Mason begonia. Mason's begonia - description and care at home What is special about Mason's begonia

Mason's begonia, also called "Maltese cross" and "staghorn", is distinguished by extremely showy foliage and at the same time faded and useless flowering.

Read more about this original indoor plant further in the article.

Description of indoor plant

This is a home-cultivated herbaceous perennial cannot be confused with any other thanks to its impressive leaves with a five-lobed cross pattern somewhat reminiscent of a stylized Maltese cross. The leaves themselves can reach a length of up to 0.2 m, have an asymmetrical heart-shaped shape, are colored yellowish or green tones, have a lumpy surface dotted with many small hairs.
With age, the leaves acquire a pronounced silver tint. The pattern on the leaves itself is in dark green or dark brown tones. The leaf mass forms a bush with a maximum height of 0.3 m and a tuberous root system. Twice a year, in spring and summer, small greenish flowers appear on the plant, collected in panicles. Any decorative value these flowers do not represent anything and look poor against the backdrop of luxurious foliage. Moreover, they also do not produce seeds, i.e. they are deprived and practical value. Mason's begonia lives at home on average up to 20 years, but in favorable conditions it can live for a quarter of a century.

Did you know? In addition to its external beauty, begonia also has internal advantages that help it purify the indoor air from harmful substances and microbes.

Optimal conditions for growing at home

This flower does not belong to the overly capricious species of house plants, but it does require some effort on the part of gardeners when growing it.

Location and lighting

This begonia feels best on windowsills facing southwest or southeast, where there is powerful but diffuse lighting. This plant does not like exposure to direct sunlight. At the same time, it does not tolerate low light conditions, in which its leaves lose their brightness and expressiveness. With a lack of light, Mason's begonia responds well to artificial lighting.

Temperature

The most favorable temperature for the comfortable existence of the described plant is in the range of +18...+25°C. In winter, during the dormant period, the flower's temperature may be slightly reduced, but it should be remembered that it reacts extremely negatively to temperature changes, and temperatures below +15°C can generally be detrimental to it. Drafts are also contraindicated for Mason's begonia.

Air humidity

This plant is sensitive to ambient humidity, which should be at least 70%. To ensure a humid atmosphere in the room, it is recommended to use humidifiers, as well as place the flower pot in damp pebbles or expanded clay.

Important! To improve the humidity regime, you should never spray begonia leaves with water, as this can cause putrefactive processes and disease. powdery mildew.

Home care

In addition to the generally accepted watering, fertilizing and pruning, caring for Mason's begonia also includes some actions related to the winter period in the life of the plant. If its leaves begin to dry out in the fall, this means that it is preparing for the winter dormant period. Based on this signal, it is necessary to stop fertilizing, reduce the intensity of watering and increase the level of air humidity.
It is useful to arrange greenhouse conditions for begonias during this period by covering the plant transparent film. The dormant period can last only half a month, or it can last up to 2 months, after which the plant begins to awaken, releasing new shoots. After this, the cover must be removed.

Top dressing

Begonias must be fed monthly, with the exception of the dormant period, using fertilizers designed specifically for begonias. But it should be borne in mind that since the flowers on this plant do not represent any value, and main role its original leaves play in it; nitrogen should predominate in fertilizers, stimulating the growth of green mass. Fertilizing must necessarily be combined with pre-watering, so as not to burn sensitive areas. root system flower.

Features of watering

During the growing season, the average watering frequency should be 2 times a week. Air humidity and room temperature can make adjustments to the intensity of watering, so it is necessary to monitor the condition of the top layer of the substrate, which should be slightly dry before watering. This is explained by the fact that begonia, no less than drought, cannot tolerate excess moisture in the ground.

Important! Under no circumstances should water accumulate or stagnate in the pan under the pot with begonia.

How to prune and replant correctly

Begonia is usually pruned in October before it goes into winter period rest, removing dried and damaged leaves. In addition, Mason's begonia often undergoes specific pruning of flowering shoots. Flowers that have neither decorative nor practical value are an unnecessary burden for the plant and significantly accelerate its aging. Pruning is also carried out before transplanting the bush into a new, more spacious pot.
This operation is carried out annually or once every 2 years in the spring, during the period between winter dormancy and the beginning of active growing season, and is accompanied by preliminary pruning of excess leaves. Then the earthen lump is removed from the pot, the soil is carefully removed from the root system, which is then placed in new pot. Previously, it is placed on the bottom of a new and simpler container. drainage layer from small pebbles, crushed bricks or expanded clay. The roots of the transplanted begonia are covered with a substrate that is not compacted to ensure better access of oxygen to the roots. After this, the transplanted bush is watered, and excess water is immediately removed from the pan.

Reproduction methods

The absence of seeds in this type of begonia allows this flower to be propagated only by the vegetative method through:

  • rooting leaves;
  • tuberous division.

Using leaves

To propagate begonia through leaves, you must:

  1. Cut off the healthiest looking leaf with a cutting from the begonia bush.
  2. Notch sheet plate along the veins or make transverse notches on the veins.
  3. Place the sheet, pressing it tightly, onto the ground.
  4. Lightly sprinkle the leaf with substrate.
  5. Set up an impromptu greenhouse over the leaf using a plastic bag or glass jar.
  6. Place it in a warm and bright place.
  7. Wait until, after about half a month, sprouts appear from the leaf in the places of the cut or notches.

By dividing the tubers

Reproduction of Mason's begonia through tuberous division proceeds as follows:

  1. A tuber with a length of at least 6 cm is selected with the obligatory presence of buds on it.
  2. The cut area on the tuber is treated with wood ash.
  3. The tuber is buried in a moist substrate.
  4. The container with the tuber is covered with a plastic bag or glass jar to create a greenhouse effect, allowing you to maintain the temperature in an improvised greenhouse higher than in the room.
  5. Then the container is moved to a place with good lighting.
  6. After the sprouts appear, the covering is removed, and the sprouts themselves are seated in separate containers.

Did you know? The tubers of many begonias are not only edible, but also have high gastronomic qualities, often reminiscent of the taste of citrus fruits.

Mason's begonia (Begonia masoniana) belongs to the Begoniaceae family. Begonias are found in tropical and subtropical areas of the world, except Australia. There are especially many species found in the Amazon forests. The Begoniaceae genus is very extensive, containing up to 1800 species.

Mason's begonia has a stem that has developed into thick, fleshy rhizomes, short roots grow from the rhizomes, the opposite side leaves on long, reddish and slightly pubescent petioles. Leaves are the biggest decoration of a plant. A leaf blade with a specific texture, as if created from fused, convex pustules. The pustule ends at the apex with bristly and reddish hairs. The leaves, apple green in color with a chocolate brown pattern, are associated with the Iron Cross (German Order), or cross, on the shields of the Crusaders. The Anglo-Saxons call the species “Iron cross begonia” - “Begonia - iron cross”.

It is quite rare for a flower shoot to grow. Begonia flowers are dioecious, the flower is either male with four sepals (begonia flowers do not have true petals) and stamens or female, has five sepals and a style. The flowers are not attractive, it is better to remove them; flowering weakens the plant. Those who understand pollination will receive a bag-shaped fruit with numerous and small seeds.

It is quite rare to obtain botanical forms of the species and variety.

  • – with hard leaves and a smooth surface. The design on the sheet is slightly different, outlined in a darker color.
  • - similar in appearance, only the chocolate pattern is outlined in a darker green stripe than the rest of the leaf.

Description

IN wildlife found in the territories of Southeast Asia from China to New Guinea. Height, depending on the amount of light, from 45 to 60 cm. Flowering time, blooms irregularly, can bloom at any time. Flower color, more often white with a touch of greenery.

Place, like forest begonia, will not tolerate harsh sun. IN tropical forests bright and sufficient amount of diffused light. For the summer period, the window sill of the north, north-east or north-west window. Any other side is too sunny and the plant is installed behind a curtain. You can’t place it far from the window, the flower will stretch out and lose the pattern on the leaves. For the winter period, the window sill of the east, west window. On south side behind the curtain. In winter weather, even the window sill of a south window is safe, but in bright winter sun It’s better to move it behind the curtain. It is necessary to provide a place free from drafts and fumes from gas stoves. Temperature is also important. Begonia is thermophilic; in winter it is necessary to ensure a temperature of 18 °C. A drop just below 15°C can kill the plant.

In summer you can take it outside to a shady place in the garden, it loves fresh air.

Care

Begonia is a plant of forest soils, therefore permeable and containing a large number of organic substances ( acidic soils). It is enough to buy a mixture for flowers. In order not to destroy the begonia high humidity(concerns the bottom of the coma), mix the soil with bark, fine gravel, and vermiculite. The begonia is transplanted into a larger pot when the roots outgrow the soil. After bringing the plant home, check the condition of the roots by removing them from the pot; the next check will be in the spring. Water when upper layer the earth will dry up. Boiled and warm water is used. Begonias are grown in small pots, tap water will quickly change the acidity of the soil. If the begonia is not replanted, fertilizing begins immediately. The plant doesn't like high concentrations salts in the soil, it is worth fertilizing more often, in more limited doses. It is better to fertilize every week, no more than ¼ of the recommended dose. The bigger problem is to maintain high humidity air. In rain forests, the moisture in the air is close to 100%. Thus, a tray with constantly wet pebbles is the only solution. Begonia leaves should not be sprayed. The texture of the leaves causes water retention in the depressions, leading to the rapid appearance of powdery mildew.

Begonia is not pruned, does not form above-ground shoots, only leaves.

In winter, many people experience massive wilting and death of leaves. If the rhizome is hard, this is a sign that the begonia has entered a dormant state. Watering is limited, despite the temptation to water the wilting plant more. Watering is done so that the roots do not dry out. When there is more light, the pot, after a little watering, is placed under a hood while maintaining a normal temperature; after about 6-8 weeks, young healthy leaves will appear. At the end of the dormant period, large rhizomes can be divided into several parts and planted in small pots.

Reproduction

Propagation of Mason's begonia is troublesome. Leaf cuttings rot easily due to the corrugated structure of the leaf. You need to wait six months for new plants to appear. To limit contact between the wet soil surface and leaf blades The sheets are placed vertically. The soil of the seedlings should not touch the leaves. The best way propagation - dividing the rhizome. The rhizome is cut into pieces of at least 3-4 nodes, not shorter than 8 cm, the cuttings are pressed into moist soil. The cuttings are covered with film and placed in a warm place. The seedlings should not be exposed to direct sunlight. After about 2 months, leaf buds appear. In the case of Mason's begonia, it is recommended to purchase an adult plant.

Diseases and pests

Begonias often experience lethargy in their compact leaf habit and accelerate the falling of old leaves. There may be two reasons for the condition. The first common one is abundant watering, the second one is too heat and too little air humidity. Much the best option– place the begonia on a covered and shaded terrace.

The most common diseases are gray mold and powdery mildew, appear when leaves get wet during watering.

Of the most dangerous pests should be called spider mite. Pests are difficult to remove due to wrinkled leaves. Several sprays with different insecticides will be required.

If the leaves fade and growths on the roots are visible under a magnifying glass, the begonia is infected with nematodes. Deformed leaves with bright spots indicate viral diseases. Both diseases are acquired together with the plant or with contaminated soil taken from a garden or field. Unfortunately, from viral diseases There are no medicines, the plants must be burned so as not to infect others.

Notes

The Latin name of the genus “Begonia” comes from the name of the famous botanist Michel Begon. The name of the species comes from the surname of Maurice Mason, who brought the plant to England from Singapore in 1952.

Mason's begonia is the most beautiful representative of decorative deciduous plants. A compact, quickly forming bush, reaching a height of 20–25 cm, will fit perfectly into any interior, and the unusual color of the variegated leaves will undoubtedly attract attention, making this flower the center of your green collection.

The key to success when growing this type of begonia is proper organization watering during the period of active growth and the creation of all necessary conditions for the rest period, which most often occurs in November-February.

The decorative value of this begonia mainly lies in the unusual color of the leaves - a black cross-shaped pattern on a bright green leaf plate with dense pubescence. In more mature plants, the leaves may take on a faint silver tint.

Basic rules for caring for Mason's Begonia

Manson's begonia (Begonia Masoniana) is an unpretentious plant that does not require special conditions content. Prefers loose, well-aerated soils with excellent throughput, when landing it is necessary to create good drainage(place at the bottom of the pot) to avoid stagnation of water, which can cause root rot, especially when the ambient temperature drops sharply.

Watering should be moderate, it is best to use water for this room temperature. Before next watering The top layer of soil should dry out by 2 cm.

Spraying on the green mass is undesirable - the leaf plates are quite fragile and susceptible to rotting, therefore, if there is insufficient air humidity in the room, you can use air humidifiers, or place containers with water near the pot with this flower.

As for the light mode, diffused light will be the best option for such begonias, sharp active sunlight can contribute to a change in the color of the leaf plate, which will ultimately lead to the loss of the decorative value of the plant, as well as insufficient lighting.

Feeding is carried out only during the period of active growth, that is, from the beginning of March to the end of October, with complex mineral nutritional compositions, twice a month.

If in the fall you begin to notice that the adult leaves on your Mason begonia are gradually beginning to die off, this is sure sign to the beginning of the rest period. It is necessary to gradually reduce the frequency and volume of watering, and then reduce it altogether, while trying to increase air humidity. The temperature of the medium, ideally, at such a time should be equal to 15 - 16°C. 7 - 8 weeks after stopping watering, the plant awakens and new shoots begin to develop. At this time, you need to start watering, increase the temperature and, of course, maintain the light regime at the required level.

Reproduction of Begonia masoniana

There are several ways to propagate this begonia:

  • Children's department;
  • Tuber division;
  • Leaf cuttings.

When dividing by children, the top of the rhizome (7–8 cm long) is cut off, covered with “Kornevin” and planted in a pot under a film. After the sprouts appear, the film is removed.

When dividing a tuber, it is cut into several parts, each of which must have a bud.

– the leaf plate with the cutting is separated from the bush and placed in a glass of water; when roots appear, it is transplanted into a pot.

Video: decorative deciduous begonia


This plant is called differently: “ deer horns", "Maltese cross", but correctly - Mason's begonia, named after the botanist who discovered this species. This begonia has its own secrets.
Secret 1: proper lighting.

Some people place a pot of this begonia on the desktop, but the beauty begins to act up, and the new leaves grow pale, the bright brown spots become dull. This is a signal: more light is needed. In winter it is worth turning on additional lighting. In summer - place the plant in a bright place, but without direct sun rays.
Secret 2: good soil.
The most important thing is that the soil should be loose. If the soil becomes hard as a stone when it dries, the leaves become smaller and turn pale, and the plant quickly ages. To provide comfortable conditions for development lush bush, mix equal parts of turf meadow soil and pine soil.
Pine needles rot in flower pot about two years, and all this time it gives the soil looseness. When planting, I make sure to place drainage on the bottom of the dish.
Secret 3: periodic rejuvenation.
Once every two years, be sure to divide the bush (with a clean, disinfected instrument) into parts so that each has at least one bud. This procedure allows you to extend the period of rapid growth. You can divide the bush more often.
If the plant shows all the signs of aging: a thick stem has come to the surface, the leaves are small and inconspicuous, you need to cut off a part of the stem with a growing bud and root it in water with the addition of a root former; simply throw away the old part of the stem.
When planting, place the seedling so that there is plenty of space for growth in front of the young leaf, which is easily distinguished from the rest by its red color.
Secret 4: proper watering.
Mason's begonia does not like excess water. The most sensitive part of the plant is the young leaves. If they suddenly rot, you need to sharply reduce watering and increase the drainage holes. The soil should be slightly moist; stagnation of water in the pan is unacceptable.
Once every 10-15 days, it is advisable to feed the flower with complex mineral fertilizer for decorative leaf plants.
Secret 5: reproduction.
The easiest and fastest way to propagate is by dividing the bush: from one large plant you can get 3-4 new ones. A longer method is using leaf cuttings, which easily root in water with the addition of Kornevin.
From one large leaf you can get 10-15 small bushes, but this method takes a lot of time, it can take about six months.
Secret 6: removing flower stalks.
How does Mason's begonia bloom? Unfortunately, it is so arranged in nature that plants with bright leaves have inconspicuous flowers. This species has small greenish flowers collected in a panicle.
It is better to remove the peduncle so that the plant does not waste energy. After abundant flowering it ages sharply and dies. If you really want to let begonias please you with flowering at least once, immediately after the inflorescences dry, you should divide the bush.

The bright green leaves with a dark cross pattern reminiscent of the Crusader banner are easily recognizable. Mason's begonia is a spectacular, and far from banal indoor plant, which, when proper care will delight with its original leaves all year round.

However, it cannot be said that it is one of the most unpretentious indoor plants.. Young leaves grow slowly, the tips of the leaves dry out, and it is not possible to grow new plants from the leaf. Beginners often have difficulties with the growth and propagation of plants, so we will dwell on them.

General information

Mason's begonia flowers in the photo.

According to its needs, it is a typical tropical plant. Low - height 20-30 cm. In spring and summer it can bloom with small flowers that do not have any special decorative value. The leaves are large, expressive, up to 20 cm long, the surface is warty. Like any crop native to the tropics, Mason's begonia needs appropriate conditions: wet air, bright but diffused light.

Rest period

It takes Mason's begonia about 2 weeks, during this period the plant stops growing and some of the leaves dry out. Watering and spraying should be limited, and it is advisable to wrap the plant in a plastic bag.

Basic rules of care

If you know them and learn how to perform them in your own individual microclimate (and in almost every apartment it is individual), the plant will not seem too difficult to care for:

  1. Begonia loves bright light, without direct sunlight. Nice place maybe a closet, bedside table, etc., in front of the south window. An excellent place is the east window.
  2. Receives lighting very gratefully. Grows well under fluorescent lamps.
  3. Water abundantly and frequently, as the top few centimeters dry out (drying times are individual and depend on: soil structure, temperature, air dryness).
  4. Growing temperature - 18-25 °C, does not tolerate drafts. At lower temperatures it dies.
  5. If the begonia has bloomed, the flowers can be removed so that the plant does not waste energy in vain.
  6. Air humidity is important, but the plant does not like drops of water falling on the leaves. Likewise, when watering, make sure that water does not spill onto the leaves. There are two popular methods ensure air humidity without spraying: a purchased air humidifier (remember that for human health, humidity must be maintained at 60%), and trays filled with wet pebbles, expanded clay, and moss.
  7. Takes feeding well. Feed once a month all year round, with the exception of the dormant period. Fertilizer is applied in the morning, after evening watering.

Why is Mason's begonia growing slowly?

The plant is basically no different rapid growth. Among the reasons for the very slow growth of green mass may be: lack of light, moisture, too dry air, lack of nutrition, too dense soil (the substrate should be either purchased or prepared specially: perlite, peat, sphagnum are mixed in equal proportions.

Difficulties in care

If improperly cared for, the plant is easily damaged bacterial diseases, powdery mildew, root or gray rot, whitefly. Due to the structure of the leaves, it is difficult to treat with home remedies. The best way to combat bacterial diseases and rot: remove the affected parts of the plant, treat with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, plant in good soil and change location, carefully monitor humidity, temperature and lighting conditions.

Many people come to the conclusion that they don’t have suitable place for a flower. Approach the issue creatively, perhaps it will feel good on a southern windowsill in the shade of more tall plants, placed in a tray with wet pebbles.


Reproduction

Reproduction begins in the spring. There are two ways:

  1. Tuber division.
  2. Leaves.

Dividing by a tuber is performed as follows:

  1. When transplanting, parts of tubers with buds are isolated. The possible number of new plants is equal to the number of buds.
  2. Cut off the sections with a sharp instrument.
  3. The sections are sprinkled with crushed coal or lightly dried.
  4. The cuttings are planted in a moist substrate.
  5. Each plant is covered with a plastic bag and placed in a warm, well-lit place.
  6. It is enough to inspect the plants once a week; it is usually better not to disturb the plantings.
  7. After a few days, the plants take root well, you can gradually accustom them to fresh air.

Leaf propagation:


You can root leaves in water, but, judging by reviews, this procedure turns out to be more difficult for gardeners.

A common problem is rotting of cuttings. Already on the second day, the cut leaves begin to become covered with spots, and eventually rot before they have time to produce young plants. There is a small nuance: for leaf propagation, you don’t need to put too much soil in the bowl. 1-2 cm of a suitable substrate, pre-sterilized, is enough. The sheet should not be dug in heavily, it should only touch the ground - therefore sawdust is one of the most convenient ways- you can simply put a sheet plate on them. There is no need to leave a long petiole on the leaf, it will only get in the way and contribute to spoilage planting material- it is cut close to the plate. If you are not sure, the cuttings can be inspected daily, allowing access to fresh air and immediately moistening the substrate with a spray bottle - but this is usually not necessary. There is no evidence that Kornevin and other stimulants promote the formation of roots in Mason's begonia, but they can be used.

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