How to treat wooden floor beams from rotting. Do-it-yourself wooden floor beams. Selection of materials and calculation of parameters. Installation. Strengthening the attic flooring

What are lags?
Pros and cons of installing logs
Linear dimensions of wooden beams
Calculation of individual log parameters
Tips for installing joists

Among modern materials for arrangement flooring wooden floors occupy one of the leading places. As a rule, they are mounted on logs, which are an element load-bearing structure Houses. Their correct installation directly affects the reliability of the floor surface and its service life.

Beams located longitudinally and transversely on a rough foundation in a room are called joists. Boards are attached to them to form a wooden floor. To make logs, dry, first-class wood is used, which must be tarred, treated with antiseptic and fire retardants, as well as compounds against damage to the material by rodents and insects.

The logs shown in the photo perform the following functions:

a flat floor surface is created and the load on the foundation is correctly redistributed;
between the rough base and the reverse side floor board an air gap is formed;
the space between them can be filled with sound and heat insulating materials, which leads to a decrease in noise pollution and reduces heat loss;
Thanks to their installation, it is possible to quickly replace a floor covering element that has become unusable.

If the floor joists are calculated and installed correctly, the wooden floor will last for many years.

Pros and cons of installing logs

There are a number of advantages to installing flooring on joists:

In the space between them you can fit not only thermal insulation materials, but also wires and pipes of engineering systems.
The cost of the bars is low, and any home craftsman can install them if desired.
The supporting structure of them is capable of withstanding a 5-ton load per “square”.
Often, if it is necessary to restore the floor, it is enough to repair the joists. In this case, there is no need to re-lay the floor covering.
The load on the building's floor is less than during construction cement screed, since the structure weighs little.
Thanks to the use of bars, you can bring the location of the floor plane to any height.
After the structure is installed, carry out additional work not required.
The installation of flooring products begins immediately.

A floor mounted on joists also has disadvantages:

The height of the room is reduced by several centimeters.
Labor-intensive technology for performing work. Structural elements are difficult to mark and install.

Linear dimensions of wooden beams

The width and length of the floor joists are their main parameters, which are taken into account when choosing material for the construction of a wooden frame:

Definition of width. In the process installation work rectangular bars are laid on the edge in order to impart the required rigidity to the wooden structure. At the same time, when making floor logs, the size of the timber should be as follows: the width is 2 times less than the height.

Length Determination. This parameter is directly dependent on the area of the base. True, when choosing floor joists, the size is determined taking into account the technological gaps, since the distance between the beams and the wall should be about 5 centimeters.

Gaps are necessary to prevent significant deformation of the structure in the event of thermal expansion of wood. Maximum length logs without support, depending on the direction of installation of the floor, should correspond to either the width or length of the room.

Since the thickness of the logs for a wooden floor directly depends on the size of the spans between the supports, hence there is a direct relationship between the pitch of the logs and the thickness of the beam. This means that the thicker the block, the wider the step.

Calculation of individual log parameters

To calculate floor joists, their main parameters are taken into account. At the same time, you need to remember that they should be located 1.5-2 times higher than the installation height of the flooring - otherwise hammered nail will not be able to hold the floorboards.

When calculating the lag, then with a 50-millimeter board thickness, the height of the bars should be 100 millimeters (read also: “What thickness of floorboard is suitable for the floor”). If the rough flooring is made of plywood or other sheet materials 20 millimeters thick, you can use lower bars (30-40 millimeters).

Manufacture wooden joists necessary from wood coniferous species, while the humidity of the workpieces cannot exceed 20%. The cross-section of the floor joist should be rectangular. To cut them, take boards with a thickness of 50-60 millimeters.

Prepared logs should be laid in increments of 40-70 centimeters across the light flow coming from the windows. If the dimensions of the rooms and the laying pitch are known, it will be easy to calculate the floor joists and the number of required elements. Before installation, wooden blocks should be treated twice with an antiseptic, which can be replaced with hot bitumen.

When choosing the height of the log, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is taken into account. Typically, the materials chosen for insulation are: mineral wool, produced in slabs whose thickness is 5 centimeters. The size of the log for a wooden floor should be similar to the height.

When laying thermal insulation in two layers, a 100 mm joist height will be required. The installation step directly depends on the thickness of the material used to lay the subfloor. The thinner the flooring, the more often you need to install logs. For example, if 12 mm plywood is used for the substrate under the finished floor, then the laying step should be about 30 centimeters.

Typically, the subfloor is created from tongue-and-groove boards - spruce, fir or pine. They are not used for finishing flooring, since coniferous wood is soft - women's heels leave marks on its surface. A floor made of laminate or other material is installed on top finishing. With a lag pitch of 50 centimeters, the recommended thickness of the boards is at least 35 millimeters.

As a rule, the distance between the bars is calculated taking into account the thickness of the flooring. For example, with such board parameters as 20, 24, 30.50 millimeters, the gap should accordingly be 300, 400, 500, 1000 millimeters.

Lags are made not only from wood. They are also made from reinforced concrete, metal and various polymers. They have the highest strength reinforced concrete products, which are usually used during construction country house. Logs made from other materials are used when repairing floors.

When the basis for arranging the floor is chosen wooden beams, the logs are secured with self-tapping screws. The size of the fastening elements must be 2 times greater than the thickness of the bars. The advantage of this method is that to adjust the height of the lags, no additional special pads are required.

Begin laying the bars from the opposite walls, retreating 20-30 centimeters from them.

To control the horizontal installation, use a level. A fishing line or nylon thread is pulled between the bars.

Announcement

According to it, the remaining logs are installed.

When making calculations, one should not forget that they reduce the height of the rooms by at least 10 centimeters.

Elements of the subfloor (sheets or boards) must be attached to each of the joists.

Instead of timber with a certain cross-sectional size, you can use boards connected in pairs, which reach the desired diameter.

In the presence of concrete base The logs are attached to it with galvanized metal corners, to fix which dowels and screws are used. Corners are sometimes replaced with U-shaped devices.

If necessary, to achieve the required log length, wooden blocks connect with each other. Under the place where they connect, they mount reliable support, which could be, for example, brick pillar. To build it, dig a hole 10 cm deep, fill it with sand and water it on top. A layer of polyethylene is laid on top of the sand cushion and placed on it cement-sand mixture. After this, columns are built from red brick.

How and with what to treat old wooden floor beams?

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Please advise how and with what you can treat the old wooden beams of the existing floor, they are a little rotten in some places to a small depth and in some places you can see holes, like from a shashel.

What is the best way to treat the ends of wooden floor beams?

There are special remedies for wood-boring beetles. But treating all beams with them is expensive, time-consuming and tedious, and the result is in question. From folk ways It may be advisable to cover it with drying oil or waste oil. The calculation here is that the fat closes the pores in the tree, and the whole shashel suffocates inside in its burrows and passages.

Treat the wood sandpaper and cover with a water-soluble antiseptic. You can inject additional antiseptic into the grooves left by the bugs and seal them with something plastic, such as wax. You can also use bitumen mastic, it protects the wood from moisture and is also an antiseptic.

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The installation of an attic significantly increases the living space of the house. In practice, another usable floor appears in the house. But for its full use it is necessary to strengthen attic floor, since the loads on the structure increase significantly. First of all, this applies to wooden beams, most often used in the construction of private buildings.

Specifics of wooden floor beams

The popularity of using wooden purlins in attic floors is due to their light weight compared to steel and reinforced concrete counterparts. In addition, wood has low thermal conductivity and low sound permeability. But natural material, unfortunately, has a number of disadvantages that must be taken into account. This:

lack of resistance to mold, rodents and insects;
high fire hazard;
weak strength of beams of small cross-section.

The first two disadvantages can be dealt with by treating wooden beams with antiseptics and fire retardants. The latter problem is solved by using lumber of a larger cross-section or by strengthening the load-bearing elements of the floor.

Attic floor beams carry lower loads compared to similar interfloor structures.

When installing an attic, reinforcement of the load-bearing structures is required wooden elements ceilings

How to treat lags? Impregnations and antiseptics

If the measures are not taken, the purlins will begin to sag under increased load and become irrevocably deformed over time. This is in the best case, and in the worst case, they will crack and, as a result, break. But don’t despair and think that the much-desired increase in exploitable area will remain only in dreams. There are quite a lot of options for strengthening attic floors in order to choose only one correct solution, based on specific operating conditions.

When reinforcement is needed

It should be noted that it is necessary to strengthen beam structures not only when constructing an attic, but also for other good reasons. Namely, with a decrease load-bearing characteristics wooden beams due to poor condition wood resulting from:

incorrect calculations;
high humidity;
accidental damage;
vital activity of insect pests or rodents;
the appearance of unacceptable deflections;
cracking;
periodic exposure to temporary loads unforeseen by the design.

Professionals do not recommend postponing for long restoration work. Failure to resolve the problem in a timely manner can lead to dire consequences and even tragedy. To competently assess upcoming events, it would be wiser to invite a specialist.

Common ways to strengthen wooden beams

Diameter of logs or cross-section of timber for attic and interfloor covering selected taking into account the loads falling on square meter floor or ceiling area in plan. This takes into account:

span width;
pitch of wooden beams.

In the table below you can see optimal values sections of logs and lumber.

Strengthening the attic floor is carried out without changing or changing the operating conditions of the beam structure, using standard or non-standard solutions.

The choice depends on the degree of deformation of the wood and the specific requirements for enhancing the strength characteristics of the purlins and the flooring as a whole. The most common options for strengthening beams involve the use of:

wooden overlays;
metal plates;
rod prostheses;
carbon fiber, also called carbon fiber;
supports in the form of pillars.

Wooden overlays and metal plates can be installed both in the span of wooden beams and at their joints with the supporting wall. Reinforcing elements are fixed on both sides or bottom and top of the purlin being repaired. In this case, the linings are tightly tightened using bolts passed through the beams. Wooden parts pre-treated with antifungal compounds and fire retardants. Metal plates are painted or special agents are applied to their surface to prevent the material from rusting. In addition, the wood is separated from the metal by a layer of waterproofing.

To ensure the reliability of the beam structure, it is recommended to install overlays along the entire length of the girder.

End reinforcing elements are mounted in areas supported by walls. In this case, the rotten ends of the beam are cut off and the removed pieces are replaced:

double wooden overlays with liners installed at the level of the supporting part of the wall, corresponding to the thickness of the reinforced beam;
end metal prostheses made of channel;
metal strips with clamps;
reinforcing bars fastened with channel strapping.

The list can be continued in several more ways, including mobile prostheses, dual systems, etc., but they relate to more complex options strengthening beams. The end reinforcement has its own characteristic feature. It consists of providing temporary support for the beam being repaired using a pillar. After completion of the work it is dismantled.

Rod prostheses are a system consisting of metal clamps applied in several places of the damaged beam and connecting elements. The latter are made from durable steel profile or several reinforcing bars intertwined with each other according to the “triangle rule”. In this case, the system remains stable, without any spatial movements. The installation option for bar prostheses depends on the degree of required reinforcement of the beam floor.

Carbon fiber reinforcement refers to modern methods strengthening wooden beams. Composite material is not yet widely used, but the technology is undoubtedly an advanced method. Reinforcing reinforcement is placed on the bottom side of the purlin. Next, carbon fiber reinforced plastic is glued in several layers onto a partially reinforced beam, forming a trough-shaped clamp. The lightness of carbon fiber, ease of use and the absence of unesthetic overlays in the design are the undoubted advantages of the modern material.

In case of irreparable deformations, it would be better to remove the damaged section of the beam to avoid unnecessary costs.

A simple solution

Probably the most popular option should be the simplest option for strengthening the attic floor, namely, installing a pillar supporting the problem beam. This simple method solves the issue of accepting loads with a vertical support. The work, in this case, is reduced only to the installation of the pole. As a result, the main problem disappears, but two others appear in its place.

One drawback is the formation of a point load acting on the floor. The second is related to the aesthetic side of the issue. The fact is that a pole installed in the middle of the room will look ridiculous. But if you decorate it in an original way, the support can turn into interesting element decor, and also functional.

There is another way to strengthen the attic floor. But its use is effective only in cases where ceiling beams have no deformations.

The load-bearing capacity of the structure is increased by installing additional purlins with mandatory winding of their ends with roofing material. Protective measures avoid mechanical damage and help resist moisture.

Strengthening the attic flooring

If the beams are strengthened for the purpose of further constructing the attic, then you will still have to think about updating the flooring. Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to use OSP boards. They are laid according to subfloor. Subsequently, finishing work is carried out.

Re: Mixture for impregnation of wooden beams for ceiling...
Friends, I found information especially for you about do-it-yourself impregnations for wood processing: D
Wood is a flammable material. It is protected from fire by coating, painting, impregnation, and plastering. It is good to combine fire protection and antiseptic wood treatment. For these purposes, antiseptics are introduced into impregnating compositions. The most optimal conditions for impregnation of wood - wood humidity up to 25%, temperature of the impregnation composition - 70-80° C. For better processing wood, tattoos are made on its surface. When choosing a method of protecting a specific wood product, the conditions in which the product will be located (for example, wooden structures near stoves and pipes) are taken into account. In any case, with prolonged heating, the temperature of the wood should not exceed +50 ° C. For normally dried wood, the ignition temperature from an open flame is 270-290 ° C, and when heated without an open flame - 350-480 ° C, but if the wood is heated for a long time time (up to 24 hours in a row), then spontaneous combustion can occur even from a temperature of no more than 170 ° C. So, let’s consider in detail all types of protection of wood from fire and high temperatures.
Coating. Wood is coated with the following compounds until a protective layer of at least 2-3 mm is obtained. Clay-salt-water coating is prepared from clay, table salt and water. Ratio: clay - 74 parts, salt - 4 parts, water - everything else until a creamy mass is obtained. Usually applied in two layers. Second wood treatment: superphosphate coating, which is obtained from superphosphate and water in a ratio of 70 parts to 30. It is also applied, as a rule, in two layers, which give a 3 mm layer.
ATTENTION! When using this type of coating, you should remember that the prepared portion can be used for 6 hours, then it hardens. And since the first layer will also dry for at least 6 hours, the previously prepared coating will no longer be suitable. Therefore, for the second layer of coating, the material should be prepared no more than an hour before the first layer has completely dried. Sulphite-clay wood processing. The components of such coating are sulfite-alcohol stillage, clay and, of course, water in a ratio of 25:50:25.
Impregnation. Fireproof impregnation carried out with solutions of ammonium salts. Specifically, this is ammonium phosphate and its mixture with ammonium sulfate salts (ratio 3:7). If deep impregnation is planned, then the consumption of ammonium phosphate per 1 m3 of wood should be at least 50 kg. If the impregnation is carried out with a mixture of ammonium phosphate and ammonium sulfate, then the consumption (for deep processing) should be at least 75 kg per 1 m3 of wood (75 kg is the mass of dry salt). If only surface treatment of wood with the specified composition is carried out, then the treated wood can resist fire for no more than 10-15 minutes.
Plastering. The essence of this treatment is that a layer of plaster protects the wood from fire. The duration of protection depends on two reasons: the first is how tightly the plaster adheres to the surface of the wood, the second is the thickness of the applied layer. The plaster will lose its fire-fighting properties when the exposure to an open flame finishes burning the lime, which is part of the plaster. Specific example: if the plaster adheres tightly to the surface of the wood, the thickness of its layer is at least 30 mm, then when exposed to a flame at a temperature of 1000 ° C, the wood will be protected for at least 40-45 minutes. This is the time it will take for the fire to complete burning the lime and ignite the wood. Under similar conditions, but with a plaster layer thickness of up to 20 mm, the fire will reach the tree in 15-20 minutes. How to improve the protective properties of plaster. The protective properties of plaster will be significantly improved by applying it not to ordinary shingles, but to wire mesh or the same wooden slats, But T-section.
The use of Bishovit and Erlit preparations in wood processing. Preparations such as Bishovit and Erlit have proven themselves, after treatment with which wood does not ignite from an open flame with temperatures up to 500 ° C. But such treatment must be carried out in autoclaves.
Coloring. Have fire protection properties silicate paints, which include liquid glass and various fillers. When exposed to flame, such paints swell and prevent the fire from coming into contact with the wood. Such paints are usually reapplied every six months, as they gradually decompose, interacting with carbon dioxide. It's about about paints MHS, HL, PHVO, HL-SZH, HL-K, SK-L.

All photos from the article

Construction of private houses and country cottages They try to simplify it as much as possible, excluding the use of heavy construction equipment. To achieve this, many people abandon reinforced concrete floor slabs and replace them with wooden structures. We want to tell you how to install wooden floor beams with your own hands.

Wooden floors

Advantages and disadvantages

Usage wooden structures used mainly in private construction as basement, interfloor and attic floors. However, previously they were also used in multi-storey residential complexes, therefore, these designs are suitable for all types of houses.

Application in private construction is due to the presence of specific advantages, the most significant of which are:

The use of lumber makes the structures lightweight. As a result, the load on the walls and foundation is reduced, which significantly reduces the cost of the project;
Floors are assembled from individual beams and boards. This eliminates the use of cranes and other heavy equipment, which is also important for self-construction;
Installation of structures involves only dry processes, so the floors are ready to accept immediately design loads . In addition, this installation method does not introduce process moisture into the premises;
The wood is malleable and easy to work with, which means you won’t need expensive, complex tools and equipment;
Such floors are easy to repair, replace and reconstruct;
At independent execution work, the price of construction and materials will be much lower.

It should also be noted that, unlike reinforced concrete slabs, beam structures can be used in wooden and frame houses. In addition, carefully assembled and processed wood floors can be used in various retro and country interiors.

Of course, there are also disadvantages:

Wooden structures make a lot of noise. Even the use of sound insulation does not make them as silent as reinforced concrete slabs;
They become deformed due to sudden changes in humidity and temperature;
Susceptible to fungus, wood-eating insects, putrefactive bacteria;
Support combustion;
Not as strong as reinforced concrete.

Important!
With proper design and compliance with SNiP standards, as well as with the help of special processing and protection of materials, most of the shortcomings can be leveled out.

Selection of materials and calculation of their parameters

First, two outer beams are laid, which are aligned in the same plane using a spirit level or building level. Then the threads are pulled between them and the remaining parts are placed along them, laying them out with the same pitch within the range of 600 - 1500 mm.

IN panel houses It is allowed to use steel anchors, which at one end enter the mounting socket over its entire width, and at the other end the beam rests. Fix the parts using self-tapping screws.

IN brick walls they also make landing sockets with a length of at least 200 mm. The lower planes of the mounting holes must lie strictly at the same level; for this they are leveled cement mortar, and the width dimensions should exceed the width of the beam by 100 mm.

The ends of the boards are covered with bitumen and wrapped in a double layer of roofing material, then laid in nests to a length of at least 150 mm and concreted.

Entry points for stairs and passages chimneys and other obstacles are equipped with additional crossbars for supporting the beams. The distance from the boards to the chimney must be no less than 300 mm, and the boards themselves must be protected with asbestos cardboard or other insulator.

Important!
If the flooring of the roll will be made using a cut into the beam, such a cut must be taken into account in the calculations of the section.

Conclusion

Wooden floors are a good alternative reinforced concrete slabs in private construction. Their installation does not require the use of heavy equipment, and the work can be done with your own hands. The video in this article and our instructions will help you cope with laying beams.

Wood is one of the most common building materials in the world. It is widely used both for the construction of buildings and for interior decoration, thanks to strength, durability and excellent aesthetic characteristics. Since this is a natural material, it is susceptible to biodegradation under the influence of moisture and microorganisms, so it is important to prevent the putrefactive process. How and what is used to treat wood against rotting?

Causes of rotting

The main enemy of wood is fungus, which causes it to rot. “Contamination” can occur as a result of improper storage and transportation. Active reproduction of microorganisms provokes a whole set of accompanying factors:

High air humidity – up to 90%.
Stagnation of oxygen.
Exposure to moisture.
Temperature changes and freezing.
Prolonged contact with the soil.

Fungus on wood

Prevention of wood rotting

There are many preventive measures to prevent mold from appearing before construction begins. Since the moisture content of wood after felling varies from season to season, it must be dried under natural conditions for at least 1 year.

There are a number of methods to prevent biodegradation processes and the negative effects of moisture:

Waterproofing.
Coloring with special compounds.
Roof waterproofing.
Heat and vapor insulation.

The foundation for a wooden structure should always be located above ground level, and it is also necessary to equip a drainage system and blind area. Garden near the house with tall trees- a bad idea because they will interfere with natural drying.

Also, to prevent putrefactive processes, it is necessary to inspect the house every year. If signs of fungus are detected, the material should be sampled to determine its moisture content and density.

Preventive measures are important, since wood affected by the fungus has many physical indicators reduced: it becomes up to 30 times less hard, 3 times less dense. All this leads to distortion window openings, movement of walls, up to loosening of the structure.

Once biodegradation has begun, it can be contained using special means- both store-bought and popular.

Antiseptics

If mold has already appeared, its growth can be prevented using antiseptic agents. They suppress reproduction wooden surfaces microorganisms that cause rotting.

Today in the store there is usually a lot to choose from antiseptics

When choosing a specific product, you should pay attention to such indicators as possible harm to humans and animals, anti-corrosion properties and impact on the quality of wood.

All antiseptics are conventionally divided into 3 groups:

Water-soluble products.
Oily.
Pasty.

Water-soluble antiseptics

The most common impregnation is sodium fluoride. Its popularity is explained by a set of significant advantages:

high efficiency;
good penetrating ability;
no unpleasant odor.

Sodium fluoride does not impair the aesthetic properties of wood and does not cause corrosion of metal parts that come into contact with it. In order to protect wood from rotting, BBK-3 and GR-48 are also often used.

BBK-3 is a solution of borax and boric acid. It is relatively safe for people and animals, and also has excellent penetrating ability.

GR-48 is a drug based on pentachlorophenol. It protects the boards not only from the negative effects of moisture and biodegradation, but also from blue stains.

Often, products are used that contain several active ingredients– for example, CCC based on chromium and zinc chloride. However, this impregnation has 2 significant disadvantages: toxicity and possibility of staining wood.

Oily and pasty antiseptics

Oily antiseptics considered the strongest of their kind. They are used to protect wooden walls from the negative effects of moisture and soil. However, oily impregnation also has two serious disadvantages: sharp unpleasant smell and the ability to color wood dark brown.

Paste antiseptics consist of three main components:

Water-soluble antiseptic.
Filler.
Clay or bitumen as a binder.

Organically soluble antiseptics are products like PL containing pentachlorophenol and petroleum products. However, due to their high toxicity, they are rarely used.

The use of organically soluble antiseptics is justified for treating wood when exposed to moisture in order to avoid drying. When using these tools, you need to take care personal protection: gloves and respirator.

How to apply impregnation to wood

In order to treat wood with an antiseptic composition, different methods are used. Most effective way Immersion of the material in baths with the active substance is considered. The only disadvantage of the method is its high cost.

The second method is impregnation using autoclaves. This method is based on the influence high pressure, which promotes deep absorption of the composition into the material.

Often special pastes are applied to the boards - they have good penetrating ability and effectively protect the material from fungus. Antiseptic agents are often applied using rollers, brushes, or simply sprayed from a spray bottle.

Applying antiseptic with a brush or spray

It is always necessary to apply the composition to a dry surface that has not been coated with varnish or enamel, since in these cases the product will not be able to be absorbed.

The first step is to treat areas where rotting has already begun. Usually these are the ends of the building and sections. It is best to carry out the procedure at a temperature from +20 to +25. If the temperature drops below +5, treatment with an antiseptic will not work.

Folk remedies for impregnation

If the putrefactive process has not had time to grow significantly, folk remedies will help prevent further destruction of the tree:

Silicate glue.
Soda and vinegar.
Potassium dichromate solution.
Copper sulfate.
Resin.
Salt and boric acid.

The easiest way is to use silicate glue. It is necessary to dilute it with water, and apply the resulting solution to areas where biodegradation occurs. You can also treat the rotting areas with soda, and spray vinegar from a spray bottle on top.

Potassium dichromate is used by mixing in equal proportions with sulfuric acid. The resulting composition should be used to treat not only the boards on the street, but also up to 50 cm of the soil layer.

Another effective one improvised means to prevent wood rotting – copper sulfate. To prepare the composition, take 100 g of the substance per 10 liters of water.

For external processing You can use resin, as well as a mixture of 1 kg of salt and 50 g of boric acid, which are stirred in 5 liters of boiling water. This composition must be applied to the wood several times, waiting a couple of hours so that the product has time to be absorbed.

Processing using the Finnish method

The Finnish method is a special way of processing wood to protect it from moisture and rot. You will need a set of ingredients:

salt;
flour;
water;
slaked lime;
inkstone.

This composition stays on the material for a very long time without being washed off with water. Despite the safety of the method, it is recommended to use it only for the protective treatment of wood intended for fences and roofs.

The listed ingredients must be mixed to a consistency reminiscent of sour cream, and the main part of the mixture should be based on flour and water. After thorough mixing, the composition should be slightly warmed over low heat, and when it becomes warm, you need to quickly apply it to the boards.

After the first layer has dried, it is necessary to process the material again. If the composition has cooled down by this time, it will need to be heated again.

Comments:

In low-rise construction, where the spans between load-bearing walls are small, the installation of floor beams is rational decision. There is no point in installing a heavy reinforced concrete prefabricated or monolithic ceiling. Reconstruction or repair of a building often involves replacing floors. Here you also cannot do without beams. But what kind of structures should be installed in order to build a safe ceiling and not spend extra money? Let's look at everything in order.

Scheme for sealing the ceiling in outer wall: 1 – wall, 2 – lining, 3 – end of the beam to be sealed, 4 – floor slab.

Types of floor beams

Reinforced concrete.
Metal.
Wooden.

Reinforced concrete beams span large spans, but they are installed only with the use of heavy lifting equipment. Metal constructions They have practically no restrictions on the span width, but their disadvantage is susceptibility to corrosion and high thermal and sound conductivity. Wooden floor beams do not have these disadvantages, which is why they are widely used.

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Advantages of wooden floor beams

Light weight structures. It can easily be supported by walls and foundations, and during installation you can do without lifting mechanisms.
Easy to install. The work is feasible for people without high construction qualifications.
High thermal insulation properties.
Good reliability, strength and durability.
Lower cost compared to structures made from other materials.

To make beams, you can use both coniferous and deciduous wood. But Special attention you need to pay attention to the quality of the wood:

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Selection of timber section

Beams are used rectangular or square section. For a rectangular beam, the wide side should be vertical. This increases the rigidity of the structure and reduces the deflection of the floor. The most common sections: 100x100 mm, 100x250 mm, 150x150 mm, 150x250 mm.

Based on the design calculations, other sections can be used. To select the correct beam cross-section, you need to calculate the load on it linear meter. It will consist of the weight of the beam itself, structural elements of the floor, furniture and items on the upper floor, as well as the weight of people. Loads must be rounded up, creating a certain margin of structural strength.

Loads, kg/linear m	Section of beams with span length, m
Loads, kg/linear m	3,0	3,5	4,0	4,5	5,0	5,5	6,0
150	5x14	5×16	6×18	8×18	8×20	10×20	10×22
200	5×16	5x18	7×18	7×20	10×20	12×22	14×22
250	6×16	6×18	7×20	10×20	12×20	14×22	16×22
350	7×16	7×18	8×20	10×22	12×22	16×22	20×00

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Installation of floor beams

Wooden products are used for spans of up to 5 m for interfloor slabs and up to 6 m for attic slabs. The ends should rest only on load-bearing walls. The pitch of the beams is taken within 0.6 - 1 m. In a rectangular room, the structures are laid parallel short wall, if long walls are load-bearing.

The installation of the floor begins by installing 2 beams at opposite walls. They are placed at a distance of more than 5 cm from the edge of the wall. The placement of products in the same horizontal plane is checked using a water level. Stretch the lighthouse cord between the outer beams and, guided by it, lay the rest of the products on evenly spaced from each other, but not more than calculated.

To adjust the height of the beams, its end can be trimmed, if necessary, lowered, or placed whole piece wood if necessary to lift up. You cannot place wood chips, because when the wood dries, they can move and fall out. To prevent the structures from moving, they can be temporarily fixed before installing the flooring. The space between the ends on the wall is filled with bricks or blocks.

The end of the interfloor beam should not reach the outer edge of the wall 20-30 cm.

This will allow you to place the product in a dry area without passing the “dew point”, where condensation forms, which has a detrimental effect on the wood. For protection, the ends of the beams are covered with roofing material or treated with a special protective solution. But if attic floor beams are installed, their ends can extend beyond the outer walls and serve as the base of the roof eaves.

During construction wooden house made of beams, floor beams can be attached to walls using special thrust brackets without violating the integrity of the wall. If a stove or fireplace heating pipe passes through the ceiling, then in order to fire safety the distance from the pipe to the beam must be at least 40 cm.