Drawings of a hipped roof scheme in front of a semi-dome. Layout of rafters for a hipped roof. Installation of sheathing, vapor barrier, waterproofing

The roof is no less important element houses than the foundation and walls. Its design sets the mood for the entire architectural ensemble, making the building neat and attractive. The hipped roof has gained wide popularity not only because of its high reliability and external attractiveness, but also due to the opportunity to equip additional structures - attic and dormer windows, bay windows, etc. Despite the fact that the installation of such a roof is a little more expensive and more complicated than a gable structure, it is still easy to build it with your own hands.

Advantages of hip roofs over gable structures

One of the main tasks that appears at the design stage own home, is the choice of roof type. The presence of many options among gable and hipped structures requires an answer to the question of which roof to give preference to. And although the aesthetics of the structure plays an important role, the criteria of reliability and practicality still come to the fore.

A gable roof is a classic structure that is formed by two opposite slopes and a pair of vertical end parts called gables. The spacious under-roof space allows you to equip an attic, living space or use the attic for domestic purposes.

Classical gable roof easy to recognize by a pair of rectangular slopes that adjoin each other along the central axis of the building, and two triangular gables from its ends

Structures of this type, due to their simplicity and practicality, remained the most popular in individual construction for a long time. At the same time, the dependence of the roof geometry on the size of the building, as well as the complication and rise in cost of the structure when arranging the attic, forced the search for other, more practical and functional options. And they were found in the form of various four pitched roofs, which are based on a pair of triangular and two trapezoidal slopes. The latter are often called hips, and the roof itself is called a hip roof. When erecting a structure of this type, there is no need for gables and it becomes possible to make the building more modern and original.

Protozoan rays hip roof define surfaces in the form of two trapezoids and a pair of triangles

There are several advantages of hip roofs over traditional gable structures:

possibility of arrangement attic windows right on the slopes;
increased strength, reliability and stability of the rafter system;
increased resistance to weather factors;
the possibility of increasing the area of the attic by simply reducing the width of the base of the hip;
more uniform distribution of roof weight;
improved temperature regime when arranging an attic space.

Don’t be fooled by the many advantages of a more stylish hipped roof - it also has disadvantages. These include a more complex design, a slight reduction in the size of the attic space and wasteful use of roofing material. As for expenses, the budget required for the construction of one and the other roof differs slightly.

The hipped roof is not a know-how in architecture - its design has been known since ancient times

Classification of hip roofs

Differences in the shape of buildings, as well as the requirements for functionality and practicality of the traditional hip roof, have led to many variations. If we do not consider the most exotic of them, then we can distinguish several main types of hipped roofs.

Traditional hip roof, the side slopes of which reach the eaves level. To construct its main surfaces, straight rafters are used, and the ribs of the hips form beams extending from the ends of the ridge. The elaborate design and distribution of the weight of the roof over a larger area allows not only to position the overhangs on the same line, but also to increase their reach. Thanks to this, the façade of the building is reliably protected from rain even in strong gusts of wind.

Glazing elements are often built into the slopes of a classic hip roof.
A hip roof can be installed on a house that has a square shape in plan. A feature of this design is the slopes of the same configuration. Their ribs converge at one point, and their hips have the shape of isosceles triangles.

Hip roofs are widely used in modern individual construction
Half-hip roofs got their name because of the shortened hips. Unlike traditional roofing, their length is reduced by 1.5–3 times compared to the size of the main slopes.

The side slopes of half-hip roofs have a shortened length, so they do not reach the eaves line
The Danish half-hip roof has a small gable under the ridge and a short hip on the eaves side. This design allows you to install ventilation and lighting elements directly into the vertical end of the roof, thereby eliminating the need for installation skylights.

The Danish project is good because it allows you to easily equip attic spaces
A half-hip Dutch roof has a vertical gable that divides the hip into two short slopes. Although the Dutch rafter system has increased complexity, it makes it more spacious and practical. attic space. In addition, this design is excellent for installing vertical glazing in the attic.

A roof built according to a Dutch design is still rare in our area.
A sloping hip roof has several slopes of different sizes on one slope. Thanks to their different slopes, it is possible to increase the volume of the under-roof space. Although a broken structure cannot be called simple, houses with such a roof are very common. The reason for its popularity is the opportunity to arrange additional living rooms on the upper tier. For this reason, a roof with broken slopes is often called an attic roof.

broken roof somewhat burdens the architecture of the building, but it allows you to arrange several living spaces in the attic space

There are also more complex structures consisting of many hips, as well as those in which a hipped roof is combined with other types of roofing systems. The design and installation of such a roof requires many years of experience and knowledge, so it is better to entrust the construction of a sophisticated roof to specialists.

Design of hip roofs

When developing a hip roof, all types of loads that will affect it are taken into account. To do this, you must first decide several important issues:

purpose of the attic space;
roofing material;
degree of atmospheric influence in the construction region.

Based on these factors, the degree of slope of the slopes and the roof area are determined, the loads are calculated and a decision is made on the design and parameters of the rafter system.

Geometric parameters of slopes

The angle of inclination of the slopes depends on the snow and wind load, therefore it varies within a very wide range - from 5 to 60 degrees. In areas with rainy weather and high snow cover, roofs with a slope of 45 to 60 degrees are erected. If the region is characterized by strong winds and minimal precipitation, then the slope can be reduced to the very minimum.

When determining the angular parameters of the roof, it is necessary to take into account what material it will be covered with:

slate sheets, ondulin, roofing metal and rolled materials are laid on slopes with a slope of 14 to 60 degrees;
the tiles are mounted on a surface with a degree of slope from 30 to 60 degrees;
roll covering used on sloping slopes - from 5 to 18 degrees.

Having decided on the angle of the roof, it is not at all difficult to calculate at what height the ridge will be. To do this, use simple trigonometric formulas for a right triangle.

Roof area

Even the most complex hip roof consists of individual slopes that follow the contours of the simplest geometric shapes, therefore, most often for calculations it is enough to know the linear dimensions of the base and the angles of inclination of the hips.

To determine the square footage of the roof, it is necessary to add up the areas of the slopes of which it consists

Total area roofs are calculated by summing the quadrature of the individual hips. Slopes of complex configuration are divided into several simple surfaces, after which separate calculations are carried out for each of them.

The principles for calculating the geometric parameters of hip roofs are based on calculations for simple surfaces

Load calculation

Loads acting on a hipped roof are divided into two types:

permanent,
periodic.

The first includes the weight of roofing materials, rafters, sheathing and other frame parts. The second is the forces exerted by precipitation and wind force. In addition, the calculation should take into account the payload in the form of various engineering systems and communications attached to the elements of the rafter system.

Based on SNiP, when designing a roof it is necessary to assume a snow load of 180 kg/sq.m. m. If there is a danger of snow accumulation on the roof, this parameter increases to 400–450 kg/sq. m. If the roof has a slope angle of more than 60 degrees, then the snow load can be ignored - precipitation does not linger on surfaces with such steep slopes.

The force of wind loads is much less - up to 35 kg/sq. m. If the roof slope is from 5 to 30 degrees, then the effect of the wind can be neglected.

The above parameters of atmospheric influences are average values accepted for the middle zone. When performing calculations, correction factors should be used depending on the region of construction.

Calculation of the rafter system

When calculating the rafter system, the pitch of the rafters and the maximum load they can carry are determined. Based on these data, a decision is made to install braces, which help redistribute the load, and tie-downs, which protect the frame from loosening.

The main load of the hip roof falls on the diagonal rafters

The presence of hips on hipped roofs, in addition to the usual rafters, requires the installation of diagonal rafters (in other words, slanted ones) - those that are attached to the ridge and directed to the corners of the building. Their length is greater than the transverse node elements of the roof. In addition, shortened elements - sprigs - are attached to the diagonal ribs. Compared to conventional rafters, slanted legs experience a load increased by 1.5–2 times, so their cross-section is doubled, and to ensure multi-span they are supported by one or two racks.

Often, hip roofs have a complicated rafter system, which, in contrast to a simple hipped structure, places additional load where vertical supports are installed. This feature must be taken into account when calculating the strength wooden frame roofs.

The distance for laying the rafters is called the pitch and is determined based on the length of the rafter leg and the cross-section of the lumber used. It is most convenient to determine this parameter using special tables, one of which is given below.

Table: dependence of the cross-section and pitch of rafters on their length

Manual calculations are quite labor-intensive. To reduce design time, you can use one of the online calculators to determine the parameters of hip roofs. With its help, you can determine not only geometric parameters, but also a host of other equally important factors:

amount of moisture and heat insulation, taking into account overlaps;
amount of roofing material, including waste generated during cutting;
the volume of lumber required for arranging the rafter system;
length of overhangs, etc.

Video: using a construction calculator to calculate a roof

What materials will be needed to assemble the rafter system?

For the construction of a hip roof, timber and boards made of larch, pine and other coniferous wood are best suited. When choosing material for construction, it is necessary to carefully reject defective boards. Fungal damage, knots and cracks reduce the strength of the boards and affect the durability of the roof. When the wood moisture content is more than 22%, lumber is stacked on outdoors and dry. It should be understood that under-dried boards can warp, and this, in turn, will lead to a violation of the roof geometry with possible damage finishing coating.

To assemble a wooden frame, a rectangular beam with a cross-section from 80x80 mm to 150x150 mm is used - the exact parameters are determined by calculation or using the table above. As an alternative, you can use a board with a section of 50x100 mm or 50x200 mm. If there is a need to strengthen the rafter leg, then paired boards are used.

For reliable fastening, as well as increasing the rigidity of the wooden frame, steel brackets and other metal elements are used. Often, steel supports, rather than wooden ones, are installed under particularly loaded ridge girders. Combined frames have increased strength and reliability.

Features of the rafter system

In order to correctly design and install a hip roof, it is necessary to understand in detail its design, as well as the design features of the most common types of hip roofs.

The structure of the rafter system in detail

The frame of a hip roof consists of most of the same parts as a gable roof, but a more complex rafter system requires the installation of additional elements. Upon closer examination, the following components can be found:

All these elements can be found in any type of hip roof. The only exception is the hip roof, which is the side rafters and ridge beam does not have.

In wooden and frame houses, the rafter system is installed without a Mauerlat. In the first case, its functions are taken over by the outer crowns, and in the second - by the upper trim.

Types of rafter systems for hip roofs

Since the basis of the hip roof rafter system is made up of slanted rafters, when installing the roof frame, you must adhere to the following rules:

In structures where the slanted legs experience increased load, timber of double thickness is used for their manufacture.
The splicing of individual parts of diagonal rafters is carried out in places with maximum load (most often in their upper part) and strengthened with the help of struts and vertical racks, installed at an angle of 90° to the rafter legs.
When making slanted rafters, allowance should be made for local trimming, so the estimated length of the beam is increased by 5–10%.
Critical connection points of slanted rafter legs must be reinforced with metal fasteners - staples, twists or perforated construction strips.

When choosing a rafter system, it is necessary to take into account the size of the building and the presence of internal supports or permanent walls. Based on specific conditions, a scheme with hanging or layered rafters is chosen.

Hanging rafter system

A hanging rafter roof structure has no centerline supports, so the bulk of the weight falls on the outer perimeter walls. This feature manifests itself in the redistribution of internal forces - the rafter system is subjected to compressive and bending loads. As for the walls, significant pushing forces are transmitted to them. To eliminate this factor, each pair of rafters is connected to each other by so-called ties - jumpers made of wooden beams or rolled metal.

The tie can be located either at the base of the rafter legs or above. In the first case, the jumper will also play the role of cross beam, which is a good option when constructing an attic roof. If the tightening is installed in the area of the midline or above, then it will only serve as a securing link. It should be noted that the cost of the rafter system depends on such a seemingly insignificant moment as the installation height of the tie rods. The higher the transverse jumpers are located, the larger the cross-section of all components of the wooden frame should be.

Hip roofs with layered and hanging rafters have differences between the supporting elements of the structure

Construction with layered rafters

A hip roof with layered rafters is suitable only for those houses whose internal space is divided into two equal parts by a main wall or installed to support the ceiling support pillars. In this case, the lower edge of the rafter legs rests on the mauerlat, and the middle part rests on the load-bearing partition. The presence of additional support points allows you to relieve the elements of the rafter system by removing alternating horizontal forces from them, as well as from the walls of the building. Like roof beams, rafters begin to work only in bending. A frame with layered rafters becomes more rigid and durable compared to a structure that uses unsupported rafters. And this despite the fact that in the first case you can use timber of a smaller cross-section. And this helps reduce the weight of the wooden structure and reduces the cost of purchasing lumber.

Installation of a hip roof

The assembly of the rafter system must be carried out in a strictly defined order. This is necessary in order to correctly install and secure all structural elements of the roof.

To redistribute the load exerted on the walls by the roofing structure, wind and precipitation, a Mauerlat is laid on the external walls. In individual construction, timber with a cross-section of at least 100x150 mm is used for these purposes. For fastening longitudinal beams designs use anchor studs. They must be laid in the upper rows of the masonry at the stage of wall construction. Waterproofing of the Mauerlat is carried out using two layers of roofing material, which is laid on top of the load-bearing walls.

The Mauerlat is attached to the load-bearing wall using bolts or anchors
If it is necessary to install vertical supports, beds are laid on the load-bearing walls. For horizontal alignment elements of the rafter system use wooden linings. In the future, this will greatly simplify the installation of racks and purlins. If capital partitions are not provided for in the building plan, then vertical supports are mounted on floor beams. To do this, they are strengthened by joining two 50x200 mm boards or using one 100x200 mm beam.

Support of vertical posts on beams is allowed only if the structure rests on a permanent pier
Set up support posts. To level them, use a plumb line or laser level, after which temporary supports are installed. Metal angles and plates are used to attach the vertical support to the beam or horizontal beam.
Purlins are laid on top of the racks. A traditional hip roof requires the installation of one purlin, which, in fact, forms the ridge. Tent structures require the installation of four purlins. As with the installation of racks, fastening is carried out using metal corners and self-tapping screws.

The ridge purlin can be attached either directly to rafter leg, and through wooden overlays
Preparing the rafters. The side rafters of simple hipped roofs are mounted in exactly the same way as the rafters on a gable roof. First you need to make a template. To do this, from the side of the outer support, apply a board of the same width as the rafters to the ridge. Its thickness should not exceed 25 mm - the template should be light. On this board, mark the notch necessary for reliable support and precise fit of the rafter leg to the ridge beam, as well as a cutout corresponding to the junction with the Mauerlat. The marked areas are cut out and then used for quick preparation of the rafter legs.

Making a template can reduce the time it takes to prepare rafters for installation
By applying the manufactured sample to the purlin, it is necessary to check whether precise adjustment of the rafters is necessary. If there are gaps, cuts in the rafters are made taking into account the amendments. After all the supporting legs are ready, they are set in increments of 50–150 cm and attached to the Mauerlat and the ridge. For installation, staples are best suited, but strong metal corners can also be used.
As already mentioned, diagonal rafters are made from spliced boards or timber of increased cross-section. To install them, you will also need a template, which is prepared in full accordance with the method described above. Since the slanted rafters are adjacent to the corner of the mauerlat on one side, and rest on the racks on the other, the cut is made at an angle of 45° to the plane.

The layout of rafters and soffits on a hip roof is carried out according to a template
In the gaps between the sloped rafters, sprigs are attached. Their step corresponds to the distance between the rafters, and the diagonal legs and the mauerlat act as support points. The load experienced by the rafters cannot be compared with the weight that falls on the rafters, so the former can be constructed from boards 30–50 mm thick. To speed up installation, you will need a template with notches on the side of the diagonal rafters and the mauerlat, but the cutouts on half of the frames must be made in a mirror image.

Use of metal fastening elements makes the rafter system more rigid and stable
If there is a need, fillies are attached to the rafters and frames. The ends of the rafter elements are cut along the cord.

Attaching the rafters to the Mauerlat can be done in several ways
Strengthen the slopes and side rafters. In the first case, vertical trusses are used, and in the second, struts installed at an angle of 45° are used. They are supported on beds or beams.
After the rafter system is assembled, a roofing pie is installed on top of it.

The rafter system is prepared for installation of roofing materials

Lathing and insulation

Before proceeding with the installation of the sheathing, a vapor barrier and, if necessary, rolled thermal insulation are laid on top of the rafters. The top layer of insulation is covered with a waterproofing film, which is mounted with an overlap of 10–20 mm wide and secured to the beam with a construction stapler. After this, counter battens are nailed to the rafters. If the roofing pie is installed without insulation, then a vapor barrier is not required - a layer of moisture-resistant material will be sufficient. Of course, additional slats will not be needed in this case, since the boards supporting the roof will be attached directly to the frames and rafter legs.

Depending on the type of roofing material, one of two types of sheathing is used on hip roofs:

continuous;
sparse.

The first is most often equipped for a soft roof and only in some cases - for arranging an attic space. This type of lathing is made from boards with a width of 100 to 200 mm and a thickness of at least 20–25 mm. Installation is carried out without gaps. In addition, the use of plywood sheets and OSB boards is allowed. Their advantage is an extremely flat surface, which allows you to lay roofing material with minimal time and effort.

Under the soft roof, a continuous sheathing of OSB, plywood or boards packed without a gap is installed

For sparse sheathing, the same boards are used as in the first case, but they are mounted with a gap. Since this type of base is used for laying slate, corrugated sheets, metal tiles and roofing iron, the distance between individual boards must take into account the characteristics of the roofing material.

The sheathing is fastened with nails, the length of which is equal to triple the thickness of the boards. If self-tapping screws are used for fixation, then you can use a shorter threaded fastener with a length corresponding to double the thickness of the lumber.

To fasten slate, ondulin and other sheet materials, use sparse lathing

Wooden base The roofing pie is mounted from the bottom up, with the first board of each slope being aligned parallel to the Mauerlat. First, the sheathing is stuffed on the hips, after which the protruding edges are cut off with a hacksaw flush with the diagonal ribs. Next, they begin to fasten the lumber on the main slopes, releasing the edges of the boards beyond the sloped rafters. After this, the ends of the boards are sawed down similarly to the first case.

Video: building a hip roof with your own hands

Typical hip roof design

When building a simple hip roof, you can use a standard project developed by specialists. Project documentation includes:

technological map;
roof plan;
rafter system diagrams;
drawings of sections and corner connections;
statement and specification with a complete list of materials used.

As an example, below is the documentation for standard project hip roof for a house with an area of 155 sq. m.

Gallery: drawings and diagrams of a hipped roof

The drawing indicates the exact dimensions of all roof elements. At the base roof truss triangles lie Rafters of trapezoidal slopes rest on the long load-bearing walls of the building Tie-downs are installed at the base of the rafters and act as floor beams When creating a project, it is necessary to take into account the length of the rafters, their pitch, the recommended cross-section of beams or boards To fasten the rafters, wooden and hardware Fastenings allow you to transfer the load from one element of the system to another

Despite the apparent complexity of a hipped roof, building it with your own hands is not much more difficult than gable structure. It is only important to carefully understand the purpose of the individual elements and the principles of constructing the rafter system. Otherwise, the reliability and durability of the roof will still depend on adherence to technology and careful installation. As for the additional difficulties and costs, they will be repaid with complete satisfaction from the work, which will make the building brighter and more attractive.

A roof made of four slopes - what is it good for? The numerous operational advantages of this type certainly outweigh the disadvantages. Is the rafter system so simple? hipped roof, as many newcomers to the construction business think? You will definitely find out soon! We will describe important nuances and features of the stages of erecting a hip roof in this article.

What do you need to know about hip truss systems?

There are two options for hip roofs: hip and hip. The first type has the shape of a rectangular envelope, consisting of two main trapezoidal slopes and a ridge, and two pediment (side) slopes - triangles:

A hip roof is four identical isosceles triangles connected at one top point (reminiscent of a tent):

Both options provide for the installation of both layered and hanging rafters, which are installed using standard technologies.

How to choose the type of rafter system for a 4-pitched roof?

With absence central support roofing, the choice is made in favor of a hanging rafter system. If you can find upper and lower supports for each rafter, then you should choose a layered structure. This option is simpler and more accessible for non-professional craftsmen. You just need to remember two main conditions: when rigidly fastening the bottom and top of the stops, a reinforced Mauerlat is needed, since the thrust is transferred to it; with a hinged fastening or a semi-rigid connection (for example, the top is hinged and the bottom is rigid or vice versa), the Mauerlat does not need to be reinforced:

The choice of one type of hip roof should be determined by the shape of the house itself. For square houses are being built hip rafters, for rectangular ones - hip ones. Also, you can find complex multi-pitched roofs of a combined type, which contain both hip and hip elements.

Both hip and hipped structures retain the basic functions of a gable roof (for example, the possibility of arranging an attic) and look very aesthetically pleasing:

Why is a hipped roof more popular than a gable roof?

“Why the extra headache and complexity?”, you ask: “After all, you can build a simple gable roof much faster and cheaper." Here the craftsmen emphasize some important points in favor of choosing exactly four slopes for the roof:

High wind resistance. Four pitched roof has no pediments, all its planes are inclined towards the ridge. This design minimizes the impact strong wind and reduces possible destructive consequences to “0”.
The most successful load distribution. A multi-pitched roof can withstand the maximum amount of precipitation, since the gentle slopes take part of the main load. Therefore, sagging, deformation and destruction of the rafter system, in this case, have a minimal probability.
Availability of choice of any method of roof insulation. Straight gables require a special approach when choosing the type of roof insulation, since they are located vertically and are subject to wind blowing. The gentle slopes of hip and hip systems make it possible to evenly insulate the roof with any available material.

In addition to the listed “advantages”, a roof with four slopes perfectly conserves heat, can be covered with any roofing material and always has a neat appearance.

Construction of a four-slope rafter system

The four-slope rafter structure consists of the following elements: mauerlat, ridge beam, central and hip rafters, slanted legs, as well as beds, racks, crossbars, struts and other reinforcing parts. Let's look at the most basic elements.

I. Mauerlat

The Mauerlat is the most important part of the structure, since the entire rafter system rests on it. It represents a powerful wooden beam 100x200, 100x250, 100x100, 150x250, 200x200 cm. The mauerlat is made from solid high-quality wood, mainly coniferous. The rafter system of a hip roof, like any multi-pitched roof, requires thorough fastening of the base beam. The procedure for installing the Mauerlat in this case: the formation of a monolithic foundation at the end of the load-bearing walls with the installation of spiers; laying waterproofing; processing and installation of Mauerlat around the perimeter of the entire house; reinforced with anchors and other fastenings for maximum reliability of the base.

The Mauerlat can be laid on the edge of the wall, or in a pocket provided for laying bricks with inside load-bearing walls.

II. Sloping legs

Sloping legs are the four corner rafters that rest on the edges of the ridge and the corners of the mauerlat. They are the longest among all the rafter legs of the system, therefore they must have a cross-section of at least 100x150 mm for maximum rigidity.

III. Ridge beam

Ridge purlin is a horizontal beam that connects all the rafters, the top of the rafter system. The beam must be strengthened with racks and struts. The ridge must be positioned strictly parallel to the plane of the attic floor and perpendicular to the racks.

IV. Rafters

Rafters for a hipped roof are divided into: central (attached to the mauerlat and ridge); main hip ones (attached to the ridge axis and Mauerlat); intermediate and shortened (installed on sloping legs and Mauerlat, connecting the corners of the slopes).

V. Strengthening elements

Additional reinforcing elements include ridge beam posts, crossbars or floor beams, rafter struts, wind beams, etc.

DIY rafter system for a hipped roof

Let's look at the step-by-step construction process truss structure. For clarity, we have chosen the most popular option - hip roofing. The hip roof rafter system, a diagram of which step by step, is presented to your attention below:

Step I: Create a Project

To depict your version of a hip roof in a drawing, you need to calculate the height, length, slopes of the slopes and roof area. This is necessary for clear and quality implementation project and selection of the required amount of consumables:

Calculations should begin by choosing the angle of the roof slopes. The optimal slope is considered to be an angle of 20-450. The magnitude of the slope must correspond to the climatic characteristics of the region. So, in particularly windy areas, the slope should be kept to a minimum, and for areas where there is frequent and heavy rainfall, the steepest slope angle is necessary. In addition to the weather environment, you also need to consider the roofing material you plan to use. For a soft roof the degree of inclination should be less, for a hard roof it should be greater.

And one more small one, but important nuance on this issue, it is better to make the slope angle the same for all four slopes. So the load will be distributed evenly, and the structure will be as stable as possible, and the aesthetic appeal will remain “at its best.”

Now, knowing the angle of inclination and the width of the house, we can use simple mathematics to calculate the height of the ridge, the length of the rafter legs, racks and other details of the rafter system. When calculating the length of the rafters, do not forget to take into account the eaves overhang (as a rule, its length is 40-50 cm).

The roof area for purchasing the required amount of roofing material is calculated as the sum of the areas of all slopes of the structure.

How to draw a roof drawing correctly?

We select the scale of the drawing and transfer the dimensions of the house in scale onto a sheet of paper;
Next, we transfer the selected dimensions of our roof onto the diagram: the height of the ridge, its length, the number and size of rafter legs, struts, racks and all the details, in accordance with the calculations made earlier;
Now you can count everything necessary materials and start searching for them.

Step II: Preparing for work

To erect a roof frame, you will need standard tools and equipment: drills, screwdrivers, jigsaws, hammers, chisels, etc. We already know required amount materials for the rafter system, so we can purchase them. The lumber for the frame must be solid, have no cracks, wormholes, have a light shade, without gray or yellow plaque, smell like fresh wood. Wet wood should not be laid on the roof immediately; it must be dried, treated with an antiseptic solution and dried again. Wood humidity should not exceed 20%.

Step III: Mounting the Mauerlat

Mauerlat – basic part the entire rafter system. It transfers thrust loads to the load-bearing walls of the house. Installing a Mauerlat for a hipped roof is no different from similar structures with two or one slope. This process is described in as much detail as possible in our previous articles.

The base beam, the parameters of which are described above, is placed on an armored belt and high-quality waterproofing. If it is necessary to connect the Mauerlat, then the bars are cut into half the section and overlapped using strong fasteners.

Step IV: Laying the floor beams or beams

If there are load-bearing walls inside the house, then it is necessary to install beams on their ends - the basis for support posts roofing system. If there are no more load-bearing floors in the house, then the attic floor is covered with reinforced beams, on which roof supports are subsequently installed, and then the attic floor pie is laid.

Beams must have a cross-section of at least 100x200 mm. The step between them is 60 cm. You can slightly adjust this figure, depending on the characteristics of your home. The distance between the outer beams and the mauerlat should not be less than 90 cm. This distance is used for installing the half-beams of the eaves overhang (extension). The stems are attached to the two outer beams using strong anchors and reinforced metal corners.

Step V: Installation of support posts, purlins and ridge

Racks are an important part for supporting the structure; they redistribute the weight of the rafter system onto the beams or floor beams. The racks are installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the bed. In hipped systems, the supports are installed under the ridge beam (hip roof) or under the corner rafters (hipped roof):

The racks must be securely attached to the base using metal plates and reinforced corners. The purlins are installed as additional support for the racks. In a hip roof, the purlins are rectangular in shape, while for the hips they are ordinary ridge purlins.

After we have made sure that the supports are installed correctly (using a meter and a level), we can attach the upper ridge beam. It is mounted on vertical posts and reinforced with reliable metal fastenings(plates, corners, anchors and screws). Now let's take on the corner extensions:

Step VI: Installation of rafters

First, you need to install the side rafters, which rest on the ridge beam and the Mauerlat (or are secured with an extension). To do this, you need to make a template rafter with the appropriate cuts. We apply the rafter leg to the ridge, mark the place of the cut with a pencil, then mark the place of the cut of the rafters for joining with the Mauerlat and make cuts. Attach the rafter to the supports again to make sure that the connection is correct and to correct any imperfections. Now this sample can be used to make all the side rafters. Installation of the rafter legs of the main slopes is carried out according to the general rules described in the design of a gable rafter system (see article and video).

Diagonal (corner) rafters are installed next. Their upper edge is installed on the stand and joins the edge of the ridge beam. Before this, measurements are taken and the corresponding cuts of the rafter legs are made. The lower end of the diagonals is fixed in the corners of the Mauerlat:

Since diagonal rafters are longer than all other legs, they require additional support. This function is performed by trusses - support beams that are installed under each diagonal leg, in its lower quarter (this is where the greatest load occurs). Sprengels, like ridge posts, are installed on supporting corner beams located in the plane of the floor beams.

Between the corner ribs the space is filled with auxiliary rafter legs - sprigs. Bottom part they rest on the mauerlat, and the upper one rests on the diagonal rafter leg. The step between the frames should be equal to the step between the side rafters (50-150 cm).

Step VII: Sheathing

It remains to complete the final stage of forming the roofing skeleton - installing the sheathing. These are boards or bars 50x50 mm, which are attached to the rafters parallel to the ridge girder and the mauerlat. The pitch of the sheathing boards is 50-60 cm. This is quite enough for laying the roofing pie. When a soft roof is provided, the sheathing is laid in 2 layers (counter-lattice and sheathing).

Finally, a few videos:

So, we described the installation of the rafter system of a hipped roof, its basic principles, and even went a little deeper into some of the nuances. Hip and tent structures are, although not the simplest, but quite feasible options for every novice craftsman. Especially if he has good assistants. We wish you success in your work!

DIY hipped roof: drawings and photos below.

How to install a hipped roof

Drawing of the rafter system plan

Installation of sheathing, vapor barrier, waterproofing

Arrangement different layers a hipped roof requires careful attention to each stage of work.

Each laid layer has its own function, all layers together form a single system, which provides protection to the structure.

Laying the sheathing

Sheathing is a wooden structure consisting of beams located across the rafters. The optimal cross-section of the sheathing bars is 50x50 mm.

Before installing the batten boards, they require treatment with antiseptic agents..

The lathing is installed either in a continuous layer or in increments of 100-150 mm (depending on the external covering).

The sheathing should be secured with nails.

Installation of sheathing

Installation of vapor barrier

A vapor barrier film is installed in order to to prevent moisture from entering the thermal insulation layer. The vapor barrier film is attached to the sheathing boards with an overlapping stapler. The overlaps are sealed with tape.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the film fits tightly to the boards. In areas where pipes or windows are installed, rubber or polyurethane adhesive tapes can be used.

CAREFULLY!

The vapor barrier material should not bend around the sheathing boards to prevent the formation of places for water accumulation.

Water vapor has a high penetrating ability, therefore installation of vapor barrier is a very important stage of work.

Installation of vapor barrier

Installation of waterproofing

After installing the insulation, waterproofing is laid. Waterproofing does not allow moisture accumulated in the under-roof space to pass into the roofing pie. Like thermal insulation film, the waterproofing is laid overlapping and the joints are glued.

It is especially important to correctly lay the film in the ridge part. The ridge area is most susceptible to the accumulation of condensate vapor.

The importance of each stage of installing a hip roof cannot be underestimated, much less refuse to install any element.

Installation of waterproofing

Hip roofs are considered the most durable and durable. They were installed more than a hundred years ago, and such structures have proven themselves to be reliable and durable.

Despite the complexity of the design, You can install it yourself, the main thing is to carry out each stage of work step by step in a clear sequence and choose a quality one, reliable material, because the roof must protect the house for decades.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to build a hip roof with your own hands:

In contact with

Building a house with your own hands is a long and labor-intensive process, and also very expensive in terms of finances. If you wish, you can save on roof installation and do the installation of a 4-pitch roof yourself.

The hip roof is the most popular type of roof, which is also quite easy to construct. with my own hands. If you have at least minimal skills and experience construction work, then, following the instructions, you can build the roof yourself. The choice of a 4-pitch design is explained by its many advantages - effective drainage of rainwater and snow, resistance to wind loads. Under such a roof you can build a spacious attic. The cost of constructing a roof also plays an important role; a 4-pitch roof is a fairly economical option.

Kinds

There are several types of roofs with 4 slopes. The most popular is the so-called hip roof. It consists of two trapezoids and two triangles. Trapezoidal slopes are connected to each other along the upper edge, and triangular ones are connected to them from the front sides.

Another common option is four triangular surfaces connected at one central point. You can also create almost any project that includes slopes at different levels, different shapes, with a broken connection line, etc.

If you are not a construction professional, then when creating a 4-pitch roof, choose a hip roof as it is the easiest to install.

How to make a 4-pitch roof with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

Before you begin installing the roof, you should draw up a project. You can do the calculations yourself, as there is nothing complicated about it. The main thing is to understand what this or that parameter in the diagram depends on.

Slope angle

When calculating the slope angle of the slopes, three indicators are used:

precipitation in the region

roof material

The slope can be from 5 to 60 degrees. You should also consider whether you will be developing an attic space. If the slopes are too flat, then the height of the attic will be small - it will be impossible to create a living room here. Thus, for the construction of an attic, the slope of the slopes should be no more than 45 degrees.

If the area is characterized by frequent gusty winds or precipitation large quantity precipitation in winter, you should not make a roof with an angle of less than 30 degrees.

If the slope is 60 degrees or more, then atmospheric phenomena climate zone can be ignored.

As for the roofing material, building codes minimum values are provided for each of them.

Rolled materials made from bitumen can be laid horizontally.
Asbestos cement and clay tiles - at an angle of 9 degrees.
Roofing materials made of steel - slope of 18 degrees or more.
Wood - from 34 degrees.

Height

The height of the roof is the parameter that will need to be calculated. We know the area of the base since the box is built. The angle of the roof was calculated at the previous stage. Thus, by applying simple formulas from the school curriculum, it will be possible to calculate the height of the ridge.

Preparation. Required tools and materials

Prepare everything in advance necessary tools so as not to be distracted by searching for them later. You will need:

hacksaw
measuring instruments: plumb line, level and tape measure
chisel
circular saw
drill
screwdriver
hammer

Of the materials, the main role is given to the roofing covering. Do not forget also about the fasteners with which it will be attached to the rafter system.

For lathing a hipped roof, high-quality lumber is used, larch or pine wood is suitable.

The maximum humidity of boards and beams is 22%.

For rafters - boards 50 x 100 mm or 50 x 200 mm
For Mauerlat - timber 150 x 150 mm or more
Sheathing boards

Also purchase metal studs with threads and metal plates - these elements will be used for fastening. You will also need an antiseptic to pre-treat the wood. To complete the roof installation as quickly as possible, prepare hydro- and thermal insulation material, which are provided for by the project.

Rafter system

Mauerlat. This is the base of the rafter system, which is made of thick timber. If you are making a roof on log house, then the role of the mauerlat will be played by the last crown of the log house. If the house is brick, then the installation of the Mauerlat is also planned in advance. A concrete belt is made under it, into which metal studs are walled up. The timber is subsequently fixed to them.
Ridge run. This is the most top part system, a thick beam on which rafter boards will subsequently be attached.
Rafters. These elements are boards from which the main frame is created.
- diagonal rafters connect the corners of the mauerlat and the ridge girder
- row rafters are mounted on trapezoidal slopes
- the rafter half-legs rest on the mauerlat, and on the other side - on the diagonal rafters
Sill. It is installed parallel to the ridge girder on the load-bearing wall. Its task is to transfer part of the weight of the roof to the frame.
Support posts. They connect the bed and the ridge girder, making the structure more durable.
Struts. They rest on the beam and support the diagonal rafters to reduce the load on them.
Other auxiliary structural elements - truss, tightening, fillies, crossbars. They support certain parts of the sheathing and relieve the load from them.

Stages of frame installation work

Installation of the Mauerlat and the bench.
Installation of vertical posts in increments of 1000 - 1200 mm.
Fastening the ridge girder.
Installation of rafter legs. First, one element is made and fitted to the Mauerlat and ridge girder. The rest of the parts are made on its basis. The installation pitch of the rafter legs is 600 or 1200 mm.
Installation of diagonal rafters. The fastening begins from the top, the boards are cut into the ridge so that they become its continuation. They are attached from below in the corners of the Mauerlat.
Fastening of sprigs.
Installation of struts and trusses. These elements are not always necessary. If the structure is strong enough without them, then there is no need for installation.
Additional elements are required if the length of the rafters is 6 meters or more. In other cases - at your discretion.
Installation of waterproofing. The selected material is fastened using a construction stapler.
Sheathing flooring. If it is solid, regular plywood will do. Boards are used for the lattice frame.
Laying roofing material. Fastening is carried out exclusively in a way that is suitable for the specifically selected building material. It is best to use the fasteners included in the kit.
Installation of a drainage system. This is the final part of the roof installation work.

If you plan to use the attic space as a residential attic, you need to insulate it from the inside. Then all that remains is to carry out the finishing work - and the roof is ready for use both outside and inside.

If you are not confident in your own knowledge, you can order a hip roof project from professionals. It is often done at the same time as the house project. In any case, it will cost less than restoring the roof after installation according to incorrect parameters.
If you know computer programs, you can create a roof layout in 3D projection.
Don't skimp on materials. Before installation, carefully check all boards for strength and treat them with an antiseptic. There should be no cracks, bends or irregularities on the elements. For the rafter system, materials of grade 1 and higher are used.
Before installing the Mauerlat, the surface of the walls can be covered with roofing felt.
The Mauerlat must be fastened very firmly so that it does not move even a fraction of a millimeter during operation. This is the basis of the entire rafter system, on which the strength of the roof depends.
The connection of rafter elements to each other is carried out using metal corners, which are firmly attached to the connected elements with bolts.

Thus, it is quite possible to make a hipped hip roof with your own hands if you have at least basic construction skills. All you need is careful preparation, studying the theory and drawing up a detailed project with calculation of the amount of materials needed.

An example of the construction of a hip roof can be seen in the following video:

Construction of a frame for a roof with four slopes is a complex process with characteristic technological features. During construction, our own structural components are used, the sequence of work is different. But the result will amaze with its spectacular shape and durability when repelling atmospheric attacks. And the home master will be able to be proud of his personal achievements in the field of roofing.

However, before deciding to install such a design, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the algorithm according to which the rafter system of a hipped roof is constructed and with the specifics of its design.

The class of hipped roofs combines two types of structures that resemble a square and rectangular envelope in plan. The first variety is called tent, the second - hip. Compared to their pitched counterparts, they are distinguished by the absence of pediments, called gables in the roofing industry. In the construction of both versions of hipped structures, layered and hanging rafters are used, the installation of which is carried out in accordance with standard technologies for the construction of pitched rafter systems.

Characteristic differences within the four-slope class:

In a hip roof, all four slopes have the shape of isosceles triangles, the vertices of which converge at one highest point. There is no ridge as such in a tent structure; its function is performed by the central support in layered systems or the top of a hanging truss.
For a hip roof, a pair of main slopes has a trapezoidal configuration, and the second pair has a triangular configuration. The hip structure differs from its tent-type counterpart in the obligatory presence of a ridge, to which the trapezoids are adjacent at the upper bases. Triangular slopes, also known as hips, are adjacent to the ridge at the top, and their sides are connected to the inclined sides of the trapezoids.

Based on the configuration of the roofs in plan, it is clear that hipped structures are usually erected over square buildings, and hip structures over rectangular houses. Both soft and . The characteristic square or rectangular shape is repeated in the drawings of the rafter system of a hipped roof with a clearly marked arrangement of elements in the plan and vertical projections of the slopes.

Often, hip and hip systems are used together in the construction of one building or effectively complement gable, lean-to, sloping and other roofs.

Structures with four slopes can rest directly on the upper crown of a wooden house or on the Mauerlat, which serves as the top frame of brick or concrete walls. If upper and lower supports can be found for each rafter, the roof frame is constructed using layered technology.

Installation of layered rafter legs is simpler and more accessible for an inexperienced home roofer, who needs to take into account that:

When rigidly fastening the upper and lower heels of the rafters with metal corners or using a supporting wooden plate, reinforced fastening of the Mauerlat will be required, because the thrust will be transferred to it.
If the upper heel is rigidly fixed and the bottom of the rafter is hinged, there is no need to strengthen the fastening of the Mauerlate, because if the load on the roof is exceeded, a hinged fastening, for example on sliders, will allow the rafter to move slightly without creating pressure on the mauerlat.
When the top of the rafters is hinged and the bottom is rigidly fixed, expansion and pressure on the Mauerlat are also eliminated.

Issues of fastening the Mauerlat and the closely related method of installing rafter legs according to the rules are resolved at the stage of designing a house. If the building does not have an internal load-bearing wall or it is not possible to build reliable supports for the central part of the roof; nothing will work except for a hanging rafter system assembly diagram. True, in most cases the layered construction method is used, for the implementation of which it is necessary to provide in advance a load-bearing support inside the structure.

In the construction of rafter systems for hipped and hipped roofs, specific structural elements are used, these are:

Diagonal rafter legs forming the spinal connections of the slopes. In hip structures, diagonals, also known as slanted rafters, connect the ridge girder consoles to the corners of the roof. In tent systems, sloping legs connect the top to the corners.
Spreaders, or rafter half-legs, installed perpendicular to the eaves. They rest on diagonal rafters and are located parallel to each other, therefore they differ in different lengths. Narozhniki form the planes of tent and hip slopes.

Diagonal rafters and flanges are also used for the construction of valleys, only then concave corners of the roof are arranged, and not convex ones like hip ones.

The whole difficulty of constructing frames for roofs with four slopes lies in the installation of diagonal rafters, which determine the result of the formation of the structure. In addition, the slopes must withstand a load one and a half times greater than ordinary rafters of pitched roofs. Because they also work as a hobbyhorse, i.e. support for the upper heel of the runners.

If we briefly describe the procedure for constructing a layered frame for a hipped roof, then it can be done in several stages:

Installation of a mauerlat on brick or concrete walls. The process of installing a mauerlat on walls made of logs or timber can be eliminated, because it can be successfully replaced by the upper crown.
Installation of the central support for the hip structure or the supporting frame of the main part of the hip roof.
Installation of conventional layered rafters: a pair for a hip roof and a row determined by the design solution for a hip structure.
Installation of diagonal rafter legs connecting the corners of the systems with the top of the support or the extreme points of the ridge.
Manufacturing to size and fastening of spigots.

In the case of using a hanging frame scheme, the start of the construction of the tent frame will be the installation of a triangular truss in the center. The installation of a four-slope hip rafter system will begin with the installation of a number of roof trusses.

Construction of a hip rafter system

Let's look at one of the common examples of a hip roof with layered rafter legs. They will have to rely on floor beams laid on top of the mauerlat. Rigid fastening with a notch will be used only to fix the top of the rafter legs on the ridge girder, so there is no need to strengthen the Mauerlat fasteners. The dimensions of the box of the house shown in the example are 8.4 × 10.8 m. The actual dimensions of the roof in plan will increase on each side by the amount of the eaves overhang, by 40-50cm.

Installation of the base according to the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is a purely individual element; the method of its installation depends on the material of the walls and architectural features the buildings. The method of laying the Mauerlat is planned according to the rules during the design period, because for reliable fixation of the Mauerlat it is recommended:

Lightweight foam concrete, gas silicate and similar walls should be equipped with a reinforced reinforced concrete belt, poured around the perimeter, with anchors installed during the pouring period to secure the Mauerlat.
Edge the brick walls with a side of one or two bricks along the outer edge so that a ledge is formed along the inner edge for laying a wooden frame. During laying, wooden plugs are placed between the bricks to secure the Mauerlat with staples to the wall.

The mauerlat is made from timber measuring 150×150 or 100×150mm. If you intend to use the under-roof space, it is advisable to take thicker beams. The timber is connected into a single frame with oblique cuts. Then the connection areas are reinforced with self-tapping screws, ordinary nails or wood grouse, and the corners are reinforced with staples.

Floor beams are laid on top of the horizontally leveled mauerlat, constructed in the optimal way for a particular building. A beam with a cross section of 100×200mm is used. The first step is to lay a beam running exactly along the central axis of the building. In the example, the length of the timber is not enough to construct solid beams, so they are assembled from two beams. The connection point should be located above reliable support. In the example, the support is an internal load-bearing wall.

The pitch between the floor beams is 60 cm. If the box being equipped does not have ideal parameters, as is the case in most situations, the distance between the beams can be changed slightly. Such an adjustment allows you to slightly “smooth out” the flaws in construction. Between the outer beams on both sides and the walls of the house there should be a gap of 90 cm wide, necessary for installing the outriggers.

Because the floor beams can independently form only two eaves overhangs; short half-beams of the floor - extensions - are attached to their ends. They are first installed only in the area of the main part of the hip roof, exactly where the rafter legs are to be installed. The extension is nailed to the mauerlat, fastened to the beam with screws, large-caliber nails, dowels, and the fasteners are reinforced with corners.

Construction of the ridge part

The central part of the hip roof is an ordinary gable structure. The rafter system for it is arranged according to the rules dictated by. In the example there are some deviations from the classical interpretation of the pitched principle: the bed on which supports for the ridge run are traditionally installed is not used. The work of the beam will have to be done by the central floor beam.

In order to build the ridge part of the hip roof rafter system you need to:

Build a support frame for the rafter legs, the top of which will rest on the ridge girder. The purlin will rest on three supports, the central one of which is installed directly on the central floor beam. To install the two outer supports, first two cross beams are laid, covering at least five floor beams. Stability is increased with the help of two struts. For the manufacture of horizontal and vertical parts of the supporting frame, a block with a cross-section of 100x150mm was used, the struts were made of boards 50x150mm.
Make rafter legs, for which you first need to make a template. A board of suitable size is applied to the installation site, and lines for future cuts are drawn on it. This will be the template for the continuous production of rafters.
Install the rafter legs, resting them with the notch on the ridge girder, and with the lower heel on the stem located opposite.

If the floor beams were laid across the frame, then the rafters of the main part of the roof would rest on the floor beams, which is much more reliable. However, in the example they rest on the stem, so it is necessary to arrange additional mini-supports for them. These supports should be positioned so that the load from them and the rafters located above is transferred to the walls.

Then three rows of outriggers are installed on each of the four sides. For the convenience of further actions, the roof contour is formed with a cornice board. It must be nailed to the floor beams and extensions strictly horizontally.

Installation of corner extensions

In the space limited by the eaves board, there were corner areas left unfilled with parts of the rafter system. Here you will need corner offsets, for installation of which is carried out as follows:

To indicate the direction of installation, pull the string. We stretch from the point of conditional intersection of the outer support of the frame with the floor beam to the corner.
On top of the lace we place the block in its place. Holding the block, we draw cut lines from below where the block intersects the floor beam and the corner connection of the eaves boards.
We attach the finished stem with sawn off excess to the mauerlat and to the floor beam with corners.

The remaining three corner extensions are manufactured and installed in the same way.

Installation of diagonal rafters

Diagonal, or also slanted, rafter legs are made from two boards sewn together with a cross-section equal to the size of ordinary rafters. In the example, one of the boards will be located slightly higher than the second due to the difference in the angles of inclination of the hips and trapezoidal slopes.

Sequence of work for the manufacture and installation of slopes:

From the highest point of the skate, we stretch the lace to the corners and to the central point of the slope. These are auxiliary lines along which we will mark upcoming cuts.
Using a carpenter's goniometer, we measure the angle between the lace and the upper side of the corner stem. This is how the angle of the bottom cut is determined. Let's assume it is equal to α. The angle of the upper cut is calculated using the formula β = 90º – α.
At an angle β we cut off one edge of a random piece of board. We apply it to the place of the upper fastening, aligning the edge of this workpiece with the lace. We outline the excesses that interfere with a tight installation. You need to cut again along the marked lines.
At an angle α we saw off the lower heel on another piece of board.
We make the first half of the diagonal rafter using templates for the upper and lower support. If a solid board is not long enough, you can join two pieces together. They can be spliced using a meter-long piece of inch mounted on self-tapping screws; it should be placed with outside constructed oblique leg. We install the finished first part.
We make the second part of the sloped rafter in the same way, but keep in mind that it should be slightly lower than its first half. The area where the boards are joined into one element should not coincide with the area where the boards are joined in the first half of the slope.
We sew two boards with nails at intervals of 40-50 cm.
Along the cord stretched to the center of the slope, we draw a line along which it will be necessary to adjust the cut to connect it with the adjacent rafter.

Following the described algorithm, you need to install three more diagonal legs. Supports should be installed under each of them at the point where the corner extensions are connected to the beams. If the span is more than 7.5 m, another support is installed diagonally closer to the ridge.

Manufacturing and installation of hip rafters

The lace between the top of the skate and the center of the slope is already stretched. It served as an axis for outlining the cuts, and now you need to measure the angle γ using it and calculate the angle δ = 90º – γ. Without deviating from the proven path, we prepare templates for the upper and lower supports. We apply the top trim to the place intended for it and mark the cut lines on it for a tight fit between the diagonal rafters. Using the blanks, we make the central leg of the hip and fix it where it should be.

We install short extensions in the space between the corner extensions and the cornice board to add rigidity to the structure and to ensure strong fixation of the outermost, shortest extensions. Next, you should start making templates for the makers themselves:

We cut the piece of board at an angle δ and attach it to the place of attachment to the diagonal rafter.
We outline the excess that needs to be cut down again. The resulting template is used in the manufacture of all flaps, for example the right side of the hip. For the left part, the upper template will be filed from the opposite side.
As a template for the lower heel of the splices, we use a piece of board sawn off at an angle γ. If all previous steps were performed correctly, then this template is used to make the lower attachment points for all other springs.

In accordance with the actual length and “indications” of the templates, the splices are made, which are necessary for forming the planes of the hips and the parts of the main slopes that are not filled with ordinary rafter legs. They are installed so that the upper fastening points of the spigots to the diagonal rafters are spaced apart, i.e. the upper connecting nodes of adjacent slopes should not converge in one place. The splices are attached to the slanted rafter leg with corners, to the floor beams and outriggers in the way that is more reasonable and convenient: with corners or metal toothed plates.

The technology for installing a hip roof is based on the already familiar hip principles. True, there is no ridge part of the rafter system in their design. The construction begins with the installation of a central support, to which the rafters are attached, and then the frames. If hanging technology is used in the construction of an envelope roof, then the finished truss is installed first.

We invite you to take advantage of our free online calculator for calculations of building materials when installing a hip roof - and follow the instructions.

Useful video instructions

The video will briefly introduce the sequence and rules for installing the rafter system of a hipped roof of the hip and hip categories:

Having become familiar with the specifics of the device and having mastered the intricacies of installing roofs with four slopes, you can safely begin to implement plans for its construction.