It happens that the walls wooden house do a poor job of one of their tasks of retaining heat.

The solution to this problem lies in insulating the walls.

The insulating layer will act as a barrier between the street and interior spaces Houses.

When the question arises about insulating the walls of a log house, it is necessary to decide on the choice of thermal insulation method, which can be carried out both outside and inside.

Many home owners are inclined to the first option. This is obvious, because this method much more effective.

• External walls are additionally protected from dampness and solar activity, which increases their service life;
• Removing the dew point outside without the possibility of condensation;
• Providing highly effective thermal insulation;
• Preservation of room volumes;
• Possibility of sealing external holes and cracks;

Flaws:

• Changing the appearance of the building facade;
• high cost of work;
• dependence of work on the season and weather conditions;

External insulation under siding

• low cost;
• the possibility of leveling the walls;
• independence of work from the season and weather conditions;

Flaws:

• Shift of the dew point indoors and the likelihood of condensation and mold formation;
• Reducing the volume of the premises;
• Possible change in the interior for the worse;

Internal insulation

Types of external insulation:

• Strengthening heat insulators to the wall surface using adhesive solutions and finishing with plaster;
• Non-ventilated walls in three layers. The insulating material is fixed using mortar and a single-brick structure is installed external wall in compliance with the air gap;
• Ventilated facade. The walls are protected with waterproofing material, on top of which insulating material is mounted. Then a wind barrier is installed, and the frame is sheathed with clapboard or any other siding. This method allows installation even in winter period due to the lack of need to use adhesive solutions.

Main secret the right home lies in the structure of its walls. The so-called wall “pie” determines a healthy microclimate and longevity of the structure.

wall pie

The “pie” of the wall consists of the following elements:

• Exterior decoration protects all subsequent layers from aggressive external influences, moisture and temperature fluctuations. It can be done various materials. Siding, facade plaster, decorative stones, facing bricks - the choice depends only on your imagination;
• Waterproofing membrane located under exterior trim or wall sheathing. It creates conditions for a favorable microclimate in the room and ensures the safety of wooden frame elements from moisture. Waterproofing releases water vapor out, but does not let moisture in;
• Insulation is one of the most important components. He fits between I-beams- into cells formed using horizontally located connecting links;
• Vapor barrier membrane prevents the penetration of vapors into the interior of the walls. Its installation is carried out on wooden frame from the inside of the walls. Its installation is necessary in places where there is strong humidity (kitchen, bathroom, toilet). Wax paper often acts as a vapor barrier.
• Interior decoration- the closing layer of the “pie”. The inner surface of the wall, if desired, can be covered with plasterboard, clapboard, etc.

Choosing insulation for a wooden house

Thermal insulation of timber walls can be carried out using facing bricks, stones made of concrete or ceramics, small blocks. The only thing is that between the cladding and the surface of the wooden wall there must remain a designed air gap, which is provided in order to remove excess moisture from the tree.

The following can also be used as heat-insulating materials:

• Stone wool is a heat-insulating and sound-insulating material that made mainly from igneous rock melts. Is a variety. Gabbro-basalt rock is the raw material for making material fibers;
• is an inexpensive, hygienically and sanitarily safe, lightweight but tough material. Its insulating properties fully satisfy common requirements, but the possibility of cracks forming due to thermal expansion to which the walls are exposed does not allow us to call it the best solution for insulation;
• Ecowool is an absolutely natural, environmentally friendly, ideal soundproofing material., which consists of cellulose and antiseptics based on borax and boric acid. The material is moisture-resistant, hypoallergenic, and can be installed without creating seams or voids. Does not require the use of a vapor barrier layer when insulating timber walls;
• Basalt wool is characterized by excellent vapor permeability. Basalt is a non-flammable material, which provides fire protection wooden timber house. The material has good noise insulation characteristics;
• Foam glass is foamed glass made up of thousands of glass cells. The material is elastic, moisture-resistant, environmentally friendly, fireproof, very durable and can withstand any temperature fluctuations. It does not attract insects and prevents the formation of mold and mildew. Disadvantages include the lack of steam conductivity, high fragility and high cost of the material;
• When wooden walls Mineral wool is ideal as a heat insulator. It meets almost all the requirements for insulation, namely, it has a high thermal insulation coefficient, a minimum thermal conductivity coefficient and low hygroscopicity. She's not afraid high temperatures, fungus, mold, insects and rodents. It perfectly copes with the removal of vapors to the outside, is non-toxic, non-flammable, breathable and, importantly, durable and can last from 30 to 60 years, based on the declared characteristics of the material.

The following materials are also suitable for insulation:

Types of insulation

Range modern insulation materials very rich and varied, that the question of choosing a heat-insulating material accordingly technical features premises, the requirements and budget of the buyer, will not pose any particular difficulties.

Preparatory work

NOTE!

First of all, the walls are treated with antiseptic preparations, which protect wood from fungus, rot, mold, woodworms, and fire-fighting substances that improve the protective characteristics of the building.

Before installation, carry out the following steps:

• Now comes the time to seal cracks and gaps. They are sealed with sealants or jute fibers;
• Next, proceed to the installation of the sheathing.. To do this, they are attached to the surface of the walls with self-tapping screws. bars measuring 50×50 mm or 50×100 mm— they are selected according to the number of layers of insulation.
• The lathing is installed in the form of horizontally and vertically located guides with a distance between them almost equal to the width of the insulation- less by one cm, in order to more tightly join the material.

Sealing cracks with tow

Sealing cracks with sealant

Insulating the walls of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool

Insulating the outer walls of a wooden house with your own hands is not as complicated a process as it seems at first glance, and mineral wool is well suited for these purposes.

CAREFULLY!

Before installing the insulation on the sheathing, it is necessary to attach a vapor barrier membrane. It will allow indoor water vapor to pass outside, and will retain moisture flowing into the room from the outside, preventing it from being absorbed into the insulating layer and protecting its thermal insulation characteristics.

• Having secured the vapor barrier, begin to lay slabs of insulating material using a construction stapler. In addition, the space between the slats is fixed to the wall using umbrella dowels.
• A waterproofing membrane is installed on top of the laid insulation, which will not let moisture in from the outside, but will remove a small amount of condensation that has penetrated the insulating layer;
• Further, slats are being installed for facing materials, which perform not only the role of frame and decoration of the facade, but also form ventilation gaps necessary for ventilation of the thermal insulation layer;
• As facing materials wooden houses siding, lining, and blockhouse are often used.

Installation of sheathing on timber

Methods for insulating timber

Mineral wool insulation scheme

Installation of insulation from the outside using polystyrene foam as an example

Expanded polystyrene sheets begin to be fixed in the frame from bottom to top using glue specially designed for this purpose. If some sheets don't stay in place well, you can use foam wedges or regular nails to secure them.

Further, foam is covered with a diffusion membrane. It must be laid in horizontal strips from the bottom of the wall to the top, while the resulting polystyrene foam joints must be overlapped by 10 - 15 cm.

The membrane is fastened with a stapler, and the joints are taped with adhesive tape.

After attaching the membrane, the structure is covered. For these purposes, lining is used, thin layer plaster or siding.

NOTE!

Gaps should not be left between the sheets to avoid the formation of cold “bridges”.

Insulation with polystyrene foam

Laying foam

Vapor barrier

The vapor barrier serves to protect the insulation from steam penetration from the side of the wooden wall. It is necessary to install a vapor barrier membrane on the wall only if mineral heat-insulating materials are used and/or their external surfaces face the street.

The film is installed between the heat-insulating material and load-bearing walls Houses. The function of a vapor barrier is to protect the heat-insulating layer from getting wet.

It is necessary to accurately determine the mounting side of the film, since incorrect installation will lead to uncontrolled access of moisture in the future.

For example:

• The foam propylene membrane is attached with the rough side to the under-roof space. If the membrane is polyethylene, the question of which side to attach will not matter
• The two-layer membrane is laid with a smooth surface to the heat-insulating layer.
• One-sided laminated polypropylene film is also directed with the smooth side towards the insulating layer;
• The foil surface of the special film turns towards the heat-insulating layer;

Vapor barrier

Installation of vapor barrier:

• Turn the film to the appropriate side and carefully, avoiding damage, secure it to the sheathing;
• Carefully glue punctures, overlaps, possible gaps and cracks;
• Install the sheathing using beams with a cross section of 3x5 cm to ensure ventilation;
• Cover the structure with finishing materials;

Waterproofing

• Waterproofing protects the walls of the house from the destructive effects of moisture, mildew, and mold.
• It is strengthened between the insulating material and the siding.
• Installation of the waterproofing membrane is carried out by overlapping the fabric by 10-15 cm.
• The canvases are stapled to the surface of the sheathing, and the joints are sealed with special tapes.
• Ventilation gaps are formed using lathing with a 25×50 block;
• A protective metal mesh is installed below

Waterproofing membrane

In conclusion, it is worth saying that insulating the walls of a house made of timber can be done independently. All that is required is your patience and some expenses, which will more than pay off in the future.

Useful video

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside under siding in the video below:

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Despite the fact that wooden walls retain heat better than concrete and brick walls, they also need high-quality insulation. Over time, the wood shrinks, cracks appear at the corners and along the seams, cracks form in the timber itself, through which cold penetrates into the house. Thermal insulation will help get rid of these problems, and at the same time reduce heating costs, and significantly. But first you need to decide how to insulate wooden house outside in order to maintain a comfortable indoor microclimate and extend the life of the wood itself.

Any wood has the ability to absorb moisture. Treatment with various impregnations significantly reduces the hygroscopicity of the material, but cannot completely eliminate it. With normal ventilation, moisture evaporates effectively without having a negative effect on the material, and it remains in the house optimal microclimate. But a violation of air exchange leads to the accumulation of condensation and swelling of the wood, as a result of which fungi develop in it, rot appears, and the air in the house becomes musty.

To avoid such problems, you should follow several rules:

• do not insulate damp walls;
• use only vapor-permeable insulation;
• The thermal insulation on both sides must be covered with a waterproofing membrane;
• leave an air gap between the finishing and the insulation.

Scheme of waterproofing and proper insulation of a wooden house

If you plan to paint wooden walls or you only need to insulate the seams, paint and sealant are also chosen that are vapor-permeable, for example, on acrylic base. And, of course, before insulation, the surface must be well prepared, cleaned of dirt, moss, mold, and repaired. It is especially important that there are no wood-boring beetles in the walls, because under a layer of insulation they will continue their destructive activity until the tree becomes unusable.

Types of insulation for wooden structures

The choice of modern insulation materials is wide, but not all of them are vapor permeable. Most for wooden houses suitable mineral wool materials and cellulose insulation, or ecowool. Let's take a closer look at their characteristics.

This insulation is produced from rock melts, most often from basalt. In addition to stone fibers, the insulation contains a binder (formaldehyde resins, urea) and water-repellent additives. Stone wool refers to non-flammable materials, withstands heating up to 600°C without change physical properties, has low thermal conductivity and high vapor permeability. It is produced in slabs and mats, and can be coated with foil, fiberglass and kraft paper.

Basalt slabs are quite dense and rigid, they retain their shape perfectly throughout their service life and almost do not shrink, provided that the thermal insulation is carried out according to all the rules. This insulation is also resistant to microorganisms, which is also big advantage. Correct form and the light weight of the slabs allow installation without special effort Moreover, basalt fibers are not sharp and do not cause irritation to the skin.

As for the disadvantages, stone wool has very few. The main disadvantage is the fragility of the fibers - when squeezing and cutting the material, fine dust is formed that easily penetrates the respiratory tract. Because of this, it is recommended to work in a respirator. Another disadvantage is high price insulation, so if you have a limited budget you should look for other options.

Specifications

Slag wool

Raw materials for production this insulation are blast furnace slag, that is, metallurgical waste, which causes the low cost of the material. The thermal conductivity of slag wool is slightly higher than that of basalt insulation, and the maximum heating temperature is 300°C, after which the fibers begin to sinter and the material loses its characteristics.

Slag wool is produced in rolls and slabs, often with a foil coating. It is not particularly rigid, and therefore is excellent for thermal insulation of curved surfaces - it can easily be given any shape. Slag wool retains heat well, effectively absorbs sounds, and rodents and insects do not like it. Mold also does not develop in such insulation.

But slag wool also has a lot of disadvantages: it is hygroscopic, does not tolerate temperature changes well, and when wet it releases acid, which corrodes the metal. Its brittle fibers are almost as sharp as glass wool and cause irritation if they come into contact with the skin. When installing insulation, be sure to use protective equipment to avoid particles getting into your eyes and respiratory tract.

Specifications

Glass wool

The insulation is made from molten glass with the addition of limestone, dolomite, borax and some other components. The binder is synthetic polymers, less often bitumen. Glass wool has the longest fibers (from 15 to 50 mm), due to which the material is noticeably superior in elasticity and resilience to other types mineral wool, and also has a high mechanical strength at low density.

Glass wool is vapor permeable, retains heat well, and is not afraid of exposure to chemically aggressive substances. It is non-flammable, can withstand heating up to 450°C without changing its physical characteristics, and is not affected by sudden temperature changes. Like other mineral wool insulation materials, glass wool is produced in slabs, rolls and mats, including those coated with foil and fiberglass.

The biggest disadvantage of glass wool is the fragility and thorniness of the fibers, which can cause severe irritation on the skin and penetrate the respiratory tract and eyes.

Light clothing cannot protect against thin and sharp particles, so for work you need to choose something thicker, be sure to use a respirator, goggles and rough gloves.

Specifications

To produce ecowool, waste from the paper and cardboard industry is used, and 80% of this insulation consists of natural cellulose. To improve the characteristics, cellulose fibers are mixed with fire retardants and antiseptics. Ecowool has the ability to absorb and release moisture without changing the thermal insulation properties, and if you insulate the walls with it, condensation will never appear in the room. In addition, it absorbs sounds well, dampens vibrations, and does not emit harmful substances. Thanks to the presence of insecticidal additives, this insulation does not harbor insects, and rodents rarely damage it.

Ecowool components

The insulation is a very loose light mass gray, which is tightly packed in bags of 15 kg. Immediately before insulation, the mass is poured out of the bag and loosened using a mixer, and then laid by hand or machine. The effectiveness of thermal insulation directly depends on the density of the layer: lightly compacted material quickly shrinks and forms cold bridges, while a densely laid coating does not change its characteristics throughout its entire service life.

The main disadvantage of ecowool is its installation technology. A pneumatic installation is expensive and requires certain skills to work with it, so it is better to hire specialists for mechanical blowing.

The manual laying method takes a lot of time, the material is distributed less evenly, and tamping requires more physical effort.

Specifications

Prices for mineral wool

Insulation of walls with mineral wool slabs

Insulation with mineral wool does not require any special skills, so anyone can handle it if they wish. To do everything as efficiently as possible, you need to stock up in advance necessary tools, correctly calculate the amount of materials, carefully prepare the surface.

Advice. New wooden houses are subject to shrinkage, so it is best to start insulation and exterior finishing a couple of years after the construction of the structure.

Tools and materials

In the process of arranging thermal insulation you will need:

To find out how many slabs will be needed for insulation, you need to calculate total area walls, subtract the area of ​​the openings from it and divide by the area of ​​one slab.

Usually the slabs have standard sizes 1200x600 mm, that is, the area is 0.72 m2. Having determined the estimated quantity, you need to increase it by 5-7%, since part of the material will be used for trimming near the openings. If the insulation is planned to be laid in 2 layers, the resulting number is multiplied by 2.

The lathing can be assembled from metal profiles, but for wooden walls a beam with a cross-section of 50x50 mm is more suitable.

Prices for various types of timber

For a double layer of insulation, you should take a beam with a cross-section of 100x50 or 100x40 mm and install it on the edge.

The lumber must be dry, smooth, without defects; before starting work, it must be treated with antiseptic impregnation and dried.

Preparing the base

Insulation of the house from the outside should be carried out in dry, warm weather so that the walls are not damp or frozen. The surface should be free of dirt, dust, moss, fungi and mold. Interventional seams must be carefully inspected and, where there are voids, re-sealed with sealant and covered with sealant. Deep cracks in the wood itself are also sealed in the same way.

The next stage is priming. The primer is applied with a brush, carefully treating all the recesses, irregularities, and end cuts of the logs. If the wood absorbs the composition too quickly, it is recommended to apply a primer in 2 layers. After this, you need to wait until the surface is completely dry and only then begin the main process.

Prices for wood preservatives

Wall insulation

Step 1. A vapor barrier layer is attached. The membrane is located in horizontal stripes, starting from the bottom of the walls, and is fixed with staplers. The upper fabric should overlap the lower one by 10-15 cm, the joint is taped along the entire length.

Advice. Do not replace the membrane with ordinary polyethylene film. Polyethylene is vapor-proof, so the fumes will settle on the walls as condensation, causing damage to the wood. The membrane is inexpensive and can be bought at any hardware store, so there is no benefit from using polyethylene.

Step 2. The outer beams of the sheathing are leveled at a distance of 5-10 cm from the corner and screwed to the walls with self-tapping screws. The remaining guides are attached so that the distance between them is 10 mm less than the width of the insulation. Each rack is controlled by a level so that all sheathing elements are located in the same plane.

Step 3. Mineral wool slabs are placed tightly into the cells of the sheathing, trying not to leave gaps, and then additionally fixed with disc dowels. The second layer of insulation must be laid so that the joints between the slabs of the first layer overlap.

Laying mineral wool slabs. In the photo you can see the mistake of the builders - the absence of an insulating membrane between the wool and wooden wall

Step 4. The protective membrane is again attached over the insulation, securing it with staples in the same way and gluing the joints with tape. The material sheets should fit snugly to the base, without sagging or folds.

You can also use another method - frameless, when instead of timber guides, metal U-shaped suspensions are attached to the walls at equal distances. Neat slits are made in the mineral slabs with a mounting knife and the hanger ears are threaded through them. Additionally, the insulation is fixed with mushroom dowels. The thermal insulation is covered with a membrane on top, and a sheathing made of timber or profile is mounted on the hangers.

Prices for vapor barrier materials

Vapor barrier material

Ecowool insulation

Markings are made on the walls for the sheathing and vertical guides made of timber are installed. The distance between them is 50-60 cm. Next, the sheathing is covered with moisture-resistant OSB boards, but not to the full height, but about 80-100 cm from the ground. Be sure to sew up the bottom with boards. Next you will need a large wide container and a drill with a mixer attachment. The ecowool is unpacked, poured into a container, and fluffed with a mixer at low speed so that no lumps remain.

The prepared insulation is poured between the wall and the sheathing, and carefully compacted, carefully filling the corners and recesses. When the cavity is filled almost to the top, the next row of sheathing is fastened, controlling the position of the slabs by level. It is most difficult to distribute the insulation at the very top of the sheathing, so you need to work slowly, very carefully, trying to compact the material as much as possible. After fastening top sheets The sheathing is primed and finishing is begun.

It is more effective to apply ecowool using a wet method using an installation. In this case, the guide posts are mounted in increments of 1-1.2 m. The insulation is poured into a container and water is added in small portions until the mass becomes sticky. Next, using the installation, ecowool is applied to the walls in a continuous, uniform layer and left until completely dry. Excess material protruding above the plane of the frame is carefully cut off. After the thermal insulation has dried, a windproof membrane is attached and the finishing is performed.

Video - How to insulate a wooden house from the outside

Video - Insulation of walls with ecowool

The user dug up the foundation a little so as not to cut the extruded polystyrene foam, and the insulation board stood up completely. Then he cleaned the foundation of dirt, drilled holes with a hammer drill, glued the thermal insulation onto cement foam and secured the slabs with mushroom dowels.

To reinforce the blind area, a masonry mesh made of wire with a diameter of 3 mm and a mesh size of 10x10 cm was laid out over the thermal insulation layer. The reinforcing mesh was passed through temperature-compensating liners - an ordinary board.

This article talks about.

Installation of metal siding and installation of a ventilated facade

The key feature of a hinged ventilated façade is the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation (protected by a moisture- and wind-proof membrane) and the external finishing, for example, siding panels.

A gap (approximately 4-5 cm) allows steam and moisture to be freely removed (aired) through the ventilation duct.

ZlojGenij

To install the suspended ventilated façade, I chose metal siding, profileL-beam. It has its own editing subsystem. To save money, I decided to use the ceiling profile used for interior work for installation gypsum fiber sheet. Profile thickness 2 mm.

The profile is attached to hangers installed on the plinth. To evenly distribute the load vertically across the hangers, the user spliced ​​the profiles together.

All work on installing guides under the ventilation façade is divided into a number of sequential steps:

• We mount the outer profiles.
• We stretch the string between them.
• We install the remaining profiles according to the markings.

After this, the user carefully measured all the dimensions of the house, including the “dressing room”, and ordered a calculation from the company required quantity siding.

Metal siding is made to fit the specific dimensions of the house, which minimizes the amount of trim.

After purchasing siding ZlojGenij I started installing the window trims because... This is a complex element and, according to technology, they must be installed before installing the siding.

First, the lower ebb is installed, then the upper ebb, then the sides are mounted. The whole process is also divided into sequential operations:

1. We measure the distance between the profiles and transfer them to the casting blank.

2. Leave 2-3 cm for the hem of the metal.

3. Then we cut and bend.

The user used pliers and metal scissors to bend and cut metal. The outer side of the ebb is not immediately trimmed, because this is done with the sidewalls installed.

The upper part of the ebb is made similarly to the lower part.

The manufacturing process of the side parts is clearly demonstrated by the following photographs.

The result should be a node like this.

When building a private house, both the developer and the future owner of the cottage must pay great attention to the issue of thermal insulation and ensuring comfortable living conditions even in the most extreme cold. This fully applies to buildings made of log house or timber. But at the same time, such cottages have their own specifics, determined by the material from which they are built. It cannot be ignored - otherwise it will negatively affect the durability of the walls and finishing of buildings made of logs and timber. Therefore, deciding how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what is not so easy and you need to approach this matter in detail.

When carrying out measures for installing thermal insulation in a house made of timber or logs, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of wood as a material. There are many of them, but the main ones are two - high vapor permeability and susceptibility to fungus and other microorganisms.

The first means that wood absorbs and transmits moisture well, both from the inside and outside. Accordingly, insulation for a house built from timber or logs must have comparable vapor permeability indicators - otherwise the walls will gradually become damp, rot and become unusable. In addition, there is a need for a ventilation gap between the external finish and the insulation - without it, the latter will absorb too much water and lose its thermal insulation qualities.

And the second feature of wood, associated with the susceptibility of the material to fungus and microorganisms, requires mandatory treatment of all walls and parts of the thermal insulation system antiseptic compounds, and in several layers.

Insulation of a private house can be divided into two types.

1. Internal, when a layer of heat-insulating material is located on the side of the living quarters and is covered with plasterboard, clapboard or any other finishing material.
2. External when thermal insulation is located on the walls on the street side. From above it is covered with a windproof film and external finishing, which can be boards, siding, corrugated sheets, fake diamond and so on.

Internal insulation in wooden houses is usually used when there is a need to preserve appearance wood-like buildings. This usually applies to log houses.

But at the same time similar system thermal insulation has a number of disadvantages:

• decrease usable area residential premises;
• suboptimal dew point position, leading to dampness and condensation;
• gradual destruction of walls with outside caused by temperature changes.

Therefore, it seems like a more preferable option external insulation. Such a solution has the following advantages.

1. Saving living space– the insulation layer and the frame under it are located outside, which means you save several square meters inside the house.
2. Dew point shift outside the walls of the house– with good external thermal insulation along the entire thickness of the wall made of timber or logs, the temperature will be above zero. Consequently, condensation will not fall on the wall from the inside, there will be less dampness, and the service life of the structures will be longer.
3. By shifting the dew point and using ventilated façade technology The risk of mold and rot is significantly reduced.
4. Walls made of timber or logs can serve interior decoration premises, the original “texture” of a country cottage is preserved.

Due to these advantages, the article will focus on how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and what materials are suitable for this.

General arrangement of external insulation of a wooden house

From a security point of view high-quality thermal insulation and to prevent the appearance of dampness/condensation on the wall and in the insulation, the most preferable way to protect the house from the cold is to install a ventilated façade. Regardless of the material used, the design is “ layered cake"consisting of the following elements:

• load-bearing wall of a house made of timber or logs;
• frame for insulation, created from timber or metal profiles;
• layer thermal insulation material and fasteners for it;
• windproof membrane film or windproof board;
• sheathing under external finishing;
• exterior decoration of the house.

At the same time, between the insulation and the external finishing of the wooden house due to the sheathing, a ventilation gap, which ensures effective removal of flags and reduces the risk of condensation and dampness.

Important! Special attention should be paid to such an issue as the availability vapor barrier film between a wooden wall and insulation. This film has been the subject of controversy for quite some time. Some craftsmen argue that a vapor barrier between the wall and the insulation is necessary, otherwise the thermal insulation material will quickly become damp due to moisture coming from the house. Others are of the opposite opinion and say that the vapor barrier will disrupt the removal of moisture from the walls of the house, condensation will appear between it and the insulation, and then mold. Taking into account both of these opinions, we can say that it is possible to install a film to protect thermal insulation material from dampness, but only if there is good ventilation in the house and a gap between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

Prices for dowels for insulation

Dowel umbrella

You can familiarize yourself with the materials used to insulate a wooden house from the outside from the table below and in subsequent sections of the article.

Table. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside - basic materials.

Material name	Short description
	Rolls and slabs of thin fibers of basalt and other minerals.
	Soft fibreboard, made from ground wood. Does not contain glue or chemical binders. It has high density and vapor permeability.
	Round porous cells of expanded polystyrene bonded into slabs.
	A type of polystyrene foam made using a slightly different technology. It is distinguished by greater density and better thermal insulation qualities.
	Paper and fabric processed into cellulose with additives that prevent caking, rotting and rodents.

What material to choose for external insulation of a wooden house

Before you start insulating a wooden house, you need to decide what exactly to do it with, i.e. what material. You can see the options available to most in the table from the previous section. These are mineral wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Let's look at them in a little more detail.

Mineral wool is a combination of many fibers obtained from melts of various rocks. As in cellulose wadding, between the fibers there is a large number of air, due to which the material acquires its heat-insulating qualities.

The following advantages speak in favor of mineral wool as insulation for a wooden house:

• ease of installation;
• availability;
• non-flammable - mineral wool melts only at very high temperatures;
• vapor permeability at the level of wood;
• excellent heat and sound insulation qualities.

But it is worth considering that mineral wool absorbs moisture well and at the same time greatly loses its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the outside of the insulation must be protected with a membrane windproof film.

A good option for insulating a wooden house is Isoplat soft fiberboard. It is made " wet method» from ground fiber coniferous species trees without adding glue or other chemical binders. Due to this, the slab works efficiently in humid and cold climates and does not delaminate due to temperature changes. The top of the board is treated with paraffin to protect it from atmospheric humidity. The Izoplat plate has a high vapor permeability rate, which means it prevents the walls from becoming damp and the formation of fungus and mold. By thermal insulation properties 25 cm of material is comparable to 88 mm of solid wood. Isoplat also has a high level of sound insulation, which means the house will become much quieter and more comfortable.

Insulation of a wooden house with Izoplat slabs

Other insulation options for a wooden house are polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Both are polymers consisting of cells glued together with many pores and voids. The latter, filled with air, provide the material with high thermal insulation qualities. Extruded polystyrene foam is made using a slightly different technology than regular polystyrene foam, due to which the material is denser and its cells are smaller. The material itself becomes stronger, but also retains its thermal insulation qualities.

Foam insulation - no the best option for a wooden house, but many resort to this solution due to the low cost of thermal insulation material

However, both polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam have a serious drawback, which makes their use as insulation for a wooden house questionable - low vapor permeability. Moisture and water vapor penetrate these materials very poorly. Therefore, if a wooden house is insulated with polystyrene foam, there will definitely be a problem between the wall and the thermal insulation layer. humid environment, favorable for the development of fungi and other microorganisms and, as a result, for rotting and damage to wood.

According to environmentalists, up to 40% of heat and electricity generated in the northern hemisphere is spent on heating residential, industrial and other facilities. For this reason high-quality insulation buildings brings tangible benefits in terms of financial savings and living comfort. One of the most popular heat insulators is (expanded polystyrene, EPS).

Another insulation option is ecowool. This material is obtained from paper and textile waste that is turned into cellulose. But at the same time, it is supplemented with additives that protect the material from caking, rotting, burning and make it unattractive to insects and rodents. It has excellent thermal insulation properties. But at the same time, the method of laying it differs from mineral wool and polystyrene foam - ecowool in liquid form is sprayed onto the surface of wooden walls between the sheathing elements using special equipment. The material then sets, dries and becomes a very durable layer of thermal insulation. However, you need to understand that without the help of a specialist, ecowool insulation will be impossible.

Now that you know more about the materials used for thermal insulation of cottages made of timber or logs, let's begin to describe how the insulation process should be carried out.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Video - Insulating the walls of a house from the outside

Insulation of a wooden house with Isoplat

It is very easy to insulate a wooden house with Isoplat. The plate is a dense, but at the same time elastic material. It is enough to simply press it against the wall and nail it with nails with a wide flat head. Isoplat fits securely to the base and prevents the appearance of “cold bridges”. A ventilated facade is installed on top of the slab. In addition, Izoplat slabs of 25 mm or more can be covered with plaster. Insulation in this way can be done independently without the involvement of specialists. This is the fastest, easiest and most reliable option for insulating a wooden house.

It is very simple to insulate a wooden house with Izoplat slabs

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool

Let's look at how to perform one of the most popular ways insulate a wooden house from the outside using mineral wool slabs.

Calculation of the amount of insulation

Work begins with calculating the required amount of insulation. To do this, calculate how many square meters of the house there are surfaces to be covered with mineral wool. This problem is solved using the following algorithm.

Step 1. Calculate the height of the walls from the base to the beginning of the pediment. If one part of the house is one-story, and the second is two-story, perform calculations for them separately.

Step 2. Determine the perimeter of the walls by calculating their length.

Step 3. Multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height and subtract the area of ​​the openings from the resulting figure - this will give you the approximate surface area to be insulated. But the calculations do not end there.

Step 4. Using formulas for determining the area of ​​a triangle, calculate how many square meters there are in your gables (if you are going to insulate them too), and sum the resulting figure with the result of the calculations from the previous step.

Determining the area of ​​a wall, a simple pediment in the form of an isosceles triangle and a pediment complex shape(which is the sum of a trapezoid and a triangle)

Step 5. Determine what brand and size of mineral wool you choose. Divide the total insulation area by the area of ​​each individual insulation board. Then increase the result by 10-15% for reserve. The figure you receive is the number of mineral wool slabs that will be needed for one layer of external insulation of a wooden house. Please keep in mind that several insulation panels are sold in one package and, as a rule, it is written on them how many square meters this pack is designed for.

Mineral wool ROCKWOOL Light Butts. One such pack contains six slabs with a thickness of 50 mm and dimensions of 600x800 mm. Their total area is 2.88 square meters.

Step 6. Determine how thick the insulation should be. As a rule, in the southern regions it is 50 mm, in middle lane– 100 mm, in Siberia and northern latitudes – 150 mm. If it is impossible to perform insulation in one layer in your case, double the number of mineral wool slabs from the previous operation.

List of tools

First of all, you will need something that can be used to cut and saw the sheathing materials. If the frame for the insulation is made of wood, it will cope with this task perfectly electric jigsaw with matching blade. But in the case when the lathing is made of metal profile, it is better to give preference metal scissors.

Prices for popular models of jigsaws

Jigsaw

Important! Using a grinder to cut a profile into a frame for insulation is acceptable, but undesirable - in the process of such sawing the external anti-corrosion coating, which significantly reduces the service life of the future structure.

Next, you will need a tool for screwing self-tapping screws into wood or metal. Considering that the insulation work is carried out with a house made of timber or logs, to complete this task it will be quite enough only screwdriver and set of attachments. Choose a tool with a battery - the wire will not dangle under your feet and get in the way.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Advice! Experienced craftsmen use a screwdriver with two batteries. While one is working, the second is charging. Then they change places, and the person gets the opportunity to install the sheathing for insulation without stopping and wasting time.

To fit some wood sheathing pieces or to work with disc dowels, you will need hammer or rubber mallet.

One of indispensable tools For construction work is a knife for cutting mineral wool. You will need it to open packages of mineral wool and to cut slabs of this material. Alternatively, you can use construction knife with retractable blade.

Attaching a windproof membrane film to the insulation sheathing requires construction stapler and staple set.

The sheathing for insulation should be as straight as possible horizontally and vertically. This is almost impossible to achieve by eye, so be sure to use building level and plumb.

The wall of the house itself is made of timber or logs and that’s it wooden elements lathing requires the mandatory application of several layers of antiseptic to protect the materials from rotting. For this you will need container and roller. But if you want to do everything quickly, use spray paint.

Both before and during work on insulating a wooden house, a craftsman may need to apply various marks, measure distances and create records. These tasks are successfully completed using a pencil, several sheets of paper (or one notebook), a tape measure and a carpenter's square.

Laying mineral wool on a wooden frame

Let's first consider the most common option, when mineral wool is laid between the elements of the sheathing made of wooden beams.

Step 1. Prepare the walls - remove all protruding elements from their surface, if any. These could be shutters, ebbs, decorative details, etc. Then treat the wall with an antiseptic and fire retardant, preferably 2-3 times. Apply a new layer only after the previous one has completely dried.

Important! When working with a log house, pay special attention to processing the corners and end parts of the logs - they are the ones most susceptible to fungi and other microorganisms.

Step 2. Make the sheathing. For her, take the most quality timber, in this case, products with a cross section of 30x30 mm are used. The wood should not show signs of fungus or rot. First, install the upper and lower bars, secure them with galvanized self-tapping screws (it is not advisable to use others due to corrosion). Then install horizontal elements lathing, between which the first layer of mineral wool will be laid. The interval between the beams should be approximately 5 mm less than the height of the insulation slab - this is necessary to secure the material more tightly and eliminate gaps.

Step 3. On top of the first “layer” of the sheathing, secure the second one, where the elements are located perpendicularly. In this case they are mounted vertically. Also, do not forget to secure the bars around the perimeter of window and door openings.

Step 4. Unpack and prepare the mineral wool slabs. If necessary, cut them into pieces for installation around openings and other places where full-size insulation elements will not fit. Install the slabs between the sheathing elements of the first layer, making sure that they fit tightly there. Secure them with disc-shaped dowels. Then, using the same principle, lay the slabs of the second layer of insulation. It is desirable that they overlap the horizontal seams between the mineral wool sheets of the previous layer.

Prices for mineral wool

Step 5. Place and secure a windproof membrane on top of the insulation. Join its individual sections together with an overlap of about 10 cm (as a rule, there is a special marking on the film for this purpose). Attach the membrane to the sheathing with a construction stapler, and cover the joints with special adhesive tape. Special attention When working with windproof film, pay attention to openings that also need to be covered.

Step 6. Fix thick slats on top of the windproof film onto the wooden elements of the insulation sheathing, which will hold the exterior trim of the house.

Step 7 Lay the exterior trim on the mounted slats. In this case, boards are used for this. Then install other exposed features such as window and rain caps, shutters, trim, trim and more.

Laying mineral wool on brackets

Now let's look at another option for external insulation of a house. Here the mineral wool is attached not to the sheathing, but to metal brackets.

Step 1. Prepare the walls - treat them with antiseptic and fire retardant. Next, unpack the mounting brackets and calculate how many you need.

Step 2. Attach the metal brackets to the wall using two long roofing screws with press washers. Since the house will subsequently be finished with siding, the fastening elements are located in increments corresponding to the interval between the sheathing elements for the vinyl panels.

Important! To ensure better sound and heat insulation, place small pieces of paronite under the part of the brackets that touches the wood.

Step 3. Unpack the mineral wool, check the quality of the insulation and prepare it for installation.

Step 4. Install mineral wool slabs on the walls. To do this, place them on the brackets mounted in the previous stages of work. The holes for this can either be pressed through with the fasteners themselves, or cut with a knife.

Step 5. For better fixation, screw the disc dowels evenly over the area of ​​each individual slab.

Step 6. Repeat the previous two operations for all walls and gables of the house.

Step 7 Lay a windproof film over the insulation layer. Secure it with overlapping disc dowels.

Step 8 Using a knife or scissors, cut slots in the windproof film through which the ends of the brackets should pass.

Step 9 Prepare, cut and secure the vertical and horizontal elements of the metal profile sheathing to the brackets using self-tapping screws. In this case, it is very important to achieve the evenness of each individual rack or beam using a plumb line and a building level.

Step 10 On the sheathing installed in the previous operation, install the exterior trim. In this case, these are vinyl siding panels.

With a competent approach to the matter, external insulation of a wooden house will provide you with coziness and comfort of living in a new place.

– this is the placement of a thermal layer inside the wall frame. In some situations, it is necessary to reduce heat loss as much as possible by adding internal thermal insulation external. We will figure out how and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside, evaluate the characteristics, features of operation and installation of different materials.

Specifics of insulating frame houses from the outside

In quickly erected buildings using Scandinavian or American technology, the role of heat insulator is assigned directly to wall panels. The insulation is mounted between the frame posts and covered with rough sheathing - wood-fiber panels, OSB boards etc.

However, if the work is performed poorly or the thickness or density of the insulation is incorrectly selected, the house may not retain heat well. To reduce energy costs and improve the indoor microclimate in winter, additional insulation is required.

A set of requirements is put forward for a heat insulator for external walls:

1. Low thermal conductivity. Among the insulation materials that can boast of this property are: polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
2. Minimal water absorption. Despite the additional protection of the thermal insulation layer from water, the insulation, one way or another, will come into contact with water vapor. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a material with low hygroscopicity.
3. Fire safety. It is optimal if the insulation has the ability to self-extinguish, does not contribute to the spread of fire and produces little smoke when burning.
4. Light weight. Frames are erected on a lightweight foundation and are not designed for significant loads.

Besides, facade insulation For exterior finishing at home it should hold its linear dimensions well and not shrink. Additional requirements: environmental friendliness and affordable cost.

Choosing thermal insulation: characteristics and features of materials

The optimal insulation option for outdoor use in frame construction – basalt wool. The material is thermally efficient and fireproof, but quite expensive. If you are on a limited budget, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam with fire retardants is suitable.

Video: insulating the facade using the “wet” method