remove the old one insulating material simpler, but financially less profitable. You can simply contact any of construction companies performing various dismantling work, and qualified specialists will quickly and efficiently prepare your home for further finishing work.

Whichever of these two methods you choose, do not forget that the caulk should be removed very carefully: not a piece of tow should remain in the seams, which could cause a breakdown in the adhesion between the wood and the new thermal insulation material.

Caulking of wooden houses with tow, flax, etc. carried out in several stages, the seams must be caulked at least twice with an interval of 1-1.5 years. Dismantling of the old material should be carried out in full, removing both the rough caulk and its final “top” layer.

How to replace caulk?

Once old thermal insulation material will be completely removed, the seams in the wooden house must be resealed. Of course, you can caulk the house again, again using tow or flax fiber, but is it worth doing this, because after some time you will have to remove everything again. It is much more expedient to use special wood sealants for sealing and thermal insulation of seams, which are not susceptible to atmospheric influences, are not afraid of moisture and insects, and are environmentally friendly. Another important advantage of sealants is their durability. So, for example, the predicted service life acrylic sealant Accent-136 is a minimum of 25 years, which means that you definitely won’t have to remove it and reseal the seams after 3-4 years.

forum member

I made it through all 12 pages! A lot has been written... Actually, everything that could be said for and against has already been said.
My 5 cents: time-tested tow definitely better sealant. Let it be at least a super-duper imported technology. It’s already been written, but still, wood is a “living” material that constantly gains and releases moisture. There are a lot of examples to prove this, somehow swollen wooden doors, windows, drying floors. It is impossible to completely dry the tree. It will still take moisture from the atmosphere.
As for sealant as a substitute for tow between the crowns of a log house, IMHO it’s nonsense and a waste of money. No matter how super flexible it is, in some places it will still move away from the logs, moisture will somehow get into the formed micro-cracks, but it will take a very long time to get out of there because the sealant does not “breathe”, unlike tow.
Why tempt fate, I don’t understand?
No matter how many times I looked at old houses while dismantling them, the condition of the logs was very good, some were generally perfect. Everything is covered in moss and tow. Houses stacked up traditional way cost 100 years or more. I suggest looking at the condition of the logs with sealant instead of oakum in at least 30-40 years. Are those who are actively promoting sealants here ready to guarantee the same safety of logs as with caulking?
By the way, about caulking 2-3 or more times and generally throughout your life - this is powerfully said =)
If the log house is well-built, it is enough to caulk it once (provided that the one who caulks it knows how to do it).

  • Participant

    Why don’t you wear bast shoes? time-tested environmentally friendly technology! Why don't you ride horses? Time-tested, environmentally friendly technology! But you don’t do all this because in terms of comfort, manufacturability, efficiency and performance characteristics, good modern shoes and a car are superior to bast shoes and horses!

    I still don’t understand what yours has to do with this, what is it said in what context? why refuse wood in decoration? Well then the log house is not for you at all.

    "No matter how super flexible it is, in some places it will still move away from the logs"
    Do you know how much more it will cost you to heat your home? winter conditions on your caulk? Much more expensive.

    I’m not a seller of sealants, and I can’t tell you how quickly they serve, and what tests they passed, but if I find out the information, I’ll post it. But it is a fact that the energy efficiency of caulked houses is lower and heat loss is higher. And over the 100 years you are talking about, these zatarats will cover the cost of a new house. The average house is 150 square meters per month in heating season will eat up about 7-8 thousand rubles. In case of sealing good material costs will be halved (the experience of my friend from Yekaterinburg uses one Thermex gas boiler to heat his old house, which is 70-80 years old with an area of ​​about 80 sq. m., and a new one built next to it with an area of ​​200 square meters) for an old house he paid 3000 per season, now he pays 6000 for two, just count it!) 3500 * 7 months from October to April (although in Yekaterinburg people have heating from September to May.) 24,500 rubles per year in savings. now multiply by 100 years
    “If the log house is well-built, it is enough to caulk it once (provided that the one who caulks knows how to do it).”

  • Registration: 04/04/12 Messages: 1,404 Thanks: 2,602

    skip
    ...Is your foam coming off your wooden window? Don’t you want to remove the mounting foam and replace it in the windows with caulking, as was the case in Soviet times? Is the glass that you have glued to the windshield on your car also coming off?...
    skip.

    Uv. Mikhalych, your point of view has the right to life. Who would argue (even though this is exactly what is happening)? If experts can’t come to the same opinion about tow/moss/jute, etc., then why is sealant worse in this series? Do you use/recommend? For God's sake . I do not at all belittle the merits of the sealant; like everything else, it has its advantages and disadvantages. In addition, I agree with those who say that this technology is untested (it was smooth on paper, but they forgot about the ravines). How the tree will behave under the sealant, only God knows (maybe the manufacturers also know, but if there is a negative effect, it will only appear in long term- damn they will tell you about it).
    I'm an amateur in construction, I won't argue. But you also rely too much on technology, this is your right, but please do not consider others backward if they do not want to lead progress. Regarding your examples, they are not entirely correct. You are focusing on the strength/elasticity of the connection, but the ambush lies elsewhere. If we take your analogies, then the glass on the car, of course, holds up, but the iron under the sealant very quickly becomes unusable, a small possibility of moisture/condensation accumulation is enough. I understand that iron and wood are, as they say, “two big differences,” but then don’t give such examples, or be more objective, naming not only the advantages but also the side effects. On a completely safe car body, in places where sealant has been treated there may be holes or just rot (although all bodies are treated special compounds, to slow down corrosion).
    It turned out to be long, I apologize... it’s just that the example with auto sealants and glass, as a person associated with auto repair for 20 years, somehow “cut my ears.”
    I repeat: Uv. Mikhalych, your point of view has the right to life.

  • Registration: 01/22/11 Messages: 992 Thanks: 1,000

    homemade if possible

    Registration: 01/22/11 Messages: 992 Thanks: 1,000 Address: ZHITOMIR

    - Is your foam coming off your wooden window? Don’t you want to remove the mounting foam and replace it in the windows with caulking, as was the case in Soviet times? Does the glass that you have glued to the windshield on your car also come off?

    You put the window on the foam in the frame and we’ll see if it holds up. With any movement, the foam tears (it is not elastic) - this is already a closed topic; you yourself are incompetent in these matters and beat people up.

    But it is a fact that the energy efficiency of caulked houses is lower and heat loss is higher. And over the 100 years you are talking about, these zatarats will cover the cost of a new house.

    Do you even believe what you write - rubber is warmer than tow (nonsense). Caulk it well so that it doesn’t blow and forget about it.

    So, are you responsible for the crooked-armed builders? The sealant also helps to eliminate mistakes made by builders.

    This means caulking your hands is not something that has grown out of proportion, but all specialists should use sealant (you can also insulate the house with polystyrene foam so that the wind will blow through the house)

  • Registration: 04/15/10 Messages: 134 Thanks: 36

    forum member

    Registration: 04/15/10 Messages: 134 Thanks: 36 Address: MO/Vladimir

    Registration: 04/15/10 Messages: 134 Thanks: 36

    forum member

    Registration: 04/15/10 Messages: 134 Thanks: 36 Address: MO/Vladimir

    Why don’t you wear bast shoes? time-tested environmentally friendly technology! Why don't you ride horses? Time-tested, environmentally friendly technology! But you don’t do all this because in terms of comfort, manufacturability, efficiency and performance characteristics, good modern shoes and a car are superior to bast shoes and horses.

    Why are you lumping everything together? We are not discussing here the advantage of cars compared to horses, or shoes compared to bast shoes, but a very specific thing - proven tow or modern sealants. So there is no need to create a flood here - 13 pages have already been written, of which a constructive dispute with arguments/counterarguments can be fit into 2 pages. If you are such an ardent supporter of new technologies, then the log house is definitely not for you. For people like you, houses made of sedwich panels and other know-how were invented.

    I still don’t understand what yours have to do with it : “There are a lot of examples to confirm this, such as swollen wooden doors, windows, drying floors. It is impossible to completely dry wood. It will still take moisture from the atmosphere.” What is this said in what context? why refuse wood in decoration? Well then the Log House is not for you at all!

    What exactly is not clear here? Written in the context of the discussion "sealant vs tow". Further there is an explanation - the sealant will come away from the wood sooner or later, there will be cracks. As for wood trim, solid wood doors, kitchen facades from solid wood and in general anything made of wood - I’m not writing that wood should be abandoned. On the contrary, it is a noble material, which becomes less and less every year. You just need to understand that wood has the ability to expand and contract, therefore, when finishing with wood and building with wood, you need to take this into account and be prepared for it. No sealant can completely seal a log house - this is a utopia.
    No, the log house is just for me. I have a log house in the village, planted on moss, caulked with tow. He and his father chopped and rolled some more as a boy. I know what I'm writing about.

    - Is your foam coming off your wooden window? Don’t you want to remove the mounting foam and replace it in the windows with caulking, as was the case in Soviet times? Does the glass that you have glued to the windshield on your car also come off? You are talking about something you don’t know! showing your incompetence.
    Do you know how much more it will cost you to heat your house in winter conditions on your caulk? Much more expensive.!

    I won't even comment on this nonsense. Bol answered you below. And be gentler on turns with insults! Incompetent is the one who does not want to learn from the mistakes of others, putting his own forehead on the line, and ignores many years of experience and proven construction technologies. The guys want to do experiments on their houses - for God's sake! This is their right.
    Polyurethane foam, under certain loads, comes off not only from wood, but is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation (even indirect sun rays), short-lived, etc. Any material has its pros and cons - miracles do not happen. But that's not what we're talking about here.

    “No matter how much I looked at old houses during dismantling, the condition of the logs is very good, some are generally perfect. Everything is covered with moss and tow. Houses built in the traditional way cost 100 years or more. I suggest looking at the condition of the logs with sealant instead of tow in 30-40 years at least. Are those who are actively promoting sealants here ready to guarantee the same safety of logs as with caulking?"

    - I’m not a seller of sealants, and I can’t tell you how quickly they serve, and what tests they passed, if I find out the information, I’ll post it. But it is a fact that the energy efficiency of caulked houses is lower and heat loss is higher. And over the 100 years you are talking about, these zatarats will cover the cost of a new house. An average house with an area of ​​150 square meters per month during the heating season will consume about 7-8 thousand rubles. In the case of sealing with good material, the costs will be reduced by half (the experience of my friend from Yekaterinburg with one gas boiler Thermex heats his old house which is 70 - 80 years old with an area of ​​​​about 80 sq. m. and a new one built nearby with 200 square meters) for the old house he I paid 3000 per season, now I pay 6000 for two, just count it!) 3500 * 7 months from October to April (although in Yekaterinburg people have heating from September to May.) 24,500 rubles per year in savings. Now multiply by 100 years.

    The point is that there is not yet enough information on the operation of these super-duper sealants. Houses with sealants in the seams haven’t lasted 20 years yet, and many here are foaming at the mouth to prove that this is a panacea, that we can’t easily survive without them. You need to understand that in our age, when everything is put on capitalist rails and focused on making a profit for everyone possible ways, you need to be able to distinguish really useful inventions from husks.
    No one is going to live 100 years. No need for utopian examples!

    - and you are responsible for the crooked Strotiels? The sealant also helps to eliminate mistakes made by builders.

    Well, you yourself wrote it - a sealant for those whose logs were cut by crooked hands. I didn't pull your tongue.

  • Registration: 01/24/12 Messages: 61 Thanks: 11

    Wow! This is exactly what they cut for me! So for me the sealant is just right!
  • Registration: 04/02/12 Messages: 3 Thanks: 1

    Newbie

    Registration: 04/02/12 Messages: 3 Thanks: 1

  • Registration: 12/04/11 Messages: 229 Thanks: 84

    The argument is about nothing. The sealant is simpler and better. Anyone, as long as it meets the stated characteristics. It does not create heat, it is no warmer than tow - it does not allow the caulked seams to blow through. It is not the tow that holds heat, but the air, or rather the small air bubbles in the tow; the more of them and the smaller they are, the better. It does not come off the wood - but sticks tightly, if it is acrylic or polyurethane, silicone may come off, I haven’t tried it. All sealant was originally created to work ELASTICALLY in cracks. Wood sealer is designed to work on wood. We just don’t have polyurethane ones, we have acrylic ones, they work well, but polyurethane ones are more environmentally friendly and reliable, and the choice of colors allows you to seal them beautifully. I went through the seams tentatively timber bath in the waiting room - I liked it. I'll do it in the washroom, time will tell.
  • Registration: 04/05/12 Messages: 36 Thanks: 13

    Participant

    Registration: 04/05/12 Messages: 36 Thanks: 13 Address: Tolyatti

    The argument is about nothing. The sealant is simpler and better. Anyone, as long as it meets the stated characteristics. It does not create heat, it is no warmer than tow - it does not allow the caulked seams to blow through. It is not the tow that holds heat, but the air, or rather the small air bubbles in the tow; the more of them and the smaller they are, the better. It does not come off the wood - but sticks tightly, if it is acrylic or polyurethane, silicone may come off, I haven’t tried it. All sealant was originally created to work ELASTICALLY in cracks. Wood sealer is designed to work on wood. We just don’t have polyurethane ones, we have acrylic ones, they work well, but polyurethane ones are more environmentally friendly and reliable, and the choice of colors allows you to seal them beautifully. I walked tentatively along the seams of the timber bathhouse in the dressing room - I liked it. I'll do it in the washroom, time will tell.

    There are polyurethane ones! you just need to look! I have already sent a request to my supplier polyurethane adhesives for parquet, they promised to send information. If you're interested, I can share the information later.

  • Registration: 03/15/09 Messages: 524 Thanks: 142

  • Registration: 04/05/12 Messages: 36 Thanks: 13

    Participant

    Registration: 04/05/12 Messages: 36 Thanks: 13 Address: Tolyatti

    “Besides, I agree with those who talk about the untested nature of this technology (it was smooth on paper, but they forgot about the ravines). Only God knows how the tree will behave under the sealant (maybe the manufacturers also know, but if there is a negative effect , but it will only manifest itself in the long term - why the hell will they tell you about it).
    That is, you do not trust serious and reputable companies, including Western ones, who claim any properties of the material? Releasing new products The manufacturer conducts a lot of research on the market. For example, on my topic. The manufacturer claims that wooden floors glued to elastic practically do not form cracks and do not dry out for many years. How did they know this? It’s very simple: testing in a special chamber that simulates aging cycles. It's the same in other industries. I don’t believe all the statements unfounded, but I still listen. And I base my opinion on many factors. And the unfounded statements: the sealant is not elastic, and even if it is elastic, it will not hold, and if it does hold, it will freeze, and if it does not freeze, then there will be mold, and if there is no mold, then it will definitely not be warmer, and if it will be warmer then you yourself are a fool and the moss (tow) is better.
    You are focusing on the strength/elasticity of the connection, but the ambush lies elsewhere. If we take your analogies, then the glass on the car, of course, holds up, but the iron under the sealant very quickly becomes unusable, a small possibility of moisture/condensation accumulation is enough. I understand that iron and wood are, as they say, “two big differences,” but then don’t give such examples, or be more objective, naming not only the advantages but also the side effects. On a completely healthy car body, in places where sealant has been treated there may be holes or just rot (although all bodies are treated with special compounds to slow down corrosion).
    My brother owns a company that replaces auto glass; I have already heard and seen how glass is replaced a million times. So, my dear, there are no holes under the sealant itself! There are traces of corrosion where there is no sealant, namely under the rubber seals that are not tightly adjacent to the body.
    The argument just turns out to be about nothing. Tell me the advantages! I have not yet heard the advantages of Pakli compared to polyurethane sealant! I named the advantages. Name the advantages of Tow in relation to sealant!

    You put the window on the foam in the frame and we’ll see if it holds up. With any movement, the foam tears (it is not elastic) - this is already a closed topic; you yourself are incompetent in these matters and beat people up.
    And I didn’t even talk about the foam window in the log house. I was talking about regular window and about ordinary foam and an ordinary house!
    Why don’t they use tow there? why was it abandoned?
    Polyurethane foam is not elastic, but sealant is elastic. And why did the tow become elastic? that is, you question the elasticity of the sealant and not a word at all about the complete absence of it in tow. How does tow behave when wood moves? Yes, just like other inelastic materials. squeezed out, piled up and so on...

    Do you even believe what you write - rubber is warmer than tow (nonsense). Caulk it well so that it doesn’t blow and forget about it.
    Firstly, it’s not rubber, it’s polyurethane! The tow itself is not a bit warmer. About the heat fell below you wrote correctly! It’s not tow or sealant that gives heat, but air!

    This means caulking your hands is not something that has grown out of proportion, but all specialists should use sealant (you can also insulate the house with polystyrene foam so that the wind will blow through the house)
    I personally used sealant along the seams! everything is very simple. Take a vilotherm of the appropriate diameter, push it into the joint and apply sealant on top. After this, run along the seam with your finger, previously moistened with thick soapy solution(in order to give an aesthetic and smooth look, use soap to prevent the sealant from sticking to your fingers, otherwise it is very sticky) and voila! The speed is many times faster than caulking! what does all this have to do once!

    So far, no one here has given me a single advantage of tow over polyurethane sealant! I ASK YOU TO WRITE THE ADVANTAGES! The argument I like better is also accepted, but only at the very end! So far I only see attacks on my point of view. and I answer you all with reason. What do I hear from you? some kind of baby talk about rubber, environmental friendliness, blah blah blah
    I gave an example of a comparison of methods proven over centuries and new technologies, because as an argument this has been proven over centuries in relation to the latest technologies It sounds at least strange!
    Well, of course the log house is not for me. Your log house was probably built without a single nail, and the roof is made of straw, right? These are time-tested technologies.
    What exactly is not clear here? Written in the context of the discussion "sealant vs tow". Further there is an explanation - the sealant will come away from the wood sooner or later, there will be cracks. As for wood trim, solid wood doors, solid wood kitchen facades and generally everything made of wood, I am not writing that wood should be abandoned. On the contrary, it is a noble material, which becomes less and less every year. You just need to understand that wood has the ability to expand and contract, therefore, when finishing with wood and building with wood, you need to take this into account and be prepared for it. No sealant can completely seal a log house - this is a utopia.
    No, the log house is just for me. I have a log house in the village, planted on moss, caulked with tow. He and his father chopped and rolled some more as a boy. I know what I'm writing about.
    The sealant will stick and how! And you, not knowing the topic, question this. I have already described all your arguments above: the sealant is not elastic (and tow?), the sealant will not stick (and tow?). It feels like you don’t really read what I write at all. Sealant must be used in the system! together in sealing Vilaterm! This is a system. which allows you to seal and increase heat transfer through problem areas!
    You live in your log house in the village all year round? Or do you only go for the summer?

    I won't even comment on this nonsense. Bol answered you below. And be gentler on turns with insults! Incompetent is the one who does not want to learn from the mistakes of others, putting his own forehead on the line, and ignores many years of experience and proven construction technologies. The guys want to do experiments on their houses - for God's sake! This is their right.
    Polyurethane foam, under certain loads, comes off not only from wood, but is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation (even indirect sunlight), is short-lived, etc. Any material has its pros and cons - miracles do not happen. But that's not what we're talking about here.
    How did I offend someone? Can you tell me? And the sealant has a tensile strength of 500-600%, and it is also UV resistant, unlike foam. Foam was given as an example of the use of new technologies to replace old tow in windows. And here is a link for you about polyurethane sealants:
    Well, who will say after this that it cannot withstand a living tree?

    The point is that there is not yet enough information on the operation of these super-duper sealants. Houses with sealants in the seams haven’t lasted 20 years yet, and many here are foaming at the mouth to prove that this is a panacea, that we can’t easily survive without them. You need to understand that in our age, when everything is put on capitalist rails and focused on making a profit in all possible ways, you need to be able to distinguish really useful inventions from husk. 992

  • As paradoxical as it sounds, most plumbers manage to seal threaded connections... with tow, or, to put it into common language, with flax fibers. Flax with sealant, just flax - the imagination of the workers of the "plumbing field" is limitless. However, this approach cannot be explained otherwise than by inertial thinking. Tow, being natural fiber inevitably breaks down over time. The use of tow was justified in times of ordinary metal pipes, the main method of joining which was welding - and tow was present only at the junction of the pipe and the mixer. The number of threaded connections for metal-plastic pipes is many times greater, and the service life is much longer. As a result, there is a huge likelihood of leaks in threaded connections after a few years.


    To avoid troubles, we recommend that you clarify with the contractors what specific sealing materials they plan to use before starting work. As you already understood, flax and its derivatives are unacceptable - require the use of modern polymer sealing materials, only they guarantee the reliability, tightness and durability of the thread. A small digression: if you urgently need to change the faucet, you don’t want to run for a supply of polymer sealant, and you plan to carry out the work in person - you can use an ordinary thin packaging bag from the nearest supermarket (not paper), simply wrapping it around the thread. However, let’s return to professional materials: Italian, German, Polish materials, Chinese and naturally domestic brands. There is not much difference between them.

    The main difference between new polymer sealing materials compared to traditional ones is the stability of their properties throughout their entire service life, high reliability, ease of use and tightness of joints. Polymer seals can be divided into two types: pipe winding and plumbing anaerobic sealants. They differ in “form factor” and method of application.

    When choosing a material for sealing threads, you should take into account the conditions in which installation will take place (temperature environment above 15C or below), connection operating conditions (heating, hot or cold drinking water, the presence of antifreeze in the system), connection materials (metal-to-metal, plastic-to-metal and also type of metal), accessibility of the connection (easy or difficult access, the need for subsequent access to the connection). To put it simply, for threaded connections that you do not plan to disassemble in the future (for example, heating), it is better to use an anaerobic sealant, but for systems that are periodically disassembled (faucets, showers, water filters, and water supply systems in general) It is better to use pipe winding. However, you can get by with just one type of polymer seal.

    How to use a polymer seal? The diagrams for winding and sealing are different, so we will present them sequentially. So, if the choice fell on winding: it is necessary to clean the thread from obvious dirt, for which it is enough to wipe with a rag, then pull the recommended amount of thread out of the box and cut it with a built-in knife, the thread should be wound randomly, crossing the turns of the thread, crosswise (in the middle of the thread, it is advisable to wind several more than at the edges), then use keys to connect the threaded elements as tightly as possible. Connections assembled on threads can be checked for leaks immediately after twisting. Another option is to use FUM tape (tape made of fluoroplastic sealing material) - we wrap it tightly around the thread and cut off the edge, the rest is as described above.

    If you decide to use a sealant, then: it is highly advisable to degrease the threads by wiping them with a rag moistened with an alcohol solution, glass cleaning fluid, etc.; Next, we take a brush and carefully coat the threaded grooves, cover with a layer of gel the entire outer and initial turns of the inner surface of the thread in an amount sufficient to fill the threaded gap as a whole. After the composition is applied, it is necessary to twist and unscrew the connection several times without disconnecting the fittings. Running back and forth promotes proper distribution of the compound in the thread and eliminates air inclusions. No twisting force is required; contact of several threaded turns is sufficient for sealing.

    Compounds collected on anaerobic gel at room temperature can withstand low media pressure sufficient to test for leaks after 1 hour. The system can be fully launched within 1 day. Heating the connection with a hairdryer can speed up the sealing process significantly. The main symptom is hardening and decreased transparency of the gel in the thread gap.

    The author’s subjective opinion is that pipe winding is somewhat easier to use and saves a lot of time.

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    Replacing fum tape

    IN plumbing work New technologies have long since arrived, and fum tape has come to replace winding flax. But there are situations when there is neither winding flax at hand, nor, especially, fum tape. How to get out of this situation, literally, dry? How replace fum tape?

    It turns out that we encounter such substitute material at every step today. For replacing fum tape An ordinary plastic bag, in which products are packaged in a store, be it bread, meat, fish or vegetables, is quite suitable. Any products in supermarkets and stores are packaged in such bags, but you should not use rustling dumpling or frozen packaging for these purposes.

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    There are 8 comments left on this post.

    It’s all so simple, but sometimes there’s an emergency and there’s nothing at hand.

    More than once I found myself in situations where nothing was at hand, but I didn’t think of this, thanks for the advice!

    I can’t imagine a reliable connection without Tangit. However, something happened. Then yes.

    how to replace fum tape

    Polyethylene is good advice.

    This is an option for an EMERGENCY situation, but it is better to use fum tape. It was, I know.

    I don’t argue with you that it’s better, of course, to use fum tape, but when you don’t have it at hand, but you need to get the job done, then this way you can get away with the situation.

    Good advice! Sometimes you have to play the role of a brilliant plumber.

    Everything ingenious is simple! Thanks, we'll use it.

    Leave a comment or two

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    What can replace fum tape?

    Fum tape can be replaced with flax + Unipak paste. These kits are sold at any plumbing store. The paste is needed to prevent the flax from rotting in contact with water. Previously, this paste was replaced with Surik primer

    And also with Tangit Unilok thread

    The highest quality connection in critical places is a connection using flax with paste.

    Fum tape appeared relatively recently, and before, tow was used with all its might, and even now, when the tape has suddenly run out and you don’t want to go to the store, it’s quite possible to use tow. True, the tow has not gone very well now good quality(there is too much obvious straw in it), but even in this case, if you use it together with Unipak paste, and in extreme cases with ordinary paint, the connection will be reliable. It should be taken into account that when winding tow together with paint, it will be problematic to unwind such a connection.

    You can replace fum tape with simple plumbing flax, because before the advent of fum tape, no one tried to wrap connections with anything other than flax. And to this day, all plumbers prefer linen rather than some kind of tape. Linen is much more reliable and costs much less than these imported bells and whistles.

    How to replace fum tape at home

    When choosing FUM tape or flax strands for thread sealing, it is wise to consider the third option - modern and more convenient. However, if in practice the question has become tough - which is better, fum tape or tow - then the answer will depend on several factors: what thread is sealed, in what system, where, what is its peculiarity. Let's talk today about the advantages and disadvantages of these classic sealants and analyze their scope of application.

    Tow and plumbing - how it works

    Plumbing flax, tow, flax strands are all names for the same thing. Flax tow is a sealant used for household needs more than 50 years. They compacted flax in the USSR, and they do it in the new Russia as well. Flax was not affected by any cataclysms: the transition to a market economy, the appearance of metal-plastic on the market, the demand for innovative sealants. Perhaps it will survive flax and renovation.

    There is an opinion among ordinary people that sealing threads on flax - if not last century, it definitely smells like mothballs. There were cases when, upon seeing tow in the hands of a master, customers widened their eyes and advised not to do this again. They say there are better materials in stores. However, professionals know that they need to work with any sealant, because the need for it may arise unexpectedly.

    Linen is a skein in the form of a braid, from which the required length is cut to seal the thread specific diameter. It is difficult to calculate the exact amount of flax for the mixture. They do this by eye, based on previous experience. We can say for sure that linen is suitable for carving in any condition: dirty, wet or old. Those. For systems that have seen the world, for example, in old houses, linen is irreplaceable.

    Tow for pipes is also popular due to its low price. The cost of 100 grams of sanitary flax starts at 50 rubles and depends on the quality of the material. However, not all so simple. By itself, a strand of flax is useless. You can't just wind flax and assemble the joint. Additional impregnation is required to enhance the sealing properties. Impregnation paste is applied on top of the flax wound on the thread and protects against corrosion, swelling, and rotting. Together with impregnation, the price of flax has already reached 150 rubles per 100 grams.

    The usual form of flax production - in braids - causes complaints from consumers. Flax fibers get in the way, cling to clothes, stick to the impregnation and spoil the appearance of the joint. Some manufacturers today produce flax in a bobbin. A reel costs more than 200 rubles for 80-100 grams. Which, of course, reduces talk about the availability of flax to nothing.

    The two main disadvantages of flax are its nature and application technology. Flax is organic, plant material. And how plant material rots or decays over time. Impregnated tow lasts longer than the one without treatment, but still the compound on flax has a very specific and very short shelf life - 3-5 years. Such connections should be regularly inspected and checked for leaks.

    When it comes to application, linen requires a trained hand and experience. First, the difficulty lies in the exact amount of linen tape. Secondly, they wind it strictly along the thread, getting into each turn. Thirdly, the end of the strand is also secured in a special way at the beginning of the thread - so that when twisted it does not roll or slip. To secure flax to the threads, notches are specially made or fittings with ready-made, factory-made notches are selected. It is not recommended to use flax on plastic, metal-plastic, or thin-walled threads. In general, with a wide variety of sealants on the market, the use of flax raises a lot of questions.

    What can be used instead of tow? Synthetic sealants. They last longer and are less hassle. Let's look at an example of such a sealant - FUM tape.

    FUM tape is a synthetic sealant based on fluoroplastic. As the name implies, it is a tape produced in a reel. The cost varies from 30 to 160 rubles and above and depends on the quality of the material, width and thickness. To seal the thread, the FUM is selected individually, depending on the diameter.

    FUM tape, unlike flax, is most effective on plastic pipes and fine carving. Many craftsmen note that they use FUM for diameters no larger than 1 inch, because... Otherwise, tape consumption cannot be called economical.

    To apply FUM tape, it is first stretched into a thread, wound onto each thread several times, and then the entire width of the tape is applied to the thread and secured. They begin to assemble the connection and do it very carefully so that the tape does not get lost or break. If you have never had to deal with this kind of sealant before, we advise you to practice “idle” - try the winding a couple of times, and then get to work. By the way, this way you will quickly understand how to replace tow with ribbon or some other material.

    The moment of choice of tape is fundamental. If flax is assessed by appearance, then FUM needs to be tried. High-quality tape stretches well and does not tear. But you can understand this by already purchasing the sealant - on site. It is unlikely that a store or market will allow you to test a product without paying.

    Besides plastic and thin-walled threads, where else is fum tape relevant?

    For gas supply systems and non-standard liquid media

    For high temperature systems

    For repairing rubber rings and gaskets in faucets, shower heads

    What is important to know when buying tape?

    Ineffective in heating systems because cannot withstand multidirectional loads and pressure changes

    Demanding on the quality of the thread - before winding, the thread is checked for the presence of burrs, notches, and roughness that can damage the tape

    It is capricious and shows results only in the hands of a professional - to work with FUM tape, you need experience not only in application, but also in choosing a good material

    FUM tape or tow? These sealants have a lot in common - low price, fame in the market and in the professional environment, availability in any region. But they also have serious disadvantages in common: not the most convenient application, limited scope of application, high consumption. If you have to extensive work- installation of communications in a private house, installation of equipment and plumbing - it is better to choose the latest generation of seals: polymer thread, anaerobic gel. With them you will do everything 3 times faster due to high speed application and instant sealing.

    anaerobic sealants as an alternative to traditional sealants

    The difference between fum tape and electrical tape?

    In this article, as in the video, I will try to break down quite complex and interesting topic regarding the best way to pack threads. Besides a few less common thread sealers that many have never heard of, there are three main competitors on the market in the fight for the hearts of plumbers and anyone who has ever wound threads in their household. These are LINEN, FUM-TAPE and THREAD.

    IN Soviet times there was no such question, since in addition to flax Soviet industry She simply didn’t offer anything else. Now, for many years, disputes between supporters of the “classical” approach, that is, adherents of flax and their “more modern” colleagues who use fum tape and plumbing thread, have not subsided. Which one is right?

    The fact is that among these three sealing materials there is no clear favorite and outright outsider. Each seal is good in its own way, and also has its negative sides. Let's sort them out.

    Plumbing linen

    Positive sides of flax:

    1. Absolutely reliable connections. Centuries of experience in using this seal speaks of its absolute reliability. If you wind the flax onto the thread correctly, then you don’t need to worry about the tightness.
    2. Low price. This is the cheapest sealant; the ratio of the number of wound threads to the money spent is clearly in favor of flax.
    3. Possibility of adjustment. The connection between flax and paste, even after a few years, can be slightly adjusted, tightened, unscrewed a little, but no more than 45 degrees. In this case, the tightness will not be broken.

    Negative sides flax:

    1. The speed of working with flax is very low.

      Seals: flax, FUM tape, thread, sealants

      In the time spent on one winding with flax, you can wind several threads with thread or a fusel. If a facility requires tens or hundreds of threads to be packed, this can easily result in a half-day time difference. And time is money. If you need to wind up one or two threads, then this point is not important.

    2. Dirty hands. The fact is that flax is used in conjunction with sealing paste. Read more about pasta in this article. This paste is very soiled and you need to wipe your hands after each use.

    Fum tape

    Positive aspects of fum tape:

    1. Speed ​​of work. Winding the threads with fum tape is the fastest option.

    Negative sides of fum tape:

    1. Requirement for experience. Despite the apparent simplicity of using fum tape, it is very insidious and requires experience and knowledge in winding. A beginner will most likely not be able to wind it correctly the first time. Also for different types thread available different types fum tapes that differ in width and thickness, this must also be taken into account.
    2. Unreliability. People will argue with me, but in my opinion, the connections on the fum tape are the most unreliable. I think that this fact is mostly caused by the reasons from point 1.
    3. Impossibility of adjustment. If, during operation or repair of pipelines and connections, the connection on the fum tape is slightly damaged, moved, or twisted, it will inevitably leak. Which will not happen when using flax with paste and thread.

    Plumbing thread

    Positive aspects of the thread:

    1. Thread is good for everyone. This is the most modern material, which has few disadvantages.
    2. Available for beginners. Even someone who has never packed threads in their life, after reading the instructions or watching a video on YouTube, will be able to seal the threads tightly the first time using thread. She forgives mistakes and handles very well.
    3. The possibility of adjustment is very large. Threaded connection, wound with thread, can be adjusted up to 180 degrees without loss of tightness.

    Negative properties of the thread:

    1. Price. Thread is a very expensive sealant. For home use when winding one or two threads per year, this is not so important. For a professional who winds dozens of threads a day, this can be very expensive.
    2. The need for a knife. The thread is usually very strong and cannot be broken by hand. You should always have a knife or scissors at hand, which affects the winding time.

    Conclusions:

    1. A thread- for home use and for those professionals who do not save money.
    2. Linen- for professional use.
    3. Fum tape- for temporary connections.