How to treat gladioli bulbs before planting? Diseases of gladioli and their treatment: photos of characteristic symptoms

Gladiolus (also called "swordweed") is a vibrant and beautiful member of the iris family. The flower is a long stem, on which there are many graceful flowers, with oblong elongated leaves. The bulbous plant can have different pleasant colors: red, pink, peach, white, yellow, purple. U bulbous plant the telling name - "gladiolus" comes from Latin word, which translates as “sword,” and in Russian the word was adapted and called a shazhnik (that is, an epee, a weapon almost similar to a sword). The flower really looks a bit like a sharp and long sword or sword. Due to the beauty of the plant, many gardeners grow it on their plots, if you also want to do this, you can use step by step instructions planting gladioli in open ground in the spring.

Dates for planting gladiolus in spring

So, you have firmly decided that you want to plant a wonderful plant in your dacha or plot of a private house, but you probably have a question - when? better in spring plant plant bulbs ? The optimal time for planting gladiolus bulbs is at the end of April-May.. First of all, you need to focus on weather conditions: the soil in the garden should warm up to 10 degrees Celsius at a depth of ten centimeters! And you must also be sure that late frosts will not return.

Due to weather and climatic conditions in different regions In Russia, landing times are different:

On South ( Krasnodar region(Kuban), North Caucasus) - You can plant at the end of April.
In the middle zone (including the Moscow region) — optimal time falls in early or mid-May.
In Siberia, the Urals, in Leningrad region — It is better to plant gladiolus bulbs in the middle or end of May.

By the way, thanks to the many years of experience of flower growers, a folk wisdom has emerged - you can plant fennel bulbs at the moment when the birch leaves are the size of a 5-kopeck coin.

Is it possible to plant gladioli for the winter? You can’t plant bulbs in the fall, otherwise they will freeze and you will not only not see the flowering, but you will also destroy planting material. You can plant gladioli in the fall only in very southern regions and under cover, or you can plant the children in a shell for the winter, but more on that below. And remember that bulbs die at sub-zero temperatures.

Step-by-step instructions for planting gladiolus in open ground

The landing procedure is a complex event, including several important procedures. Of course, it will take a little work to ensure that the event is carried out correctly and brings the result in the form of beautiful flowering. But all your efforts and expenses will pay off when you admire the beautiful flowers.

Bulb selection

All flower growers, summer residents and gardeners know one simple and true rule at all times - the success of growing a plant depends on the quality of planting material. Therefore, the choice of gladiolus bulbs must be taken responsibly. It is recommended to buy planting material from specialized sales points or online stores that have a good reputation. But it’s better, of course, to choose the bulbs in person to immediately assess the quality.

Specimens must be healthy, shiny, not wrinkled, and free of signs of disease and pests.
They should not be too large, flat, or with an excessively concave bottom (more than one centimeter). Otherwise, you should refuse to buy such bulbs, because they most likely have already bloomed several times.
The optimal dimensions of the bulb are: diameter - from two to four centimeters, bottom - three to seven millimeters.
If you buy planting material in April, before planting, then the root tubercles are most likely formed and have a light shade (if they brown tint, then you shouldn’t choose them).
You need to choose bulbs with one good, strong central sprout. Most likely they haven't bloomed yet. Material with three or more sprouts should be discarded.

Video: how to choose high-quality gladiolus bulbs.

Selection of location and soil

Choice suitable place on which the plant will be comfortable is one of the most important elements successful landing. Gladiolus prefers places and soils that meet these characteristics:

The place is sunny, open, well protected from cold winds and drafts.
An area with partial shade is allowed, but this applies more to hot, southern regions.
It is recommended to choose planting sites where garlic, onions, strawberries, legumes.
It is highly recommended to avoid wetlands, waterlogged areas, and areas with high groundwater levels.
You should not plant flowers in the area where they grew previously. This will prevent soil depletion and plant diseases.
Most best option- loamy or sandy loam soil with weak soil acidity.
The soil on the site should be well drained.

Important! For successful growing and beautiful, lush flowering, it is necessary to change the planting location of gladioli on the site every year. If this is not possible, then replant the fence at least once every two or three years.

Preparing the site before planting

Preparing the site and soil is no less important than planting itself. It is recommended to divide the preparation into 2 stages: the first stage in the fall, and the second in the spring, immediately before the procedure.

In order to properly prepare the site for the event, the following manipulations should be performed in the fall:

Dig the soil to a depth of 50 centimeters in the fall.
If the soil on the site is clayey, then you need to add sand to it.
And if the soil is sandy, then add clay.
If the soil is heavy, humus, compost, or moss should be mixed into it.
It is recommended to enter phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. But if your site has very fertile soil, then you don’t need to apply fertilizer.

But in the spring, just before planting, you need to prepare the site as follows:

Before planting gladioli bulbs, re-dig the soil to a depth of 30 centimeters. It is recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizer.
Remove any remaining weed rhizomes.
Level and loosen the soil with a rake.
If after precipitation there are puddles on the site that do not dissolve for more than four hours, then it is advisable to high bed. Her optimal height- ten centimeters above the surface of the earth.
Before boarding spill the soil with a solution of the drug “Fitosporin”.

Preparing bulbs before planting

Preparing gladioli bulbs for planting in the spring is very important for the successful growth of the plant. It should begin to be produced two or three weeks before the event. After winter, it is recommended to prepare gladioli according to a certain scheme.

Video: preparing and processing gladioli bulbs before planting in spring.

Buy planting material or remove it from a storage location (refrigerator, cellar). Clean the bulbs from dry covering scales, which are located on the surface of the material.

In the photo the bulbs are still covered with covering scales:

And here is the process of cleaning them:

Important! Under no circumstances should you peel the bulbs for the winter, otherwise there is a big risk that they will not survive the winter; you need to do this before planting!

Carefully inspect the planting material. It should not show any damage or signs of disease. The surface should be shiny, smooth, healthy. There should be root tubercles on the bottom- root primordia and very small roots that have begun to grow (they are shown in the photo below).

There should also be one or two shoots that have started to grow.

There are 2 sprouts in this photo:

And here the bulbs have 1 sprout:

Note! If the bulbs are very dry, softened, covered with mold or ulcers, then it is better to throw them away!

If there are two sprouts on the bulb, it is better to leave one so that the flower is stronger. To do this, gently break out the sprout and treat the area with brilliant green, wood ash or crushed activated carbon. Although this is not necessary.

What to do if you find affected bulbs with traces of the disease? Don’t hesitate to throw them away if you notice small signs of diseases, for example, fusarium, scab, which manifest themselves in the form brown spots. The problem can be solved by simply cutting off the affected areas sharp knife. And then you need to treat these places on the bulbs with green paint and wood ash.

Advice! But still, it is better to plant the affected gladiolus bulbs in a separate bed to definitely eliminate the risk of infection healthy plants.

The photo shows the bulbs after removing the infected areas and treated with brilliant green:

Then you need to germinate the gladiolus bulbs. Dl When sprouting, place the bulbs sprouts up and leave them in a dry, warm and bright placee. At the same time, they must be protected from direct contact sun rays.

For planting material ready for planting, the sprout should have a length of one to 10 centimeters, and the root tubercle should be no more than three millimeters. If sprouts and roots do not appear during germination, then the skewer bulb is not suitable for cultivation.

Before spring planting need to be produced treatment of gladioli bulbs from diseases and pests. For these purposes soak the planting material in a solution of the drug “Fitosporin”, “Fundazol” Soaking time - 30 minutes. Or you can disinfect it in solution potassium permanganate(1 gram of substance per bucket of water), soak for 1 or 2 hours. Afterwards the bulbs need to be dried.

After disinfection, it is recommended to carry out The final stage preparing gladioli bulbs for planting - soaking in growth stimulator for 10 hours. You can use the drug “Sodium Humate”, “Kornevin” or “Immunocytophyte”.

Advice! If you have a favorite and rare variety of fennel and you want to propagate, you can carefully cut the bulb into two parts with a sharp blade, which you have previously disinfected. The cut areas on the corms should be treated with brilliant green or wood ash. But such manipulation can only be carried out if there are two or more growth points.

Video: how to properly process bulbs.

Preparing children

The preparation of gladiolus babies before spring planting is done in almost the same way, with the exception of some features. The baby needs to be peeled the day before planting., otherwise it will dry out. In the photo there are cleaned babies:

But you can plant the baby gladiolus directly in the shell, nothing bad will happen, it will just take a little longer to germinate. In the photo there are uncleaned children:

In order to remove the baby's shell, you need to gently press it with two fingers until you hear a characteristic sound, and then remove the shell with your fingernail.

Important! If signs of disease, black spots, drying out are detected, you need to burn the baby so that it does not infect healthy specimens.

You also need to disinfect them. If you remove the shell, then treat the children in a weaker solution of drugs and it is advisable to do this for 20 minutes.

Direct planting of bulbs

Skewer can be planted either in individual holes or in a common trench. The depth of the planting hole (whether it is a trench or a hole) should be based on the size of the gladiolus bulb. To understand at what depth the skewer should be planted, you need to perform a simple arithmetic operation: the diameter of the bulb is multiplied by three, for example, if the diameter of the planting material is 4 centimeters, then the planting depth is 12 centimeters. Therefore, if you are making a trench for planting, it is convenient to plant a batch of the same size to immediately make the right depth.

To plant gladiolus bulbs, you need to make indentations according to the following diagram:

trench: the distance between the bulbs is 15-20 centimeters, the gap between the trenches is 30-40 centimeters.
holes: the distance between the pits is 15-20 centimeters, and the distance between the rows is 25-30 centimeters.

It is recommended to pour sand at the bottom of the hole or trench, which after planting will protect tender roots and bulbs or children. It is enough to pour a layer of sand 2 centimeters thick. And after you place the planting material at the bottom, you need to pour a little sand on top again, and then soil.

Many experienced flower growers They share their wisdom - if you plant gladiolus deeper, the flowering will be more beautiful and lush, and if it is closer to the surface of the earth, there will be more children.

It is not recommended to carry outplanting gladioli at a depth of less than 7 centimeters, and more than 15. If you plant it too deep, the bulb will develop poorly and may not germinate, and if it is planted too close to the surface, this can cause private diseases. And also in clayey or wetland areas it is better to plant to a depth of about 7-9 cm, and in black soil and sandy areas it is possible to plant up to 15 cm (but again, the depth must be calculated based on the diameter of the bulb).

Produce correct landing Gladiolus in spring can be done as follows:

It is necessary to water the garden bed thoroughly.
After the water has been absorbed, the gladiolus bulbs should be arranged according to the recommended pattern. The corm sprouts should face up and the bottom down.
We first fill the bulbs with sand, and then fill the holes or trenches with earth.
After planting gladiolus, you need to mulch the bed, for example, sawdust, humus, peat.

Video: rules and scheme for planting gladiolus bulbs in spring.

Planting children

If you decide to plant a gladiolus baby in a shell, then a good idea would be to plant before winter, namely, late autumn, in the beginning of November. Stratification will have a beneficial effect on the plant; due to exposure to cold, the shell of the baby will break, they will become stronger, more resilient and strong.

Gladiolus children can also be planted in a trench or hole. The depth is calculated in the same way as when planting bulbs. Children's planting scheme: the distance between them is 5 centimeters, and between the rows is 15 centimeters. The approximate planting depth for baby gladiolus is 3-5 centimeters.

Video: how to properly plant gladiolus babies.

How to care for gladiolus after planting

All flower growers know the importance proper care for flowers after planting in open ground and subsequently. Gladiolus is, of course, no exception. Caring for swordsmen is not difficult; it is enough to follow the standard measures described below:

Watering. Gladioli need generous watering, so this should be done once every 5-10 days, the water should penetrate to a depth of 3 centimeters. Watering rate for gladioli is 10-15 liters of water per square meter landing The soil in the flower garden should not be allowed to dry out. It is advisable to water with slightly warm water evening time. It is necessary to carefully monitor the humidity during the formation of the peduncle (this moment occurs when the 3-4th leaf appears). Moisture should not get on the leaves of the plant. To water gladiolus, it is advisable to make special grooves and pour water into them.
Loosening and hilling the soil. The procedure is important element correct nogo care, it improves air exchange in the soil and helps retain moisture. You need to loosen the soil after watering.
Weed removal. Do not allow weeds to grow; regularly check the area in the garden where the fennel grows, and if weeds appear, immediately eliminate them along with the rhizome.
Pest and disease control. Invasion of pests and diseases can have a very negative impact on the health and beauty of the plant. Therefore, skewer should be treated for preventive purposes to prevent the harmful effects of unwanted garden guests. For diseases, it is enough to treat with a fungicidal drug 2 or 3 times during the summer, for example, the drug “Hom”, “Oxychom”, copper sulfate. If you find signs of the disease, then you urgently need to remove the diseased specimen from the flower garden to avoid further infection. And against pests you also need to treat it 2 or 3 times with an insecticidal preparation, for example, the drug “Aktellik”, “Karbofos”. In addition to these drugs, you can protect gladioli from pests using infusions of yarrow, tobacco, and celandine.

Video: pest control against thrips on gladioli.

Top dressing. If your site has fertile soil, and if you regularly fertilize, then you don’t have to feed the gladioli. In other cases, it is advisable to fertilize according to the following scheme: in May and June - potassium and nitrogen fertilizers, in June - phosphorus, potash, nitrogen, and in August - potassium and phosphorus. Fertilizers should be applied along with watering.

Video: feeding gladioli.

Garter to support. Fixing to support pegs will protect gladioli from strong winds and bad weather.

How to properly dig up bulbs in the fall for winter storage

Gladiolus bulbs should be dug up for storage. 4 or 6 weeks after flowering. The excavation time is approximately mid-September. But regardless of the type of sword and weather conditions, Gladioli should be harvested no later than mid-October.

The following step-by-step instructions will help you properly dig up gladiolus bulbs before storing:

Dig up the bulbs, do it as carefully as possible so as not to damage them.
Using gentle movements, shake off the soil from the planting material and separate the children.
Rinse the bulbs in running water; a colander will come to the rescue in this matter. You can also wash it in a bucket of water.
Then you need to remove the old bottom of the onion, it will no longer be useful. If the bulb is not ripe, it is recommended to separate the bottom after you dry the bulbs.
Now you need to carefully tear off the roots along with the stumps.
Rinse the planting material again.
Then the treatment should be carried out in a solution of a fungicidal drug. For example, you can use a solution of the drug Maxim - 4 ml diluted in two liters of water. Keep the bulbs in the solution for 15 minutes.
After 15 minutes, you need to remove the bulbs with gloves from the solution and remove the stems of the plant.

Video: how to properly dig and store gladiolus bulbs.

How to properly store planting material until spring

After you have completed the preparation of the bulbs, they should be stored at home until planting. But before that you should dry it thoroughly!

Transfer the gladiolus bulbs to a warm place with good ventilation and air circulation, the air temperature in the room should be +25 °C. Leave them there for two weeks.

Advice! It is recommended to sort planting material by size and eliminate diseased and damaged specimens. Children of gladioli should be stored separately until planting. This will make it easier to prepare for planting in the new summer season.

After you have completely dried the bulbs, they should be moved for permanent winter storage in a cool, dark place. For example, basement, cellar, refrigerator, etc. The necessary conditions for storing gladiolus bulbs in winter: temperature +4-6 °C, and humidity - 65 or 70 percent.

At the wrong temperature, the bulbs may sprout as early as last month winter. In this case, it is necessary to remove shoots that are more than five centimeters a month before planting in open ground.

Video: how to properly store gladiolus bulbs at home before planting.

Gladioli are flowers that have a delicate and majestic beauty. There is no area in the world where graceful plants looked bad. Flower growers who have at least once tried to plant a plant are very fond of the sword. Try it too!

When to clean gladioli bulbs from old scales

Gladioli can be considered one of the most difficult to grow flower crops. To obtain healthy plants with abundant flowering you need to know a lot important nuances, spend enough time, put in a lot of work, and not only in the spring, but throughout the year. However, the result is worth it - it’s hard to take your eyes off these plants of the iris family, they are so good!

Novice gardeners usually have a lot of questions - when to dig, how to properly dry, how to store, and when to clean gladioli bulbs from old scales. Let's try to understand these important points together.

Gladiolus (or in other words - sword) is a perennial corm plant. Despite the abundance of varieties (and there are about five thousand of them!), the plants are not winter-hardy. When the soil freezes to an average temperature of –10’C (ten degrees below zero), the corms die. Therefore, digging in the autumn months (mainly September and October) is mandatory. Then you should dry it and decide when to clean the gladioli bulbs. Then all that remains is to sort and ensure the right conditions storage until planting.

Digging, drying and autumn cleaning

A month (maximum - one and a half) after the end of flowering, you should dig up the bulbs. In most regions of Russia, this procedure occurs in the third ten days of September. For this, it is better to choose dry weather. Harvesting begins with early and medium varieties, as well as lavender-blue and dark-colored ones. Digging late varieties and gladioli grown from children can be produced 50 days after the corms ripen.

First, they need to be cleaned of dirt and the stems trimmed (approximately 10 cm in height). Drying can be done different ways. For example, tie them in bunches and hang them under the roof, where there is good air movement, but at the same time there is protection from precipitation and exposure to direct sunlight. It is equally convenient to place the corms in special boxes with a mesh bottom or simply on a smooth and dry (no wet fabrics!) surface. Immediately sort diseased plants into a separate container and then burn them to prevent infection of healthy ones.

Drying must be done with the utmost care, because moisture under the scales will ultimately lead to bacterial or fungal diseases, which will cause death.

When to clean gladioli? If all conditions for drying are met correctly, then you can begin this procedure 30 days after digging. Therefore, the approximate time is the third ten days of October. For cleaning, it is better to use a well-sharpened knife. It is necessary to remove the upper scales and eliminate the old brown corms directly from the roots in order to prevent the process of rotting and infection of the entire plant from starting. In this case, small baby tubers need to be separated for independent planting. next year. To protect gladioli from thrips, you should cut off the stems, leaving stumps 5-10 mm high. After this, you need to treat the tubers with a solution of potassium permanganate (for 10 liters of water, it is enough to take 5-10 grams of potassium permanganate) for 20-30 minutes, spread them on gauze and leave them to dry thoroughly for another week.

Storage conditions

The most optimal place for storing corms - a dry and clean basement, with air humidity of about 60% and good ventilation. The temperature in it should not fall below –2 degrees. The best temperature regime in this case - from +3 to +8 (maximum +10) degrees. It is extremely undesirable for gladioli bulbs to be adjacent to vegetables during storage, because the latter release moisture, resulting in the process of rotting. Thus, mold may appear on the gladioli and the planting material will be spoiled.

However, not all flower growers have a cellar, so you have to look for other options. One of the best alternatives is a refrigerator. Here it is only important to observe the above temperature regime and not allow it to exceed +10 degrees. As a rule, more low temperature in the refrigerator on the shelf closest to the freezer.

If you don't have space in the refrigerator, you can store the corms in the closet. The main thing is that the batteries are as far away as possible and the temperature is as low as possible.

Can be used for storage wooden box or a cardboard box, which should be placed, again, in the coolest possible place. In this case, each corm needs to be wrapped in a sheet of newspaper or a napkin, just paper. To protect gladioli from pests at this time, you can place cotton pads soaked in iodine between the wrapped bulbs. Or cloves of garlic, and first chop them coarsely.

Another option is storage glassed balcony or loggias. Here you need to take care that the corms do not freeze. To do this, prepare an appropriate container from any thermal insulation material. It, in turn, should be installed on boards or any surface other than the floor. If necessary (if temperatures drop), cover the container with a blanket or old clothes.

At least once a month it is necessary to check the condition of the planting material and discard diseased corms.

When to clean gladioli bulbs in spring

In April, you can remove the bulbs from containers, newspaper rolls, or take them out of the cellar for vernalization. You need to put them in a clean and dry place. carton boxes, preferably in one layer. About 20-25 days before planting, the corms should be kept in a room with low humidity at a temperature of 20-25 degrees. More heat is dangerous because it can begin to become intensified and completely unnecessary in this moment root growth.

The answer to the question - when to clean gladioli bulbs before planting - depends directly on the planting material. Adult bulbs can be cleaned literally immediately after removal from storage, or 1.5-2 weeks before planting. Medium-sized children - in a week, and very small ones (up to 0.7 cm in size) in a day, so that they do not have time to dry out.

It is best to clean gladioli bulbs from covering scales in the spring using a knife, tweezers and small sharp scissors. This must be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage the sprouts.

How to prepare gladioli for planting

So, the selected and cleaned planting material needs to be laid out on dry cardboard in one (maximum two) layer. Within 3-4 weeks of germination, sprouts up to 10 cm in size and root tubercles approximately 1-3 mm in size should form. If this does not happen for some of the bulbs, it is better not to plant them.

For prevention against fungus, thrips and various diseases you can soak the corms in a solution of potassium permanganate (0.3%) for 60 minutes or use foundationazole (0.3% solution) for 30-40 minutes. Both as a preventive measure and in the case of bulbs already damaged by thrips, you should prepare a garlic solution for soaking for two hours. To do this, you need to dilute either 50 grams in 1 liter of water. garlic pulp, or 100 gr. squeezed garlic juice.

However, even if the corms are prepared according to all the rules, they can be ruined by untimely planting. There is no need to rush into this activity; you need to wait until the soil warms up to +10, or even better, +15 degrees. Standard time for planting gladioli in middle lane Russia - second ten days of May. At the same time, you need to carefully monitor the weather and meteorological forecasts so as not to ruin the bulbs after so much work on their processing and storage.

When fighting gladioli diseases, the main thing is prevention, prevention and prevention.

It is easier to prevent a disease than to fight it later. The spread of diseases is facilitated by improper agricultural practices and ignorance of the basics of plant protection. Most gladioli diseases are spread by fungal spores. In case of dense plantings and unfavorable weather conditions diseases can affect all plantings within a few days. Feeding mineral fertilizers can influence the development of diseases both positively and negatively. Excessive concentration of salts in the soil causes damage to root hairs. Pathogens easily penetrate through dead tissue.

During flowering, it is dangerous to overfeed gladioli with nitrogen fertilizers, since this increases the intercellular spaces in the root tissues, which also facilitates the penetration of fungi and bacteria into the plant. In autumn, when there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil, plant growth continues for a long time, which reduces the quality of the corms.

Potassium increases plant resistance not only to diseases, but also to bad weather, and copper, manganese and zinc also contribute to this. It must be remembered that nitrogen reduces the absorption of copper, and phosphorus reduces the absorption of copper, zinc and boron. Therefore, simultaneously with fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, copper fertilizers must also be given. Due to the low need for phosphorus and its negative effect on the digestibility of many microelements, you should not get carried away with phosphorus fertilizers.

There are agrotechnical, chemical and physical methods fight against diseases.

Agrotechnical methods

Crop rotation greatly contributes to soil health. For example, in front of gladioli it is useful to grow marigolds, calendula, nasturtium, mustard, and parsley.

By purchasing new corms, you can introduce any disease into your area. Therefore, it is necessary to provide for quarantine and disinfection measures. Corms must be carefully inspected before planting and only healthy ones should be planted; the rest should be destroyed.

Preventive soaking of planting material in a 0.05% solution copper sulfate or a strong solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes before planting helps remove pathogens from its surface.

Landing at optimal timing increases plant resistance to diseases. If planting is delayed until the soil temperature rises to +10C, root development is delayed, and due to nutrient reserves in the corm, increased leaf growth begins. As a result, plant oppression may occur and they are more easily affected by diseases.

Removing weeds, loosening and watering have great importance for prevention. Weeds not only deplete the soil, but also serve as reservoirs of infection. Loosening helps destroy the mycelium and improve air access to the roots. Lack of moisture weakens root system, and gladioli are more susceptible to disease.

Timely fertilizing increases the protective properties of plants. The timing of digging up gladioli also affects the number of diseased plants per plant. next year. The later the harvesting is done, the more diseased planting material there is.

Children for planting should be taken only from strong, healthy plants, in which case the variety will constantly improve.

Chemical method

To disinfect planting material, soil and spray plants, substances that are toxic to pathogens and pests are used.

Chemical treatment is also carried out for prophylaxis, assuming that pathogens may appear under these conditions. The toxic drug will destroy the spores before they penetrate the plant tissue.

To disinfect the soil during autumn digging, it is watered with a 2% solution of copper sulfate or a 1-3% solution of tiazone at the rate of 10 liters per 1 m2.

Before planting, the corms are soaked for 15 hours in warm solution complete mineral fertilizers with microelements 20 g per 10 l, (but not more often than once every 3 years), and then for disinfection for 30 minutes in a dark cherry solution of potassium permanganate or in a solution of copper sulfate (5 g per 10 l) or better for 18 hours in a solution of thiourea (CS(NH2)2 - thiocarbonic acid diamide, thiocarbamide) - 5 g per 1 liter. Even diseased corms soaked in a thiourea solution are cured.

Karbofos is used for preventive spraying against pests, starting from the end of June at intervals of 1-2 weeks, only 2-3 times per season (20 grams per 10 liters of water). If there are peonies in the garden, then they are treated with the same solution, since thrips moves from one crop to another.

For preventive and therapeutic spraying, starting from mid-June, spray with a solution of copper oxychloride (5-10 g per 10 l) and treat the plants every 4-5 days at least 3 times in a row.

To combat thrips, spraying with garlic infusion (100-200 g per 10 l) is also used.

Physical method

The physical method consists of heat treatment of the corms immediately after digging.

Dirty corms should be washed, the baby should be separated, and the roots and stems should be trimmed. Pour over the corms hot water, temperature + 55C exactly according to the thermometer. After 5 minutes, drain the water and fill it with hot water (+55C) for another 10 minutes. Then drain the hot water and refill immediately cold water 10-12C, replacing it 3-4 times or flow.

A sharp temperature change helps to cure corms from fusarium, rot, scab, and has a detrimental effect on nematodes and thrips. Pour the treated corms with a strong solution of potassium permanganate (2 grams per 1 liter) for 30 minutes. After this, dry the corms for 2-3 days at elevated temperatures and ventilation, and then 30 days at a temperature of 20-25C.

The most dangerous diseases gladioli

Signs: Dark spots quickly spread across the corms of gladioli. When they are cut, blackened vessels are observed inside. Diseased bulbs grow slowly. The plant develops very poorly, and its leaves quickly turn yellow and dry out. The roots on the corms die and the flower dies.

Control measures: We plant gladioli in their old place after 4 - 5 years. We regularly mulch and drain the soil. We stop fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Dry the dug out flower bulbs thoroughly. Before sending for storage, immerse them for 5 minutes. into water (50 - 55 degrees), and then dry the planting material well.

In the spring, before planting in the ground, we treat it with 0.2% foundationazole. In autumn, we treat the soil with 3% metham (carbation). The consumption of this product is 5 l/1 sq. m.

2. Septoria, botrytiosis, dry and penicella rot

Signs: These fungal diseases affect all parts of the plant. Spots of different colors appear on the leaves of gladioli. The bulbs of diseased plants also change. All of the above fungal diseases, most often affect flowers in rainy and cold weather. Heavily dense plantings are also susceptible to them. It provokes the development of fungal diseases and the introduction of excess amounts of nitrogen-containing fertilizers and organic matter into the soil. All of the above diseases of gladioli are easily transmitted through contaminated soil.

Control measures: We dig up and destroy diseased flower specimens. We disinfect storage and containers for bulbs with 5% copper sulfate or 4% formaldehyde. Before sending for storage, we dry the planting material well. Before planting in flower beds, gladioli are treated with 0.2% foundationazole. As the plants grow, we spray them with 0.5% copper oxychloride.

3. Mosaic

Signs: pale green spots appear on the leaves of gladioli different sizes, and the flower petals become variegated.

Control measures: affected by such viral disease We burn specimens of flowers.

4. Scab

Signs: dark-colored sores are visible on the gladiolus corm.

Control measures: We use the same means that are intended for the treatment of fungal diseases.

Among the most common pests of this type of flowers, the following are especially dangerous:

1. Gladiolus thrips

A small insect (1 - 1.5 mm) almost black. Its light-colored larvae feed on plant juices. These insects attack bulbs in storage areas where the air temperature exceeds 10 degrees. In hot weather they breed in huge quantities. When the temperature drops environment pests move to the lower parts of the gladiolus.

Signs: the bulb acquires a “burnt” (rough) surface, silvery spots form on the plant tissues and the buds curl. At first, the bulbs become covered with a sticky coating and lighten, but by spring they become dark and wrinkled. A sign of the vital activity of thrips are yellow streaks (rupture of gladiolus tissue when insect eggs are laid) and dark dots (waste products). From damage, flowers wither, lose their color and die.

Control measures: if the number of pests is very large, we cut off the plant stems early. We burn all affected gladioli and dig up the soil. We disinfect the corms by immersing them in water (50 degrees) for 5 minutes and spraying them with a 0.4% solution of karbofos. The treated planting material is dried and stored, sprinkled with chalk. We periodically look through it and remove the affected corms. When thrips are detected, we place the planting material in paper bags. In a large bag with 1 kg of gladioli bulbs we put 15 pcs. naphthalene tablets and leave them there for 1.5 months. We ventilate the disinfected bulbs and store them until spring, like the rest of the planting material.

Before planting, all bulbs of plants suspected of being infested with pests are rejected and destroyed. We pickle the corms with 0.2% foundationazole and 0.2% karbofos. During the growth of flowers, we treat them with 0.2% karbofos every decade. We plant these flowers in the same place only after 4 - 5 years. To prevent the appearance of thrips, we plant tagetes or calendula in flower beds with gladioli.

Signs: diseased plants noticeably lag behind in development. The stems and leaves of flowers turn yellow and wither. Most often, the onion mite attacks onions that have not been cleared of old roots and scales. This insect is 1 mm in size and pale - yellow color lives on the remains of vegetation, and penetrates the bulb through its bottom. During storage of gladioli planting material, brownish dust appears on it. Affected bulbs rot and dry out, turning into rotten remains. When planting material infected with pests is planted into the soil, it and other bulbous flowers become infected.

Control measures: During the development of gladioli, we discard specimens with yellow leaves, and spray the rest with 10% karbofos. After digging up the flowers, we destroy all remnants of vegetation. For 3 - 4 years, we do not place gladioli on mite-infested areas of the ground. We send the corms, thoroughly cleaned of scales and roots, for storage. We immerse them in water (50C) for 5 minutes, and then disinfect them in a 0.5% karbofos solution.

These are the larvae of all click beetles (Elateridae). Wireworms can be distinguished from other insect larval species by their tough bodies. They usually reach 1-4 cm in length.

The wireworm gnaws out the middle of the gladiolus shoots if there is not enough moisture in the soil for it, in which case the plants die. If there is a lot of wheatgrass on the site, then there will most likely be a lot of wireworms too. The wireworm loves to feed on wheatgrass rhizomes.

You cannot plant gladioli after perennial plantings strawberries, where many click beetles and their larvae accumulate.

Promotes the reproduction of wireworms on the site a large number of weeds, so they need to be removed, as well as deeply loosen the soil.

IN different places In the area near the gladioli, cut potatoes, carrots, and beets are laid out as bait, and the larvae bite into them. Periodically, the bait is removed and the wireworm is destroyed.

Also, to prevent wireworms, metaphos powder is added to the soil (5-8 g per 1 m2).

Fighting wireworm

Today there are no chemical means of controlling wireworms; there are preventive measures. You can list the following measures, they help reduce the number of wireworms:

Digging up the soil in late autumn, before the first frost.
Remove weeds, especially wheatgrass and fireweed.
To reduce the acidity of the soil - add coal ash, mineral fertilizers, and slaked lime.
The soil needs to be loosened. It is convenient to loosen potatoes between rows.
Apply mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, ammonia water).
When digging the soil, destroy worms, pupae and beetles.
Liming the soil helps. While digging, add lime, egg shells, chalk, etc.
Make bait for larvae.
Increase the content of nitrogen compounds in the soil. You can plant legumes. It’s not for nothing that potatoes are often planted together with beans - this helps.
When planting potatoes, shed holes or grooves with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water, 0.5 liters of water per hole).
It helps to add dry onion peels to each tuber when planting - an old folk method.
In the fall, spread straw or manure in heaps around the area. With the first frost, burn these piles.

To destroy wireworms there is a drug called Bazudin.

Bait crops of oats, corn, and barley can help. Soak the seeds in an insecticidal solution. We sow two weeks before sowing potatoes or together with potatoes, between the rows. Plants from soaked in special means solutions give poisoned seedlings, the worms die from eating them.

If you have a lot of jars, you can try this method. In 0.5 liter glass jars we put pieces of chopped raw potatoes(a little, to the bottom of the jars) and bury them in an area in a shady place up to the neck. For one hundred square meters you need to bury about 10 cans. Then periodically (every 2-3 days) we go and collect beetles and put in fresh bait. You can keep the jars all summer long - adult click beetles are well caught in them.

To catch the larvae, put pieces of chopped potatoes on sticks and bury them in the ground (depth 10-15 cm). The ends of the sticks remain above the ground so that the bait can be found. Every couple of days we dig up the baits, collect the larvae from them, and bury them again.

Experienced gardeners advise treating gladioli before planting, as these flowers often get sick and have reduced stamina. Treatment can be carried out not only with insecticides and fungicides (preparations against insects and fungal diseases), but also with mineral fertilizers, as well as growth stimulants. When planting prepared bulbs, the condition of the soil is taken into account, most favorable time year and the proximity of the flower to other crops.

Description of the plant

Gladioli are amazingly beautiful and bright plants, which continue to bloom until early autumn. Translated from Latin, gladiolus means "sword". It received this name because of its appearance. And the people called it the sword, because the leaves of the flower have a long and sharp shape.

Gladioli come in regular and double varieties and have many colors and shades depending on the variety.

When choosing a place to plant gladioli, they give preference sunny areas. This will provide them good flowering and prevent the development of diseases.

You cannot plant gladioli where asters used to grow. These flowers are susceptible to fusarium and can infect the ground for several years.

You should not plant gladioli in an area where root crops previously grew, due to the presence of wireworms in the soil. Neighborhood with cruciferous vegetables is also not recommended due to thrips.

Preparations for treatment

Carefully selected planting material is soaked in a solution of one of the following preparations:

Drug name	Active substance	Diseases it is used to combat	Preparation
	25 g/l fludioxonil	Diseases caused by fungi from the classes Ascomycetes, Basidiomycetes and imperfect fungi	The drug is ready for use, available in 5 liter packages
Fundazol	Benomyl, 500 g/kg	Powdery mildew, root and bulb rot, spotting, seed mold, fusarium	Prepare a solution: 5 g per 1 liter of water
Potassium permangantsovka	Potassium permanganate	Has a wide spectrum of action, but relatively low efficiency	To prepare a 1% solution, 1 g of the substance is dissolved in 100 ml of water, to prepare a 2% solution - 2 g in 100 ml of water (preferably treated with 2% solution)
Bordeaux mixture	A solution of copper sulfate in lime milk	An effective broad-spectrum antifungal drug	Preparation of a 1% preparation: quench 100 g of lime in a small amount of water and add 5 liters of water. In another container hot water dissolve 100 g of copper sulfate. 5 liters of water are also added to this solution. Then the second solution is combined with the first with constant stirring. As a result, copper sulfate compounds are formed
Copper oxychloride	Copper oxychloride	Late blight, brown spot, macrosporiosis, scab, false powdery mildew, rust	4 g per 1 liter of water In one of the solutions described above, gladiolus bulbs must be soaked for several hours.

Soaking in potassium permanganate

To destroy pests, insecticides are used:

You can also use other insecticides. The simplest option: put the gladioli tubers in a tight plastic bag and pour Dichlorvos into it, then tie the bag tightly for about 30 minutes.

Before planting gladioli bulbs for the winter, they also need to be treated to avoid infection with thrips and viral infections. To do this, the tubers are dipped into a container with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. At the same time, you can check the quality of the material: all defective children will emerge. Their further storage and cultivation is useless.

In order to stimulate plant growth and increase the quality and quantity of buds, tubers are soaked in a solution of microelements. The following drugs can be used:

1. MicroMix. Nutrient Content:

nitrogen – 11%;
phosphorus - 11.0%;
potassium – 30%;
magnesium – 4%;
boron - 0.042%;
iron - 0.054%;
manganese - 0.042%;
zinc - 0.014%;
copper - 0.01%;
molybdenum - 0.004%.

2. Cytovit. Composition (g/l):

nitrogen – 30;
phosphorus - 5;
potassium – 25;
magnesium – 10;
sulfur – 40;
iron – 35;
manganese – 30;
boron – 8;
zinc – 6;
copper – 6;
molybdenum – 4;
cobalt – 2.

3. Homeflower. The main active ingredient is hydroxycinnamic acid (0.05 g/l).

You can prepare your own mixture from boric acid, zinc sulfate, potassium permanganate, copper sulfate, magnesium sulfate and ammonium molybdate. The processing time for the bulbs lasts from 6 to 12 hours.

Additionally, the material for planting should be treated with root formation stimulants, such as:

Kornevin is a biostimulant for plants (indolylbutyric acid 5 g/kg). The active substance, when it gets on the plant, irritates the integumentary tissue and stimulates the appearance of callus (living cells that form on the surface of the wound) and roots. Getting into the soil, it forms a root stimulant - heteroauxin. Kornevin acts more slowly than heteroauxin, but lasts longer.
Epin is an artificial biostimulant with anti-stress effect. In addition to accelerating plant growth, it activates them protective functions in the fight against diseases. Increases flowering time. Can be used for both soaking and spraying.
Cornerost (analogue of heteroauxin).
Zircon is not a fertilizer in the literal sense of the word: it is a biologically active additive with useful minerals that helps accelerate plant growth.
Humic acids. A mixture of high molecular weight organic compounds, formed during the decomposition of plants and subsequent humification. They are found in peat, coal, and some soils.

The treatment time with the above drugs varies from 30 minutes to 3 hours. It can be combined with pest control treatment. It is also possible to simultaneously soak in a solution with microelements - for this, the water for preparing mixtures must be slightly acidified with amber or citric acid, since in an alkaline environment the effectiveness of the root formation stimulator will significantly decrease.

Preparing the bulbs

The preparation of the bulbs is divided into several stages:

material selection;
cleaning from dry scales;
treatment with anti-disease treatments;
feeding with nutrients;
germination.

In the spring, a month before planting, you need to check the condition of the tubers. The most promising bulbs for flowering and reproduction are those with a diameter of 2-4 cm, not wrinkled, without brown spots.

It is best to choose a bulb with one powerful sprout - such gladioli produce large babies and bloom profusely.

If, during inspection of the planting material, tubers with bacterial and fungal diseases, as well as with brown spots, were found, it is recommended to discard them.

The affected areas on the bulbs of a valuable variety are removed with a knife, then the cut is treated with a fungicide, charcoal or brilliant green.

After all treatments, preparation ends. The tubers are placed in trays or boxes in one or two layers and left in a warm and bright room to speed up the germination process. Basically, germination at home lasts from 1 to 2 weeks.

Gladiolus is an attractive flower that can decorate any interior. garden plot. True, not all gardeners decide to grow it, since planting material requires special attention and care. Difficulties arise from the need to remove flower bulbs from the ground every year before frost. Gladioli should be stored after digging at a temperature of 5-10 degrees Celsius.

Plant characteristics

Other The popular name for gladiolus is sword. This is a corm perennial belongs to the iris family, there are more than 180 varieties. In Russia, the most popular is the hybrid gladiolus. Its leaves are hard, tall and straight, meeting at the bottom. They wrap around the plant stem on both sides. The inflorescences of the fennel are spike-shaped, reaching a length of up to 1 meter. The stem of the plant is single and tall.

Skewer bulbs are round, slightly flattened, and covered in scales. Their color varies, from light yellow to dark burgundy. Gladioli can be grown both in greenhouses and in open ground. They look great as cut flowers and in flower beds.

Timing for digging fencing

Before the bulbs are sent for storage, they are dried. This procedure helps prevent the development of roots. Then the tubers are wrapped in paper, the bundles are put into a plastic bag with pre-made holes. Flowers must be checked once every 30 days. Damp or rotten corms must be removed from the bundle. They are dried and wrapped in new paper, after which they are put back in the refrigerator.

It is forbidden to store gladioli in the freezer, because they will spoil in it. The tubers should be constantly ventilated so that they do not become moldy due to lack of oxygen and high humidity. If planting material is affected by rot, it should be thrown away immediately. All these tips will help preserve your gladiolus bulbs until spring.