Contactless ignition on a VAZ by hand. Installing a contactless ignition system on a classic. Setting the ignition timing

As you know, recently many motorists have been using a contactless system. This is what manufacturers install on modern cars, but owners of VAZ classics have to watch with envy how well it functions on other cars. But why, because you can install such a system on your car yourself. This will be discussed in the article, which was written specifically for those who are just about to experience the advantages of using a contactless ignition system by carrying out the appropriate restyling.

General information about BSZ

What is BSZ and how does it differ from the contact system? This is where we begin our story. As is known, BSZ, as we will call modern system, which they intend to install, is entirely assembled using semiconductors. In other words, semiconductor elements are electronic components that do their job much better.

It is interesting that the voltage on the spark plugs in the BSZ does not decrease even at low speed of the power unit, thereby improving the starting conditions, which is very important in the cold season.
As for the name of the system, it implies the opening and closing of an electrical circuit without the use of mechanical contact. All you need is an electronic switch, through which the output transistor is unlocked or locked.

It is noteworthy that the BSZ is slightly different for carburetor and injection engines, but it is a mistake to believe that these are completely different systems.

Disadvantages of the standard ignition system on classic VAZ models

They exist and, probably, every VAZ owner has encountered the problems listed below. In general, this unit is reliable, but some features of the contact system add a “fly in the ointment.”

The main disadvantage, according to many owners and experts, is the presence of this very contact group, which is subject to mechanical wear of the cam and the contacts themselves, oxidation, vibrations, weakening and much more. Due to mechanical loads, the service life of the support bearing is also reduced. All of the above says one thing - the contact system is already outdated, both technically and morally. In its place, a completely different, more flexible and reliable system has long been invented, which we called BSZ.

The most interesting thing is that VAZ manufacturers cannot help but understand this. But for some reason they continue to equip their rear-wheel drive cars with this particular system, although BSZ was used on V8s 15 years ago.

It is worth noting, however, that there were still attempts to install contactless electronic devices on the classics, but things in this regard did not progress beyond the export line.

Having cited the disadvantages of a conventional contact ignition system, it would be illogical not to cite the advantages of the BSZ. First of all, the motorist will forget about the problems listed above, that’s for sure. But more importantly, he will receive a host of other irreplaceable benefits that distinguish new system ignition For example, a more powerful spark formed due to increased voltage in the entire circuit or 24 kV instead of the previous 18 kV, and much more. On vehicles where installation was carried out contactless ignition, combustion of the air-fuel mixture takes place in full, and the CO content in the exhaust is reduced. Other advantages of the system include better engine starting, which goes without saying. In a word, there are many more advantages, and the disadvantages are almost invisible against such a vast background of advantages. And judging by comparison, which is the most logical, then BSZ gives one hundred points ahead and the archaic contact system is clearly not even considered as a competitor or even an option.

If the above is not enough for someone to carry out a restyling, then we will make a “control shot” and present four main reasons why this installation on a classic is simply necessary.

There is no need to clean the contacts, adjust the gaps, etc. This a priori provides higher reliability in operation, and there is also no need to constantly monitor the operation, carry out periodic monitoring, etc.
The spark is stably distributed over all engine cylinders, due to the fact that there is no contact opening element with a cam. In addition, vibration and beating of the distributor axis, which is a characteristic disease on classic VAZ models, disappears.
The spark plugs have a high discharge, as mentioned, instead of 18 kV, 25 kV and even more. This ensures high-quality ignition of the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders. Accordingly, the mixture will burn completely, which will provide considerable fuel savings (about 5%). In addition, the CO level in the exhaust gases is reduced (by almost 20%).
Improves engine starting when low temperatures, due to the fact that the voltage will not decrease even at low engine speeds.

You can purchase BSZ at any specialized store. As a rule, if the system is installed on domestically produced cars, it is recommended to opt for BSZ, produced in our country. BSZ kits cost approximately 2,000 rubles, but in terms of reliability and service life they are not inferior to foreign analogues.

You can also order and buy BSZ via the Internet. Special sites do this and even sell the components of the kit separately: distributor, switch, coil, wires. BSZ is very easy to install and works flawlessly long years. It does happen, however, that a switch fails because it is too sensitive to weak fixation, but this is rather an exception to the rule. Otherwise, no drawbacks, except for the high price compared to conventional system, but the cost pays off during operation.

What does the BSZ consist of and how to install it

The BSZ distributor is a special sensor-distributor.

The switch is designed to interrupt the current in the coil circuit, and signals are supplied to it by a distribution sensor or, as we are more accustomed to calling it, a distributor.

A non-contact ignition coil is used to convert low voltage current to high voltage in order to provide a breakdown between the spark plug electrodes.

Wires and spark plugs are also included. On spark plugs for BSZ, a gap of 0.7-0.8 mm is used.

Let's get started:

On the old distributor we set the correct ignition.
Remove the cover with the distributor wires.
We disconnect the high-voltage wire from the coil.
Next, using short turns of the starter, we set the direction of the slider located at the top of the distributor. The slider is set exactly perpendicular to the engine, and then the crankshaft can no longer be turned.
Remove the old distributor.
We take a new one and remove the cover from it.
We insert it in place of the old distributor.
We combine them with the points that we marked on the old distributor (with the ignition set).
Now we put on a new cover, and then we put the wires on the distributor.
We also replace the coil with a new one.
We connect the wires.
We install the switch, preferably to the free space between the washer reservoir and the left headlight. We screw it on using regular self-tapping screws, first making it into the holes with a drill.
We check the operation of the wires according to the diagram.
We start the engine.

Don't forget to change the spark plugs. It is advisable to install good wires and not skimp on this. Having installed BSZ, you will immediately feel the difference and driving your car will be a pleasure.

We hope that the information provided was useful. If step-by-step instruction seems insufficient to you, you can always find a description of this process in various ways on the Internet.

Every owner of a legendary classic model VAZ 2106 knows well all the problems associated with the operation of this car, since in most cases it eliminates them on its own. Such problems also include malfunctions of the contact (cam) ignition system of the VAZ 2106. Constantly burning contacts required cleaning and adjustment; due to play in the bearing and distributor bushing, the engine operation resembled “shaking,” especially at idle. The system is designed to solve all these emerging problems.

electronic ignition

Principle of operation

The contactless ignition system of the VAZ 2106 includes such parts as: coil high voltage
for electronic ignition;
ignition distributor with built-in photoelectric sensor (Hall sensor);
switch;

connecting wires.

The scheme of work is as follows. The primary winding of the high voltage coil consists of a small number of turns of thick wire, is connected through a commutator to the battery and generator, and is constantly energized. When one of the pistons approaches its top dead center (TDC), a photoelectric sensor registers the ignition timing and sends a pulse to the switch, which immediately breaks the “primary winding of the coil -».
accumulator battery The secondary winding of the coil is great amount turns thin wire
The runner rotating on the shaft under the distributor cover transmits this impulse to the spark plug in the cylinder in which the piston has reached TDC. A powerful spark flashes from the spark plug and ignites the fuel.
The Hall sensor registers the passage of the TDC by the piston, the pulse to the commutator disappears, and it closes the circuit of the primary winding. The cycle begins again.

Since the fuel burns with certain speed and over a certain short period of time, a spark on the candle should appear at a certain moment. If this happens too early, the piston will have to overcome the resistance of the ignited expanding gases. If there is a delay, the fuel will burn during the working stroke of the piston, when it is already heading down.

In both cases, the engine will idle unstably, lose power and overheat. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to adjust the ignition timing. The optimal moment for ignition of the fuel occurs after the piston passes TDC and the crankshaft rotates 10-12°. This is the ignition timing.

It should be noted that electronic ignition for VAZ can be purchased either as a whole set or separately. Most car enthusiasts who have installed electronic ignition on their car recommend buying a kit for the VAZ 2106, which is produced in the city. Stary Oskol. In this case, practically no problems arise.

If you decide to purchase parts separately, then you need to pay attention to the length of the ignition distributor shaft. The fact is that modifications of the VAZ 2106 car were equipped with different engines, so before purchasing you need to look at the markings on the cylinder block. For cylinder blocks marked 2103 and 2106, the distributor comes with a longer shaft than for blocks marked 2101 or 21011.

This is due to the different piston strokes of these engines and the different block heights. In some cases, car enthusiasts install a crankshaft from a VAZ 21213 Niva instead of the standard one and thus increase the piston stroke on blocks 2101 and 21011. Such tuning does not in any way affect the length of the ignition distributor shaft, which must be selected according to the markings on the cylinder block.

Step-by-step instruction

To install electronic ignition, proceed as follows.

Turn the crankshaft with a crank or wrench until the mark on the shaft pulley aligns with the long mark on the cylinder block. When these marks are aligned in the first or fourth cylinder, the piston is in the TDC position. This can be easily checked by unscrewing the spark plugs and removing the distributor cover. The slider will point to either the 1st or 4th cylinder (you need to navigate by the cover on which the cylinder numbers are marked).
Remove the vacuum tube from the fitting, pull out the high-voltage wires from the distributor cover, unscrew the nut securing the distributor and remove it, having previously noted the position of the slider. During this operation, make sure that the gasket located between the ignition distributor and the cylinder block is not lost. By the way, it is also recommended to replace high-voltage wires with new ones when installing electronic ignition.
Take a new distributor, put a gasket on it and turn the shaft so that the slider is in the same position as on the old distributor. Install it onto the cylinder block and lightly tighten the fastening nut. Put on the cover, insert high voltage wires, connect them to the spark plugs. Connection diagram according to cylinder numbers - 1-3-4-2. Connect the vacuum tube.
Remove the old high voltage coil, install a new one in its place and connect the wires. By default, install parts purchased in one set. It comes with instructions and the wires are labeled. Otherwise, when dismantling, you should remember which of the wires was attached to the positive contact of the old coil.

Install the switch. For VAZ models produced in last years, there is a special place for it on the left side of the body (look as the car moves), next to the distributor. In older machines, you will have to carefully drill 2 holes and secure the switch with self-tapping screws. Connect the connector.
After installation, adjustment of the ignition timing is required. Ideally, this is done using a strobe light, but at first the adjustment can be done “by ear”. To do this, you should start the engine, let it run for half a minute, and then, carefully rotating the distributor by the body in different directions at an angle of no more than 15°, achieve stable operation engine at idle speed. Tighten the distributor fastening nut.

After installing a new ignition on the VAZ 2106, it is necessary to clean the spark plugs and adjust the gap between the electrodes.

The article is intended for people who have finally decided to modernize the ignition of their motorcycle. Installation options considered electronic systems ignition, both on the “Planet” and on the “Jupiter”. Moreover, the latter is available in single- and dual-channel versions.

1. Single-channel system for "Jupiter"

What do you need:
A). Switch for contactless electronic ignition of a VAZ car. You shouldn't skimp on it. I highly recommend the switch with the mysterious name "Booster" made in Germany. Its price is 100-150 rubles more expensive, but believe me, it’s worth it. Unlike the rest of his "brothers" model range it is made on a microprocessor, it has an emergency sparking mode in the event of a hall sensor failure, a plasma mode of up to 1000 rpm during engine startup, and most importantly, an autodiagnostic mode. If such a switch cannot be found, then, as a last resort, switch 0529.3734 manufactured in Vinnitsa will do. Take the switch only in its original packaging from a CAR STORE and with a warranty of at least a year. Average price 250 rub.
b). Hall Sensor. Any from the same VAZ, but also in the original packaging. I have one made in Kaluga.
I saw it at the market cardboard box, full of "left" sensors without packaging. Price - 50 rubles. cheaper. I will say one thing - a normal sensor costs about 110 rubles.
V). The ignition coil is two-terminal, from a Gazelle, but always from a 406 engine. You can take it from the Oka for electronic ignition, but its price is 250 rubles. - for 50 rub. more expensive than Gazelevskaya. There is absolutely no difference between them.
G). Two silicone armor wires. Price from 100 rub.
d). Four protective rubber caps for armored wires. Price 5 rub./pcs.
and). Two car candle holders. Price from 10 rub./piece. The standard ones will work if you skillfully disassemble them and throw out the built-in resistor.
h). Modulator

It needs to be sharpened by a turner. He will simply carve a disk and mark the angular distances on it. Then, at home, you will carefully cut out the necessary sectors. The modulator cost me 70 rubles. I don’t recommend installing a regular plate. Its width is no more than 12 mm, which is not enough to fully accumulate the energy of the coil. Of course, you can set it, but you won’t be able to see more than 4000 revolutions per minute.

And). Threaded rod M7 step 1 and two nuts and washers for it. It needs to be made 5-7 mm longer than the standard generator bolt. Moreover, it is advisable to make all of the above parts from brass for less magnetization of the modulator from the generator rotor. When using a standard bolt, difficulties arise with installing the ignition. When tightening the bolt after accurately installing the modulator, the first one tries to turn the modulator behind it. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the advance indicator, hold the rotor and modulator motionless relative to each other and tighten the bolt itself. It turned out to be beyond my power and I made a hairpin.
To). If you have an extra 150 rubles. then a wiring kit with connectors for contactless ignition of a VAZ. If not... what to do, I’ll write how to do it myself.

Well, have you bought everything and are ready to collect? Go...

The old ignition system (breaker contacts, ignition coils, capacitors, armored wires) is completely eliminated. The switch is installed in the right glove compartment, the ignition coil is under the tank. Unfortunately, there are no holes or fastenings for the bracket on the reel, so I couldn’t think of anything better than to tape it to the frame with a thick layer of electrical tape. The standard generator bolt is also removed along with the ignition distributor cam. Instead of a bolt, the aforementioned M7 stud is screwed in, a washer is put on (its diameter is approximately 10-12 mm), and then the rotor is tightened with a nut screwed onto the stud. Then we attach the hall sensor to the stator as desired, using any available materials. For example, all I needed was a piece of a grinded radiator from a transistor (I found it in the basement), a drill and two self-tapping screws. I have it at the very bottom of the generator. The main thing during installation is to maintain the diameter of the modulator (the gap between the lower partition of the hall sensor and the modulator should be 1-1.5 mm) and the alignment of the fastening (the radius of the modulator should pass along the axis of symmetry of the hall sensor). I also screwed the sensor connector to the side of the generator. After installing the hall sensor, put on the modulator and see if it fits into the sensor slot. If not (and this is 90%), then we place spacer washers on the stud. After the required gap has been maintained, we install the grower and tighten (slightly, by hand) the modulator with another nut.
Next steps.
We put rubber caps on the armor wires, and insert the armor wires themselves (they should have special copper tips) into the candlesticks and into the coil. We pull the above-mentioned caps on top. If you don't do this, you'll push the motorcycle on foot when riding in the rain. We immediately insert the spark plugs into the tips and ensure reliable contact with the “ground” of the motorcycle.
If you still didn’t regret 150 rubles. and bought a wiring kit, it’s already easier. We simply connect the switch, hall sensor and coil with wires. Moreover, we “pack” the wires into a PVC tube or simply wrap them with electrical tape. Of the entire purchased heap, we will need to display only the general “plus” of the system on the “panel”. We “lead” it to the right “Move-Stop” switch, having previously unsoldered the standard wires from it. We connect the second wire from the switch to terminal “1” of the ignition switch (the second wire from the same terminal goes to the signal).
Well, if you “sandwiched” 150 wooden... You will need 7-8 meters of wire (with a cross-section of at least 1.5 - for example with old wiring motorcycle or car), a soldering iron and a dozen car “mothers”. We take the “mother”, cut it lengthwise, solder the wire to the half, put the tube on top PVC suitable diameter We assemble the wiring using this principle (this is exactly how I do it, only after I glued it together) PVC tubes“moment”, already inserted into the switch, so as not to confuse them later).

Well, it looks like everything is assembled, you can configure it.

If you still find a “Booster” switch, great, and if you also have an electronic tachometer, even better. We simply turn on the ignition, connecting the tachometer according to the diagram and wait 30 seconds without rotating the modulator. After 30 sec. we should see the values on the tachometer - 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000 rpm. Eat? Congratulations! The commutator and coil work as they should. If there is no tachometer, we just look at the spark plugs, which we once grounded to ground. Oh, how beautiful the spark is at 5000 rpm. If the switch is not a “Booster”, take a screwdriver, insert it into the slot of the hall sensor and pull it out. At this moment there should be a spark (on both spark plugs). By the way, it wouldn’t hurt to check the “Booster” switch in this way, thereby determining the functionality of the hall sensor.
If after the above steps there is still no spark, check the connections are correct. I assure you that if you use “not left-handed” components, everything should work as it should.
Now setup. We screw in the dial indicator, adjust the piston of one of the cylinders to TDC, move it back 2.8 mm (when using AI-92 gasoline, it is advisable to reduce the angle to 2.5 mm). Next, we connect a voltmeter between the second and third terminals of the hall sensor and begin to slowly turn the modulator (we haven’t tightened it yet). As soon as you “catch” the transition from 7 to 0.1 Volts, fix the modulator with a nut. Be sure to check the lead angle. It still won't work out right the first time.
Well, what can I say, we screw in the spark plugs, put on the spark plugs, pump up the gas... Drin-dyn-dyn... Soft rustling of the engine, no detonation, idling 500 rpm and excellent battery charging... Now you have a BSZ too.

2. BSZ for "Jupiter" in a two-channel version

Actually, I don’t see the need to assemble such a circuit. Although on the forum I have repeatedly met people who want to install this option. There are two advantages here - if one of the channels fails, you can “finish” it home on one “pot” and the ability to set the ignition timing separately for each cylinder. There are many more disadvantages - increased power consumption, variation in switch parameters, decreased reliability due to the large content of circuit elements, problems with connecting the tachometer... What, you’re not convinced? Then go ahead.
You will need another switch, a hall sensor and a wiring kit. The coils can be left standard; I didn’t notice much difference between them and the coils from VAZ. Is it just an increased size and higher current consumption? The modulator is sharpened similarly to the previous one, only the “unnecessary” sector is cut out manually (see Fig. 5). But the setting here is completely different. First, the locations for installing the sensors on the generator stator are selected ( important condition- sensors must be strictly symmetrically opposite each other). The method of attaching one of the sensors is the same as in the first case for Jupiter. But the second sensor... It must be secured using the “floating” method. That is, when loosening the sensor mounting bolts, it should move strictly along the installation radius by +/- 5 mm (similar to the contacts of a breaker).
Next, we bring one of the pistons to TDC, move it 2.8 mm (2.5 mm) back, rotate the loose modulator until a transition of 7 - 0.1 Volt appears (naturally on the first, rigidly fixed sensor) and tighten the modulator. Checking the lead angle. After that, we also bring the second piston to TDC, again back by 2.8 mm, and by moving along the radius of the second sensor we achieve a transition of 7 - 0.1 Volt at its output. Then tighten the sensor bolts. Now I advise you to check everything again. Right? Then the adjustment is complete.

3. BSZ for "Planet"

Everything is the same as for “Jupiter” in a single-channel version, with the exception of the shape of the modulator, taken as for “Jupiter” in a two-channel version

and ignition coils. The ignition coil is standard. I think, having read the two previous points, there will be no problems with installing the ignition.

If it is not possible to make modulators with sectors, you can do it as shown in Fig. 6 and fig. 7.

But I warn you, with such modulators your motorcycle may not develop sufficient speed. For example, this happened to me.
In Fig. 8 shown electrical diagram wiring for MY motorcycle.

Finally, a few tips:
1. Do not allow the BSZ to operate with the battery disconnected. Check the connections to avoid unexpected battery disconnection.
2. It is prohibited to remove the spark plugs while the ignition is on.
3. If, when installing the generator cover, the BSZ completely refuses to work, swap the generator excitation winding brushes.
4. Check the on-board voltage with the engine running. A strong scatter of parameters can affect the operation of the BSZ, or even damage it (if the voltage exceeds 16 V).

Well, that's probably all. Good luck.

Every owner of the legendary classic VAZ 2106 model knows well all the problems associated with the operation of this car, since in most cases he eliminates them on his own. Such problems also include malfunctions of the contact (cam) ignition system of the VAZ 2106. Constantly burning contacts required cleaning and adjustment; due to play in the bearing and distributor bushing, the engine operation resembled “shaking,” especially at idle. The electronic ignition system is designed to solve all these emerging problems. Electronic ignition for the six

Scheme

Scheme of the contactless ignition system of the VAZ 2106:
1 — ignition distributor sensor; 2 — spark plugs; 3 — screen; 4 - contactless sensor; 5 - ignition coil; 6 - generator; 7 — ignition switch; 8 - battery; 9 - switch

Installation

first of all, it is necessary to set TDC - 4 cylinders (we look at the position of the slider), this must be done by turning the crankshaft ratchet to the mark on the pulley, combining marks 4 and 3 in the figure);

dismantle the distributor, spark plugs and coil (remembering the color of the wires suitable for the ignition coil);

install new wiring;

install a new high-voltage ignition coil;

We install the distributor exactly as the old one was (the installation of electronic ignition for VAZ 2106, 2103, 2107 with 1.5 and 1.6 liter engines is slightly different from other models. These engines have different heights of the cylinder block and, accordingly, different lengths drive shaft distributor);

we attach the switch (it is advisable to find a place on the engine compartment panel);

screw in the spark plugs and put on the high voltage wires (working order 1-3-4-2);

connect the wiring as in the diagram:

How to display

For the work you will need a 12-volt indicator light, a 13-volt wrench and a crankshaft wrench:

You need to set the ignition with the engine not running, with the negative terminal of the battery disconnected.

Set the piston of the first cylinder of the internal combustion engine to the ignition position. To do this, you will need to unscrew the spark plug from it. Plug the spark plug hole with your finger and at the same time turn the crankshaft clockwise with a wrench.

When there is a compression stroke, air under pressure will begin to push the finger out strongly - this is what is needed.

Now it is important to clearly align the mark on the pulley with the second one, which you look for on the timing cover. The mark in the middle means that the ignition advance is set to 5 degrees.

It happens that some people cannot find their marks. But in fact, there are always marks. Just scrub the surfaces well with a metal brush and turn up the light.

After setting the marks, you can remove the key. Wrap the removed spark plug back and connect the armor wire.

The next stage of work will be ignition timing determination:

Before you begin, connect the negative terminal of the battery.

Using a 13mm wrench, you need to slightly loosen the ignition distributor mounting nut.

Here you will need a prepared test light with two wires. We connect one terminal to ground, the second to the low-voltage ignition coil.

Turn on the ignition by turning the key to position “I”.

You need to carefully turn the ignition distributor housing clockwise until the warning light goes out.

After this, you need to smoothly turn the distributor rotor counterclockwise until the contact is open and the light comes on again.

Now you need to tighten the mount and check the behavior of the car while driving.

Adjustment

Contact angle correction in closed state

Adjusting the ignition of the VAZ 2106 begins with the simplest operation of removing the distributor cover, then turning the crankshaft until the maximum distance between it and the distributor is reached. After this, they begin to unscrew the screws securing contact group on the bearing plate and between the contacts, a probe is inserted to determine and select the optimal position for the group. Ideally, everything is determined by the force applied to move the probe, which should be minimal; having found an area that meets this requirement, the position of the group is fixed by tightening the screws. The size of the gap also matters; to determine it, the thickness of the feeler gauge should be 0.44 millimeters. It is the adjustment of the gap that provides the required value of the angle of closed contacts; its optimal value is 55±3°.

If the parameters correspond to the norm, then you can proceed to the second stage, which consists in adjusting the advanced ignition angle. To begin with, let us determine that the distributor chopper in the type of engine under consideration needs to realize the opening moment simultaneously with the spark in the first cylinder. This involves ahead of the top dead center piston stroke for the first cylinder by 0±1°.

Lead angle correction using a strobe light

There are several ways to adjust this indicator, on which the correct ignition adjustment of the VAZ 2106 as a whole largely depends. The most efficient way to cope with this task is to use a strobe light. The device must be connected to the vehicle electrical network, and the vacuum correction hose must be removed and plugged from the distributor. Following this, the engine is warmed up until it holds idle speed followed by loosening the bolt responsible for fixing the distributor body.

The light emitted by the strobe is directed to the crankshaft pulley; rotating the distributor body will allow you to achieve a position that ensures that the visible position of the mark on the pulley is opposite the corresponding marks marked on the timing cover. In this position, the distributor body is fixed by tightening it with bolts. The presence of idle speed of the power unit during the adjustment process is of decisive importance. If the speed is higher, the centrifugal regulator will take part in the work, which will distort the adjustment results.

Malfunctions

Cause of malfunction	Remedy
Engine won't start
The switch does not receive voltage pulses from the contactless sensor:	Do the following:
– a break in the wires between the ignition sensor-distributor and switch
– contactless sensor is faulty	– check the sensor using an adapter connector and a voltmeter; faulty replace the sensor
No current pulses are supplied to the primary winding of the ignition coil:	Do the following:
– a break in the wires connecting the switch to the switch or with ignition coil	– check the wires and their connections; replace damaged wires
– switch is faulty	– check the switch with an oscilloscope; replace faulty switch
– the ignition switch does not work	– check and replace the faulty contact part of the ignition switch
High voltage is not supplied to the spark plugs:	Do the following:
– loosely seated in the sockets, tips torn off or oxidized high voltage wires; the wires are heavily soiled or damaged insulation	– check and restore connections, clean or replace wires
– wear or damage to the contact carbon, its freezing in the cover of the ignition sensor-distributor	– check and, if necessary, replace the contact angle
– current leakage through cracks or burnouts in the cover or rotor ignition distributor sensor, through carbon deposits or moisture on the inner surface covers	– check, clean the cover from moisture and carbon deposits, replace the cover and rotor, if they have cracks
– burnout of the resistor in the rotor of the ignition sensor-distributor	– replace the resistor
– the ignition coil is damaged	– replace the ignition coil
The spark plug electrodes or the gap between them are oily not up to standard	Clean the spark plugs and adjust the gap between the electrodes
Spark plugs are damaged (cracked insulator)	Replace the spark plugs with new ones
The order of connecting high voltage wires is violated to the terminals of the ignition sensor-distributor cover	Connect the wires in firing order 1–3–4–2

The engine runs erratically or stalls at idle
Ignition too early in engine cylinders	Check and adjust ignition timing
Large gap between spark plug electrodes	Check and adjust the gap between the electrodes
The engine is uneven and unstable operates at high crankshaft speeds
The springs of the weights of the ignition timing regulator in the sensor-distributor have weakened ignition	Replace the springs, check the operation of the centrifugal regulator on the stand
Interruptions in engine operation at all modes
The wires in the ignition system are damaged, the fastening is loose wires or their tips are oxidized	Check the wires and their connections. Replace damaged wires
Wear of electrodes or oiling of spark plugs, significant soot; cracks in spark plug insulator	Check the spark plugs, adjust the gap between the electrodes, damaged spark plugs replace
Worn or damaged contact carbon in the sensor-distributor cover ignition	Replace the contact angle
Severe burning of the central contact of the sensor-distributor rotor ignition	Clean the center contact
Cracks, contamination or burns in the rotor or cover of the distributor sensor ignition	Check, replace rotor or cover

The engine does not develop full power and does not have sufficient pickup
Incorrect ignition timing setting	Check and adjust ignition timing
The weights of the ignition timing regulator are stuck, weakened weight springs	Check and replace damaged parts
The commutator is faulty - the shape of the pulses on the primary winding ignition coil is not up to standard	Check the switch using an oscilloscope, replace the faulty switch

Most owners of VAZ cars, which are commonly called “classics,” encounter frequent problems with ignition. The thing is that, despite the general reliability of this car unit, it has one serious drawback - the contact group of the breaker, which immediately has a lot of inherent defects that every now and then cause problems with ignition. If you are tired of repairing your factory ignition system on your VAZ 2106, then think about installing a contactless ignition system that will solve most of your problems.

Note that by replacing the factory ignition system with a contactless one, you will not only no longer experience most of the problems with ignition, but also get some additional benefits, including great dynamism vehicle, as well as easier engine starting at subzero temperatures. Also during startup, the engine plays an important role, about malfunctions of which you can get information on our website.

What is the difference between a non-contact spark ignition system and a factory ignition system?

Unlike the factory ignition design, the contactless one uses the opening and closing of the output transistor to close and open the circuit. Thanks to this design, the voltage on the vehicle’s spark plugs increases, and the spark charge begins to produce more energy. Plus, thanks to this design, the voltage on the electrodes of the car’s spark plugs does not drop at low engine speeds, which has a positive effect on starting the engine in adverse conditions.

5. Spark plug system for supplying spark to the cylinder system
The gap of the BSZ spark plugs on a sixth series AvtoVAZ car is from 0.7 to 0.8 millimeters. This allows you to punch air gap and ignite a flammable substance in the vehicle’s cylinder system.

What devices should you prepare for installing the BSZ on the “six”?

To replace the factory “six” ignition system with an ignition system with a contactless electric spark supply, you need to prepare the following set of accessories:

1. Key for eight, ten and thirteen.
2. Phillips screwdriver.
3. Electric drill and metal drill, with a diameter that matches the diameter of the screws.
4. Two self-tapping screws.

Video. Do-it-yourself electronic ignition installation for VAZ 2106

Installation of a contactless ignition system for a VAZ 2106

Installation of an ignition system with a non-contact supply of an electric spark to the cylinder system should be done only after the distributor has been fully adjusted.

1. First of all, you need to remove the cover from the distributor, to which the high voltage electrical wires are attached.

3. Due to short activations of the starter system, it is necessary to set the resistor line, which should be perpendicular to the engine. Once you set the resistor direction, you will no longer be able to crank the vehicle's engine until all work is completed.

4. There are five marks on the right side of the distributor housing that serve for correct ignition adjustment. To install the new distributor correctly, you should make a mark on the car’s engine in a place opposite the middle mark of the old distributor.

5. Now you need to disconnect the wire that connects the coil and the distributor, and also use a thirteen key to unscrew the distributor nut that secures it and dismantle it.

7. After the distributor is located in its normal place and adjusted to the mark, you need to secure it with a nut.

8. After this, we install the cover in its rightful place, which is intended for the distributor that was installed in the previous step. Once the cover is mounted, it is necessary to make a connection to it electrical wires high voltage.

9. The next step is to change the coils, since the coil is from traditional system ignition system is not suitable for an ignition system with contactless supply of an electric spark to the cylinder system.

10. Next, you need to connect all the standard wires to the mounted coil ignition system. It is very important not to forget to connect the three pin electrical wire high voltage, which connects the distributor and the coil.

11. Now you need to install the switch. All you have to do is place it in the free zone, which is located between the left headlight and the washer. To secure it, we drill holes under its ears with an electric drill and secure them with self-tapping screws. Don't forget to connect it to the ignition system with the appropriate wire.

12. Next, you should check if all the wires are connected correctly. You need to focus on the diagram that comes with the contactless ignition system, and is also available in the service book for the vehicle.