Arbolite blocks - advantages and disadvantages. We study the main stages of plastering walls from the inside and outside. How to plaster a house made of wood concrete from the outside

Arbolite houses are one of the most common today. Arbolite combines all the advantages of concrete and wood. This building material is very unique and is used for finishing it various technologies. The principle of finishing is that it is necessary to avoid materials that can harm the wood concrete. Due to the fact that wood concrete has a large-porous structure, finishing of wood concrete must be carried out to prevent the penetration of moisture. If moisture gets inside the material, it will begin to deteriorate from the inside. The type of protective and finishing coating is determined in each specific case depending on the purpose of the building, its location, as well as the amount of funds invested in construction.

How can you plaster wood concrete?

The main method of finishing a house made of wood concrete is plaster. Since the surface of the material is rough, the adhesion between wood concrete and plaster is as high as possible. In this case, there is no need for preliminary preparation for finishing. Although many experts recommend stuffing metal mesh for better grip. It is also believed that this can significantly extend the life of the finish. Fastening the mesh is very simple, just nails and a hammer are enough.

The following types of plaster can be used:

Cement plaster. The composition includes sand and cement. For a wall with a standard thickness (30 cm), the thickness of the plaster layer should be 20 mm.
Gypsum plaster. The main component is gypsum with various fillers.
Lime plaster. The base is lime. After applying a layer of plaster, putty over the primer. After this work, some developers paint the walls with facade paint.
Decorative plaster. There are lime, acrylic, latex. Acrylic plaster one of the most convenient. Exists in the form ready-made mixtures. It has very good vapor permeability, which is a great advantage for wood concrete.

How can you veneer wood concrete?

Another way of cladding external walls the house is wall cladding. A wide variety of materials are used - siding, lining. In addition to them, brick finishing is carried out. In this case, several problems are solved at once - the houses acquire some kind of armor and additional heat and sound insulation is created. The properties of wood concrete allow cladding without insulation, however, at the request of the developer, a layer can be laid mineral wool. For wood concrete this will only be a plus, since this material will allow it to “breathe”. It is important that there is a gap of 4–5 cm between the wood concrete and the brick, this will help to avoid moisture. Also, with brick cladding, it is important to install ventilation systems. Otherwise, wood concrete may be destroyed by moisture.

Can be used for cladding vinyl siding. These panels retain all the properties of wood concrete and allow the walls of the house to breathe. In addition, this finish looks aesthetically pleasing and is very resistant to external influences, such as moisture. But there is a disadvantage in the form of deformation from high temperatures. Use of Block House panels as a finishing material. Provides a mandatory frame of bars onto which the panels themselves are attached.

Cladding has become very popular. Lining allows you to visually align the walls. If the walls themselves are smooth. then you can mount the lining directly to the wall. If there are any flaws, then you can use the already familiar crate. In general, the installation of lining is carried out according to the same principle as siding panels or Block House.

What is the difference between the interior finishing of wood concrete and the exterior?

It also has its own characteristics interior decoration wood concrete Of course, the main place here is given to plaster. It is applied according to the same principle as external cladding. It is very important to know that during work and during subsequent operation of the house, the humidity should not exceed 70%. This building material should not be used in buildings where there will be aggressive conditions. It is worth recalling that substances that improve the characteristics of wood concrete are important in the composition of plaster. These include perlite, which, in turn, is a good insulation material. After this, you can safely paint the walls or stick wallpaper on them.

Also, the inside walls are trimmed with clapboard. To install it, you must install wooden sheathing. This will hide communications and will not interfere with vapor permeability. As a minus, we can note the increased fire hazard of this material.

Another option internal lining– drywall. A frame is also required. View from plasterboard cladding very attractive. In addition, drywall allows you to create any shape and embody all ideas. In most cases for finishing works installation of sheathing is required. It is important that this work is carried out efficiently, since the sheathing will have to withstand the weight finishing materials, communications and insulation.

Finally

When building walls from wood concrete, it is important to remember that it strongly absorbs moisture. Therefore, it is necessary to wet the blocks before laying. This is done to prevent the solution from drying out. This advice is especially relevant in dry and hot weather. It is also important to do good waterproofing between the foundation and the walls, because arbolite blocks are 80% wood. Without insulation, wood concrete will draw moisture from the soil, making rooms and walls damp. This will lead to the destruction of the house.

Arbolite is a unique material, one might say. It combines high strength and low thermal conductivity, which makes it possible to raise houses on two or three floors, taking into account the thermal characteristics of the building elements. But it has one rather serious disadvantage - high water absorption, equal to 75-85%. That is, water that gets on the wood concrete is immediately absorbed, reducing the characteristics of the building material. Therefore, plastering wood concrete from the outside is a mandatory process.

Someone solves the problem of protecting the walls of a house made of wood concrete using other technologies, for example, installing windproof facades, and makes a big mistake. Because this wall block material absorbs not only water, but also moisture. And this will lead to the appearance of mold and fungi, cracking and other unpleasant moments. No one prohibits the use of wind protection in the form of panels, siding and other materials for finishing. But it is necessary to plaster the wood concrete.

Types of plaster

What manufacturers offer today in the category of plasters for external walls. In principle, the list is not very large, so it will be easy to select the required composition.

Plaster dry mixtures based on cement.
Lime based.
Decorative compositions.
Silicone.

Cement

Until recently, cement plasters were made by hand by mixing sifted sand and cement in a 3:1 ratio with the addition of lime milk. Today, mixtures are sold dry in paper bags with precise proportions of ingredients that simply need to be diluted with water. The concentration is indicated on the packaging. Mixing is done by pouring the composition into a container of water, and not vice versa. The mixing process itself is carried out with a construction mixer.

Plastering a house made of wood concrete with cement compositions is a hardening of surfaces that will withstand heavy loads, especially impact loads. The only negative is the reduced vapor permeability. This is not to say that it is very low, but lower than that of other formulations. That is, walls made of wood concrete plastered with cement mortar do not “breathe” well.

Limestone

This type of plaster is made from clean river sand and lime. The ratio can vary from 1:2 to 1:5 depending on the fat content of the lime used. Making such solutions yourself is not a problem. First, the lime is slaked, and then sand is added to it.

Manufacturers of dry plaster mixtures offer several varieties of this material:

with the addition of gypsum to lime;
cement;
clay.

The first option is not recommended for outdoor use. But the last two are ideal in this regard. As for the last mixture, in pure form clay and lime do not mix. Either cement or sand is still added to such a composition in small quantities.

Decorative

There is a wide variety of mixtures that differ from each other in the polymer component.

Silicate, the component of which is liquid glass. This is an elastic material with high vapor permeability.
Acrylic. Added to the composition acrylic resins. Elastic solution with low vapor permeability.
Epoxy based on epoxy resins.
Polyurethane.
Polyvinyl acetate.
Acrylic styrene.

All indicated plasters can withstand high temperatures– up to +90° and do not change their characteristics under the influence of sunlight.

Silicone

This type of facade plaster is distinguished in separate group, because this is the most expensive material of all the above, but with excellent performance characteristics. The service life of silicone plaster is at least 25 years. It is easy to apply and is sold ready-made.

Now to the question of which plaster is better for wood concrete. Basically, for this wall material it makes no difference what it will be plastered with. After all, the main task of the plaster layer is to protect the wood concrete from moisture. And all the materials described above can easily cope with this. In this case, the choice must be made according to optimal ratio prices and quality characteristics. Plus, you need to look at which wood concrete structure needs to be plastered. For example, if it is a garage or other outbuilding, then there is no point in using an expensive solution. By the way, today many people use wood concrete plaster with clay. This is the cheapest option. Not the most presentable, but it has its place.

Wood concrete plastering technology

So, the question of how to plaster wood concrete on the outside has been resolved, the composition has been selected, and we can proceed to construction and repair operations. Like all processes in construction, plastering wood concrete walls is divided into two parts: preparation and the main process.

Preparation

There is no need to carry out any complex actions at this stage. There is no need to prime the plane of the walls, because this is unnecessary for wood concrete. Blocks made from it have a porous structure due to wood chips used in concrete as a filler. Therefore, any plaster mortar can be applied to them without prior preparation. By the way, there is no need to attach reinforcing mesh to the wall for the same reason. The only thing that needs to be done is to dust the wall with a broom.

Now two points:

If plaster is the final finishing layer (followed by a finishing coating), so to speak, leveling, then a frame of metal profiles is assembled under it.
If the facade of the house is covered with a windproof structure, then there are no special requirements for the evenness of the plaster layer. In this case, plastering the walls will simply perform protective functions.

In the second case, applying the plaster will look like this: using a trowel, the solution is applied to the surface of the wall and leveled with a trowel. The layer should be small - up to 5 cm.

IN preparatory work the first case includes the installation of metal profiles. This is done like this:

At the edges of the wall, two vertical profiles are installed, which are aligned exactly vertically and in the same plane with each other. They can be attached to the wall with plaster in the form of several piles.
Then a strong thread is stretched horizontally between the profiles in several rows (4-6).
After that, intermediate vertical profiles are installed every 100-150 cm with fastening to plaster. The installation requirement is to align the profiles exactly along the tensioned threads.

Applying plaster

Now we are plastering the house. The prepared solution is thrown with a trowel between the laid profiles and leveled with a long rule, pulling the material from the bottom up while moving the tool across the laid beacons. In this case, the profiles laid on the wall serve as supports for the rule.

This technology allows you to interrupt plastering. The main thing is to fill the gap between the two beacons with the mixture. If it is not possible to level all the walls in one day, the process can be postponed to the next. Nobody demands precise evenness and smoothness from the applied plaster. The task is to level out large differences in walls and fill the porous structure of wood concrete surfaces. By the way, this is why plastered wood concrete is a material that requires large quantity plaster.

In this form, with the profiles inside, the walls are left for several days to plaster layer dried well. Then the profiles are dismantled, and their installation sites are filled with plaster or repair (cement-sand) mortar.

Note that the arbolite plaster inside is produced using exactly the same technology.

Advantages of plastering wood concrete walls

If we talk about the advantages of this method of protecting walls built from wood concrete, then three criteria should be noted.

Waterproofing wall material. Any solution described above has these qualities. And the thicker the applied layer, the higher the waterproofing characteristics. They are believed to increase depending on the application technology used protective composition. For example, shotcrete technology using a special machine.
Thermal insulation - there is no doubt here, because the thicker the external walls, the warmer it is in the house. You can increase this characteristic different ways, for example, use plaster with perlite on wood concrete or with the addition of expanded polystyrene chips.
Sound insulation - everything here is the same as with thermal insulation in terms of application thickness. But if you add crumbs to the PP solution, then this characteristic will increase several times.

Conclusion on the topic

So, several questions were considered that touched on the topics - what is the best way to plaster walls, and how to properly plaster a house made of wood concrete. From the information provided, it becomes clear that this process is no different from those associated with leveling brick, block, concrete or stone surfaces. The only difference is the absence of reinforcing mesh. The remaining requirements for the processes being carried out are the same.

Of course, we must take into account that wood concrete is a specific material. But he's easy to work with. The plaster fits well on it; there is no need to prepare the finishing surfaces. And this reduces the time for construction operations and the funds for purchasing additional materials.

Arbolite blocks- This construction material, for the production of which crushed waste from woodworking and sawmilling, water and high-quality cement are used. A small percentage of chemical additives is allowed. Depending on the components in the composition, they are distinguished different types finished products:
– made from sawdust.

To give them greater strength, manufacturers increase mass fraction cement. Due to this, strength increases, but the heat efficiency of the finished product decreases:

Made from wood chips. A large percentage of wood chips ensures high elasticity and strength of the blocks.
From a mixture of wood chips and sawdust. This type has average strength and thermal conductivity.

Based on their purpose and application, finished products can be divided into the following groups:

Structural– for the main masonry of walls (walls), construction of partitions, installation of armored belts, use as lintels over windows and doors.
Thermal insulation– for insulation of floors and walls (arbolite thermal panels).

Specifications

Arbolite is produced in the form of wall blocks gray measuring 500x300x200 mm and partition walls measuring 500x150x200 mm. The thermal panel has dimensions of 820x620x80 mm.

Here are some basic specifications wood concrete and compare them with other building materials:

The average density is 650 kg/m3, and for structural blocks it is higher than for thermal insulation blocks, and amounts to 700-750 kg/m3. The density of wood concrete is higher than that of wood and aerated concrete, but less than that of brick and expanded clay concrete.
The material has low thermal conductivity - 0.12 W/(m x °C). Of all the building materials, only natural wood has the lowest thermal conductivity.
The compressive strength of the material is 0.5–8.5 MPa. For aerated concrete, the tensile strength is 2.5–15 MPa, for ceramic brick 2.5–25 MPa.
Frost resistance indicator – 25–100 cycles. It is the largest among all building materials, with the exception of wood.
Water absorption of wood concrete is 40–85% by weight. This is the maximum figure. For other building materials, the average percentage of water absorption is 16%.
The material has a shrinkage of 0.4–0.5%.
The bending strength is 0.7–1.0 MPa. It is the bending strength that sets wood concrete apart from others cellular concrete. Under the same load, aerated concrete or foam concrete may crack, but they will not appear in wood concrete.

Advantages and disadvantages

Arbolite blocks have many advantages:

They have very low thermal conductivity, which allows the construction of objects without additional insulation, even in the northern regions. The high heat capacity of wood concrete ensures savings of thirty percent of energy resources for space heating during subsequent operation.
They have high noise insulation properties. The sound absorption coefficient of wood concrete is 0.17–0.6 units, wood has a coefficient of 0.06–0.1, and brick is not higher than 0.04. This feature of the material has become particularly relevant due to the increased building density of houses at the present time.
Arbolite is an environmentally friendly material. Made of 80% wood, it does not highlight harmful substances when heated, and is safe for the health of people and animals.
Non-flammable(belongs to the group of low-flammable substances), are difficult to ignite and produce little smoke.
Not subject to cracking undemanding to transportation conditions and have high strength indicators. Wood concrete walls are very strong and reliable;
The arbolite block is relatively light in weight, which makes it possible to use inexpensive.
The blocks are very flexible due to the ability of wood chips in their composition to shrink and recover without losing their original properties.
When constructing small objects, you can not use masonry reinforcement and installation of monolithic belts.
They are not subject to rotting processes and are resistant to mold, even in conditions of high humidity. The walls of the house can “breathe” due to the porous structure and high wood content in the composition.
The material is easy to process. You can easily drive a nail or screw a screw into it, drill, saw or cut it to the desired size.
Laying a wall made of wood concrete takes much less time than when using other materials.

Of course, no building material can be ideal in all respects. And, like everyone else, wood concrete has its drawbacks:

The presence of a large number of “handicraft” products on the market. When purchasing wood concrete, especially in the regions, there is a high probability of purchasing a low-quality product.
When using manual labor During production, the geometry of finished products is disrupted, which leads to the need to increase the size of the seams. This reduces the speed of laying the material, requires greater consumption of masonry mortar and causes freezing of the seams.
Wood concrete is approximately one and a half times more expensive than foam concrete or aerated concrete. This is caused by the large share of manual labor and insufficient automation of the production process.
The blocks do not have an attractive decorative appearance. Wall finishing with plaster is mandatory, hanging systems or wood paneling.

The choice of finishing materials is limited, since it is necessary to preserve the environmental friendliness of wood concrete.

Features of laying wood concrete blocks

Due to large size Wood concrete blocks are laid in 1 or 0.5 blocks. For the solution you need to prepare Portland cement, water and sand.

The first block is laid in the corner of the building, the solution is applied to the prepared foundation surface. On himself building block you don't need to put it down. The recommended thickness of the solution is no more than 2 mm. Then the level is leveled and the block is pressed tightly. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.

Subsequent blocks are laid side by side, however, the solution must also be applied to their lateral parts that are in contact. The masonry is carried out in several rows in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the blocks is maintained the same. When applying the solution to the surface of the material, it is necessary to leave a thermal break to maintain the low thermal conductivity of the material.

There is no need to rush the construction process. Experts recommend laying no more than three rows per day, and adding special additives to the solution to increase strength and speed up the drying process. After a day, the wood concrete is securely fixed, and installation can continue.

If subsequent finishing of facades is planned using frame finishing or brick cladding, then in the process of laying arbolite blocks it is necessary to make connecting reinforcement in the walls, which can then be built into the finishing to ensure a connection between the wall and the finishing.

Wood concrete is a very unique building material and various technologies are used for its finishing. Plastering arbolite walls plaster mixture is the first and main way exterior finishing Houses. The principle of finishing is that it is necessary to avoid materials that can harm the wood concrete. Due to the fact that this building material has a large-porous structure, it must be finished to prevent moisture penetration. If moisture gets inside the material, it will begin to deteriorate from the inside. The type of protective and finishing coating is determined in each specific case depending on the purpose of the building, its location, as well as the amount of funds invested in construction.

Since the surface of the wood concrete is rough, the adhesion to the plaster will be as high as possible. In this case, there is no need for preliminary preparation of the material for finishing. Although many experts recommend stuffing metal mesh for better adhesion. It is also believed that this can significantly extend the life of the finish. It is very easy to secure the mesh using nails and a hammer.

There are two options: either we use only rough plaster, which we cover with a ventilated facade, or we line the block with rough and finishing solution. The first layer always plays a protective role, the second (finishing with a decorative mixture or installing panels/lining) - an aesthetic one.

Now that it is clear what solutions we need, let's choose the most suitable one.

Rough plaster

Cement-sand mixture. The most common and cheapest type plaster mortar. For the standard width of a wood concrete wall (300 mm), a layer of 20 mm is needed. It doesn’t “breathe” very well, but for rough cladding (especially if we're talking about about garages, workshops, wood concrete baths) is suitable;
Lime plaster. The base is lime. Slightly more expensive than cement plaster, but has greater vapor permeability. It fully retains the properties of wood concrete and protects no worse than cement-sand. After applying a layer of plaster, putty over the primer. After this work, some developers paint the walls with facade paint.

What is typical is that reinforcing mesh is not needed for plastering walls made of wood concrete: the large-porous structure of the block already plays its role. If the wood concrete block is produced using the correct technology (specifically, without lubricating the mold with industrial oil), then there will be no greasy stains on it, and the plaster will lie smoothly and firmly.

Finish plaster

Finishing solutions are, in any case, those that are applied to the rough layer: in this case, they can play the role of a decorative coating or be intended for painting. Accordingly, they are divided into two large groups - decorative and ordinary. The second type also requires the use of a primer - for adhesion to the paint.

Gypsum plaster. The main component is gypsum with various fillers;
Decorative plaster. There are lime, acrylic, latex. Acrylic plaster is one of the most convenient. Available in the form of ready-made mixtures. It has very good vapor permeability, which is a great advantage for wood concrete.

So, how can you plaster wood concrete walls?

Rough plaster + lathing + ventilated facade
Water repellent + lathing + ventilated facade
Rough plaster + finishing plaster + primer + painting
Rough plaster + finishing decorative plaster

Some experts add to the usual cement mortar lime paste (about 0.5-1 part) or water-retaining additives.

However, it is worth considering that when adding certain additives (expanded polystyrene, foam glass or slag), the walls will “breathe” worse. This occurs due to different vapor permeability parameters of the materials, which results in the formation of a dew point (the walls freeze and become covered with damp spots inside). If you do not want to interfere with the air permeability of wood concrete, then it is recommended to use expanded clay, barite, perlite or vermiculite as additives.

Plastering arbolite walls

The process of applying external plaster to wood concrete differs from the processing of other concrete in its simplicity. You can apply a protective layer almost immediately after construction; it is not necessary to treat the surface or use reinforcing mesh.

The use of reinforcing mesh in the process of plastering walls made of wood concrete will increase the service life of the finish, but even without it plaster composition will “stick” firmly to the surface.

Considering that wood concrete does not require either insulation or reinforcing mesh, in the end it will turn out to be a more economical material, but the consumption of rough plaster on a wall will be twice as much as, say, on ordinary concrete. This happens because the solution also gets into the cavities between the chips, and not just onto the surface itself. True, due to this there will be better adhesion to the block.

Plastering walls made of wood concrete can be done using only one rules or using auxiliary elements - lighthouses. If you use the rule without resorting to beacons, you can save a lot of time and labor costs. There is no special procedure: spread the mixture in a small layer and level it special tools- the rule.

Rule for plaster

When installing beacons, several points must be observed:

At a distance of 300–400 mm from the corners, marks are made on the wall and lines are drawn perpendicular to the floor;
Other lines are also drawn between them, with equal spaces between them. The optimal lengths are 1.5 meters (in any case, slightly less than the length of the rule);
Pieces of plaster or a specialized mixture for attaching beacons are placed on the drawn lines;
The beacons themselves are attached to pieces of plaster - segments metal profile;
Plaster is placed between the beacons with a layer of no more than 50 mm (in the case of good wood concrete block, which does not need to be leveled, is 20 mm);
The rule is to level the mixture on the wall: add the missing amount or remove the excess.

Beacons for plaster

After the mixture has completely dried, the beacons are dismantled (which is why they are not permanently fixed), and in the place of the torn out beacons they are repeated plastering work. They can be left if the plaster is just a rough finish for installing a curtain wall.

The use of beacons (a kind of “rulers” made of a metal profile on the wall) is a measure for those cases where the surface does not have ideal geometry: this usually applies to old houses. Then they serve as an additional (besides the level) reference point. The problem is this: after the plaster has completely dried, the beacons will need to be removed and the remaining “grooves” will need to be plastered.

If you are finishing a newly built wood concrete house, there is no need for beacons - you have good block ideal geometry, and deviations in the surface do not exceed 3 mm. The rule can handle this indicator quite well.

What are the advantages of plastering walls made of wood concrete?

When applying external plaster, you can significantly improve, since such a coating performs the following functions:

Heat-protective. The house remains warm without the “steam room” effect. Thanks to good vapor permeability, external plaster allows the wood concrete to “breathe”;
Soundproof. If the plaster is not painted, it will reliably protect you from unwanted noise;
Waterproofing. Plastered wood concrete repels water, so rooms with high humidity(but not more than 70%) do not require additional finishing. To enhance water-repellent properties when applying plaster, it is recommended to use a shotcrete machine;

Also, external plaster for wood concrete is required if the walls of the building are exposed to aggressive acid fumes.

In addition, the plastered facade of the building needs to be updated no more than once every 8-9 years. To do this, it is enough to “walk” the walls with a primer, spending a minimum of money on it.

Plastering wood concrete blocks is considered the simplest and most reliable way to finish them for the purpose of decoration and protection from moisture. The optimal characteristics for application are moisture-resistant but breathable mixtures distributed in a thin layer within 20 mm. It is recommended to treat walls on both sides; the difference appears only in the solutions used and the technology for their installation. The achieved result largely depends on the quality of the products and the evenness of the masonry; in order to avoid mistakes, it is worth studying all the requirements in advance.

Selection of compositions for plastering

The need for mandatory protection is easily explained; with all its advantages, this composite building material has high degree water absorption (40-85%) and is not intended for use in open form. At the same time, covering it with an impermeable lining is impractical due to a decrease in the ability for air exchange and the inability to remove accidentally accumulated condensate from them. This rule applies both when treating walls outside and when working indoors. The application of moisture-resistant, but porous and breathable mixtures solves this problem completely; the resulting coating combines protective, leveling and decorative functions.

Cement-sand mortar, applied in a layer of up to 2 cm. This type is selected mainly for rough finishing, including when planning to close the outside with a system of ventilation facades. It is valued for its low cost, resistance to moisture and most external influences, but is inferior to other types in permeability; the maximum effect is achieved when protecting rooms with high humidity, unheated and outbuildings: garages, workshops, baths.
Lime plaster, characterized by increased vapor permeability and plasticity and mainly used for rough finishing of wood concrete walls indoors. IN facade works it is used in combination with moisture-repellent paints.
Gypsum mixtures ideal for interior cladding.
Decorative compositions based on acrylic or silicone resins, liquid glass or complex binder. These species have different characteristics, To general properties include good hiding power, wear resistance and the ability to change color by adding pigments. Silicate or silicone grades have best performance UV-resistant, permeable and water-repellent, they are practically not susceptible to contamination and do not need updating for a long time.

The plaster layer is used as a roughing layer, leveling layer, heat-, sound- or waterproofing and acid-resistant, in some cases their functions are combined. Each of the listed varieties has its own pros and cons; it is impossible to call any of them universal in relation to wood concrete. Stamps on cement based with minor additions of gypsum or lime, which have a positive effect on vapor permeability, or water-retaining impurities.

To avoid mistakes, it is recommended to use specialized dry mixtures when self-cooking It is important to monitor the degree of permeability of the injected components. Special attention require thermal insulation types, foam glass, crushed slag or foam plastic crumbs cannot be introduced when mixing them; the optimal combination is achieved by combining a cement or complex binder with crushed expanded clay, perlite, vermiculite or a similar breathable filler. There is no need to introduce antiseptic or anti-corrosion additives; wood concrete has biostability group V and does not require additional protection from any external influences other than moisture.

The features taken into account include ensuring high quality adhesion; the applied layer does not require mesh reinforcement or pre-treatment with soil. This is explained by the same permeability and elongated shape of the chips; the solution penetrates into upper layer and is securely held between the individual fibers. But this property has negative side – high consumption materials and the risk of cracking due to the rapid absorption of moisture from the plaster.

On average, it takes 34 kg of DSP to cover 1 m2, 30 - lime mixture, 9 – gypsum-based finishing and 8 – decorative types.

When performing rough finishing of wood concrete blocks, the thickness of the applied layer is maintained within 20 mm, finishing – 7-10. Expensive silicone, acrylic and silicate varieties are distributed over the plane using a brush, trowel or wide spatula. The thickness of their layer after drying does not exceed 1-3 mm, but for obvious reasons they are not applied directly to the surface and require a rough base. It is recommended to treat the walls outside the house with brands with high UV resistance; acrylic ones are inferior to silicate ones in this regard.

Nuances of performing work

The sequence of actions depends on the novelty of the structures: plastering of recently erected systems begins immediately (priming is required only if the quality of wood concrete is in doubt), previously used ones - after removal of old building materials and thorough cleaning of weak particles. Masonry made from factory blocks or slabs, as well as a wall filled with monolithic technology, does not require hardening of auxiliary beacons; they can be processed without prior preparation. An exception is made only when construction is carried out in hot weather - the surface is carefully wetted.