Perhaps this information will be useful. By the way, this problem is familiar not only to Toyota car owners. So.Everything is fine with the rods, but the door does not respond to the central locking. It feels like the electric drive doesn't have enough power. In my case it was exactly like that.
The electric door lock motor is to blame. This motor is located in the plastic housing of the electric drive mechanism. The body is collapsible. Opens with a wide flat screwdriver. Now we take out the motor itself and disassemble it. Now you can see that one contact is connected directly, and the second through a small plate. This plate is a self-resetting fuse. The fact is that a fairly strong spring is installed in the electric drive mechanism, which returns the lock tongue to its original position. And the motor must be powerful enough to compress it. In order, apparently, to prevent the motor from burning out, this fuse is installed. It works as follows: when current passes through it, it heats up and increases resistance. As it cools down, the resistance is restored. Heating and cooling occurs in less than a second. Therefore, if you test the motor by simply connecting 12V to it, you will see how it spins with a noticeable slowdown. Over time, this fuse (maybe from overheating, maybe from something else) loses its recovery properties and greatly increases the resistance. Therefore, when passing the test described above, you can see how sluggishly the motor with the damaged fuse rotates and after one and a half seconds it stops altogether. Naturally, this force is not enough to overcome the force of the spring to open/close the door lock. So, the direct culprit has been discovered.
However, replacing this fuse is not a very easy task (I never succeeded). The variety of such fuses, depending on the characteristics, is very large, and their presence in radio and electrical goods is extremely negligible. I also couldn’t replace the entire motor - it’s a different shape and doesn’t fit into the body (I really didn’t want to cut the body), it dangles and falls off, it’s not powerful enough, etc. and so on. It is not difficult to change the entire mechanism. The question price on the existential is 1500 rubles. But this method has been postponed as the most extreme and expensive.
Having once again tested the pulse during which current is supplied to the electric drive of the lock when the central lock is activated, and it also lasts less than a second, it was decided that nothing would happen to this motor in a split second (the main thing is to open and close the locks without fanaticism). After consulting with electronics engineers, the answer was received that nothing bad would happen with the electronic control of the central locking in such a short period of time. So, as you understand, it was decided to short-circuit the second contact. Those. the plate (self-resetting fuse) was removed, wrapped in foil and inserted into place. The tests showed not bad results. Not bad - because when the motor was running, a little smoke came out of it, but the motor did not heat up, and the cranking force was enough to compress the spring.
Then we carefully assemble everything, and preferably in such a way that there are no unnecessary parts left ;). It is not enough just to snap the plastic body of the mechanism into place; it needs to be glued. Otherwise, the case will crumble in the closed door, and it will be very, very difficult to open it.
Now we very carefully install the mechanism in the door, carefully monitoring all the details and rods of the mechanism (don’t forget to connect everything, tuck it in, slide it in, tighten it, etc.) That’s it! Your car is ready for full use.
Good luck on the roads of our vast homeland and thanks to the Internet for everything!
Attention: Using the tips I have posted here, you do so at your own peril and risk! I confirm that everything has been working for me for a month now, and I hope it will continue to work, ugh x 3.
This article will discuss the problems of central locking on conventional activators.
The photographs show conventional central locking activators.
The diagram below shows the connection of four activators to the relays built into the alarm. Sometimes these relays are called built-in central locking interface. But they may not be in the alarm system, then there are at least two low-current outputs for controlling external relays. An example of built-in relays is the Fortress alarm; on the contrary, the absence of relays is the Cher Khan 2 or Excallibur ATV900 alarm.
According to the diagram, if points B1 and B2 are connected to the connector, then external relays are connected to them and, accordingly, B1 will be an unlocking contact, and B2 will be a locking contact. Point A may or may not be output to the connector. In the latter case, the power for the common point (A) of the relay is taken from the alarm power supply or from the power supply of the activators (at one of the points D).
Brief description of how the circuit works.
The central locking opening/closing control pulse arrives at point B1 or B2. The corresponding relay is activated.
The activators themselves are switched by power relay contacts. One relay and its power contacts are called the locking relay, the other is the unlocking relay. From the diagram it can be seen that the activators are connected to the 30th contacts of the relay and in a quiet state there is ground at both terminals of the activator through the normally closed 87a contacts. Now, if any relay is triggered (pin 30 is briefly connected to the positive on pin 87), then voltage will be briefly applied to the corresponding terminal of the activator and, accordingly, the activator rod extends or retracts, thereby closing or opening the door lock. Since all activators are connected in parallel, all doors will open (close).
Let's look at the options for a central locking malfunction.
Troubleshooting.
It is better to start troubleshooting with the power wires.
It is more convenient to troubleshoot with an LED probe and a dial multimeter. It must be noted that both tools have their drawbacks when conducting an audit. The LED at a voltage of 1-1.5 volts will not light up and will not show a voltage drop from 12 to 10 volts, and the pointer device, due to its inertia, will not have time to respond to short central locking control pulses.
Let's start checking.
Power must be supplied to the fuse block.
The fuse must be intact.
If the fuse is blown, use an ohmmeter to check the circuit of points D... for a short circuit with the vehicle ground; if a ground is detected, check the wires and eliminate the short circuit. The relay may be faulty, contacts are stuck, see.
We insert the fuse. We are trying to get the central locking from the key fob to work.
If you cannot hear the relay clicks, you need to check the power at point A and the control at points B1 and B2.
The relay clicks, the fuse is intact, the central locking does not work.
- We check the power supply at points D... and at contacts 87 of both relays. If there is power before operation, but when the relay is activated, it disappears, then there is poor contact in the power circuit, from the point where the fuse is connected to the relay contacts themselves.
- Using a LED probe, we check the power mass at points E and up to contacts 87a of the relay. If the LED on the ground wire lights up when the relay is activated, it means there is a bad ground on the body, connectors or other connections.
- We check the power control pulses on the 30th relay contacts. If there are no pulses, then there may be carbon deposits on the relay contacts, see article.
If pulses are present, then the wires may break in the area from the 30th relay contacts to the activators themselves (the activator winding may break).
If, during sequential checks at points C1-2 and C2-2, when closing or opening on both plus appears on the wires at the same time, which means one of the wires is broken, before inspection places.
The fuse burns out when the central locking is activated one or more times. As mentioned above, this is a short circuit between the activator wires, or both wires are frayed and shorted to ground, or one of the control power wires is shorted to ground.
In the photo you can see a poor quality transition of a VAZ car. Such wiring causes the above defect.
Five-wire activator.
The two wires of this activator are, as usual, power control. The remaining three wires are connected to a microswitch inside the activator.
One of the three wires is the central contact and, depending on the position of the activator rod, is closed to one of the remaining two wires.
This activator is also called a master lock. Using a separate central locking module, you can organize the closing of all doors by controlling, or mechanically with a key, or by pressing the driver's door lock button in the passenger compartment. This method of controlling the central lock is also used by domestic manufacturers.
Central locking modules may differ slightly in control signals; this will be discussed below. Here we can add that some alarms have a separate wire to implement a similar function (for example, Fortress F1).
This control method has a drawback. When the cylinder is turned, all the locks will open at once, although it is better to protect the car if the locks are opened in stages and closed simultaneously.
And another drawback is the accurate and reliable adjustment of the mechanical fastening of the rod. If the movement of the activator rod is not complete or on the verge of operation, then in some cases it is possible that all the doors will either not close or not open. The most unpleasant thing is that opening can happen accidentally in the absence of the owner. This is especially true on domestic cars, where there are always backlashes, gaps, and cracks into which dirt gets in and deposits on the lubricant, preventing reliable operation of the activator, not to mention corrosion of mechanical parts.
Factory central locking for domestic cars.
Modern domestic cars are increasingly equipped with a central lock, which is controlled by the key from the driver's door or by raising and lowering the lock button in the driver's door. I have come across three options for implementing the central locking function.
The first option - a conventional two-wire activator was installed in three doors of the car, and a five-wire master lock was installed in the driver's door.
The central wire of the microswitch of the master lock is connected to ground (usually black), the remaining control wires (white and brown) to the central locking unit. Depending on the presence of a ground signal on one or another control wire, the central locking module will give a command via the power wires to “close or open” to all activators. In this (initial in production) version, the additional alarm was simply connected to these wires and controlled by a ground signal.
The second control option is similar to the first, but in order to control the activators, it was not enough to send a ground signal to the wire, for example, “closing”; you must first disconnect the “opening” wire from ground. This is what happens if you control it with a key or a door lock button, but connecting the alarm is a little more difficult.
There are two alarm connection schemes in these cases. In the first case, switching the low-current control circuit and when the central locking alarm unit is removed does not work completely. In the second case, the driver's door activator is cut off from the common power circuit and its control is transferred to the alarm; when the alarm unit is removed, the operation of the central locking does not change.
Also, the VAZ manufacturer wanted to save money on the driver’s door activator and began to insert only a switch there. In this case, for complete central locking, it is necessary to install an additional conventional activator in the door by connecting it to the standard wires. And cut off the power control of the driver's door activator from the common wiring and transfer it to the alarm system as in the diagram of the second option (see above). The additional activator will control the alarm via mechanics, the central locking switch and, accordingly, the remaining doors.
The last third option is the central locking module of the Volga car.
The driver's door of the Volga also has a five-wire master lock, controlled by one wire. More precisely, by the presence or absence of a ground signal on this wire. The central contact of the activator microswitch is connected to ground. The connection diagram is as follows.
The disadvantages of this option are similar to those described above.
Mechanical problems.
Mechanical faults have already been mentioned several times above, but I’ll repeat them anyway.
Incorrect installation of activators, backlash and gaps in mechanisms, moisture and dirt getting into mechanisms, corrosion and rust, poor quality activators from a domestic or Chinese manufacturer.
An example of installing activators.
Send questions, comments and suggestions regarding the article.
Possible diagrams of various connections will be placed gradually in the article "Interesting schemes".
The comfort of modern cars is impressive, and every year the quality of comfort options improves, and the list is replenished with more and more new features. However, along with additional amenities, car owners quite often get a lot of trouble from an overabundance of electronics and “overly smart” systems.
Against the backdrop of ultra-modern and newfangled systems, the central lock looks somewhat archaic and primitive, since this assistant appeared quite a long time ago and today its presence will no longer surprise anyone. However, despite the simplicity of its design, which against the backdrop of today’s electronics seems simply medieval, the central lock (CL) quite often fails, which causes a lot of trouble for its owner.
Over the many years of its existence, the central locking system has seriously evolved, as well as the central locking control system.
The central locking guards the vehicle's security and protects the vehicle from unauthorized entry into the interior by strangers from the outside. In addition, the central locking system is very convenient, since it allows you to close all the car doors at once, including the trunk, with one movement. Initially, closing was done by turning the key in the keyhole in one of the doors. However, over time, even this seemingly easy and simple movement was replaced by an even simpler one; now, in order to activate the central locking, the driver does not need to insert the key at all, moreover, he does not need to approach the car. Closing and opening of all doors is carried out using a special remote control, which activates and deactivates the central locking using a coded signal. This signal is encrypted and is recognized only by the control unit and the key; communication between the key and the unit is carried out “over the air”.
More details about the central locking device
The central lock consists of:
- Control unit;
- Input sensors (microswitches);
- Executive devices.
The control unit is the brain center that manages signals, sends commands to actuators and analyzes the operation of the system. The unit processes the encrypted signal, after which it decides whether it is possible to close or open the doors and other elements under the control of the central locking system (glass, hatch, trunk, hood, etc.).
Input sensors or microswitches, as they are also called, work in tandem with limit switches (limit switches) of door locks. After the control unit has “allowed” the door to open or close, microswitches fix the position of the locks.
Actuators are locking devices, in other words, door locks. The opening of the locks occurs through the activation of microswitches, which in turn received a command from the “brains” of the central locking system. Thus, locks are the last link in this entire chain.
It should be noted that the central locking is not connected to the engine, unlike the car alarm, which will not allow the engine to start if the lock is not removed. If the central locking system uses a remote control, it is powered by a battery.
Central locking faults
The failure of any system can occur suddenly, but often future breakdowns can be prevented by a number of minor failures that are harbingers of serious problems.
Among these reasons are:
- Lock malfunctions . When locks are difficult to open or not the first time. Arbitrary closing and opening of locks. Locking of locks, refusal to respond and any commands. In such cases, you often have to break the glass if there are no additional keys or the car does not respond to the key. If you cannot open the door from the inside, you can try to disassemble the door card.
- Partial failure . Locks and working mechanisms periodically fail and stop working normally. There may be interruptions during signal reception.
- Complete central locking failure . Complete incapacity of the central locking system, in which the central locking system does not respond to either the button or the key; the unit does not accept or understand commands coming from the key. Often the reason is quite banal - a dead key fob battery, which does not allow sending a signal or leads to it happening incorrectly.
The central locking does not work - we are looking for the reason!
Central locking + alarm testing
Quite often, the central locking system is supplemented with an alarm system, so at the first sign of incorrect operation, you should check the “signaling system”; it is often the cause of all the troubles. If the locks do not work “from the key fob,” try closing them with a key, that is, by placing the key in the keyhole.
If the central locking does not work only “from the key fob”, while everything is opened with the key, you should check the battery, as well as other control circuits of the alarm.
The central lock does not close or open, it does not work completely
If during the test the central locking does not work correctly or is unstable, both manually and remotely, in order to make a “verdict” it is necessary to clarify some nuances. For example, where did the failure occur, are any clicks heard, or do the door lock buttons move when trying to lock the doors. You should check the central locking fuse, as well as other electrical circuits that may be involved in this.
The fuses are ok, but the central locking does not work
If the fuses are normal, but you still don’t know why the central locking system does not work, you should continue the diagnostics in order to understand the reason.
But the problem may actually lie in the locking devices, which could simply fail due to a lack of voltage on the driver's door activators. This happens due to poor contact, oxidation of terminals, and also in case of broken wires. In this case, the driver's door drive cannot send the incoming signal that goes from the remote control to the other doors of the vehicle. This phenomenon occurs in cases where the driver's door actuator limit switch is faulty. The control signal is not detected.
Repairing the central locking should begin with diagnosing the power supply, as well as the control signal. A visual check of the system wiring is necessary to check for poor connections or breaks. It is also imperative to check the limit switch installed inside the drive.
Central locking malfunctions: spontaneous locking or unlocking of doors
It is a common occurrence that after locking the central locking door locks “with a button”, after some time they open spontaneously. That is, the opening occurs even without a signal from the remote control. The reason for this phenomenon may be improper fixation of the rod fasteners, which are located between the drive and the driver's door lock mechanism. Thus, a violation of the opening and closing of doors occurs.
Possible malfunctions of the vacuum central locking
During periods of intense precipitation, as well as when the air temperature drops, interruptions in the operation of the central locking pump occur. The reason, as a rule, lies in the appearance of condensation, which occurs when there is a sharp temperature change. There is a malfunction of the contact of the driver's door actuator switch. The solution to this situation is as follows: the switch is dismantled, condensation is removed and the working surfaces are lubricated. In some cases, it is necessary to completely change the mechanism.
Door locks operate asynchronously, that is, not simultaneously.
Sometimes on some doors, the locking mechanisms do not work the same way or do not work at all, this may happen with some delay or not at all, as a result, the doors continue to remain open, even after the remote control has given the command to lock the doors. In this case, the compressor can continue to operate until the protection system turns it off. In such cases, the tightness of the connections of the vacuum tubes of the line is checked, as well as an inspection of the door line on which a similar phenomenon is observed. The search for damage is carried out by visual signs, as well as by ear, by the characteristic hissing of air being released. If damaged areas are found, repair or complete replacement should be performed.
The electrical wire in the door corrugation is damaged
The signals are sent to the pump control board, but it still continues to work, ignoring these commands. Such breakdowns require disassembling the compressor unit with subsequent cleaning of the oxidized terminals of the pneumatic sensor of the alarm system. If after the measures taken the situation has not changed, it can be assumed that the pump control board has failed.
Car central locking repair
From the above, we can conclude that electric central locking systems are very sensitive to temperature changes and wet weather, as well as to interruptions in the vehicle’s electrical circuit. At first, this manifests itself in “braking”, untimely operation, as well as periodic failures. Daily use of the central lock one way or another leads to wear of the working parts and gears, as well as the drive itself. Plastic mechanisms wear out due to stress, as well as lack of proper lubrication. Preventive maintenance of the central locking system allows you to prevent serious breakdowns, as well as extend the service life of the entire system as a whole. In addition, a working central locking and alarm system eliminate the possibility of unpleasant situations when you find yourself alone in the middle of a deserted highway with your unauthorized lock.
That's all for me, thank you for your attention, I look forward to your comments on this issue. Ask your questions, I will try to answer them. I also recommend that you subscribe to new, no less interesting publications on our site. I would be grateful if you share this article on social networks using the appropriate buttons located below. Bye!
Tell me, when the BC starts squealing about an open door, does the interior light come on? The fact is that the door limit switches go through the BC and the interior lamp (providing a smooth shutdown of the light (polite light)).
If there are problems with the switch or the lamp or LED lamp burns out, then there will be problems with arming, it will not see the closed door and will squeal.
Following. Does the central locking work when opening/closing with the key? The driver's door actuator has a switch that is connected to the central locking unit and provides opening/closing.
The central locking unit needs to be checked; it is located behind the shield near the gas pedal. The first thing you need to do is check the short-circuit fuse, number 2 in the picture, it is not on the block itself, but for some reason it was hung on a wire, you need to rummage through the wires coming from the fuse block. It's in a plastic capsule, I think it's easy to find. Don't forget to check the ground on the central locking
If it is working properly and there is 12 volts on the block (terminals 1, 2), you need to check the central locking unit itself. To do this, connect pin 5 and pin 7 (opening/closing) to ground in the block (ground pin 2 on the block). The actuators should work. There are also two fuses on the alarm, they hang directly on the wires, next to the alarm unit, but since you tore it out, they don’t count.
Check the above, unsubscribe, we will think further.
The situation started like this. I was driving calmly, downhill, everything was fine. Suddenly the car stalls while driving, jerking a little, as if it had run out of gas. I pulled down onto the sidewalk. I got on the emergency lights, tried to start it, it started and stalled. Then it stopped starting altogether. I opened the hood, checked the pressure in the rail, there was no pressure at all. I coast down the hill, roll to the gate of the car service (I knew it was there) and explain the problem to the smart service workers. They respond by saying that all the boxes are occupied, but anyway it’s the fuel pump that needs to be changed. I went to an auto store and bought a fuel pump, brought it in, and at the service center they just dismantled my old fuel pump, as always with VAZs there can be many options for spare parts. I bought the wrong fuel pump, changed it, brought it, installed it. I turn on the ignition, damn it, it doesn’t pump and doesn’t even show the gasoline level. The service center found some kind of fuel pump, installed it, also zero. They had a 10 there for repairs, they took it off. Also horseradish. 4 hours passed, all the car service workers, led by the SMARTEST foreman, stood near my car and wondered what was the matter. Having checked and called everything that could be called, it was of no use. Then the SMARTEST master called the SMARTEST master and he carefully hinted to check the signaling, BINGO! It turned out that the signal ground nut had unscrewed and the wiring (BITCH) had come off. He was brought in so that he would never turn away again. They installed my old but cleaned fuel pump and everything worked. The car started. I returned the new fuel pump to the store. I gave the service guys 500 rubles for 5.5 hours of work. I drove up to the house, saw a plastic cap from the ramp in the car, and decided to screw it on. I opened the hood and saw a pressure gauge screwed to the ramp, which the service workers had forgotten. I replaced the pressure gauge with a cap and took the pressure gauge to the service center. About a month has passed. History repeated itself, the car starts and stalls. The mass is screwed tightly, the fuel pump does not pump. Having rummaged around with my hands in the wires, under the panel, I just rummaged around at random and noticed that the fuel pump had begun to pump. The car started. I went. I went for about a week. Same story again. Well now I KNOW what to do. I fumbled again with my hand in the wires, under the panel. Started up. Let's go. But then one day, I approach the car, press the alarm button (the battery is new), the indicator lights up, the car does not open. The security is not removed. I opened it with the key. I sat down and inserted the key into the ignition. The alarm beeped. I turned off the alarm about the fifth time. But after 10 seconds, it turned on again. Turned it off. This was repeated 10 times. I got tired of it, I tore out the signal. I started the car and drove off. I drove for about 2 months. Suddenly, in a warm car, there was heat in the cabin. The indicator and the sound of the open driver's door are triggered (the interior light does not light up) and the power windows work at their own request. They want to work. They want to, but they don't work. The short circuit fuse is perfect. In general, this is how it all began, dear gooddi. Yes, by the way, the central locking did not work from the key (it never worked for me), but the tomahawk signaling system had feedback.
I just started reading, especially about the pressure gauge)))). The fact that the signal was not disarmed is one hundred percent that she did not see the open door, that is, the signal from the door switch did not pass through. That it has shorted to ground is not uncommon (oxidation of the limit switch contact), but it would be all four at once.
First, check all the masses. I can’t say for sure right now, but one wire is screwed to ground under the dashboard, above the fuse block (you can fumble with your hand, and you can see it), the other is screwed where the ECU is located, on the driver’s side.
There, in the harness, there is another insidious male-female connection (it seems to be a thick brown wire), I don’t remember the rest. Unscrew the fuse block (one screw where the cover lock is), the connectors at the bottom, check their condition, it is better to pull it out and inspect it.
Well, don’t forget the masses from the battery to the body and engine. It’s possible that you don’t have a DZ block; it’s often thrown away when installing the alarm. The fuel pump may not turn on due to the fact that the main relay does not turn on (turns on when the key is turned on) and if the pump relay does not turn on (turns on from the computer), provided that the main relay turns on.
Let's not overload you with information, otherwise we'll get confused. Start by grounding and checking the fuse box connectors. Based on the results, we will think further.
Well, in general, after some time, I also began to blame the door switch and the fuse block. Since, with the power windows not working, I once tried to pull the fuse block all the way down and they started working.
And recently, while driving, on the highway, two cylinders turned off, and stopping on the side of the road, with the engine running on two cylinders, I again pulled the fuse block all the way down and they turned on.
The engine started running smoothly on all cylinders. So tomorrow (it’s raining outside today) I’ll go to the dacha. I'll check the limit switch and unscrew the fuse box and check. And I’ll try to put the signaling in place and check the operation of the central locking system. Now, at the dachas, there is no one anyway, the alarm will scream only for me. At the same time I will change the front brake pads. I'll post the results tomorrow evening.
If the central locking (CL) does not work, then the driver cannot get inside the car. The article discusses the main types of malfunctions, how to open doors in case of malfunctions, and also provides recommendations for repairing vacuum and electric central locking systems.
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Types of faults
The central locking system installed on cars has the same operating principle and a similar connection diagram. Before starting repairs, you should find out how to disable the central locking and diagnose the equipment.
If the car has an alarm system, the central locking is controlled using a remote control - a key fob. When you press the keys, a signal is sent to the control unit and functions are adjusted. The activated central locking system opens the doors.
The central locking system includes switches, connecting wires and electric or vacuum type drives as common elements. Actuators are activators. The front doors have a central drive, which, when activated, sends electrical signals to close or open the remaining doors.
Causes of malfunctions
If the central locking stops working, you must first check the fuse box. Short circuits and various disturbances often occur in the central locking system, which leads to blown fuses.
The central lock does not operate when the battery is completely discharged. To check, you need to open the central locking with the key and try to start the car. If it does not start, then the reason is the battery is discharged.
The reason why the central locking system does not work may be due to a breakdown of the electronics. You can open the car without a key using the key fob. If the central locking does not open with the key fob, you should check the batteries and buttons of the key fob. They may stick and not work at the right time.
At the next stage, using the instructions, you should check the alarm control unit. It is possible that due to problems with it, the central locking works, but does not close all the doors. The last thing to check is the microboard, which is located on the activator motor, and at the same time the drive itself should be checked. Defective parts must be replaced.
Electrical circuit diagram for central locking
If the central locking does not work, this may be due to mechanical problems: the cylinder drive hose is faulty. The signal received by the control unit from the key fob is transmitted to the motor on the doors, which should operate and act on the hose fixed in the cylinder. If one end of the hose falls out of the cylinder, the drive is turned off. In this case, the door will not be able to open or close. Thus, the reasons why the lock does not work or malfunctions can be either electrical or mechanical.
Repair of partial failures of the vacuum central locking system
In many cases, central locking malfunctions are accompanied by prolonged pump operation. It does not stop working until the protection turns it off.
In this case:
- The central locking system opens and closes the doors until the compressor turns off. In this situation, the cause is a faulty drive switch. Voltage is supplied to the pump board from the activator; when it is supplied to plus, the doors open or close. The switch needs to be repaired or replaced with a new one.
- The doors close and open, the central lock does not open only some of them, while the compressor continues to work until the protection is triggered.
There may be several reasons for malfunctions:
- the tightness of the vacuum line hoses is broken;
- signals are sent to the compressor control board, but it does not respond to them;
- there is no signal from the limit switch of the drive of one of the doors to the pump control board, so despite the fact that the doors have opened or closed, the compressor continues to work.
If the hoses are not tight, you should check the entire line. Torn hoses are replaced intact. If the tubes are intact, the drive may be leaking or there may be cracks in the membrane. Faulty parts are replaced with new ones or a new lock assembly is purchased (the author of the video is AvtoMalyarka from Zero).
In the second case, they check the entire electrical network from the activator to the control board, as well as the voltage on each wire. If an open circuit is found, it must be repaired.
The reason may be a malfunction of the compressor control unit. In this case, you need to disassemble it and carefully clean the terminal contacts. If this does not give positive results, then you need to check and repair the control board circuit.
Repair of electric central locking
Over time, central locking solenoids do not tolerate low temperatures well due to high humidity, especially in spring and autumn. First they begin to jam, and then the door no longer closes or opens. The solenoids can be cleaned and lubricated, but it is better to replace them with motorized drives.
Activators may not work or work partially on one of several doors for the following reasons:
- Damage to the circuit or poor-quality contacts in the electrical wiring.
- Relay is faulty.
- If control is carried out from the board, then it is possible that the reason is its malfunction.
- Poor contact at device terminals or damage to the drive electrical circuit.
- Wear of activator components.
- The winding has burned out.
Repairing a car's central locking system should begin by checking the non-working activators to see if they are receiving voltage. If the door lock function is activated, there should be voltage on one wire. If a signal to open is received, voltage leaves the 1st wire and appears on the 2nd. Based on the results obtained, further actions are performed: either the activator is checked and repaired in case of a malfunction, or the entire circuit is checked, correcting damaged areas. Broken wires most often occur in corrugated areas.
Sorry, there are no surveys available at this time.
Video “CZ Repair”
This video tells how to get rid of problems with the central locking of a car (the author of the video is Ksyu and Den. Live blog).