What to do with strawberry bushes in September. How to feed strawberries in August after pruning and harvesting. Organic or mineral mixtures. Caring for strawberries in September

Strawberries are a labor-intensive berry and require almost constant care. Autumn is no exception: the success of the next year depends on how the plantation is prepared for wintering. But the gardener will have to try.

Caring for strawberries in autumn

Fall activities at the strawberry plantation include:

thorough cleaning of the beds;
trimming excess mustache and foliage;
preventive spraying against diseases and pests;
removing weeds and loosening the soil;
fertilization;
shelter for the berry garden for the winter.

Cleaning the garden, pruning

Immediately after harvesting, you should carefully inspect the plantation. Yes, it’s not autumn yet, but there’s no point in delaying it. All dried and obviously diseased leaves are removed, simultaneously pulling out weeds, and burned: these remains should not be composted. Pruning is aimed at removing pathogens and pests, as well as rejuvenating the bushes. Therefore, in addition to cutting out unusable leaves, this operation is often carried out more radically.

So, on mature plantations (over 2 years old), many gardeners mow down all the leaves without touching the horns. This operation is carried out in early August, so that at least a month and a half is left for new greenery to grow. Optimal height mowing - 1–2 cm from the horns. Therefore, if the owner is not good at using a scythe, it is better to carry it out using a sickle or pruning shears.

When trimming leaves, do not rush, so as not to accidentally hit the horns

After this, the sun is allowed to fry the remains of the bushes for several days in order to kill a significant part of the pathogens, and the plantation is well watered with nitrogen fertilizers (30–40 g of urea per 1 m2). These events contribute rapid growth roots and young leaves, increase next year's harvest. All mustaches that are not needed for the resumption of plantings are cut off as they appear: this operation begins in July and continues until late autumn.

As the soil dries, water and systematically loosen the row spacing while removing weeds: away from the bushes to a depth of 10 cm, next to the bushes - very shallowly. If bushes are found that have risen from the ground with their roots exposed, add fertile soil to them.

Complete mulching of the bed bulk materials It is highly desirable, but peat is used in a limited way: it can acidify the soil, which strawberries do not like.

The plantation is watered systematically, but without waterlogging. If the autumn has been very dry, pre-winter watering must be given in the middle or end of October. When bushes fall out, the soil in their place is disinfected with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate and plant young plants (ready-made tendrils) in this place. New plantations are also established in August-September.

Fertilizing

In addition to the urea added after mowing the leaves, strawberries also need other fertilizers in the fall. The best option- rotted manure, depending on the condition of the soil, it can be applied up to a bucket per 1 m2 with shallow embedding into the soil. Chicken manure is applied as a liquid fertilizer: it is a very concentrated fertilizer. Dilute it in water in a ratio of 1:10 by volume, after 2-3 days dilute it another 5 times and water the strawberries at the root. It is better to apply these fertilizers in September.

Mullein can also be applied as a liquid fertilizer; in this matter - whoever is more comfortable

Usage wood ash It’s useful in strawberries, but you can’t overdo it: strawberries don’t like highly alkaline soils, so you can add no more than two handfuls per 1 m2. Unlike organic matter, it is also useful if the ash gets on the leaves: this helps fight pests.

In the absence of natural fertilizers, you can use mineral ones. The best way out- 2–3 tbsp. spoons of azofoska per 10 liters of water, consumption - a bucket for 15–20 bushes. Useful foliar feeding a mixture of microfertilizers (spraying the leaves with a solution containing 0.2% potassium permanganate, boric acid and ammonium molybdate). All fertilizing is carried out after abundant watering or good rain.

Protection from pests and diseases

On personal plots, gardeners try not to use chemicals, but in case of significant infection they have to be used both in spring and autumn. One sign of the need for this is the curling and darkening of young leaves. Any changes in the color of the foliage or the appearance of spots on them also indicate a problem.

Thus, strawberry mites should not be left on plantations for the winter. With a small amount, an infusion of onion peels can help (200 g per 10 liters of water, infuse for 3-4 days). One of dangerous pests- strawberry weevil. You can’t take it with a bow: you’ll have to use biological products or even chemical insecticides, for example, Iskra, Akarin, Corsair or Karbofos.

The strawberry weevil - a typical representative of pests with a proboscis - affects both flowers and future berries

If there are a lot of rotten berries, the bushes are sprayed with infusion mustard powder(50 g per bucket of water, leave for 2 days) or copper oxychloride according to the instructions for the drug. Powdery mildew is treated, for example, with the drug Topaz. Most fungal diseases are effectively treated with Bordeaux mixture. In autumn, use a 1% solution.

Preparing the plantation for winter

Immediately before the onset of real frost, around the beginning of November, measures are taken to promote snow retention: they scatter brushwood, small branches, etc. Strawberries do not tolerate frost well: even when the soil temperature drops to -10 °C, significant damage to the root system is possible. At an air temperature of -15 °C, many uncovered plants die. A layer of snow of 20 cm solves all problems. If the temperature drops to -7 °C and snow is not expected, mulch should be added to the bushes with a layer of 10 cm or more and covered with any materials.

Even in not the most severe climatic regions, piled around bushes pine needles won't hurt

It is optimal to use coniferous spruce branches, but in its absence non-woven materials (for example, spunbond with a density of at least 60 g/m2) are effective. It is undesirable to use straw or dry leaves: rodents like to hide in them, and these materials rot during the winter, as a result of which there are problems with cleaning them in the spring. You should not cover strawberries ahead of time: a light frost will do them good, and damping off the bushes is more dangerous than a slight freezing.

There is always a lot of work in the strawberry patch, and autumn chores are very important: their high-quality implementation guarantees a harvest of next year. Strawberries need nutrients, a supply of moisture and reliable shelter from severe frosts.

After picking the berries, strawberry bushes require special care to restore strength and intensively lay fruiting buds for the next year.

With proper implementation of summer-autumn preventive measures garden strawberries(scientific name for strawberry) increases fruit production by at least 15-30 percent. The fruits become larger, juicier and sweeter. Any variety, plain or remontant strawberries responds with gratitude to care and care, so berries grown with one’s own hands are noticeably different from store-bought ones.

Caring for strawberries after harvest

At the end of July-beginning of August, after the strawberries have fruited, an appropriate this period care consisting of: trimming mustaches, removing damaged leaves, weeding, fertilizing, hilling bushes.

In July, after the strawberries are harvested, the plants begin to grow new leaves, form new horns, the growth of tendrils with lateral rosettes intensifies, and new flower buds are laid for the new season.

Be sure to weed the beds, that is, remove all weeds. Excess tendrils and dried leaves are also removed. Reddened leaf blades are removed first.

You cannot tear off the foliage and mustache, you can only cut it, otherwise the bush will be damaged and will hurt. For pruning, use only sharp scissors or pruners. To avoid the proliferation of pests, it is better to burn old, cut leaves. If young leaves curl or look corrugated, this indicates that the plants are infected with strawberry mite and they should be treated with a special preparation.

After pruning, the soil around the strawberries is loosened, fertilized, and watered. The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10 centimeters. Around the plants, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-7 centimeters. It is advisable to hill up the bushes.

In this case, the roots must be completely covered, and top part the bush should remain above the ground. Under no circumstances should you cover the growing point, that is, the middle of the rosette of leaves.

Fertilizing strawberries in July

For feeding, mineral fertilizers with a wide content of microelements are taken. There are about 30 grams of fertilizer per square meter. A special fertilizer for garden strawberries is suitable for this - Fertika, ammophoska.

Fertilizers containing potassium chloride cannot be used, as it slows down growth and impairs fruiting. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil to a depth of about 5-8 centimeters.

In addition to these fertilizers, you can use last year's humus. It scatters around the bushes and slightly digs into the soil. Humus improves the structure of the soil and makes it more fertile.

You can also fertilize the beds with diluted chicken manure (dilute it in a ratio of 1:15 with water). When feeding, we must not forget that this solution should not get on the foliage, otherwise burns will appear on the plants, which provokes the development of diseases. A high concentration of the solution can completely destroy the bush. That's why this type fertilizing is not used so often. And more often in spring than in summer and autumn.

If the weather is dry, the strawberry beds are watered abundantly. Soil moisture should be maintained until the end of the season. Watering is done once a week with a bucket per square meter.

For better results, you can use drip irrigation. This type of watering allows you to get the right amount of moisture and at the same time the plants do not rot, since the soil does not become waterlogged.

Caring for strawberries in August

To get a bountiful harvest for the next season, at the end of summer perennial plants required proper care. It includes: pruning leaves, replanting mustaches, preparing plants for winter, that is, covering the bushes.

Old leaves are cut off. Here gardeners act differently, some mow down all the foliage completely, others remove only leaves damaged by disease. If strawberries grow in groups, then they are processed first early varieties. Then come the averages and late varieties, this will allow you to evenly care for the plants and prevent them from overgrowing, which leads to the threat of infection with diseases and pests.

The mustaches with new rosettes and young roots are planted to form young bushes. For this, the strongest specimens are selected, usually this is the first rosette on the antennae. It is recommended to replant strawberry plantings every 3 years, this is how many years the bush bears maximum fruit, then the bush ages and the yield decreases noticeably.

To protect strawberries from various fungi, powdery mildew, and pests, the bushes are sprayed with special preparations or self-prepared products.

For spraying the following preparations are used:

Karbofos or Actellik is protection against weevils and strawberry mites;
Azocene and Topaz are used for the prevention and control of powdery mildew;
a one percent solution of lime and copper sulfate saves bushes and berries from rot and spotting.

Fertilizing strawberries in August

Feeding the bushes during this period increases the degree of frost resistance of the plant and promotes the formation of future flower buds.

Complex mineral fertilizers should include: 1 part nitrogen, 2 parts phosphorus, 4 parts potassium. IN ready-made version, it could be: Fusco, Autumn, Autumn. All of these preparations, in addition to the base, contain other useful material.

The Autumn fertilizer does not contain nitrogen, which allows it to be used even at a later period, but this preparation contains all the elements that are necessary for the growth and good fruiting of strawberries.

Suitable organic fertilizers include: peat, horse manure in granules, humus, bone meal.

Mineral and organic fertilizers should not be mixed. In rare cases, when the soil is depleted, mineral and organic fertilizers are applied over the entire area of the beds. If the strawberry planting area is quite large, this mixture can also be used.

After feeding, the plants are covered with mulch, and for wintering the bushes are covered with leaves, pine needles, potato tops, and straw. Dry weather is chosen for shelter, otherwise the layer may cake and cause the formation of pests and diseases inside the layer or lead to root rot.

The layer of mulch protecting plants from frost should be at least 7 centimeters. In addition to mulch, non-woven material, such as spunbond, is used.

Autumn care for remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberry compared to simple varieties has a short life span and after two years the plants must be replaced by new ones. Some varieties do not produce whiskers and are easier to care for, but they use seeds to propagate them, which complicates the breeding process.

July and August are suitable for renewing strawberry plantations. By autumn the bushes take root and easily endure the winter.

In preparation for winter, flower stalks and leaves are torn off from the mother bushes. The bushes are earthed up so that the roots are covered with soil. But the core of the plant must remain open, otherwise it will begin to rot.

The best reviews from gardeners
I always cut off almost all the leaves, leaving 3-4 leaves. When the first frosts begin, I cover them with spruce branches to prevent them from freezing in winter. Here in the Urals it can be -30 in the winter, so you can’t do without shelter. and I cut off the leaves because by the end of the season they are almost all diseased.

Next year's strawberry harvest directly depends on whether the strawberries were transplanted in August, whether strawberry fertilizer was applied in the fall when planting seedlings (or during transplanting bushes), and whether other necessary procedures were completed. The basic rule is that you should begin the final work of this season after the bushes have fully bear fruit.

Caring for garden strawberries after harvest

How to care for strawberries after harvest? In principle, there are no particular difficulties here. There are several mandatory stages for caring for strawberries in August-September, which are not recommended to be ignored:

Removing tendrils and old/diseased leaves;
Spraying against pests and diseases;
Fertilizing strawberries in the fall (when planting) and in the summer (after pruning);
Caring for strawberries for the winter - providing shelter during frosts.

For your information, strawberries are popular name or pineapple, belonging to the genus Strawberry, family Rosaceae.

What to do with strawberries in August

Mustache trimming

Caring for garden strawberries in August begins with trimming the mustaches along with the rosettes formed on them. To increase crop productivity, it is better to perform the procedure in three steps:

immediately after the completion of fruiting of the bushes;
20 days after the first procedure;
in another 20 days.

The tendrils are cut at a distance of 10 cm from the base of the plant. As cutting tool You can use a knife, pruning shears or garden shears. You should carefully hold the mustache with your other hand so as not to accidentally cut off the excess part of the bush.

ON THE PICTURE: The mustaches with new rosettes formed, which have had time to form full-fledged roots, can be left after pruning for propagation of strawberries.

Also, caring for strawberries after picking the berries involves removing old and diseased leaves from the bush, leaving only the hearts and young leaves. The “heart” of a strawberry is the apical bud of the main shoot (horn), which contains the rudiments of a peduncle with flowers. The hearts should always be above the soil surface, otherwise they may dry out under the soil (or leaf litter).

ON THE PICTURE: All old strawberry leaves and leaves with spots must be ruthlessly removed.

Do you want to harvest a bountiful harvest of berries? Remove strawberry tendrils both during flowering and when fruiting. And when caring for strawberries (garden strawberries) after harvesting, do not cut off the thickest tendril. It will grow into a beautiful young bush to renew an old plant. This operation is recommended to be carried out every three years.

Spraying against pests and diseases

It should be remembered that garden strawberries after harvesting need care and protection from all kinds of diseases no less than in the spring. Preventive and therapeutic spraying of strawberries is an important component of care in August, designed to protect the berries from various fungi (gray and black rot), stains, and a number of pests.

ON THE PICTURE: Strawberries affected by powdery mildew are unsuitable for consumption.

What should you spray strawberries with after harvesting? Depending on the nature of the lesion, you can use the following drugs:

" ", " " will destroy the strawberry mite and weevil;
" ", "Azotsen" will save you from powdery mildew;
A 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used for spotting and rot.

How to feed strawberries in August

Fertilizing strawberries for the winter provides the plant with increased frost resistance and promotes the formation of new flower buds.

How to fertilize strawberries in August? The use of fertilizers containing nitrogen is strictly prohibited, with the exception of a strong urea solution. The purpose of urea is to destroy in the bud fungal diseases, and have a minimal stimulating effect on strawberries. For feeding purposes, it is permissible to use:

mineral complex fertilizers NPK in proportions 1:1.5:2 or 1:2:4 (that is, always only one part of nitrogen, one and a half to two parts of phosphorus and two to four parts of potassium). Among the ready-made fertilizers, the following are quite suitable: fertilizer "Autumn" from "Fasco" with an NPK ratio of 5:15:35 (similar in composition, but under a different TerraSol brand). Very good feedback It has fertilizer "Autumn" from "Buyskiye Fertilizers" in a plastic bag 3 kg, which does not contain nitrogen (which is a definite plus), but contains calcium, boron and magnesium for healthy growth of seedlings in the spring;
organic fertilizers: humus, peat, granulated horse manure, bone meal. You cannot use bird droppings, even rotted ones, because it contains too much nitrogen.

How to care for strawberries in August: nuances of fertilizing

Fertilizers should be applied along the rows, not forgetting to first grind their components well and mix the substrate. Any, summer or autumn feeding strawberries in winter, in case of dry weather, require subsequent watering. For each square meter area requires up to two buckets of water.

Should organic fertilizers be mixed with mineral ones? For example, complex NPK fertilizer with humus? This should not be done unless you have the whole plantation strawberries A regular complex fertilizer is enough to enrich the soil with macroelements. However, if you are growing strawberries in heavy loam or clay soils(and also if the soil is close to depletion, has become gray and turns to dust when it dries), it is worth adding both organic matter and mineral water. The first will improve the soil structure, making the soil lighter and more “digestible” for the roots. And fertilizers will enrich it with nutrients.

How to care for strawberries in the fall for a good harvest

The main work on caring for strawberries for the winter should be completed in August. So what to do with strawberries in the fall? Before providing her with reliable shelter for the winter, there is practically nothing. Caring for strawberries in the fall involves keeping the soil loose in the rows and between rows and removing emerging weeds.

If you did not have time to feed strawberries in August, you can do this in September. How to feed strawberries in the fall? Yes, in general, the same as in the last summer month.

How to care for strawberries after harvest: cover for the winter

What to do if you found information about how to fertilize strawberries in the fall during planting or a recipe for summer fertilizers too late, and the berries did not receive the necessary nutrition? Such weakened bushes need additional shelter, for example, spruce branches, leaves or potato tops. To ensure that the layer of covering material remains loose and does not cake, it must be added in dry weather and light frost - about –2–3°C. This is especially important if straw is used, which attracts diseases and pests at elevated temperatures.

ON THE PICTURE: The covering material, in this case straw, is waiting in the wings. If you wrap strawberries earlier than expected for the winter, root rot may develop.

ON THE PICTURE:The layer of mulch that can protect strawberry bushes from frost should be 7–15 cm.

The task of caring for strawberries in August and September is to provide conditions for the development of flower buds nf next year and prepare the plants for wintering. At the same time, the dates - August-September - are given approximately, because the climate in different regions Russia is very different. In Petrozavodsk there are frosts already at the end of August, and in Krasnodar region October is the time to plant strawberries. Therefore, I give approximate dates for the Moscow region and the Middle Zone.

Loosening

Loosening the soil between rows improves air mode, reduce moisture loss by destroying the soil capillary system and destroy a significant part of the weeds. On small summer cottages It is advisable to loosen the soil as weeds emerge - usually once every 2 weeks - if, of course, strength allows. At industrial cultivation Cultivation of row spacing is carried out, which is alternated with irrigation.

Of course, if the rows are mulched with film, there is no need to loosen them, and it is impossible. Mulch solves the problem of moisture evaporation and weeds. That is why industrial plantings of strawberries are mulched in Germany, Great Britain, Poland and other countries where they are grown in large volumes.

Removing a mustache

The first tendrils appear during harvest, and then the plants continue to form them until the end of the growing season. In fruit-bearing areas, the mustache should be removed using scissors or pruning shears. Timely removal of whiskers promotes the formation of more buds for the next year.

When industrially growing strawberries, the whiskers are removed during row-spacing cultivation. Not all, of course: the most productive rosettes of the first order take root and are preserved. Therefore, the actual row spacing during the first year after planting is reduced from 90 to 60...70 cm.

Mowing or cutting leaves

Typically, leaves are mowed immediately after harvesting. Such leaves are often affected by mites and spots: therefore, by removing them, you also remove most of the infectious beginning. In addition, removing leaves improves the conditions for bud formation for the next year and increases yield by 5...10%.

If the leaves have not been affected by spots (primarily ramularia) and mites, mowing can be postponed to the end of July or the beginning of August. At this time, the leaves become old, turn red and lose their ability to photosynthesize. By removing them, you reduce the aspiration and consumption of substances necessary for the formation of buds and the differentiation of flower stalks.

Watering

Watering - essential element in the strawberry care system in the fall, and in August too.

For irrigation, use water at a temperature of 15...25 degrees. You can water by sprinkling or at the root. The volume and frequency of watering depend on soil conditions and weather. In hot, dry weather, the volume is increased to 100 liters m2 once a week.

At the end of September-October, at least 3 moisture-recharging irrigations should be carried out with a volume of about 40 liters per 1 m2. Such watering will increase the winter hardiness of plants, because in winter uncovered plantings often die not from the cold, but from drying out. In regions with a warm climate - for example, the Krasnodar Territory - irrigation is sometimes carried out even in dry, snowless winters.

Top dressing

According to some reports, foliar feeding of strawberries with a 0.3% urea solution in August promotes the formation of more flower buds. Feeding with a complex of microelements is also recommended - also for laying future flower stalks, as well as to increase winter hardiness. In industrial cultivation, the application rates of microfertilizers are determined based on leaf analysis. Amateur gardeners can simply use ready-made complex microfertilizers in accordance with the instructions.

Protection from pests and diseases

There are practically no specific protective measures in the list of strawberry care activities in September and October. Loosening the rows, removing old leaves (followed by burning them) and timely watering can significantly reduce infection and increase the resistance of plants, but that’s all. True, some modern authors (Zhbanova O.V., Zueva I.M.) recommend autumn spraying of plantings with the drug “Ordan” to protect against white spot (ramularia) and brown spot. At the same time, however, detailed recommendations There is no dosage and processing rate. In addition, it should be noted that the Ordan regulations do not provide for such processing.

Autumn processing is a guarantee of rich and quality harvest next season. Cut and remove old leaves, loosen and feed, cover plants on winter period- this is the basic care of strawberries. Autumn work with this crop they begin after the fruiting phase.

Weeding and loosening

The basic rule of pruning is: don't overdo it. Each bush needs to be cut directly leaf blade, preserving the protruding stems. Thus, the growing point remains intact, and the bushes soon begin to sprout new leaves. All tendrils of berry bushes also need to be removed.

Top dressing

Fertilizer application is another important step in the question of how to care for strawberries in the fall. The plant responds well to organic nutrients: bird (chicken) droppings, horse manure, mullein or humus. Gardeners also often add it (it replaces fertilizing well).

Concerning mineral fertilizers, you can use superphosphate or potassium salt.

Important!It is extremely undesirable to apply chlorine-containing substances as fertilizer, since the strawberry plant reacts poorly to chlorine.

First, humus, mullein, or mullein are laid out in small pieces over all the beds. Rains and scheduled watering will gradually dilute fertilizers, evaporating useful substances from them and delivering them deep into the strawberry root system.

However, the bed method works much faster. For this purpose, fresh droppings are dissolved in water in a ratio of 1:20 and thoroughly mixed. Then the resulting liquid is poured under the berry bushes. Consumption for 7–10 bushes is approximately 1 bucket of the composition. In case of use mineral supplements they are scattered around the area, embedded in the ground with a hoe. It is necessary to water immediately. To prevent a crust from forming on its surface after moistening the soil, the area is mulched or covered with pine needles. In the future, it will be possible to loosen the soil and water the plants through the layer.

Soil renewal

If you have a small land plot and you have to grow the same plant crop in one place year after year, it is natural that the soil needs renewal (improvement). In old soil, pathogens of fungal diseases accumulate, and the number of nutrients decreases.

The whole secret of renewing the land lies in enhanced agricultural cultivation technology. For example, you can create sunken or raised beds by filling them with humus or compost. In such conditions, the soil is partially replaced, microorganisms that process organic matter into new ground. In addition, the berries are abundantly supplied with nutrients.
Plants can be protected from and thanks to health-improving treatment of the soil under strawberries in the fall. Do not forget also that the beds need to be mulched from time to time. Mulch will serve as a barrier to the penetration of infections into the above-ground parts of strawberry plants.

Autumn transplant

For replanting, take one- or two-year-old bushes, previously divided into parts. You can also use the growth formed on the antennae. Transplantation is carried out primarily for the purpose of rejuvenating the planting. Over 3–4 years, berry bushes age, the number of flower stalks decreases, and the berries themselves become smaller.

It is carried out in the fall, since during this period the soil is wetter and warmer, and the weather is cool. Start replanting bushes in mid-August and finish in the first weeks of September. This way you give the plant time to take root, take root and grow good green mass.
Before winter, the strawberries will leave stronger and dressed in lush foliage. Most of the seedlings transplanted during this period easily survive the winter, and