The subfloor is insulated with pine needles. The winter is coming. We insulate the conifers on our site. Insulation with bulk material

THE RANGE OF PRODUCTS IN MODERN GARDENING STORES IS AMAZING: THERE ARE NUMEROUS TYPES OF COVERING AND MULCHING MATERIALS, A VARIETY OF FERTILIZERS, INSECTICIDES, FUNGICIDES... BUT ALL OF US CAN CALL SHOULD YOU BUY YOURSELF WHAT YOU WANT? I THINK NOT EVERYTHING. THIS IS WHY I DECIDED TO TELL ABOUT ORDINARY PINE NEEDLES, WHICH WILL BRING GREAT BENEFITS TO ANY HOLD GROUND AND WILL HELP YOU REFUSE BUYING THESE NECESSARY BUT EXPENSIVE GOODS

PINE NEEDLES AS MULCH

On the neighbor's summer cottage A huge pine tree grows close to our common fence. She reset every year a large number of pine needles, which I didn’t always have time to remove. And so, when one day I got around to this event, I discovered damp soil under a thick layer of pine litter, while the rest of my garden was suffocating from the scorching summer heat.

This observation gave me a brilliant idea - to use pine litter as mulch. It was not difficult to get a large amount of pine needles: our SNT borders on a vast pine forest. In half an hour, I filled the car to the brim with bags of this free material, which was enough for me to mulch all the vegetable beds, flower beds and tree trunks of garden plantings.

ON A NOTE

To protect your hands FROM STINGY NEEDLES, when gardening with pine needles I use not ordinary cotton gloves, but thicker ones - intended for pruning thorny bushes. And in the cellar, where my harvest is stored, also arranged with pine needles, I specially leave durable gloves: I put them on every time I take out another batch of vegetables to eat.

Under a layer of mulch 3 - 5 cm thick, the soil remained wet much longer after watering, so I stopped worrying about my green pets, leaving them unattended until the next weekend. In addition, the mulch suppressed weeds and prevented the formation of crust on the soil surface, saving me from the need to loosen the rows and weed out unwanted vegetation.

I still use pine litter as mulch to this day - and I never cease to rejoice at this economical find, which saved me from the need to buy special mulching materials in the store.

Prickly beds and tree trunk circles

In the spring, after emergence or planting of seedlings, mulching vegetable beds with pine needles. A thick layer of mulch under trees, shrubs and garden strawberries I have to renew only occasionally: the needles on the soil surface rot very slowly. For the same reason, in the fall, after harvesting vegetables, I rake the needles from the surface of the beds and send them to the compost heap for “ripening.”

I dig up the beds with the addition mineral fertilizers and organic matter, and also add wood ash for digging at the rate of 1 half-liter jar per 1 m2, since pine litter, when used regularly, tends to acidify the soil. If there is no ash on hand, I use fluffed lime, chalk or dolomite flour according to the instructions. I do things differently with garden crops: I move the layer of needles to the side, add fertilizers and liquefied liquids to the tree trunk circle, burying them in the soil with a hoe, and then return the mulch to its place.

After harvesting, I tried adding pine mulch to the soil, but I didn’t like it: in the spring it is very difficult to work with the “prickly” soil. Therefore, now I use pine litter, which I collect in large quantities in the fall, to prepare humus.

Preparing pine humus

The needles rot for a very long time, from 3 to 5 years, so to speed up the process I use little tricks. To do this, I put needles in the compost bin, fresh mullein(for every 1 m 3 of needles I take about 100 kg of manure), tops of vegetables, weeds, kitchen waste, layering them with small portions of garden soil, and then I generously spill the contents with any microbiological fertilizer according to the instructions and cover the pile with a thick film. I use similar solutions 2-3 more times in the next season, and also periodically ventilate and moisten the ripening humus from a hose. With this approach, the coniferous litter rots 2 times faster, and already after 1.5 years, by the next spring, I receive the most valuable fertilizer.

If mullein is not available, then I fill the compost bin with needles and plant residues mixed with garden soil and generously moisten each layer with a strong urea solution (200 g per 10 liters of water). In the future, I also use solutions of microbiological preparations - and in the same time frame I obtain a loose, homogeneous mass, which, thanks to the rich chemical composition of pine needles, is saturated with a mass of useful macro- and microelements.

And the presence of a large amount of essential oils and phytoncides in pine needles completely frees such humus from pathogenic microflora and insect pests, which often choose “ordinary” humus for wintering or a place of permanent residence.

Coniferous humus has a slightly acidic reaction, so before applying it to the plants, I add a glass of wood ash to each bucket of such fertilizer. But if this seems tedious to someone, you can add layers of ingredients even at the stage of adding humus wood ash or a purchased deoxidizer according to the instructions.

Let the garden wake up early!

Slowly decomposing pine needles are an excellent material for building warm beds. I prepare such beds in the fall so that next season I can harvest an ultra-early harvest of vegetables from them.

To do this, in the planned area I dig a trench two spade bayonets deep. I cover its bottom with a thick layer of pine needles sprinkled with wood ash, lay a layer of manure on top, and then fill the hole to the top with soft-stemmed plants - weeds without seeds and roots and vegetable tops, layering them with small portions of soil. Upper layer- fertile soil 15 - 20 cm thick. I use so much “filling” that at the end of the work such a bed rises 25 - 30 cm above the ground surface. I spill the contents generously with a solution of microbiological fertilizer and cover it with a thick black film.

By spring, the bed settles, and with the arrival of the first thaw, the processes of decomposition of organic matter are actively launched in it, due to which heat is released, and the soil in the bed warms up at the most early dates. This allows you to plant seedlings a month earlier than usual. To do this, I make cross-shaped cuts in the film and plant plants in them, after which I install arcs over the bed and cover them with spunbond to protect the plantings from spring frosts. The contents of such a bed last a long time and allow it to be used for several years.

Alternative to spruce branches

On this beneficial features I don’t run out of pine litter - I successfully use it for insulating plants for the winter. I remove the lashes of covering grapes, actinidia, clematis and other heat-loving vines from the trellis, tie them up and lay them on the ground. I bend the branches of “tender” shrubs (rhododendron, azaleas, roses, heat-loving varieties of berries, etc.) to the ground and secure them with metal pins. After this, I take out bags of pine needles that have been pre-dried in the sun from the bins and fill the ground part of the plants to the top with it. Then I cover the coniferous rollers with a thick film and secure its ends with stones or sprinkle it with a layer of earth.

In the same way, I insulate bulbous flowers and beds with vegetables planted before winter - I cover them with dry needles and cover them with film. I use the film to protect plants from damping off during winter thaws, the risk of which increases significantly under such a dense layer of wet mulch. And I insulate the root system of young seedlings of trees and shrubs in a different way: for this I lay them out in tree trunk circles dense garbage bags filled with dry pine needles.

Dry shelter based on pine needles perfectly protects plants from winter frosts. And if when using other materials, such as straw or sawdust, such shelters became a cozy wintering place for rodents, now such a problem does not arise: prickly needles do not allow voles to come close to such “houses.”

Needles as an insecticide

In early spring, various pests wake up in the garden fruit trees And berry bushes which immediately begin oviposition. In order to protect against them, I spend spraying plants with pine infusion. To prepare it, first I finely chop 1 - 1.5 kg of young pine twigs with a hatchet, place them in a bucket and fill the container to the top with hot water. I keep the contents in a warm place under a lid for 3 - 4 days, stirring them periodically.

Then I filter the infusion and dilute it by half. clean water, add a couple of spoons liquid soap and spray the trees and shrubs with the solution. I repeat spraying several times: during the period of swelling of the buds on the plants, in the pink bud phase, and also immediately after flowering. This economical product replaces expensive insecticides and allows you to rid your garden of codling moths, flower beetles, weevils, honey beetles and leaf rollers.

Also noticed that pine infusion is an excellent remedy for various types of aphids, which likes to settle not only on gardens, but also on garden crops, for example on cucumbers and tomatoes. To protect against aphids, I spray garden crops with the infusion described above, diluted 1:1 with water, and to treat vegetables I prepare a weaker solution - 1 part infusion and 2 parts water.

In one of the seasons, with the help of two sprayings carried out at an interval of 2 days, I completely rid my cabbage of white cabbage caterpillars - and took this remedy into service. However, in the new season, I decided that it was better to completely prevent these voracious pests from appearing on the plants, and immediately after planting the seedlings in the ground, I began to spray the cabbage bed every 10-12 days with a pine decoction, which scared away the white butterflies and did not give them the opportunity to lay eggs on the plants . Now I carry out such procedures every season, and my cabbage is always clean.

To prepare the decoction, place 1.5 - 2 kg of chopped pine twigs in a large enamel pan, add 6 liters of water and put on fire. I boil the contents under the lid over low heat for 15 - 20 minutes, and after cooling, strain. I prepare a working solution for spraying from 2 liters of broth and 8 liters of clean water and add a couple of tablespoons of liquid soap so that the fragrant drug settles on the leaves.

Coniferous solution – effective remedy against cruciferous flea beetle . Therefore, to protect against this pest for preventive purposes, I regularly spray not only cabbage, but also radishes, radishes, daikon and other crops of the cabbage family.

But to protect against Colorado potato beetle, who, as it turns out, also cannot tolerate the pine smell, I prepare a more concentrated solution - 4 liters of decoction per 6 liters of water.

By the way, to protect potatoes from wireworms, you do not need to prepare infusions or decoctions, but you can use pine litter from the forest.

To do this in the spring, when planting tubers, you need to add a handful of pine needles to each hole, and the enemy will be defeated: the smell of rotting pine needles disorients the pest.

On my garden plot Fortunately, there are no slugs, but my friend, having suffered with these voracious pests, found salvation precisely in pine litter. Now she places rolls of pine needles around the perimeter of each bed, and the slugs are unable to reach the leaves and fruits of the vegetables. She does exactly the same thing in the case of trees and shrubs, the young leaves of which slugs like to feast on: she makes rounded edges from needles in their trunk circles.

Fungicidal properties of litter

Having started using an infusion of pine branches on cucumbers and tomatoes to protect against aphids, I noticed that these plants were much less damaged by fungal diseases. Now I use pine infusion diluted with water in a ratio of 1:2 on these and others cultures more methodically, at intervals of 10 - 14 days. What is most pleasing is that after such preventive spraying, tomatoes are affected by late blight only in extremely unfavorable weather - during the period of cold, prolonged rains, when it is impossible to spray any folk remedies, nor fungicides.

And thanks to this budgetary means, cucumbers and zucchini have become less susceptible to their main disease - powdery mildew.

Harvest with pine scent

The bactericidal and antiseptic properties of pine needles help me not only get bountiful harvest, but also store it for a longer period in the cellar. For this purpose, I use well-dried pine needles, which I sprinkle over the root vegetables when they are stored. At the bottom of the bin, in which I am going to put carrots, beets, radishes, daikon or other vegetables, I first pour needles in a layer of 2-3 cm, then I lay out the root vegetables in one layer, crush them with pine needles, put a new layer of vegetables - and so on until it’s full the whole bin. With this approach, root crops remain juicy and elastic much longer and are not damaged by rot.

WHEN BRANCHES ARE USEFUL

But what about pine spruce branches? On the eve of winter, I, of course, use it to protect the trunks of young trees from rodents. To do this, I tie pine branches to the trunk of each tree with their needles down, and they do not allow rodents to get to the tasty bark.

Thanks to their pronounced aroma, needles can be used to combat a wide variety of garden and vegetable pests. But in this case, I do not use dried pine litter, which has lost the bulk of its essential oils, but young pine branches, which I cut in the neighboring forest in early spring. At this time, the needles are maximally saturated with phytoncides and useful substances, therefore, infusions and decoctions from it not only cope well with pests, but also act as additional plant nutrition.

It would seem that there is nothing to write about insulation... 🙂 But we have come up with so many artificial insulations based on the “bad” insulator - Air, that you cannot pass by. Is it just us? And how many natural insulation materials Mother Nature gave us! Let's remember and look at everything at once, we don't need much... *PARDON*

Of course I'll start with natural ones. It’s cheap and therefore fashionable during a crisis :) If I missed someone, add in the comments and I’ll correct it...

Tyrsa, turf, peat briquettes, pine needles, straw, husks, reeds, cork (cork oak bark), flax and hemp mats, damask (dried sea grass), sheep's wool, ash, slag (as waste from home heating). Not a little. Nature is Generous. And on the basis of these insulation materials, our Ancestors created systems of Eco Houses and even villages in which entire generations lived.

But modern Man is more civilized. His requirements for comfort have increased, and this required the creation of more effective and more durable insulation materials. Following the numerical growth of Humanity, the area of ​​houses and the requirements for their Comfort have also grown. Today, thanks to modern insulation, we consume less energy per capita than our ancestors (I didn’t come up with this, I read the statistics 😉). What artificial insulation materials (requiring high-tech equipment and additional energy) are on the market today?

Cellulose, basalt wool, glass wool, slag wool, foam glass, vermiculite, perlite, expanded clay, polystyrene (PSB and EPS), polyethylene foam, polypropylene foam, vacuum panels, aerated fiber concrete, aerated concrete, slag (industrial waste). I do not list building materials based on these insulation materials and with better thermal insulation properties ( ceramic blocks, foam concrete, cinder block, laminated wood beams, etc.), because they are not just insulation.

As we can see, there is plenty to choose from. Why do we need such a choice? And the answer is simple... Each material has a set of properties. The art of the Builder lies in this: knowing the properties of materials, choose the insulation that has its best sides will be used to the maximum in a specific situation!

ATTENTION!

I PUBLISH MY PERSONAL OPINION

The Internet is full of information and tables with technical characteristics building materials and insulation materials in particular. They are interesting to me as a Professional Builder. But I'm not going to reprint or copy them. After all, that’s not why you came to my Construction Blog, so as not to get answers again.

I compile Comparative Tables for Ukraine using different principles. I assign points based on own experience and analysis of material properties. I take into account not only technical specifications, but also durability, manufacturability, etc. The main condition... YOU CAN ' T GIVE THE SAME POINTS.

Next point. Don't forget that Home is a System! Insulation is only a small part of this system. That's why not only him, but also on him influence other elements of the system! Final choice material, be sure to do it with your Architect. After all, He is responsible for your House.

And on the other hand. Yes, I do not take into account the effect that insulation has on other materials. In this case, I am interested in the Insulation itself. His personal selfish Comfort! 🙂 In what place in the House system can he show his positive traits maximum. But your Design Engineer and Architect is responsible for ensuring that he feels good there. Don't forget this. Any material can be destroyed by improper use.

What? Are you scared? 🙂 Of course it’s scary. Making a choice is always scary. So let's watch the video and make a conscious choice...

The first table is Natural Insulation. As you can see, their variety allows you to insulate the entire house. From the foundation to the roof. And at the same time, their durability has long been proven. For example, there are houses made of adobe that are 150 years old and the straw in them is in excellent condition. And a turf roof lasts more than 50 years. Many modern materials cannot boast of this, as well as the environmental friendliness of the material itself, as well as their production and, of course, disposal.

But we should not forget about other characteristics of materials. This is not just the original Price of the Material itself, A Construction Price with these materials. Their Manufacturability (natural) - which is often inferior to modern ones Artificial materials, which fit easier and faster...

To view this part of the topic, please, or go and go to the Blog under your Login.

Of course, it’s impossible to cover everything in signs and a small video! But this is not the last topic in the Blog 😉 Gradually, on the pages of my Construction Blog, I will reveal all the features of using materials. I have a lot of work ahead of me, and you need to be patient. 🙂

Sincerely, Alexander Terekhov.

Lovers of coniferous plantations living in middle lane Russia, they dream of evergreen decoration of their home plot. Despite the frost resistance of conifers, young seedlings need protection winter period. How we cover conifers for the winter and other methods of protection from ice and snow will be discussed in this article.

Why cover winter-hardy crops?

Almost all coniferous plantings, from trees to low-growing shrubs, are distinguished by their unpretentiousness and resistance to frost. Both thuja and spruce attract the attention of gardeners not only with their beautiful appearance, but also with their resistance to diseases and pests, and also exude a wonderful pine aroma. In addition, they are excellent antiseptics.

Out of love for the decorative appearance of the plant, it is planted along alleys, near administrative buildings, as well as in parks and gardens. But, despite such positive characteristics, coniferous plants need shelter for the winter. Namely, young seedlings that are not yet 3-4 years old are considered weak and need protection. Here are two aspects that adversely affect evergreen crops:

1. strong frosty wind;
2. spring Sun rays, reflected from the snow.

Why wind and sunlight? The fact is that the winter wind causes severe dryness of the branches, and from a lack of moisture they freeze, break off and die. If you have observed a beautiful spruce with a withered shoot and yellowed needles, then know that this was due to the cold and strong wind. While tree needles can withstand severe frost, they do not like the wind.

Everyone knows that the thaw at the end of February and March is characterized by the bright sun, the rays of which are reflected on the white snow. At this time, sap flow has not yet begun, and the bushes are still weak and vulnerable. Then pine needles and green paws of thuja under bright light may get sunburn. Therefore, there is a need to cover the crop for the winter, not to mention the branches breaking under the weight of the adhering snow.

Protection for medium-height shrubs

To cover coniferous bushes that have not yet reached 3 years of age for the winter, we first bend the branches to the trunk of the tree. To do this, take a string, preferably green or the color of the trunk, and, without pressing too much, lightly wrap it with a cord so that the legs of the trunks do not stick out. After this, we take non-woven material or spunbond and determine the size of the future bag. Then we secure the seam with a stapler.

Today, manufacturers offer ready-made agrotex bags of various sizes. Spruce and pine need autumn shelter only in the first year of life.

How to cover shrubs and young trees medium height so as not to damage the crown and preserve the integrity of the crop as much as possible? For this purpose, a wooden frame is constructed from bars of medium thickness.

Advice! “You can make a frame from elastic plastic mesh, which is very convenient due to its flexibility.”

It is better not to install an iron or wire frame, since the metal conducts cold and can cause frostbite to the branches.

After preparing the walls of the frame, we wrap it with covering material. It is better not to use polyethylene for these purposes, as it collects moisture. Moisture accumulated under the film in winter cold freezes and does not contribute to thermal insulation or leads to rotting and mold. In addition, polyethylene may not withstand low temperatures and burst, allowing snow and cold wind to penetrate. To protect coniferous plantations for the winter, it is better to use:

• burlap;
• spunbond;
• kraft paper;
• agrofibre;
• lutrasin;
• agrospan.

Any of the listed materials, except kraft paper, can be stapled to a wooden frame. You can wrap the insulation around the mesh, connecting the ends into a single seam.

Any agrofibre should be of medium thickness for air to enter (sometimes a small gap is left or the top is not secured), but not torn from strong gusts of wind. After winter, shelters need to be removed at the beginning of April or at the end of March, when it gets warmer and sap flow begins. Moderate melting of snow and air temperature close to 0 °C will tell you when to open the insulation.

If your pets have reached 4 years of age, and you did not shelter them, but only tied them with twine, then we perform the following shenanigans. At the end of February south side garden we install an awning from any available covering material. Our goal is to create a shade curtain so that the conifers do not get sunburned from the blinding sun.

Protection for low growing bushes

If your juniper or cedar is too young, or you are a fan of low-growing crops, then the amount of insulation work is significantly reduced. It is enough to stock up on spruce branches in the forest and cover them with seedlings in the form of cone-shaped houses. Thrifty owners prefer to install on top of spruce branches plastic containers for reliable fixation and temperature maintenance.

Industrial business satisfies any demand and therefore the Moscow region is provided with covering material for planting in full. It is sold in the form of cone-shaped bags with a tightening rope at the bottom. To prevent the ends of the conifer paws from turning yellow, it is enough to use special bags.

Agronomist advice! “For young conifers with a weak root system, it is necessary to sprinkle the area at the roots with sawdust or mulch before covering for the winter.”

Additional care

Despite the winter hardiness and unpretentiousness of the crop, mineral fertilizing will not harm. Especially for freshly planted crops in the fall, so that they can take root before spring. The plant must become stronger and be resistant to disease. What to feed your pets ahead of the cold weather?

Let us describe several steps leading to successful acclimatization and overwintering:

1. We water in the fall 50–60 cm deep, not only near the root, but also within the radius of the root system. In case of heavy autumn rains, the procedure is canceled;
2. trunk mulching with organic matter (needles, pine bark, sawdust, spruce branches, hay, etc.) is poured in 1–2 layers, no thicker, so that rodents do not build a nest;
3. feeding with vermicompost and compost will support the vitality of conifers, as well as adding magnesium with dolomite flour;
4. nitrogen in large quantities and manure can harm plantings;
5. In spring, at temperatures above +10 °C, it is recommended to treat with biostimulants: Epin, HB 101, Zircon. Sometimes it is enough to spray the crown with warm water and hide it from the sun.

It is much more advisable to take care of conifers than to restore them as a result of neglect.

Although In recent years, a wide variety of modern insulation materials have appeared on the market; environmentally friendly waste from the woodworking industry has not lost its relevance as thermal insulation materials. It's about, of course, first of all about sawdust.

Sawdust is especially often used as insulation when building houses in regions rich in forested areas, since a large number of sawmills are usually located here. This means that it is possible to purchase material at a low price, and sometimes even find it for practically nothing.

Sawdust as insulation - “pros” and “cons”

Sawdust and materials made from it are used to insulate almost any element of the house - attic floors, walls, floors, cellars, etc. In addition, from wood waste produce blocks that are widely used for the construction of residential and ancillary buildings.

Sawdust is a waste that has a wide range of uses.

This material does not lose its popularity due to its positive characteristics, which include the following:

• One of the most important advantages can be safely called the absolute environmental purity of sawdust. They do not emit substances toxic to human health, so they can be used in any quantity.
• An important advantage is the already mentioned accessible to everyone low price material, and sometimes the opportunity to get them for free.

• Sawdust is wonderful, naturally, if the installation technology is followed correctly. If the thermal insulation layer corresponds to the required thickness, in accordance with the climatic conditions of the region, then such insulation will be in no way inferior in its effectiveness to other modern materials.

• Sawdust can be used for insulation, both in the usual bulk state and in other forms. For example, these could be slabs mixed with other natural or artificial materials.

The disadvantages of using this insulation in its pure form include high flammability. However, if you use sawdust in clay or cement mixtures, then their flammability is significantly reduced.

If we think from the standpoint that the rafters, attic floors and walls are made of wood pre-treated with fire retardants, then sawdust will fit perfectly into this building complex, provided that it is also subjected to special treatment. In addition, it will be necessary to provide high-quality insulation for all electrical cables that will cross the insulation layer or be located in its thickness. Requires special attention and thermal insulation of the chimney pipe where it passes through the attic floor or located near the wall.

It should be noted that sawdust is by no means the only natural material, which has long been used for home insulation. And if you look at the table below, they are in no way inferior to other natural ones." thermal insulators».

Natural insulation material	Weight of material kg/m3	Coefficient of thermal conductivity
Tow	180	0,037-0,041
cotton wool	80	0,036
Different felts	-	0,031-0,050
The fire is different	150-350	0,04-0,065
Moss	135	0.04
Sphagnum peat	150	0,05-0,07
Needles	430	0.08
Chopped straw stuffed	120	0.04
Straw mats	-	0,05-0,06
Fine wood shavings in packing	140-300	0,05-1,0
Dry leaves	-	0,05-0,06
Wood sawdust	190-250	0,05-0,08

Of course, not all sawdust is the same - much depends on the type and quality of the wood from which it was processed.

So, the almost unconditional “leader” in this matter is oak sawdust. They are less hygroscopic than sawdust obtained from trees of other species. Even if moisture gets on them, it will not cause them much harm, since oak contains natural antiseptic substances. Therefore, they are not susceptible to rot and do not swell when exposed to water.

However, oak sawdust is too widespread you can't call it material. It’s okay - waste from waste also works well as insulation. coniferous species: spruce, larch or pine. Coniferous wood contains in abundance essential oils that firmly resist the appearance of fungus or rot, that is, nature itself contains antifungal and antiseptic qualities in the material.

Preparing sawdust

Sawdust, clean, not prepared cannot be considered completely suitable for making blocks or for backfilling as insulation. After final drying, they become a very fire hazardous material. In addition, various insects or rodents may choose them to build nests.

Therefore, you must first work with clean material:

First of all, sawdust is processed special compounds having fire retardant properties.

The fire retardant will make sawdust practically non-flammable...

First, the sawdust is mixed with a deep penetration antiseptic, and after drying - with a fire retardant. All processes can be carried out on a lined film a ventilated area under a roof, for example, under a canopy.

... and the antiseptic will prevent biological processes of decay, the appearance of fungus, nests of insects and rodents

• After treatment with a fire retardant, the sawdust is mixed with slaked lime, which will not allow rodents and insects to settle in the insulation.

Lime is added to sawdust in proportions of 1:5, that is, one part lime to five parts sawdust. The measurement can be carried out in bags - for example, pour out five bags of sawdust and one bag of dry lime, and then mix thoroughly. If the work will be done manually, then mixing can be done using a regular hoe and shovel.

• In addition, you need to take into account that sawdust used for insulation in bulk form tends to sag over time, reducing the formed air gap and, naturally, losing its insulating qualities. Therefore, after a certain period, you will have to top them up or lay other insulation on top of them.

Taking into account this negative subsidence factor, in order to avoid the need for periodic updating or strengthening of the thermal insulation layer, a mixture is made consisting of sawdust, lime and gypsum in proportions 9: 1: 5. Then the mixture is moistened with water, mixed, and immediately laid on the prepared base .

Since gypsum hardens very quickly, the composition must be prepared in small portions in order to have time to place them in the place intended for them before they harden, otherwise the material will be damaged.

If you don’t want to rush, adjusting to the hardening time of the gypsum, it can be replaced with cement mortar.

When using this insulation method, pre-drying of the sawdust is not required. They can be used immediately after delivery from the sawmill.

Prices for various types of antiseptics

Antiseptics

Methods for insulating a house with sawdust

As mentioned above, for insulation using sawdust, several variants of different mixtures are used with the addition of gypsum and cement, but the most popular still remains the old folk method - a composition with clay.

Sawdust with clay

Clay and sawdust are two natural materials that are absolutely safe for the health of home residents. When mixed, they form a material with excellent heat-insulating and waterproofing qualities, so they are well suited for insulating walls and. After hardening, clay is not affected by hot steam, which cannot be said about most other modern insulation or waterproofing materials. Well, the sawdust in the mixture will create a good thermal insulation effect.

In addition, the clay-sawdust mixture withstands high temperatures and fireproof.

The advantages of this composition include the fact that such insulation is perfect for a house built in any region - both where the summer heat reaches critical thermometer levels, and where there are bitter frosts in winter.

A mixture of clay and sawdust not only retains heat during the cold period, but also prevents the rooms from heating up in the most extreme heat, so in the house, thermally insulated This mixture is warm in winter and cool in summer.

Unlike modern insulation materials, clay-sawdust material can last for centuries without decomposing or losing its original qualities.

Insulating a building using wood waste and clay is not so easy. To achieve the desired thermal insulation effect, it is necessary do work in accordance with certain requirements:

• The mixture must be prepared in compliance with certain proportions, otherwise the composition will have low adhesion, and if the walls are coated with it, then after drying, crumbling is possible.

• To achieve the maximum effect from insulation, the mixture on the walls must be applied correctly and have a certain thickness.

IN modern conditions this composition is rarely used for application to walls - most often sawdust with clay is used to create an insulating layer in the attic floor, where the material will not be subject to serious load.

If you want to insulate the walls, then it is best to make insulating slabs from clay and small sawdust or from chopped reeds or straw.

Experienced builders working with this material recommend using reeds, since for some reason it is absolutely resistant.

Plant fibers mixed with clay will become a kind of “reinforcement” for the solution, which will increase the load-bearing capacity of the insulating layer on the walls.

Preparing the mixture

There are several ways to make a clay-sawdust mixture for insulating a house. There are also several methods for laying it. Thus, mats can be made from the finished mixture, which are fixed to the walls and laid on the attic floor.

Another option is to spread the mixed wet mixture between the floor beams or apply it on the wall, on in advance fixed sheathing.

To produce an insulating mixture and its further use, it is necessary to prepare certain materials and tools. You will need:

• Sawdust, clay and water.
• Glassine and waterproof tape for fastening.
• A metal box with low sides (or trough) for mixing the mass.
• Large container for soaking clay.
• Bucket .
• Shovel and hoe.
• Smooth boards from which forms will be assembled for the manufacture of block panels.

In order for the mixture to be plastic and not crack upon drying, it is necessary to observe correct proportions source materials.

A. In the event that the mass in its raw form will be laid on the ceiling or on the surface of the walls, take ⅔ of a bucket of sawdust per bucket clay diluted to creamy condition.

To obtain this clay consistency, it is placed in a large container, for example, in an old bathtub or trough, and filled with water in a 1:1 ratio. The clay is left to swell for a day or more, depending on the initial dryness of the material.

Then the mass is mixed well until smooth. If the mixture turns out to be very thick, you can add a small amount of water to it, mix well again and leave more for 5 ÷ 6 hours. To process etc It went faster, the mass needs to be stirred periodically.

If possible, it is best to soak all the clay needed for the work at once - it will not deteriorate in any way, no matter how long it is in the water. And the solution can be mixed as the previously prepared portion is consumed.

If the farm has one, then the work will go much faster. But it is most convenient to mix manually using a hoe and shovel.

To mix the clay-sawdust solution, you will need another large but shallow container made of thin metal, with sides 150 ÷ ​​200 mm high. Gets enough sleep there required amount sawdust for one portion of the batch, and, according to the proportions, the clay mixture is laid out. Then the composition is mixed well and laid out on the prepared attic floor or applied to the walls.

B. If you decide to insulate a house with mats made from a clay-sawdust mixture, then the materials are taken in 1:1 proportions. While the clay is swelling, during this period you need to make molds the right size, into which the finished mixture will be placed.

If the mats will be laid on the attic floor, then it is worth determining the distance between the beams and their height - the forms are made according to these parameters. They are essentially a box with no bottom.

It is best to make several molds to make several mats at once. To make the blocks even on all sides, it is recommended to do the following:

• One or more plywood sheets are laid on a flat surface, which are covered with thick polyethylene film.
• Forms are installed on top.
• The prepared clay-sawdust mixture is laid out in them and, as far as possible, compacted.
• The composition is leveled from above using a rule - in this case, the sides of the form will serve as beacons.
• After the mixture has set and dried slightly, the mats can be removed, and further drying will take place without form, in a well-ventilated place under the roof. They cannot be taken out in the sun, since upon final drying the resulting blocks may crack.
• The emptied molds are filled again with the mixture - and this continues until the required number of mats is made.

The process of insulation with clay-sawdust composition

The technology of insulation with a clay-sawdust mixture is quite simple, both with the help of mats and by laying out the mixture in a wet state.

Insulation with clay-sawdust wet mass

1. When insulating attic floor using clay-sawdust mass, you must first prepare the surface on which it will be laid out.

• Floor boards and beams are processed antiseptic compounds. If there are wide gaps between the boards, then glassine can be laid between the floor beams. In the case when several sheets of glassine are laid, they must be overlapped and preferably secured with waterproof tape.

• Next, a clay-sawdust mixture is laid out on the floor and leveled using a rule.

• Then the leveled surface can be moistened with water and further leveled using a spatula.
• After the clay has completely hardened, it will become dense and you can safely walk on it.

2. can be carried out in two ways - throwing a wet mixture onto the walls or pouring it into formwork attached to a finished main or frame wall.

• On the main wall, the clay mortar is applied between the installed beacons using a trowel or thrown on by hand and leveled with a rule.

• Another option is to sketch the mixture on the wall on which the shingles are fixed. But in this case it will not be possible to lay a thick layer. A clay pile of no more than 30 mm can be supported on shingles.

• After the clay-sawdust layer has dried, it is leveled with sand-cement mortar and then with plaster.

3. The third option for insulating walls with a wet mass is to lay it in formwork installed along the main walls, or fixed on both sides to frame posts.

• Formwork panels are made from boards 1000 mm high. They are fixed on both sides of the frame posts or parallel to the main wall, at a distance of 200÷250 mm from it.
• The formwork is laid sawdust-clay mixtures with careful compaction. After this, the composition is given time to dry.
• After the mixture has dried, the formwork is removed and raised higher, where it is secured again in the same way.
• The filling process is repeated in the same order until the top of the wall is reached.

• Since there will be openings on top between the frame beam or wall and the ceiling that cannot be filled using this technology, you will have to make mats of the required size, install and fix them with clay mortar on top of the finished lower sections of the walls.

Insulation of walls and ceilings with clay-sawdust mats

Sawdust-clay mats are laid in the same way as mats of other insulating materials.

• The diagram looks like this:

1 – Attic floor beams.

2 – Ceiling.

3 – Subfloor of the attic floor.

4 – Glassine is placed on the bottom and top of the insulation.

5 – Sawdust-clay plate.

6 – Finished attic floor boards.

• The preparation of floor boards is carried out in the same way as when pouring clay mass.
• Next, the finished slabs are laid on the covered surface. If large gaps remain between the floor beams and the mats, they will have to be filled with a damp mass of clay and sawdust.
• To insulate main walls, a sheathing made of a block having the size of the mat thickness (if it is not more than 100 mm) is attached to them. The distance between the sheathing bars should be equal to the width of the mat. Installed slabs It will be most convenient to fix it with slats, nailing them onto the sheathing bars.
• In the event that insulation is carried out in a cold region, where average winter temperatures reach minus 25 ÷ 30 degrees, insulation boards must be at least 300 ÷ 400 mm thick. Such slabs, or rather blocks, are mounted on a clay-sand mortar, according to the principle of brickwork.

• If frame walls are insulated, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of two rows of bars or boards with a thickness of at least 70 ÷ 80 mm. If two bars are installed that determine the thickness of the wall of the house, then sawdust-clay the blocks will be stacked between them. To ensure that the blocks fit tightly together in the places where the frame bars are installed, square cutouts are made in their corners, repeating the shapes and dimensions of the block.

• When main walls are insulated, it is recommended to make masonry from blocks at a distance of 70 ÷ 100 mm from the wall.
• After the insulation layer has been raised by 800 ÷ 1000 mm, it is recommended to make a backfill of expanded clay between it and the wall.
• Then the insulating wall rises another 700 ÷ 1000 mm, backfilling is done again - and so on until the very top of the wall.
• Upon completion of insulation, the walls must be cement or clay mortar.

Sawdust with cement

If instead of clay, cement is chosen as a “partner” for sawdust, then the process of making, applying or laying the mixture is not much different from working with sawdust-clay solution, but the components and proportions are slightly changed.

So, in this case, in addition to cement and sawdust, lime is required. The components are taken in a ratio of 1:10:1. Additionally, copper sulfate or copper sulfate can be added to the mixture as an antiseptic. boric acid. These components will require approximately 50 g per 50 kg of mixture. Each portion of the mass will require from 5 to 10 liters of water, depending on the method of insulation.

If all ingredients are available, mix the mixture:

• All ingredients are poured into a container prepared for mixing and mixed dry with a hoe until smooth.
• Antiseptics are added last, and after that the mixture is immediately filled with water and mixed. It will be better if the antiseptic components are diluted in water poured into the mixture - then they will be absorbed into the sawdust faster.
• The mixed mixture must be checked for readiness. This is done like this: the mixture is taken into the palm of your hand and squeezed. If water does not ooze from the lump and it does not crumble, then the composition is ready for the manufacture of slabs, for laying in formwork or for spreading over the surface of the attic floor.

On the attic floor, just as in the case of clay, glassine is placed under the mixture being laid out, but in this case it can be replaced with plastic film.

After laying the wet insulation is completed, it is left to harden.

Insulation with bulk material

Insulation with dry sawdust is quite simple. Treated and dried sawdust is simply poured onto the attic floor. The thickness of their layer varies depending on the winter and summer temperatures of the region. More precisely, this parameter can be found in the table located at the beginning of the article.

Sawdust for insulation is used dry or in the form of sawdust granules - pellets.

They are made from fine sawdust with the addition of an antiseptic, fire retardant and carboxymethylcellulose glue. The finished granules are practically non-flammable and do not harbor rodents. It should be noted that they are more convenient and practical for insulating floors than just sawdust, since they do not shrink and retain heat well.

• The granules are poured onto the prepared surface - cracks The boards are coated with a clay-lime composition, or the subfloor of the ceiling is covered with glassine.
• The granules are distributed in an even layer between the floor beams. If a layer of greater thickness is required, then sides are installed along the perimeter of the attic, with a height equal to the required thickness of the backfill layer - then the granules are laid to their top.
• If you plan to make a floor in the attic from a plank covering laid on top of insulation, then additional sheathing is attached to the floor beams, that is, they are raised in height.

Video: insulating the attic with dry sawdust

Dry sawdust or granules are also used to insulate the walls, filling them inside. If ordinary sawdust is used, then it must be well treated with antiseptics. In addition, in order to make them heavier but maintain their low thermal conductivity, sawdust is sometimes mixed with slag. Walls built and insulated in this way reliably protect the house from the penetration of cold and summer heat.

• The insulation is backfilled as the main walls are raised by 700 ÷ 1000 mm, with obligatory, but not excessively strong, tamping for compaction.

• After backfilling and compaction, the walls are again raised to a certain height, and so the process continues until the entire required height has been reached.

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Conclusion:

With proper pre-treatment, both the sawdust itself and the compositions made using them are excellent thermal insulator, which is quite capable of replacing any of modern materials. Using them, you can be 100% sure that none of your household will develop allergies or other diseases associated with the release of toxic substances, which is sometimes the problem with some synthetic insulation materials.

Insulating the ceiling in a private house can significantly reduce the amount of heat loss during the cold period and significantly improve the indoor microclimate in the summer. High-quality thermal insulation will give you, in addition to increased comfort, tangible savings family budget on heating. The costs associated with the purchase of insulation will pay off in 2-3 years.

In addition to reducing the cost of heating a house, floor insulation solves a number of other problems. Preventing admission warm air in the attic, the insulating structure prevents the accumulation of water vapor and moisture in the under-roof space, which damages the rafters and floor beams. In addition, insulation allows you to avoid melting snow on the roof and the formation of large icicles, which are very dangerous during thaws. When organizing living space in the attic, the soundproofing function is very useful. In any case, ceiling insulation is necessary measure for a private home.

Anyone can carry out ceiling insulation work home handyman. Installation requires a minimum level of initial training for the performer. The tips below will help you avoid typical mistakes and carry out the planned work quickly, without exerting extra effort. By carefully planning the work process and preparing in a timely manner necessary materials in the right quantity, you will save your time, nerves and transportation costs. Let's take a closer look at how to properly insulate a ceiling in a private home.

Where to insulate the ceiling: inside or outside

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can be carried out both from the inside and from the outside. Both options give quite good results. They differ in the materials used and the methods of their installation, so each master chooses an option that is convenient for himself under specific living conditions, taking into account economic feasibility.

Options for attic insulation

With external insulation, the insulation is installed in the attic. If the attic space is not used, then the insulation in decorative finishing does not need, which distinguishes this option from the previous one. In addition, with external insulation it's much more convenient to work.

Internal insulation provides for fastening thermal insulation materials on the inner surface of the ceiling and installation suspended structures from plasterboard, plastic, wood, etc. It must be taken into account that with internal insulation, 15-20 cm of room height is lost. Therefore, if your ceiling is at 2.5 m or lower, then you should give preference to insulation from the attic.

Internal insulation is worth choosing if you are going to do repairs and plan installation suspended ceiling. In all other cases, preference should be given to external insulation.

Selection of material for thermal insulation

The following thermal insulation materials are popular for insulating private houses:

1. Styrofoam;
2. Expanded polystyrene;
3. Penoizol;
4. Polyurethane foam;
5. Penofol;
6. Mineral wool;
7. Basalt wool;
8. Ecowool;
9. Expanded clay;
10. Sawdust;
11. Vermiculite;
12. Dry grass, pine needles, reeds.

External insulation using polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is perhaps one of the cheapest and most accessible methods. This task is fairly easy to complete on your own. The materials are resistant to moisture, do not rot, do not burn, but in the event of a fire they melt, releasing acrid, toxic smoke. Expanded polystyrene essentially consists of the same material as polystyrene foam, but is manufactured slightly differently. The main disadvantages are the release of toxic phosgene gas during combustion and a relatively short service life (up to 10 years). When using them, it is necessary to pay attention increased attention fire safety.

Penoizol is a liquid foam plastic. Does not burn, is vapor permeable, biologically stable, and has superior thermal insulation properties to polystyrene foam. Manufacturers claim complete safety for humans after hardening. It is produced directly on site and installed using a special, expensive installation, so the work is carried out only by specialized teams. Convenient and economically feasible for large volumes.

Work is carried out similarly with polyurethane foam, which is synthesized from two liquid components. Depending on the proportion used, polymer foam with different properties is obtained. The surface is covered with a continuous layer without joints, eliminating the possibility of blowing through cracks. Disadvantage - toxic substances are released when burned.

The process of pouring penoizol

Penofol is foamed polyethylene covered with aluminum foil. Prevents the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon, reflects radiant heat into the room. The material is very light, does not create additional loads, and works very well in combination with mineral wool. Due to its small thickness, it has almost no effect on the height of the room.

Mineral wool contains mainly natural materials: sand, rocks or melts. Available in rolls and sheets of different sizes. It has good heat and sound insulation characteristics and an affordable price. Needs protection from moisture, as when wet it completely loses thermal insulation properties. It is resistant to temperature changes, restores its shape after load, but cakes over time. The material, unlike glass wool, is almost not scratchy, but still requires protective equipment when working. The main disadvantage is the phenol content, which can easily penetrate human skin.

Basalt wool is made from rock melts. Available in the form of mats and slabs. It is characterized by resistance to loads and high temperatures, hydrophobicity, and elasticity. The material is capable of transmitting water vapor and does not allow it to accumulate inside, does not shrink and can withstand use for up to 70 years without loss of quality. As well as mineral wool, contains phenolic binders, and the fibers can irritate the skin and mucous membranes.

When carrying out work indoors, mineral wool or basalt wool is usually used. This vapor permeable materials that allow the ceiling to “breathe”.

Ecowool is a bulk material of natural origin, consisting of 80% cellulose with borate additives, which protect it from easy ignition and rotting. Laying work can be carried out wet using a special installation and dry manually. Manual method extremely simple. It is enough to pour cotton wool between the joists onto previously laid glassine and lightly loosen it. Ecowool increases in volume by 2-3 times. The recommended layer thickness is 30 cm. Thermal conductivity is the same as that of mineral wool, while ecowool is not afraid of moisture and prevents the development of fungi and mold. Serves for more than 100 years.

Can be used for insulating attic floors using cheap local materials, such as expanded clay, sawdust, hay, pine needles, reeds, clay and slag. Their cost is often equal only to the cost of delivery, but their thermal insulation properties are noticeably lower and they are more difficult to install. Sawdust requires special protective treatment before laying. Otherwise, they can be damaged by rodents, rot and become very flammable. Hay is a tempting place for various small bugs and insects to settle. For a noticeable thermal insulation effect, all bulk insulation materials require a significant thickness - from 30 cm, which leads to a heavy load on the floors.

Good results are achieved by combining sawdust with vermiculite. Both materials are of natural origin, easily absorb moisture and easily release it, maintaining optimal humidity. Vermiculite is made from hydromica and is considered an ideal bulk insulation with environmentally friendly properties. In terms of thermal conductivity, it is comparable to mineral wool. The only drawback of vermiculite is the price.

Laying loose insulation materials involves filling them between the logs or beams of a specially made sheathing.

If the environmental friendliness of materials is important to you, then you should opt for expanded clay or sawdust with vermiculite. If high thermal insulation properties and ease of installation are important, your choice is basalt wool.

Insulation with basalt wool: step by step

Let's take a closer look at how to do external insulation with your own hands using one of the most effective insulation materials - basalt wool.

Necessary materials:

1. Basalt wool slabs 100 mm thick;
2. Vapor barrier film;
3. Waterproofing film;
4. Foil tape;
5. Wooden beam;
6. Hardware.

Tools:

1. Stapler;
2. Roulette;
3. Hacksaw or jigsaw;
4. Hammer;
5. Bench knife;
6. Screwdriver.

• Step 1. First of all, you need to thoroughly clean the attic and create a flat surface for laying basalt wool.
• Step 2. If the attic is planned to be residential, then a wooden frame is laid for the future floor. The pitch between the lags is determined in accordance with the width of the insulation boards in order to ensure the tightest possible fit.

In the presence of wooden beams ceiling insulation is placed in the space between them. If the height is insufficient, additional bars are attached on top.

If the attic will not be used, then this item can be skipped.

The height of the insulation depends on the climatic characteristics of the area and the roof structure. In most cases, it is optimal to use two layers of basalt wool 100 mm thick.

• Step 3. Vapor barrier film is laid. If the floor is reinforced concrete, then this point can be skipped, since it has low vapor permeability.

Fastening to floor beams or joists is carried out using a construction stapler and folding the edges. During new construction, the film is placed under the beams. The sheets are overlapped by 150 - 200 mm, fastened with moisture-resistant tape and must be placed on the walls by at least 200 mm to guarantee the prevention of moisture penetration. The best option is to use foil material. In this case, the sheets are placed end-to-end with the foil down and taped with special tape.

Beams and joists are not covered with a vapor barrier film to avoid the accumulation of moisture in them and rapid rotting.

• Step 4. Sheets of basalt wool are laid on the vapor barrier film, avoiding cracks at the joints if possible. Gaps of 2-3 cm are left near the walls, which are not closed to ventilate the cotton wool.

• Step 5. The second layer is laid with maximum displacement of the seams. In cold climates, a third layer will not be amiss. It is laid across the previous ones and eliminates all potential cold bridges.

For an attic floor that will not be used, you can stop here (unless, of course, the roof is leaking), or you can play it safe by following the recommendations of the next paragraph.

• Step 6. A waterproofing film is laid to protect the wool from moisture from entering from above during operation.
• Step 7. The structure for moving around the attic is mounted.

For a residential attic, boards and, if necessary, a finishing coating are laid, for non-residential attic It is enough to provide walking bridges during technical inspection and maintenance of the roof.

It is better to carry out work in the warm season - in summer or early autumn.

For external insulation, it is better to take vapor-proof materials to protect the ceiling from moisture; for internal insulation - vapor permeable.

The more air the insulation contains, the more effective it is, so we must strive to provide maximum “fluffiness” to materials such as mineral wool, ecowool, and sawdust.

External insulation will always be cheaper and easier to do.

When using internal ceiling insulation and using some models of built-in ceiling lamps frequent burnout of light bulbs is possible due to lack of heat dissipation. In this case, it is better to hang an ordinary traditional chandelier.

For vapor barrier, you can only use a special film with appropriate markings or glassine; you cannot use ordinary polyethylene.

Penofol is always placed with the foil down.

You can perform complex insulation by combining different insulation materials.

Carrying out insulation basalt wool It is necessary to use a mask and protective clothing that completely covers the body.

Before starting work, you should carefully study the advantages and disadvantages of all available thermal insulation materials, analyze their operational capabilities, estimate the costs and complexity of installation. Making a carefully considered decision and installing thermal insulation, taking into account the above recommendations, will guarantee a safe and effectively insulated ceiling in a private home.