Is it possible to make a drill with your own hands? For some earthworks in the country an indispensable tool is a hand drill. A hole dug using this tool will be compact, and the excavated earth will be less than when working with a shovel. The hole drill will also preserve the natural structure and density of the soil.
Types of garden drills
Garden augers vary in power, size and purpose. The following types of hole drills are distinguished:
- non-motorized ( handheld device, which is actively used in everyday life);
- mechanized (a manual device that runs on gasoline and a motor);
- mounted (a mechanized device that works with a tractor or other equipment).
A non-motorized hole drill will be able to make holes of medium diameter and depth in the ground. The work is carried out thanks to the operator who holds the tool. This device is very convenient to use and easy to transport due to its compactness. Using such a tool, you can put up a wooden fence or dig holes for seedlings. The device consists of a main rod with a knife and a handle T-shape. There are models of earth drills with removable knives or a screw, which makes it possible to drill holes of various sizes (up to 2 m) and diameters (up to 30 cm).
The mechanized drill is equipped with a drive. Him simple design: screw auger or rod and electric or gasoline drive with geared motor. The screw is started thanks to rotational and translational movements gears. Such a tool can drill deeper holes (up to 3 m).
Mounted drills are intended for drilling wells big size and diameter. They are used for installation of street lighting poles, fencing of enterprises, train stations, and airports. Thanks to them, fencing for trenches is made. They have great performance and power.
To choose the right device, you need to pay attention to specifications drill: hole diameter, depth, number of holes per day, power.
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With my own hands.
Manufacturing Features.
DIY transforming bench: drawings, dimensions.Making a drill yourself
Making a pit drill is labor-intensive work, but it does not require any special skills. To make an earth drill you will need the following tools:
- cutter;
- rod (a metal structure that increases when the drill is immersed in the soil);
- handle for rotating the device;
- welding machine;
- lathe;
- motor with sandpaper;
- electric drill with various drill bits for metal;
- steel sheets;
- steel rods;
- pipe.
To make a drill with your own hands, you can use the drawings. First you need to cut a sheet of steel and cut out circles different diameters, which will ensure the versatility of the device. Circles will be used to make the cutters. The diameter of the workpieces should be larger the right size recesses by 5 mm. All workpieces are drilled in the center so that the holes are slightly larger than the diameter of the rod.
On a lathe, bushings are made from steel with perforations in the center, in which the threads are made. They will be needed to attach the cutting parts to the rod. It is recommended that they be performed by a master, because the reliability of the device itself will depend on its strength.
Next, you need to turn the round blanks into spiral ones. For this purpose, a small segment should be cut out of the workpiece, the ends should be secured in a vice and stretched. Due to stretching, the workpiece takes the form of a spiral. There is no need to stretch it too much, otherwise the metal will lose strength.
After this, sharpen the outer end of the spiral so that it cuts the soil easier. Small cuts (approximately 3 mm) should be made on the rod at intervals of approximately 8 cm from the edge. Sharpen the edge of the rod for easy penetration into the soil and cut into a shallow spiral. To make it easier to work with dense soil, weld a metal drill to the edge of the rod.
The rod is made from pipe sections. The possibility of fastening them to each other is provided. A handle is attached to the top to rotate the device. Upon completion of all construction work, you need to paint the device with a special paint that can protect the instrument from corrosion. The drill for poles with your own hands is ready.
Reading time ≈ 10 minutes
Residents of the private sector are very familiar with situations when something needs to be built or installed, but the base of such a structure will be in the ground. In this regard, many are wondering how to make a drill for drilling holes for pillars (piles) with their own hands, using materials that may be available in household. In addition, without excessive modesty, it can be argued that in some cases, self-made instruments exceed the quality of factory products. The thing is that a standard is produced at the factory, and at home you can adapt such a device to specific needs, taking into account the condition of the soil.
Homemade manual garden auger
Dependence of design on purpose
For household needs, you can make a hand drill with your own hands for various purposes, although in any case, such a tool is intended for drilling holes. But at the same time they are distinguished by appearance And operational characteristics, This:
- ordinary garden auger;
- auger garden auger;
- drill for TISE piles (Technology of Individual Construction and Ecology).
To assemble such a tool you will definitely need welding machine, operating on alternating or direct current.
Common garden auger
Earth garden auger
For making regular garden borer, which is most often used for not very deep holes, holes need a powerful rod, made of solid (scrap) or hollow pipe profile. In addition, you will need semicircular cutting discs welded at a certain angle of attack (it is best if it is alloy steel). Using this tool, holes are made for planting plants (usually seedlings of shrubs or trees), as well as holes for installing fence posts or other light architectural structures.
Homemade auger hand drill
The word “auger” from German (“Schnecke”) is translated as “snail” and this perfectly characterizes the configuration of the cutting device. The blades are arranged like a right-hand thread with a large pitch, which allows you to pull the drill out of the ground much less frequently, since the soil rises to the full height of the blades without interfering with drilling. The functionality of such a tool is practically no different from the device described above, but labor productivity in this case almost doubles. If, for example, you build a fence around the perimeter of the site, you will have to install a lot of supports, so speed will only bring benefits. Certainly. It is better to use an automated drive for the auger.
Homemade drill for TISE piles
This tool is used to make wells with expansion at the bottom
The drill for TISE piles fully complies with the technology of individual construction and the ecology of work, and in living conditions, as a rule, is used for pouring pillars with an expanded base underneath. Its uniqueness lies in the fact that near the cutting blades there is a folding blade (knife), with the help of which an expansion is formed. If we talk about labor productivity when pouring such foundations, then such tools are simply irreplaceable.
Making an ordinary garden auger at home
Below we will look at how you can make such a design at home, provided that you have a workshop (for many car enthusiasts this is a garage).
Components
The constituent elements from which the entire assembly is made
List of elements:
- The cutting parts are two semicircles made of alloy steel, with sharpened edges. Depending on the purpose of the tool, its diameter is also determined. In some cases, semicircular blades are fixed bolted connection m so that they can be replaced with a different diameter.
- The rod is a round or square pipe profile, although sometimes such a part is made from scrap, but this significantly increases the mass and complicates the work process. The length of the rod depends on the need, but most often it is made for pits 50-80 cm long and up to 1.5 m (if this parameter is reduced, you have to constantly work in a bent position). But if one and a half meters is not enough (the depth of the hole is 80-100 cm or more), then it is better to make a prefabricated rod with extendable rods (they can be joined using a nipple).
- The crossbar for the handle is welded to the top of the rod in the shape of the letter T, where the optimal length of the crossbar is 25-30 cm in each direction. If you make these levers shorter, then scrolling will be much harder.
- The tip is made sharp; it serves as a drill, which centers the blades in relation to the surface of the earth. That is, they will not move to the side, since they are a single unit with the drill.
What materials will you need?
Pipe profile square section
To make a rod, as mentioned above, a square or square pipe profile is suitable round section. If the wall of such a profile has a thickness of 2-2.5 mm, then a section of 20×20 mm or ø20 mm is suitable, but if the walls are thinner, then the section should be increased to 30×30 or 35×35 mm, ø30-35 mm. In the event that during work there may be a need to screw on an additional rod, then only a round pipe profile is suitable for the rod.
Flat tip in the form of a lance with central and side sharpening
A sharp tip must be welded to the end of the rod, which can be made from a piece of a thick drill with a pobedit tip - they are used for drilling concrete with a hammer drill. But you can also make such a point from thick reinforcement or a piece of steel, sharpening it in the form of a flat peak, as in the top photo.
The cutting part is made of a disk for manual circular saw
The most crucial moment is the manufacture of cutting blades and they can be made from:
- sheet steel 3-4 mm thick;
- saw blade from a grinder (diamond) or a hand-held circular saw.
In this case, it is most convenient to use grinder wheels with diamond coating, designed for cutting concrete, or from a hand-held circular saw. When the diamond coating is applied, a thin strip of no more than 1 mm remains around the circumference and it is easy to grind it off, making the edges sharp, and the toothed disk from the circular saw can only be cut in half.
For reference. The internal diameter of the disk or mounting hole is standard 22.5 mm.
And a few more words about the handle - it should be from round pipe and under no circumstances should you put any plastic on it, much less wrap it with electrical tape.
Method of fastening knives
Removable bolt-on blades
If it is planned to drill wells of different diameters, then the blades on the tool can be made of a removable type. For this purpose, two shelves are welded to the rod and knives are bolted to them, as shown in the top photo.
The optimal angle of attack is 30-40⁰
If you are not going to change the diameter of the blades, then most best option, this is ø120 mm and for this purpose a saw or trimming disk ø125 mm (5 mm width of diamond coating and it will no longer be) is best suited, which needs to be cut into two semicircles. The ø22.5 mm seat will have to be adjusted to the rod, cutting off the excess by electric welding. For soft soils The angle of attack is usually 30⁰, and sometimes even 40⁰, but for hard ones it is better to lower it to 22-25⁰.
Components of a garden auger: 1) rod with a point, 2) cutting discs, 3) handle for rotation
Here is a drawing of a homemade garden auger with ø120 mm blades (the diameter of a used cutting disc for diamond-coated concrete). Below is a video on how to make such a tool:
Video: Do-it-yourself garden drill in a home workshop
Auger drill
Schematic diagram of the manufacture of an auger drill
Now let's figure out how to make an auger drill for drilling holes for pillars with our own hands. Such a tool does not have to be removed from the hole every 5-10 cm of passage, since the soil dump moves during rotation to the upper blades of the auger. This significantly speeds up the process, but working with it requires a lot of physical strength, so in most cases such installations are used in conjunction with an automated drive.
All disks are clamped in a vice and the same sector is cut out for rotation
Now the most crucial moment: you need to cut out a trapezoidal sector from all the disks folded together, although these inclined ones will intersect in the center, forming an acute angle. The bottom line is that when turning each upper disk, the left edge of the cut sector should coincide with the right edge of the lower one. It is, of course, better to first do such things on paper and if everything matches, transfer the markings for cutting to the metal. The number of screw turns will correspond to the number of disks.
Attention! Do not lose sight of the fact that for docking the lower disk uses the right side of the sector, and the upper one the left. If you do the opposite, you will have to drill counterclockwise.
Now the welding work begins:
- place a disk on a plane, and place another one on top of it, but so as to overlap the cut sector, that is, the left edge of the upper one should adjoin the right edge of the lower one;
- this joint is welded by electric welding and the next disc is placed on top, acting on the same principle;
- This is how all the disks are joined and welded, making a compressed spring out of them.
The compressed spring is stretched using a winch
Finishing welding work, this homemade spring needs to be stretched to form an auger. To do this, the assembly is put on a rod and the lower disk is welded at the desired angle, for example, 30⁰, and something like a ring can be welded to the upper disk so that it hooks onto the winch hook. The rod is fixed on the floor (figure out how to do this yourself - circumstances vary) and the spring is stretched with a winch, after which the upper disk is welded. The rod is released and the entire structure is scalded in a spiral.
Video: Making an auger drill
Drill for TISE piles
Operating principle of the TISE pile drill
The drawing above shows the principle of operation of the TISE pile drill: first it makes a shaft of the required diameter, and at the bottom the well is expanded using a folding knife. But perhaps I will disappoint you, since in order to make such a design at home, you need, at a minimum, a workshop with tools and professional mechanic skills. To consider such a build, you will have to post a separate article, even a small one, but here we will limit ourselves to showing a video on self-assembly Borax TISE:
Video: Homemade drill for TISE piles at home
Conclusion
From this material you learned how to make a drill for drilling holes for poles with your own hands. You won’t use a drill for TISE piles to install a fence or build a foundation, so for a house an ordinary drill or, if you have something to make a drive from, an auger drill is quite enough.
When building a house and arranging a site, it is often necessary to do round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same pits, but larger diameter and depths required when installing. These holes are made with a motorized or hand drill. There are plenty of them in stores, but many people prefer homemade ones: they are often more productive and reliable than factory-made products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are many of them.
Designs and Applications
Garden earth drills that are easier to make. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of homemade drills - they can be “sharpened” to specific conditions and it’s not just about the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted on, but also about the design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. They work well on “light” soils.” On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.
Making a garden drill
A garden auger is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:
This is a basic design, and there are many modifications to it. But let's first talk about what an earth drill can be made from.
Materials
As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4′ to 1.5′, profiled pipe can be taken from 20*20 mm to 35*35 mm.
Blade knives can be made from:
It is easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the soil easier to cut.
The peak drill is made from different materials- there are a lot of her designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of rod large diameter. The second option is to make something like a drill from the steel strip. And yet - a combination of these two.
Pike - one of the tip options
And finally - about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the circumference of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.
Knives and fastening method
First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30°.
After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of substantial diameter.
One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for holes of different diameters
You will have to cut holes in the center of the disks themselves so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.
Sheet steel
If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper and use it to create a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - you will need to insert and weld a rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the chosen rod. The hole dimensions are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.
The edges should also be separated by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loams with a predominance of clay), the blades may collapse under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.
The blades bend due to the fact that unhardened steel is used, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and even if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.
From a saw blade
If you have an old saw blade of suitable diameter, you have found almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, which is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, so it is sawed in half and these halves are placed at the required angle.
Such homemade drill for excavation work shows quite high productivity. Even used wheels have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.
Modifications
In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades are welded onto the rod. different sizes. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded; above, retreating a few centimeters, the large ones are welded. There can be three such tiers, maximum four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is physically very difficult to work.
If a drill is needed for shallow holes - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it is relatively light in weight and easy to work with. The working process is as follows: they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times, pulled it out, and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep holes, you will suffer from carrying a small amount of soil from the depths. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded above the blades.
And all these are hand-made drills. They are all different high efficiency— much easier to work with than store-bought ones.
Auger drill
Auger drill due to large quantity turns creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden auger. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are made - for water, devices for underground probes for heat pump and so on.
To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut identically, a hole is cut in them in the center for the rod, as well as an identical sector - so that they can be welded.
The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer disks. The welded discs are placed on the rod, the lower edge is welded.
Drill for TISE piles
In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with an earth receiver and a folding wider blade, which forms an expansion at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife gets in the way. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the holes themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and for expansion, make a separate folding knife with an earth receiver. This makes the work easier and faster.
Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options
A cut-off shovel serves as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to trim the sides of the hole, forming the necessary expansion.
The photo below shows the second option. homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more effective. The plow blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to folding design on bolted connections.
The dredger is made from an old propane tank. The collection of soil occurs from below, which is why the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.
This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.
Blueprints
A self-made drill is good because its design is “tailored” to its owner. During the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are arbitrary; they can and should be changed, adjusting them to the size of the required wells.
To plant plants do serious design doesn't make sense. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings as shown in the drawing. According to the markings, you will need to cut out two small fragments, saw bottom part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).
If the ground is soft, conventional design doesn't work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.
This drawing shows interesting design handles - it can be rearranged as the length of the bar increases.
Basic drawings of auger and garden auger
Both of these units work well, but the garden one has to be taken out often, and the auger one is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.
Garden auger drawing
Video materials
Digging holes for posts with your own hands using a shovel is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process. This may take more than one day if the decision is made to build a fence. The way out of this difficult situation is to do everything with the help of a garden auger. The device is simple and does not require the use of energy, that is, it is clean hand tool. It's easy to work with, no big effort required. As practice shows, in 15 minutes you can dig a hole in the ground with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of one meter. That is, in just a couple of hours you can completely prepare places for installing poles.
Today manufacturers garden tools offer a fairly wide range of hand drills. They cost differently, but if the work they do is one-time, then maybe it’s worth making it yourself. How difficult is this creative process? Basically, for anyone home handyman For those who are familiar with simple plumbing tools and can handle electric welding, this task is quite doable. Let's look at how you can make a garden hand drill from scrap materials.
Required materials and tools
What materials will be required for this:
- Pipe metal diameter 20-25 mm.
- Strip 3-5 mm thick.
- A metal sheet 3-4 mm or a disk from a circular saw, you can use a cutter.
- Bolts with M6 nuts, if a drill with removable knives will be manufactured.
Tools:
- Welding machine complete with electrodes;
- Hammer;
- Hacksaw or grinder;
- Roulette.
Attention! Pay attention to the internal diameter of the cutter; it should be slightly larger than the external diameter of the pipe by approximately 5-7 mm.
Manufacturing process
First of all, the length of the hand drill for the pillars is determined. Approximately, you can take it within 1.5 m. Therefore, a piece of this size is cut from the pipe. Pruning is done with a grinder.
Very important element- this is the tip of the drill. It serves as a guiding element. But if you come to the issue of ease of drilling soil (especially hard), then it’s worth making a small drill from the tip. Therefore, it is better to make the element itself from a metal strip 5 mm thick. How to do it right.
- A 10 cm long piece is cut from a strip 5 mm thick and 20 mm wide.
- One end of it is sharpened into a cone. This can be done with a grinder by putting an emery disc on it.
- The other end is ground on both sides so that it can easily fit into the pipe. Turning length - 5 cm.
- The tip is inserted into the pipe and electrically welded on all sides.
- You can change the design of the tip (improve it) by making a small drill out of it. To do this, you will have to heat the device and shape it into a screw, something like a corkscrew.
It is the corkscrew design that will help increase the element’s ability to bite into hard soil. Here it is important to accurately establish the direction of twist. It should coincide with the angle of inclination of the main drill knives. Typically, the tool is twisted clockwise, which means that the sharp edge should be located on the right side.
There is another option for making a drill tip with your own hands. To do this, you will have to cut the end of the pipe longitudinally to a depth of 3-5 cm. This is done with a grinder. There should be four or five cuts, with the same distance (or approximately the same) left between them. Now, using a hammer, you need to adjust the edges of the cuts to the center of the pipe diameter. After that, the joints of the cut strips are scalded with electrodes, and the end of the device is sharpened with a grinder.
Now you can proceed to installing the main knives. You can make them yourself from various cutting working tools. The cutters and disks from the circular saw were listed above. Basically, this list is longer. If cutting discs were not found, then knives can be made from sheet steel 3-4 mm thick. You simply cut a circle out of a sheet of the required diameter; by the way, this can be done with a grinder or electric welding. Then a hole is made in it with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe. And after that the steel circle is cut into two even halves.
You can first cut the circle in half, and then cut semicircles on the two halves for the pipe. The important thing here is to finish the process by sanding down all the raw edges. The outer edges of the half-discs are sharpened to a certain sharpness. After which both knives are welded to the pipe. There are a couple of recommendations here:
- The distance from the place where the tip is welded to the place where the knives are installed is 10-15 cm.
- The knives themselves are installed one above the other, the distance between them is 5 cm, the installation angle is approximately 20°.
- The discs must be welded so that their working edge is directed downwards, that is, when drilling, the drill should easily crash into the ground.
All that remains is to weld a small piece of pipe perpendicular to the drill pipe. This will be the handle. Its length is 50 cm, but here everyone chooses it for themselves. To prevent the effort of human hands from breaking the weld between two pipes, it is necessary to weld gussets cut from a metal sheet on both sides.
The design of the drill can be modified, or rather, improved. Sometimes it becomes necessary to dig holes for posts longer than 1.5 m. Therefore, it is recommended to add a couple of additional pipes, which will increase the length of the instrument itself. How to make these elements correctly.
- Firstly: it is necessary to modify the drill handle, making it removable. Therefore, it is not welded tightly, but made in the shape of the letter “T”. In this case, the section of pipe that will be inserted into the drill barrel must have a diameter less than the diameter of the barrel. And at the same time, the handle should fit into the barrel unhindered, but not so much as to reduce the strength characteristics of the tool itself.
- Secondly: you need to make two through holes in the handle barrel, located perpendicular to each other. The distance between them is 5-6 cm.
- Thirdly: exactly the same holes with a diameter of 7 mm must be made on the drill barrel at the entry point of the handle. It turns out that both elements will be connected with two M6 bolts.
- Fourth: several pipes 1.5 m long are prepared, corresponding to the diameter of the handle barrel, in which the same holes are drilled at both ends. Locations are the same as on the handle barrel.
To lengthen a hand drill two or three times, you need to unscrew the fastening bolts, remove the handle, insert the pipe into the pipe, secure them with bolts, install a handle on the free end of the extended drill, attaching it with two bolts.
As for the diameter of the holes for the posts, this can also be changed if the knives are made removable. To do this, at the place where the knives are installed, it is necessary to weld two shelves cut from a strip 5 mm thick. You can make the shelf in the form of a circle with an internal hole for the tool pipe. A circle with a diameter of 8-10 cm is cut out of a sheet of iron, a hole is made in it for the pipe, and this element is installed and welded to the trunk. You must first make four through holes in it, two on each side. Removable knives will be attached to them.
Attention! Removable knives are fastened with M6 bolts. Installation of bolts should be done with the thread upward towards the handle. They simply in this position will not interfere with the process of drilling the soil.
You can increase the efficiency of the drill if you install between the knives and the tip additional element. This is, in fact, a flat cutter that will loosen the soil before inserting the knives and center the drill itself. A small addition will make it possible to increase the drilling speed, especially in hard soils and in places where there are a large number of plant roots in the ground.
It’s not difficult to make such a flat cutter with your own hands. To do this, you will need a plate 4-5 mm thick and 30 mm wide. Two pieces of 80 mm length are cut out of it. They are welded opposite each other to the drill barrel. The right edge of the additional knives becomes sharper. To prevent heavy loads from breaking the flat cutter, you can add two metal gussets to their fastening.
In principle, this is how you can make a hand drill with your own hands for digging holes for pillars. Let's face it, it won't take very long to make this tool, about two hours, no more.
Pillar – main architectural element many types of fences and buildings. To install it you need special tool, hand drill for poles. With its help, holes are selected in the ground into which the pillars are installed.
If necessary, motorized drills are used to make a large number of holes, but in private construction, in particular, during self-construction fences are used manual options such a tool. There are a lot of industrially produced models, but nothing prevents you from making your own drill that will satisfy local needs. And it will cost less than store-bought.
At least minimal skills in working with a welding machine and its availability are required.
Alternative option– production of custom-made tools according to the selected project. In this case, you will need to find performers and a suitable drawing.
Construction of an earth drill
Fundamentally, each drill consists of three main elements:
- Pike, which plunges into the ground first and centers the entire tool during the first stages of drilling. Some versions of auger drills and designs with an earth receiver are not equipped with a lance.
- Cutting part, made in the form of a screw, half disks or having another configuration.
- Solid or segmented rod, to the bottom of which the working elements are attached, and to the top - a handle or pin for connection to the motorized unit.
The different types and combinations of these elements make the difference between drill types. The garden auger is equipped with a peak and two blades, mounted on the main rod at a certain angle (usually 35-40 degrees to the perpendicular to the axis). This is not the most productive tool used for making planting holes or holes for small supports.
Auger drill– specific option for fast device wells for fencing supports. It is equipped with a spiral blade with several turns for removing soil, which is cut by a blade at the bottom of the auger.
The cutting edge of the blade should always remain the lowest point of the auger. Otherwise, the device will not be able to drill into the ground. Therefore, models with two to four semicircular blades are suitable only for making shallow holes for planting plants. The soil is directly cut by only one corner of one blade.
Drill with earth receiver It is a piece of large-diameter pipe, in the lower inner part of which blades are fixed, most often equipped with teeth. As the drill rotates, they fill the volume of the pipe above them, after which the tool is removed from the ground.
Drill for TISE piles is a tool of the previous type, equipped with a folding blade for creating channel extensions for pouring pile foundations. Sometimes, instead of a cutting part, the earth receiver is equipped with a blind bottom for collecting soil selected by a folding blade.
Making a drill
The main tools for self-made The drill is used by an angle grinder and a welding machine. The process begins with the selection and preparation of the main axis of the tool. A round (26.8-48 mm in diameter) or profile (20×20-35×35) pipe is suitable for this role.
You cannot make a garden auger from a profile square pipe with your own hands. For it, exclusively pipes with a round cross-section are used.
The required length is calculated by adding 50-60 cm to the depth of the future well. If the final value exceeds one and a half meters, you will need to make the bar collapsible. The connection mechanism can be any (threaded, cotter pin, or other), the main thing is that it can withstand the loads during rotation with resistance.
The pike is usually made separately. From a piece of pipe whose inner diameter is equal to the outer one, you can simply make a sharp tip or flatten the pipe, and then roll it into a spiral of one or two turns or sharpen it like the tip of a wood drill. Other options include soldering a narrow spiral screw. Good results shows the use of a forty-diameter wood drill. In this case, the diameter of the end drill must exceed outside diameter rods.
After the lance is welded to the axial rod (or its lower segment), you can begin constructing the main cutting part. To do this, an old saw blade from a circular saw, the diameter of which corresponds to the parameters required hole, cut into two equal halves. The resulting blades are welded to the main rod above the peak. The preferred angle to the perpendicular to the axis is 30-40 degrees, to the vertical - strictly 90. The cutting edges are sharpened.
Another, more productive option is to make a screw. For it, circles are cut from sheet iron, the diameter of which corresponds to the parameters of the required recess. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns of the future spiral (at least three). The blanks are stacked, after which a hole is drilled in their center, commensurate with the outer diameter of the pipe.
Afterwards, a small segment is cut out of the disks. The resulting parts must be welded to form a spring. Then it is stretched on a winch, the seams between the turns are welded on the reverse side and attached to the axle.
The final touch- handle. It is made from a piece of the same pipe that was used for the axial rod or a diameter more suitable for the hand. The mounting method depends on personal preference. The handle can be welded to the axle, reinforced with additional crossbars, or made removable.
Materials used
Depending on the type of drill being manufactured, they are used various materials, but the basis is always round or profile pipes and sheet metal (waste saw blades).
Pieces of pipe, parts of broken wood drills, and metal plates are used as pikes. Or models are made without peaks. Studs and nuts are used to connect the rod segments.
In general, the range of necessary and acceptable materials depends on the chosen design. It must be thought through before starting work.
Cutting elements and their fastening
The cutting part of earth drills can be removable or non-removable. However, detachable mounting is only permissible on versions with half blades or saw blades or sheet metal. To do this, shelves are attached to the main rod, located at the same angle as the blades. 2-3 holes are drilled in the shelves, to which the cutting parts are attached using bolts and nuts.
Replacement bits can also be made for drills with an earth receiver. To do this, in the reinforcing arc that attaches the bucket to the rod, it is necessary to make a flattening, drill a hole and cut a thread in it.
The screw cutting parts are rigidly attached to the axis. For drilling holes various diameters It makes sense to make several attachments for one handle.
Some modifications
- Straight crushing blades between lance and cutting edge.
- Multi-tier arrangement of blades with gradually increasing diameter.
- Power ribs between the corners of the blades and/or the axial rod.
- Receiver box to remove more soil in one go.
- Additional blade with 2-3 teeth for easier drilling in dense soils.
- Removable blades for quick replacement during the execution of work.
- And many others, the number of which is limited only by personal ingenuity.
Video
Drill for TISE piles
The fundamental difference between a drill for a device pile foundations consists in the presence of a folding blade and a container - a land receiver. It is often manufactured as a separate tool along with an auger drill for the actual wells.
The blade folding mechanism is a rod that moves a small piece of larger diameter pipe that is placed on the main rod. This movement activates a system of levers that lowers the blade.
Auger drill
To make multiple holes, it is better to use an auger drill. For one-time projects, a fishing ice pick is quite suitable. But for the mass installation of holes, it is better to purchase or make an appropriate drill from pipes and other materials.
In a “working” auger drill, only one edge of the blades protrudes. The second can be equipped with a comb with several teeth located slightly below the cutting plane.
If you have the time and money, using a motorized block and a special bed will help significantly speed up drilling holes for fence posts.
Blueprints
The abundance of designs allows you to create a highly specialized tool for personal needs. Let's look at some drawings of such options.
Shovel drill
When planting plants, the drilling depth is not critical. Therefore, you can donate an old shovel to make hole preparation easier. You should retreat 30 mm from the lower center point. Draw lines from it to the edges at an angle of 10-20 degrees. Then step back 30 mm from each edge and draw vertical lines. The bayonet segments located between the verticals and lines diverging from the center are cut out.
Then cut the marked 30mm from the bottom center point. Now all that remains is to bend the lower and side parts of the bayonet into opposite sides along the marked lines. Earth drill ready with your own hands.