Budgetary site drainage and storm sewer systems from portal users. Discharge of surface (atmospheric) water Discharge of storm water

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Drainage in a summer cottage is considered to be a fairly important hydraulic engineering operation. The easiest way to improve water balance soil must be present, because the moisture ratio at different times of the year can change not only due to natural factors. Sometimes even a nearby construction site can upset the balance.

A simple system for draining water from a building

Soil drainage can be done using open trenches or specialized pipes placed in the ground. The first of them are simple in design, but do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In this regard, some developers are creating channels closed type without disturbing the attractiveness of the landscape.

Surface lines

Although the systems surface collection are relatively simple, they allow you to effectively remove moisture from the site in the form of precipitation. Through special trays and depressions, water is directed to the central drainage ditch or drain well. The advantages include:

high construction speed;
low costs;
sufficient level of efficiency;
ease of cleaning.

Helpful advice! If we're talking about on how to make drainage on a site with your own hands without unnecessary financial investments, then first of all you should consider the option with an open channel system.

Closed drainage systems

Deep line systems are ideal for both stormwater and groundwater, lying in close proximity. Most often, they are arranged using polymer pipes that are immersed in the ground at a certain distance.

In practice, two types of drainage with closed channels are well applicable:

point (water collection occurs in one place);
linear (moisture collection is ensured throughout the pipeline through special holes).

Note! Within one site, the presented species can be combined. For example, point collection can be used for the drainage system of a house, and linear collection can be used for groundwater.

Drainage in a summer cottage: the simplest method of installation for specific conditions

Before making a drainage system on the site, you need to select its type based on operational features. It is worth considering the most optimal options for installing water drainage systems, which are popular under certain conditions.

An example of site drainage with a high groundwater level

If groundwater is close to the surface, the best option may be deep system linear type. It will remove moisture from the entire area to sewer, ravine or ditch located a level below. It is proposed to use perforated panels as the main elements plastic pipes in the geotextile filter.

One of the most simple ways drainage in a summer cottage with groundwater located near the surface comes down to the following scheme:

A trench is dug to the distance where the soil freezes. Its slope should be 2 cm per linear meter towards the liquid collection point. A layer of sand is poured for leveling.
Geotextiles are spread on the prepared bottom so that its edges overlap the walls of the pit by at least 1-2 m. A small layer of gravel is poured on top.
Next, plastic pipes are laid, after which they are again filled with approximately the same layer of gravel. The ends of the geotextile are rolled up to form a protective barrier. The rest of the trench is filled with soil.

For your information! Knowing how to properly do drainage around a site and on its territory with close groundwater, you can avoid serious problems associated with excess moisture.

Related article:

Installation of open drainage with your own hands on an area with clay soil

For land plots with clay soil A system with an open channel arrangement is more suitable. At closed system pipelines, water will not be able to seep through such soil and go into specialized sedimentation tanks or other suitable places.

In places where water accumulates, ditches are dug with a depth of at least 50 cm. Their width should increase as they approach the receiving site. It is necessary to make the widest trench that collects water from the ditches adjacent to it. To facilitate draining and protect the edges from collapse, the side walls are cut at an angle of 30 degrees.

Because open view spoils the trenches appearance plot, it is necessary to decorate them. It not only improves aesthetic properties, but also strengthens the side surfaces of open lines. In this regard, the operation of the system increases significantly.

Stones of different sizes can be used as material for decorating pits. The largest of them should be placed on the bottom, and the medium and small ones should be placed on top. If you have good financial resources, the surface can be covered with marble chips, which will give the outlet lines a respectable appearance.

If with in cash tight, then ordinary brushwood can be a good option for decoration. It is necessary to find dry branches of any wood species that grow nearby. They should be tied in bunches and placed on special stands installed at the bottom of the ditch.

The thickness of the bundles of brushwood should be no more than 30 cm. It is better to place the branches so that the larger ones lie in the center, and the smaller ones at the edges.

Related article:

Average prices for turnkey plot drainage

Many companies offer professional services on the construction of drainage systems, but they are not so cheap. During the work, a double-wall pipe with a geotextile filter will be used.

Rules of care

Drainage structures will function properly long years, if the basic rules are followed during operation.

Device storm sewer(storm drainage) - a system that serves to protect the foundations of houses and the territories that surround them from rain and melt water. The main task of the mechanism is to collect rain and melt water in the canal lines. One of the main elements is rainwater inlets that collect water from drainpipes. In general, the system is able to stop the flooding of foundations, which can lead to destruction. Storm drainage is a mandatory equipment in the engineering of a country house or garden. Installing a high-quality drain will help you preserve your lawn, flower garden, and most importantly, protect your house from destruction.

To do this, we must answer the question, where does the sedimentary liquid go? Some of the water is absorbed by the ground, but due to the development of civilization, most of the land has turned into asphalt. Now she has nowhere to go. Because of this, rain can destroy our yards and contribute to dampness in our homes. Today, the installation of storm sewers is combating this problem. In most cases they work by gravity.

When choosing technologies, pay attention to the following indicators:

Relief of the earth;
Nature of the development
The amount of precipitation in a given area.

Advantages of storm drainage

50-100 cubic meters - this is exactly how much water flows annually from under a country house. The storm system collects all the water and distributes it evenly among the areas. If sedimentary water is left unchecked, it will cause great harm to the owner of the site. The consequence of this may be destruction of the foundation and rotting of vegetation on the site.

Stormwater has the following advantages:

Installation work is easy and inexpensive;
It is much easier to make slopes for such a system;
90% are located on the surface, which helps to avoid pipe clogging and facilitates access to repair work;
The soil layer is almost not disturbed;
Trays perform two functions: they collect and drain water.

What does a storm drainage system consist of?

The drainage design consists of the following components:

Gutters;
Storm water inlets;
Pipes;
Supporting parts.

Now let's take a closer look at the functions and features of each.

Gutters collect water resources in places with huge mechanical loads, for example: parking lots and garages. They are used from different materials: plastic, concrete and polymer concrete. The package may include special nozzles made of metal and decorated mesh, which protect them from clogging with large debris.

Storm water inlets work with point collection of water from the surface and roofs of houses, if a connection is established with drainpipes. They are made of plastic and can withstand moving a car. The package may also include: a trash can, a special partition and a cast iron or galvanized grill.

The pipes that make up the gutters are designed to transport water to the collector and are used for outdoor work. Material – polypropylene. When designing systems, as a rule, two options for laying pipes are used:

Shallow planting. They operate mainly in the summer. In this case, thick-walled brown pipes are most often used.
Deep. Operate year-round. In this laying system, preference is given to two-layer corrugated pipes.

Important! When choosing a pipe diameter, it is necessary to calculate the expected amount of precipitation. Also, to control storm drains, it is necessary to organize audits and install inspection wells to clean the wire tubes.

The design of drainage systems may include rain wells, drainage trays, sand traps and underground drains.

Attention to buyers! The storm drainage scheme is planned during landscape design and proportionally depends on the vertical structure of the site.

Why is it necessary to install inspection wells?

These structures are installed at turning points of drainage systems, as well as on too-long pipes every 25 m. Inspection wells allow us to carry out an inspection and monitor the cleanliness of the drainage system. Previously, they were made by hand from reinforced concrete rings or laid out with bricks. Today it is plastic.

Their advantages include the fact that they:

Sealed;
Not subject to corrosion;
Reliable and durable;
They are light in weight;
Easy to install.

Storm sewer classification

Before buying, we need to familiarize ourselves with the classification of gutters. They are divided according to the following criteria: method of drainage and type of drainage.

It is important to know that the drainage and stormwater systems are installed in parallel. They shouldn't unite. Moreover, the storm water in their parallel is laid higher.

Types of systems according to the method of water drainage:

Closed. This is the most complex mechanism. For its operation, it is necessary to carry out a detailed hydraulic calculation for a suitable pipe diameter. Water is collected in special storm inlets or trays and then moved into a pipe system. Then it follows gravity, from which it enters the collector, from where it is transferred outside the site. For example, in bodies of water.

Advice! Installation of closed-type systems with large pipes is carried out on city streets or enterprises. But in some cases it is ideal for a site if it is a large area.

Open. This is the simplest option. In this case, precipitation is collected in trays installed in ditches, which are inclined towards the collector. The trays are covered with bars.
Mixed drainage systems. This system provides for the installation of both types of components, which significantly reduces costs. With this choice, pipes with a diameter of 10-15 cm should be installed.

Types by type of drainage system:

Point water collection. The principle of operation is the installation of storm water inlets, which are connected by pipes into one network. It needs to be installed in problem areas.
Linear. This installation is used to collect sediment from areas big size, for example, asphalt areas, etc.

PS: You can get acquainted with each type of water drainage by looking at the photos posted on the Internet.

How to choose a suitable location for the collector?

Positive or favorable. The terrain is flat or with a slope of no more than 0.005. In this case, drainage areas can reach 150 hectares or less.
Average. The collector is located at the bottom of the slope. Area – 150 hectares or a little more.
Unfavorable. Sloping terrain and steep slopes. The area exceeds 150 hectares, and significantly.

Advice. To properly lay a drainage system, you need to choose the most shortcut to the descent point. Drainage and storm water should never be combined!

Stages of preparation for installing a stormwater system

Work should begin immediately after finishing the façade planning and landscaping of the area. You need:

Perform vertical soil dumping on the site and compact it. This is necessary in order to avoid equipment deformation.
Installation for drainage of rainfall from roofs outside the site. This helps protect the foundation from getting wet and collapsing.
Determine the method and place for drainage of sediment. The location must be determined on a case-by-case basis based on the locality. There are two options: drainage ditches and a sewer system.
Rainwater collection on tile surfaces. They are installed only if there is a slope from the adjacent territory or building.

Advice. The system should consist of linear and point drainage; the kit may also include protective devices from dirt. So before installation, you need to consult with a specialist: after all, any system is selected individually for the area.

Installation procedure

Installation of storm drains plays a big role in its further performance. Correct sequence actions will ensure proper operation and high efficiency. You can find many on the Internet various photos, explaining the principles of installation. We will try to describe it to you below.

So, install the components in the following sequence:

We secure local water collection points under the pipes;
We carry out a linear outlet, which is based on trays;
We connect all components with pipes to the manifold.

Important! Install inspection wells, they will help avoid clogging. The collector needs to be installed, lowered to a greater depth, so that in frosty weather it does not freeze; if this is not possible, insulate it!

Basic rules and principles for installing drainage systems

Precipitation from raincoats enters the collector or spillway through pipes;
A drainage system must be connected from the same system;
Mainly used for storm drains PVC pipes, diameter 11 cm;
Corrugated pipes that have a smooth surface inside may also be suitable;
As a rule, they are installed so that precipitation descends by gravity. To do this, maintain a slope of 1 cm per 1 m of pipe.
To prevent the system from freezing during the off-season, pipes must be laid below the freezing point of the soil;
If you cannot place the pipes at depth, then it is worth insulating them.

Attention! If possible, avoid turning pipelines. If you don’t have it, create 90 degree angles.

A clean and dry yard after rain, no puddles on the lawn or washed out beds, healthy plants and perfectly smooth paths are the result of competent planning and installation surface drainage. It is difficult to achieve such a result on your own without significant expenses, but it is possible if you make storm drainage with your own hands to drain the surface and remove rainwater. In combination with a storm drain (a system for draining water from the roof), the drainage network will also reduce the amount of moisture penetrating into the deep layers of the soil - the load on the deep foundation drainage network will decrease.

It is worth planning the layout of drainage networks and storm water systems even before the start of construction. Foundation protection in the form of a wall system is easier to install if the foundation pit is not backfilled. While construction is underway and there is equipment on site, it is advisable to order trench digging so as not to dig manually and carry dirt into the landscaped area. Protection from melt and rain water is:

Stormwater and drainage around the perimeter of the house

Surface linear storm drainage – collection and drainage of rainwater from the ground surface.

Storm drainage is the removal of water flowing down drainpipes.

Point drainage – drainage of local areas with problematic natural outflow.

Scheme for removing moisture from the surface: drainage system

Storm sewer network

Stormwater sewer network it is arranged with a connection to a common highway, if there is a collector or city stormwater pipe nearby. In the case when the branches of the city network are located on long distance, the output of the local drainage system and storm sewer is organized in 2 ways: to a filtration field (an area covered with crushed stone to drain moisture into the ground), or to a receiving tank (drainage well, pond, roadside ditch). Drainage from a private storm drain into a common household one sewer system prohibited.

System elements:

Drainage gutters, which are mounted along the edge of the roof slopes.
Drainpipes.
Water intake tanks.

Receiving tank with outlet

External sewer pipes that are connected to water intake tanks.

The containers are mounted under the outlet of the drainpipe, connecting the pipe to the sewer pipe. Pipes are dug in at an angle to the drainage point.

Drainage: features of a surface storm system

The site surface drainage system consists of point and linear outlet branches connected into one network with outlet to the water intake. Storm drainage on the site is arranged in the form of open channels dug at a slope to the drainage point. Marking is carried out only after studying the direction of natural outflow during heavy rain. Be sure to form drainage lines:

Drainage network: point catch basins and storm trenches

Along the perimeter of the site.

On slopes and on sites in natural depressions.

Drainage branches on a slope

Around the paths.

Storm drainage around the house is a line of trenches laid along the blind area along the entire perimeter of the buildings. To drain the tiled yard, channels are formed at the entrance to the garage, near the porch, and steps.

Point drainage outlets are dug in places where there is no need to lay drainage channels: under watering taps, near the outlet of drainpipes (in areas where there is no storm drain). Drainage from point drainage wells is discharged into a discharge pipe of a common surface network.

Integration: is it possible to combine stormwater with a drainage network?

Two separate networks: drainage and stormwater

The optimal scheme for draining a site with a house is separate drainage networks and storm drains around the house. It is undesirable to connect linear channels with sewerage: during heavy rainfalls or rapid melting of snow, one pipe may not cope and overflow will occur through the water intakes.

It is advisable to connect stormwater and drainage in one trench only in one case: if the trench is dug for drainage from point drainage and sewer rather than perforated pipes are used. The pipes are laid parallel along the bottom of the concreted trench. Lay sealed sewer pipe into a channel with drainage backfill is prohibited: the diameter of the pipe will reduce the useful volume of the ditch and create difficulties when cleaning the trench.

General drainage of point drainage and storm water into a filtration tunnel

Instead of trying to connect stormwater and linear drainage in one pipe, it is better to make a common receiver, especially if it is not possible to tie into a city highway. Rainwater can be used for irrigation or filling artificial reservoirs. The receiver is set to plastic tanks, or they make wells without a bottom - to drain the incoming liquid into the ground.

How to make storm drainage in and around a country house

Storm drainage is a surface system that does not require volumetric earthworks and digging deep trenches, so you can do a simple wiring with your own hands. Before starting work, the places where lines and drainage points must be constructed are determined, and the drainage trajectory is planned. It is possible to detect all places where natural outflow is insufficient during heavy rainfall and after the snow begins to melt. An area with clayey, supersaturated soil that does not absorb water from the surface also requires the installation of branched linear storm drainage.

For preliminary calculations of quantity necessary materials It is worth drawing a diagram of the canals on the site plan.

Storm drainage installation plan

Materials: what you will need to install a storm drainage network

List of materials needed for independent device storm drainage of the site and installation of the system around the perimeter of the house:

Trays (gutters) for installation around the foundation. Manufacturing materials – plastic, polymer concrete mixture, concrete. Plastic channels are installed in areas where there is minimal physical impact on the grates: along the edges of the lawn, in flower beds. Concrete gutters are strong and durable. This tray can withstand loads of up to 25 tons. Installed in places of high loads: in courtyards where there is constant traffic, on access roads. Protective grilles are also chosen: metal and cast iron - for areas with intense load, decorative plastic - for lawns and gardens.

Connecting elements, spacers, bases. Auxiliary materials that the manufacturer recommends to use when assembling channels. Be sure to install spacers inside plastic trays.
Sand catchers. Separately, products are purchased for installation in a linear system and for installation in storm water inlets.

On the walls - preparation for pipe outlet

Storm water inlets. They use mainly ready-made plastic containers. The outer walls are equipped with preparation for connection to the outlet. Plastic receivers are easily installed on top of each other - you can assemble a container of any height.

Containers with basket and attachments

Geotextiles. Cloth for drainage backfill channels not equipped with gutters.

Synthetic water-permeable fabric

Crushed stone, sand. The crushed stone fraction is medium and coarse.
Mortar for pouring the base under gutters and water inlets.
Drainage wells. Ready-made plastic or large-diameter corrugated pipes.

Factory PVC drainage wells

Pipes for external sewerage with fittings.
Construction tool. You will need rough boards for formwork in the channels, pegs and fishing line for marking, shovels, picks, and a building level.

Installation of point water intakes

Point water inlets are stormwater and drainage elements installed under the outlet of drains. It is necessary to plan the installation so that the flow from the drain falls exactly in the center of the grate.

The edge of the well should be flush with the decorative coating

The dimensions of the hole for installing the container are determined by the height of the receiver, adding up to 30 - 40 cm for bedding and base. There should be a gap of up to 5 cm along the perimeter on each side. Dig a hole, level the walls and bottom. Be sure to check the horizontalness of the bottom and the angle so that the container does not move during installation.

Checking horizontal level

A dense ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand is formed at the bottom. A layer of crushed stone up to 25 cm high is laid on the sand cushion. It is advisable to fill the bottom concrete mortar. The poured base is left for several days until it hardens completely, or the container is fixed in fresh solution (if necessary, permanent fixation).

On concrete base install the rainwater inlet so that the container lid is flush with the blind area. If the installation is carried out before laying the decorative covering, then leave the free edge of the well above the ground to the height of the tile or stone.

Correct installation receiver

The side gaps are filled with crushed stone or filled with concrete. Before backfilling, a fitting is connected to the outlet to drain the pipe. Install the internal parts: basket, partitions, fix the lid.

Arrangement of an open storm system around the foundation

Drainage storm water along the perimeter of the building can be planned in the form of a ring closed at the collection point, without inspection wells. Demountable sand traps are provided for cleaning. Device Rules linear system:

The distance from the edge of the foundation should be 50 cm. It is optimal to plan the channels along the edge of the paths or blind area.

Trays - along the edge of the blind area with a height reserve for paving slabs

The depth of the channels is determined by the height of the tray with decorative cover with the addition of the height of the bulk layer - up to 40 cm.

Width – up to 50 cm.

To ensure that the installed gutters do not move or deform over time, several rules must be followed during excavation work. The bottom and walls must be smooth and solid. At the bottom, a standard sand cushion and crushed stone bedding must be made.

Plastic tray mounted on factory stand

To prevent the tray (especially a plastic one) from becoming deformed, it is better to make a concrete base for installation. The thickness of the concrete layer is 5 cm.

Laying the gutter on the solution

Gutters are installed in the prepared trenches. The structures are connected to each other with special locks. The extreme points (at the beginning and end of the line) are covered with plastic or metal plugs. If plastic gutters are used, factory spacers are installed inside.

Sand trap in drainage line

The gaps between the trays and the walls of the trench are filled with crushed stone or concreted. On long sections, sand traps are installed - deep trays with a mechanical filter. At the installation sites, discharge pipes are connected to the sand traps. Trenches for discharge pipes are dug at an angle.

Budget storm drainage of the site: building open channels

Drain rainwater from garden paths, flower beds and along the fence can be economical open method. Instead of ready-made trays, backfill storm drainage channels are installed. Trenches are dug along the planned lines. Depth – from 50 cm, width – from 50 – 60 cm.

Instead of gutters - backfill trench

The branch is formed with a slope towards the receiving tank. The walls are at an angle to the bottom to reduce the pressure of flowing water. The bottom is filled with sand. Check the correctness of the slope. For one meter – up to 3 cm height difference.

Pipe in crushed stone backfill

Geotextiles are laid on the sand layer. The edges are left free. The entire width of the trench is filled with crushed stone in a layer of up to 30 cm. A system with a perforated drainage pipe inside the crushed stone backfill will be more durable. Fold the edges of the fabric overlapping.

Dry stream with decorative backfill - a beautiful drainage line

The drainage clip is covered on top decorative material: river pebbles, multi-colored crumbs, stone. Dry streams - aesthetic and economical solution.

Drainage well and drain outlet

The drainage well is the connection point of the system. With a moderate amount of water and good water-absorbing characteristics of the soil, the drainage tank is installed on a crushed stone bed. Through a well without a bottom, water penetrates into the ground.

Drainage well with backfill bottom

If installing a filter well is not possible, then the liquid is drained from the drainage tank into a common storm main or taken outside the site - into a natural reservoir or ditch. The outlet from the well can be connected to a pond or receiving tank dug into the area.

Video: installation of storm drains around the house

Stormwater and linear open drainage are only the superficial part of foundation protection. It is necessary to create 3–4 types of drainage systems along the perimeter of buildings at different depths. Choosing a method of organization and technical parameters networks depends on the composition of the soil and the depth of the foundation. It’s not worth making deep drainage networks yourself. Calculations should be carried out by specialists, and it is better to install trench branches immediately after pouring the foundation. Even before the start of construction, deep reservoir drainage is installed. Not only the ability of the system to drain large quantities of water, but also the durability of the foundation depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

Surface water- which enter the site as a result of rain or streams that are constantly present on the site.

Ground- which are constantly located underground at some level from the surface of the earth.

The groundwater level varies depending on the time of year. Groundwater is closest to the surface of the earth in autumn and spring.

To drain surface water from the construction site, a system of drainage ditches (ditches) is installed. The ditches are given slopes to ensure water drainage in a given direction.

Groundwater from a construction site can be drained temporarily or permanently.

1. Temporary allotment consists in lowering the groundwater level, as a rule, below the foundation marks (only for the duration of the work).

Water reductions are carried out using special installations - a system of wellpoints (cuts of pipes of small diameter, pointed at the bottom and having holes in the walls), which are installed every 1.5 - 2 m along the entire perimeter of the building. Wellpoints are connected by a common pipeline to which pumps are connected.

2. Permanent tap arranged using drainage.

Drainage– is a system of trenches located on the side of the water supply or along the perimeter of the structure.

The depth of the trenches is taken such that the bottom of the trench is slightly below the required groundwater level.

Groundwater filters through the soil and enters the gravel layer. A large number of voids in such a layer contributes to the further movement of water. Instead of gravel, pipes can be laid at the bottom.

Soil strengthening.

Soils are strengthened in various ways.

1. Cementation – used in sandy soils. Cement mortar is pumped into the ground through wellpoints, which sets with sand to form a waterproof base.

2. Silication – used in loamy and clayey soils. Solutions of calcium chloride and sodium silicate are alternately pumped into the soil, which interact with the soil to form solid foundations.

3. Bituminization – used for wet sandy soils. Molten bitumen is pumped into the ground. It squeezes moisture out of the soil, and when it hardens, it makes the soil more durable.

4. Firing – used for various soils. At the ends of the wellpoints there is a bowl in which fuel is burned. Using a compressor, compressed air is supplied, which pumps hot gas into the ground. Under the influence high temperature the soil is sintered and strengthened.

Questions for the test on “Fundamentals of construction production”

1. History of the development of construction production.

2. Features of construction production in the Republic of Belarus. The role of construction production in the formation of a civil engineer.

3. Types of construction.

4. Construction work and labor organization. General provisions.

5. Construction workers and their training.

6. Technical regulation and legislation in construction production.

7. Composition and content of regulatory and technical documentation.

8. Labor protection and environment in construction industry.

9. Buildings and structures. Types and classification.

10. Main structural elements of buildings.

11. Basic building materials.

12. Quality management of construction work.

13. Organizational and technical preparation for construction.

14. Types of technical documentation.

15. Technological maps and maps of labor processes.

16. General information about soils and land structures.

17. Organization of the construction site. General information about methods of work production.

18. Transport processes.

19. Requirements for design solutions.

20. Protection of structures from ground and atmospheric moisture.

21. Safety precautions during waterproofing work.

An integral part of a private house or cottage is a storm drainage system, which provides an aesthetic appearance to the residential building and the area adjacent to it. It also prevents premature destruction of the foundations of buildings and the roots of plants growing on the site. For an inexperienced person in the field of "water disposal" this moment may seem like a dark forest. In this article we will analyze everything point by point: drainage of surface, storm and melt water from buildings and the site.

To create a storm drainage system, also known as a surface water drainage system, basic knowledge in construction and data about the area being developed are required. Storm sewerage is gravity-flow, i.e. is arranged at an angle and includes the following elements:

Roof drainage;
Drainage drainage system;
A sewer or drainage discharge point.

Roof drainage receives precipitation at the roof level, through trays, gutters, funnels and sends it to the surface drainage system.

Design of a surface water drainage system

For design you need to know:

the average amount of precipitation (both in the form of rain and in the form of snow, melt water), you can find this out in SNiP 2.04.03-85;
roof area;
the presence of other communications and facilities in the territory being developed.

For design, it is necessary to decide in what places they will be located. drainpipes and how many there will be. A diagram is drawn up that shows the differences in elevation of the surface of the site and the buildings on it. The diagram indicates the location of all storm sewer elements, including pipes, inspection wells and water discharge points. During design, the amount of required materials and their costs are also calculated.

Drainage of water from the roof

The roof drain material is varied: steel, copper, polymer-coated steel, aluminum, etc. Plastic is especially popular. It is economical, resistant to damage, is a sound-insulating material, airtight, and light in weight and installation. To properly design a roof drain you will need:

Metal bracket;
Hairpin with a special nut;
Adjustable mount;
Gutter bracket;
Tip;
Connecting coupling;
Knee;
Funnel plug;
Gutter plug;
Corner element;
Funnel;
Gutter connector;
Gutter;
Drain pipe.

The quantity and type of each element depends on the perimeter of the roof and the amount of pumped liquid, because too powerful a drainage system is irrational from the point of view financial costs, and a weak one will not cope with the task. Need to find best option. The figure shows the required dimensions typical for central Russia.

Installation of a water drainage system from the roof of a house

Installation is carried out after developing the design of the entire drainage system and reading the instructions supplied by the supplier store (each system has its own design features that must be taken into account). General installation sequence and work performed:

Installation begins with attaching the bracket from the side of the rafter wall or frontal board, taking into account the slope of the gutters.
Then the gutters themselves are laid using special plates and fastened to each other using cold welding or rubber seals. The cold welding method is preferred for joining gutters due to its resistance to deformation.
An additional bracket is installed in corner connections and connections with funnels.
The pipes are installed, maintaining a distance of 3-4 cm from the wall. The vertical brackets are attached at a distance of 1.5-2 m. The drain itself should be located half a meter from the ground surface.

Tips from the professionals:

The gutters begin to be laid from the funnel so that the edges of the gutter are below the edge of the roof.
If you use a pipe to collect gutters from three directions (if the roof non-standard shape), it is necessary to provide tees instead of standard funnels.
The distance between the brackets should be no more than 0.50-0.60 m.
It is recommended to mark the slope of the gutters in advance. For example, a guideline can be a rope stretched from the starting point to the ending point.
Plastic ebbs are mounted at a temperature of + 5°, otherwise the material will crack when cutting. Flashings made from other materials can be installed at any ambient temperature.

Construction of a surface water drainage system

Surface water drainage system or surface drainage consists of point drainage systems and linear channels.

Point drainage represent small wells locally connected to the roof drain. The trays are laid below the freezing level of the pipes. The installation of such drainage is similar to the installation of a roof drain. A trench is being prepared (lower than the freezing depth of the pipes, you can find out everything in the same SNiP) at a slope towards the collector. Sand is poured in a layer of 20 cm. Pipes are laid using fittings. If the sealing is maintained, the pipes are backfilled.

Linear channels come in two types - open or closed, equipped with grates or meshes to retain large debris. The gratings should be predominantly made of metal, because... withstand heavy loads (especially in places at the entrance to the garage).

Advice from professionals. To effectively collect surface water, a comprehensive arrangement of storm and point drainage is necessary. In case of heavy precipitation, the bulk of the water will be drained by surface drainage.

You can see what the process of installing a surface water drainage system looks like in the video:

Deep drainage system is provided if the area where the site is located is prone to prolonged rains. Such a system will protect the site from erosion, protect trees from premature death (due to rotting roots), and protect the foundation from the destructive effects of water.

Groundwater drainage system

Groundwater drainage differs from the systems described above in that it is installed at a greater depth and in the case of groundwater close to the surface of the earth, which can flood a basement or underground garage. Drainage is combined with storm water, and storm water pipes are laid higher than the drainage. It is necessary to understand the difference between stormwater and drainage. Storm drainage for drainage of rain, melt water and floods, and deep drainage for drainage of groundwater and possible flooding. Surface and deep drainage are connected using special nodal connections for accumulation excess water in one place and its subsequent disposal, processing or reuse. Drains are installed parallel to each other.

This is important: with heavy rainfall, water in large quantities a short time passes through the storm drain. When such a flow of water enters the groundwater drainage system, this water flows from the pipes into the ground, thereby not draining it but flooding it, that is, it begins to perform the opposite function. Therefore, the surface water drainage system should be connected to the groundwater drainage system no earlier than the places where the water drainage and not drainage pipes pass, if you look at the direction of water movement into the systems. Soil drainage is carried out in places where perforated pipes are laid. Water is drained through sealed pipes.

According to the method of groundwater extraction, they are divided into: vertical, horizontal and combined drainage. Vertical drainage consists of vertical ribbed wells lowered into the groundwater layer. They are equipped with pumps and filters, respectively, for cleaning and pumping groundwater outside the territory. This scheme is quite complicated both in installation and in operation.

Horizontal drainage consists of perforated pipes laid at the optimal pumping outlet depth in dug ditches lined with crushed stone. Ditches are dug throughout the site in a herringbone pattern.

The installation of drainage, regardless of the type of site, begins with the arrangement drainage well in the farthest part of the site, away from the house. You can use ready-made plastic wells.

In places corner connections inspection wells are installed to facilitate communication maintenance.

The depth of drainage is selected based on its objectives: if the goal is to collect groundwater to protect the basement, then the depth should correspond to the level of the basement floor; if the goal is to drain abundant water that sinks into the ground, the depth corresponds to the depth of the foundation.

The pipes are wrapped with a special material () to prevent sand and gravel from getting into the pipes, with which the pipe is covered with a layer of 20-30 cm. After this, the pipe can be covered with ordinary soil. Unlike vertical drainage, water collected through holes in pipes is discharged by gravity and not by pumps.

Horizontal drainage is more popular than vertical or even combined drainage due to its cost-effectiveness and ease of installation.

You can read more about the design of the groundwater drainage system in the article:

Discharge of collected water

Excess water is removed outside the site, into a ditch or reservoir. If this is not possible, then a well or reservoir is installed within the site, from where the water can be reused.

Advice:

It is recommended to lay drainage in ditches with V-shaped walls with a wall slope of 30◦ in the cross section of the ditch. Width 50 cm. Recommended ditch slope1-3 cm per meter of length. Wells can be equipped from any material that is not subject to corrosion.

Maintenance of drainage systems

Maintenance of the above systems is not difficult if they are properly designed and constructed. Main points in service:

Once every ten years, use a pump to thoroughly flush the pipes to prevent deposits on their walls.
Regular visual inspection of wells, collectors and cleaning if necessary.

The shelf life of a properly designed, installed, and maintained drainage system is on average fifty years, or even much more.

Tips from the professionals:

Be sure to check that the pipes are laid on a slope. The slope should be away from the house.
If it is impossible to install a gravity drainage system, a pressure outlet equipped with a pump is installed.
Do not forget about optimal design and price = quality.Very often you want more, better, but the budget does not always allow you to realize your plans. That's why It is recommended to design, compare the project with prices, make purchases and install in accordance with the recommendations given here.