How to treat OSB indoors. Covering a frame house with OSB panels. Disadvantages and advantages of OSB boards

In order to paint OSB with high quality with your own hands, you need to take a responsible approach to choosing the mixture.

Dye

Several types of material can be used.

Organosoluble

One of the simplest and most popular solutions, the composition provides fairly high adhesion to the surface of OSB panels. Traditional options:

Oily. Coloring with such mixtures is widespread, although in last years decreases. This is explained by the fact that the products are quite toxic and have a pungent odor. The resulting coating has a service life of 3–5 years, after which it fades and loses decorative qualities.

Alkyd. A universal variety that allows painting inside and outside the premises. The treated surface has a bright and rich color that lasts for a long time. Compared to the previous version, enamel is more resistant to any weather conditions, but is not environmentally friendly and has a wide decorative range.

Water-based

The most modern products with high aesthetic and performance qualities. For processing OSB, compositions with a polymer component are used. This list includes:

Acrylic. The mixtures are absolutely safe, UV resistant and easy to apply. When working with particle boards, water-based compositions require high-quality priming and application of the solution in thin layers. It is necessary to prevent excessive moisture absorption, otherwise the panel may swell.

Latex. Painting a surface with such a mixture is quite simple; the material has almost the same advantages as the previous one, but differs more high cost. This includes the rubber variety, ideal for outdoor use.

Primer-paint

On a note! When choosing a composition for different processes, it is better to give preference to certain categories, even taking into account the fact that many mixtures are universal. This is especially true for facade works, therefore in such a situation it is advisable to purchase special solutions.

Primer

Due to the fact that OSB-3 boards, which have low adhesion due to additional treatment against moisture penetration, are most often used for cladding interior structures of premises and facades, priming is a mandatory procedure. In addition, this significantly reduces paint consumption and reduces the likelihood of deformation when choosing water-based compositions.

The following varieties are suitable for this work:

Drying oil. This is a simple solution if you plan to use oil paints.

Concrete contact. Although any can be used modern compositions based on polymers classified as deeply penetrating, this mixture is optimal. It fits well on the surface and impregnates it, forming a rough layer that provides the best adhesion.

Concrete contact primer is used to ensure maximum adhesion of paint to the OSB surface

After laying and drying any type of soil, it is necessary to quickly treat the base with decorative or protective materials. During this period, adhesion is maximum.

Impregnation

The following varieties are used:

Like drying oil, it helps protect the material from the harmful effects of water, preventing rotting. Although the outside of the building is sheathed with moisture-resistant products of classes 3 and 4, OSB-2 boards are most often found inside; they are processed separately. Stain is also applied as a decorative layer when covering panels with varnish.

If you want to preserve the texture and give the slab a noble red tint, stain is used

Fire retardants. They are recommended to process all sides and ends of parts before installation. Fire retardant impregnation reduces the likelihood of fire, and also increases the time during which the material will be flame resistant.
Antiseptics. Such protection is required to prevent the appearance of mold and mildew, which are most often caused by dampness.

Important! Particular attention must be paid to the ends of parts located outdoors. They are impregnated more thoroughly, since it is in these places that destruction begins, caused by the harmful effects of the environment.

Varnish

This composition is more suitable for indoor work. For floors or ceilings, colorless varnish is more often used to ensure the preservation of the natural appearance of the material. To enhance the ambience, well-defined wood chips can be treated with a stain of a suitable color, which is not just applied, but literally shaded.

To convey texture natural wood choose colored varnishes. But the structure of the panel is extremely heterogeneous, so obtaining a uniform coating will not be so easy, regardless of the chosen paint and varnish mixture. The desired result can be achieved by painting the base 3 to 6 times.

Colored varnishes can imitate a variety of wood types

Features of painting OSB boards outside

Work on the street involves the creation of a decorative layer, which will also play a protective role. For the process you will need a simple list of tools, suitable for covering walls inside the house:

Spray gun. For each composition, the desired option is selected.
Paint roller. It is better to provide several replaceable nozzles.
Tassels. For work in hard-to-reach places.

Everything you need is purchased in advance.

Surface preparation

Before installing the sheets, high-quality impregnation of the ends of the parts is carried out. Further actions:

After all processes are completed, the facade is left to dry completely.

Applying paint

You can cover the prepared surface with the selected solution according to the following scheme:

If necessary, the composition is diluted to the desired consistency. To spray, it must be more liquid, but because of this the number of layers increases and the consumption increases significantly.
The solution begins to be laid from top to bottom in a single layer.
The pronounced dark areas that appear are left, they are eliminated only evenly and consistently.
Next, layer by layer is laid until the desired result is achieved. After each treatment, the base dries out.

If you carry out all the steps without haste, you will end up with a coating with a slightly protruding texture of wood chips.

Painting slabs indoors

The process can be performed in two ways, depending on preference. But preliminary preparations are carried out, almost similar to those for external areas. The only difference is that moldings are not used to hide seams inside the house, unless provided for by the interior design.

Classic method

This method involves simply applying OSB paint to the wall surface. After preparing the base, the decorative mixture is mixed and applied evenly and sequentially in several layers to all treated areas. If putty was previously used, the painted surface will be uniform, but if it is absent, a strong or weak texture will be observed, depending on the amount of material applied.

Painting OSB without prior puttying allows you to preserve the texture of the material

It is much easier to treat the floor: after sanding, it is prepared and covered with 4-5 layers of clear varnish.

Decorative method

To decorate the base of oriented strand panels beautifully, you can use various techniques. For example, aging of the coating. Instructions:

The slabs are carefully sanded and primed until smooth.
Acrylic patina is being prepared. It is quickly applied to the desired areas or the entire surface. The longer the mixture sits on the base, the richer the color becomes.
The solution is wiped off with a rag.
Next, you need to paint the material with a light shade to highlight the darker areas.

An alternative method could be easy installation several colors, but each subsequent layer should be “softer” than the previous one.

Caring for painted OSB

At making the right choice decorative composition and following the preparation and application technology, further procedures will be as follows:

After 5-7 years (depending on the composition), a light treatment with a thin layer of diluted solution can be performed to revitalize the surface.
Significant difficulties arise due to the shrinkage of the house; more serious reconstruction may be required. But if the frame was positioned accurately, observing the gaps, then you will only need to rearrange the moldings on the outside and minor finishing work on the inside, followed by painting in the desired color.
Shabby flooring re-sanded and varnished.

Painting OSB is not the most difficult process, requiring accuracy and a precise sequence of all actions to obtain a high-quality result.

Very convenient and multifunctional material for different construction work– oriented- particle boards. Since the production technology of these slabs is not complicated, for interior finishing work the master can choose a specific option from four types OSB boards or consider special types of these boards.

What are the sheets of these products made of? Everything is simple - wood chips are used (flat fragments are used), shavings: these materials are glued together and the result is actually an excellent finishing material. Three or four layers of chips or shavings – these are the indicators that can be called optimal. Installing OSB on walls is more preferable than using the same chipboard.

However, oriented strand boards are a kind of modification of wood-fiber material, some of its modern analogue. If finances allow, it is better to choose OSB for facing work (plywood or chipboard are increasingly being abandoned today).

Scope of OSB, classification of boards

Before considering the classification of slabs and deciding which is the best OSB for finishing walls, it is important to pay attention to the characteristics of such a material.

Types of OSB boards

Here everything is as follows:

OSB boards of the first class - they are usually chosen for rooms where there is a low level of humidity;
Type two - the material can be safely chosen for dry rooms; it is even used as structural element during construction work;
Type 3 OSB – these boards are used in rooms where there is a high level of humidity;
The fourth type of such products is used for cladding structures that can cope even with significant mechanical loads. Moreover, we are talking about conditions where there is a high level of humidity.

Application area

One thing can be said about the scope of application - OSB installation the task is truly urgent, since such slabs are used in many construction aspects.

It’s just that this material has such a manufacturing technology, due to which all internal defects are simply eliminated (at the same time, in chipboard sheets they very often appear - voids, uneven fillings). Due to all this, OSB is a more preferable option - it does not deform and does not shrink.

And now in detail - where exactly can this material be used??

OSB cladding is often a very profitable solution for walls. Due to this approach, the house receives reliable protection from dampness, while also gaining additional insulation. What's best here: in additional finishing works there is no need after installing OSB;
Under construction frame-panel houses OSB boards are usually used, which have high level moisture resistance;
Since the material has such valuable quality, it makes a decent reusable formwork;
It is used as a base when making external cladding walls, as well as internal works– if wooden finishing is carried out country houses, cottages (made of timber, rounded logs);
OSB boards are your faithful assistant if you are making sheathing or rafters for the roof. This material can work even under serious load - it will definitely withstand the weight of not only the roof itself, but also all associated loads (wind, snow) - even if natural tiles(material that weighs little);
If you need to level the floors in your house or lay them from scratch, here again you can pay attention to the installation of OSB. Just such a slab - perfect option to create a very strong, even base. It’s better not to find it under plank floorboards, carpets or other coverings;
Pay special attention to the process when you need to adjust the joints of the slabs to a plane. If necessary, they must be equalized - without this there is no way.

An interesting point - not every manufacturer can use OSB boards as underlying layers - in case of organization floor coverings. And the panels are laid so that the smooth side is facing up.

What else does a master need to know?? Following:

Apply additional protective covering it is not necessary in the form of paint or varnish - the material initially has excellent protection in the form of a special impregnation;
Processing slabs is not that difficult - about the same as ordinary wood. Screws and nails adhere perfectly to the surface. OSB boards are not afraid of rotting, fungal influences, the decorative qualities of such material are excellent;
OSB panels today are often used in furniture production– after all, this is an excellent alternative to natural solid wood (but in terms of cost, it is significantly more profitable);
The material does not weigh that much - therefore it is perfect for finishing, construction, painting work and more.

How to finish a house faster

It is quite logical that any owner wants to move into his home faster - especially if the construction is carried out independently. Private cottages are located separately from neighboring buildings - so in this design you don’t have to worry about neighbors.

Here a completely reasonable question may arise: maybe not to do rough sheathing - but to immediately attach the OSB finishing materials directly to the frame racks?

Is this approach to the matter allowed, or is it excluded?

If you pay attention to the instructions compiled by professionals, it will immediately become clear: you cannot do this. There will also be reasons for this conclusion. Simply, it is important to insulate the house - only in this situation will it be comfortable (especially since winters in the Russian Federation are cold - almost throughout the entire territory).

Why are frame bevels required at all - lower and upper? Everything is simple here: they form spatial rigidity - together with the cladding. They can also be called mandatory elements if we consider the design of any frame structure.

A frame that does not have slopes will retain its mobility even with cladding - as is the case when there are any. However, if there is no cladding, you can imagine what the consequences may be.

External rough wall cladding

Today, many different materials are used for rough cladding. There is definitely a choice here - everyone will agree with this. Pay attention to at least these options:

Board;
OSB boards.

Any of these surfaces needs finishing: this could be facing with plaster - with a mesh or a layer of polystyrene foam. There is an opinion that even the boarding can be left as a finishing touch - but in this case the wood will need to be processed additionally. Hydro-wind protection of the walls is also installed under the boards.

You must take into account the following: it is not recommended to finish the frame with boards - without rough, preliminary covering with OSB boards. Otherwise, there is a risk that the boards will come loose in the fall or spring. In addition, this is important for the spatial rigidity of the frame.

You will get fewer joints due to the area of OSB sheets - which cannot be said about working with other materials. OSB finishing is usually made with a material whose thickness is 11-13 mm.

Let's take a closer look:

The OSB boards are fastened to the racks so that there is a joint in the middle. And there should be a small gap between the plates - three to five millimeters is enough;
The sheet completely covers the lower trim;
The top frame is closely related to the number of storeys of the house. It will be completely hidden - and the edge of the OSB slab will be aligned with the edge of the trim if the structure has only one floor;
When the building consists of two floors, the sheet is positioned as follows: it must fit onto the racks of both floors at once. But somewhere in the middle of the sheet the top trim overlaps. This condition cannot be called mandatory, but if it is met, the rigidity of the structure increases noticeably, which benefits the structure;
Sheathing with OSB boards when fastening to window opening V two-story houses, should be produced in a single sheet - this is exactly what the professionals advise. Then all the joints can be moved to adjacent racks outside the racks of the opening. They simply cut through the slab window hole– there is nothing complicated in such work;
When horizontal or vertical jumpers are made in the frame, a very convenient joining of the slabs is obtained. In the event that these jumpers have the same cross-section as the racks - and this often happens;
Spiral nails are selected for fastening. Self-tapping screws are also suitable - 0.5 or 0.45 cm long. You should also not refuse combined fasteners (both nails and self-tapping screws) - such a solution is considered to be of very high quality.

Remember that basic rules for performing fastening work must be observed.

Namely:

It is customary to fix the finishing of OSB slabs in intermediate areas every 300 mm;
After 150 mm, fix the places where the slabs are joined;
After 100 mm it is necessary to sew the outer edge.

To prevent cracks in the material due to too zealous fastening, a distance of 1 cm is maintained from the edge of the slab to the place of fixation (a little less is possible).

A gap of 4-5 millimeters is left between the plates so that they do not warp. The fasteners are driven 4-5 cm into the rack;
Part OSB boards, which is vulnerable (one might say, this is the “Achilles heel” of the finishing material) – the ends. To ensure the protection of these areas, gaps are provided, which are called expansion gaps (between the crown beam and the upper edge, also between the foundation wall and the lower edge). Here the gap will be 10 mm. And between those slabs where there is no tongue-groove, 3 mm is quite enough;
To seal these expansion gaps, apply a sealant to acrylic base. It is important that it carefully fills all the cavities - and that this work is done evenly;
Wind protection, waterproofing - all these tasks will be performed by a superdiffusion membrane, which also has the property of vapor permeability (this indicator is 750 g/m² or more).

Craftsmen do not recommend using polyethylene, various films, glassine. It’s just that these materials have a low level of vapor permeability; all excess moisture must be reliably ventilated.

Also, you should know:

The superdiffusion membrane is installed depending on the rough lining with materials, what it is fine finishing. For example, the membrane is often attached closely to the insulation - to the frame studs;
They make a sheathing (here they use wooden slats, the cross-section of which is 2 by 5 or 3 by 5 cm. Thanks to this design, it will be achieved required clearance. Then you can finish the surface with OSB boards, SML, DSP or sheathe it with boards;
From the inside of the room, you can use film to create a vapor barrier for the walls. The material is installed in such a way that it fits tightly enough to the insulation. A construction stapler is used for fastening. The joints are overlapped - 150-200 mm; the joints must be taped.

For such work, you can choose the simplest adhesive tape - there is no need to use construction material. Vapor barrier adhesive tape will also work.

To perform a vapor barrier, you can use foiled polyethylene, which will not thicken the wall thermal insulation (basic). Foam material is also often used for this task - this practice is common in our time.

Finishing the structure inside

Which is better: OSB sheathing or plasterboard cladding? Many are clearly inclined to favor option number one - when it comes to interior finishing work in the house. It is quite difficult to keep the frame posts in a completely level state - when work is underway, the same applies to drywall.

It’s just that the sheets of this material are softer when compared with osb boards. They will easily repeat all the irregularities - so then you will have to work hard to get a completely flat surface - more layers will need to be applied to level them.

OSB board is an order of magnitude stiffer in structure than plasterboard sheets, so all flaws can be smoothed out to a certain extent. Afterwards they begin to carry out work related to finishing.

Watch a video about how OSB boards are used for interior decoration premises. This material will definitely be useful if you do not have much construction experience.

OSB-3 boards and roofing work

Roofing work is very popular way for the use of materials such as OSB boards. By the way, to cover the roof with OSB-3 slabs, a material thickness of 0.18 cm is sufficient.

In order:

Products can have both a locking edge and a straight edge. The first option is more preferable;
The distance between the load-bearing beams should not be more than 609 mm - this applies to both the organization of sloping and flat roofs;
Are slabs capable of expanding? great importance. For each linear meter It is customary to leave a gap: 2 mm is quite enough (believe me, this is enough);
When laying slabs with smooth edges, the gap is made a little larger - 3 mm. Leave it around the perimeter of each slab - this is the only way to achieve optimal results;
Nails are used to attach OSB to the roof. Attached to supporting supports. There should be a distance between them: 10 cm or even more;
The finishing of OSB boards is attached with nails - they should have a length that exceeds the thickness of the board by two to two and a half times (or even more) - this is quite normal.

If the interior decoration is done using OSB panels, the following can be noted: a slab made of polished panels will look better if it is very important in your space appearance. It is better not to use such slabs for finishing. ceramic tiles or wallpaper - this is what the manufacturers themselves recommend. And it’s best to listen to their opinion!

The façade is business card any country house. Despite the huge selection of modern and proven facade finishing options, users of our portal are not afraid to experiment.

Interesting experience FORUMHOUSE member with nickname Victor Banev, who decided to ennoble old dacha, making a facade from OSB (or OSB, oriented strand board) with further imitation of the layout of half-timbered wood.

Durability of OSB

Usually, everyone who decides to do something like this is primarily concerned with the question - what will happen to the facade in 3-5 years if it is sheathed with OSB.

Some people think that the slabs will swell, because... OSB is not finishing material, intended for use on the “street”. Some people believe that this cladding option is possible and, moreover, optimal from the point of view of reducing financial costs and the possibility of independent repetition.

Victor Banev User FORUMHOUSE

Whether or not to use OSB on the facade - opinions vary. I decided that the game was worth the candle in terms of speed, ease of installation and low cost such a facade. I just note that the facade is made ofOSB is an economical option for thrifty summer residents. To decorate a permanent structure - a cottage - more weather-resistant materials should be used.

Looking ahead, let's say that the service life of the facade made of OSB boards has already entered its third year, and what it looks like is clearly demonstrated in the following photo.

Pie wall with OSB

The result is impressive, and now let's move on to practice. There is an old uninsulated dacha measuring 6x8 meters. External skin- “inch” board. On top of the boards is painted hardboard. Place of alteration - Leningrad region, i.e. area with more high humidity than Moscow, with frequent rains, fogs and short summers.

What is required is to insulate the building from the outside and make a beautiful façade. The budget is minimal. This means: work without hired workers, using relatively inexpensive materials and technology that can be done by two people. The user’s train of thought when choosing methods for finishing the facade is also interesting.

Victor Banev

I don't like finishing the facade with siding. It's boring. Block house is too expensive. The well-proven option of using CSP (cement particle board) for further painting and imitation of half-timbering is also eliminated. Expensive and, due to their heavy weight, difficult to lift the sheets, much less mount them at a height. Sheathing it with clapboard is also not the same. But I, as they say, fell in love with half-timbered wood and began to think about how to bring this idea to life.

After going through several options, the user decided to make the façade he liked so much as a half-timbered structure based on OSB boards. This, according to the user, is much cheaper and easier than fiddling with the DSP.

Pie wall based on OSB

As a result, the user came to such a “patty” of the wall. From inside to outside:

drywall;
wall;
insulation – mineral wool, laid in 2 layers, with a total thickness of 100 mm;
wind- and moisture-proof membrane;
counter-lattice;
OSB 3 boards with imitation of half-timbered layout.

Since total savings are at the forefront, the first thing the user of our site did was Victor Banev, I virtually laid out the slabs on the walls to minimize cutting and waste.

Moreover, sheet dimensionsOSB dictate the location of the decorative layout from boards (25x100 mm), which cover the joints of the slabs and imitate half-timbered timber.

After several intermediate layout options, we managed to come to a common denominator. A sheet measuring 224x122 cm, placed vertically, almost completely covers the wall, and overlays (boards) are needed only to protect the vertical joints of the slabs. We'll tell you how to estimate the layout (having taken all the necessary dimensions from the facade in advance) using the example of the left wall of the house.

If you look at the picture above, you will notice that 2 whole sheets of OSB are placed vertically on the left and right. Based on the results of wall measurements, it turned out that the distance (remaining gap) in the middle is wider than one sheet, but narrower than two. Those. - we need to sheathe the wall with two pieces laid horizontally, and then close the resulting horizontal seam. To maintain symmetry and the overall design of the layout, we add horizontal strips to the outermost OSB sheets and proceed in a similar manner along the entire perimeter of the building.

The layout of the slabs and boards that cover the joints depends on the size of the house, and each case should be considered and calculated individually.

Installation of slabs

Having dealt with the layout design, we move on to installing the slabs. The work is simple, but there are a number of nuances. First of all, let's not forget that curtain façade requires good ventilation to exit excess moisture. If we neglect the main ventilation ducts, (gap) with an exit in the upper part of the facade, then the moisture will be locked inside, behind the OSB boards, which do not allow steam to pass through well, and with a large thickness are practically vapor-tight. Hence - a bunch of problems in the form of mold and waterlogging of the insulation.

The user is left with a gap at the top of the façade, approximately 1.5 cm across the entire width of the panel.

We proceed directly to the installation of OSB. The thickness of the slabs in this version is 9 mm. This is quite enough, because the sheets practically do not carry any force load. First, on the walls, outside, we stuff a frame - a lathing made of vertically placed wooden blocks with a cross-section of 50x50 mm.

We lay mineral wool insulation between them, by surprise.

Next, we stuff the horizontal sheathing and, accordingly, lay the insulation (the so-called cross insulation), orienting it horizontally. Thus, the joints of the plates overlap. Then we attach vapor-permeable moisture-proof membrane, with obligatory overlap and gluing of joints with tape (double-sided).

Then we fill vertical bars 30x40 mm for fastening OSB sheets.

Victor Banev

The installation step of the bars is 0.4 m, i.e. it turns out: 3 vertical strips per 1 sheet. The OSB was secured with self-tapping screws, 6 pieces each. for 1 block. A gap of 2-3 mm was left between the sheets. Next, the gap was carefully painted over, although I think this is not necessary, because... from direct contact with rain or dew, the ends of the slabs will be protected by wooden plates 100 mm wide.

In addition to insulation, the windows of the house were replaced, for which they were moved forward on frames made of 5x15 cm boards.

Once the sheathing was completed, we began painting the assembled walls.

Before painting, one additional layer of universal bioprotective moisture-resistant impregnation, based on varnish, was applied to the surface of the slabs. Application was carried out on 2 sides.

Next, the slabs, before installation on the walls (this makes it easier and faster to work), were covered with two layers of acrylic facade paint. At the coverage stage, the user made one mistake, which will be discussed below, but for now we suggest looking at what happened at this stage. According to the user, the result exceeded all expectations.

If you move 1.5-2 meters away from the facade, you get the impression that the walls are finished with plaster, and it is impossible to understand from the street that this is a facade made of OSB boards.

In addition to the decor, instead of the old porch, they erected summer veranda in the shape of the letter L from timber 15x15 cm.

After this we moved on to finishing– installation of half-timbered layout. The planed layout board has different lengths. Somewhere - 2, somewhere - 3 meters.

Diagonal jibs, 2.5 m each, are made from one solid board.

The boards are attached at the edges with self-tapping screws. The result is a strong, hermetically sealed connection that does not allow moisture to enter.

For contrast, the boards were painted dark brown.

Three years of operation of the facade confirmed the correctness of the technology. The OSB boards at the ends have not swollen, the paint has not peeled off, and the quality of the façade is consistently high. The only point mentioned above: due to an error made at the installation stage (several slabs “forgot” to be treated with bioprotection), the outside of the OSB was covered with fungus, which in some places protruded from under the paint.

The slabs treated with protection were not affected by mold. This error turned out to be easy to fix. The cladding was removed and painted again (for safety, with an antiseptic additive). A year later, the fungus did not appear. What happened in the end Victor Banev, show the following photos.

Andrey Pavlovets FORUMHOUSE Member

The facade has been in use for 10 years. I went over the DSP boards with water-based emulsion 2 times, and that’s it, since then I haven’t touched up anything in all this time. The paint holds up just fine. I did everything myself. Sawing DSP size 1200x3600x10 mm for squares with a side of 1200 mm. Otherwise you won't be able to lift it. The most difficult thing is to make the upper corner outer elements. To sheathe, you had to climb up a ladder; if you made a mistake with a cut, you had to go down and cut again. I drilled holes for the screws in advance, then attached them with fasteners and, using a system of blocks, lifted them up. It's difficult, but it's worth it.

Users of the portal will find useful articles that tell, and.

Good afternoon
We are building frame house, it is covered with OSB boards, there is a roof - corrugated sheets, it will go into winter in this form. During the summer, after several rains, the OSB delaminated in some places. Is it possible to cover the walls with windproof film for the future ventilated façade for the winter and will it not lose its properties by spring? And what material is better to take: Izospan A, AD? The facade will be a blockhouse.

It is possible to cover an unprotected façade with windproof film, but this will not fully solve the problem of preserving OSB. The fact is that the windproof membrane is designed to withstand the impact of individual drops, which are the result of condensation on the roofing. Good slanting rain, downpour, wet snow is beyond its power, the windproof membrane will “cry” with inside. Undoubtedly, wind protection will reduce the wetting of the OSB, but will not completely eliminate it.

A windproof membrane is a good thing when it is covered with exterior finishing

OSB-3 boards, which will most likely cover the frame of your house, can only be called moisture resistant with a stretch. And then we can talk about their resistance to moisture only in relation to chipboard, fiberboard, OSB-1 and OSB-2, which quickly deteriorate under the influence of water. OSB-3 is not intended for use as fencing wall material without subsequent finishing, unlike, for example, cement-bonded particle boards (CSB). By the way, in Canada and the USA, where they came to us from frame technologies, for finishing decent houses that should last a long time, they use waterproof plywood, particle boards are the lot of the poorest.

Manufacturers provide such characteristics as the degree of swelling of an oriented strand panel when placed in water for 24 hours. For OSB-3 it is 15%. This is not so little, contrary to the claims of sellers and manufacturers. Of course, on the walls the particle boards are in a vertical position and are only exposed to slanting rain on one side. However, let’s assume that there are showers, sleet, and humidity for a week or two. Low air temperatures and the absence of sun do not allow the walls to dry.

Unprotected from precipitation OSB sheets properly soaked and swollen. At the same time, they will increase not only in thickness, but also in length and width, albeit not so significantly. As a result, the particle boards, rigidly fixed to the frame, will warp. And it is not a fact that when they dry they will return to their original shape; residual deformations are very likely. In addition, the fastening points will weaken, delamination of the ends may occur (it has already begun for you), and the strength of the gluing will decrease. It is unlikely that particle boards will not suffer critical damage in one season, but their service life will be shortened and the overall stability of the frame will decrease, that’s a fact.

OSB is not a completely waterproof material; it will inevitably deteriorate if exposed to moisture for a long time.

In our opinion, the following options are possible for temporary protection of an unfinished facade from precipitation:

Stretch the windproof membrane Izospan A (18 RUR/m2) over the vertical sheathing, use a block 4-5 cm thick. The film is quite weak, it is not a fact that it will successfully survive the winter and will not be torn by the winds.
Use Izospan AM (24 rubles/m2) or Izospan AS (35 rubles/m2). Three-layer wind protection is stronger, less permeable to water vapor, but three times more water-resistant, which means it will get wet less. Under the finishing (blockhouse) it could be stretched without lathing, directly over the slabs. But in your case, a ventilated gap and sheathing are needed. It is necessary to ensure free flow of air, the gap should be at the bottom and at the top, under the roof. Option #2 is preferable.
Stretching any cheaper vapor-waterproofing material over the sheathing while maintaining ventilation: roofing felt, reinforced construction vapor barrier, thick polyethylene film for greenhouses (enough for one season). When covering the facade, the waterproofing will have to be removed.

While there is no finishing, polyethylene film, with or without reinforcement, can be used as temporary protection

The right decision would still be to tighten up with finances and finish the exterior finishing by the fall, covering the façade with a blockhouse along a vertical sheathing. In the end, it will be cheaper, because the OSB boards themselves can serve as wind protection if they are carefully fitted. You won't have to spend money on film.

Correct solution « puff pastry» frame wall. If the OSB boards fit well and the insulation is completely closed, they will also serve as wind insulation. There is no need to spend money on an additional membrane.

Today OSB panels are so popular that they are often used in repairs and construction for both interior and exterior finishing. Of course with the right approach, it is even possible to paint OSB, or plaster on OSB, stick wallpaper, but all this is not very reliable, and the result will even be expensive. If you try hard, you can even lay tiles on this material, but how long it all lasts may depend on many factors, and such finishing is not at all applicable for exterior work.

Therefore, many are wondering how to cover the outside of OSB so that it lasts a long time, does not rot, and is not expensive. In our instructions you will learn this, familiarize yourself with necessary tools, and most importantly, how to do it all correctly.

How to sheathe OSB outside the house

If your house façade is made of OSB, you absolutely cannot leave it that way. After all, atmospheric phenomena - rain, snow, temperature changes will very quickly render the material unusable. Therefore, if the OSB is laid correctly, which means that the seams are left at least 3 mm, and the OSB itself is impregnated on all sides with good antiseptic impregnation. You can already come close to the question of how to sheathe the outside of the house with OSB.

Siding.

This is most likely the cheapest and fastest option for cladding the outside of a house with OSB panels. There is a wide variety of this material - which can imitate timber, boards, wild stone, brick, slate and much more. And the ease of its installation allows you to even cover the outside of the house with OSB yourself.

The choice can only fall on him because of his positive characteristics:

Siding is easy to install.
It does not require additional processing - painting, impregnation, etc.
The material does not require special care.
Does not change color from direct sunlight.
Easily withstands both plus and minus temperatures.
Long service life.
The material is fire safe and environmentally friendly.

And this may not even be all of its positive aspects.

But let's start with the installation. To cover the outside of OSB with siding, you must first secure the slats to the house. This additional step seems unnecessary, because at first glance, vinyl panels will easily attach to OSB without a grid. But we strictly assure you that you cannot do this.

The siding should be attached only to the sheathing, so that there is a space of 2-3 centimeters between it and the OSB. This will allow not only your wall to breathe, but also moisture to escape.

Those who did not use the correct method of installing siding very much regret it, just a year or two and the wall under the siding begins to rot and become overgrown with mold. And you have to remove everything, repair the wall and then re-attach the cladding, but this time to the sheathing.

Ideal for lathing wooden slats which are mounted vertically on the wall. If you are not going to insulate the walls, then their thickness should be between two and three centimeters - ideally the size of the slats should be 60x30mm or 60x40mm. Attaching such a lathing (which is also called ventilated façade slats) to an OSB panel is as simple as that; for this purpose, self-tapping screws of the appropriate length are used. Good screwdriver will help you do this job without special effort. Of course, if you tighten the screws with a regular screwdriver, you will simply get tired and waste a lot of time.

If you don’t have a screwdriver, be sure to buy one; you don’t even need to buy an expensive battery-powered version of the tool. You can also purchase one that works from the network; such a tool will come in handy more than once around the house.

The distance between the slats depends on the type of siding, but in most cases 60 centimeters is suitable.

Don’t forget to treat the sheathing with an antiseptic before installation, this will extend its service life and the screws will hold it tighter.

Siding installation always begins with finishing the exterior and internal corners building.

To ensure secure fastening, strips are applied silicone sealant, and then install and screw the elements to the sheathing.

Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the middle of the oblong mounting holes.

When all the corners are mounted, we need to install the starting profile. It is attached at the very bottom, and we first need to determine its size so that it fits freely between corner elements. Cut in in the right place The easiest way is with a grinder.

When attaching the lower profile and the siding itself, the screws also need to be tightened in the middle of the oblong holes, but they should not be clamped all the way. This is done so that during the process of temperature changes, the material may move slightly, and a loosely screwed screw in this case allows it to do this.

At the end of the installation of each element, you should check whether the siding element can move and whether any tightly screwed screws are preventing it.

Their installation is very simple:

measure right size material
Using straight-cut scissors or a grinder, cut off the required pieces.
Use a screwdriver and self-tapping screws to attach it to the sheathing in the right place.

When this procedure is completed, you need to close the front board; for this you can use a metal chamfer or a J-profile.

Even before installing the main siding panels, you need to trim the door and window openings. For this, a window profile is used.

Only after this can the house be sheathed with the main sheets of siding. If you choose the right material and do everything according to the instructions, your home will undoubtedly shine with beauty.

Other options for OSB cladding outside the house

Of course, you can cover the outside of the house with OSB not only with siding, but it is the most common and economical option.

Since OSB is afraid of moisture, it is best for you to choose options from ventilated facades (ventilated facade), they allow the wall to always remain dry.

You can cover the outside of the house with OSB even with your own hands using ventilated facades; installing them is not very difficult, but the cost can be steep. Beautiful options the finishes look like brick.

There may also be a facade made of stone or granite.

How to cover OSB inside a house

If simple options finishes are not suitable for you - varnish, paint, plaster, wallpaper, then you can approach this issue creatively and sheathe the inside of the house with OSB plastic or wooden clapboard . Undoubtedly, this material is quickly installed and creates Beautiful design rooms.

But no matter what you use to finish the OSB panels, the surface should be carefully prepared. If you cover the panels with clapboard, you just need to apply an antiseptic. This will protect the material from various fungi and mold.

They don't look bad either cork wallpaper in the interior, but unfortunately they are expensive.

Wall decoration imitation timber inside the house is also not a bad option. Attaches quickly and creates an impression wooden house. And since in essence it is natural wood, then the effect will be significant - you will even feel the natural smell of this material.

If you are a third-party natural, then you can finish it blockhouse inside the house, it won’t look bad either. Of course, one room cannot be decorated with such materials; this option is only suitable for the entire house.

You can also cover the walls artificial stone . A rather inexpensive material - it is made from gypsum; to save money, you can make such material yourself.

Well, if you want to get classic walls, the correct option is to sheathe OSB plasterboard, and only then plaster and paint.

As you can see, you can sheathe OSB inside the house various materials, the main thing is to approach this issue creatively.