A bathhouse built from timber: how to build it yourself. Step by step instructions. Do-it-yourself log sauna: how to build a good sauna without a single nail Build a log sauna

Those who intend to build a sauna or bathhouse from timber on their own, and even from scratch, need to solve many problems step by step. Select a project and material, study videos and tips on building a log house with my own hands. detailed instructions is also in this article.

Timber for a bath: how to choose

When deciding what to build a bathhouse from, it is no coincidence that many owners give preference to timber. The following characteristics speak in its favor:

ability to retain heat well;
aesthetics;
minimal shrinkage;
environmental friendliness;
ease of installation.

Just like in a log bathhouse, a timber bathhouse smells of wood and resins - like in an old Russian steam room. This has a beneficial effect on the health of those who take bath procedures. At the same time, it is cheaper and faster to build such a structure than its analogue from logs: the log house can be installed directly on the foundation, and finishing can be carried out without waiting for long shrinkage.

Perhaps the most significant disadvantages of timber are only two: a tendency to rot and a high fire hazard.

Advice. The timber can be glued and profiled. The first one is more expensive, but at the same time it is durable and does not deform. Profiled timber is, in fact, a log that has been given a certain shape. The presence of tongues and grooves makes it easier to connect. But shrinkage of such log houses can take quite a long time.

The choice of material is a more than responsible task. It is believed that wood that is cut down between December and March is most suitable for construction. According to all the rules, it is stored on a substrate and dried for about a month under conditions natural ventilation. When buying timber or getting it from your own stocks, pay attention to the following nuances:

The presence of cracks is a serious defect. Even small cracks will expand over time, causing the wood to rot.
Small holes are a sign that bugs have settled in the timber.
Blue spots indicate that the material has begun to rot. Naturally, it is not suitable for construction.

Design and pouring of the foundation

What a bathhouse should be like depends only on the preferences of its owner. convenient if after the steam room you like to have a barbecue in the fresh air. In a bathhouse with an attic, you can equip an additional relaxation room and accommodate guests there. And here glass veranda- this is a great place for summer kitchen or a billiard room.

If you are planning to build two-story building, make a strong strip foundation. Otherwise, you can get by with a simpler columnar one. The tape is laid to a depth of at least 0.5 m.

Technology:

Having dug a ditch, pour sand or gravel onto its bottom (layer thickness - 15 cm).
Make wooden formwork.
Equip the inside with a frame made of reinforcement.
Fill with concrete.

For a columnar foundation:

Dig holes up to 40 cm deep along the perimeter, as well as in the corners of the future bathhouse. The distance between them should be about 1.5 m.
Make a 15 cm sand cushion in each of the ditches.
Install brick posts in the holes. Their height is about 0.5 m.
When laying the foundation, reinforce the pillars for greater strength.

Attention! In any case, do not forget about waterproofing. To do this, apply softened bitumen to the surface of the foundation and cover it with a layer of roofing felt. When everything hardens, repeat the same thing again.

Walling. Connecting timber in corners: methods

For the first row (crown) of the bath experienced craftsmen It is recommended to take a beam with a cross-section of 20 x 20. For all other crowns, material with parameters 15 x 15 is suitable. The main thing is that the length of all copies is the same. The construction of walls consists of the following stages:

Lay slats on the foundation at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. This is additional insulation for the timber. The slats should have a thickness of no more than 0.15 cm and be treated with an antiseptic.
The location of the first row of beams. They should first be treated with a special antiseptic solution or ordinary machine oil. Before connecting, make sure that the surface is strictly horizontal. Use a level for this.
3. Fastening the beams of the first row and filling the space between the slats polyurethane foam.

Advice. For the first crown (row of the log house), take larch or oak timber. These breeds tolerate moisture well.

Laying an insulating layer, for example, made of tow or moss, on top of the first crown. This is true for all subsequent rows of beams.
Location and fastening of the second crown. Wooden dowels or metal pins should be used for connections. Holes must be drilled for them in advance. If you take nails, it’s better to use those that can be “drowned” into the wood, because the heads on the surface rust and cause the timber to rot.
Laying the remaining rows. There is no need to fit them closely. It is better not to connect the last two crowns, because you will have to remove them during installation of the roof.

The bars can be connected to each other longitudinally, as well as at the corners. The first option is used when the specimens are too short in order to lay them out the entire length of the wall (for example, a 4-meter beam is used for a 6 x 6 bathhouse). In other cases, you can resort to a corner connection. It happens with a residue, when protruding parts of the beam remain in the corners, and without it.

The first method is considered more reliable and much more attractive from a design point of view. It has 3 mounting options:

1-sided;
2-sided;
4-sided.

The number indicates the number of grooves that are cut in the timber. The optimal connection is obtained as a result of 4-way coupling, although this work is the most labor-intensive. Fastening without residue, which is done end-to-end, on dowels or on spikes, is considered less reliable for a bathhouse, so it is better not to use it.

How to make windows and doors in a bathhouse. Roof construction

When laying the beams, you can make a small gap in the rows - where windows and doors are planned. After the log house is ready and time will pass for shrinkage, you should cut out the openings using a chainsaw. But there is another option: to make windows and doors at once, during the construction process. To do this, you will need special grooves and specimens of beams with an end notch. The second method requires more time, and as a result of shrinkage, finished windows and doors may become deformed.

The roof on the bathhouse can be pitched - quickly and inexpensively. It is mounted from transverse logs, which are assembled at an angle. In this case, precipitation will not linger on the roof. Gable roof – a good option, if you need to arrange an attic or recreation room underneath it. It is more convenient to install the rafters and sheathing on the ground, and then place the finished structure on the log house. It can be covered with metal tiles, roofing felt or ondulin.

Advice. Different roofing materials are optimal for different pitch angles. For example, 5° is suitable for roofing felt, and 30° for ondulin. Take this feature into account when choosing a coating.

Do-it-yourself sauna made of timber: video

Construction of a bathhouse from timber: photo

Most people during construction give preference to natural materials, namely the tree. Timber has always been in great demand among bathhouse connoisseurs; it is safe for health, practical to assemble and elegant. This article will help you understand the features of constructing a building from profiled timber with your own hands, and will also tell you about some options for constructing this structure.

How to choose the right timber

Before purchasing wood for construction, you need to know certain features that you should pay attention to before purchasing the material.

You need to carefully inspect the tree. There should be no cracks on it; the timber can quickly deteriorate.
There is no need to purchase material with dark spots. Stains often indicate the process of decay.
You should refuse logs with traces of bark beetles or the presence of wormholes.
The low cost of the material may indicate its low quality.

High-quality material will allow you to build beautiful building and do it in a short time. When building, everything must be done in stages, without rushing, so that the result meets all expectations.

How to prepare timber yourself

Wood is a natural and expensive material; the price in Russia for timber measuring 150/150/6000 ranges from 7,000 to 9,000 rubles. You can prepare a log house yourself, mainly in winter.

After cutting, the tree should rest for some time, one month is enough. After which you need to carefully inspect the trunks and select high-quality ones, without black spots (rot), or traces of bark beetle.

Then we start cleaning the beams. The first step is to remove the bark, but not all of it. Leave about 15 cm of bark on both sides, this is necessary to prevent cracking. The workpieces must be stacked on a hill so that the logs do not come into contact with the ground, at a distance of at least 5 cm from each other.

Before choosing a material, you need to pay attention to both deciduous trees and conifers. Logs from deciduous trees It is better to lay them on the lower rows when building a bathhouse, and coniferous ones above them - they have better thermal insulation.

A detailed report on the construction of a log bathhouse with your own hands. It's simple.

How to draw up a project for a future bathhouse

The technology for building a bathhouse should begin with drawing up a project. The project will allow you to calculate down to the smallest detail the characteristic nuances of a given room.

Bathhouse project example

An accurate plan allows you to save money; thanks to the documentation, the owner will be able to accurately calculate the amount of all materials that he may need for construction.

The title photo shows a small typical bathhouse made of timber with an area of 6*4 sq. meters (turnkey price - 520 thousand rubles, log house - 300 thousand rubles)

When drawing up a project, consider the main nuances:

The number of people who will be in the steam room at the same time must be at least 4 m 2 per person;
The location of the structure plays an important role; if there is a lake or river nearby, then it is better to design a bathhouse near a reservoir;
What materials, in addition to the timber itself, will you use for construction. They should be harmless (natural) to the body: stones for the steam room, moss, hemp for caulking logs.

Construction of the foundation

The foundation must have good resistance to various weather conditions(frost, snow, rain) and be durable. You can build the foundation on your own, without the help of professional builders.

The first step is to decide on the foundation material, the choice of which takes into account:

Level groundwater Location on;
Type of soil;
If possible, it is necessary to calculate as accurately as possible the load that will affect the foundation. This includes the weight of the building itself, equipment inside the structure, total weight people who may be in the steam room at the same time;
It is important to determine the depth of soil freezing in winter time of the year.

When building a bathhouse, several types of foundations are often used:

Tape base;
Pillars;
Pile foundation.

Tape base

This type the foundation is classic version, it is used to build bathhouses and other structures.

Strip foundation It happens:

monolithic;
prefabricated

The first one is a strip of monolith, it is located along the entire base of the perimeter of the future bathhouse with jumpers in the middle that serve as support for load-bearing walls building. The process of this foundation itself involves digging a trench and laying a deck. Before pouring concrete, metal reinforcement must be laid.

A prefabricated strip foundation can be erected if there is an access road near the future bathhouse. Mobiles weigh quite a lot; cranes are used for this.

Foundation pillars

This foundation is often used in flooded areas in order to save money - since it does not require the use large quantity materials.

To build a foundation with pillars, it is necessary to dig at least 6 identical holes around the perimeter of the future structure. After it is poured concrete mortar mainly with admixtures of stone, thereby erecting pillars. The distance between supports must be at least 1.5 meters.

A columnar foundation distributes the weight of a structure evenly and can support a building with several floors. Foundation pillars prevent water from entering during flooding.

Pile foundation

Piles are often used in areas with a sloping slope.

If there is no time and opportunity to correct the slope on the site, then they come to help screw piles. They can be installed easily by several men in just 3 days.

A screw pile is similar in appearance to a rod, it is hollow and is made of durable metal. Upper layer The rod is coated with a special anti-corrosion agent so that when screwed in (when scratches form), corrosion does not occur.

Laying the first crowns

After the foundation has been erected and completely dried, you can begin laying the first crowns; it’s not difficult, the main thing is to use a building level.

The first thing you need to do is check the first log for evenness; for this you need to use a level (not by eye, as many do). A perfectly even beam at the base is the key to the successful construction of the entire structure.

The first crown should be much thicker than all subsequent ones; all subsequent ones will be supported on it. Experienced builders claim that the first crown should have sections of 20/20 cm, and all the rest will be laid above it, with sections of 15/15 cm, no less.

The first crowns must be laid not on the foundation itself, but on pre-fixed wooden beams, 1.5 cm wide. This will prevent the occurrence of dampness and rotting and increase the service life of its use.

Before you fold the tree, you should know that you cannot do it tightly; over time, it will shrink and swell a little. There is no need to secure the lower beam - the pressure of all the higher rows provides it with good fixation. If lower frame the baths will need to be replaced, then dismantling the entire structure is not required, but only the bottom row needs to be removed.

This video will tell you more about the features of wall construction wooden bath.

Walling

If the walls have not been pre-treated, then it is worth doing; for this, the wood is coated with a special protective agent, prevents fire and protects against harmful insects. When choosing logs, you should give preference to logs without knots, as this may require additional processing of the material.

Before assembling the walls, everyone should know that this can be done in two ways:

With remainder;
Without a trace.

Laying beams with a remainder involves protruding the ends of the logs beyond the horizontal surface. Without leaving any residue, the logs lie close together without protruding ends. Let's look at each one step by step.

A bathhouse without the remains of protruding logs requires less expense than with the remainder; the second one requires logs more than half a meter long than in the masonry of the first method.

In construction practice, there are several ways to connect a log frame with the rest:

Oblo;
Okhlop;
Ohryap.

First option involves cutting out a round bowl of the top log, after which the next transverse log is placed into it.

Second option similar to the first one, only the bowl is carved on the bottom of the log.

Third way has significant differences from the previous two. In this case, rectangular grooves are made on both sides for about a quarter of the length.

It is necessary to lay insulation on the first row; moss or tow is often used. After laying the second row, secure it; it can be done in two ways, using metal pins or wooden dowels.

Having laid all the crowns, you should know that the last few are not fixed, as they will eventually become stacked. Ceiling beams are laid on top.

Caulking cracks

The construction of a bathhouse involves caulking the cracks. Experts say that this is not necessary, since wooden structures, especially bathhouses, swell, smoothing out the cracks. If you don’t caulk the walls, then if you don’t use the steam room for a long time, the logs in it dry out, thereby shrinking, so you still need to caulk the cracks.

The material for caulking cracks must have the following qualities:

Good moisture absorption;
Retain heat and allow air to pass through;
It should not harbor mold or insects;
The material must be able to withstand temperature fluctuations well;
It must be environmentally friendly.

Very often, materials such as flax tow, swamp moss, tow, sphagnum or hemp are used to caulk cracks in timber structures. All these materials absorb moisture well and protect the building from heat loss.

Roof

The roof for the steam room can be single-pitched or gable. For a bathhouse made of 6x6 timber, they are often used gable roof, it is perfectly suited to the weather conditions of our country (you can place an attic or attic under it).

For a small steam room made of 6x3 timber you can use pitched roof, before installing it, you need to think about insulation in advance. Insulation can be done in two ways, namely using mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Mineral wool is much more expensive and more difficult to install. Polystyrene foam is much cheaper and its installation will take much less time.

Installation of doors and windows

Installation of doors and window frames can be done in parallel with the construction of walls or after. When building, do not forget that the bathhouse will settle over time, so installing windows in parallel with construction can be very risky.

When the building is ready, you can begin installing window frames. If the spaces previously left for windows turned out to be smaller than the frame itself, then they can be cut through with a chainsaw.

Windows for the steam room use plastic or wooden frames. As for the door, preference should be given to wood and when installing it should be remembered that even the treated surface of wood swells when there is high moisture, and shrinks when there is insufficient moisture.

There must be a small threshold under a wooden door, which will prevent heat loss. The handle on the door on the steam room side should be made of wood; metal can cause burns.

Construction of timber structures by professionals construction company. What is better to do yourself or hire professionals?

Natural shrinkage, interior work

The finishing of the timber bathhouse inside should be done as soon as the structure is settled. After laying the upper side beams, the structure should be covered with slate and left for at least six months without use, preferably in winter.

After six months, the covering is removed, then covered with a permanent roof, windows and doors are installed and interior work is carried out.

If you do not have experience in construction, then in this case preference should be given to small bathhouses, measuring 3.5/3.5 meters; it can accommodate a family of 3-4 people, and its equipment may consist of a dressing room, washing and of course a steam room.

If your private plot small, then in this case the bathhouse can be combined with a utility room; very often a steam room is attached to a summer kitchen.

It is better to locate such a structure in the depths of the site, so that the neighbors do not interfere with your relaxation.

It is better for an inexperienced builder to give preference to a strip foundation, if the soil allows it.

The walls, both inside and outside, do not require special coating; in extreme cases, this can be done with varnish or an antiseptic

Many people think that a bath is an expensive pleasure, and besides, double timber, that is, natural expensive material. Not everyone thinks that you can make the blanks yourself on your own, and then build the steam room itself, thereby getting a full-fledged Russian bathhouse made from natural timber cheaply, which will delight you for many years.

Having your own bathhouse in a suburban area is always pleasant and convenient. When planning its construction, you need to decide on the materials that will be used.

This article will discuss a bathhouse made of timber: the features of its construction, types of projects and recommendations for construction.

Advantages and disadvantages

Separately standing bathhouse on a suburban site, you can build from several materials: bricks, foam blocks, planed logs, solid or laminated veneer lumber. Block or brick building It will be more difficult and expensive to build; it will not have all the charms, health benefits and cozy appearance of a wooden bathhouse. In addition, smudges and condensation will accumulate on the stone surface, while wood absorbs moisture.

In addition, baths made from various types of timber have other advantages:

like anyone else wood material, natural timber, environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful substances when heated, and often retains a pleasant and healthy smell of wood;
baths are obtained with high thermal insulation;
the most suitable microclimate for such structures is maintained inside;
the building looks great both outside and inside, so it does not require decorative finishing;
With proper design and construction, such baths can last a long time.

Separately, it is worth highlighting the advantages associated with the construction of bathhouses from timber:

parts are laid easier than a log, especially if the beam is profiled;
the lightness of the material does not require the installation of a massive strip foundation;
The construction process is speeded up due to the fact that the beams have low shrinkage.

In terms of cost, this is one of the most profitable options for building your own bathhouse.

Reviews from the owners of such baths also point out some of their disadvantages:

like any other wood material, solid or laminated timber is a flammable material: given that there is a stove with an open fire inside, the building will be a fire hazard;
due to constant temperature changes, cracks form in the wood over time;
A humid environment is constantly maintained in the bathhouse, and this is the cause of the formation of mold, fungi and rotting.

All of these disadvantages can be effectively solved: for fire safety, treat the wood with a fire retardant; to prevent cracks, carry out regular maintenance timber, and to prevent the formation of mold and fungi, cover it with an antiseptic and lay a reliable drainage system that will remove excess water.

In addition, bathhouses made of rounded timber or decorated with natural logs look like real village buildings.

The result is: a well-designed and built sauna made of timber has virtually no disadvantages, but it has a lot of advantages, especially since it is a completely affordable option for a family with an average income.

If you decide to build such a steam room, then first of all you need to decide on the choice of materials.

Types of materials

A bathhouse made from untreated logs, with all its advantages, has one significant drawback: round timber is deformed under the influence of moisture and temperature, therefore the entire structure will not be stable. U timber wall, especially if the profiled option is chosen, such a defect is not observed.

There are several types of timber for the construction of baths:

One-piece non-profiled th timber is the cheapest material. This is ordinary treated wood, rectangular or square in profile. After some time in humid environment Fungus appears on such material and shrinkage occurs.

Planed timber is a type of solid non-profiled, only its surface is well processed: after grinding it dries for about a year. Before building a bathhouse made of dry planed timber, it must be caulked using breathable paints. In terms of price, it is inferior to profiled and glued types, but it is difficult to avoid a smooth surface without cracks during further shrinkage.

Constructions from profiled timber more rigid and stable thanks to grooves and recesses that are cut to their full length. It is in these elements that the beams are held together, ensuring maximum strength and the absence of cracks. There can be several grooves and recesses, their shapes also differ.
Baths from laminated veneer lumber have the greatest strength and thermal insulation. This material is obtained by gluing together several lamellas, each of which is pre-polished, dried and treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. It is possible to build walls from double or triple timber, sometimes glued lamellas and more.

Some people are afraid that adhesive composition This type of material contains harmful impurities and does not make the wood environmentally friendly. But in quality parallel bars Usually they use harmless and safe glue.

Frame system made of profiled and calibrated timber the most durable and easiest to build. Thanks to calibration, you can simply adjust the dimensions and create any project. The thickness of calibrated timber for baths can be from 45 to 275 mm. It is possible to construct various building units from it. The cross-section of such material can be rectangular or square; there are more than ten standard sizes.
The baths look great from rounded timber, which is specially processed on machines that give it a round profile reminiscent of natural logs. Moreover, it may have grooves that provide a reliable connection between the elements.

A log wall can be coated with any type of clear exterior varnish and it will truly resemble a log cabin.

Combined timber is a type of laminated veneer lumber, only a heat-insulating material is placed inside between two lamellas, which is why this type is also called thermal lumber. It is very good for frosts, especially in the far north, and contains practically no harmful impurities.

As a heat insulator combined timber Expanded polystyrene is most often used. The disadvantage is the price - it costs 2 - 2.5 times more than the regular glued version.

Now it’s worth considering the types of wood from which such baths can be built.

First, let's describe the properties of deciduous trees:

Aspen- this is a traditional tree from which Russian baths were built for many centuries in a row. It is undemanding to climatic conditions, is used both in the far north and in the southern regions, is relatively easy to process, and is practically not susceptible to cracking. Its wood has a light white tint; the surface of aspen timber is easy to paint and can be treated with varnishes, mastics, and stains. The disadvantages of aspen include rapid darkening and a special specific smell.
Linden has a light shade, a pleasant smell with beneficial properties and a healing effect, therefore it is also preferable when building baths. The beams made from it practically do not shrink and retain heat inside perfectly.

Loose wood is susceptible to rotting. To prevent it, lower crowns baths must be periodically replaced, and the room must be regularly ventilated.

Oak It has excellent durability and exudes a unique, pleasant and healing aroma. In addition, this wood is very dense and durable. Exist different varieties oak, for example, white or Caucasian, having a variety of shades: from light to dark brown. The only drawback of wood is its high cost, so currently oak baths are practically not built.
Larch Almost as durable as oak, its wood has a reddish hue that does not change even after many years, and has a pleasant healing smell. Baths made of this wood are durable and not susceptible to moisture. The disadvantages are difficulty in processing, poor thermal insulation and high cost.

Alder beam has a reddish tint and a special aroma, which will become more intense over time, practically does not emit resin, retains heat well and is not afraid of moisture. The remarkable property of this wood is that it does not overheat, that is, it is impossible to get burned by leaning against the wall in an alder bathhouse. The disadvantages are the high cost and poor ductility, that is, it is difficult to obtain even alder beams.
Birch not as strong and durable as the types of wood described above, but easier to process. The light-colored material is durable, uniform and lightweight. Washing in a birch bath promotes a surge of strength and prevents colds.

The surface of the wood must be treated with an antiseptic, as it is susceptible to rotting and does not tolerate contact with moisture.

Coniferous wood, unlike deciduous wood, is not so protected from moisture, and when heated, it releases resin. But most varieties are cheap, well processed and have a positive effect on the body.

Pine- This is the most affordable material that is very easy to saw, sand and fasten. The wood is not afraid of moisture and high temperatures, and has a pleasant specific smell. To protect against rotting, pine beams must be treated with an antiseptic.
Spruce- this is the second most popular conifer tree which is used in construction. Baths made of spruce timber have good thermal insulation and moisture resistance. This wood also has a relatively low cost and is easy to process. From it you can get smooth beams, which remain like this for a long time.
Cedar It has a beautiful and noble texture, is well processed, and is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes. In addition, it is not afraid of mold, rot, fungi and insects. It contains essential oils that smell pleasant and have a healing effect.

Projects

There are several to consider interesting projects bathhouses made of timber, which have an original layout and are easily erected on a personal plot with your own hands:

Mobile saunas made of timber in their shape, size and design they resemble construction trailers or cabins, which can easily be transported using a medium-sized truck and a truck crane. May have several windows and regular wooden door. It’s quite simple to create transportable bathhouses yourself from profiled timber with insulation. It is optimal to use an electric oven as an oven. Dimensions can be very different: from miniature (100x100 cm) to standard for construction cabins (2x5 m).

Bathhouse 4x3 m may have 2 compartments: a spacious dressing room where you can comfortably undress and place clothes and other accessories, a steam room with sheets and a stove. Such a structure can be easily assembled independently in a few days. For the foundation you can use a simpler one ribbon view: It can handle the load without any problems.

Such stationary baths with a dressing room are well suited for a small family of 3 – 6 people on a personal plot.

Project baths 6x6 with a veranda it is more difficult to install, but it is a truly multifunctional unit in which you can not only wash and steam, but also relax comfortably. Inside a one-story building it is possible to create from 3 to 5 rooms with different purposes. For such a design it is necessary to use a reliable strip foundation.

Small wooden bathhouse with dimensions 3 by 5 m may have three rooms: a relaxation and changing room, a spacious steam room and a sink. Such a project can be implemented independently, using a minimum of tools and materials, as well as your personal skills. Under pitched roof It is possible to organize a place to store brooms and other household utensils.
Two-story bathhouse with attic– this is a truly luxurious project that you can build on your own country plot. Like any one-story types, it will contain all the necessary functional units, namely a dressing room, a steam room, a sink, and will also have recreation areas, a comfortable balcony, a storage room or even a hall. Due to its massiveness, such a building requires the construction of a solid strip foundation.

Bathhouse with swimming pool designing and building is not as difficult as it initially seems. It is enough to build from timber spacious room, dig a recess for the bowl, provide it with waterproofing and lay tiles. But the interior will be simply chic and will make a huge impression on the guests.
Chic project on a strip foundation with a terrace It is possible to build it yourself using available finishing and heat-insulating materials. There may be several rooms inside: a hall, a steam room, a sink, a small pantry and others. An extension in the form of a nice terrace can be equipped with a fence made of wooden slats.

Quantity calculation

Standard calibrated timber is usually sold by the cubic meter. To calculate the required number of cubes for a future bathhouse, you need to draw up drawings with dimensions. Based on them, a calculation of the required materials is made.

When planning purchases, you must also take into account the volume of mortar for pouring the foundation, the amount of insulating and decorative materials, additional elements.

How to build?

To start building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, you need to choose its location, building materials and create a project with drawings. Wood types have already been discussed in detail. As for the location for future construction, it should be relatively flat, without an abundance of groundwater, convenient for supplying water and creating a drainage system. In addition, it is worth considering the direction of the smoke from the sauna pipe: it must be mounted in such a way that the smoke coming out of it does not interfere with either your own or your neighbor’s home.

It is correct to make a drawing or sketch in two projections, indicating the dimensions and locations of the steam room, dressing room and other rooms, door and window openings. This method will help to correctly calculate the amount of materials. Next, you need to prepare and clear the space for the bathhouse itself, storage and processing of materials. After this, installation of the base begins.

The foundation for a bathhouse can be columnar or strip - the choice depends on the weight of the future structure. Often for wooden beams they choose the first option, since it is faster and more economical, but the second method is the most reliable. For a columnar foundation, dig holes for supports 15–20 cm wider than they themselves, gravel or crushed stone is poured into the bottom and a cushion is made of concrete. The pillars themselves are most often made from brickwork or blocks. First, mark the perimeter and install supports in the corners, then install the rest so that the distance between them is no more than 2 m.

The strip foundation is poured under the formwork, in which a frame made of reinforcement is pre-installed. For pouring, it is best to use concrete based on Portland cement with the addition of stones and crushed stone.

The depth of the strip foundation depends on soil freezing rates: for areas with a temperate climate, it can vary from 50 to 70 cm. The thickness of the concrete base must exceed the width of the beam by at least 10 cm. The foundation must protrude 15 cm above ground level.

The pit for the strip foundation is dug manually using shovels. First, you need to mark the perimeter and install beacons on its sides using pegs and fishing line. After the pit is dug, formwork is assembled from boards inside in accordance with the dimensions.

Instead of boards, you can use special formwork plywood with a smooth chipboard surface: it is easier to remove after pouring. All work must be carried out in warm and dry weather.

To prepare the solution, you should choose high-quality varieties of Portland cement, for example, M400. Mixing should be done immediately before pouring using a mixer or portable concrete mixer. When the foundation is completely poured, you need to wait for it to dry, then remove the formwork, and begin laying the crowns of beams only after the base has settled. From above, the foundation is covered with layers of insulation made from rolled roofing felt..

The walls and floor are installed after preparing and sawing the materials. The beams, treated with antiseptics and fire retardants, are sawn to size, and then crowns are laid from them. Do not forget about waterproofing - the first crown must be laid on 2 layers of roofing material. It should be the thickest, because the entire weight of the walls and roof falls on it. The space between the beams is additionally insulated with polyurethane foam or sealant.

The crowns of the bath are fastened together with dowels or metal pins. To do this, the already laid beams are drilled, while fastener The upper beam should completely pass through and be half recessed into the lower one. The distance between fastening points should be no more than 1.5 m. All crowns are mounted in this way, except for the last two: they must be removed to secure the rafter system.

It is optimal to choose a wooden floor for a bath: it is easier to install, retains heat well, and will be more convenient to wash. First, a sheathing is created from beams pre-treated with an antiseptic. Then insulation and waterproofing are placed inside. Planed and polished boards are laid last. The floor in a bathhouse is the part most susceptible to moisture, so it is worth considering that the boards will swell and deform over time.

For a wooden floor, you should choose polished boards 1–2 cm thick, well dried, treated with a moisture protective agent.

They are attached to the sheathing with nails or screws. After installing the flooring, you can make wooden or plastic skirting boards in the corners of the room.

Can be used for bath floors and screeds on cement based. Before pouring, the base must be insulated, then the sheathing or guides must be installed, then the solution must be mixed and poured.

Regardless of the choice of material for the floor, you need to install a drain in it and make some slope so that the water drains away.

Window and door openings in the walls can be made before assembling the crowns (immediately on the ground) or after it using a chainsaw. They install a casing made of boards that match the thickness of the beam. A sedimentary gap of about 2–3 cm is left at the top, which is then filled with insulation or polyurethane foam.

After the openings are made, do not rush to install window frames and door frames - you should wait some time for shrinkage.

The roof for a bathhouse made of beams is most often chosen to be gable and symmetrical: it is the easiest to install and can reliably protect against snow cover and storm water. Do it yourself rafter system for the roof will not be difficult due to the small dimensions of such a building. The beams for the roof are also made on the ground, treated with a fire retardant and antiseptic, then dried.

The assembly of the rafter system begins with the installation of the Mauerlat - the perimeter base on which all other elements will rest. A central beam with vertical posts is attached to the Mauerlat, then the cross beams with vertical strings. At the end, it is necessary to fold the inclined rafters, which are connected in the center of the frame by a ridge beam. All elements of the rafter system are attached to nails, metal screws or wood anchors; their size depends on the thickness of the beam.

When wooden frame ready, you need to take care of the insulation and roofing. As its insulation, you can take non-flammable mineral wool, penoplex or expanded polystyrene.

You can cover the top of the roof with various materials: light and durable metal tiles of various colors, moisture-resistant roofing felt, or affordable and easy-to-install ondulin will be successful. The installation of a roof for a wooden bath is completed by the installation of additional elements (ridge strips, cornices, rain drains) and pipe insulation.

To build a bathhouse you can use different kinds building material. The most widespread is construction using the most ancient technology - from wood. You can build a bathhouse from logs, or from timber.

How to build a proper sauna from timber with your own hands

The timber fits perfectly in rows, looks beautiful, practically does not shrink, and holds heat very well. Walls made of timber are easier to build than walls made of logs. They can be installed directly on a finished foundation, unlike logs, which are first adjusted on the ground and then transferred to the foundation and walls are built from them.

This type of construction is the most cost-effective. Almost anyone with experience working with power tools and a little desire can build a sauna from timber with their own hands.

I don’t want to describe the disadvantages or advantages of building from certain materials. Each material has its pros and cons. Let's take a closer look at how to build a bathhouse from timber.

Technology for building a bathhouse from timber. Material selection

To build a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, you will need profiled timber.

When laying the first few crowns (the crown is considered a completed row of timber around the perimeter), it is best to use larch timber, due to the fact that it rots less in a humid environment.

For subsequent crowns, starting from 2-3 you can take conifers wood (cedar, spruce, pine), since they are warmer and have water-repellent properties, due to the presence of resins.

The optimal size of timber for the outer box is considered to be 150x150 mm, and optimal size internal partitions – 150x100 mm.

The old one is still considered the best as an antiseptic. old-fashioned way. According to it, each beam is carefully processed with motor oil, and the very first crown (frame) should be processed from all sides, and all subsequent ones are processed from three internal sides.

Preparing the construction of a bathhouse

According to experts, it is recommended to make the foundation for a bathhouse in the following most common ways:

Strip foundation - concrete is poured around the perimeter of the building to the freezing depth, or to a depth of 55-70 cm, the soil around it is then additionally insulated.
Columnar foundation - pillars are placed in the corners and along the perimeter, at a distance of approximately 1.5-2 m from each other. It is usually made of brick, and a concrete “pillow” is poured under each pillar.

In both cases, the waterproofing between the first crown and the foundation is made of two layers of waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt.

The height of the part of the foundation that protrudes above the blind area should not be less than 150 mm, and the width should be 100 mm greater than the thickness of the beam.

When pouring the foundation, we remember about the “mortgages” made of reinforcement, so that we can then fasten it with the first crown (frame).

Crown seals

Sometimes “dashing craftsmen” advise using polyurethane foam as a sealant. I would like to note, firstly, this will cost a considerable amount of money. Secondly, polyurethane foam quickly turns yellow and is destroyed by external exposure to ultraviolet rays and internal exposure to moisture.
Foam is used following a certain technology when laying slats, but this is time-consuming and cumbersome, so it is safer to purchase conventional seals for the log house.

There is a wide range of different insulation materials for wooden buildings on sale. The easiest way to use is jute ( tape insulation). It is rolled out along the entire length of the beam and fastened with small nails or a construction stapler.

Walls

Let's start assembling the construction set from timber. It is important to remember that when assembling walls from timber, making a tight fit is unacceptable. When the tree dries, it will shrink in thickness, but the length will always remain the same. The space must be loosely filled with insulation.

The number and length of timber for each wall is determined based on the floor plan of the bathhouse, taking into account overlaps at corners and cuts for installation interior walls. We prepare a template along the length from a board or slats using an electric saw; using the template we prepare a beam for 2-3 crowns. We will mark up the template in a way that is convenient and understandable to us.

The beams are fastened to each other according to the following scheme:

we lay a new beam and adjust it in place;
drill holes in increments of 1.25-1.50 m, drilling again laid beam and half the underlying one;
we remove the new beam, and drive it into the hole of the lower one wooden dowel(dowel), the length of which is equal to two heights of the beam;
we lay insulation along the length;
We put the beam in place, check the horizontal position, align the holes and dowels and hammer it into place until it fits tightly.

Door blocks we will place it on a row of strapping, which is located in the washing compartment above the floor level, and window unit at the level we require. We always place the blocks plumb and then fasten them. Above the window boxes and doors you need to leave a gap of about 80 mm for shrinkage, then it needs to be filled with insulation.

Preparing the structure for the shrinkage period is last step in the question of how to build a bathhouse from timber with your own hands. It lasts from 6 months or more. Upon completion of this period, you can begin Finishing work inside the building and arrangement of the bathhouse.

P.S. And for dessert, I suggest watching a video: Construction of a bathhouse from timber

Bathhouse in the country or on the site country house– is no longer a dream, but a necessity. The owners of private housing construction develop a construction project in such a way that it includes all the necessary buildings - a garage, a barn, a bathhouse, a pavilion. Therefore, the construction of a bathhouse from timber has recently been rapidly developing and popularizing. But since the land plots are mostly small, the owners choose smaller bathhouse designs, for example, a 100 x 100 bathhouse (beam cross-section) measuring 3 x 3 m with a ceiling height of 2 m. Even in such a small building both a steam room and a shower room will fit , and a rest room. All operations must be regulated by SNiP 31-02-2001. In larger projects, a bathhouse is built from timber 150 x 150 s additional premises, improving the comfort and functionality of using the building.

Small-sized timber bathhouse - selecting building materials

You will need

Construction materials	Units and quantities	Drawing
Portland cement grade M 400	150-160 kg
Beam with a section of 150 x 150 mm	3.5-4.0 m 3
Edged board 50 x 100 mm	0.3-0.4 m 3
Rail with a cross section of 20 x 50 mm	25-26 linear meters
Lining	0.5-0.6 m 3
Edged board 25 mm	0.3-0.4 m 3
Fireclay bricks	500-550 units
Andulin roofing	10-11 m2
Concrete blocks	30-35 units

It is also necessary to prepare in advance insulation, nails, electrical wiring and its components, self-tapping screws of different lengths and diameters, corners for assembly truss structure, fittings, plastic or wooden windows and entrance as well as internal doors. In addition, if you plan to connect the water supply to the bathhouse, then you need to think about organizing a sewerage system. For ours, water supply and sewerage systems were not developed with our own hands.

Video instruction

How to lay timber and raise the walls of a bathhouse:

Procurement of building materials, cost and estimate:

We build a timber bathhouse ourselves - steps from foundation to roofing works:

Any construction of a bathhouse made of timber can be divided into specific stages:

Pouring the foundation.
Construction of a timber frame.
Installation of rafters and roofing.
Plank flooring.
Installation of windows and doors.
Laying electrical wiring, installing lamps and installing other electrical equipment.
Decorating interior walls, finishing work on external walls.

Stage 1. Pouring the foundation

The best option to build a bathhouse from timber with your own hands is - concrete base.

Tool you will need

Entrenching tool.
Wooden stakes or fittings, cord, tape measure, level.
Building material for formwork assembly.
Reinforcing bars and binding wire for concrete reinforcement.
Factory-mixed concrete or concrete mixer, shovel, container for preparing mortar, cement, crushed stone, water, sand.
Waterproofing materials.

The area should be leveled and the perimeter of the foundation should be marked using pegs and a cord. If we build a bathhouse from timber small sizes, then the foundation will be shallow, and a trench for it can be dug with a shovel. Trench depth – up to 50 cm.

Stage 2. Trimming and walls of the timber bathhouse

Construction Operations	How to do
Foundation marking	We mark the contours of the base according to dimensions 3 x 3 m. For internal partition the foundation is not poured. Pegs are driven into the corners and the cord is pulled.
Reinforcement	The reinforced frame is knitted from rods with a diameter of 12-14 mm; knitting wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm is used to connect the longitudinal and transverse rods. The distance from the frame to any surfaces of the trench is 5-7 cm.
Pouring concrete	On clay soil There is no need to assemble the formwork - you can pour the solution into the trench right away. The solution is given 14 days to harden.
Columnar base for furnace	Economy designs for baths made of profiled timber include a stove that will be built between the steam room and the relaxation room, so that the heat gets into two rooms at once. The base for the stove is buried to the level of soil freezing, the sand cushion under the foundation is 20-30 cm thick. In addition to sand insulation, you can use sheets of foam plastic 2-3 cm thick. The foam prevents the soil from swelling, and the foundation will be stationary.
Base waterproofing	The upper part of the base must be protected from moisture. To do this, the concrete surface is covered with two layers of roofing material or thick polyethylene.

The beams will be connected like this: the ends - half a tree, the corners - a paw.

It is recommended to saturate the first two rows of beams with antiseptics and fire retardants, and then lay them on roofing felt laid in two or three layers. The lower beam must have markings for the windows and doors of a bathhouse that has not yet been built. The corner connections of the timber are additionally fastened, possibly with dowels or corners. When constructing a 3 x 3 m bathhouse, intermediate pins will not be needed.
Next, floor beams are laid for the flooring. The distance between the beams is 1.3-1.5 m.
The gaps between the timber are insulated with tow, flax, jute or more modern thermal insulation materials, for example, tape.
If it becomes necessary to install intermediate dowels, they are attached every 1 m. The dowels can be wooden or metal. At the corners of windows and doors, pins are attached at a distance of 0.2 m from the edge of the opening.
After building the walls, the ceiling is installed. The beams for it are mounted in two rows from the top edge of the wall, the approximate height of the ceiling that a do-it-yourself log bathhouse will have is 2 m. The beams need to be cut into half a tree; for a small bathhouse in our project, two beams for the ceiling will be enough.
The remaining two rows are laid on the ceiling beams wall timber. These two rows should be secured especially firmly, since the last beam will serve as the Mauerlat in the rafter system.
Before arranging the roof, you need to make at least a temporary ceiling - it can be covered with any boards, since upon completion of the roofing work they will be removed and a permanent ceiling will be installed.

The main problem when building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands is to bring the frame of the bathhouse under the roof so that the rest of the work can be carried out not in the rain and wind, but in a protected room.

Stage 3. Roof

Arrangement schemes are available for single- or double-slope roofs. If we build a small-sized bathhouse from timber with our own hands (three by three meters), then a lean-to sloping roof option fits better.

Under a pitched roof, the ceiling is immediately made permanent and insulated with foam plastic. The characteristics of the heat insulator are shown in the table below:

Brand of foam boards	Density,	Compressive strength at 10% deformation, ≥ MPa	Flexural strength, ≥ MPa	Thermal conductivity of dry foam at 25±5 0 С, ≤ W/(m K)	Foam humidity, ≤%,	Burning time, ≤ seconds	Moisture absorption per day, ≤%	Service life, years (minimum – maximum)
PSB – S 15	10-11	0 , 05	0: 07	0,037	1	3	1	20-50
PSB – S 25	15-16	0,1	0,18	0,035	1	3	1	20-50
PSB – S 25 F	16-17	0,12	0 , 2	0,037	1	3	1	20-50
PSB – S 35	25-27	0,16	0 , 25	0,033	1	3	1	20-50
PSB – S 50	35-37	0,16	0 , 3	0,041	1	3	1	20-50

The ceiling is insulated step by step as follows:

Boards up to 20 mm thick are attached to the beams from below.
Foam is attached to the boards.
Boards are also laid on top of the beams.

During construction gable roof you can install a temporary ceiling, and you can insulate the permanent structure later. It is necessary to build walls, build a rafter system and lay the roof before the onset of frost. Over the winter, the building will shrink and the moisture content of the materials will remain at a constant level.

Video instruction

Ceiling insulation with foam plastic:

Stage 4. Flooring

If you are using bathhouse projects made from profiled timber, floor joists do not need to be installed. The beams are laid in 1 m increments and laid on them. edged board 30-40 mm thick. It is recommended to make a slope of 2-3 0 on the floor towards the water drainage. Sewage may not be arranged because:

A shallow foundation will allow runoff to quickly soak into the soil.
A small log house made from timber with your own hands means minimal water consumption.

Video instruction

How to lay boards on the floor of a bathhouse:

Stage 5. Laying electrical wiring

After calculating the total power of all electrical appliances, you need to add a reserve of 2-3 kW.
Electric cables are divided into categories according to the cross-section of the cores. For example, 0.5 mm 2 can withstand ≈ 2.5 kW load. It is better to buy proven licensed products, since a fake can have a wide variation in power and cross-section indicators. For complete peace of mind, it is better to buy a cable with a margin for these parameters, for example, with a cross-section not of 0.75 mm 2, but of 1 mm 2.
It is necessary to arrange general grounding - high humidity and high temperatures pose a danger to the operation of the bath. Grounding is done simply and quickly: you need to drive a steel rod with a diameter of 16-20 mm into the ground, the immersion depth is 1 m. A bolt is welded onto the rod, and a grounding cable is connected to it.
All electrical cables in the bathhouse must be protected by a metal casing - corrugated or solid. The casing will help prevent fire and will also serve as protection against rodents.
Before laying the cable, prepare a small guide for yourself in the form of a diagram or layout of sockets, lighting fixtures, other electrical equipment.
After this, markings are drawn on the walls, holes for fastenings are drilled, and wiring is installed.

Stage 6. More about windows and doors

It is not easy to make doors and windows for a bathhouse yourself - you will need a woodworking machine, experience working on it, and design drawings with exact dimensions. It’s easier to purchase factory-made products, and PVC windows will also be appropriate in a bathhouse. Doors can be wooden, MDF or PVC. Steps for installation of structures:

Both door and window openings are leveled - sawed, planed, etc.
Before installing the products, it is necessary to assemble special wooden boxes for them - you will need boards 5 x 15 cm. The frames are assembled on nails, inserting it into the opening, you need to leave a gap of 30-40 mm at the top - the log house may begin to shrink.
In the openings of doors or windows, wooden frames are also attached to nails or self-tapping screws. The upper gap is insulated with polyurethane foam or traditional thermal insulation materials.

Video instruction

How to install windows in a wooden bathhouse:

Stage 7. Set of frame and fastening of lining strips

Lining is traditionally used to decorate the walls of steam rooms and shower rooms. For the recreation room, it is allowed to work with any building materials - plywood, OSB, fiberboard, chipboard, plastic or MDF. It’s more difficult to work with lining, so let’s look at this step in more detail:

For the supporting frame you will need slats with a cross section of 20 x 50 mm.
First, the outer slats are attached to the wall, a cord is stretched between them, and frame slats are attached along it in increments of 400-500 mm.
The difference in height between the ceiling and the floor surface in the corners of the bathhouse is eliminated. Discrepancies are leveled by adjusting the lining strips from below and above. It is necessary to leave gaps of 10-20 mm between the lining strips and the floor and ceiling. Subsequently, the gaps will be closed by the baseboards. Ceiling plinths should be attached to the lining, and not to the ceiling boards, otherwise, when the bath shrinks, the lining may bend.
To install the strips, nails 150 mm long are suitable; they are driven into the grooves of the strips.

Any building materials are suitable for outdoor decoration. If you are building a cheap and small bathhouse, then it makes no sense to use expensive cladding. Window and door openings and openings internal doors need to be covered with platbands. The availability of cheap and beautiful materials on the market allows you to choose any finish.

Video instruction

Internal thermal insulation of the bath, interior decoration and wall protection: