To say that you will be pleasantly surprised when you hear on the phone or read on the car service website the cost of local painting of parts of your car, or, especially, complete painting, means to say nothing.
Car painting technology
But it needs to be painted. The time has already come for a complete painting of the car, or a situation has arisen when it needs to be done with it further. Exit? There is always a way out. It involves painting the car body with your own hands. Don't worry, everything will work out for you. Just before you start painting, practice on old part bodies, which are in abundance around any garage.
Let's start by telling you a “secret”. Car painting technology has general principles actions, it doesn’t matter whether you want to paint, metallic paint, paint a body part, or carry out.
The difference will only be in the selection of materials for painting and the time you spend. Don't forget to include here the material and time for training painting. A little more time, a little more materials, but the experience gained is worth it.
So, we will conditionally divide the car painting technology into the following areas:
- Stages of car painting.
- Procedure for painting a car.
- Car painting technique.
And conditionally because these directions of action can change or organically complement each other.
Stages of car painting
Preparation of material and equipment. What do you need to paint a car? Materials for painting: putty, primer, paint and varnish, depending on the area and your choice of car color. standard.
The main elements of the equipment are: a grinder with wheels, construction hair dryer, spray gun, compressor, sandpaper, sanding plane.
Body preparation. This stage includes: washing the body, dismantling everything that does not need painting, repairing areas of the body if necessary, preparing the surface for puttying, puttying, priming the surface.
That's it, your car is ready for painting. But this requires preparation. The instructions for painting a car directly indicate the presence of a perfectly clean area when applying paint and varnish. This is the kind of spray booth we will make from the garage.
Preparing the site. A stage that is rarely talked about is preparing the area for painting. This place is the garage. A standard 3x6 garage is not suitable for full painting, but it is ideal for local painting of body parts. The technique of painting a car completely requires at least a space measuring 4x6 meters.
We remove and produce everything unnecessary general cleaning premises. With a vacuum cleaner and Dichlorvos in summer time. This way, we eliminate the possibility of dust, debris and insects ruining your car painting efforts during the varnishing stage. Wet the walls, floor, and ceiling with water. There is no need for puddles, but there should not be dry places either.
As an option: the garage from the inside, after full preparation bodies for painting can be covered with plastic film. To do this, you just need to have tape and film.
Car painting procedure
Each master has his own procedure for painting a car, but, nevertheless, there are basic principles that should be followed. All removable parts must be removed and painted locally. This applies to doors, optics, handles, moldings, etc. Those. the car body should remain “naked”.
Painting of parts should begin with internal or hidden surfaces. Exterior painting is done last, and it begins with the roof of the car.
Car painting technique
Car painting techniques for different types The painting is also no different. If you are using aerosol can to remove chips and cracks, then instructions for using the cylinder are given on it.
When painting a car with a spray gun, it is important to withstand general rules painting techniques. They are not complicated, but the quality of the layers depends on their implementation, and in the end, appearance auto.
- for applying paint. Recommended No. 1.4. It all depends on the paint.
- Compressor pressure selection. As a rule, 2.5 - 3 atm is optimal.
- The distance of the spray gun nozzle from the surface to be painted is 150-250 mm.
- Layers of application. 2-3 layers of paint are recommended. The application movements should be uniform and it is important not to overdo it with the thickness of the layer to avoid smudges. Otherwise this place will have to be completely repainted. The intervals between applying layers should be 15-20 minutes for the paint to dry.
Expert opinion
Ruslan Konstantinov
Automotive expert. Graduated from Izhevsk State Technical University named after M.T. Kalashnikov, specializing in “Operation of transport and technological machines and complexes.” Experience professional repair cars for more than 10 years.
After painting, the coating is exposed to various influences for several more weeks, despite the fact that the varnish hardens within a couple of days. Average better car do not use after painting for at least a week and a half for optimal crystallization of the paint and creation of a film on the surface. At this time, do not use brushes to sweep away dust; avoid direct contact with the coating. sun rays and atmospheric precipitation. If it is not possible to meet the deadline, then you should avoid traveling on country roads and long distances. As for polishing, this procedure can only be done a month after painting. Until then, you can use regular gentle paint care products containing wax.
Many motorists are wondering: when can you wash your car after painting without damaging the paintwork? Wash the car and especially with car washes high pressure possible only after two weeks. Some people wash their car after just a couple of days, but in this case there is a high probability of damage to the coating, especially if washed incorrectly. First of all, at least a month needs to be excluded detergents with aggressive chemical composition, cannot be used household chemicals. It is advisable to use a soft sponge at first and clean water, it is better if it is flowing. You should not wash your car in the sun, because drops of water can become real lenses and heat up certain areas, thus damaging the paintwork.
This, in fact, is the technology for painting a car. After painting, in 98% of cases the car is required.
Good luck, car lovers.
Alkyd enamel- This paint material, made from alkyd resins. Such paints dry quickly, can be mixed with other solutions and are excellent for decorative purposes. This material can be used not only as a paint, but also as an anti-corrosion primer. It is most often necessary to dilute alkyd paint in order to save money, for example, when a can has been covered with a film.
Before use, this paint must be diluted (with the exception of some types, such as PF 15 and “Extra”). Solvents are of the following types:
- White Spirit. This type has excellent dissolution properties of elements of petroleum origin, organic compounds oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen. White spirit is suitable for thinning even heavily thickened enamel. In appearance, it is a colorless oily liquid with the smell of gasoline, sold in containers from 10 to 216 liters.
- Xylene. Flammable liquid, transparent or with a slight yellowish tint. It can be used both as a diluent and as a high-octane fuel additive. Xylene is also suitable for degreasing the surface before painting. Can also be used in pure form, and mixing with some other element.
- Solvent. A colorless product that is released from petroleum feedstock. It is used not only as a solvent, but also as a cleaner and degreaser. Solvent is included in many paints and varnishes.
- Turpentine. It consists of a complex mixture of hydrocarbons (mainly terpenes). One of the traditional remedies that has been used for many years. Before the advent of white spirit, turpentine was also the most popular.
- Solvent 646. Most often used for thinning paints and varnishes. It is a mixture of several substances: acetone, butyl acetate, ethyl and butyl alcohol. Its addition gives the paint a glossy effect, promotes the formation of a high-quality film on the surface, which is very convenient when you need to quickly paint small areas. This product is extremely active, so you need to work with it very carefully so as not to damage the bottom layer of paint.
The choice of solvent depends on the type of alkyd enamel:
Mode of application
When thinning the paint, the thinner should be added in small portions, while mixing well. This helps to get the right consistency. The optimal amount of solvent should be 15% of the total volume, otherwise resin may fall out and damage the material. Strongly thickened enamel is first diluted, mixed, left for 3-4 hours, and then brought to the desired consistency with a thinner.
Almost all solvents are flammable, so they should be stored in a closed container, out of the reach of children. Opening containers with such liquids is permitted only with tools that do not produce sparks upon impact.
When working with thinners, you must remember to take precautions: wear a protective respiratory mask and gloves, since even a small contact of substances with the skin can cause irritation. If liquid does get on open areas skin, then they must be washed with warm water and soap, and if on the mucous membrane or in the eyes, then you need to promptly consult a doctor.
If these liquids ignite during operation, it is necessary by special means fire extinguishing: air-mechanical or chemical foam from fire extinguishers. Water is useless in this case.
In a room in which work in progress with diluents, good ventilation must be ensured to prevent the vapors from causing dizziness. If you use auto enamel in a garage, you must turn on the ventilation or open the doors and windows.
All solvents have a certain hazard class, for example, for 646 it is class 3, which must be recorded in the product passport.
It should be noted that a high-quality diluent should not leave white or dull spots during operation; it does not freeze or become viscous.
Solvent for car painting is one of the most important and essential components in painting work Oh. There are a large variety of them and only certain ones are needed to properly dilute the paint. So, in order not to be mistaken about how to dilute paint, acrylic or any other, we will consider the main types of solvents and their use.
In principle, a diluent and a solvent are one substance. Both serve to bring the material to the required viscosity (paint, primer, liquid putty, base enamel, etc.)
The manufacturer always indicates which solvent is best to use for painting a car. Each paint system has its own required hardener and thinner. Be sure to read the instructions on the back of the container before use. It will indicate what type of thinner to use, at what temperature and for what material.
It’s worth mentioning right away which solvents should not be used to dilute acrylic paint– these are organic 646, 647, 650, etc. When diluting paint or varnish with them, painting difficulties may arise. Use them only for washing or other tools. The price for them is not great for cleaning.
Types of solvents and thinners, which one to choose?
If you have a question, how to dilute acrylic paint? There is only one answer: use any branded acrylic solvent. Even if it is from a different brand than the paint, varnish, primer, etc. being mixed. Just don't use the ones mentioned above! Branded acrylic solvent is an order of magnitude more expensive than conventional thinners, but for quality repairs It is recommended to use them.If the branded acrylic has run out or you want to save money, you can use domestic manufacturer material thinner universal solvent P12. It has been successfully tried on almost everyone acrylic materials(varnishes, acrylic paints, primers, epoxy substances). There were no problems or defects. It can safely be considered a universal solvent. P12 is “normal.
And so, the main criterion for choosing a thinner for diluting paint is the ambient temperature. Temperature needs to be determined environment before painting and then choose the right one. Temperature affects the drying time of the material. In hot weather, the solvent evaporates faster and the paint does not have time to spread. Defects, large shagreen, and dust appear. In cold weather, evaporation will be too slow and there will be more debris.
There are three groups of acrylic thinners:
- Slow
- Normal
- Fast
Therefore, for high-quality work, always choose a material at a certain air temperature.
If it is cold, then use a “fast” thinner at a temperature of 5 to 15 degrees. At normal temperatures from 15 to 25, “normal” is used. And in hot weather from 25 degrees, a slow one is necessary. All figures are approximate; for exact determination, see the manufacturer's instructions. The photo below shows a series of thinners from Body 740 741 742.
It should be noted that there is no special thinner for varnish or for primer, acrylic. To dilute them, use a universal acrylic thinner. But for base enamel there is a base solvent. Although many people use the usual universal one.
Transition solvents
In addition to universal ones, there is also a solvent for transition. They are not intended for thinning varnishes and enamels. Their purpose is to create an imperceptible transition boundary between the old and new paint or varnish. To do this, apply the transition solvent from a spray gun or aerosol can for dry “spraying” in the transition zone of varnish or acrylic paint.
It is extremely important to note that the solvent for transferring over varnish or acrylic paint and for transferring over the base, also called “Binder,” are completely different products. A paint binder is something like a transparent base. It is used so that the metallic grain does not stick out like a “hedgehog” in the transition zone, but “settles down” correctly, which will ensure a high-quality invisible transition.
How to mix paints correctly.
For high-quality painting, the paint and varnish material must have a certain viscosity and in order to mix it correctly there is special tool:
Each has its own advantages and what to use is purely everyone’s choice. The measuring ruler is reusable and will last a very long time, unlike a measuring cup. Measuring rulers are double sided (on each side different proportions mixing). Basically like this: 2:1 and 4:1 and another option is 3:1 and 5:1.
How to use the measuring ruler and glass in the photo below, there is nothing complicated about it.
Before mixing paints, be sure to read the instructions on the packaging in what ratio to dilute the material. Below I will tell you in what proportions to mix different paints.
Mixing acrylic paint "acrylic":
For Vika paint this is a 4:1 ratio with hardener and 20%-30% thinner. And for Mobihel 2:1 with hardener and 10% -20% thinner.
Mixing base:
The base paint is generally mixed 2:1. That is, the base itself and half of it is the solvent. It can also be mixed 1:1.
Mixing varnishes:
The story with varnishes is almost the same as with acrylics. The varnish is diluted 2:1 with hardener and thinner from 0% to 20%. Depending on what viscosity you need it.
All the above mentioned figures are approximate and may vary depending on specific needs, type of work, and application technique. In general, read the instructions before use and there will be no problems.
To accurately determine the viscosity of paint, there is a special tool called a viscometer. The operation of the viscometer: the viscometer is immersed in paint, taken out and timed for how long it takes to empty. As soon as the stream begins to drip, the stopwatch is stopped.
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Hi all. I think the title of the article speaks for itself - “stages of painting a car with your own hands, step-by-step algorithm” therefore there will not be a short announcement of the article that is accepted on our website... Straight to the body...
The first stage of painting is choosing paint.
If the car is to be painted partially, then there is no choice, we take the paint with which the rest of the body is painted, but if the car is to be painted completely, then you can change the color and type of paint, but we have information on how to choose paint for a car on our website
The second stage is washing and damage assessment.
At this stage, we inspect a completely clean car, assess the corrosion damage to body elements, and decide on the need for welding work.
The third stage is disassembly.
At this stage, we remove all components and assemblies that will interfere with us when painting the car. For example, when painting a wing, it is necessary to remove the locker, turn signal, headlight, and sometimes moldings.
When completely painting a car, it is necessary to remove handles, windows, door locks, mudguards and fender liners, moldings, antennas, headlights and similar elements. Disassembly is carried out individually each time, and what exactly is removed depends on whether the entire body is being painted or just part of it.
The fourth stage is welding and straightening (if necessary).
At this stage, using a grinder, all damaged body panels or parts of body panels (for example, arches) are cut out. Immediately after welding, the weld seams are ground using grinding disc on a grinder and treated with joint sealant.
If body elements are damaged from impacts, sometimes they may require straightening (this will improve the quality of the repair and reduce the consumption of materials in the future).
The reverse side of the panel after welding and straightening is treated with Movil, bitumen mastic, or anti-gravel. These coatings are applied in accordance with the instructions for use; in some cases, the coatings are applied over a primer, such as anti-gravel.
The fifth stage is puttying and matting.
At this stage, primer is applied to all painted surfaces. The primer is applied to a previously prepared surface.
I call the prepared surface old paint, bare metal of the body, or putty, which has no gloss and is matted with sandpaper number 240-360. When applied to glossy surface The primer will not stick and will fall off during the first wash.
Immediately before applying the primer, it is necessary to degrease the surface using silicone remover or gasoline (we also have a separate article about this).
The primer is applied in accordance with the specific manufacturer's instructions using a spray gun with a 1.4-1.6 mm nozzle.
After application, the primer is dried until completely dry.
The eighth stage is preparation for paint.
At this stage, we apply the mat to the ground, sequentially treating it with sandpaper with numbers 240-480 (acrylic), and 240-800 (metallic). It is better to matte with water, as the speed of work increases and the consumption decreases sandpaper and reduces the amount of dust in the air.
The ninth stage is re-pasting.
At this stage, we replace old films on glass and body parts that do not require painting. The fact is that when applying paint, the films will inevitably flutter and the primer that was previously applied to them will fly off, as you understand, according to the law of meanness, it will fall in flakes on fresh, not yet dry paint and ruin the coating.
It is better to re-glue the film with primer before painting! Personally, I prefer to cover the car with newspapers or wallpaper for painting (they don’t flutter as much as film and dried paint doesn’t fly off of them)
The tenth stage is coloring.
At this stage, paint is applied to the prepared soil and the pasted car. Immediately before painting, it is necessary to degrease the surface using silicone remover.
The paint is applied in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations using a spray gun with a 1.2-1.3 mm nozzle. Usually the paint is applied in 3-4 layers. If acrylic enamel is used as paint, usually the painting ends at stage 12 (drying). Although acrylic enamel can also be applied under varnish.
The eleventh stage is varnishing.
After the base enamel has dried, in the case of metallic, it is necessary to remove dust from the surface. This is done using a so-called sticky napkin. antistatic.
Before varnishing, do not degrease the metallic surface, as removing the silicone will wash it off! Therefore, varnishing begins 20-30 minutes after applying the last metallic layer.
The varnish is applied in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions; usually when varnishing, a spray gun with a nozzle diameter of 1.4-1.5 mm is used
The varnish is applied in 2-3 layers, depending on the manufacturer and painting conditions.
The twelfth stage is drying.
After applying the last layer of varnish or paint (in the case of acrylic), drying is necessary. Complete drying time for acrylic enamels V normal conditions is 24 hours. At elevated temperatures or when using ultra-fast hardeners, drying time is reduced to 2-6 hours.
During this time, the paint dries completely, but does not “stand up”, i.e. does not gain final strength. Complete polymerization of varnish/paint usually takes 1-2 weeks.
The thirteenth stage is assembly.
After the paint has dried, we unstick the car and replace all previously removed elements (headlights, glass, repeaters, moldings, etc.). Care is important when assembling, as fresh paint scratches very easily.
The fourteenth stage is polishing and eliminating imperfections.
Often, if you painted for the first time, dust remains on the paint, shagreen has not spread, all these troubles are removed by polishing. Polishing can be carried out no earlier than 2 weeks after painting the car.
If there are smudges on the paint, they are sanded out using the described technology.
Painting work is a variety of execution techniques, as well as the use various devices, equipment and paints and varnishes. Before starting painting work, you need to rationally choose color scheme premises. To carry out both indoor and outdoor work, certain types of paints, varnishes, putties, etc. have been created, which, depending on operating conditions, differ in components and characteristics. A significant segment of the paint and varnish market is occupied by alkyd paints and enamels, which have a number of useful properties.
What's in it?
The composition of alkyd painting materials largely determines the properties and characteristics of varnishes, paints and primers. In general, any paint and varnish material contains ingredients such as:
- coloring pigments;
- various excipients;
- thinners;
- driers – substances that accelerate drying, etc.
As for alkyd paints, they contain alkyd polymers (resins) as foaming agents.. But depending on the type of resin, pentaphthalic and glyphthalic binders are distinguished, and, accordingly, pentaphthalic (marking - PF) or glyphthalic (GF) enamels, primers and varnishes are produced. In addition, in addition to traditional liquid ones, thickly grated compositions are also produced (GF-013, PF-014, etc.). Enamel painting material, or simply enamel, is a paint with which you can obtain not a matte, but a glossy or even mirror-like surface.
The segment of alkyd materials includes paints having the following base:
- drying oil (marking - MA);
- glyphthalic and pentaphthalic varnishes (marking - GF and PF);
- oil-phenolic varnish (marked FA).
These types of coloring compounds can be mixed with each other. In addition, to dilute or dissolve them, the same solvents and thinners are used, but when preparing the working surface for application, identical primers and putties are used.
As for the methods of working with such compositions, as a rule, all pentaphthalic and glypthalic enamels are applied in two layers using a roller or brush. With this method of application, the material consumption will be, on average, 150 g/m2. Complete drying of PF or GF paint occurs after 24-36 hours (similar to oil paints).
Solvents and thinners
When working with pentaphthalic and glyphthalic materials, sometimes it becomes necessary to dilute them to the desired consistency.
For these purposes, special thinners are used. In the case of alkyd paints, thinners are also solvents, i.e. substances that can dissolve enamel coatings. In turn, the purpose of the thinner is to thin the paint and help create a uniform film. But solvent substances dissolve paints and enamels, then evaporate, thereby weakening paintwork. Such volatile substances include white spirit, turpentine, solvent and gasoline solvent, as well as special substances that serve as solvents for certain painting materials.
The main thinner for paints based on alkyd polymers is white spirit, solvent, turpentine, xylene, gasoline solvent Nefras-S 50/170, RS-2, as well as mixtures of these reagents.
Depending on the type of material, thinners can be different substances, For example:
- RS-2, turpentine, as well as white spirit, solvent or a mixture of any two thinners in a 1:1 ratio serve as a thinner for PF-14, PF-1217 enamels.
- White spirit dilutes PF 1126 enamel.
- RS-2, turpentine, solvent (gasoline), white spirit, solvent, xylene or mixtures thereof act as thinners for enamels GF-230, PF-560, PF-115, PF-223.
- GF-1426 enamel is dissolved to the required consistency, using both xylene and solvent, or using a mixture of any of the above with white spirit.
When working with substances and mixtures that dissolve or dilute enamels, a number of nuances should be taken into account.
How to dilute?
PF or GF enamels are sold ready for application and with the degree of thickness that best matches the composition of the material. However, if the composition needs to be diluted, it is necessary to add only the minimum amount of diluent, for example:
- If necessary exterior painting, then the finished paint should be diluted by adding a thinner in an amount of no more than 3% of the total volume of enamel.
- For interior works The finished paint should be diluted with a thinner amount of no more than 5% of the total volume.
- If you dilute the composition with a large amount of thinner, the enamel flows down (in particular, from vertical planes) and forms streaks. In addition, they decrease performance characteristics paint coating.
It should be noted that the material composition and percentage ingredients in painting materials are not accidental and are the result of many years of experience. Therefore, the desire to do better quality painted surface, adding a thinner in an arbitrary amount often leads to a deterioration in the characteristics of the coating.