Construction of houses and baths frame technology is becoming more and more popular. This is because the technique is such that even alone you can build, not only a bathhouse, but even a decent-sized house. Despite the fact that the structure turns out to be warm (with sufficient insulation), it is also light and inexpensive. Perhaps its only drawback is the high fire hazard, but this is the problem of any wooden structure, and not just frame.
Often construction is stalled due to the fact that you do not know how to properly plan a bathhouse to make it convenient and safe. They can help with this finished projects layouts. Ideally, if one of them suits you completely: no need to rack your brains. Although you can make adjustments if necessary. And sometimes just an idea is enough for everything to “fall into place” for you and a plan for your frame bathhouse to emerge, which you will build with your own hands. To do this, we have selected several projects of frame baths of different sizes with different layouts of rooms.
Bathhouse layout 4*5 m
This is a bathhouse with an extensive relaxation room, small bathroom and a steam room of 4.8 m 2. The foundation is a shallow strip foundation - depth 70 cm, plinth height 40 cm (total height of the foundation with plinth 110 cm), gravel bed 20 cm. There is a small porch, which, if used year-round, can be sheathed and turned into a vestibule. Then cold air will not enter the premises every time the doors are opened.
Finished drawing of a frame bath 4*5 m
total area 20 m2, rooms and their dimensions:
- Rest room 8.5 m2;
- Steam room 4.8 m2;
- Bathroom 2.2 m2
Necessary materials to create the frame:
- racks, lower and upper trims are made of 100*50 mm boards;
- floor beams - from boards 150*50 mm with a pitch of 0.58 m;
- rafter system - from 150*50 mm boards with a pitch of 0.58 m.
This bathhouse project has a fairly spacious relaxation room, and with such small dimensions of the building - 5 by 4 meters, there is a fairly spacious steam room - a “pure” size of 4.8 square meters. According to the project, the stove is heated from a steam room, so for this small room problematic: there won’t be very much oxygen anyway. In this option, you can leave it in the same place and install a sauna stove with an extended firebox. In this case, the firewood will be supplied from the rest room, and the heater and the main “body of the stove” will be located in the steam room. With this arrangement of the stove, the problem of heating the rest room is also solved.
Project of a frame bath 6*6 m
The photo shows the layout of a fairly substantial bathhouse measuring 6 by 6 meters. Provided small veranda, dressing room, full set of necessary premises.
This option is good because standard length lumber can be used in almost any room: 6 or 3 meters. This is convenient as there is little waste left. The foundation can be piled or columnar. A shallow tape or slab will do.
But there are some notes on the layout. The washing room for this frame bath project is spacious. This is an option for those who prefer to relax after the steam room not in a cool (relative to the steam room, of course) relaxation room, but continue to relax in a damp and warm atmosphere washing Then it maintains a temperature of about 30-35°C and quite high humidity (due to the increased power of the oven and open door to the steam room). They also install sun loungers, similar to shelves in a steam room. Then a large sink is justified.
Needed big sizes washing room if you plan to use it. If there is only a shower and a few small benches, then you can either fence off the locker room or increase the size of the steam room.
Bathhouse plan after changes - with a dedicated vestibule The second point concerns the entrance. If you plan to come to the bathhouse in winter, it should have a fenced-off entrance - not directly into the rest room. And this option is easy to implement. All you need to do is change the windows and doors and install a partition.
About where and how best to place it.
Total area 36 m2. Premises and their sizes:
- veranda 4.5 m2;
- recreation room 13.5 m2;
- sink 9 m2;
- steam room 9 m2.
Frame bathhouse 6*3 m with terrace
This option was developed by the Karkas construction company. The bathhouse itself has small sizes- 6 by 3 meters. But an extensive terrace is attached to the front part, measuring slightly less sauna: 2 by 6 meters. The premises in this bathhouse project are very small; the steam room can accommodate no more than three people sitting, and if one person is lying down, then only two. Moreover, the “lying” shelf can only be located opposite the door and its size will be small - it will no longer be possible for a tall person to lie down (2 meters, minus the thickness of the cladding on both sides is at least 15 cm, the total length of the shelf will be 1.7 m).
In this version of the bathhouse layout, the stove can only be placed in the corner at the entrance to the steam room. It will be heated from the rest room, but you will need to choose some kind of high and narrow model— there is very little space available for its installation. You can try to fit the stoves, there is more small ovens, if you need a reliable, inexpensive stove for a brick screen, you can try to fit . There are other small ovens and quite a few. We need to decide on maximum dimensions, which will “fit” into the allocated space or move the door a little. In general, in an amicable way, it would be nice to move the wall at least half a meter. By increasing the size of the functional rooms, because in the summer, most likely, the recreation room will smoothly move to the veranda.
And one more nuance: if you plan to use the bathhouse in winter, then you need a vestibule or dressing room. In this option, you can move the entrance to the veranda and fence off part of the area by making the entrance to the room through the vestibule.
Project of a frame bath with a terrace. The good thing is that you can easily do it yourself Total area 18 m2. Premises and their sizes:
- recreation room 11.07 m2;
- sink 1.61 m2;
- steam room 3.48 m2;
- terrace 11.21 m2.
Materials of key components:
Bathhouse 4*4 m with terrace
The bathhouse itself measures 4 by 4 meters. There is a terrace of 4*1.5 meters attached to it. This bathhouse layout is different in that the steam room and washing room are the same size. Two, maximum, three people will feel comfortable in the steam room at the same time. If you are planning a dry-air sauna, this layout is suitable without question.
For a Russian steam bath, the option is not the best: at least one person is lying here, and for comfortable steaming in a Russian bath, the shelves must have a size of at least 2.1 * 0.7 m (or better, 2.2 * 0.8 m). In the washing room, if you are not going to put sun loungers there for relaxation after the steam room, usually they only wash. It is better to reduce its size a little by expanding the steam room. Then at least one full-fledged shelf can be included. Although the stove will still be tedious and small: firstly, the volume of the steam room is small, and secondly, there is not much space.
The dimensions of the premises in the basic bathhouse design are as follows:
- total area 16 m2;
- recreation room 8 m2;
- sink 4 m2;
- steam room 4 m 2;
- terrace 6 m2.
Materials of key components:
- sauna piping made of timber 100*150 mm;
- floor joists 150*100 mm in increments of 90 cm;
- ceiling - 150*40 mm every 60-70cm;
- rafter legs edged board 100*50 mm;
- roofing material - metal tiles, corrugated sheets, ondulin.
Frame bathhouse 5.4*6.3 m
In this frame bath project, the steam room has an area of 5 square meters. A terrace measuring 2*5.4 meters has also been added.
Total area 22.2 m2. Premises and their sizes:
- recreation room 11.3 m2;
- sink 5.9 m2;
- steam room 5 m2;
- terrace 10.8 m2.
Advantages of frame buildings
The frame building is a skeleton made of timber, sheathed on both sides finishing materials. A vapor barrier and insulation are laid between them. It immediately becomes clear that, if necessary, construction can be low-budget. After all, it is possible to use inexpensive thermal insulation materials(straw, sawdust, etc.) which, despite their availability, retain heat well.
It is clear that the weight of the walls with this technology is very small. And this leads to the fact that the foundation can be made lighter. When building baths, they are most often made using piles and grillages. But also suitable monolithic slab or a block foundation.
A lightweight foundation means lower costs for materials and construction, because the foundation sometimes costs half the cost of the entire construction. And in this option the costs will be relatively small.
For construction frame house no complex technology required. All you need is a saw, a hammer, a screwdriver, and to check the verticality of the walls. If there is another technique, use it for your health, but this is the minimum you can get by with.
An important advantage is that you can work alone, only occasionally inviting assistants for some operations. A striking example is presented in the video: the woman herself, with her clearly unathletic hands, has almost completed the construction of a small two-story house using frame technology.
Flaws
The increased fire hazard of frame buildings has already been written about. And this is the main disadvantage of houses built using this technology. Therefore, it is advisable to treat all materials with fire retardants (agents that reduce the flammability of materials).
The flammability of walls leads to the fact that all electrical wiring must be laid in metal boxes or special non-flammable corrugated sleeves. For this reason electric installation work become more complex and more expensive - the cost of casings and corrugated hoses is added.
A frame bath has additional disadvantages: high humidity makes his own adjustments. We'll have to pay attention increased attention vapor barrier of walls. When using mineral wool, you will need to protect the insulation from moisture very carefully: when wet, it loses its properties. Moreover, when dried, it restores them only partially. If it freezes wet, it simply crumbles. Therefore, we choose a high-quality and reliable vapor barrier (not “hydro”, but “steam”). When laying, we follow the technology down to the smallest detail (overlaps, gluing joints and fastening points, etc.).
Necessary materials
The basis of a frame house is frames assembled from wooden beam. Depending on the planned size of the bathhouse, timber 100*150 or 150*150 mm is used for their assembly. For jibs and crossbars that are nailed between vertical posts, thinner bars are suitable.
When installing a roof for the Mauerlat, you will need approximately the same timber - 150 * 150 mm or so. For rafter legs all the same bars 100*150 or 150*150 mm. Depends on the configuration of the selected roof and weight roofing material. By the way, very heavy roofing material - like ceramic tiles- it is not advisable to use it for frames - the load on the walls is too great.
You will also need slats to create lathing, counter laths, and all sorts of auxiliary work. Moreover, you will need a lot of them: lathing is needed both on the walls on both sides and on the roof. Although, in some versions, the outside of the boards is covered with plywood (as in the video above). There are a lot of construction options, as well as the materials used.
You will also need subfloor material. What will it be - unedged or edged board, plywood or other slab material- you decide. But all the wood will need to be treated. And fire retardants - to reduce flammability, and protective antibacterial compounds. About,
Frame cladding materials inside and outside are selected based on personal preferences or the purpose of the building. If we talk about frame baths, then usually everything inside is lined with clapboard (tiles are placed in the washing room), and outside with imitation timber or a blockhouse.
It is advisable to use it as insulation for a bath mineral wool: They don't burn. The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the region. For middle zone In Russia it is mainly used for baths basalt wool, in a layer of 15-25 cm. If you are concerned about the possibility of formaldehyde release (a lot has been written about this), then you can take non-woven mats. The emissions in them harmful substances minimal.
Frame baths are often insulated with mineral wool - It cannot be used in a steam room - the temperature conditions do not allow it;
- it melts and supports combustion;
- This insulation costs a lot ( we're talking about about extruded polystyrene foam).
You will also need a lot of nails and screws. For the construction of bathhouses, it is advisable to use galvanized ones: so that they do not rust and do not leave unsightly streaks on the wood. They will be needed different sizes and diameters - large frames for assembly, smaller frames for sheathing and cladding.
From all that has been said above, we hope you have concluded that you can build a frame bathhouse with your own hands. To make sure of this, watch the video. The house was built using frame technology with the participation of only one person. It describes in more detail the technology for constructing some units.
If you have selected a frame bath project and decided to build it yourself, but have no idea how to proceed, we recommend watching the video. In it, experienced American carpenter Larry Hohn explains and shows the technology for constructing the walls of a frame house. The video is very detailed and takes more than an hour, but by the end of viewing the technology of frame construction will be clear to you.
We use timber for the frame, so our baths are endowed with many advantages wooden buildings. They are environmentally friendly and look great, and the resin coniferous tree improves the health of the air and prevents colds. Modern technology provides other benefits.
What are the benefits of frame baths?
- Construction speed. The construction of any bathhouse will take no more than a month. The time for arranging the foundation will also be short, because the structure is very light.
- All-season. If you have found a suitable frame bath project, we will build it for you at any time of the year. And you will be able to use it immediately, because the materials are not subject to shrinkage.
- Low thermal conductivity. Multilayer walls retain heat well. The sauna warms up quickly even in cold weather. To have a good steam, you don’t have to waste a lot of firewood.
- Economical. Frame construction available to families with average income. The cost is much lower than for logs, bricks and other traditional materials.
- Diversity. We offer bathhouses of various sizes and configurations, including projects with a veranda, porch, vestibule, separate bathroom, second floor, etc. Development is possible individual project especially for you.
Where to order?
The construction company "Pomestie" has been building houses and bathhouses using frame technology for more than 10 years. We use wood coniferous species, processed at own production. This gives us the opportunity to offer the best price and complete the work on time. The result is many satisfied customers, whose reviews you will find on our website.
By contacting us, you can be sure that the construction will delight you for decades and will not create unnecessary hassle. We provide a full range of services from design and calculations. All you have to do is accept the quality work done and enjoy your new building!
Important clarification! The project was not made for publication, this page was created only so that records and calculations are always at hand.
I looked at the site statistics, people visit the page, and what was a surprise to me, they download...
For this reason, I have to warn you.
I am not a builder, I made calculations on the load-bearing capacity of rafters and floors based on available information on the Internet. So, if you suddenly decide to build according to this project, then it is at your own peril and risk.
It's better to contact a small construction company, they will build it quickly and inexpensively, From the recommendations - es-spb.rf.
Well, basically, a bath box, (on this moment temporary huts), standing, overwintered normally. As the work progressed, minor changes were made to the project, because... I didn’t plan to keep any reports, and I finished construction last year, I only remember replacing the window with a larger one, and using other steam and windproof films.
The estimate, of course, has increased, but not significantly.
Stove - "Baby" Steam with a closed heater from the Feringer plant. Steam room with a volume of 10.7 cubic meters.
Washing compartment with an area of 6.75 sq.m. Two thirds of which are allocated for “wet” procedures.
At first, it will be used as a temporary shelter. Therefore, construction will be in two stages.
1. Frame with insulation and external finishing. Possibly a wall between the steam room and the washing room. The shower can be done right away, all the interior decoration is made of hardboard.
"Steam room" - a bedroom, you can put a simple stove, for example, like this
If you don’t have a shower, you can organize a storage room there. Lay linoleum on the floor of the entire room.
2. After the construction of the house, they install internal partitions, the steam room is finished with imitation timber, the washing compartment is finished with clapboard and plastic panels. There is porcelain tile on the floor, lining and linoleum in the vestibule.
For now, the water supply is planned to be autonomous, i.e. in the attic, there will be tanks for cold water and heated shower. They will be drawn up with a hose from a pump in the well.
The first stage is temporary
Second stage - bath
Columnar foundation
We mark and dig holes 0.6 by 0.6 and approximately 0.4 m deep (maybe 0.5 m each). Level the site with a slight slope towards the ditch
We lay geotextiles in the holes, fill them with ASG, and spill them with a tamper. We bring it to the level.
We lay drainage. The pipe can only be laid around the perimeter, the middle can be made with old skirting boards (do not throw it away)
We assemble the formwork from chipboard, which is in the barn; if there is not enough, I dismantle the shelves. In the first formwork, we cut out boxes from roofing felt. First, we make the lower platform by cementing reinforcement in it. No earlier than two days later, we make the formwork for the upper part and fill in the rest according to the level. At least in the corner posts, remove the pins to fix the bottom trim.
We cover it with film between the cabinets, sprinkle it with sand or ASG.
We wait at least two weeks.
General form
Dimensions
Armature
Knitting pattern. For one cabinet - 6 pcs. 300 mm each. and 3 pcs. 200 mm each.
Drainage and drainage
Approximate location
Materials
Bottom harness
Treat the boards for the bottom trim with an antiseptic and leave to dry for a week. Antiseptic, you can try to make it yourself.
Then we assemble the harness, starting from the outer contour. The internal part with the central beam is assembled as follows:
- We cut two 1340 boards and nail them on one side (bottom in the diagram).
- We nail a 5840 board to their end, then nail a second 5840 to this board.
- And only after that we attach the remaining 1340
Afterwards, we stretch the strapping with wood grouse, at intervals of approximately 300 mm.
ADDITIONS
We nail a mouse net onto the harness to hold the floor insulation. To make it more convenient to work later, you will have to lay the floor on the “platform”, at least temporarily.
General form
Bottom trim drawing
Bottom trim materials
Platform
We also treat these boards with an antiseptic.
The connections on which the beams will be supported are marked in blue.
ADDITIONS
I don’t do nonsense, I don’t make blue inserts. I’ll install solid wall studs right away (don’t forget to count them)
General view of the platform
Platform drawing
Sawing
Walls
The frame under the window is currently as shown in the diagram, since the window will probably be wider, you will have to move the racks apart, place the upper crossbar and support posts under the frame, cutting the lower crossbar into them.
ADDITIONS
Racks (2 pcs.) of the shower wall and steam room (to support the ridge beam) will have a length of 3080 mm. (not 3000 mm as in the diagram) and rely on bottom trim. Although the size may vary, it is therefore better to first install the ridge beam, and then adjust the height of the posts.
And in the wall rack of the steam room, you will have to cut a groove for the joist
Don't forget to redraw
First wall
General view of the western wall
Dimensions of the eastern wall
General view of the wall
Side wall dimensions
General view of the walls
Shower wall size
General form
Lathing for cross insulation
General view (without shower wall)
Sawing on four walls
Rafter system
The length of the rafter extension under the canopy above front door, most likely you will have to adjust it if the roof is made of metal tiles and not corrugated sheets. (length of lumber allows increasing by 300 mm.)
As an option, do not touch the rafters of the canopy, but lengthen the short rafters (7 pieces), by about 3 cm, or by this distance, remove the first board of the sheathing (but then there will be problems with installing the eaves strip)
In short, you need to look locally, everything will depend on the pitch of the wave.
The overhangs (or rather, their power elements) at the ends in the drawing are rounded to 1 m. In practice, they will be shorter. With a useful width of the roofing sheet of 1100 mm. Will perform (from cornice strip) by 300 mm.
Before making these elements, you will need to lay out and measure the roofing material
Rafter dimensions
Rafter sawing
General form
General form
Inserts
Roof
All dimensions (also the cross-section of the boards) will need to be recalculated after purchasing the roofing material
Corrugated sheets are simpler and faster, metal tiles are more elegant and beautiful. For metal tiles, you may need to increase the height of the front boards (those that are 100, set them to 150) and use not a 50x50 beam, but something larger.
Lathing and counter lathing
Lathing sawing
General form
Frontal boards and extensions
Sawing
General form
| № | Name | Qty |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Edged board 25x150x6000 mm e/h.xv/p. (grade 1-3 business) | 7 pcs. |
| 2 | 27 pcs. | |
| 3 | Beam 50x50x6000 mm (or one board 100x50) | 2 pcs. |
| 4 | Nails 90 mm. | 30 pcs. |
| 5 | Nails 80 mm. | 330 pcs. |
| 6 | Nails 60 mm. | 350 pcs. |
| 7 | Hydro-vapor barrier Isostrong D (70 sq.m.) | 1 PC. |
| 8 | Titanium white MA-15 | 2 pcs. |
| 9 | Round brush 40 mm | 1 PC. |
| 10 | Metal tile 1.18x2.25 m RAL 3009 | 12 pcs. |
| 11 | Metal tile 1.18x1.15 m RAL 3009 | 2 pcs. |
| 12 | Roofing screws with drill | 250 pcs. |
Siding
To ease your conscience (so that the insulation does not stick out), you can attach plastic tape for greenhouses to the membrane, under the sheathing, in increments of 60 cm.
I will need to put bevels under the visor, size and location, I will look at the place. I will most likely make them from two boards, 100x40 and 100x25
The siding configuration may change, so you can install a j-profile at the door, and make the window with a finishing strip. The number of panels is calculated for the size 3660x230
For cross insulation, you need to install the insulation before installing the siding
Lathing and counter lathing
Lathing sawing
Lathing and counter lathing
Final result
| № | Name | Qty |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Edged board 25x100x6000 mm e/h.hv/p. (1-3 grade business) | 7 pcs. |
| 2 | Wind and moisture protection Isostrong A | 1 PC. |
| 3 | Nails 60 mm. | 400 pcs. |
| 4 | Greenhouse tape (50 m.) | 2 pcs. |
| 5 | Siding Vinyl-On 3660x230 mm, vanilla | 60 pcs. |
| 6 | Siding Vinyl-On initial profile (starting strip) | 4 things. |
| 7 | Siding Vinyl-On J-profile | 2 pcs. |
| 8 | Siding Vinyl-On H-profile connecting | 1 PC. |
| 9 | Siding Vinyl-On external corner | 4 things. |
| 10 | Siding Vinyl-On window profile | 3 pcs. |
| 10 | Self-tapping screws "bugs" 16x4.2 mm | 400 pcs. |
| 11 | 2 pcs. |
Floor
If the weather is rainy, it is better to let the entire structure stand for a month before continuing work.
Well, then, we lay down a windbreak, or just spanbox, and lay out the insulation in a running pattern. The film is only to prevent the insulation from blowing out.
We nail the board taking into account the joints of the OSB
Floor
General form
OSB
General form
Insulation, installation of partitions
First of all, we install insulation in those places where there will be inserts for fastening interior walls. We fasten the inserts and install the remaining insulation.
Well, only after this, we insulate the ceiling, para-insulate it, and cover it with hardboard. We cover the top of the insulation with a wind barrier.
Insulation calculation
Wall insulation area: 40.2 m2 ceiling: 16.79 m2 (18 completely)Walls 2 layers of 50 mm each. Ceiling - 3 x 50. Pack of insulation - 5.76 sq.m.
Total: Walls - 80.4 m2 (14 packs). Ceiling - 50.37m2 (9 packs)
This should be enough, and 1.74 m2 should be left from cross insulation.
Partitions
Wall near the stove
shower wall
Fibreboard layout
| № | Name | Qty |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Edged board 25x100x6000 mm e/h.hv/p. (1-3 grade business) | 16 pcs. |
| 2 | Wind and moisture protection Isostrong A | 1 PC. |
| 3 | Insulation ROCKWOOL Light Butts SCANDIC, 800x600x50 mm (5.76 sq.m) | 23 pcs. |
| 4 | Nails 60 mm | 300 pcs. |
| 5 | Greenhouse film (sleeve-1.5 m) 200 microns | 26 p.m. |
| 6 | Guide profile 50x40 3 m | 2 pcs. |
| 7 | Guide profile 100x40 3 m | 2 pcs. |
| 8 | Rack profile 50x50 3 m | 3 pcs. |
| 9 | Rack profile 100x50 3 m | 3 pcs. |
| 10 | Board 40x100 (3 or 6 m.) | 1 PC. |
| 11 | Plumbing bolts 6x70 | 2 pcs. |
| 12 | M6 washers | 2 pcs. |
| 13 | Screws bugs | 70 pcs. |
| 14 | Nails 80 mm. | 50 pcs. |
| 15 | Nails 50 mm. | 600 pcs. |
| 16 | nails 16 mm. | 700 pcs. |
| 17 | Fiberboard 2745x1220x3.2 mm | 16 pcs. |
Estimate
The features of frame baths are visible both during the construction of the building and during its further operation. For such buildings there is no need to prepare the foundation in a special way, because the frame itself and facing materials made of wood, light enough not to sag even when installed on a fairly loose soil.
Frame baths are very popular due to their economy, compactness and practicality. A small room in a frame bath is usually divided into a compact steam room that can accommodate about four people, a shower room and a relaxation room. It is also necessary to have a small terrace or porch in the project.
Large baths are usually built in a more fundamental way using materials such as brick or timber, but, nevertheless, sometimes even two-story ones are found frame structures. Among the obvious advantages of this type of structure are ease of installation, record speed of assembly, and relatively low cost. building materials and works.
Thanks to all the above factors, Russians order frame bath projects much more often than the construction of brick bath structures.
A feature of the compact 6 by 4 frame bath is unusual shape its terraces and lounges, which visually help expand the space of a small room.
Option 3 by 4 is perfect for relaxation small company.
A classic Russian bathhouse 4 by 5 consists of a bathroom, a steam room and a relaxation room.
Frame bathhouse 5.4x6.3 m
This project is spacious enough for a small group of friends to relax and at the same time so compact as to fit even on a small or almost completely built-up plot of land.
A small terrace gives a special charm to the bathhouse built according to the presented project, making it look like a pretty village house.
In fact, inside the building there is not only a traditional steam room and a relaxation room, but also a separate bathroom and a bedroom, which makes such a bathhouse quite suitable for living.
A small structure like this can be built in just a few days, and will serve you long years.
This project contains all the necessary components for comfortable rest.
Small frame bath with a large porch or small terrace can serve as a real decoration for your yard.
The room consists of a relaxation room, a washroom and a steam room.
The beautifully highlighted foundation and natural wood paint color make this project especially attractive from the outside. Inside the bathhouse there is additionally a small vestibule that protects the room from frost.
The next option is especially notable for its double gabled roof. This structure provides the opportunity to equip a second additional attic floor.
Thanks to the compact size of the sauna, the sauna stove can cope with heating the entire room in any weather.
The height of the attic ceilings is acceptable even for tall man, thanks to the special shape of the roof.
Frame bathhouse 6x8
The advantages of this option are that from the outside the building looks quite nice, and inside the room also has a small attic floor.
The first floor of the room is equipped with a separate vestibule and hall, which provides reliable protection from bad weather.
The attic is quite spacious and roomy.
Russian bath using 6x6 frame technology
6x6 room with steam room and washing room – classic version Russian bath.
The building has everything necessary for a comfortable stay for a small group of people, both indoors and on the spacious porch, which can safely be called a small open terrace.
Large frame bathhouse 78 sq.m.
Feature of this project is the abundance of display windows in the design, which give the room a special elegance.
Inside the building there is a full-fledged swimming pool, sauna and Turkish steam room.
