Build a motor boat with your own hands from plywood. Do-it-yourself plywood boat drawings. Terminology. sheet characteristics. operating conditions requirements. Dimensions. Parameters of the future boat

Our main task in this case is to show the reality of assembling such a device as homemade plywood boats for a motor. That is, we will figure out how to make such a floating structure on which this engine could be hung to set it in motion.

In addition, you will be shown the video in this article, which corresponds to this topic.

Materials and device

Homemade flat-bottomed boats from such material (see photo above) have at least three inherent advantages that will always favor the purchase or self-manufacturing such a design.

First of all, this is its lightness, because glued veneer has a much lower specific gravity than a solid solid wood. Secondly, it is the stability of the body, which is mounted from whole pieces plywood and has clear geometric proportions, giving the boat for this quality.

Materials and Assembly Parts

• Perhaps the most attractive thing in such a design as home-made motor boats from plywood is the fact that any person who has certain skills in carpentry or even one who (as it is commonly called) “hands grow from where they need to” can literally assemble it for half a day.
  Agree that for a summer resident or just a vacationer, this factor is far from the last value, because most often plywood with boards can be purchased at the nearest store, but to carry a finished boat ...

• To assemble the structure in question, we need plywood, 6 mm thick, but it is imperative to monitor the condition of the veneer so that there are no cracks or swelling anywhere on the sheet. The board needs 25 mm thick from the rocks coniferous tree(spruce, pine, cedar, larch), but again without knots and cracks.

Recommendation. When choosing a type of wood for a boat, we most often come across spruce and pine, and here you need to take into account some points.
Spruce is whiter than pine and has more water resistance than is very good for sheathing, but do not forget that spruce boards can easily split when nailed.
Consider this feature when choosing a material.

Many boat builders want to get on the water as cheaply and quickly as they can and will use more low material, or take a chance on unproven veneers. Stories abound of builders using cheap plywood and then when it gets wet when the boat delaminates. My personal preference is to use good materials and longer to catch the boat. At least use plywood plywood if you can't find or can't afford a marine layer. Appearance may have voids inside, but the glue will be good.

• In addition to wood, we need certain geometric parameters boards, so their width should correspond to 305 mm and thickness - 25 mm. And we need a certain length for the stern and sides - 864 mm, and all dimensions must be adjusted as accurately as possible, since the parts will be fastened with self-tapping screws to the hull and any error will lead to its deformation.

Parts and Assembly

Parameters and number of parts of a homemade plywood boat

• Plywood or plank parts by themselves are unlikely to cause any difficulties in manufacturing, since their shape is quite simple. But, nevertheless, it is very important to maintain the exact dimensions in preparation. The fact is that homemade motorboats from plywood can become a floating craft only if the assembly is done correctly and there are no any cracks and gaps.
  That is why all joined edges must be very carefully adjusted so that they become close to each other (for tight joining of edges, it is advisable to grind them to remove all burrs and irregularities).

Advice. For installation of all parts available on the boat, use only galvanized or tin-plated self-tapping screws.
For sheathing, short screws 18 × 3 mm or 25 x 3 mm are most acceptable, but for elements such as the seat, side, feed (larger ones) it is better to use self-tapping screws 60 × 4 mm or 60 × 5 mm.

Epoxy is more expensive, but worth it. There are many different types epoxy resin, and it's very confusing for beginner boat builders. Essentially, your choice should be the tuning speed. Most epoxy resin suppliers will offer a standard resin and several different hardeners. Using a slower hardener will buy you time. More quick setup hardeners will shorten assembly time. In very warm weather, use a slower setting to counteract the temperature.

There are exposures designed for cold weather. There are many brands.

There are somewhat longer ones in Europe, but most boat builders have to learn how to join sheets together to make larger pieces. The classic way of lining plywood is to cut, grind, grind or bevel sand on each side of the sheets for bonding, and lap and glue the slopes using epoxy. The overlay should be 8 times the thickness.

• The bottom is at, but, nevertheless, it needs to be joined to the sides and stern, so the instruction requires the use of glue at the joints. You can use various waterproof brands, for example, VIAM-B / 3, but if there is none, then use thickly grated oil paint- taking into account the compression and swelling of the joint, it will not let water through.
  In addition to gluing the joint, it is tightened with self-tapping screws, and the minimum step should be 40 cm (or less), and the seams should also be caulked with a cloth or percale, soaked with AK-20 glue.
• A very important and crucial moment is the priming and painting of an already assembled product with your own hands, because all its water resistance largely depends on this. The boat is primed with drying oil, but not in the usual mode, but only after boiling the liquid.
  Hot drying oil is applied to the inside and outside of the boat, filling in all the joints, bends and bumps, and then allow it to dry completely. After that, you can paint your brainchild in any color you like or separate the shades - before the waterline and after it.

• A paddle for a boat can be made from a 35 mm birch board, but at the end, be sure to (K) file down a spike and make a handle there. (see also) Put a rubber ring on the spindle (handle) to prevent water from running off, and cover the end of the blade with a strip of brass, bending it on both sides. An oar, just like a boat, needs to be treated with drying oil and painted.

Conclusion

Now you just have to install the engine at the stern of the boat, secure it thoroughly and boldly go out into the expanse of a pond or lake. Do not forget only to lay a crate of 50 × 25 mm or 50 × 30 mm timber on the bottom so that the bottom does not squeeze through.

Despite the abundance of fishing and tourist boats in specialized stores, the most different forms and sizes, many are still interested in how to make a homemade plywood boat. main reason such interest lies, perhaps, in the indestructible craving of our compatriots for creative work.

Let you buy anything today, but in a home-made boat or dinghy, made according to drawings almost from the Fisherman magazine, there is some kind of indescribable charm.

In the article we will give some tips, using which you can quickly learn how to make boats - homemade plywood.

Materials and tools

Not so long ago, homemade plywood mini boats were very popular. This made it possible to work out methods for their manufacture, as well as to determine the most suitable materials.

Of course, today the list of available varnishes, impregnations and adhesives for plywood is much wider than it was even ten years ago - but for the manufacture of small-sized boats with our own hands, we do not need anything complicated:

• Plywood is the most important component. For the manufacture of boats, sheets of glued natural birch veneer with a thickness of about 5 mm are most often used. Separate parts, such as frames or keels, are cut from a thicker (10 - 15 mm) material.

Note!
In order to ensure sufficient reliability for the sides, only high-quality plywood should be used for sheathing, without cracks, delaminations, knots, etc.
Of course, the price of material of the first or second grade will be higher, but then you will be sure of the safety of your boat.

The wires should not be tense at this point. it is better to spin them until you assemble the boat. An extra pair of hands is helpful. It is also more convenient to work on a table or on horses or on short benches. Sooner or later you will look at your work and see the shape of the boat shape.

The boat on the left is now sewn together and ready to be fixed. Plans are combined a little differently. Sometimes the designer wants you to overlap the pieces. Sometimes plywood needs to be assembled in a corner. Regardless of your plan, make sure the plywood is in the correct position. Tighten the wires if necessary. Corners tend to need some hesitation and adjustments. A small gap is good and allows the epoxy to touch all surfaces. If you need to do more holes for additional wires ahead, this sometimes makes things easier.

• Wood is used for the installation of internal struts, the design of the sides, seats etc. It is advisable to use an edged planed board made of light wood species.
• The suture material is used to connect individual parts cladding in one piece. Seams can be made using a fairly thin and flexible wire, plastic clamps, thick nylon fishing line, etc.
• Glue is needed to ensure the seams are properly sealed.. To date, the masters have practically abandoned natural compounds based on casein, and prefer modern polymer resins.

In addition, we will need special varnishes and impregnations that protect the wood from swelling and decay. It is also worth stocking up with fiberglass or similar material for gluing all seams. As an alternative to fiberglass, fiberglass can be used - then the entire bottom and sides will be pasted over with it.

Well, do not forget about the paint - after all, we want our ship to be beautiful!

As for the tools, the set will be almost standard:

• Saw on wood.
• Electric jigsaw with a set of blades of different lengths.
• Sander.
• Hand tool(hammer, pliers, chisels, etc.)
• Clamps for clamping plywood when gluing.
• Brushes for impregnation, varnishing and.

Making a boat

Drawings and layout

Before starting work, we determine what kind of vessel we need. Today, on the net you can find a variety of drawings of home-made plywood boats, so nothing is impossible either in building a punt for fishing or in assembling a tourist kayak.

If none of the found drawings suits us, you can do the design yourself.

True, in this case, you will need certain skills to calculate the carrying capacity, otherwise the boat can turn out to be extremely decorative.

• Having studied the available projects of home-made plywood boats, or having made our own, we transfer the contours of the main details to paper.
• Using paper templates, we draw lines on plywood sheets along which frames and sheets for sheathing will be cut.
• If the factory length does not suit you (and this happens in 99% of cases), then it is necessary to splice them. To do this, we cut off the ends of the plywood at an acute angle so that the length of the resulting bevel is 7-10 thicknesses of the sheet itself.

• Having attached the beveled parts to each other, we coat them with glue and clamp them with clamps. This technique is called the connection "on the mustache."
• In parallel, we prepare wooden bars from which the frame of our future boat will be made.

Advice!
To facilitate the work on the project, you can assemble special goats from bars with a section of 50x50 mm.
It will be much more convenient to place all the details on these goats during the connection process, especially if you work without helpers.

Case assembly

When everything is ready, we begin work:

• Using a wood saw or electric jigsaw, . The indentation from the design size should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides will not “converge” during stitching.
• We glue the transom parts (tailgate) and frames to obtain the desired thickness and strength. Glued parts will be somewhat heavy, but it's not scary!
• If you plan to install outboard motor, then the transom should be additionally glued with fiberglass and reinforced with a hardwood board.

Advice!
To increase the strength of the connection, the frames and transoms can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.
In this case, the length of the self-tapping screws should be such that the point does not pierce the part through and through.

• We install the transom on pre-made goats and begin to attach the bottom and sides to it, bringing them together on the bow.
• We fasten the sheathing parts either with the help of suture material (if not very thick plywood is used), or exclusively with glue, cutting off the edge of the plywood at an angle.

• At this stage, it is very important that all elements converge in size, since in order to reduce the gap, it will be necessary to disassemble the entire structure and partially cut the frames.

After the "rough assembly" you can start gluing.

Adhesive work

The instructions for gluing and sealing our vessel are as follows:

• We prepare a mixture of epoxy resin and aerosil (silicon dioxide). We mix the components in a 1:1 promotion using a nozzle on a drill. The optimal consistency of the mixture is like thick sour cream.
• We strengthen the corners between the bottom, sides and transom with the help of wooden fillets - small corners that ensure the rigidity of the connection.
• Strips of fiberglass and fiberglass are glued to all seams from the inside, carefully lubricating the joints with an epoxy-aerosol composition.

Note!
Since the majority adhesive compositions contain volatile toxins, all paint and varnish work should be carried out using respiratory protection!

• After the glue has dried, we install the frames in the selected places.
• To fix the frames, we use the same glue. If the dimensions of the vessel are large enough, then in order to strengthen the structure, the frames should be additionally fixed on the bottom and sides with overlapping strips of fiberglass.

• We lay the flooring on the bottom, fasten the oarlocks, seats and other parts provided for by the design.
• If it is planned to equip the boat with a cockpit ( closed space in the bow), install the cover, fixing it on the sides and frames.

After waiting until the whole structure dries, we remove the boat from the goats, turn it over and grind the outer surface. Then we process the seams with an epoxy mixture and glue the bottom with fiberglass.

Coloring

At the final stage, we need to provide our boat with protection from moisture and give it an attractive outer appearance:

• First, carefully degrease all the details.
• Then we process the wood with impregnation. Here, the composition for sea or river vessels from Tikkurila is quite suitable.
• We putty all planes, masking cracks and irregularities, and then we process it with a special primer.
• Paint homemade plywood boats you can use almost any paint, but if you want to ensure the durability of the ship, then it is better to use special pigment mixtures designed for processing wooden ships.

• The average paint consumption is 1 - 1.5 l / m 2. It is best to apply it with a brush, but the use of an airbrush is also allowed.

Conclusion

homemade boat plywood made using this technology will be quite suitable for fishing trips, family walks, etc. Of course, it is not worth going out to the open sea in it, but as practice shows, for big rivers and lakes of our country, such a design is quite reliable. In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.