Oh, bathhouse, how nice it is sometimes to sit in a steam room and relax, but you won’t be able to do this if it’s difficult to maintain desired temperature. This happens in most cases due to poor thermal insulation or violation of technology during its installation. How to insulate the walls of a bathhouse from the inside, so that nothing can overshadow the joy of visiting the steam room? I am going to answer this question in this article. Read, don't get distracted.
Advantages of internal insulation
Yes, yes, we will talk specifically about internal insulation, since this method has significant advantages over insulating a bathhouse from the outside. At least three such advantages come to mind.
The first is the opportunity to reduce heat loss in a bathhouse that has already been built, but during the construction of which mistakes were made when insulating the foundation. This defect cannot be corrected by insulating the building from the outside, since the heat will escape through the floor, and it can only be insulated from the inside.
The second advantage is purely economic. Insulating a bathhouse from the inside requires much less materials than completely covering the entire building with thermal insulation and cladding - the work area is much smaller. In addition, when insulating a bathhouse from the inside, the main work is often carried out only in the steam room, which is even smaller in size.
Of course, other rooms, such as the locker room and shower room, also need to be insulated, but the amount of material consumed for them is several times less than for a steam room, therefore, the money spent on all this is an order of magnitude less.
The third benefit only comes into play if the winters in your area are particularly harsh. In this case, the bathhouse needs to be insulated both outside and inside, especially if the building is built of brick or aerated concrete. Even log baths, which are famous for their thermal insulation properties without special treatment, in such winter conditions they will not be able to do without additional internal thermal insulation.
Selection of material for insulation
On this moment represented on the construction market great amount various insulation materials for walls. But not all of them are suitable for a bath. You need to choose thermal insulation based on two facts:
- Conditions in which thermal insulation will fall;
- Characteristics of the thermal insulation material.
The first fact is the operating conditions. In the bathhouse they are more than aggressive, high humidity and temperature. Its large differences, especially in winter time. From the street side, frost will “press” the insulation, and from the other side, heat. This combination will inevitably lead to condensation.
In addition, high temperatures turn many popular insulation materials into hazardous to human health. Also, do not forget that a bathhouse is a building with an increased risk of fire, so there is no need to insulate it with materials that burn well.
As for the characteristics of the material, they must correspond, again, to the operating conditions. To make it clearer, I will give an example of thermal insulation that should not be used when insulating a bathhouse. This material is ecowool. Yes, it is an excellent heat insulator, but its tendency to accumulate moisture ruins everything. When ecowool is wet, it loses its properties.
What materials cannot be used to insulate a bath?
In addition to ecowool, it should be taboo for you to insulate the walls of a bathhouse from the inside using polystyrene foam, other materials based on it, such as penoplex, and also forget about using classic insulation mineral wool. I explain why they are not suitable.
At high temperatures, polystyrene foam and all its derivatives begin to release harmful substances that can lead to suffocation; in a steam room you may not even notice this. In addition, polystyrene foam burns well, which is not good.
Formaldehyde resins are used as a binder in classic mineral wool; their vapors are harmful to humans. Yes, all manufacturers claim that these fumes do not exceed the norm. But who cares if this is the norm for poison. And besides, this norm stands out when normal conditions, and the bathhouse is no different.
What materials are suitable for insulation?
- Peat blocks;
- Sawdust;
- Foam glass;
- Minvata on acrylic base.
Peat blocks. This is ordinary peat mixed with a natural filler such as sawdust or straw. A “porridge” is made from these materials by diluting it in water, using molds and a press to produce blocks. They do not rot, do not burn, absorb perfectly, and also release moisture back. They have good heat and sound insulation.
Sawdust is a common production waste when cutting wood. Despite its small size, it is still wood, and it has good thermal insulation. The wall in the bathhouse is insulated with slips, pouring them into niches that are previously covered with a vapor barrier and waterproofing.
Fiberboard - wood fiber boards, are nothing more than pressed wood chips. They have rather mediocre thermal insulation, but at the same time they are inexpensive.
Foam glass. As the name implies, foam glass is foamed glass with excellent thermal insulation characteristics. Doesn't highlight harmful substances, does not burn, indifferent to moisture. In my opinion, foam glass is the best option for insulating a bathhouse, but there is a drawback, like any other a good product, the price for it “bites”. But if the issue of saving is not an issue for you, then choose foam glass, you will not regret it.
Acrylic based mineral wool. These are the same mineral wool slabs, with almost the same characteristics, but do not emit harmful substances. This is because the binder is not formaldehyde, but acrylic resin, which is absolutely inert to any chemical compounds and temperature changes.
“Pie” insulation technology
This technology has this name because of the several layers that make up the wall after the insulation work is completed. The first layer is considered bearing wall, the second is insulation, the third is a vapor barrier, and the fourth is wall cladding, which in a bathhouse is usually wooden lining. To make it clear how to use this technology, I will give an example of how a bathhouse can be insulated with mineral wool on acrylic resin.
The technology involves starting insulation from the ceiling and ending with the floor. The “Pie” begins with the installation of wooden blocks on the surface. They will serve as the basis for mounting mineral wool slabs, which, by the way, will be fastened by surprise, without the use of any additional fasteners.
In order for the insulation boards to fit securely into place, the distance between the wooden bars of the frame must be 1 cm less than the width of the insulation; only in this case can you be sure that the insulation will not fall out. Once the frame is ready, you can begin to fill it with thermal insulation. Make sure that during installation, the edges of the mats are not pressed, as this may negatively affect its properties.
Important: When installing insulation, all its components must fit tightly to each other. This is also necessary because if there is a gap between the plates, then moisture will accumulate in this place, and a so-called cold bridge will form, through which heat will escape.
After installing the insulation, it must be covered with a vapor barrier. Its role can be traditional roofing felt or more modern foil vapor barriers. The side that is covered with foil should “face the inside of the room to reflect heat back. All seams and joints of the vapor barrier must be sealed using aluminum tape.
Next, after all the seams of the vapor barrier have become airtight, you can begin to make lathing, on top of the vapor barrier, on the protruding frame bars. When installing, keep in mind that the distance between the vapor barrier and the future cladding must be at least 5 cm. This is necessary so that the condensate drains freely, otherwise it will fall on the lining, which will quickly rot because of this.
Features of steam room insulation
The main feature of steam room insulation is the concentration of insulation in this room compared to others. Since the steam room is the main room of the bath, it is necessary to create conditions here so that as much heat as possible remains in the room, and at the same time ensure good ventilation.
To properly insulate a steam room, as already mentioned, you need to use high-quality thermal insulation, and follow the technology of its installation at all stages, from surface preparation and installation of the frame, to the last stage, wall cladding wooden clapboard. Once again I would like to emphasize the importance of good sealing of the seams of the vapor barrier and dense laying of the insulation.
Sometimes it is permissible to use several layers of insulation, but even in this case, do not forget that you need to leave an air space between the vapor barrier and the finishing wall cladding.
Insulation of ceiling floor and roof
Thermal insulation of all surfaces in the bathhouse, technologically, has a few differences. They consist of only a few nuances, and the basic rules apply to both walls and floors with a roof.
For example, as already mentioned, the insulation of a bathhouse starts from the top, that is, from the roof and ends with the floor, there are several reasons for this. Firstly, it’s more convenient, you see, it’s easier to go down systematically than to rush from wall to roof, and then to the floor.
Secondly, all surfaces must have uniform thermal insulation. That is, the heat-insulating materials must fit tightly to the same elements, but on a different surface, and the vapor barrier must also overlap onto the next surface.
For example, the thermal insulation of the roof and ceiling should be adjacent to each other, the vapor barrier on the ceiling overlaps the walls in order to subsequently connect it with the vapor barrier on the wall using aluminum tape.
In turn, the thermal insulation and vapor barrier of the walls are connected to the floor in the same way. By following this technology, it is possible to achieve uniform thermal insulation and complete sealing of the room so that steam does not leave the room. The latter is especially true for the steam room.
Video “We cover the bathhouse from the inside”
A video explaining the stages of work using the example of a bathhouse with an already assembled frame and practically finished surfaces for installation of insulation.
It’s a shame after building a bathhouse to find that the structure cools down quickly, and the heat is not the same. The reason can only be one thing - improper thermal insulation of the steam room. To ensure that insulating your sauna with your own hands does not become a disappointment, study the advice of experts!
Thermal insulation of a sauna - the principle of a thermos
Seventy percent of the heat in a bath or sauna is so-called radiant heat. That is, heating occurs not due to an increase in air temperature (or rather, not only due to it), but due to heat rays from the stove or heated stones. In the same way, you warm yourself by a fire - even at a distance you feel warmth, and this heat is not from heated air, but from the rays emanating from the fire itself. Once you put a barrier between the fire and you, you will stop feeling these rays.
Task at proper insulation– keep these rays inside the steam room, otherwise it will heat up for a long time and cool down quickly.
Imagine an ordinary thermos with tea. If hot liquid were inside a regular metal can, the heat would escape through the walls. But in a thermos, the rays are reflected from the foil, so the tea does not cool down so quickly. The same “thermos effect” must be created inside the bathhouse using heat-insulating materials. One of the most popular misconceptions is the belief that it is enough to line the walls with insulation and eurolining, and the job is done.
In fact, as we already understand, thermal insulation of a sauna and bathhouse is a much more complex process. However, not so much that everyone who wants to can’t do it. The second misconception, or rather, the desire for naturalness, leads people to insulate with materials that are prone to rotting - we're talking about about insulation with moss. At high humidity, moss not only rots, but can also infect wood with rot. True, there is an exception - red building moss. But it is also susceptible to a problem that no one thinks about at first - all kinds of bugs and birds can tear your insulation system into small pieces.
How to insulate - all about insulation materials
Basalt fiber is most often used to insulate baths and saunas. What makes these materials good is their durability, fire resistance and moisture resistance. In addition, they are not afraid of rotting. For convenience, manufacturers produce such insulation in the form of rolls, mats or slabs.
Baths are also insulated with organic materials, such as wood concrete - these are blocks made from a mixture of sawdust and cement. Such blocks can be made independently and used even in those climatic zones, Where low temperatures. True, such insulation has significant drawback- it will ignite. However, if you make the blocks yourself, you can add substances to the solution that make the wood fire-resistant. With the help of wood concrete, you can significantly save on the construction of a bathhouse, but it is still recommended to cover the steam room area with the same mineral wool - as they say, out of harm’s way.
Polymer-based materials - polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam - are well suited for dressing rooms and rest rooms. Again, fire resistance is not listed among their qualities, so it is better not to use them in steam rooms where there is a high chance of fire. In addition to insulation, you should also take care of vapor barrier. For these purposes, inexpensive roofing felt and glassine are most often used, but such savings are harmful to health.
When heated, these materials release toxins that easily enter the human body through the lungs. Aluminum foil or heat-insulating materials with foil coating can solve two problems at once - this is not only vapor barrier, but also reflection of heat back into the room. Manufacturers go further by offering fiberglass mats covered with foil. When working with such, the task is simplified - the whole process is reduced to almost one step.
Insulating a sauna with your own hands - step by step!
We've sorted out the materials, now it's the turn of the insulation process itself. Let’s say right away that this process is not simple and quite expensive, but isn’t it worth it? By all standard schemes Bathroom insulation begins from the floor. And it’s not just about reducing the degree of displacement warm air cold, but also about the comfort of people - walking on a warm, heated floor in a hot steam room is much more pleasant.
How to insulate a sauna with your own hands - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Insulating the floor
When installing a solid floor, the insulation is laid on a rough plank floor, and a waterproofing layer is in turn attached on top of it, so that its edges extend onto the walls by at least 10 centimeters. After this, the finished floor is laid.
The design of leaking floors is more complex. To begin with, a pit half a meter deep is dug, which is filled to 5 cm with sand. The sand is compacted, and 20 cm thick foam plastic slabs are laid on it. They need to be filled with a five-centimeter layer of a mixture of cement and foam chips (1:1). Waterproofing is laid on the concrete and again filled with a layer of cement with vermiculite (also 1:1) 5 cm thick. Then the reinforcing mesh is spread and concrete with fine crushed stone is poured. Concrete is taken in such a way as to ensure a slope towards the drainage. Once the screed has hardened properly, the finished floor is laid.
Step 2: Lathing walls and ceilings
The technology for insulating walls and ceilings is almost identical, so the work is not divided into two stages, but is carried out simultaneously. First you need to lath the surfaces. If you have a sawmill at home, you can easily make the bars you need measuring 50*50 mm. They need to be stuffed vertically, keeping a distance slightly less than the width of the insulation. As a result, we get miniature niches in which the insulation is straightened. This way it will take its place more tightly.
Step 3: Insulation
If you chose fiberglass or mineral wool, then due to their elasticity they will not need any fastening - just cut the required pieces and straighten them between the sheathing. The recommended insulation thickness, depending on the climate of the region, is from 50 to 100 mm, than colder region, the larger the insulation layer. The ceiling is always insulated with a double portion of materials.
The vast majority of owners country houses They can’t imagine their area without a real Russian bath or sauna. But in order for it to function properly, and really bring only strength and health to the owners, it is very important to insulate it well; methods of insulation are considered at the stage of drawing up the bathhouse design, but this can also be done with a completed building
To know how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you need to study the technology of this process and choose the right materials.
Materials for work
Before you start considering insulation technology, you need to figure out what materials need to be prepared for the job.
1. Thermal insulation material is the most important component in the process of insulating the walls, ceiling and floor of a bathhouse. Today there is a large number of insulation materials, but not all of them are suitable for bath conditions. Which ones are most adapted to high temperatures and humidity? It makes sense to take a look at the most popular ones - polystyrene foam, regular and extruded (XPS boards), mineral wool, polyurethane foam and expanded clay:
| Expanded polystyrene | Mineral wool | XPS boards | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
 |  |  |  |  |
| Has an open cellular structure | Since the material is installed using the spraying method, it can have an open and closed cellular structure | It has a fibrous structure, the fibers are randomly located in the vertical and horizontal directions | Closed (sealed) cellular structure | Natural bulk material consisting of granules with a porous structure |
| Poor moisture permeability | Poor moisture permeability | Almost does not absorb moisture | Does not allow moisture to pass through | Does not allow moisture to pass through |
| Light in weight | Light in weight | Medium-light in weight | Medium-light in weight | Easy |
| Has medium strength | Has low strength | Has medium strength | Has high strength | Granules have high strength |
| Average compression strength | Low compression resistance | May have different compression strength ratings from low to medium | High compression resistance | Compression resistant granules |
| Over time, it begins to release toxic substances | When heated, it becomes toxic, emits carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. | Non-toxic | Non-toxic | Non-toxic |
| Not suitable for use under heavy loads | Not suitable for use under loads | Mineral wool has different types, there are resistant and not resistant to high loads | Suitable for use under high load | |
| Subject to decay | Durable, not subject to decay | Durable | Durable | Durable |
| Susceptible to ultraviolet rays (should not be left in open form for a long time) | Almost unaffected by ultraviolet radiation, but it is recommended to cover it with finishing material | UV resistant | Not affected by ultraviolet radiation |
Getting to know characteristics leads to the conclusion that mineral wool is most suitable for insulating a bathhouse from the inside for walls and wooden floors, and XPS slabs are most suitable for concrete. Expanded clay can be called a universal material that is perfect for any floor, but for walls it is used for internal insulation it is forbidden.
If you buy it, it will be perfect for a bath material with a foil layer, which promotes long-term heat retention indoors using the principle of a thermos. For example, some characteristics of foil mineral wool insulation from the Izorok company are shown in the table:
| Izolight-L | Isolite | Isovent | Izokor-S | Isophor | Izoruf | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Density, kg/m³ | 40 | 50 | 90 | 105 | 110 | 150 |
| Compressive strength at 10% deformation, kPa, not less | 20 | 25 | 50 | |||
| Ultimate peel strength of layers, kPa, not less | 4 | 4 | 12 | |||
| Declared thermal conductivity coefficient, W/m×°K | 0,035 | 0,034 | 0,034 | 0,036 | 0,034 | 0,036 |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient under operating conditions, W/m×°K | 0,043 | 0,038 | 0,039 | 0,041 | 0.040 | 0,042 |
| Water absorption by volume, %, no more | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1 |
| Humidity by mass, %, no more | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| Content of organic substances by weight, %, no more | 2.5 | 2.5 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
Mineral wool is suitable for heat and sound insulation work on the walls, ceiling and floor of a bathhouse. But it is still recommended to arrange several layers of thermal insulation on the floors, the first of which should be expanded clay. The important thing is that rodents avoid it, which means that all other materials will be safe.
2. To fasten mineral wool mats or other foil insulation, and create a seamless sealed surface coating, you will need to purchase special foil tape.
3. The insulation is placed between the sheathing guides, which means it will require wooden blocks cross-section, which depends on the thickness of the insulation mats. If, as an example, we take the recommended insulation thickness of 100 mm, then the bars should have the same size on one side, or double lathing with perpendicular guides and a two-layer arrangement of mats will be used.
4. The bars are attached to the walls using self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors(depending on the type wall material), therefore it is necessary to purchase these elements of the required length, corresponding to both the size of the guides and the required penetration into the walls - for wood - 20 ÷ 25 mm, for solid walls - at least 40 mm.
5. If you choose insulation without a foil layer, then to cover it you will need a vapor barrier film.
6. If the floor in the bathhouse is filled with concrete screed, then in addition to insulation you will need:
— cement and sand or ready-made construction mixture;
- roofing felt;
— reinforcing mesh;
— guides for beacons;
- polyethylene film ;
- damper tape.
The amount of materials will depend on the area of the floor, ceiling and walls of the insulated room.
Having prepared everything you need, you can move on to insulating the surfaces of bath rooms.
Prices for popular types of insulation
Insulation
Insulation of bath floors
As you know, a bathhouse can be built of wood or brick, which is why not only wood, but also concrete is installed. The latter is most often poured into brick bath, but sometimes they do it in wood. In any case, a concrete floor always requires enhanced insulation.
Thermal insulation of floors in any bathhouse should be given special attention, since they must withstand high humidity and temperature changes between the rooms and the ground. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of a multi-layer “pie” of a wooden floor or a concrete device, it is recommended to cover the entire surface under the structure of the bathhouse with a medium fraction or slag.
The expanded clay layer will depend on the thickness of the walls of the building. It must be at least twice as thick as they are. It should be noted that if it is possible and space allows to make the expanded clay embankment thicker, then this will only increase the effectiveness of thermal insulation. If the bathhouse is built of brick and installed on concrete foundation, then it is recommended to fill it with expanded clay almost to the entire height of the foundation strip.
Floor covered with expanded clay “cushion” Concrete floor
In order for the concrete floor of the bathhouse to be warm, you need to do a number of operations that are carried out after connecting the drain pipe (it must be raised in advance to the height of the future screed). The work consists of the following stages:
- The soil is compacted well in the morning, and the walls are covered with a waterproofing compound.
- Next, a layer of sand 80 ÷ 100 mm thick is poured onto the ground, moistened and compacted.
- Roofing felt is laid on top of the sand, extending onto the walls by 150 ÷ 200 mm. The canvases are laid with an overlap of 120 ÷ 150 mm, it is advisable to fasten them with waterproof tape or glue them together thermally using tar mastic.
- Next, expanded clay is poured onto the roofing felt in such a way that the future floor screed is approximately 50 mm lower than the height of the foundation.
- Next, expanded clay is distributed over the entire surface in an even layer. Additionally, XPS slabs 50 mm thick can be laid on it - they have sufficient rigidity and can easily withstand all loads; do not forget that before laying them, expanded clay should be covered with dense polyethylene.
- A reinforcing mesh with cells from 50 to 100 mm is laid on the surface prepared in this way.
- Beacons are placed on top of the reinforcing belt, along which it will be aligned.
- If the opening of the drain pipe is located in the center of the insulated room, then the beacons are laid at a slight angle to it, so that when leveling the concrete, a slight slope is formed on all sides of the room towards the drain.
- Further, along the perimeter of the room on bottom part damper tape is glued or otherwise attached to the walls. This measure will preserve the screed from deformation during temperature changes, since compensates thermal expansion of the material.
- Prepared concrete, mixed with sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1, is laid on the reinforcing mesh and leveled using building regulations. It is advisable to introduce into the composition special plasticizers that are commercially available - this will improve the quality of the coating. Ready-made ones are often used for filling. building mixtures for screed with an already optimized composition for rooms with high humidity or for external works .
- After the screed has hardened and gained strength, it is impregnated with a waterproofing compound () of deep penetration.
- When the soil dries, it is laid ceramic tile. Another option is to install joists with wooden flooring on the concrete floor. Well-treated boards on it should be fixed at a distance of 20 ÷ 30 mm from each other.
Wooden floor
For wooden baths Wooden floors are traditional. To arrange them correctly, in addition to insulation operations, you need to provide high-quality waterproofing. Don’t forget about floor ventilation - for this, special channels must be left in the foundation.
Work on installation and insulation of the floor is carried out in such a sequence:
- First of all, a drain pipe is connected to the bathhouse. The drain is usually located in the middle of the room, and all insulation materials and the ceiling are arranged around it.
- Roofing material is laid on the compacted soil, which should rise to the walls by 150 ÷ 200 mm.
- Expanded clay is laid on top of the waterproofing. The greater its thickness, the better, but between its surface and the floor beams there must be a ventilation distance of at least 200 ÷ 250 mm.
- Next, on waterproofed Floor beams are laid in layers of roofing felt over the protruding part of the foundation. All wooden elements The floor must be treated in advance.
- Nailed or screwed to the bottom of the floor beams cranial bars, on which the subfloor boards will be mounted.
- The subfloor is covered with a vapor-proof film, which covers both the floor beams and the boards laid between them.
- Next, insulation is laid on the subfloor between the floor beams - it can be mineral wool or expanded clay.
- The top of the insulating material is covered with another layer of vapor barrier film.
On top is another layer of water vapor barrier - The logs are fixed perpendicular to the floor beams, on which the wooden flooring is placed. A hole is made in the middle - the drain pipe will go into it.
- On the style, slats are nailed, cut at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain - they will become a lathing for installing a waterproof wooden floor.
- Insulation is placed between the sheathing bars with the foil layer facing up and secured together with foil tape. The thermal insulator must completely cover the sheathing bars.
- A leak-proof, well-fitted, finished wooden flooring is laid on top at an angle.
Another insulation option for wooden and concrete floors
In addition to those presented above, there are also a very large number different options insulation of the bath floor. Can you briefly talk about one more thing? possible way flooring using expanded polystyrene. The method is more labor-intensive, but is suitable for both concrete and wooden coverings.
1 - soil;
2- layer of sand;
3 - foam plastic boards;
4 - cement mortar with foam chips;
5 - waterproofing layer;
6 - cement mortar with vermiculite;
7 - concrete screed;
9 - boardwalk.
- In this option, the space under the future floor will have to be deepened by 500 ÷ 600 mm, and the soil at its bottom will have to be compacted well.
- Then, a layer of sand 50 ÷ 70 mm thick is poured onto the bottom, which is wetted and compacted with a hand tamper.
- A dense waterproofing film is laid on top of this layer, which should completely cover the bottom and extend 200-300 mm onto the walls. It must be securely fastened to its walls.
- Instead of expanded clay, which was used in the first versions, a layer of expanded polystyrene boards is laid on the film. Its total thickness must be at least 150 ÷ 200 mm.
- Next, a screed made of cement mortar and foam chips in proportions 2:1. The thickness of this layer should be 50 ÷ 70 mm. This layer will not only insulate, but also strengthen the slab material laid below.
- Then a layer of waterproofing is laid again - for this you can use thick polyethylene film or roofing felt. The canvases must be fastened together with waterproof tape.
- The next layer in this “pie” is a layer of concrete with vermiculite, mixed in a 3:1 ratio. Its thickness should be 50 ÷ 100 mm. - This natural material, which has high thermal insulation properties. Insects and rodents never settle in it, it is not subject to rotting and decomposition. A vermiculite layer will significantly increase the thermal insulation of the floor.
This is what natural material looks like - vermiculite The table shows the proportions cement-vermiculite solutions and their performance characteristics:
| Characteristics of solutions with vermiculite | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cement (kg) | 40 | 30 | 250 | 200 | 150 | 120 | 100 |
| Vermiculite (liter) | 130 | 130 | 130 | 130 | 130 | 130 | 130 |
| Water (liter) | 42.5 | 41 | 40 | 39.5 | 39 | 38.5 | 38 |
| Volumetric weight (kg/m³) dry | 60 | 50 | 43 | 39 | 34 | 31 | 29 |
| Compressive strength (kg/cm²) | 20 | 13 | 10 | 7 | 5 | 2 | 1 |
| Dry thermal conductivity (W/m×°K) | 0.13 | 0.11 | 0.1 | 0,092 | 0,083 | 0,075 | 0,07 |
| Thermal conductivity at 5% humidity (W/m×°K) | 0.17 | 0,145 | 0.13 | 0.12 | 0.105 | 0.09 | 0.08 |
| Sound absorption coefficient at frequency 1000 Hz | 0.37 | 0.51 | 0.54 | 0,56 | 0.6 | 0.64 | 0.73 |
- The frozen screed is strengthened reinforcement mesh with cells up to 100 mm, and beacons for the upper concrete screed. The beacons are fixed to concrete or gypsum mortar, at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain.
- Next, concrete is laid out on this structure, in the same proportions and combinations with modifying additives, as described above. The thickness of the screed near the drain should be at least 50mm.
- After strengthening the screed, ceramic tiles are laid on it or removable wooden flooring wet floors.
Boards in this the floor is fixed at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from each other - this will not only allow water to quickly drain from the flooring, but also allow the wood to dry out. In addition, removable ones can be periodically placed outside for ventilation and drying, so you need to foresee their size in advance so that they can easily pass through the bathhouse door.
Insulation of bath walls
It is equally important, in addition to the floor, to reliably insulate the walls and ceiling of bath rooms. Brick walls and ceiling wooden bath They are insulated according to the same principle, the only difference between them will be the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Since wood has a lower thermal conductivity than brick, the latter will require a thicker layer of insulation.
Special attention- insulation of bath walls The process of wall insulation is carried out as follows:
- The walls are being processed antiseptic composition- it will protect them from the appearance and spread of mold and mildew.
- Next, you need to attach a water vapor barrier film to the wall.
- The sheathing is installed.
- Insulation is placed between the sheathing guides.
- Vapor barrier is attached.
- Counter battens are nailed down - this will create the necessary ventilation gap.
- The facing material is installed.
The sequence of work is general, but for walls made of different materials, has its own characteristics.
Brick walls
- Sheathing bars are fixed to the brick wall in increments of 600 mm. The cross-sectional size of the timber must be equal to the thickness of the selected insulation. Usually for brick wall It is taken to insulate slag wool in mats 100 mm thick, which means that the thickness of the sheathing guides should be 100 mm.
- Insulation is placed between the bars in the spacer. You can help fix it with a stretched zigzag nylon cord.
- The next layer is a water vapor barrier film, which is secured to the sheathing bars. Overlaps between the canvases (at least 150 mm) are glued with waterproof tape.
- Next, counter battens are nailed to the bars.
- Then foil insulation, 8 ÷ 10 mm thick, is stretched over the entire surface and attached to the slats. The joints are sealed with foil tape.
- On top, the entire “pie” is sheathed with wooden clapboard, which is secured to the same counter-lattice slats.
It should be noted that if foil insulation is used in the insulation process, then the additional layer of vapor barrier can be eliminated, since this type of insulation material perfectly retains steam.
Insulation of a log wall
1 - log wall;
2 - basalt insulation with foil surface;
3 - sheathing bars;
4 - lining;
5 - ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.
The walls of a log bathhouse themselves have low thermal conductivity and retain heat well inside the room, provided that the joints of the logs at the corners and between each other are well sealed. Therefore, insulation is carried out as follows:
- Basalt mineral wool with a foil layer is fixed to the wall, which should face the room. The thickness of the insulation is selected from 50 to 80 mm. It can be secured with special fasteners with wide caps - “fungi”, which are recessed into the insulation.
- Wooden sheathing bars are nailed vertically or horizontally on top of the insulation.
- Next, the wall is sheathed, having a thickness of 10 mm - it is attached to the sheathing bars.
Insulation of timber walls
A wall made of timber should be, just like a log wall, well insulated by itself, that is, all cracks and gaps are caulked with tow. It is easier to attach all the components of the insulation “pie” to it, since it has a flat surface into which fasteners can be easily screwed or hammered. Its insulation occurs in the following sequence:
- A sheathing made of timber is attached to the wall, at a distance of guides from each other of 600 mm.
- Next, insulation material is laid between the bars - it is better if it is mineral wool.
- Then the entire structure is covered with rolled foil insulation, which is fixed to the sheathing bars, and the joints of the individual panels are glued together with foil tape.
- Counter slats are nailed on top of the bars, which will create a ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.
- At the end of the process, the insulating “pie” is lined with clapboard.
It must be said that there are other options for laying insulation layers, but the ones given above are considered the most popular and frequently used, since they are completely uncomplicated and have long been tested in practice.
Ceiling insulation
The ceiling can be mounted and insulated in three ways - you can choose any of them if it is suitable for the existing structure of the bathhouse.
Panel ceiling
This ceiling is mounted from panels, which already consist of everything necessary for vapor barrier, insulation and internal lining layers fixed on support bars. Mineral wool with a thickness of at least 100 mm is most often used as insulation in the panels.
The shields are mounted at the bottom and rise up already in finished form. The peculiarity of this insulation is that between ready-made panels Insulation gaskets must also be laid - this process is carried out after the panels are fixed to the bathhouse ceiling.
Lifting the panels upward can be complicated by the fact that when assembled they have quite a lot of weight, so very often they are lifted in parts and assembled at a height.
false ceiling
A false ceiling is fundamentally different in design from a panel ceiling, since its installation follows a different principle, somewhat similar to wall insulation.
- The frame for such a ceiling is beams attic floor, laid in increments of 600 mm.
- On the side of the attic, waterproofing is laid on the floor beams, which should cover the entire ceiling area.
- A wooden flooring is fixed to the waterproofing, also from the attic side.
- Insulation is placed between the floor beams.
- Then the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier or foil material, which is fixed to the floor beams.
- The last stage is covering the ceiling with wooden paneling.
There is another insulation option false ceiling, using other insulation materials, for example, expanded clay. In this case, almost all the work is done from the attic side, except for the finishing of the ceiling surface with clapboard.
Flat ceiling
The floor ceiling also differs from the two already mentioned in its design, in particular - in that it is laid directly on the walls of the room, that is, in principle it does not rest on the floor beams. For such a ceiling, boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm are used.
From the attic side, a vapor barrier and insulation are laid on the boards, which are covered with a waterproofing film and plywood or plank flooring.
The advantages of this design include speed and ease of installation, but this ceiling option can only be used with insulation small room baths, with distances between walls no more than 2.5 ÷ 2.7 m.
Detailed publication with a description of all materials necessary for this and step by step instructions can be found on the pages of our portal by following the recommended link.
If the installation of thermal insulation and auxiliary materials If done correctly, the heat in the bath rooms will be retained for a very long time, which will help significantly save on fuel.
In conclusion - a detailed video tutorial on insulating a bathhouse built using frame technology.
Video: insulation and finishing of a frame bath
They build baths according to different technologies from different materials. Inner like necessary element baths, depends on it common device. Brick and foam block baths require mandatory insulation and waterproofing.
The need to insulate log houses from is considered in each individual case.
Which bathhouse needs insulation from the inside? Which ones to use? How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside? Let's figure it out.
Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: Materials for insulation
ATTENTION! It is necessary to leave a small space between the vapor barrier material and the lining. Air gap becomes an additional heat-insulating layer and allows it to function natural ventilation inside the walls and ceiling.
wooden bath
If . A bathhouse built from logs or beams retains heat better than others. The need for insulation depends on the thickness of the wall material.
block baths
The choice of heat-insulating materials is determined not only by good heat retention, but also no release of toxic substances with strong heating. Pay attention to combined insulation, they can significantly simplify work.
For finishing you need to use soft rocks tree. The lining must be carefully processed and in no case coated with any chemical compounds.
The work of insulating all parts of the bathhouse from the inside: floor, walls, ceiling, etc. is quite complex, but quite doable even without special knowledge of construction.
Almost completed and only Finishing work, it’s worth thinking about insulating the bathhouse from the inside. Some people think that it is not worth doing this, that it is a waste of effort and money, etc. On the other hand, if you want to reduce fuel consumption in the bathhouse, shorten the warm-up time of the steam room and at the same time retain heat for as long as possible, then using insulation is exactly what you need. We will tell you what insulation to use for the floor and walls of a bathhouse and how to do the installation correctly with your own hands, using the video instructions provided.
Why are bath floors and walls insulated?
It would seem that the bathhouse is a place where high temperatures, and most of the time it’s hot there. And yet, if you do not provide high-quality thermal insulation in the bathhouse, this will be fraught with large heat loss (which will reduce the service life of the bathhouse), consistently high humidity, rotting processes (if the structure is wooden), and a strong unpleasant odor.
To avoid such troubles, it is important to take care of high-quality finishing of the walls and ceiling with thermal insulation material. It is imperative to take into account that thermal insulation is carried out only for “dry” (without leaks) wooden and concrete floors.
If you arrange sewer system in the bathhouse properly, then the drains will not come into contact with the thermal insulation in any way and the insulation will not be damaged.
Bathroom floor insulation
Insulating a bath floor is a rather painstaking and labor-intensive process, the implementation of which should be approached responsibly, since poorly done work during the further operation of the bath can lead to unexpected and very unpleasant consequences, including “opening” the interior finishing and re-insulating the entire structure.
Selection of insulating materials
Choosing a thermal insulation material that meets all the criteria is not as simple a task as it might seem at first glance. Market building materials represented by a huge variety finishing materials and the “poke” method obviously won’t work here, since we are not talking about finishing a seasonal structure. The purpose of a bathhouse is to last, if not centuries, then certainly ten years.
Experts have identified a list optimal materials for internal insulation of baths:
- Tiles (ceramics) are a good option for concrete floors. Its installation will not require expensive materials and systems, but the tile itself should be chosen only best quality so that she can fully cope with the load.
- Expanded clay is an environmentally friendly, inexpensive material that copes well with loads and temperature changes. But to achieve a high-quality result, a considerable amount of material will be required so that the thermal insulation layer is at least 20 cm.
- Slag is in demand among builders when finishing bath floors. Properties are similar to the previous material.
- Styrofoam. The material is very easy to use and has a fairly reasonable price. But you should take into account the fact that not every polystyrene foam is suitable as floor insulation.
- Wood wool - best option for insulating wooden floors. By the way, it can insulate not only wood, but also concrete. Performed in the form of special mats. It is very popular among buyers because it is relatively easy to install, inexpensive and at the same time copes well with the task assigned to it.
Insulation technology for wooden floor structures
The best time to lay a thermal insulation layer in a bathhouse is the construction period, but if we are talking about dry floors, then this work can be done after completion construction work, simply by carefully opening the finishing flooring.
Let us consider schematically the process of laying thermal insulation in a wooden floor:
- To lay the subfloor, it is necessary to nail the skull blocks on both sides of the beams along the entire length.
- We cut the boards (we use low grade) to a size slightly smaller than the distance between the beams and lay them on top of the skull blocks.
- Place a waterproofing layer on top of the subfloor. The best option there will be a special membrane with protection from steam.
- On top of the vapor barrier membrane we place either a second layer of subfloor or thermal insulation.
- We place a second vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation.
- Unused space between drain pipe and fill with insulation with construction foam.
- The last stage is laying the finished floor, trimming the excess vapor barrier and installing the baseboard.
Features of concrete floor insulation
The process of laying thermal insulation in a bathhouse with a concrete floor looks somewhat simpler. We lay the waterproofing layer on the concrete-filled subfloor.
Advice. Both roll and coating materials are used as waterproofing. You can also use both simultaneously in finishing.
After the waterproofing is completed, you can begin laying the thermal insulation. We lay mineral wool mats, expanded polystyrene or expanded clay. It all depends on your personal preferences. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is determined by the quality of the selected material.
Next, above the insulation, we place a reinforcing mesh installed on special stands made of plastic or alabaster-cement mixture. Fill from above cement screed. Further work will depend solely on the wishes of the bathhouse owner.
Specifics of insulation of bath walls
After you've finished interior decoration floor and ceiling, you can begin finishing the walls of the bathhouse. The process may differ slightly depending on the type of material used in the construction of the bathhouse.
List of possible materials
The following materials are traditionally used to insulate bath walls:
- reed mats;
- porous peat/cellulose boards;
- polystyrene or polyurethane boards;
- mineral wool slabs;
- glass wool
Please note that polystyrene and mineral wool are not particularly heat-resistant materials, so they are somewhat inferior to the others on the list.
Advice. As an inexpensive and at the same time effective insulation, you can use mats made from a combination of mineral wool and aluminum foil.
Insulation of log walls
Initially, a structure made from a log house is considered quite warm. So why do we need thermal insulation then? - you ask. It's simple: one of the main advantages of a log house - its naturalness - is also a disadvantage, since over time, with a fairly sealed structure, a shrinkage process occurs and considerable cracks form in the walls. Accordingly, cold air penetrates inside, which will not only spoil the process of taking bath procedures, but will also require the use of more fuel to warm up the room.
The only thing you need to do is lay out a thermal insulation layer during the construction of the log house and, after construction is completed, carefully treat the joints of adjacent logs. Then hammer the fibers using a hammer and caulk. Treat the seams with sealant.
Insulation of brick and frame walls
The process of insulating the walls of a bathhouse from a frame is not as simple as in the previous case, because it will require very accurate calculations and choosing the most suitable material. This is due to the fact that such structures are not able to withstand heavy loads and weight. This means that the weight of the thermal insulation material should be light. Foam plastic is indispensable in this capacity.
So, the process of insulating bath walls from the inside is as follows:
- We create a frame on a load-bearing wall.
- We cover the walls with a thermal insulation layer.
- On top of the insulation we attach waterproofing (a layer with foil or, in extreme cases, ordinary polyethylene). Laying must be overlapped.
- We sheathe the resulting multilayer decorative material to your taste, for example, clapboard. The process can be considered completed.
We introduced you to the technology of insulating the bathhouse frame from the inside, namely the floor and walls. This process, as you can see, is quite simple: all you need to do is use the information provided and apply your maximum strength and diligence. Good luck!
Interior decoration of the bath: video
Bath insulation: photo
