Foam block baths: projects, drawings, DIY construction. A bathhouse made of foam blocks is planned: pros and cons, is it possible to build it from this building material? Construction of baths from foam blocks by hand

Availability of a bathhouse in the country or in country house- almost required condition. The bathhouse is both comfort and general improvement of the body. In some cases, a bathhouse is the only opportunity to wash properly (for example, at the dacha). And, of course, a bathhouse is an indispensable component countryside holiday with kebabs. In general, you can’t go anywhere without a bathhouse.

However, building a bathhouse can cost a pretty penny. So much so that you don’t want any comfort or even mandatory washing. The solution is to build a bathhouse on your own. For example, it is quite possible to build a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands - such construction will be quite inexpensive, especially since foam blocks are a material that is quite affordable in price and, if handled correctly, the structure will be both high-quality and durable.

Foam blocks have a number of features that must be taken into account when planning to use this material for construction, especially if we are talking about building a room where there will be high humidity - a bathhouse is precisely this kind of room, where not only high humidity, but also temperature.

foam blocks have increased strength (compression resistance ranges from 3.5 MPa to 5 MPa - depending on the brand of foam blocks), so most brands of this material can be used in the construction of two- or even three-story structures;
foam blocks are a very light building material, their density, depending on the brand, ranges from 400-1600 kg/m3, and work with such material can be carried out without the use of special equipment, lifts, etc., even one person can lift and install the blocks, in addition, the lightness of foam blocks allows the use of lightweight foundations during construction and the construction of structures on almost any soil, except, perhaps, swampy soils;
the thermal insulation characteristics of foam blocks are almost the same as those of wood and three times better than those of red brick, which is very important for a structure such as a bathhouse, where it is necessary to maintain the temperature;
foam blocks are a porous material, which ensures their excellent soundproofing characteristics;
foam blocks are moisture and frost resistant, which is very important in cold winters, this construction material does not crack due to frost, and long years retains its performance;
foam blocks can be cut into pieces, grooved, sawed, and so on - they retain their strength.

A bathhouse is a relatively small structure, and foam blocks are a fairly light material, and therefore a bathhouse can be built on almost any soil (if you have a choice, then it is optimal to choose dense soils, but loose soils are also suitable), and an ordinary shallow one is required. The only requirement is for the levelness of the construction site: before starting the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to measure the angle of inclination of the site. But there is no need to level the entire site; the problem can be solved by local changes in the depth of the trench.

Considering that the bathhouse is a building with high humidity, and this humidity spreads around, construction site it is necessary not only to clear away debris, but also from the fertile layer of soil, as well as from grass, leaves, tree branches, and so on - no organic materials should remain, since in conditions high humidity they can rot, which inevitably leads to accelerated destruction of the foundation and even the walls of the building.

The foundation is the key to the strength of the entire building. The material can be as strong as you like, but if the foundation is defective, then nothing will help the structure. The foundation should not crack or warp, because the stability of the walls depends on this.
If the soil on the construction site is dense enough, then to build a bathhouse you can get by with a shallow strip foundation, but if the soil is loose, the foundation will have to be buried deeper, that is, the trench will be deeper.

Typically the trench depth for strip foundation fluctuates in the range of 0.5-1 m with a width of about 0.3 m. When calculating the depth of the foundation, the laying of a sand and gravel cushion and various layers of insulation (for example, hydro- and vapor barrier) should be taken into account. The same applies to the width of the foundation - it depends on the width of the wall material, in this case - foam blocks. The width of the foundation is not equal to the width of the foam block, but should be slightly larger, as laying will be required insulating materials.

An unpleasant surprise for a novice builder may be heaving of the soil at the site chosen for construction, or close proximity groundwater. It is recommended that before starting to build a bathhouse, contact an organization engaged in geodetic and geological surveys to check the depth of groundwater and the ability of the soil to heave. Otherwise, the building may turn out to be extremely fragile and will not withstand even two or three seasons.

You can do without expensive experts - just look at the neighboring buildings, if, of course, they were built quite a long time ago (at least several years), and check with their owners what type of foundation was used during construction. If there are cracks in the foundations, and if the masonry walls warp even a little, then it is better not to save money and to deepen the foundation for the bathhouse more. A heavily buried foundation, of course, will cost more, but the building will be much more reliable and will last much longer.

It is imperative to clarify the level of soil freezing - the foundation must be below the freezing point. In addition, construction in areas with cold climates requires thermal insulation of the foundation - and this must also be taken into account when calculating the size of the trench.

Sewerage for a bathhouse should be provided at the stage of arranging the foundation, that is, at the very first stage, during excavation work. A channel must be created in advance inside the building's contour, having such an inclination so that wastewater can flow by gravity outside the building. If the village has centralized system sewer, then this branch can be connected to it. Otherwise, you need to either do a separate cesspool, intended for Wastewater from the bathhouse, or equip a well, or connect this drain to an existing autonomous sewer system.

The foundation for a bathhouse is created in six stages, each of which requires close attention and is important for the subsequent strength and durability of the building:

At the bottom of the prepared trench, a sand and gravel cushion about 0.3 m thick is created, when the mixture of sand and gravel is filled in, it is compacted with water; you can also immediately use wet sand when creating the cushion;
Formwork from boards is installed along the edges of the trench, and the thickness of the formwork should be as small as possible (<10 см, но не более 20 см), опалубка может быть как съёмной (при этом части опалубки скрепляются саморезами), так и несъемной;
in order for the foundation to be strong, it is reinforced with metal rods, the horizontal and vertical parts of the reinforcement are connected either by welding or with steel wire;
after preparing the reinforcement, a concrete mixture is prepared (crushed stone, sand and cement are mixed in a ratio of 5:3:1), liquid concrete is immediately poured into the trench, and after pouring, the concrete mass must be pierced with a metal rod to release the air trapped inside, or the concrete must be de-aired using deep vibrator;
the mixture hardens within three weeks or more (depending on the weather), it is recommended not to rely on heat and sun, but to immediately cover the foundation with waterproofing material; if the foundation is poured in the cold season, in addition to waterproofing, you also need to use insulation, which results in a three-layer structure: waterproofing/insulation/waterproofing;
after the concrete has completely hardened, the foundation is waterproofed, most often when building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, roofing felt is used as waterproofing - the material is inexpensive and quite reliable.

Laying walls when building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands is the simplest thing, taking a minimum of time and requiring minimal labor. Even one person can handle this, but it’s better, of course, when there are helpers.

The laying of foam blocks is carried out similarly to bricks, the only difference is the size of the foam blocks, which are significantly larger than those of bricks, so the laying is done much faster.

When laying walls made of foam blocks, the same tools are used as when laying brick: a trowel, a hammer-pick, a cord-moor, usually a building level, a jointer, a plumb line and a mortar shovel.

Before you start laying walls, you should check the foundation to see if it is level. If there are any errors, they must be eliminated. A special solution is used for this. If you had to eliminate foundation errors, then laying the walls should be postponed until the mortar has completely hardened.

When laying the first row of foam blocks, it is necessary to arrange high-quality waterproofing, since it is this row that will come into contact with the floor of the bathhouse during its operation, and, as a result, it will be affected by high humidity. In addition, it is the first row of walls that is closest to the ground, and, therefore, it is affected by soil moisture, especially during rains and in the cold season. Therefore, waterproofing material is laid under the first row of foam blocks. It is recommended to use roll-type waterproofing (for example, bikrost).

One more nuance when laying the first row of foam blocks: the masonry mortar should only be sand-cement; other mortars are not suitable for this masonry, but they can be used when laying the next rows of walls.

Laying begins from the corners and gradually moves towards the center, while ensuring that the blocks stand level.

For the construction of a steam room, foam blocks of the M25 brand are recommended. Laying should be done with the utmost care, trying to make the seams as thin as possible so that the foam blocks fit together as tightly as possible. All unevenness and mortar leaks must be removed immediately, otherwise you will have to spend a lot of effort later on correcting the masonry.

The second row of foam block masonry can be made with a shift of up to 50% - similar to brickwork. Here you can no longer use cement-sand mortar, but special glue. However, it should be borne in mind that it is recommended to use one type of glue for the entire masonry, and not change it from row to row.

After laying each row, be sure to check the quality of the masonry (horizontalness) using a building level. If irregularities are detected, even minimal ones, then you need to use a mallet - tap the protruding elements with it, installing them in the right place. The smoother the masonry, the more reliable the walls of the building will be. If it suddenly turns out that the unevenness does not disappear after tapping with a mallet, then you should use a grater.

To simplify masonry, construction experts recommend creating an order - just as is done when laying bricks. For ordering, a wooden strip or metal corner is used.

To make the walls as strong as possible and prevent them from cracking during operation, it is recommended to reinforce them with metal rods. To do this, holes are drilled in the foam blocks into which the solution is poured - this solution serves to protect the reinforcement from corrosion, then the reinforcement is simply pressed into the solution.

After the masonry is completed, the structure should stand for several days (preferably about a week) until the walls are completely dry. To prevent moisture from getting inside the building in the absence of a roof, the future bathhouse is covered with a film, and the film is used not only as a roof replacement, but also for waterproofing the walls, and should cover the entire structure.

Floors can be made in two versions: monolithic or prefabricated. When building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, it is recommended to use monolithic floors, as they have a number of positive features:

low cost;
high fire resistance;
strength and durability;
ease of installation;
ease of purchasing materials.

However, there are also disadvantages that must be taken into account when constructed from foam blocks:

It is not recommended to use “homemade” concrete, but you should purchase a factory mixture;
it is necessary to ensure the lifting of concrete to a great height and, as a result, it is necessary to rent a concrete pump;
it is necessary to install formwork over the entire area.

In addition, the formwork in this case must withstand more than the substantial weight of concrete and, therefore, it is necessary to use timber with a cross-section of at least 10×10 cm, and plywood panels with a width of at least 1.8 cm.

When installing floors, work is performed in the following order:

vertical supports are installed, and the distance between the supports should not be less than 1 m;
boards are installed on vertical supports;
on top of the already installed boards, those boards that are the main part of the formwork are laid;
the lower part of the formwork is covered with roofing felt or other roll-type waterproofing material;
fittings are installed;
concrete is poured.

When building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, you can make floors from hollow concrete slabs. True, to install them in place you will need to rent a crane, but all work is carried out quickly and as simply as possible. The plates are fastened together with a special solution.

Another option for floors is the use of foam concrete slabs. True, it is recommended to make floors of this type only in one-story buildings, despite their strength.

Interfloor ceilings can also be constructed from wooden beams, using monolithic or laminated veneer lumber. You can also use metal beams, however, this option is quite expensive.

Before you begin attaching the Mauerlat, it is necessary to make a reinforcing belt so that the foam concrete blocks do not fall relative to each other. The reinforcing belt allows all loads that appear during roof installation to be distributed evenly.

To create a reinforcing belt:

formwork is located around the perimeter of the building;
the frame is made using thin (about 10 mm) reinforcement;
Threaded studs with a diameter of 1.4 cm are installed in increments of no more than 1 m;
the blocks are filled with concrete grade M-200 (you need to purchase a factory mixture, and not prepare it yourself);
the concrete mixture should dry for about a week;
After the concrete mixture has dried, the formwork is removed.

Before attaching the Mauerlat, the wood must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardant impregnation, and also dried after treatment. In addition, it is recommended to treat the wood with a waterproofing material, and liquid materials are used for this (for example, bitumen or polymer waterproofing). If you have to use damp wood, you need to install an adjusting anchor nut to adjust the position of the material every three to five years until it dries completely.

To attach the Mauerlat:

holes are drilled along the length of the dowels into which fasteners are inserted;
the anchor is installed all the way;
the harpoon is inserted into the concrete, while the teeth are carefully pressed into the depth of the concrete.

This method of attaching the Mauerlat is considered the best. Its only disadvantages include its high cost: a set of an anchor and dowel with a harpoon costs more than 3,000 rubles, however, when it comes to the durability and reliability of the building, it is better to overpay a little.

The rafter system can be installed in two ways. To implement the first method, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

cuts are made in the rafters (1/3 of the length of the rafters);
rafters are secured with nails to metal corners (it is recommended to use exclusively galvanized nails and corners to reduce wood rotting);
metal corners are fixed end-to-end.

When implementing the second method, cuts in the rafters are not required. In this case, bars are used as support, and then, in the same way as in the first case, fastening is carried out. The second method can only be used if the rafters are short, since the length of the support beam cannot exceed a meter.

A prerequisite is to use only well-dried wood. In addition, it is recommended to use hardwood that is not prone to rotting and is resistant to aggressive biological environments. All rafters must also be checked for defects: rafters that are knotty, resinous or contain cavities are not recommended for use.

When building a bathhouse with your own hands from foam blocks, it is recommended to use a gable roof structure with a ridge in the center. In this case, the rafters are joined in the central part, at the ridge, using a tongue-and-groove system.

The roof slope is selected depending on the average annual precipitation, and both rain and snow are taken into account. If the climate is rainy and the winters are snowy, then a slope of about 50-60º is recommended. The optimal overlap for a roof overhang is about half a meter.

When the installation of the roof frame is completed, a sheathing of thin boards is made. Since the boards are thin, increased demands are placed on their quality: they must be uniform, without knots, resin or cavities. Small knots and nicks are allowed and can be cleaned.

The sheathing can be continuous if ondulin or roofing felt is used as a waterproofing material. In this case, the thickness of the boards must be at least 2 cm.

In addition to waterproofing, thermal insulation is also necessary. Mineral wool is the most popular thermal insulation material - the material is inexpensive and easy to install.

When building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, you should remember that the work does not end with the construction of the building box. High-quality thermal insulation and waterproofing are required. For walls, it is recommended to use mineral wool as a thermal insulation material and aluminum foil for hydro- and vapor barrier. In this case, the foil is laid on both sides of the mineral wool.

In addition, it is recommended to insulate the facade of the bathhouse. Mineral wool is also suitable for this, especially if the walls will be finished with plastic panels. If the finishing will be done with decorative plaster, then it is recommended to use foam plastic or other slab-type materials for thermal insulation. It is also possible to use mineral wool in slabs.

It is recommended to use sanded boards and tiles as a floor covering for a bathhouse; moreover, the tiles should not be smooth to prevent injuries from slipping on them. Wooden boards are laid on pre-assembled logs, and tiles are laid on a reinforced concrete screed. Moreover, after laying the tiles, it is necessary to use a moisture-resistant grout for the joints, otherwise the mortar in the joints will quickly begin to crumble, and then the tiles will begin to lag behind the base.

In order to retain hot air in the steam room so that it does not leak under the doors into the dressing room, you need to raise the floor level of the steam room to a height of 10 cm to 20 cm compared to the floor level in the dressing room.

Deciduous wood is recommended as wall decoration for the steam room - it is resistant to rotting in a humid atmosphere. You can also use various exotic wood species that are resistant to high temperatures and humidity. Many exotics emit aromas when heated, which is considered beneficial for the human body. Exotic wood can also be used for flooring - there are interesting durable species that can easily withstand both conditions of high humidity and high temperature. Hardwood and exotic wood can also be used to arrange shelves in the steam room.

Wood has been and remains the traditional material for building a bathhouse. However, the cost of a log house seems to be quite high these days, so more and more often owners of suburban areas are resorting to the use of alternative building materials. Foam blocks are one such example. If you follow simple rules, which will be discussed later, you can build such a bathhouse from a foam block with your own hands according to established projects.

Bathhouse made of foam blocks at the dacha: advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of foam concrete blocks:

High speed of construction;
During operation, the building does not shrink;
Suitable for construction on very small plots;
Possibility of self-construction of a bathhouse without the involvement of professional builders;
The premises can be used immediately after completion of the work;
High fire resistance compared to wooden buildings;
The relatively low mass of the bathhouse, which makes it possible to avoid the use of powerful foundations and makes it possible to build on difficult soils;
Ease of transportation. If desired, foam blocks can be transported even in a passenger car;
Relatively low cost of work.

It won’t take much time to build such a bathhouse.

However, a bathhouse made of foam blocks also has a number of disadvantages:

During operation, condensation will accumulate, which without a well-equipped ventilation system will lead to the appearance of mold and mildew.
When condensate freezes, structural destruction may occur.
The need for additional insulation and waterproofing work.
Relatively low environmental friendliness compared to buildings made of wood.
Formation of “cold bridges” due to poor quality finishing.
Shorter service life compared to brick and wooden baths.

Building a foundation with your own hands

A bathhouse in a country house is a capital structure, so it is impossible to do without a reliable foundation. Let's look at how to do this with step-by-step instructions.

Which is better

The best option is a shallow strip foundation. You can, of course, use a monolithic slab or a pile foundation, but in this case it will simply be a waste of money.

How to choose the right type of foundation:

How to build

Required tool:

concrete mixer or container for mixing mortar;
welding inverter;
hammer;
bayonet shovel;
building level;
roulette;
angle grinder (“grinder”);
Master OK;
hacksaw;
rule;
axe.

Example of a project with an attic and dimensions

You will also need consumables: cutting wheels, electrodes (1.8 mm), nails (60–80 mm).

How to build a foundation: step by step

The foundation installation process step by step:

Clear the area of everything unnecessary, level it, mark the perimeter of the bathhouse using wooden stakes.
Dig a pit around the entire perimeter of the future bathhouse, 50–60 cm deep and 30–35 cm wide.
Stick steel pins (reinforcement) into the corners of the foundation and tie a thick thread to them.
Using a level, accurately mark the upper horizontal line of the foundation (the thread will serve as a visual boundary).
Manufacture and weld a steel frame from reinforcement with a diameter of 10–12 mm. It will be enough to place three rows of reinforcement at the top and bottom so that the total height of the foundation is 70 cm. For vertical elements, thinner reinforcement can be used, the step between them should be 1.5 m.
Put together formwork from boards 25 cm wide around the entire perimeter. In the washing room, provide a hole for the sewer drain in advance by placing a receiving pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.
Prepare concrete mortar by mixing cement with OPGS in a ratio of 1 to 4.
Pour the solution into the formwork, align the top edge using the rule according to the level of the tensioned thread.
Cover the foundation with a tarpaulin or thick burlap, take a break from working until the concrete has completely dried (14–21 days, depending on weather conditions).

A beautiful and elegant building that will decorate your site

Construction of foam block walls

The process of constructing walls from blocks is no different from similar actions when using ordinary bricks. However, due to the fact that the dimensions of the foam blocks are larger, the work goes faster. The best option for building walls is M25 blocks.

What types there are are indicated in this article.

What the design of a bathhouse and a utility block garage looks like is detailed in.

The article indicates projects of bathhouses made of timber with an attic, as well as the technology for their construction:

Features of masonry

No matter how well the foundation is leveled, its upper edge will still have some roughness.

To correct this drawback, the first row of walls is laid out using cement-sand mortar, and all subsequent rows are formed using special glue for foam blocks.

Before work, 2–3 layers of rolled waterproofing must be laid on the foundation.
You will need the following tool:

Master OK;
rubber hammer;
building level for walls;
putty knife;
electric drill with a whisk attachment.

Laying begins from the highest corner of the base, the blocks are laid on the edge, the seams are made as thin as possible.

After the row is formed, the horizontalness is carefully checked using a building level; if necessary, the blocks are leveled by knocking them with a rubber hammer. A metal reinforcing mesh is laid every 2–3 rows. Read about an extension to a wooden tree made of foam blocks.

Before use, the adhesive mixture for foam blocks is stirred with a whisk for 10 minutes. The glue is applied to the surface of the block in a layer of no more than 5 mm. There is no need to wait for the adhesive mixture to dry completely. During the work, check the horizontality and verticality of each row of blocks. In openings for doors and windows, the blocks are laid on steel beams of appropriate sizes. But what they are can be seen in this article.

Bathhouse with attic:

Seam processing

Seams are the weakest point in the construction of a foam block bathhouse. To prevent heat leaks during operation, only an adhesive composition is used for laying walls, and not ordinary cement mortar. Read about the pros and cons of a house made of foam blocks.

After completing the construction of the walls, all seams are additionally treated with glue. To apply it, use a narrow spatula.

How to make a vapor barrier on walls

Foam blocks absorb moisture very well, so installing a vapor barrier on the walls is mandatory. First, the foam blocks are treated with water-repellent compounds on the inside and outside. Then the insulation is attached inside. The best option is basalt or stone wool, as it does not absorb moisture well.

For mineral wool, a special frame is made from wooden beams impregnated with an antiseptic. The fastening step of the beams and their diameter depend on the size of the heat-insulating material; dowels are used as fasteners. Then the finishing finishing material, for example, lining or decorative facing slabs, is attached to the wooden frame.

The insulation is laid in 2 layers to avoid through joints. For vapor barrier, special film membranes are used, and the joints are covered with reflective tape. As additional vapor and thermal insulation, you can use foil penofol, securing it on top of the vapor barrier film.

Roof

The roof of the bathhouse must not only be reliable, but also withstand steam shock from the inside

A gable rafter roof is the best choice for a bathhouse made of foam blocks. The roof is installed after the laying of the stove and chimney is completed.

Roof installation sequence:

Place a mauerlat - a beam with a cross-section of at least 180 mm - on the longitudinal walls. Secure it with anchor bolts.
Make a rafter template: take 2 boards, connect them with the edges to form a kind of “scissors”, nail them.
Place the free ends of the rafters on the mauerlat, select the desired angle of the slope and fix it by attaching the transverse board with self-tapping screws.
Take beams 150x500 mm, attach them to the template, make the necessary markings and cut the rafters.
Fasten the rafters with self-tapping screws (3 pieces for each connection).
Raise the rafters to the edge of the bathhouse, mark the places where they join the Mauerlat.
Hem the junctions of the rafters and the mauerlat so that they fit tightly together.
Connect the rafters and the mauerlat using steel angles, staples, overlays and self-tapping screws.
Make rafters for the opposite end of the roof using a similar pattern and secure them.
Pull the cord between the two installed rafters, secure their trusses with oblique supports.
Cut the remaining trusses and fasten them in increments of 500 mm strictly along the stretched cord.
Take 100x400 mm boards and secure them with self-tapping screws or nails as roof sheathing at a pitch suitable for subsequent fastening of the insulation.
Make a rough ceiling from 25 mm thick boards, securing them between the rafters.
Lay 190 mm thick foam on top.
Lay the finished attic floor from boards 20–25 mm thick.
Lay the roofing material (corrugated sheeting or metal tiles).
Secure the ridge and make a galvanized collar around the pipe.

Do not forget about the ventilation equipment for the interior of the bathhouse, for which leave 2 holes with a diameter of 100 mm at opposite ends of the floor. The gap between the rafter leg and the chimney must be at least 400 mm.

The last stage of wall construction and the reinforced sauna belt:

External and internal finishing

The choice of material for finishing work depends on financial capabilities and taste preferences. Usually, the outside walls are simply plastered in 2 layers with a total thickness of 10–15 mm and covered with siding or simply painted with water-repellent paint, having previously been puttied and covered with a primer. We recommend material about.

How to decorate a bathhouse inside:

Sometimes the inside of a foam block bathhouse is also plastered and covered with facing tiles. But this is a more expensive and not entirely aesthetically advantageous method, and it is also quite labor-intensive. Check out our article about.

A foam concrete bathhouse is a compromise option when finances and space on the site for the construction of a full-fledged structure made of logs or timber are not enough, but the desire to steam in your own sauna is great. Read also about, and.

Having a bathhouse at your dacha or in a country house is almost a prerequisite. The bathhouse is both comfort and general improvement of the body. In some cases, a bathhouse is the only opportunity to wash properly (for example, at the dacha). And, of course, a bathhouse is an indispensable component of a country holiday with barbecue. In general, you can’t go anywhere without a bathhouse.

foam blocks have increased strength (compression resistance ranges from 3.5 MPa to 5 MPa - depending on the brand of foam blocks), so most brands of this material can be used in the construction of two- or even three-story structures;
foam blocks are a very light building material, their density, depending on the brand, ranges from 400-1600 kg/m3, and work with such material can be carried out without the use of special equipment, lifts, etc., even one person can lift and install the blocks, in addition, the lightness of foam blocks allows the use of lightweight foundations during construction and the construction of structures on almost any soil, except, perhaps, swampy soils;
the thermal insulation characteristics of foam blocks are almost the same as those of wood and three times better than those of red brick, which is very important for a structure such as a bathhouse, where it is necessary to maintain the temperature;
foam blocks are a porous material, which ensures their excellent soundproofing characteristics;
foam blocks are moisture-resistant and frost-resistant, which is very important in cold winters; this building material does not crack due to frost, and retains its performance qualities for many years;
foam blocks can be cut into pieces, grooved, sawed, and so on - they retain their strength.

Considering that a bathhouse is a structure with high humidity, and this humidity spreads around, the construction site must be cleared not only of debris, but also of the fertile soil layer, as well as grass, leaves, tree branches, and so on - no organic matter should remain materials, since in conditions of high humidity they can rot, which inevitably leads to accelerated destruction of the foundation and even the walls of the building.

Typically, the depth of the trench for a strip foundation ranges from 0.5-1 m with a width of about 0.3 m. When calculating the depth of the foundation, the laying of a sand-gravel cushion and various layers of insulation (for example, hydro- and vapor barrier) should be taken into account. The same applies to the width of the foundation - it depends on the width of the wall material, in this case - foam blocks. The width of the foundation is not equal to the width of the foam block, but should be slightly larger, since the installation of insulating materials will be required.

An unpleasant surprise for a novice builder may be heaving of the soil at the site chosen for construction, or the close occurrence of groundwater. It is recommended that before starting to build a bathhouse, contact an organization engaged in geodetic and geological surveys to check the depth of groundwater and the ability of the soil to heave. Otherwise, the building may turn out to be extremely fragile and will not withstand even two or three seasons.

Sewerage for a bathhouse should be provided at the stage of arranging the foundation, that is, at the very first stage, during excavation work. A channel must be created in advance inside the building's contour, having such an inclination so that wastewater can flow by gravity outside the building. If the village has a centralized sewerage system, then this outlet can be connected to it. Otherwise, you need to either make a separate cesspool intended for wastewater from the bathhouse, or equip a well, or connect this drain to an existing autonomous sewer system.

The foundation for a bathhouse is created in six stages, each of which requires close attention and is important for the subsequent strength and durability of the building:

At the bottom of the prepared trench, a sand and gravel cushion about 0.3 m thick is created, when the mixture of sand and gravel is filled in, it is compacted with water; you can also immediately use wet sand when creating the cushion;
Formwork from boards is installed along the edges of the trench, and the thickness of the formwork should be as small as possible (<10 см, но не более 20 см), опалубка может быть как съёмной (при этом части опалубки скрепляются саморезами), так и несъемной;
in order for the foundation to be strong, it is reinforced with metal rods, the horizontal and vertical parts of the reinforcement are connected either by welding or with steel wire;
after preparing the reinforcement, a concrete mixture is prepared (crushed stone, sand and cement are mixed in a ratio of 5:3:1), liquid concrete is immediately poured into the trench, and after pouring, the concrete mass must be pierced with a metal rod to release the air trapped inside, or the concrete must be de-aired using deep vibrator;
the mixture hardens within three weeks or more (depending on the weather), it is recommended not to rely on heat and sun, but to immediately cover the foundation with waterproofing material; if the foundation is poured in the cold season, in addition to waterproofing, you also need to use insulation, which results in a three-layer structure: waterproofing/insulation/waterproofing;
after the concrete has completely hardened, the foundation is waterproofed, most often when building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, roofing felt is used as waterproofing - the material is inexpensive and quite reliable.

When laying walls made of foam blocks, the same tools are used as when laying brick: a trowel, a hammer-pick, a cord-moor, usually a building level, a jointer, a plumb line and a mortar shovel.

One more nuance when laying the first row of foam blocks: the masonry mortar should only be sand-cement; other mortars are not suitable for this masonry, but they can be used when laying the next rows of walls.

Laying begins from the corners and gradually moves towards the center, while ensuring that the blocks stand level.

To simplify masonry, construction experts recommend creating an order - just as is done when laying bricks. For ordering, a wooden strip or metal corner is used.

low cost;
high fire resistance;
strength and durability;
ease of installation;
ease of purchasing materials.

However, there are also disadvantages that must be taken into account when constructed from foam blocks:

It is not recommended to use “homemade” concrete, but you should purchase a factory mixture;
it is necessary to ensure the lifting of concrete to a great height and, as a result, it is necessary to rent a concrete pump;
it is necessary to install formwork over the entire area.

When installing floors, work is performed in the following order:

vertical supports are installed, and the distance between the supports should not be less than 1 m;
boards are installed on vertical supports;
on top of the already installed boards, those boards that are the main part of the formwork are laid;
the lower part of the formwork is covered with roofing felt or other roll-type waterproofing material;
fittings are installed;
concrete is poured.

Another option for floors is the use of foam concrete slabs. True, it is recommended to make floors of this type only in one-story buildings, despite their strength.

Interfloor ceilings can also be constructed from wooden beams, using monolithic or laminated veneer lumber. You can also use metal beams, however, this option is quite expensive.

To create a reinforcing belt:

formwork is located around the perimeter of the building;
the frame is made using thin (about 10 mm) reinforcement;
Threaded studs with a diameter of 1.4 cm are installed in increments of no more than 1 m;
the blocks are filled with concrete grade M-200 (you need to purchase a factory mixture, and not prepare it yourself);
the concrete mixture should dry for about a week;
After the concrete mixture has dried, the formwork is removed.

To attach the Mauerlat:

holes are drilled along the length of the dowels into which fasteners are inserted;
the anchor is installed all the way;
the harpoon is inserted into the concrete, while the teeth are carefully pressed into the depth of the concrete.

The rafter system can be installed in two ways. To implement the first method, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

cuts are made in the rafters (1/3 of the length of the rafters);
rafters are secured with nails to metal corners (it is recommended to use exclusively galvanized nails and corners to reduce wood rotting);
metal corners are fixed end-to-end.

The sheathing can be continuous if ondulin or roofing felt is used as a waterproofing material. In this case, the thickness of the boards must be at least 2 cm.

In addition to waterproofing, thermal insulation is also necessary. Mineral wool is the most popular thermal insulation material - the material is inexpensive and easy to install.

The emergence of modern materials, which include foam blocks, and their increasing popularity have largely begun to supplant the classic “recipes” for building a bathhouse.

Many people refuse to use wood, citing the fact that the use of bricks and building blocks guarantees a significantly longer service life of the building. And the construction of a block bathhouse takes significantly less time.

And since this material is in great demand, we devote our attention to the issue, in which we consider all stages of construction and draw your attention to the main nuances. Here we will consider building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, that is, on your own.

Which foam concrete to choose for a bath?

The construction of block baths is still a fairly new branch in construction, so there are many points of view, the abundance of which can cause confusion. We will try to outline all the features, starting with the fact that foam concrete comes in different types.

Classically, all foam blocks are divided into 4 categories (classes, brands):

D300-D500(belong to the category of blocks with the lowest thermal conductivity, have a particularly porous structure, which affects their strength; suitable only as a thermal insulation layer);
D600-800(have an optimal ratio of strength and thermal insulation, well suited for building a bathhouse, including as a material for load-bearing walls);
D900-1200(they have high strength characteristics, but require additional high-quality thermal insulation);
D1300-1600(they are rare, they are not produced in large volumes, they belong to the category of special orders, the strength for the construction of a bathhouse is excessive, because it is more suitable for multi-story construction).

On a note! New products on the market include foam blocks with the addition of new components: wood chips, foam balls, etc. These additives contribute to the appearance of additional properties of the blocks.

The main difference is the weight range, which increases as the block's strength increases.

Since the production of blocks is strictly regulated by state standards, the gradation of sizes is clearly established and is:

wall blocks for load-bearing (including external) walls: 200*300*600 mm;
partition blocks for partitions (including internal and interior): 100*300*600 mm.

Almost every region presents foam blocks from different manufacturers; choosing from all the variety is not easy.

Walls

As already mentioned, it is best to choose foam blocks of the D600-800 brand. Many experts agree that the first 2-3 rows need to be reinforced. The most prudent ones recommend reinforcement every 4-5 rows. Additionally, door and window openings require reinforcement. A metal mesh with a fine mesh is well suited as a reinforcing material.

And here is the opinion of another professional who has built dozens of buildings from foam blocks. You need to reinforce the rows under window and door openings and the rows above them. Reinforce not completely the rows, but specifically the places above the openings, since cracks formed there. No more reinforcement; the reinforcement in the foundation and armored belt is enough. Reinforce in U-shaped blocks.

IMPORTANT! Blocks should only be laid on edge, checking each layer using a vertical plumb line and a horizontal level (for beginners, choosing a laser level with maximum accuracy is preferable).

For the first row, a cement-sand mixture is used, subsequent rows must be secured with a special adhesive.

REFERENCE. The permissible thickness of joining seams should not exceed 5 mm. Too thick seams reduce the effectiveness of using foam blocks and there is a possibility of so-called “cold bridges” occurring.

Useful video

Watch a short video about laying foam block walls:

The mixture is applied using a special spatula, and each block should be tapped with a rubber hammer for a better fit.

How to properly insulate foam concrete baths?

The porous structure of foam blocks provides excellent thermal insulation properties of this material for construction.

Insulation on the outside is not required at all, but many resort to a small layer of insulation, because... combine this process with external decoration and surface waterproofing. One of the external insulation technologies is. Buildings built from foam concrete are not characterized by the most attractive appearance, so finishing work on them is not uncommon. Most of the thermal insulation work is carried out from the inside.

Foundation insulation

Many people miss this stage when building a bathhouse, which is wrong. It is the missing thermal insulation of the foundation that often causes rotting of the foundation and floors. This is easy to explain:

during winter operation of the bathhouse, temperature changes guarantee the formation of condensation (external cold and internal heat);
in the summer, the role of the cooling factor will be played by the coolness from the ground, the difference will also cause condensation.

In addition, an uninsulated foundation contributes to the formation of drafts that will cool the bathhouse. Even a sufficiently insulated floor may not prevent this.

is quite wide and does not require serious financial investments. Mineral wool, polystyrene foam or bulk materials (expanded clay, sawdust) are suitable.

First of all, it must be said that requires waterproofing, otherwise when wet it will lose all its beneficial properties. Besides, the use of mineral wool and polystyrene foam under the steam room should be limited(insulations suitable for steam rooms are presented). There is a possibility of exposure to high temperatures, which can lead to the release of harmful substances. It is recommended to avoid this.

REFERENCE. The use of polystyrene foam and penoplex requires a durable floor. If penoplex can be selected from among brands with an increased compression ratio, then the foam plastic must be guaranteed to be protected from the effects of external pressure.

Floor insulation

Since a block bathhouse requires a strip foundation, it is best to install ventilated floors. They will ensure the boards dry quickly, and this, in turn, will increase their service life.

Wall insulation

Ceiling insulation

One of the sources of heat loss is evaporation through the cracks of an uninsulated ceiling, because warm air always tends upward. And combination with a vapor barrier will allow you to not change the ceiling boards for a longer period of time.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse made of foam blocks: conclusions?

Indeed, it is quite possible to build a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, if you have certain skills and equipment.

An important role is played by the purchase of high-quality materials for construction - blocks from a trusted manufacturer. Remember that your own safety is not something you should skimp on.

After all, a bathhouse made of foam blocks is superior to brick and concrete bathhouses in terms of environmental friendliness, and is slightly inferior to wooden ones: . Features of insulation or baths may influence the choice of the final solution. They have a wide range of options, in favor of which clients often make their choice.

Where to order

If any of the proposed material raises doubts about the correctness of the decision to build it yourself, then it is better to farm it out.

Traditionally, baths were built from natural wood, which provided warmth, comfort and environmental friendliness. Rising prices for natural materials and the frequent deterioration of their quality have provoked the search for alternatives that would not be inferior in environmental friendliness and warmth, but at the same time would be more affordable. In this regard, foam blocks and other varieties of lightweight and cellular concrete are becoming more common. About building a bathhouse from a foam block with your own hands in five simple steps later in the article.

Construction of a foam block bath: pros and cons

The low cost of foam concrete, in comparison with other building materials, and ease of use, make it the most popular when constructing various buildings with your own hands. But is it possible to build a bathhouse from foam blocks? To answer this question objectively, it is necessary to take into account all the existing advantages and disadvantages of construction from this material.

Foam blocks have large dimensions and low weight, which has a positive effect on the labor intensity of work

A foam concrete bathhouse has pros and cons, namely:

Advantages	Flaws
1. Absolute compliance with building codes. 2.High speed of wall construction due to the large block size. 3. Possibility of giving blocks different shapes (due to ease of sawing). 4. The small mass of the blocks does not require the use of additional equipment or the help of other people. The construction of a bathhouse can be done by one, even an unprofessional worker. 5.High temperature resistance. 6. Fire resistance. 7.High structural strength with proper construction. 8.No shrinkage. 9.Immunity to fungal microflora and mold. 10.Environmentally friendly material. 11.Relatively low cost.	1.Fragility of the material. Purchasing high-quality material from trusted suppliers, as well as careful handling of the blocks during operation, will help eliminate this drawback. 2.High water absorption. This deficiency can be corrected by providing high-quality water protection and vapor barrier. 3.High thermal conductivity. A foam block bath requires high-quality thermal insulation work.

Advantages

Flaws

1. Absolute compliance with building codes.
2.High speed of wall construction due to the large block size.
3. Possibility of giving blocks different shapes (due to ease of sawing).
4. The small mass of the blocks does not require the use of additional equipment or the help of other people. The construction of a bathhouse can be done by one, even an unprofessional worker.
5.High temperature resistance.
6. Fire resistance.
7.High structural strength with proper construction.
8.No shrinkage.
9.Immunity to fungal microflora and mold.
10.Environmentally friendly material.
11.Relatively low cost.

1.Fragility of the material. Purchasing high-quality material from trusted suppliers, as well as careful handling of the blocks during operation, will help eliminate this drawback.
2.High water absorption. This deficiency can be corrected by providing high-quality water protection and vapor barrier.
3.High thermal conductivity. A foam block bath requires high-quality thermal insulation work.

Despite the presence of shortcomings in the construction of a bathhouse made of foam concrete, all of them can be eliminated. This allows us to give an affirmative answer to the initial question - building a bathhouse from foam concrete is quite advisable.

Cellular concrete has high strength and durability

Construction of a bathhouse from foam blocks - laying the foundation

A well-constructed bathhouse made from aerated concrete and other types of porous concrete is a reliable and environmentally friendly building that is guaranteed to serve its owner for many years.

To carry out proper construction, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the basic advice of experts:

Laying reinforcing mesh on every third row of masonry will ensure maximum strength of the entire structure.
Door and window openings must be equipped with special ceilings.
The laying of blocks must be carried out not only carefully and competently, but also quickly, which will prevent the adhesive mixture from hardening.
To level the blocks, you must use a special rubber mallet.
An important point is to perform high-quality work related to water protection and vapor barrier.

A material called foam concrete is available and easy to use. The presence of shortcomings associated with the construction of a steam room can be corrected. Therefore, the answer to the question: is it possible to build a bathhouse from foam blocks, definitely yes. Eco-friendly and high-quality material will ensure comfort, reliability and safety of a bathhouse built with your own hands.