From ancient times to the present day, one of the integral parts of human development has been the fishing craft. The first intelligent creatures caught fish with their hands, relying only on their dexterity, and with the development of intelligence and human abilities, certain devices and tools appeared (from a sharpened stick, which was used to prick fish in shallow water, to modern high-quality rods and reels), which made it possible to catch more fish and faster.
One of the most significant inventions of mankind is the creation of swimming facilities, which have progressed from an ordinary raft of tree trunks fastened together to comfortable yachts and cruise ships.
The simplest boat, invented back in initial stage development of shipping, is still in demand, because millions of men and women, experiencing primitive excitement, spend hours and even days fishing, which is an excellent form of active and useful recreation.
Also, a boat is an excellent means of cultural pastime - isn’t it great to take a rowing boat ride on the lake near your cottage before going to bed, accompanied by the singing of birds and the splashing of fish coming out for their evening meal? This type of relaxation will be an excellent calmer for the nerves and a way to immerse yourself and your thoughts.
Unfortunately, good boats They often have a very high price, which not everyone can afford. And if the boat is not used very often, then there is no point in such large expenses.
Fortunately, there are many types of this individual watercraft, which (with a certain perseverance and responsibility in the approach) are quite simple to assemble with your own hands from not the most scarce materials. This article will be devoted specifically to assembling your own boat with your own hands.
Boat types
Boats come in different types depending on their design, immersion depth, hull shape, propulsion force and material of manufacture.
Main types of boats by type of material:
- rubber (inflatable);
- metal;
- wooden;
Based on the type of motive force, there are three main types of boats:
- rowing (oaring);
- motor;
- sailing
Boats are also divided into types according to the type of structure:
- dugout boats - hollowed out (or burnt out) from a tree trunk;
- composite boats - assembled from two or three or more parts;
- frame - a rigid structure covered with sheathing (tarpaulin, wood, bark, plywood).
And finally, boats differ in the type of landing on the water:
- flat-bottomed;
- round bottom;
- keel
What kind of boat will we build?
We will focus on the construction of a plywood frame flat-bottomed boat, due to the fact that the materials necessary for the construction of such a vessel are not in short supply and are easily available. In addition, such a boat will cost us quite cheap, which will be an undeniable advantage.
A flat-bottomed boat is very convenient to use; its flat bottom allows you to navigate even in shallow water - you can start your voyage from the very shore and make it even along small forest rivers. The flat bottom provides the boat with reliable stability on the water, and the material used provides good buoyancy.
Construction of a frame plywood flat-bottomed boat:
A flat-bottomed boat has a very simple design, which attracts people who want to assemble a boat with their own hands.
Its design includes:
- frame assembled from frames (transverse ribs of the boat) and a keel beam ( longitudinal beam, running in the center and forming a keel - a kind of spine of the ship) - the frame of the ship;
- sheathing (in our case, plywood).
In shipbuilding, each part has its own specific name, which is not recommended to be confused. Let's get acquainted with a few of them - so as not to fall flat on your face when discussing your finished boat with a professional boatbuilder, to whom you may decide to brag about your success.
Construction details and their dimensions - what you will need
- on the sides - 5 millimeters;
- on the bottom - 6 millimeters.
- hammer;
- hacksaw;
- jigsaw;
- chisel;
- plane;
- sandpaper;
- meter;
- ruler;
- construction pencil;
- plumb line;
- level;
- epoxy glue.
Preparation of the workplace
Starting a workflow
So, on the slipway or on your floor, in the grooves on the fixed crossbars, a keel beam is installed, prepared according to the drawing you previously developed for the boat that we are going to build. I would like to note that the drawing must be made carefully and thoughtfully, but despite this, it implementation will not be difficult - just estimate the dimensions of the desired boat and compare it with the dimensions indicated above, and also think over your unique shape, guided by the knowledge gained from the previous paragraphs.
Rough installation of frames
Installation of stringers
After the epoxy glue has dried, carry out similar operations first with the cheekbones and then with the bottom stringers.
Preparing the frame for sheathing
The boat frame is almost ready. Now it needs to be prepared for covering. Preparation consists of removing all protrusions and roughness using a plane and sandpaper, to make it streamlined. Stringers should not protrude beyond the edge of the frames, stem and transom. It is necessary to control the quality of preparation for plating using thin slats, bending them around the sides future boat and checking how tightly it fits to all parts of the structure.
Carrying out the next stage of boat construction will determine the entire success of your enterprise. Sheathing is one of the most critical stages in the construction of your small boat. Sheathing of a flat-bottomed boat should be carried out in the following sequence: first the bottom, then the sides. Sheathing is carried out with sheets of plywood as much as possible big size, pre-treated from the inside with drying oil in several layers. Avoid joints as much as possible. If this is not possible, then glue the joints on the reverse side with strips of the same plywood of considerable width.
Additionally, the inside of the skin can be coated with construction varnish after installation on the frame. After complete drying and careful inspection, you need to carefully sand the surfaces.
Boat painting
That's it, your boat is ready. Behind you is hard work, and right in front of you is your brainchild, created with my own hands. Now all that remains is to collect fishing rods, dig up worms, lower the boat (quite light, since it is covered with plywood) into the water and hit the road or at least for a short walk. But it is important to leave one piece of advice in this article - never forget about own safety. There is nothing more expensive human life, and no successfully caught fish will pay for it. Fill in free space in the bow of the boat and between the frames with foam or plastic containers. If you have one, then put on a life preserver
We will also need plywood for sheathing thickness:
- on the sides - 5 millimeters;
- on the bottom - 6 millimeters.
Among other things, you will also need tools. Their list:
- hammer;
- hacksaw;
- jigsaw;
- chisel;
- plane;
- sandpaper;
- meter;
- ruler;
- construction pencil;
- plumb line;
- level;
- epoxy glue.
After preparation necessary details construction, you can begin assembling the frame.
Preparation of the workplace
First you need a slipway - it’s level wooden shield measuring 3.5 meters by 1 meter, necessary for installing the keel beam and subsequent assembly of the frame. The floor of your workshop is also suitable as a slipway, on which you need to firmly secure the keel using bars with grooves.
The tool should always be at hand. Workplace should be comfortable and clean.
Frame assembly, instructions and assembly procedure
Starting a workflow
So, on the slipway or on your floor, in the grooves on the fixed crossbars, a keel beam is installed, prepared according to the drawing you previously developed for the boat that we are going to build.
I would like to note that the drawing should be made carefully and thoughtfully, but despite this, its implementation will not be difficult - just estimate the dimensions of the desired boat and compare it with the dimensions indicated above, and also think over your unique shape, guided by the knowledge gained from previous points.
Rough installation of frames
The frames are installed with temporary fastenings convenient for you on a pre-marked keel beam, taking into account the fact that the zero frame, consisting only of a transom (with a groove prepared for the keel beam) and its fastening in the form of a wooden corner, is attached in relation to the vertical plane at 10 degrees.
Installation of frames in prepared grooves
The frames (with grooves prepared on their outer side for the keel and fender beams, as well as for the stringers), set plumb and level, are installed on the keel beam using nails/screws and epoxy glue.
Installation of stringers
The stringers are installed in the same way as the keel beam - in pre-prepared grooves of the frames and fixed with epoxy glue and nails/screws.
The procedure for installing stringers is as follows:
- zygomatic stringers (located at the junction of toptimber and floortimber);
- bottom stringers located symmetrically to the keel beam at a distance of ½ from the keel to the bilge stringers;
- side stringers (located slightly above ½ the height of the toptimbers).
Fixing stringers and stem
This is probably the most difficult procedure when assembling a boat, since in order to fit the stringers to the stem (bow of the boat), they will need to be bent and securely fixed.
This procedure is carried out as follows: after adjusting and installing the stem on the keel beam using the groove method, you need to wait until the epoxy glue has completely dried, and then mark the grooves on the stem, cut them out and fit the side stringers to them, fixing them in the standard way.
After the epoxy glue has dried, carry out similar operations first with the cheekbones and then with the bottom stringers.
Preparing the frame for sheathing
The boat frame is almost ready. Now it needs to be prepared for covering. Preparation consists of removing all protrusions and roughness using a plane and sandpaper to make it streamlined. Stringers should not protrude beyond the edge of the frames, stem and transom.
It is necessary to control the quality of preparation for plating using thin slats, bending them around the sides of the future boat and checking how tightly it fits to all parts of the structure.
Attention! Poor preparation of the boat for sheathing will inevitably lead to leaks as a result of loose fit of the sheathing to the frame. Sheathing: The most important thing is the bottom and sides of the boat.
Carrying out the next stage of boat construction will determine the entire success of your enterprise. Sheathing is one of the most critical stages in the construction of your small boat. The covering of a flat-bottomed boat should be carried out in the following sequence: first the bottom, then the sides.
Sheathing is carried out with sheets of plywood of the largest possible size, pre-treated from the inside with drying oil in several layers. Avoid joints as much as possible. If this is not possible, then glue the joints on the reverse side with strips of the same plywood of considerable width.
In no case should the joints be placed along the frames - it is better between them. Carefully work out each joint epoxy glue or other sealing methods. Fasten with screws. Also carefully treat the fastening points with epoxy resin.
Additionally, the inside of the skin can be coated with construction varnish after installation on the frame. After complete drying and careful inspection, you need to carefully sand the surfaces.
Boat painting
Painting a boat is a simple matter; it all depends on your tastes and creativity. But since your new, fresh boat is covered with plywood, it is best to paint it with a thick layer of epoxy paint, which can be found at any hardware store. Epoxy paint not only will it look good, but it will also make the boat even more airtight.
That's it, your boat is ready. Behind you is hard work, and right in front of you is your brainchild, created with your own hands. Now all that remains is to collect the fishing rods, dig up the worms, lower the boat (quite light, since it is lined with plywood) into the water and hit the road, or at least for a short walk.
But it is important to leave one piece of advice in this article - never forget about your own safety. There is nothing more valuable than human life, and no successfully caught fish will pay for it. Fill the free space in the bow of the boat and between the frames with foam or plastic containers.
If you have one, then put it on. And never go out on the water in strong winds.
Happy sailing!
First of all, hello everyone! This boat has been in my dreams for a long time; a few years ago I made a model of this boat, but somehow I didn’t have time. And then my Ufimka burst (it’s about time, it’s been built since 1985), so much so that a meter-long hole appeared in the side in the shape of the letter “G”. Believe me, if I wanted, I could repair it, but imagine how much material I immediately had: oarlocks, magnificent bottom and side fabric rubber, oars, etc. All that remains is to purchase sheet plastic. I also considered aluminum as an option, but after becoming familiar with the properties of polypropylene (it is also lighter than water), I finally settled on plastic. I’ll make a reservation right away, nothing worked out with the swaddle - about 1000 NIS for one sheet, but I need at least two. I chose 3mm plastic with the main properties: not to crack under bending load and to keep the rivet line from destruction (many samples cracked precisely along the line of the holes for the rivets) at a price of 200 NIS per sheet. My initial conditions were the following: a folding boat, with a maximum folded length of 1.5 m, 2-seater with a carrying capacity of at least 180 kg, absolute buoyancy, i.e. non-sinking even when completely filled with water, stern, keel with the keel transition to a minimum at the stern, stable in rough seas, light when working with oars and with a low dead weight, with the option for a small electric motor and with useful devices, such as a “chest of drawers” for accessories and boxes for bait under the seats, light racks for spinning rods and of course with minimum time for installation and dismantling. I met all these parameters. Boat weight 18 kg. And now its dimensions: in working condition, length 2.5 m, width 0.95 m, side height 0.3 m, total height 0.45 m; in transport condition: length 1.5 m, width 0.3 m, package thickness 0.08 m. The kit also includes 2 seats, a stern insert, frame stiffening tubes and oars. Now let's talk about how we had to achieve some parameters. Buoyancy - strips of material similar to soldiers' mattresses are glued along the sides (they do not sink and are moisture resistant), the same strips are glued to the seats and feed, all the frame tubes are plastic with plugs at the ends, which does not allow water to fill them, in extreme cases, if this will not be enough (although this is unlikely) I marked on the bow and stern of the boat places for attaching 2 floats, similar to those of the rescuers from the famous TV series). As a connecting material, I used rubber strips from the bottom, and the aft flexible part from the side of my Ufimka, set with glue and then riveted. I carried out all the work in my apartment, in the absence of household members - fortunately, when they arrived, the entire system was easily hidden behind the sofa.
I indicated the weight of the boat -18kg. Cost: 400 sh - plastic, 100 sh - glue and rivets, 100 sh - pipe and couplings for the stiffening frame, 50 sh - connecting screws with wing nuts and fasteners for side plastic. Everything else: rubber and oarlocks from an old boat, plywood for the seats and under the oarlocks - scraps, edging along the top of the side - scraps of pipes for drip irrigation. And the rest is hands. I don’t know how much it might cost for sale, maybe the fishermen themselves will appreciate it? As for the pressure on the bottom seam, I distributed the main pressure (in a sitting position) over 3 seams, there is an option for a tube connection and side seams under oblique supports in the same way as the keel part. As for the flooring, it is enough wooden lattice 50x60cm between the seats with two transverse ribs along the outline of the bottom. I also want to put umbrella fabric over the top with Velcro from the bow of the boat to the first seat in case of rain, to keep things dry. At first I wanted to make a 3-meter one, but I had to buy another sheet of plastic with a large remainder after cutting. So I went with the minimum.
PS. The cost of materials is indicated in SHEKELS.
Production time, so slowly, is about a week. It took a lot of time to find suitable plastic. I’m retired, so when my household left, I took everything out from behind the back of the sofa and did it. I already wrote that the rubber, rowlocks and oars I had were from a broken boat, and the rest was a matter of technique. But first I made a 25 cm model from thin plastic. And with this boat it was easier for me also because it is my second homemade boat. The first was a frame made of plastic pipes and thin tarpaulin. When disassembled, it was no longer than a meter. In short, a bag with tubes and a cover. I want to do something like this too. That one was even lighter, and with the current choice of material, there should be shine.
As for the pattern, everything is simple. The width of the canvas is 30cm, the short part is 1 meter long, the bow part is 1.5 meters. Step back 1 meter from the nose edge and bring it in two arcs to the middle. It is clearly visible in the photo. But I still advise you to start with a small model. There, instead of rubber, you can use adhesive tape. The model can provide everything possible options, and it’s much easier to correct mistakes. To be honest, I didn’t give any importance to the name of the plastic. At first I was looking for polypropylene, since it is not brittle and is lighter than water, but it has an exorbitant (for me) price. Then he began to select according to the principle: crushed, touched, broken. The main condition is not to burst at full bend (this means that the body will not burst upon impact), and not to crack along the holes for the rivets. And I maintained buoyancy in a flooded state due to additional side linings from a soldier’s rug. The glue is ordinary rubber, but the main condition for gluing is: cleaning, degreasing and degreasing the surfaces to be bonded, and mandatory soaking for min. 15 minutes after applying the glue, before joining. And I also think it is very important to additionally cover the edges of the rubber strips along the entire length of the boat with thin strips of rubberized fabric, like on factory boats.
About the changes. Already changed: the boat is designed for 2 people, but with one person the center of gravity moves to the “bow” of the boat and it goes down, and the stern rises, the wave overwhelms us, so the seat for the rower was moved closer to the center of gravity, which is easy to determine from the layout -models. Regarding the height of the side, I proceeded from the maximum cutting standard sheet. but, for the future, I think that a side width of 40 cm, instead of 33, will still be preferable, and stability will increase due to an increase in the overall width of the boat.
The boat is double in terms of the number of seats and carrying capacity.
There is no need to hit anyone with oars; when there are two in the boat, the seat is inserted closer to the “bow” of the boat, and when there is only one, then 30 cm to the stern. As for convenience, it is naturally more convenient for one person, but, if desired, the boat can handle the other. Good luck!
Folding boat for Mercury 3.3
Homemade folding boat
InstaBOAT For Sale_Setup the Boat
In specialized stores you can find enough a large number of boats different forms and sizes for tourism and fishing. Despite this, many are interested in a homemade plywood boat.
Advantages of a boat made of plywood sheets:
- Light weight structure. You should know that laminated veneer weighs much less than solid wood.
- Stability of the structure. The boat is assembled from solid pieces of plywood and has clear geometric proportions.
- Low cost, which consists of the cost of plywood sheets, boards, adhesive mixture and primer compounds that are used to process plywood boats.
Anyone with some carpentry skills can make a boat like this in about 1 day.
Tools and materials
Today there is great amount various varnishes, impregnations and adhesive mixtures for plywood. Each element has its own advantages and disadvantages. To make a boat, you do not need to have any special tools or materials. The following items will be needed:
- Plywood sheets. For the production of boats, in most cases, sheets of glued birch veneer 5 mm thick are used. The frames and keel are cut from thick plywood (12-15 mm).
- Wood. Used for mounting internal struts, decorating sides, seats and other elements. Recommended to purchase edged boards made of light wood. The most commonly found wood on sale is spruce and pine. You should know that spruce is whiter than pine and has greater water resistance, therefore it is recommended to use it for cladding. However, do not forget that spruce boards can split during the nailing process.
- Suture material is used for fastening individual elements plating in single design. Seams can be formed using thin and flexible wire, plastic clamps, thick nylon line and other elements.
- Adhesive mixture. Used to ensure the necessary tightness of seams. Today natural compositions Casein-based products are practically not used. In most cases, craftsmen use polymer resins.
- Special varnishes and impregnations that can protect wood from destruction.
- Fiberglass or other material to protect the seams.
- Waterproof paint.
You will need certain geometric parameters boards The width of the elements should be 30 cm and the thickness should be 2.5 cm. For the stern and sides, boards 86.4 cm long are needed.
To make reliable sides, you need to use only high-quality plywood sheets for cladding that do not have cracks, knots or other defects. Price of materials the best varieties above, but only in this case can you be sure of the safety of the boat being manufactured.
You will need the following tools:
- saw for working with wood;
- electric jigsaw with a set of blades of various lengths;
- grinding machine;
- hand tool;
- clamps for fixing plywood sheets during gluing;
- several brushes for impregnation, varnishing and painting.
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Manufacturing process
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Drawing up a drawing
First of all, you need to decide what kind of vessel you need to make. Today there are a large number of different drawings of homemade plywood boats. You can make, for example, a flat-bottomed boat for fishing or a vessel for tourism.
If existing drawings are not suitable, you can design your own circuit. To ensure that a homemade boat does not turn out to be purely decorative, you need to calculate the carrying capacity.
To create your own boat diagram, you should first study existing designs for homemade plywood boats. It is necessary to transfer the outlines of the main elements onto paper. On the plywood sheets you need to draw lines along which the frames and sheathing sheets will be cut. To do this, it is recommended to use a prepared paper template.
If the length of the purchased plywood sheets is not suitable, then they need to be joined. To do this, the end parts of the plywood must be cut at an acute angle so that the length of the resulting slope is 8-10 times the thickness of the sheet itself. Next, you will need to coat the beveled parts with an adhesive mixture and clamp them with clamps. At the same time, you should prepare wooden blocks, from which the boat frame will be made.
On such trestles it is much more convenient to place all the elements during fastening, especially if the construction of homemade plywood boats is carried out without assistants.
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Boat hull
The frame of the boat is made of pine slats.
- By using a wood saw or electric jigsaw you need to cut out the parts according to templates from boards, bars and plywood sheets. The deviation from the design dimensions should not exceed 1 mm, otherwise the sides will not be able to meet during the stitching process.
- The rear side and frames must be glued together in order to obtain the required thickness and strength. The glued elements have a lot of weight, but this will not affect the quality of the structure in any way.
- To increase the strength of the connections, it is recommended to additionally secure the frames and transoms with self-tapping screws. The length of these fasteners must be such that the tip does not pierce through the workpiece. Self-tapping screws must be galvanized or tinned. It is recommended to use screws with a length of 18x3 mm or 25x3 mm. Self-tapping screws 60x4 mm and 60x5 mm are suitable for securing seats, sides and food.
- The transom is installed on the manufactured sawhorses.
- After this, you need to attach the bottom and sides to the transom, bringing them together at the bow.
- If plywood is not too thick, the sheathing elements are secured with suture material. These elements can also be secured using an adhesive mixture. In the latter case, you need to cut off the outer parts of the plywood at an angle.
- All parts must match in size. You should know that to reduce the gap, you need to disassemble the entire product and partially trim the frames.
- If you plan to install outboard motor, then the transom must be glued with fiberglass and reinforced with boards made of hardwood trees.
- After the rough assembly has been completed, gluing should begin.
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Glue works
- First of all, you need to prepare a composition from epoxy resin and Aerosil. The elements must be mixed in a 1:1 ratio, for which it is recommended to use the appropriate drill attachment. The mixture should be the consistency of sour cream.
- The corners between the bottom, sides and transom need to be strengthened using wooden fillets - corners small sizes, which are able to ensure the rigidity of the connection.
- Strips of fiberglass must be glued to all the seams from the inside, thoroughly coating the joints with the prepared mixture. Most adhesive mixtures contain volatile toxins. In this regard, varnishing and painting work must be carried out using respiratory protection.
- After the adhesive mixture has dried, you will need to install the frames in the selected places.
- To fix the frames, you should use the same adhesive mixture. If the boat being manufactured has big sizes, then to strengthen the structure, it is recommended to additionally secure the frames on the bottom and sides with overlapping strips of fiberglass.
- The flooring is laid on the bottom, the oarlocks, seats and other elements are secured.
- If the forward part of the vessel needs to be equipped closed space, you will need to install the cover. This element is fixed to the sides and frames.
Bottom homemade boat made from whole piece plywood, but it must be joined to the sides and stern. Therefore, the joints must be glued. In this case, you can use various waterproof compounds, but if these are not available, then you can use thick rubbed paint on oil based. When the joint shrinks and swells, such a mixture will not allow water to pass through. The joint will also need to be tightened with self-tapping screws, the minimum step being 40 cm. All seams must be caulked with a cloth.
After the structure has dried, it must be removed from the trestles, turned over and the outer base sanded. Next, the seams are treated with the mixture and the bottom is glued with fiberglass.
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